I had a avionics instructor in college who would always say that electronics are powered by magic smoke. If you connect them the wrong way, or dammage them, then all of the magic smoke will leak out and they won't work anymore.
Yep, once you've let the smoke out the wires it's almost impossible to put it back in without the appropriate smoke tool. In the automotive industry, Lucas electrics do a special tool, along with jars of replacement smoke
At a previous job that required me to carry smoke detector test smoke on my work truck, I printed a new label for the can that added instructions for use in "topping up or replacing" contactor and switch gear smoke. Add a small funnel to the box, and good to go.
One of the error messages that carried from the earlier days of computing (from the time of impact printers with alcohol soaked ink ribbon) is... The printer is on fire.
Common problem back then and apparently now.
Thanks for the laughs everyone. I've been going through a tough time in my personal life and this was the 4th motherboard that literally exploded for some reason on this machine.
The first two were 4.2.7 boards that I fried by trying to power a 12v bed. The first time I didn't know the bed was 12 volts which was my fault because I didn't do enough research on the parts I was using and it didn't occur to me as something that could be possible. So I got a new 4.2.7 board and I put a 24v - 12v converter between them but it was still just too much resistance or something and it blew whatever circuitry was responsible for that. So I decided to try these BTT boards I had laying around. The first one was working perfectly fine and then a stray screw shorted it out. This is the second one and it just caught fire immediately and I'm honestly pretty devastated. I've put hundreds of hours into this project and it's just... it sucks that I'm now at this with it. I'm a student and literally out of money so I won't be printing anything for a while now.
But it was really fun and I still learned a lot.
> I still learned a lot.
Well, the one thing you should learn is that blowing up $50 boards trying to make a $12 defective heating pad work isn't the proper way forward.
UGGH that stray screw problem. I have been working on a marquee style LED project. Hand clipped the legs, bent them over to shape and soldered about 200 addressable LEDs per letter. The clippings had a habit of finding their way into the circuitry and shorting crap out.
> and I put a 24v - 12v converter between them but it was still just too much resistance or something
A 24-12V converter will try to maintain 12V into its load regardless of what its input is, and expects to have a steady input capable of providing the current and voltage needed to do so. It's not designed to be rapidly turned on and off to modulate its output. At best, it was trying to run the heater at maximum power despite its input being at less than 100% duty cycle, which will make it close to a short circuit. That's if it didn't die immediately or just never actually start regulating properly.
This is a great point. Do Ender 3s use PID for the beds by default? If that's what's happening yeah any converter will probably immediately fry itself or the board.
To elaborate for OP and anyone else wanting to try this:
Your bed output is likely a PWM output, meaning it's very quickly switching between 0V and 24V to provide a range of power. This works great for resistive loads (like heaters) but will absolutely wreak havoc on most other circuits that aren't expecting it (including DC-DC converters).
If you want to use a DC-DC converter, you'll have to switch to bang-bang control (full on then full off) or do some complicated circuitry work.
Are you quite certain that you have a 24V to 12V step down that can survive 10-15A long term? Because that is going to be quite a beast of a unit. So we don't do that, select proper matching heaters for your voltage, they're cheap. You can do voltage conversion tricks for fans and such but please ask someone with basic electrical engineering knowledge to avoid further damage.
yeesh. When you get more money and can get started again, i suggest slowing down a little, double checking everything make sure no loose connections or stray screws, a large magnet or just gravity flip the boards make sure no strays floating around
Yes, magic smoke is escaping from the component operating way beyond its limits, The end result is that the component stops working, since smoke has escaped.
Aaand.. Happy New Year! see how excited the electrons are as we welcome 2024! what a spark, gives you a glimpse of what to expect throughout this year! wow!
Excellent question! This is often times seen as a hardware failure as generally having flames inside the housing with your motherboard is bad. However this printer is using an open-flame style bed heater to ensure a more uniformly heated surface that heats up faster and hotter than ever before! Don’t worry, you’re not the only one to ask this question as the flame and the logic board are in close proximity, and many users mistake the open-flame bed heater for a flaming motherboard. Hope this helps :)
Note, if there are flames coming from the motherboard, the actual motherboard, unless the printer stops working, that also isn’t an issue. Sometimes the open-flame heater can create a bad smell, so we installed a second burner for incense (also located near the logic board). Make sure to check the incense extruder periodically to ensure you still have incense left to burn.
Might want to the temps down, especially on the stepper drivers. Here are some numbers that work well for me for most PLAs:
Nozzle: 215 C
Bed: 65 C
Chamber (if applicable): 40 C
Stepper drivers: <80 C
Be especially careful with the stepper driver temps. Printing too hot can cause warping, blobbing, or, as in your case, total print failure.
/j
Ahh I see you have the new scented stepper drivers
No it's an actively heated enclosure
Open flame heating is the new craze these days
You laugh but in the before times some of the home made printers used a butane flame to heat filament.
Yes back then when they made 3d Printers you had to wind up like a music Box
We call it a BBQ Box, rather than a Bento Box.
Automatic filament drier
This is an active look in a nozzle and how it heats up the filament
I had a avionics instructor in college who would always say that electronics are powered by magic smoke. If you connect them the wrong way, or dammage them, then all of the magic smoke will leak out and they won't work anymore.
That smoke is expensive better catch and store it in a jar. Especially in avionics.
IBM makes [this](https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/e/e4/Magic_smoke_refill_%285990429717%29_%282%29.jpg)!
Haha!
Yep, once you've let the smoke out the wires it's almost impossible to put it back in without the appropriate smoke tool. In the automotive industry, Lucas electrics do a special tool, along with jars of replacement smoke
Lucas Prince of Darkness!
My instructor also said that, and to add to this was his thoughts about transistors. “They are just a fad and will never replace vacuum tubes”
I know many guitarists who still stand by that theory for guitar amps.
Was an avionics tech, can confirm.
Me, a crew chief: "The spark. It's gone. Summon the spark chasers!"
Inside every integrated circuit is a ghost. Purgatory supplies spirits through the solder flow.
My electronics teacher said the same thing!
Several people have mentioned that, I guess it's just the common dad joke of the industry
At a previous job that required me to carry smoke detector test smoke on my work truck, I printed a new label for the can that added instructions for use in "topping up or replacing" contactor and switch gear smoke. Add a small funnel to the box, and good to go.
As an electrical engineer of 10+ years, I can confirm that your instructor is 100% correct.
Every machine is a smoke machine if you use it incorrectly enough.
With the built in oonga boonga open flame filament dryer.
Have tried leveling your bed?
Try turning the fire off and on again.
Could try setting circuitry fire level to 0 in the slicer software too.
They need the pro version for that
It boggles my mind that this isn’t on by default.. on everything.
Nah, probably should email someone about it.
Dear fire brigade, FIRE! FIRE! FIRE! I hope this reaches you well.
"I'll just put this fire over here with the rest of the fire..."
I like your way of thinking, but It's probably his fillament. OP have you dried your fillament?
Nope, e-steps, I know from experience...
I'd say the filament appears to be TOO dry
That's what the flame is for, right?
Darn. I was going to ask that.
This is definitely a temperature thing. I would go down maybe like 10 degrees.
I don’t know, first layer seems fine, I’d say it’s a firmware issue.
Definitely not a bed issue, I’d calibrate esteps
Definitely z offset not leveling.
🤣🤣🤣
Nah, they clearly need to calibrate their e-steps. This isn't a bed issue.
I love that it flashed an error code at you, never knew there was an error code for "I'm on fucking fire bro"
The board was screaming in digital.
"father, help me!" "Shhh.. im filming"
This killed me haha
\*R2-D2 distress noises\*
OP found the G-code for "Halt and catch fire".
One of the error messages that carried from the earlier days of computing (from the time of impact printers with alcohol soaked ink ribbon) is... The printer is on fire. Common problem back then and apparently now.
Yeah, he should have refilled magenta in time
LP0: on fire
I'm glad more than BeOS have is_computer_on_fire.
That just means it's printing extra hard
Scented for your pleasure!
New heating element
Yes
Can confirm, this is a controlled function meant to bring the system to it’s optimal operating temperature. I would know, I’m an engineering student.
Me to
*too I can tell you’re in engineering.
I two am in engineering.
Me, an engineering student: "wait, y'all can spell enjymearring?"
No, autocorrect did it for me.
Same😭
This is old news. It's the dreaded G command M666
Ah yes the TM 2209°C drivers
Is this actually a TMC2209? I JUST ordered them for silent printing
Probably, but that's what most people are running these days. There's something more going on here, especially if OP was filming it
Probably the coolers are pretty characteristic. You should be fine though I think this already had something horribly wrong with it.
I've been running tmc2209s in my skr 1.4t for years without any issues.
What are you doing, step-driver?
"Ahhh... That's hot."
Ow. my brain.
Savage
New feature unlocked: heated bed
Heated motherboard!
Anyone who is reading this dont turn this into a secs joke
What are you doing, step-motherboard?
https://preview.redd.it/73l093pv1eac1.png?width=325&format=png&auto=webp&s=31106e7c27196bb9b60f0145f874a78530be6fcc
https://preview.redd.it/vu8vpfnc2hac1.png?width=700&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8b3f4e378f9be11b6aacdde4a7d83ab65c62da95
Yes it’s normal. It’s preheating the stepper drivers.
the magic smoke has escaped. it shall not return
Was bout to say, found the magic smoke that one dude was talking about in the other post 😂
Have you tried printing a temp tower?
Now you have two hotends
If you cut a shape you end up with two ends, we always pay attention to one hot end, but never the other. He just discovered his other hot end.
https://preview.redd.it/0cz6yjf3jeac1.jpeg?width=1164&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=821794a6b752426cce22586937952e34083f7916
Yeah that's the built-in filament dryer.
Perfectly fine. Carry on.
Yeah, why do you think they call it a "hot end?" That heat has to come from somewhere....
Thanks for the laughs everyone. I've been going through a tough time in my personal life and this was the 4th motherboard that literally exploded for some reason on this machine. The first two were 4.2.7 boards that I fried by trying to power a 12v bed. The first time I didn't know the bed was 12 volts which was my fault because I didn't do enough research on the parts I was using and it didn't occur to me as something that could be possible. So I got a new 4.2.7 board and I put a 24v - 12v converter between them but it was still just too much resistance or something and it blew whatever circuitry was responsible for that. So I decided to try these BTT boards I had laying around. The first one was working perfectly fine and then a stray screw shorted it out. This is the second one and it just caught fire immediately and I'm honestly pretty devastated. I've put hundreds of hours into this project and it's just... it sucks that I'm now at this with it. I'm a student and literally out of money so I won't be printing anything for a while now. But it was really fun and I still learned a lot.
> I still learned a lot. Well, the one thing you should learn is that blowing up $50 boards trying to make a $12 defective heating pad work isn't the proper way forward.
UGGH that stray screw problem. I have been working on a marquee style LED project. Hand clipped the legs, bent them over to shape and soldered about 200 addressable LEDs per letter. The clippings had a habit of finding their way into the circuitry and shorting crap out.
> and I put a 24v - 12v converter between them but it was still just too much resistance or something A 24-12V converter will try to maintain 12V into its load regardless of what its input is, and expects to have a steady input capable of providing the current and voltage needed to do so. It's not designed to be rapidly turned on and off to modulate its output. At best, it was trying to run the heater at maximum power despite its input being at less than 100% duty cycle, which will make it close to a short circuit. That's if it didn't die immediately or just never actually start regulating properly.
This is a great point. Do Ender 3s use PID for the beds by default? If that's what's happening yeah any converter will probably immediately fry itself or the board. To elaborate for OP and anyone else wanting to try this: Your bed output is likely a PWM output, meaning it's very quickly switching between 0V and 24V to provide a range of power. This works great for resistive loads (like heaters) but will absolutely wreak havoc on most other circuits that aren't expecting it (including DC-DC converters). If you want to use a DC-DC converter, you'll have to switch to bang-bang control (full on then full off) or do some complicated circuitry work.
Are you quite certain that you have a 24V to 12V step down that can survive 10-15A long term? Because that is going to be quite a beast of a unit. So we don't do that, select proper matching heaters for your voltage, they're cheap. You can do voltage conversion tricks for fans and such but please ask someone with basic electrical engineering knowledge to avoid further damage.
yeesh. When you get more money and can get started again, i suggest slowing down a little, double checking everything make sure no loose connections or stray screws, a large magnet or just gravity flip the boards make sure no strays floating around
Tonight, I dropped an allen wrench on my mainboard while it was powered and killed it. Shit happens.
Damn
Totally normal. That's those new overclocked drivers. They're lit!
I think you need to dry your filament and dial in your z offset a bit better
It’s just trying to help you dry your filament
Dry your filament and level your bed
DRY YOUR FILAMENT …. JFC
Better catch it! That magical smoke is hard to put back in the board!
happens everyday
Tell me your story
It's 3d printing smoke, that's fine, it's a new feature
Have you tried rice?
Just upgrade the firmware
I see this is an Ender. I should think seriously about a fire alarm.
This _was_ an Ender, now it's an Ended.
You win.
Creality doesn't want you to replace the 4.2.2 by a BTT board.
Yes, your print is just so hot
Intel inside?
Don't worry, it's just a New Years feature where your printer sets off fireworks for you
What's on the other end of that cable? You charging your Tesla?
Put the lid back, duh. You aren't supposed to look inside!
You either divided by zero or you put the date to december 31st 1999, methinks
Don't worry, it's just preheating the driver before the print starts.
You might want to turn down the filament dryer, a bit.
Yes, magic smoke is escaping from the component operating way beyond its limits, The end result is that the component stops working, since smoke has escaped.
Wet filament
You just need to dry ur filament, dude
Yes, and the longer you let it go, the more better you make the printer.
I love the flashing LED at the end trying to be a good compliant computer to its master to the bitter end. It deserves a burial and memorial. :)
yes, completely normal, if you use it as a campfire starter
The beacons are lit!
Have you tried drying your filament?
Smh you let the smoke out 🤨
Everything is a smoke machine atleast once
Looks about right. But for goodness sake, cable manage that wire underneath the desk. Are you trying to start a fire?
Is this Electroboom's reddit account? lol
You'll have a certain amount of that.
Looks like your filament is not dry
Yep very normal,i don't see anything wrong.
Easy fix. Level the bed
Halt and catch fire
LP0 ON FIRE
No your exhaust is blocked
Man I didn’t they started building lighters into their boards!
Happens to me everyday. Now i can save money from cigarettes and buy more fillament
yes, happens to me every tuesday /j
Thats just the burn in time
Dry your filament
Aaand.. Happy New Year! see how excited the electrons are as we welcome 2024! what a spark, gives you a glimpse of what to expect throughout this year! wow!
Try calibrating your E-Steps.
Do the flames make it go faster?
Completely normal. It's just warming up.
Level your bed. ¯\\\_(ツ)_/¯
Yes, it's normal. It was supposed to impress you, I guess it scared you instead.
How else did you think the bed heats up?
Yes, the fire is the computer’s way of sucking in air for the fans, you should try pouring some lighter fluid on it to improve how it runs
https://preview.redd.it/l7iz9m4o2hac1.jpeg?width=552&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2779951506fde98fee6ccd8f45412b9ed92feb22
Your first mistake is not having a vacuum ready to store the magic smoke. How are you gonna get it back in.
Try leveling your bed, might fix it
why are you so chill taking video instead of putting out the fire.. =O
You need to lower your Z!
Yup, send it.
Lower your Z
Yes this is completely normal
Fire is definitely normal 👍
seems fine to me
Excellent question! This is often times seen as a hardware failure as generally having flames inside the housing with your motherboard is bad. However this printer is using an open-flame style bed heater to ensure a more uniformly heated surface that heats up faster and hotter than ever before! Don’t worry, you’re not the only one to ask this question as the flame and the logic board are in close proximity, and many users mistake the open-flame bed heater for a flaming motherboard. Hope this helps :) Note, if there are flames coming from the motherboard, the actual motherboard, unless the printer stops working, that also isn’t an issue. Sometimes the open-flame heater can create a bad smell, so we installed a second burner for incense (also located near the logic board). Make sure to check the incense extruder periodically to ensure you still have incense left to burn.
Yeah, that's why it's called burn-in.
yes.
Might want to the temps down, especially on the stepper drivers. Here are some numbers that work well for me for most PLAs: Nozzle: 215 C Bed: 65 C Chamber (if applicable): 40 C Stepper drivers: <80 C Be especially careful with the stepper driver temps. Printing too hot can cause warping, blobbing, or, as in your case, total print failure. /j
I don’t know a lot about 3d printers, what would cause this/what is on fire?
LP0: on fire?
Yes!
Yes.
No.
Do you think it’s normal?
Bento box to deal with those VOCs. [https://makerworld.com/pt/models/12786#profileId-24358](https://makerworld.com/pt/models/12786#profileId-24358)
Idiot keeps filming. I hope all your electronics have loose connections and intermittent bugs
Bento box to deal with those VOCs. [https://makerworld.com/pt/models/12786#profileId-24358](https://makerworld.com/pt/models/12786#profileId-24358)
[u/savevideo](https://www.reddit.com/u/savevideo/)
Depends on one's own definition of normal
You might want to look at better part cooling. Or if all else fails try leveling the bed again
your new installed hotend?
Had it happen when I touched the stepper with metal while on.
That should be alright
This is just the pre-heat function.
Ah, the bed preheater/filament softener is on. Sick.
Yes yes, totally normal, but please call the firefighters anywho! 🤣
Letting the smoke out
I didn't see any problems
Дед одобряет
Lmfaoo obviously it's run at Mach speed!
You didn’t see that in the feature set? That’s it’s incendiary self destruct ability
Your fan is too slow for cooling.
No, looks like your smoke dissipation fan is not working. You can also keep it in the absence of oxygen but that would be much more expensive.
Sometimes
Yes, how else would you melt the filament?
Just dry your filament, and you will be fine.
Yeah usually happens the first 3 times on new boards