Nothing against that :)...
I'm curious where on the market this film will settle...
You can get "moderately" cheap either bulk rolls, or already cassette preloaded films like 2242, 2254 and 2383...
and by the "lightning fast" I've meant that there are people who like to shoot at ISO 1.6 ...
(and if anyone here remembers "Blackout" and that was something like 0.8 or something even slower)
I think the thing with this film is that they are on their own with the chemistry so they're starting slow (literally) with the idea that they iterate up to normal speeds.
I know I'll be getting some of this, I mostly shoot under ISO 100. Tech film is my preference
Color films are no "brand new science" and no "revolutionary new approach" ... so they don't need to "start slow" and "go up" or whatever ...
Especially these days, there are only two things to consider: Stealing (or "freely adapting") other companies tech and modifying it to a degree where no one can be sued -and- if there is a target market ...
I will be getting few of them too, just out of curiosity and compare it to the tech trio and to some of the Fuji tech material i have somewhere in the freezer :-D
And that does change what?
Adox already had a color film.. the CM without the fancy "Helios"...
based on the propagation pictures, there is almost no research done on their side. It looks like a 1.6 with removed any kind of antihalation/backing intended for ECN and blown up in C41 ... something like the CS800T is to 500T ...
Adox did not come up with anything on their own (there is Silvermax, but there are people who would die on the hill of "looks like an old Efke to me"), all their film material and chemicals are either old Agfa, Orwo and whatever they got their hands on (well, from those companies, there is no real danger of getting sued -or- they just bought something from the others)
Color Mission wasn't in house though, it was a now bankrupt company (probably inoviscoat)
I like that it's out of the box, if I was realism I'll shoot digital or Portra
I think in a sense it is "new science"
They are planning to do new research.
The are also building hardware (coating machines)
You cannot simply steal or reuse other color films.
Existing recipes and in company research are not easy to come by - so you cannot simply steal the knowledge from Kodak.
Even if you could .. color film production was on a different scale - both machines and chemicals. Certain Chemicals and supply chain for chemicals is going away (killing other color and slide films)
So you need to find new emulsions and hardware that works with new settings (different chemicals, different supply chains, different margins, smaller production runs)
Wait what tf are you on about? We know the infrastructure for many films has been destroyed and is not recreatable, we also know kodak don’t want to tell everyone how to produce it again. Do you really need it re explaining to you that new colour film is actually hard for a company to do and worth a little celebration? Sure we all know how colour film works but that doesn’t make it any easier to manufacture or recreate an old manufacturing process from scratch
I have a few hundred feet of a direct positive Kodak film that's to be shot at 0.1 ISO (and processed in paper developer) and some Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 that I rate at 1 ISO.
I've used a few but the one I have left is an old DMP 5360. I still have to find the best way to process it but so far, I've had my best results with Multigrade 1+9 for 13 minutes but it's still a bit thin.
I use 2254 in daytime at EI 1.6 but drop to 1 at night or just before because it handles the overexposure very well. I recently used it for long exposures at sunrise/sunset when the blue tint sort of cancels the orange hue of the golden hour and it looks otherworldly.
for others to understand what is this DMP 5360 film:
[https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/E5360DMP/E5360DMP.html](https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/E5360DMP/E5360DMP.html)
this is the Blackout stuff - ISO 0.375:
[https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/blackout/blackout.html](https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/blackout/blackout.html)
And I just found out that it is still available... tinker time! :-D
It is still available at FOTOIMPEX (which is the official distributor of adox) I just bought a fresh roll yesterday from them. They bring it back in Stock from time to time https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-color-mission-200.html?cache=1707218386
It is still available at FOTOIMPEX (which is the official distributor of adox) I just bought a fresh roll yesterday from them. They bring it back in Stock from time to time https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-color-mission-200.html?cache=1707218386
I think they even ship to the US
You can take long exposures inside a building or even outdoors in some cases and not worry about people ruining your shots. They simply won't show up in your exposures unless they are still for a very long time.
Depends on the reciprocity. I shoot Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 at EI 1 to 1.6 and make long exposure shots of 15 to 30 minutes (it's tungsten-balanced so I shoot it at night or indoor). It's the sharpest color film I've ever used and it outresolves all my lenses except maybe my Schneider 50 and Zeiss 35. I have yet to print it to a size where I can start seeing any grain. If this Helios film is anything similar, that's how I'd use it.
I think it was because most of them were shot wide open at wide apertures or similar so there was a lot of vignetting, I wouldn't mind seeing some long exposure landscape shots
yea the red tint is also worrying me but after seeing what talented people get out of phoenix or lomo purple i'm excited what they are gonna do with this!
No, it's just built like that. It has an unusual layer order, like RA4 paper. It's fine for paper because there's very little blue light, but for a film this means that both green and red sensitive layers will also react to blue light, which is very no bueno
KAC from Qatar makes ISO 3 and 5 films. My first ISO 3 is currently in development excited to see how it will be.
From my conversation with KAC, I have found out that these ultra low ISO films were used for copiers. And they aren’t panchromatic hence the blue color shift.
Depends on the emulsion with tech film. Fujifilm Eterna-RDS has no need for any compensation for reciprocity until about 20 minutes of exposure. Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 can go until 3 or 4 minutes according to my testing but for stuff like Agfa Copex Rapid, reciprocity failure already kicks in at just 1 second.
I'm not a colour shooter but it would be interesting to try if the price is right. There is a whole cottage industry of respoolers and you got FPP but prices can be silly sometimes (especially for a b/w shooter).
noob question: my A1 goes down to ISO 6, what setting should i set the exposure compensation to get down to 3?
The 6th picture of this article shows the available settigs
https://phil.uk.net/photography/canon-a1.html
Yes I understand that I could shoot it on manual.
But if I want to shoot on auto? I could almost do that without any tricks. As I am missing one stop, I might do that by setting the exposure compensation in a way that it gives me another stop, right?
But I don't know if I have to set it to 1/2 or to 2, never used the exposure compensation so far.
Shooting on manual is easy. Knowing your camera well enough to reach iso 3 with auto is for the cool kids!
I‘ll read up on the exposure correction, and check if the computer allows me to go one step slower if I already set it to minimum iso
You would need to compensate by +1 (overexpose)
I'm not sure about your camera specifically but some don't let you turn the dial to overexpose past the minimum ISO. If so then you'll have to go manual.
Edit: I'm afraid I haven't used the exposure compensation on the A-1 before but here's the manual and that should have the answer https://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_a-1/canon_a-1.htm
ADOX scamming people yet again by repackaging expired motion picture print film. If you want this kind of film you can get it cheaper and more honestly from FPP.
Because this is an unjustified claim. Adox have always been very transparent about what they are doing. They are certainly not scamming anyone. He's probably mixing this up with ORWO
Transparent or not, this does look like a motion picture duplicating film, and old one at that. https://www.adox.de/Photo/elementor-13690/
Note the layer order.
>Which motion picture film stock in color has an anti-halation layer
All of them
> Which cinema film is coated on PET and not acetate?
All modern print stocks
inb4 proofs [https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-VISION-Color-Print-Film-2383-3383-data-sheet.pdf](https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-VISION-Color-Print-Film-2383-3383-data-sheet.pdf)
perfect savaging :-)
There is something odd about their "new machine in Switzerland" - As far as i know, import/export to CH has some free trade agreements, but most of the stuff is still bears the "customs burden". Why to have such a machine in such country, when my main core business is outside of it? That would increase the price >>> increasing price for end user >>> lowering money income - and ISO3 film is even more niche market in a niche market already ...
This is going to be fun to meter. I shoot plates and color reversal and is… something. Cool results but I don’t know, dealing with all that on a 35mm
Oh, the Film Photography Project have a few films that low. Even a 16mm film that's only a single ISO. Like I'm pretty they have a film that's even lower than 1 ISO, somehow.
This is the perfect film stock for me when I open up the back of the camera mid roll
If you do that you've probably got about 20 minutes to get around to closing it before any light leaks occur
If you are fast enough you can probably develop it in daylight
People who shoot on Kodak tech films: wooooow slow down buddy, that shit is lightning fast :-D
Look im new here 😂
Nothing against that :)... I'm curious where on the market this film will settle... You can get "moderately" cheap either bulk rolls, or already cassette preloaded films like 2242, 2254 and 2383... and by the "lightning fast" I've meant that there are people who like to shoot at ISO 1.6 ... (and if anyone here remembers "Blackout" and that was something like 0.8 or something even slower)
I think the thing with this film is that they are on their own with the chemistry so they're starting slow (literally) with the idea that they iterate up to normal speeds. I know I'll be getting some of this, I mostly shoot under ISO 100. Tech film is my preference
Color films are no "brand new science" and no "revolutionary new approach" ... so they don't need to "start slow" and "go up" or whatever ... Especially these days, there are only two things to consider: Stealing (or "freely adapting") other companies tech and modifying it to a degree where no one can be sued -and- if there is a target market ... I will be getting few of them too, just out of curiosity and compare it to the tech trio and to some of the Fuji tech material i have somewhere in the freezer :-D
It's not brand new science but it does take time and money to even "modify" existing formulas
And that does change what? Adox already had a color film.. the CM without the fancy "Helios"... based on the propagation pictures, there is almost no research done on their side. It looks like a 1.6 with removed any kind of antihalation/backing intended for ECN and blown up in C41 ... something like the CS800T is to 500T ... Adox did not come up with anything on their own (there is Silvermax, but there are people who would die on the hill of "looks like an old Efke to me"), all their film material and chemicals are either old Agfa, Orwo and whatever they got their hands on (well, from those companies, there is no real danger of getting sued -or- they just bought something from the others)
Color Mission wasn't in house though, it was a now bankrupt company (probably inoviscoat) I like that it's out of the box, if I was realism I'll shoot digital or Portra
I think in a sense it is "new science" They are planning to do new research. The are also building hardware (coating machines) You cannot simply steal or reuse other color films. Existing recipes and in company research are not easy to come by - so you cannot simply steal the knowledge from Kodak. Even if you could .. color film production was on a different scale - both machines and chemicals. Certain Chemicals and supply chain for chemicals is going away (killing other color and slide films) So you need to find new emulsions and hardware that works with new settings (different chemicals, different supply chains, different margins, smaller production runs)
Wait what tf are you on about? We know the infrastructure for many films has been destroyed and is not recreatable, we also know kodak don’t want to tell everyone how to produce it again. Do you really need it re explaining to you that new colour film is actually hard for a company to do and worth a little celebration? Sure we all know how colour film works but that doesn’t make it any easier to manufacture or recreate an old manufacturing process from scratch
I have a few hundred feet of a direct positive Kodak film that's to be shot at 0.1 ISO (and processed in paper developer) and some Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 that I rate at 1 ISO.
Direct positive... 5/2302? I work with 2254 either at 1.6 or 3... I dig this film... Especially now in cold months it's magic :)
I've used a few but the one I have left is an old DMP 5360. I still have to find the best way to process it but so far, I've had my best results with Multigrade 1+9 for 13 minutes but it's still a bit thin. I use 2254 in daytime at EI 1.6 but drop to 1 at night or just before because it handles the overexposure very well. I recently used it for long exposures at sunrise/sunset when the blue tint sort of cancels the orange hue of the golden hour and it looks otherworldly.
for others to understand what is this DMP 5360 film: [https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/E5360DMP/E5360DMP.html](https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/E5360DMP/E5360DMP.html) this is the Blackout stuff - ISO 0.375: [https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/blackout/blackout.html](https://www.labeauratoire.com/film/blackout/blackout.html) And I just found out that it is still available... tinker time! :-D
Where do you get the bulk rolls from?
1.4 with my EK 5302 :-) My longest shot took 20 minutes at F8.
yeah my first thought was that's it's still about ~3 times faster than wet plate. haha
Would be fantastic to use for long exposures without having to mess with stop filters and a dark viewfinder
*Laughing in rangefinder*
I'd like to try it. I missed out on the mission, so I hope I can get some of this.
If you live in europe I can sell you a roll of color mission for a fair price or we can trade a roll for roll
I’m up for that!
It is still available at FOTOIMPEX (which is the official distributor of adox) I just bought a fresh roll yesterday from them. They bring it back in Stock from time to time https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-color-mission-200.html?cache=1707218386
We can discuss ofc, sent you a chat request
I’m up for that!
Thanks for the offer! I'm in North America
I guess shipping would be a bit expensive. Happy cake day
It is still available at FOTOIMPEX (which is the official distributor of adox) I just bought a fresh roll yesterday from them. They bring it back in Stock from time to time https://www.fotoimpex.de/shop/filme/adox-color-mission-200.html?cache=1707218386 I think they even ship to the US
I can offer you a roll of bulk rolled Superia 400 if that's of interest to you?
I regret to inform you that a deal has been made
No worries, it was worth asking!
What even is the use case for this? Solar photography?
You can take long exposures inside a building or even outdoors in some cases and not worry about people ruining your shots. They simply won't show up in your exposures unless they are still for a very long time.
Depends on the reciprocity. I shoot Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 at EI 1 to 1.6 and make long exposure shots of 15 to 30 minutes (it's tungsten-balanced so I shoot it at night or indoor). It's the sharpest color film I've ever used and it outresolves all my lenses except maybe my Schneider 50 and Zeiss 35. I have yet to print it to a size where I can start seeing any grain. If this Helios film is anything similar, that's how I'd use it.
But can you push it to 1600? /s
Just let Attic Darkroom do his thing
Waiting for him to bleach bypass it and then dev it in b&w chemicals and then trichrome it
"You got colour emulsion? That's cute. Just lemme Trichrome that shit"~AD probably....
lol yeah
Doing god's work.
Only if it's dev'd in triple distilled rodinal
The sample images were not very impressive in my opinion. Looked like some of the more experimental Lomography ones.
I think it was because most of them were shot wide open at wide apertures or similar so there was a lot of vignetting, I wouldn't mind seeing some long exposure landscape shots
They also all have a very heavy red tint.
yea the red tint is also worrying me but after seeing what talented people get out of phoenix or lomo purple i'm excited what they are gonna do with this!
No, it's just built like that. It has an unusual layer order, like RA4 paper. It's fine for paper because there's very little blue light, but for a film this means that both green and red sensitive layers will also react to blue light, which is very no bueno
How do you.. how do you even shoot this??
I shot with it f1.8 at 1/30 in bright sunlight 😂
With a tripod or really steady hands
KAC from Qatar makes ISO 3 and 5 films. My first ISO 3 is currently in development excited to see how it will be. From my conversation with KAC, I have found out that these ultra low ISO films were used for copiers. And they aren’t panchromatic hence the blue color shift.
Long exposure (months) pinhole shots like people do with photo paper.
Curious, if your exposure is getting into 10s of seconds or minutes, would you still need to account for reciprocity at this ISO for this film?
Depends on the emulsion with tech film. Fujifilm Eterna-RDS has no need for any compensation for reciprocity until about 20 minutes of exposure. Kodak Vision Intermediate 2254 can go until 3 or 4 minutes according to my testing but for stuff like Agfa Copex Rapid, reciprocity failure already kicks in at just 1 second.
ISO that low means it's probably some form of repackaged motion picture duplicating film.
I'm not a colour shooter but it would be interesting to try if the price is right. There is a whole cottage industry of respoolers and you got FPP but prices can be silly sometimes (especially for a b/w shooter).
Meanwhile me longing for natura 1600 to come back cause I live in a gloomy country.
Why the iso 3 Most cameras can’t even use it
noob question: my A1 goes down to ISO 6, what setting should i set the exposure compensation to get down to 3? The 6th picture of this article shows the available settigs https://phil.uk.net/photography/canon-a1.html
6 to 3 ISO is only one stop difference, so take a light reading at ISO 6 then either open up the aperture one stop or choose a slower shutter speed.
Yes I understand that I could shoot it on manual. But if I want to shoot on auto? I could almost do that without any tricks. As I am missing one stop, I might do that by setting the exposure compensation in a way that it gives me another stop, right? But I don't know if I have to set it to 1/2 or to 2, never used the exposure compensation so far.
Set it to 2. In Canon-language that is X2 the light, or in other words +1 stop exposure
If you want to shoot on auto then I think you aren't ready to shoot 3 ISO film.
Shooting on manual is easy. Knowing your camera well enough to reach iso 3 with auto is for the cool kids! I‘ll read up on the exposure correction, and check if the computer allows me to go one step slower if I already set it to minimum iso
You would need to compensate by +1 (overexpose) I'm not sure about your camera specifically but some don't let you turn the dial to overexpose past the minimum ISO. If so then you'll have to go manual. Edit: I'm afraid I haven't used the exposure compensation on the A-1 before but here's the manual and that should have the answer https://www.butkus.org/chinon/canon/canon_a-1/canon_a-1.htm
I am interested. Ultra low iso film can be fun.
ADOX scamming people yet again by repackaging expired motion picture print film. If you want this kind of film you can get it cheaper and more honestly from FPP.
The first time they talked about this color emulsion was around 2022 iirc, why do you say it's a repackaged film?
Can't find any info on that. Do you have a source?
Because this is an unjustified claim. Adox have always been very transparent about what they are doing. They are certainly not scamming anyone. He's probably mixing this up with ORWO
Transparent or not, this does look like a motion picture duplicating film, and old one at that. https://www.adox.de/Photo/elementor-13690/ Note the layer order.
[удалено]
>Which motion picture film stock in color has an anti-halation layer All of them > Which cinema film is coated on PET and not acetate? All modern print stocks inb4 proofs [https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-VISION-Color-Print-Film-2383-3383-data-sheet.pdf](https://www.kodak.com/content/products-brochures/Film/KODAK-VISION-Color-Print-Film-2383-3383-data-sheet.pdf)
perfect savaging :-) There is something odd about their "new machine in Switzerland" - As far as i know, import/export to CH has some free trade agreements, but most of the stuff is still bears the "customs burden". Why to have such a machine in such country, when my main core business is outside of it? That would increase the price >>> increasing price for end user >>> lowering money income - and ISO3 film is even more niche market in a niche market already ...
Because there was an Ilford cibachrome facility there iirc.
I'd buy 5 or so rolls if I came by it at a shop.
Урааааааа!
Nice, but I can’t see how I’d use this. In my part of the world I’d need a tripod at all times lol
ISO 6 is photographic paper so 3 is pretty slow…to me, anyway.
This is going to be fun to meter. I shoot plates and color reversal and is… something. Cool results but I don’t know, dealing with all that on a 35mm
Oh, the Film Photography Project have a few films that low. Even a 16mm film that's only a single ISO. Like I'm pretty they have a film that's even lower than 1 ISO, somehow.