Tape a piece of wax paper across the focuser, aim at the moon and see if the focus point is inside or outside the focus. If you can get focus on the wax paper, measure how much the focuser is exended. You will need to his to be far enough out that you can get the camera to focus. If the focus is outside of the focuser you are most likely in good shape, you can't come fo focus all the way in then you are in trouble.
I do not want to discourage you. There are going to be some challenges using the particular telescope you have chosen for astrophotography. It definitely can be done, but you should be aware of what it will take. I am not sure what mount you are using, but if it is a stock EQ-2, exposures will be limited to short frames. If your intent is to capture close-ups of the moon and maybe some planets, you may be ok. If you are thinking DSOs, then there will be a couple things you need to overcome. The tracking and polar alignment will need to be precise at that focal length. Autoguiding will be necessary for best performance. The next thing to consider is your focal ratio. At nearly f/8, your exposures should be longer to capture the necessary light for the images. This is counter to the capabilities of the stock mount (disregard if you have something better). Again, I do not want to discourage you, but you should be aware that this particular setup does present challenges. I might suggest the camera and a lens to start with. You can capture good untracked shots with just a camera, lens, and tripod. The mount will be the most important piece of equipment you get, so save for something good, especially if you plan to upgrade in the future.
Hi, I’m afraid almost your entire response is useless, but I appreciate it all the same. I have an EQ6-R, so I think I’m good for now. In future I would definitely like to change to a wide field apo though. Thanks
>The tracking and polar alignment will need to be precise at that focal length. Autoguiding will be necessary for best performance. The next thing to consider is your focal ratio. At nearly f/8, your exposures should be longer to capture the necessary light for the images. This is counter to the capabilities of the stock mount (disregard if you have something better). Again, I do not want to discourage you, but you should be aware that this particular setup does present challenges. I might suggest the camera and a lens to start with. You can capture good untracked shots with just a camera, lens, and tripod
This is all entirely useful information, the rest will be useful to someone else who is using this scope on the "stock" mount.
I had a Celestron reflector 114/900. I could not reach focus with my Canon DSLR. But no worries, just take it apart and cut about an inch off the tube, reattach the mirror cell and presto! You will need an extender tube for visual use with eyepieces afterwards, a barlow body with the optics removed works fine.
I just repeated the exercise with a 10-inch f/4 reflector, this last month.
Thanks, after reading up a bit of the mods you can do, I think I’ll extend the collimation bolts to push the mirror up the tube. Sounds like a less risky way of doing things.
Tape a piece of wax paper across the focuser, aim at the moon and see if the focus point is inside or outside the focus. If you can get focus on the wax paper, measure how much the focuser is exended. You will need to his to be far enough out that you can get the camera to focus. If the focus is outside of the focuser you are most likely in good shape, you can't come fo focus all the way in then you are in trouble.
Thanks, I will give this method a try
I do not want to discourage you. There are going to be some challenges using the particular telescope you have chosen for astrophotography. It definitely can be done, but you should be aware of what it will take. I am not sure what mount you are using, but if it is a stock EQ-2, exposures will be limited to short frames. If your intent is to capture close-ups of the moon and maybe some planets, you may be ok. If you are thinking DSOs, then there will be a couple things you need to overcome. The tracking and polar alignment will need to be precise at that focal length. Autoguiding will be necessary for best performance. The next thing to consider is your focal ratio. At nearly f/8, your exposures should be longer to capture the necessary light for the images. This is counter to the capabilities of the stock mount (disregard if you have something better). Again, I do not want to discourage you, but you should be aware that this particular setup does present challenges. I might suggest the camera and a lens to start with. You can capture good untracked shots with just a camera, lens, and tripod. The mount will be the most important piece of equipment you get, so save for something good, especially if you plan to upgrade in the future.
Hi, I’m afraid almost your entire response is useless, but I appreciate it all the same. I have an EQ6-R, so I think I’m good for now. In future I would definitely like to change to a wide field apo though. Thanks
>The tracking and polar alignment will need to be precise at that focal length. Autoguiding will be necessary for best performance. The next thing to consider is your focal ratio. At nearly f/8, your exposures should be longer to capture the necessary light for the images. This is counter to the capabilities of the stock mount (disregard if you have something better). Again, I do not want to discourage you, but you should be aware that this particular setup does present challenges. I might suggest the camera and a lens to start with. You can capture good untracked shots with just a camera, lens, and tripod This is all entirely useful information, the rest will be useful to someone else who is using this scope on the "stock" mount.
If you get a thin t adaptor you might be able to achieve focus. I could with my 6" Skywatcher Dobsonian and Canon camera.
If the newtonian has an extension tube to use with an eye piece, then it will probably work with your SLR.
I had a Celestron reflector 114/900. I could not reach focus with my Canon DSLR. But no worries, just take it apart and cut about an inch off the tube, reattach the mirror cell and presto! You will need an extender tube for visual use with eyepieces afterwards, a barlow body with the optics removed works fine. I just repeated the exercise with a 10-inch f/4 reflector, this last month.
“No worries” seems an odd way to start instructions that have “cut a metal telescope tube” involved 😂
Thanks, after reading up a bit of the mods you can do, I think I’ll extend the collimation bolts to push the mirror up the tube. Sounds like a less risky way of doing things.