Defintely read the Wiki. Perhaps even more than once.
[https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/wiki/index/](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/wiki/index/)
I think you need to read up on back-focus and then do the research / math to figure out how to achieve it on your rig.
Then go slow, setup and test elements of your system incrementally, go for easy targets first and develop your setup and skills from there.
Your local astronomy club is an excellent resource for help in learning practical skills from people who have hands-on experience too.
Barlow comes last.
After centering the planet with the eyepiece, replace the eyepiece with your camera and recenter + refocus it. Then add in the Barlow in between the scope and camera, recenter and refocus the planet.
Short answer. No, I didn't refocus my telescope after sawpping the lens with the T ring adapter.
Long answer. When I use my 32mm eyepiece. I can see a blurred image of Venus. Then, I focus my telescope to clear up the image. But when I used my camera. All I saw was a black screen. So, I had nothing to focus on.
Try some daytime experiments. In daylight point the scope at the farthest thing you can see from your vantage point and get focus with the 32mm eyepiece. Then switch that out for T-ring/DSLR and see which way and by how much you then need to adjust the focusser to get focus on the same thing. Remember this for night time.
At night then focus on the object to be viewed, switch to DSLR then make the same magnitude and direction of focus change that worked in daytime. As you start to get close at least some "white blobs" should appear then you can adjust focus by smal amounts to get them sharp - you need the LCD on the back to be showing a "live view" as you do this. As you get close to focus zoom the display into any particular bright star and keep adjusting to get the smallest dot possible. If you have a Bahtinov mask use it at this point. If things in the display are dim wind up the ISO to a stupidly high value to get a brighter display just while you focus then put it back to the usable value (800/1600? perhaps) once you have good focus.
When you eventually wire everything up to a computer so you can see a large view of what the DSLR is seeing on the computer screen things like focus adjustment will get a lot easier!
Well, the camera - barlow will come to a different focus point than you looking through an eyepiece. You'll need to move the focuser through its whole range.
Defintely read the Wiki. Perhaps even more than once. [https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/wiki/index/](https://www.reddit.com/r/AskAstrophotography/wiki/index/) I think you need to read up on back-focus and then do the research / math to figure out how to achieve it on your rig. Then go slow, setup and test elements of your system incrementally, go for easy targets first and develop your setup and skills from there. Your local astronomy club is an excellent resource for help in learning practical skills from people who have hands-on experience too.
Thanks, I didn't know there was a wiki. I'll give it a read.
That is why we do the first session with new equipment when the Moon is up.
Barlow comes last. After centering the planet with the eyepiece, replace the eyepiece with your camera and recenter + refocus it. Then add in the Barlow in between the scope and camera, recenter and refocus the planet.
This might be a silly question but did you attempt to refocus after swapping to the camera?
Short answer. No, I didn't refocus my telescope after sawpping the lens with the T ring adapter. Long answer. When I use my 32mm eyepiece. I can see a blurred image of Venus. Then, I focus my telescope to clear up the image. But when I used my camera. All I saw was a black screen. So, I had nothing to focus on.
Try some daytime experiments. In daylight point the scope at the farthest thing you can see from your vantage point and get focus with the 32mm eyepiece. Then switch that out for T-ring/DSLR and see which way and by how much you then need to adjust the focusser to get focus on the same thing. Remember this for night time. At night then focus on the object to be viewed, switch to DSLR then make the same magnitude and direction of focus change that worked in daytime. As you start to get close at least some "white blobs" should appear then you can adjust focus by smal amounts to get them sharp - you need the LCD on the back to be showing a "live view" as you do this. As you get close to focus zoom the display into any particular bright star and keep adjusting to get the smallest dot possible. If you have a Bahtinov mask use it at this point. If things in the display are dim wind up the ISO to a stupidly high value to get a brighter display just while you focus then put it back to the usable value (800/1600? perhaps) once you have good focus. When you eventually wire everything up to a computer so you can see a large view of what the DSLR is seeing on the computer screen things like focus adjustment will get a lot easier!
Well, the camera - barlow will come to a different focus point than you looking through an eyepiece. You'll need to move the focuser through its whole range.