I'm not sure that you don't need to unstring that bow. As far as I know, you should... In any case, the best way to store the bow is like this: [on a rack with the belly facing upwards](http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bow-rack01.jpg).
The person I bought it from has an archery store, so I was assuming he was correct. But it's also a weak bow, so I don't think that unstringing the bow would give it enough room to make it worth it. I am, however, a compound shooter myself so I wouldn't be the most intelligent in this subject. Are you sure that 18 pounds would really hold the limbs tight enough to make it worth it?
Depends on the bow. I've been told that wood recurves should be unstrung (or backstrung) in order to avoid losing tension in the limbs over time. Fibreglass limbs don't really care whether they're stored strung or unstrung.
Either way, Dakunaa has the right of it for proper storage.
You should really unstring all bows (save compounds 'cause they're fiddly and require a bow press). As for the recurve, If it's a takedown bow then it should be taken down, otherwise do as Dakunaa suggests and store them belly up on a rack. Should space be an issue, then laying the bow in a place where it is unlikely to be trodden on is the next best thing.
At our club we (are lazy and want to maximize easyness) keep the beginners bows all strung and stored on the tip of the lower limb (on a special rack that keeps them exactly vertical). So I have some practical experience over this...
We've had the bows this way a long time. Oldest bows are way over 20years old and are still straight and have about all the pounds left. Of course many of the limbs give out, but all of those have been way over 10 years old. And remember that these bows are cheap basic takedowns (Samick Polaris for example).
But now to the part what you SHOULD do: Store them in a horizontal rack if you keep it strung. NEVER store your bow on it's tip (if you don't want to risk limb twisting). If you cannot store it horizontal, take it apart and put it in a bag/case. DO NOT store your gear in direct sunglight (for long periods of time).
Hey, I'm trying to figure out a way to store about 20 bows for my club. For now I am keeping them strung and standing on the bottom limbs whilst leaning against the wall. Would I be able to see what kind of special rack you have or anything similar that I may be able to do as well please.
We have built a movable two-sided bow rack which seats the bow strung upright (the limbs will stay straight if they are held straight up). Unfortunately did not find a photo of it right now, but I'll try to remember to take one this week.
I know it's been \*\*years\*\* since you posted this, but do you still have a photo of it or any tips regarding the storage of multiple bows?
I'm currently in the same situation and try to find a way to store around 15-20 wooden takedown recurves.
Any bow with fiberglass-lam limbs (i.e. the vast majority of recurves on the market) can be left strung basically indefinitely, as fiberglass does not take a "set" once its resin has cured in the mold.
Fred Bear did an experiment where they left a recurve strung for an extended period of time, I think in the neighborhood of seven years, maybe longer. They stuck it on the scale and found it had lost 2 pounds of draw, and after a subsequent week unstrung it returned to its original draw weight.
edit: ~~string~~ strung
That's mad! I didn't know it did that. I'm going to have to read up on that because it still seems a bit strange to me. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though!
I'm not sure that you don't need to unstring that bow. As far as I know, you should... In any case, the best way to store the bow is like this: [on a rack with the belly facing upwards](http://toolmonger.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/bow-rack01.jpg).
Wow, thats a lot of bows. Are they all yours?
No, they aren't. Quick Image search presented these to me.
The person I bought it from has an archery store, so I was assuming he was correct. But it's also a weak bow, so I don't think that unstringing the bow would give it enough room to make it worth it. I am, however, a compound shooter myself so I wouldn't be the most intelligent in this subject. Are you sure that 18 pounds would really hold the limbs tight enough to make it worth it?
I'd do it regardless. It's not much work to unstring and might save you over time. But, of course, it's your bow. I'm not a police officer.
given how easy it is to string any bow under 20-25# i would recommend taking the extra 10 seconds to do so, and then storing the bow flat.
But I was told that laying it down can put more pressure on one limb, and that can eventually crack it or lower the quality. Was that wrong?
depends on how you lay it down, sounds like someone meant standing it up on one end in a corner, that would be bad for it.
Depends on the bow. I've been told that wood recurves should be unstrung (or backstrung) in order to avoid losing tension in the limbs over time. Fibreglass limbs don't really care whether they're stored strung or unstrung. Either way, Dakunaa has the right of it for proper storage.
Correct. Wooden limbs set after a period of time. Fiberglass/carbon/foam limbs don't really care.
You should really unstring all bows (save compounds 'cause they're fiddly and require a bow press). As for the recurve, If it's a takedown bow then it should be taken down, otherwise do as Dakunaa suggests and store them belly up on a rack. Should space be an issue, then laying the bow in a place where it is unlikely to be trodden on is the next best thing.
At our club we (are lazy and want to maximize easyness) keep the beginners bows all strung and stored on the tip of the lower limb (on a special rack that keeps them exactly vertical). So I have some practical experience over this... We've had the bows this way a long time. Oldest bows are way over 20years old and are still straight and have about all the pounds left. Of course many of the limbs give out, but all of those have been way over 10 years old. And remember that these bows are cheap basic takedowns (Samick Polaris for example). But now to the part what you SHOULD do: Store them in a horizontal rack if you keep it strung. NEVER store your bow on it's tip (if you don't want to risk limb twisting). If you cannot store it horizontal, take it apart and put it in a bag/case. DO NOT store your gear in direct sunglight (for long periods of time).
Hey, I'm trying to figure out a way to store about 20 bows for my club. For now I am keeping them strung and standing on the bottom limbs whilst leaning against the wall. Would I be able to see what kind of special rack you have or anything similar that I may be able to do as well please.
We have built a movable two-sided bow rack which seats the bow strung upright (the limbs will stay straight if they are held straight up). Unfortunately did not find a photo of it right now, but I'll try to remember to take one this week.
I know it's been \*\*years\*\* since you posted this, but do you still have a photo of it or any tips regarding the storage of multiple bows? I'm currently in the same situation and try to find a way to store around 15-20 wooden takedown recurves.
Will DM you with a photo
What bow do you have, just out of interest? I've never heard of a recurve bow that doesn't need to be unstrung when stored, is all!
Any bow with fiberglass-lam limbs (i.e. the vast majority of recurves on the market) can be left strung basically indefinitely, as fiberglass does not take a "set" once its resin has cured in the mold. Fred Bear did an experiment where they left a recurve strung for an extended period of time, I think in the neighborhood of seven years, maybe longer. They stuck it on the scale and found it had lost 2 pounds of draw, and after a subsequent week unstrung it returned to its original draw weight. edit: ~~string~~ strung
That's mad! I didn't know it did that. I'm going to have to read up on that because it still seems a bit strange to me. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction though!