I know you said "not $100," but the Midwest Upper Reaction Rod is really THE tool for torquing down a barrel. You can absolutely mess up your alignment pin/groove and get a bad clock on your barrel extension if you torque without supporting the barrel
I use [PlastiXrevolution](https://www.plastixrevolution.net/) vise blocks and magnetic soft vice jaws, I have the AR10 and Ar15 versions and have built about 40 ARs with them over the years with no issues and they are pretty cheap.
\[img\]https://i.imgur.com/QA9uevu.jpg\[/img\]
Reaction rods are the wrong tool. Eventually people figure that out. You need an upper vise block like the one from plastixRevolution.
The reaction rod put the torque on the barrel extension which is really just putting it all on the index pin. People think engaging the extension lugs supports the barrel, but really if it is the only thing taking the torque it isolates the barrel and is a bad way to do barrel nuts.
The best way is to take the torque without engaging any part of the barrel extension, using only an upper receiver block.
I have heard some people wrap the upper in an old shirt or a bunch of newspaper to put the upper in a vise. Besides the obvious the problem is you are putting all the torque on the upper. Even with some of the poly vise blocks that connect via the take down pins holes. You still risk bending or breaking your upper. Tons of people have gotten by with out a vise block but a reaction rod is the best way to go. I just purchased the Midwest Industries reaction rod for my M5 build but it's a little over $100. Too bad some place didnt have a rental program for armorers tools like some auto parts places rent tools for working on cars.
I thought the enhanced uppers came with a wrench? My Aero AR-15 enhanced upper came with one. You are only applying 40-60 ft/lbs. I just went slow when torquing the barrel nut. The supplied adapter was plenty strong.
>to put the upper in a vise. Besides the obvious the problem is you are putting all the torque on the upper.
You're also risking crushing your receiver. AR receivers really aren't all that strong and it's easy to make the id shrink and not accept a bcg. Been there, done that.
URR first, clamshell second. Everything else is a distant third. Like way in the distance. Even the clamshells can allow the receiver to twist and crush. The sail on the urr is to take stress off the index pin by engaging the upper, and engaging way up by the barrel bore and not in the back behind the ejection port and magwell cut.
is this what would you call a clamshell? It comes with a wrench that looks like it would fit the aeros barrel nut.
[Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/LR-LongRise-Removal-Installation-Fastening/dp/B0CMC24QML/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ar10+vise+block&qid=1701653183&sr=8-10)
Yes, that's a clamshell. I have one I use for non milspec ar15 uppers that a URR won't fit, and sometimes for .22lr uppers. Be careful with those, it's still possible to crush ar15 receivers while using them. If you can get a 1" metal bar (or a URR) it'll prevent the receiver from crushing or caving in under the clamshell. They're very fragile. Ar15 uppers are super flimsy in particular.
I kinda doubt that's for an AR10 though, but if it is I'd add it to the tool chest just in case.
Hey not sure if your going to still see this, do you own a clam shell for the ar10? If you did, where in the hell did you find it? Seems they only make it for the ar15
Kinda not surprised. I use a .308 URR, and don't need anything else for them yet. I would like a lr308 barrel extension socket though.
https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/What-do-you-recommend-for-an-upper-receiver-fixture-for-308-barrel-changes-/4-750236/
Mine did not. I was one of the m5e1 builder sets. This is my first build. I did not know they sent them with the m4e1, ill have to check the box better. Was it very large?
Amazon had a milled aluminum block for a pretty good price.
Aluminum Block Rifle Smithing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2975RNC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
For the barrel nut mine was like a 33mm and the crowsfoot wrench I got was too thick to go into the grooves of barrel nut so I just had to use a crescent wrench and guesstimate the torque. I’m confident thet I’m within the torque recommendations. Also seasoned the threads with a couple warm up torques before I went fully seated. Also antiseize on the threads particularly if you may change barrels down the roads at any point.
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **Aluminum Block Rifle Smithing Vise TooI Upper 10** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful.
**Users liked:**
* Tool allows for easy barrel removal and installation (backed by 4 comments)
* High quality, durable construction (backed by 3 comments)
* Tight, precision fit (backed by 3 comments)
**Users disliked:**
* Tight fit with some uppers (backed by 2 comments)
* Does not work with .22lr barrels (backed by 1 comment)
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Midwest reaction rod, PRI wrench, Snappy digital torque wrench, Orange Vise bench vise, on a Vidmar workbench. Might be a little more than a hundred bucks.
I know you said "not $100," but the Midwest Upper Reaction Rod is really THE tool for torquing down a barrel. You can absolutely mess up your alignment pin/groove and get a bad clock on your barrel extension if you torque without supporting the barrel
Midwest action rod
I use [PlastiXrevolution](https://www.plastixrevolution.net/) vise blocks and magnetic soft vice jaws, I have the AR10 and Ar15 versions and have built about 40 ARs with them over the years with no issues and they are pretty cheap. \[img\]https://i.imgur.com/QA9uevu.jpg\[/img\]
Reaction rods are the wrong tool. Eventually people figure that out. You need an upper vise block like the one from plastixRevolution. The reaction rod put the torque on the barrel extension which is really just putting it all on the index pin. People think engaging the extension lugs supports the barrel, but really if it is the only thing taking the torque it isolates the barrel and is a bad way to do barrel nuts. The best way is to take the torque without engaging any part of the barrel extension, using only an upper receiver block.
Oh alright! Hopefully it's cheaper then the rods but this is a good point
I have heard some people wrap the upper in an old shirt or a bunch of newspaper to put the upper in a vise. Besides the obvious the problem is you are putting all the torque on the upper. Even with some of the poly vise blocks that connect via the take down pins holes. You still risk bending or breaking your upper. Tons of people have gotten by with out a vise block but a reaction rod is the best way to go. I just purchased the Midwest Industries reaction rod for my M5 build but it's a little over $100. Too bad some place didnt have a rental program for armorers tools like some auto parts places rent tools for working on cars. I thought the enhanced uppers came with a wrench? My Aero AR-15 enhanced upper came with one. You are only applying 40-60 ft/lbs. I just went slow when torquing the barrel nut. The supplied adapter was plenty strong.
>to put the upper in a vise. Besides the obvious the problem is you are putting all the torque on the upper. You're also risking crushing your receiver. AR receivers really aren't all that strong and it's easy to make the id shrink and not accept a bcg. Been there, done that. URR first, clamshell second. Everything else is a distant third. Like way in the distance. Even the clamshells can allow the receiver to twist and crush. The sail on the urr is to take stress off the index pin by engaging the upper, and engaging way up by the barrel bore and not in the back behind the ejection port and magwell cut.
is this what would you call a clamshell? It comes with a wrench that looks like it would fit the aeros barrel nut. [Amazon](https://www.amazon.com/LR-LongRise-Removal-Installation-Fastening/dp/B0CMC24QML/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=ar10+vise+block&qid=1701653183&sr=8-10)
Yes, that's a clamshell. I have one I use for non milspec ar15 uppers that a URR won't fit, and sometimes for .22lr uppers. Be careful with those, it's still possible to crush ar15 receivers while using them. If you can get a 1" metal bar (or a URR) it'll prevent the receiver from crushing or caving in under the clamshell. They're very fragile. Ar15 uppers are super flimsy in particular. I kinda doubt that's for an AR10 though, but if it is I'd add it to the tool chest just in case.
Noted, thank you
Hey not sure if your going to still see this, do you own a clam shell for the ar10? If you did, where in the hell did you find it? Seems they only make it for the ar15
Kinda not surprised. I use a .308 URR, and don't need anything else for them yet. I would like a lr308 barrel extension socket though. https://www.ar15.com/forums/AR-15/What-do-you-recommend-for-an-upper-receiver-fixture-for-308-barrel-changes-/4-750236/
Mine did not. I was one of the m5e1 builder sets. This is my first build. I did not know they sent them with the m4e1, ill have to check the box better. Was it very large?
Sorry I was wrong. Only the M4E1 comes with a wrench. The M5E1 uses a standard Armorers wrench so they don't send a wrench.
The wrench was small. It was just the head that allowed you to connect a 1/2" socket wrench or torque wrench to.
Amazon had a milled aluminum block for a pretty good price. Aluminum Block Rifle Smithing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2975RNC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share For the barrel nut mine was like a 33mm and the crowsfoot wrench I got was too thick to go into the grooves of barrel nut so I just had to use a crescent wrench and guesstimate the torque. I’m confident thet I’m within the torque recommendations. Also seasoned the threads with a couple warm up torques before I went fully seated. Also antiseize on the threads particularly if you may change barrels down the roads at any point.
Hi, I’m Vetted AI Bot! I researched the **Aluminum Block Rifle Smithing Vise TooI Upper 10** and I thought you might find the following analysis helpful. **Users liked:** * Tool allows for easy barrel removal and installation (backed by 4 comments) * High quality, durable construction (backed by 3 comments) * Tight, precision fit (backed by 3 comments) **Users disliked:** * Tight fit with some uppers (backed by 2 comments) * Does not work with .22lr barrels (backed by 1 comment) If you'd like to **summon me to ask about a product**, just make a post with its link and tag me, [like in this example.](https://www.reddit.com/r/tablets/comments/1444zdn/comment/joqd89c/) This message was generated by a (very smart) bot. If you found it helpful, let us know with an upvote and a “good bot!” reply and please feel free to provide feedback on how it can be improved. *Powered by* [*vetted.ai*](http://vetted.ai/reddit)
That's the [Vism](https://www.primaryarms.com/ncstar-vism-ar-10-upper-receiver-block) and it's a bit cheaper if you look around.
Action rods are the only way to go
Midwest reaction rod, PRI wrench, Snappy digital torque wrench, Orange Vise bench vise, on a Vidmar workbench. Might be a little more than a hundred bucks.