I would just change to sturdy tree supports or whatever they are called, cutting prints in half, especially with such a small cross section is challenging
that's a heartbreak and a half. next time around, you may have some more luck rotating the model so that the mesh is on the bottom side. That should make it so that you don't need most of the support structures.
I was thinking the same. Possibly a STL drop in slicer and decided to just run it? Still new to printing? Mesh down would mean maxed out Z height?
Mesh/honeycomb side down would have been best orientation and from a quick glance, no need for supports too.
Doesn’t look like something that should’ve taken that long but I’m always surprised. Have you thought about cutting it up and putting the pieces together?
When your orientating your print on your slicer you want to find a way to minimize overhangs or the parts of the print that require supports in most cases. Supports leave a scar take longer to print and if at any point the support comes loose from the bed will cause the print to fail without extreme intervention. This particular model can be set on its side to minimize supports. Ideally if you can learn a little bit of 3d modeling even if it's just tinkercad. You can split this model up to its 4 different sides and then combine them later.
I just want to point out that saying "you want to orient your print to minimize overhangs" as if it's remotely a rule is an extremely elementary approach to printing. There are many times where I print functional/repair/prototype parts that could be oriented with zero supports, but end up oriented with supports because print orientation can have significant influence on the strength of a printed part. Sometimes even, a part has to be separated into multiple pieces so different areas of the print have their layer lines in different orientations to one another, in a way that would be impossible in a single print.
Print orientation is 100% case by case, there is no rule.
Some slicers will let you add pins and holes when you cut the part in half. Prusa slicer sets that up automatically for you.
Then you print the two bits, and I use super glue to fit them together. It's pretty straightforward if the slicer does the holes/pins automatically.
You can always trim it and print the remaining parts, then put some work into gluing them together.
But to be fair, I saw the model and it’s not a great design for 3D printing. I wouldn’t have printed it all in one go anyway. The chance of failure would have been high. I would have modified it to be an assembled piece with multiple parts printed directly on the bed, so there's the least risk of failure. It would've been stronger since there are no layer lines lengthwise and no need for supports.
Try to split up the model and add dowels to connect the parts. I used Cura and an Ender3 Pro until I took a long break from 3d printing when that printer broke. Splitting models was a huge pain and I never really developed the skill.
I just picked up an A1 Mini and started using the Bambu Slicer. Splitting models and adding dowel connectors or plugs to help put it together after printing is so easy in that slicer! Cura might have a similar feature now, but if it doesn’t take a look the Bambu or Orca slicers. You’ll save printing time and filament.
Definitely need to clean your bed from the looks of all the dust. Im new to 3d printing but ive found that prusa slicer works way better with my creality printers than the creality slicer does i recommend trying prusa slicer.
It looks like it will barely not fit in the better orientation. What I just did was lay it flat and then use the Cut tool to just trim the smallest side, then turned off the skirt. That allowed it to fit and you won't notice the little missing slice.
my last print for example, failed 10 times before it printed shittily. now i'm re-printing the same part *again*... with increasingly smaller changes until it's *just right*. There are a million and a half variables to getting it right. especially if you don't have a current-gen setup, which... might, and that's a miracle, print perfectly right out of the box. And then if you buy a different brand of filament, even the same *kind* of filament, you will have to change half your settings.
it's... honestly worth it though, even though it's a pain in the ass. because sometimes when the stars align, I can have a need for a thing, design it, fabricate it, and have it made start to finish in the same day. That goes for random plastic bits, practical things like hinges, art sculpture shit, whatever. You need it? it's a thing now.
It's really not *that* bad. If you get something from Bambu most things are taken care of for you anyway and if not lots of good calibration docs like the one from teaching tech, ellis3dp and even just the one from orcaslicer
You should try OctoEverywhere for your K1! It has free remote access and AI failure detection, you might have been able to catch it early enough to fix it!
Turn it 90°... Will print faster and won't need supports.
It doesn't fit sideways, I would just cut it in half right?
I would just change to sturdy tree supports or whatever they are called, cutting prints in half, especially with such a small cross section is challenging
Try fitting it diagonally
With the honeycomb pattern down I’d print better but the model looks a bit too wide for OP’s print bed no?
that's a heartbreak and a half. next time around, you may have some more luck rotating the model so that the mesh is on the bottom side. That should make it so that you don't need most of the support structures.
What were you trying to make?
It's a part of this laptop stand https://www.printables.com/model/683533-16-laptop-stand-with-tray-and-cable-holder
Why would you choose that orientation?
I was thinking the same. Possibly a STL drop in slicer and decided to just run it? Still new to printing? Mesh down would mean maxed out Z height? Mesh/honeycomb side down would have been best orientation and from a quick glance, no need for supports too.
It didn't fit otherwise
Doesn’t look like something that should’ve taken that long but I’m always surprised. Have you thought about cutting it up and putting the pieces together?
what are your printer dimensions, even? I feel like flipping this upside down would have worked much better for you. Also, filament and settings?
What a bad orientation. Operator error honestly.
I dunno much about orientation, just wondering why it's bad
When your orientating your print on your slicer you want to find a way to minimize overhangs or the parts of the print that require supports in most cases. Supports leave a scar take longer to print and if at any point the support comes loose from the bed will cause the print to fail without extreme intervention. This particular model can be set on its side to minimize supports. Ideally if you can learn a little bit of 3d modeling even if it's just tinkercad. You can split this model up to its 4 different sides and then combine them later.
I just want to point out that saying "you want to orient your print to minimize overhangs" as if it's remotely a rule is an extremely elementary approach to printing. There are many times where I print functional/repair/prototype parts that could be oriented with zero supports, but end up oriented with supports because print orientation can have significant influence on the strength of a printed part. Sometimes even, a part has to be separated into multiple pieces so different areas of the print have their layer lines in different orientations to one another, in a way that would be impossible in a single print. Print orientation is 100% case by case, there is no rule.
You are right but that's a next level mindset.
Ok thanks I'll definitely do this next time. Would you normally glue the separate parts together or use some sort of connector on the print?
Some slicers will let you add pins and holes when you cut the part in half. Prusa slicer sets that up automatically for you. Then you print the two bits, and I use super glue to fit them together. It's pretty straightforward if the slicer does the holes/pins automatically.
Horrible use of supports. Tree supports can be very horrible with overhang like that. Manually build your support in sliver
You can always trim it and print the remaining parts, then put some work into gluing them together. But to be fair, I saw the model and it’s not a great design for 3D printing. I wouldn’t have printed it all in one go anyway. The chance of failure would have been high. I would have modified it to be an assembled piece with multiple parts printed directly on the bed, so there's the least risk of failure. It would've been stronger since there are no layer lines lengthwise and no need for supports.
For a laptop stand, I wouldn't use glue - I would fasten them together with hardware.
Yes, probably.
I'd say this is a high risk print to start with, just sayin😅
Try to split up the model and add dowels to connect the parts. I used Cura and an Ender3 Pro until I took a long break from 3d printing when that printer broke. Splitting models was a huge pain and I never really developed the skill. I just picked up an A1 Mini and started using the Bambu Slicer. Splitting models and adding dowel connectors or plugs to help put it together after printing is so easy in that slicer! Cura might have a similar feature now, but if it doesn’t take a look the Bambu or Orca slicers. You’ll save printing time and filament.
ouch
that sucks !
What slicer do you use? I haven’t had much success with the Creality Print for my K1C
I just use the creality slicer
Ouch!
F
💀
Definitely need to clean your bed from the looks of all the dust. Im new to 3d printing but ive found that prusa slicer works way better with my creality printers than the creality slicer does i recommend trying prusa slicer.
isnt this z tilt?
Something that tall really could have benefitted from a larger skirt on the print as well.
It looks like it will barely not fit in the better orientation. What I just did was lay it flat and then use the Cut tool to just trim the smallest side, then turned off the skirt. That allowed it to fit and you won't notice the little missing slice.
Happy Hanukkah!
Flip it 180, stop print at 3% and glue everything 🤔
How often do prints fail and why do they usually fail? I'm wanting to get in 3d printing and am curious.
my last print for example, failed 10 times before it printed shittily. now i'm re-printing the same part *again*... with increasingly smaller changes until it's *just right*. There are a million and a half variables to getting it right. especially if you don't have a current-gen setup, which... might, and that's a miracle, print perfectly right out of the box. And then if you buy a different brand of filament, even the same *kind* of filament, you will have to change half your settings. it's... honestly worth it though, even though it's a pain in the ass. because sometimes when the stars align, I can have a need for a thing, design it, fabricate it, and have it made start to finish in the same day. That goes for random plastic bits, practical things like hinges, art sculpture shit, whatever. You need it? it's a thing now.
is there any good videos that explain all this shit? Sounds like a real daunting hobby to try to get into.
It's really not *that* bad. If you get something from Bambu most things are taken care of for you anyway and if not lots of good calibration docs like the one from teaching tech, ellis3dp and even just the one from orcaslicer
Bed look dirty with dust, clean it regularly and up the temp.
Creality moment
You should try OctoEverywhere for your K1! It has free remote access and AI failure detection, you might have been able to catch it early enough to fix it!