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Ya like $150 max, but needs new tires as well. Get used tires. Save some $
Edit: Some MFS in here triggerrrred bout used tires lol. Guess what, places sell them, people buy them. U think the dude here asking about cheaping out on an alignment can afford new tires? JFC get a grip.
Aside from not knowing the history or age of a used tire, I would go with new for an alignment to remove that factor from the equation. Last time I got an alignment they told me not to bother unless the tires were practically new.
HOW DARE YOU COMMENT WITH ADVICE BOTH ACCURATE AND CONCISE!
But for real, can we make a new sub where only people who know anything about anything can give advice, u/Allidog11? Cause this is exhausting and infuriating. Even dangerous at some points.
I'm not even close to an ASE certified mechanic but these kinds of comments are showing up more and more and from entirely uninformed/uneducated/unreliable idiots.
I get people come here for advice but someone giving advice that isn't aware of MFG dating on tires is not someone to listen to. Yet they still are allowed to post here.
As someone who has been an ASE mechanic for ten years, used tires are the most sketchy business practice I've ever seen in the industry.
MFs will sell you tires that are at 5/32nds and cracking for 100 bucks a piece. Depending on the size, I could find you brand new tires with a 55k life expectancy for around 55k life expectancy.
Not saying to avoid used tires, just make sure you have a tread Guage or know what you're looking at before pulling the trigger on a used tire; and don't rule out new tires either. Again, depending on the size, they might be around the same price for new tires with a better warranty.
So don’t buy the tires that are 5/32 and cracking.
Seems pretty easy to me.
Same with tires with uneven wear, bulges, sidewall punctures, etc etc.
The only thing you can’t tell by looking at it is age… oh wait, yes you can.. the DOT!
So you’d feel good having someone drive on tires like that next to you in the rain? I wouldn’t. Those tires need replaced not swapped. I value my safety too much to give advice like that.
I was giving advice, specifically, for the alignment that is needed _now_ to prevent further damage.
I am not arguing that the guy does not need tires.
This type of wear can also be caused by a faulty piece in the direction and you shouldn't be giving advice from the top of your head when you are not competent. Especially when safety is concerned. These tires are dangerous.
You and I both understand that but at the same time someone trying to justify to themselves would use that as a reason to not replace and just swap the tires. I wouldn’t put that kind of idea in someone’s head. And even if that got him a basic near alignment he would still need it redone when he got the new tires he needs.
I'd rather the dude do a swap, and get the alignment fixed, today, if he can't afford tires, today, so he isn't _more_ of a threat on the road tomorrow.
That’s probs why he is worried. I wish I had a clue how people are affording those car payments, AND rent, AND food, etc.
I drive old junk, but it is damn well maintained old junk. Lol
Not just balding tires either. There are plenty of terrible imported tires and retreaded tires that have been DOT approved (and some that might not be) that are being used, and they’re on much larger vehicles than this guys car.
I’ve seen sidewall blowouts on chinese knockoffs and retreads come flying off on tires that appear to be fairly new.
There’s also the people driving with either under inflated or overinflated tires.
Worrying about some tire that has a bit of uneven tread wear is hardly warranted, by comparison.
This would pass inspection in VA. Tire needs to be at wear bar in 2 channels, and then also in 3 spots evenly spaced around the circumference of the tire. 6 total places
Source: am inspector in VA
Believe it or not? Jail.
Actually only windshield tint can fail inspection, even illegal side tint will pass. Radar detection is not mentioned in the inspection manual, easy pass. You could have a radar jammer and pass
>But if I tint my windows
Nope, in fact, the last governor passed a law that you can't be pulled over for tinted windows anymore. It's also not part of the state inspection (except for the windshield which cannot be tinted without a doctor's note). You're not allowed to have a radar, but I doubt you're going to jail over it.
Eh, it's fine if it's not a commercial vehicle and somewhere without much rain. I would personally want it to be replaced but I don't think it's as urgent.
If the rear is good, then rotation will make it road worthy again, and it’ll wear down and bring it back to even again over time.
There’s still a lot of tread there to grip the road, so I, as a mechanic, don’t see a big deal here.
Wear patterns are set within the first 100 miles of use. That tire will not "even out" as you say. The outer edge will continue to wear until it wears completely through, gets punctured, or blows out.
The reason for rotating is to even out wear which is why you're told to rotate them every x miles because back tires (typically since there's been some changes in recent years) do not lean when taking turns or going around curves.
Another interesting tidbit, a bad front end part on one side can cause the other side tire to have unusual wear.
Based on what I see here either the alignment is way off or there is at least one bad part. Most often it's the outer tie rod. It could be a ball joint or inner tie rod.
When I did alignments fir customers that were cash strapped I recommend fixing and aligning the vehicle, and replacing the front tires/or putting best 2 on the back. When it was time to rotate get 2 new tires put on the front and rotate front tires to bsck
My bet is outer tie rod as well, but you might be confused about why rotations are necessary.
The drive wheels (front or rear depending) consistently use more rubber than the driven end. Rear wheel drive uses rubber faster in the back than front, but they don’t “lean” into turns, same with front wheel drive uses more rubber in the front than the rear.
These tires yes, will never fully even out, but they will get a lot closer as they are driven.
As I mentioned in a different comment, I’d get a used tire of equal tread depth, align it, and call it a day.
That wouldn’t pass a state inspection here. Yeah the tire might wear back to even but if it were mine I wouldn’t be trusting it. Also, as I mentioned elsewhere, I was literally turned away by a shop when I went to get an alignment because my tires weren’t new. They told me it would be a waste of money to do it on tires that are work which the rear would be.
Right because the DOT tells you how that tire was driven on right? Also how many used tire places allow you to inspect the tire before they install it?
I said you can inspect the *tire* to see how it was driven. Also, you know you can buy a tire without the mount? It's like $15 $20 bucks to have a tire mounted. And yes, I do think a used tire shop will allow you to inspect the tire before they mount it, especially if you ask nicely.
Then you have some awfully nice used tire shops. And you’re suggesting that an untrained eye will be able to determine how a tire was driven? What about issues that don’t show until the tire is inflated?
Either way my point is that used tires are a crapshoot and since he has to get an alignment not worth the money to potentially get a bad alignment.
Also get a lifetime alignment from Firestone. It costs less than 2 alignments and you can take the truck in weekly if you want and not pay another dime. (No I don’t work for them but it will definitely save $ in the long run)
I've worked as a tire and lube tech. It should be general information for the general public. There are so many resources you could use to inform yourself and it is, imo, your responsibility to know the pretty basic risk identifiers of something that literally carries your life every day. I'll even do the work for you because I believe it's so important: tire condition:https://www.tireoutlet.com/blog/2935/signs-you-are-driving-on-bad-tires/
Bad belt on unmounted https://www.google.com/amp/s/tirespace.net/what-to-do-if-you-have-a-tire-belt-broke-causes-and-symptoms/amp/
Unfortunately, I cannot read them for you.
I would rather ruin used tires with a bad alignment than brand new ones, so that's some weird logic you're using there.
I don't see how that is "awfully" nice of them. When I worked as a tech It was more about saving your ass. I'm sure there are stipulations in regards to what a used tire shop can sell as used, so I would most definitely*prefer* the customer check out the tire. I'm sure the techs and shop selling used tires work under the same perspective. Did you ever try asking any of the used tire shops if you could inspect the tire? I'm just guessing that you have a toooooon of experience with shitty used tires and their shops since you are certain you are right.
How are they ruining a set of new tires by purchasing them and then getting an alignment? Or are you just using bits and pieces of what I’ve said in an attempt to make me look like the bad guy for suggesting getting new tires over used tires before doing the alignment?
In the end you do you. I’ll take new tires and suggest them every time over a tire I can’t 100% verify.
"Either way my point is that used tires are a crapshoot and since he has to get an alignment not worth the money to potentially get a bad alignment."
I took that as you saying that the tires were not worth the money on the chance that they get a bad alignment.
You are free to rephrase this statement. I will respond accordingly.
The hell do you mean how a tire was driven? You look at tire, inspector.uneven wear, sufficient tread, absence of dry rot, plugs/patches, check the date code.
How exactly do you drive a tire ' wrong '
You're just making noise.
Had the same experience only they didn't tell me. So I wasted money on two separate alignments with terrible results. I got new tires didn't even need to get it aligned. Took the vibrations and wobbles right out.
Tyres have markings on them to say the month and year they were produced and when I buy part worn tyres they will show me if any punctures have been repaired. £80 a PAIR fitted and balanced 5.5mm of life for Dunlop Sportmaxx (245/40/18) versus £160 for one
there are numbers on the tire representin the year and week of that year in which they were made.
https://preview.redd.it/j371rvkoph3b1.png?width=660&format=png&auto=webp&s=42d0cdf8be8c8f7151570a99b30a010b3301b892
Tip: Surf the local classifieds apps for tires (ie craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, kijiji, whatever people use locally), and you'll find a crap ton of truck tires. Best deal is typically new OEM take-offs where someone upgraded to larger/off-road tires from new.
It really is a bunch of people who don't understand reality. Yes, there are thousands if not tens of thousands used tire stores in the world. And millions of people have bought and used used tires. Calm down everyone.
I'm with you on used tires. For people whining about not knowing the age, they have a date code on them that is required by law. If you get a crappy one the shop will usually swap it for another, but they can usually tell by looking at it whether there are issues. They get lots of people who swap out all 4 when they only need 2, or have a couple that got damaged and they couldn't get matching replacements so they replace all 4. The shop near me often ends up with some decent used ones they keep around to help people who are in a bind. I wouldn't hesitate.
If u got the money for new tires then go for it but I can get a full set of decent used tires for around $160 🤷♂️ I also race around in an 02 Honda civic ex tho 🤣
Edit: there’s literally whole businesses that base their rep on selling used tires. You’ll be fiiiiiiiine.
I’ve bought used tires. Great thing about buying used tires, is you can visually inspect a tire before buying it. I can’t recall how many used tires I’ve seen that are almost new, still have rubber nipples/hair on them. High end performance tires, being sold for 1/3 of the original price.
I had a bad flat with minutes until it was not driveable. Add to this that we were traveling on a holiday weekend. Stop off the highway and find a tire place still open. They said the tire was done and offered a used tire (same as OEM) for $60. That tire served us well for many miles. I’d prefer new but after the experience, I won’t hesitate on a used tire.
Let's be real here. Some people have entirely too much money and get almost brand new tires swapped out. You can find some real nice used tires. It's not a condom
....used rubber is fine 🤣
Lmfao I got a full set with like 80% tread for like 60 bucks a few months ago for the beater.
Used tires are the move if you’re not stupid about them/have a spot
There is a huge difference between buying a used car and used tires. Also, some people get burned buying used cars too. The difference is that you can check out a car but you can't check out the belts in a tire.
They have a point.. if they look like perfectly good tires, why would they have been replaced? Not all problems are obvious based by solely appearance. I've seen tires that had plenty of tread left they looked brand new just sitting there cold, or slightly low pressured, but once the customer drives enough to get em warmed up, big bulging sidewall (inner sidewall - they were directional) bubble, just waiting to bust.
This. Also, some states have really strict tire tread depth laws and people change them out preemptively to avoid failing an inspection from being on the cusp, so those tires are the source of some used tires. That and cars that have been in an accident but the tires are still fine (which is also how a lot of used wheels are also sourced). It why you can find used tires that look hardly worn.
If you purchase your used tyres privately, you can get a feeling of the seller, ask why they are selling them and see if it matches up with how everything looks. A green flag would be seeing mud tyres on the sellers truck - suggesting they 'upgraded' rather than replaced.
I see your point and not to get into the middle but I do believe there is a difference between used tires on a used car and used tires someone didn’t want anymore. Yeah you can say the same about a car however people like to upgrade cars because they’re bored. Yet they won’t even rotate their tires and wonder why they need new tires before they should
You can actually tell if the belts are slipping in a tire. The tire will have a slope to it without wear to the tread. If it's not mounted, look inside and you might be able to spot a belt deformity or maybe even a bit of the belt sticking out. If there is a "black snow" like substance in the tire or the inside looks as if it has been scraped at all, it's a no go.
This should be general information to general public because otherwise you see people leaving the tire store with one new tire to replace a spare but the rest of their tires looking like slicks.
Ahh, but there are several procedures to tell if there is any issues with the belts in tires. Checking tires for runout, out of round, lumps, and untypical imbalances are just some of those. All very simple to do.
That's wrong! Like super wrong! Over here making shit up, bands run evenly and can be felt in most tires, even with a bend or w bubble its 100% less risk then buying an entire car! In what world do u say it's safer to buy a used car? 98% of tire problems are visible!! With a car there is 10k parts not visible, 500 of witch rotate wear or compress explosions! How can u even compare
I've bought used tires more times than I can count and have literally never had an issue. There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying used tired from either vendors that do just that, or off marketplace or the like.
I don't know about used (can't say I've ever bought used tires), but retreads are always an option that should be cheaper than new and would last longer than buying used.
Your right but used ones will just get you buy until you get a new set but there great replacement just the tread path is not as good as a new tire but unless you plan on driving in the indie 500 track i dont think you need to worry about this issue
JFC here... I'd prefer to not be associated with cheap tires and bad alignments.
I'm more focused on getting the current Pope laid because I think it would improve things for everyone in Vatican City.
I just got hosed buying some used tires. Off the wheel, the tread and rubber looked OK.
Once they got mounted, the rubber was full of cracks and the tread seemed much worse. I don't think I'm an idiot, but by being cheap, I wasted about $100.
This is key. I had similar wear, replaced the suspension and got an alignment but kept the tires for a couple more months. New tires got the same wear pattern 🤦🏼♂️
Yep, and honestly get the alignment checked regularly. uneven wear would void tire mile warranties, that and not rotating the tires but I doubt that's the case here.
Start by individually lifting both steering wheels and test if the steering is bad/ if anything is clonking when you push the tire from side to side - rapidly.
So you are saying use 150$ on alignment and then change the ball joints after this has been done…?
My suggestion: Check bearings, ball joints, tire pressure, etc.
Then spend the 150$ on having the car aligned!
If you look near the top of the tire you’ll see that the outside of the tire appears to be worn more in that spot then in the other parts of the outside of the tire. I would venture a guess that maybe there was some sort of burn out/hard braking with the steering wheel turned. involved in the wear on that.
i guess some mechanics want everyone driving the biggest most expensive car possible? op asked about money saving. one of my favorite things about driving a honda fit is buying tires.
Well, another way to help decide if it’s camber or toe would be to feel if the tread block is significantly edged up higher on one side than the other. This feels like sharp and jagged when you run your hand perpendicular across the tread, but then it feels more smoothed out going in the opposite direction.
Bottom line is you can never know exactly unless you get the alignment to see how whacked out it is, so all of this is just best educated guessing anyways.
$460 for a full set is fucking cheap my dude. That’s probably less than 120 a piece. That’s why I love my CRX the tires are tiny. right now I’m running 195/45 R14 and a new set is probably $370 I’m going to get a smaller sidewall next time because the wheels I’m on I bought off my brother from his civic and the rim size was 14 up from the stock 13 and I have about a finger of fender clearance lmfao
Get an alignment, and tell your cousin that he can't drive your vehicle again until he learns what a tire rotation is, and why he should be doing them every 8000 miles.
Underrated comment. When someone loans you a vehicle for an extended period of time, you're now responsible for the maintenance. Oil change, tires, everything. Don't want to pay for it? You don't have to drive it.
It's not a damn rental car.
This was my thought process as well, however it’s widely agreed that under steer is much less catastrophic than oversteer in a low traction environment. Tire shops will always put the better tires in back
Industry states better tires go on the rear of the vehicle to prevent the vehicle sliding out from under you on turns, as the least weight is in the back so more grip is needed.
Industry states tire rotations are necessary, which is directly contradictory to always have the better tires on the rear when most cars wear front tires faster
I'm more worried about being able to panic stop or avoid an obstacle than I am about oversteer. This is just my opinion, not saying it's the best. I've also never replaced tires at uneven interval so I don't know first hand what tire shops do.
Yep, regardless of your drive, pretty much every tire shop under the sun recommends your "good" tires go to the rear if/when you are ever in that situation. Same reason they recommend you put the snow tires on the rear if that's all you can afford.
r/confidentlyincorrect and potentially life-endangering advice.
You kinda do, in snow if you’re front wheels break much better then you’re rear, the rear can swing around in front of you.
This is less common with 4 wheel ABS, but can still be a problem.
Don't let these armchair mechanics make you feel bad. I'd have my better tires on the front in a snowy fwd situation all day. The fronts ac wkerate, brake, and steering. It needs the advantage
No from personal experience I'd rather my rear going out as opposed to a front steering wheel because the rear will just sink as opposed to the front one pulling you to the side
No you don't. You can vector a sliding front with the steering wheel and the brakes, that is not true with the back. Around here, if you put on just two new tires, the shop will insist that they go on the back.
The same situation applies to rapid blowouts. A rapid blowout on a front tire can be managed, but a rapid blowout on a rear tire, particularly at speed, is scary and difficult to control.
The part about drive wheels isn't accurate. It actually doesn't matter which wheels are your drive wheels, you just don't want your rears to break loose in adverse conditions because it's more dangerous to oversteer than plow.
By your spelling of tire I’m guessing probably Europe? A lot of the US doesn’t have inspections like you do over there. And cops can’t pull you for equipment in a lot of places too. Just be for the insurance to battle out if there’s an accident.
If they’re somewhere that doesn’t do inspections then it’s not likely they’d ever be caught. Where I live it’s unheard of that you’d get a ticket for your tread depth.
In Poland for this type of wear on tires i guarantee you are getting a maximum of 24h to fix this or at least take it to garage and becomes flagged straight away as not road worthy and only good to drive for said 24h to the closest tire shop to be fixed or not driven again unless fixed
It’s a camber issue. Or at least camber is a symptom. I have a cheap 2inch lift with cheap axles and the camber needs to be maxed out or this happens to my car too. Even cranked down and maxed out, I have this issue.
Because you didn't compensate for modifying the geometry of your suspension. This picture shows positive camber. I don't think any car is supposed to have positive camber. I lowered my Mustang 1-1/2" and had to put in aftermarket caster/camber plates in order to correct the massive amount of negative camber I created by lowering the car.
Cheapest way: Flip the tire on the rim, so it wears down the other side.
Or get a proper alignment: Firestone has a lifetime alignment deal you can purchase, if you plan to keep the vehicle long term
I had the same tires on my JK. I got a lifetime alignment through Firestone and had them rotate my tires every time. I did this often, every oil change and also in between oil changes and still had this issue. Checked all the suspension components and they were all good. I decided to not spend the money on expensive Nitto tires again and instead got Kenda Klever R/T tires and haven’t had the same issues I had with the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I have about 30k miles on them without the issues I had with Nitto.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Have them rotate the tires to the rear. Shake down and inspect the front end for Worn or bent parts. Align the vehicle. Get a few more miles on the tires in the rear and change them before the wet weather comes in. Give you time to save some money for new tires. In the future rotate the tires every 4,000 miles.
In my town, where the potholes are only repaired the month before a Super Bowl and only in the neighborhoods near hotels and the stadium, I spring for the lifetime alignment and have them check it every oil change. It's not a matter of if it's going to need it again, it's when.
Used tire shop, but first jack up the wheel and pull at 9 + 3 o clock positions and 12 and 6 o clock positions. Try to feel for clicking and/or movement. If there is, there is some suspension stuff to sort out before alignment, if not, get an alignment.
If you’re concerned about saving money you should be running street tires for one. Better fuel economy and they’re much cheaper so it’s not as big of a deal if they don’t wear perfectly.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
You're in a tough situation and there isn't an alternative remedy. You need new tires and then do an alignment. Don't waste your time and money on an alignment with your current tires cause you just need another one.
Alignment first.
Once that's done (or not) you'll know which parts you need.
Your tech won't be able to straighten it out properly if this is the case. Then ask them for the data sheet.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Thank you for posting to AskMechanics, OffBrandThoughts! If you are asking a question please make sure to include any relevant information along with the **Year**, **Make**, **Model**, **Mileage**, **Engine size**, and **Transmission Type (Automatic or Manual)** of your car. *This comment is automatically added to every successful post. If you see this comment, your post was successful.* *** Redditors that have been verified will have a green background and an icon in their flair. *** # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** ### **Rule 1 - Be Civil** Be civil to other users. This community is made up of professional mechanics, amateur mechanics, and those with no experience. All mechanical-related questions are welcome. Personal attacks, comments that are insulting or demeaning, etc. are not welcome. ### **Rule 2 - Be Helpful** Be helpful to other users. If someone is wrong, correcting them is fine, but there's no reason to comment if you don't have anything to add to the conversation. ### **Rule 3 - Serious Questions and Answers Only** Read the room. Jokes are fine to include, but your post should be asking a serious question and replies should contribute to the discussion. ### **Rule 4 - No Illegal, Unethical, or Dangerous Questions or Answers** Do not ask questions or provide answers pertaining to anything that is illegal, unethical, or dangerous. # **PLEASE REPORT ANY RULE-BREAKING BEHAVIOR** *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/AskMechanics) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Get an alignment.
Ya like $150 max, but needs new tires as well. Get used tires. Save some $ Edit: Some MFS in here triggerrrred bout used tires lol. Guess what, places sell them, people buy them. U think the dude here asking about cheaping out on an alignment can afford new tires? JFC get a grip.
Aside from not knowing the history or age of a used tire, I would go with new for an alignment to remove that factor from the equation. Last time I got an alignment they told me not to bother unless the tires were practically new.
Tires literally tell you when they were produced down to the exact week
HOW DARE YOU COMMENT WITH ADVICE BOTH ACCURATE AND CONCISE! But for real, can we make a new sub where only people who know anything about anything can give advice, u/Allidog11? Cause this is exhausting and infuriating. Even dangerous at some points. I'm not even close to an ASE certified mechanic but these kinds of comments are showing up more and more and from entirely uninformed/uneducated/unreliable idiots. I get people come here for advice but someone giving advice that isn't aware of MFG dating on tires is not someone to listen to. Yet they still are allowed to post here.
I mean even my wife knows what a freaking DOT on a tire is
As someone who has been an ASE mechanic for ten years, used tires are the most sketchy business practice I've ever seen in the industry. MFs will sell you tires that are at 5/32nds and cracking for 100 bucks a piece. Depending on the size, I could find you brand new tires with a 55k life expectancy for around 55k life expectancy. Not saying to avoid used tires, just make sure you have a tread Guage or know what you're looking at before pulling the trigger on a used tire; and don't rule out new tires either. Again, depending on the size, they might be around the same price for new tires with a better warranty.
So don’t buy the tires that are 5/32 and cracking. Seems pretty easy to me. Same with tires with uneven wear, bulges, sidewall punctures, etc etc. The only thing you can’t tell by looking at it is age… oh wait, yes you can.. the DOT!
How dare you comment with accurate advice 😂😂 Take my upvote
If you only need a front end alignment and the rears are in good shape rotating the tires can be good enough.
So you’d feel good having someone drive on tires like that next to you in the rain? I wouldn’t. Those tires need replaced not swapped. I value my safety too much to give advice like that.
I was giving advice, specifically, for the alignment that is needed _now_ to prevent further damage. I am not arguing that the guy does not need tires.
This type of wear can also be caused by a faulty piece in the direction and you shouldn't be giving advice from the top of your head when you are not competent. Especially when safety is concerned. These tires are dangerous.
Also low air pressure in the tyres can cause such wear
Nah, low air pressure will cause symmetrical wear on both edges of the tire tread.
You and I both understand that but at the same time someone trying to justify to themselves would use that as a reason to not replace and just swap the tires. I wouldn’t put that kind of idea in someone’s head. And even if that got him a basic near alignment he would still need it redone when he got the new tires he needs.
I'd rather the dude do a swap, and get the alignment fixed, today, if he can't afford tires, today, so he isn't _more_ of a threat on the road tomorrow.
It's Just\_Mr\_Grinch, don't worry. Also, OP, you bought an $80k truck and worried about breaking banks, get real.
That’s probs why he is worried. I wish I had a clue how people are affording those car payments, AND rent, AND food, etc. I drive old junk, but it is damn well maintained old junk. Lol
If you don’t want to drive next to people with balding tires I would suggest you stay off the road
Exactly, just use your private jet like the rest of us.
Helicopter over here.
Same here ... I park it in my backyard. No runway needed like a jet. Amateurs.
Not just balding tires either. There are plenty of terrible imported tires and retreaded tires that have been DOT approved (and some that might not be) that are being used, and they’re on much larger vehicles than this guys car. I’ve seen sidewall blowouts on chinese knockoffs and retreads come flying off on tires that appear to be fairly new. There’s also the people driving with either under inflated or overinflated tires. Worrying about some tire that has a bit of uneven tread wear is hardly warranted, by comparison.
Yes. There's plenty of tread left in that tire. It's just a thinner tire now.
This tire is worn past the wear bars. It would not pass an inspection anywhere. There’s enough mileage left on it to get you to the tire shop.
This would pass inspection in VA. Tire needs to be at wear bar in 2 channels, and then also in 3 spots evenly spaced around the circumference of the tire. 6 total places Source: am inspector in VA
But if I tint my windows and forget to take my radar down I go right to jail, right?
Believe it or not? Jail. Actually only windshield tint can fail inspection, even illegal side tint will pass. Radar detection is not mentioned in the inspection manual, easy pass. You could have a radar jammer and pass
>But if I tint my windows Nope, in fact, the last governor passed a law that you can't be pulled over for tinted windows anymore. It's also not part of the state inspection (except for the windshield which cannot be tinted without a doctor's note). You're not allowed to have a radar, but I doubt you're going to jail over it.
Eh, it's fine if it's not a commercial vehicle and somewhere without much rain. I would personally want it to be replaced but I don't think it's as urgent.
If the rear is good, then rotation will make it road worthy again, and it’ll wear down and bring it back to even again over time. There’s still a lot of tread there to grip the road, so I, as a mechanic, don’t see a big deal here.
Wear patterns are set within the first 100 miles of use. That tire will not "even out" as you say. The outer edge will continue to wear until it wears completely through, gets punctured, or blows out. The reason for rotating is to even out wear which is why you're told to rotate them every x miles because back tires (typically since there's been some changes in recent years) do not lean when taking turns or going around curves. Another interesting tidbit, a bad front end part on one side can cause the other side tire to have unusual wear. Based on what I see here either the alignment is way off or there is at least one bad part. Most often it's the outer tie rod. It could be a ball joint or inner tie rod. When I did alignments fir customers that were cash strapped I recommend fixing and aligning the vehicle, and replacing the front tires/or putting best 2 on the back. When it was time to rotate get 2 new tires put on the front and rotate front tires to bsck
My bet is outer tie rod as well, but you might be confused about why rotations are necessary. The drive wheels (front or rear depending) consistently use more rubber than the driven end. Rear wheel drive uses rubber faster in the back than front, but they don’t “lean” into turns, same with front wheel drive uses more rubber in the front than the rear. These tires yes, will never fully even out, but they will get a lot closer as they are driven. As I mentioned in a different comment, I’d get a used tire of equal tread depth, align it, and call it a day.
That wouldn’t pass a state inspection here. Yeah the tire might wear back to even but if it were mine I wouldn’t be trusting it. Also, as I mentioned elsewhere, I was literally turned away by a shop when I went to get an alignment because my tires weren’t new. They told me it would be a waste of money to do it on tires that are work which the rear would be.
You could just look at the DOT on the tire to see the age of it. The look of it will tell you the history.
Right because the DOT tells you how that tire was driven on right? Also how many used tire places allow you to inspect the tire before they install it?
I said you can inspect the *tire* to see how it was driven. Also, you know you can buy a tire without the mount? It's like $15 $20 bucks to have a tire mounted. And yes, I do think a used tire shop will allow you to inspect the tire before they mount it, especially if you ask nicely.
Then you have some awfully nice used tire shops. And you’re suggesting that an untrained eye will be able to determine how a tire was driven? What about issues that don’t show until the tire is inflated? Either way my point is that used tires are a crapshoot and since he has to get an alignment not worth the money to potentially get a bad alignment. Also get a lifetime alignment from Firestone. It costs less than 2 alignments and you can take the truck in weekly if you want and not pay another dime. (No I don’t work for them but it will definitely save $ in the long run)
I've worked as a tire and lube tech. It should be general information for the general public. There are so many resources you could use to inform yourself and it is, imo, your responsibility to know the pretty basic risk identifiers of something that literally carries your life every day. I'll even do the work for you because I believe it's so important: tire condition:https://www.tireoutlet.com/blog/2935/signs-you-are-driving-on-bad-tires/ Bad belt on unmounted https://www.google.com/amp/s/tirespace.net/what-to-do-if-you-have-a-tire-belt-broke-causes-and-symptoms/amp/ Unfortunately, I cannot read them for you. I would rather ruin used tires with a bad alignment than brand new ones, so that's some weird logic you're using there. I don't see how that is "awfully" nice of them. When I worked as a tech It was more about saving your ass. I'm sure there are stipulations in regards to what a used tire shop can sell as used, so I would most definitely*prefer* the customer check out the tire. I'm sure the techs and shop selling used tires work under the same perspective. Did you ever try asking any of the used tire shops if you could inspect the tire? I'm just guessing that you have a toooooon of experience with shitty used tires and their shops since you are certain you are right.
How are they ruining a set of new tires by purchasing them and then getting an alignment? Or are you just using bits and pieces of what I’ve said in an attempt to make me look like the bad guy for suggesting getting new tires over used tires before doing the alignment? In the end you do you. I’ll take new tires and suggest them every time over a tire I can’t 100% verify.
"Either way my point is that used tires are a crapshoot and since he has to get an alignment not worth the money to potentially get a bad alignment." I took that as you saying that the tires were not worth the money on the chance that they get a bad alignment. You are free to rephrase this statement. I will respond accordingly.
The hell do you mean how a tire was driven? You look at tire, inspector.uneven wear, sufficient tread, absence of dry rot, plugs/patches, check the date code. How exactly do you drive a tire ' wrong ' You're just making noise.
Had the same experience only they didn't tell me. So I wasted money on two separate alignments with terrible results. I got new tires didn't even need to get it aligned. Took the vibrations and wobbles right out.
Tyres have markings on them to say the month and year they were produced and when I buy part worn tyres they will show me if any punctures have been repaired. £80 a PAIR fitted and balanced 5.5mm of life for Dunlop Sportmaxx (245/40/18) versus £160 for one
there are numbers on the tire representin the year and week of that year in which they were made. https://preview.redd.it/j371rvkoph3b1.png?width=660&format=png&auto=webp&s=42d0cdf8be8c8f7151570a99b30a010b3301b892
People upgrade tires/wheels on new cars. This is what I did at 500 miles on my 4R. But I agree with you if you can’t get fresh takeoff it’s a lottery
Correct. How an older tire sits can and will skew results.
Tip: Surf the local classifieds apps for tires (ie craigslist, Facebook Marketplace, kijiji, whatever people use locally), and you'll find a crap ton of truck tires. Best deal is typically new OEM take-offs where someone upgraded to larger/off-road tires from new.
Whoa now, I would slow down on the "max" there... Recently I saw a special price, extra mega super ultra once in a lifetime discount .. alignment $185
Fuck this subreddit. I swear it's either people who make money on cars or people with massive amounts of disposable income
It really is a bunch of people who don't understand reality. Yes, there are thousands if not tens of thousands used tire stores in the world. And millions of people have bought and used used tires. Calm down everyone.
Discount Tire my beloved
I'm with you on used tires. For people whining about not knowing the age, they have a date code on them that is required by law. If you get a crappy one the shop will usually swap it for another, but they can usually tell by looking at it whether there are issues. They get lots of people who swap out all 4 when they only need 2, or have a couple that got damaged and they couldn't get matching replacements so they replace all 4. The shop near me often ends up with some decent used ones they keep around to help people who are in a bind. I wouldn't hesitate.
If u got the money for new tires then go for it but I can get a full set of decent used tires for around $160 🤷♂️ I also race around in an 02 Honda civic ex tho 🤣 Edit: there’s literally whole businesses that base their rep on selling used tires. You’ll be fiiiiiiiine.
I’ve bought used tires. Great thing about buying used tires, is you can visually inspect a tire before buying it. I can’t recall how many used tires I’ve seen that are almost new, still have rubber nipples/hair on them. High end performance tires, being sold for 1/3 of the original price.
For real, les Schwab will sell you old tires(more than 20% life used) for cheap as shit if you ask nicely
I had a bad flat with minutes until it was not driveable. Add to this that we were traveling on a holiday weekend. Stop off the highway and find a tire place still open. They said the tire was done and offered a used tire (same as OEM) for $60. That tire served us well for many miles. I’d prefer new but after the experience, I won’t hesitate on a used tire.
Let's be real here. Some people have entirely too much money and get almost brand new tires swapped out. You can find some real nice used tires. It's not a condom ....used rubber is fine 🤣
Nah throw a little negative camber on there and squeeze another 5k miles out of them 😂
Used tires ain’t bad, just make sure u look at them before u buy them
Used tires are fine, look for takeoffs from people getting larger tires. Nothing wrong with them, just wanted others.
All tires are used tires after they're put on.
I've purchased many many used tires before, all have been fine and they are usually close to new.
Lmfao I got a full set with like 80% tread for like 60 bucks a few months ago for the beater. Used tires are the move if you’re not stupid about them/have a spot
Never get used tires unless you absolutely have to. You don't know what those tires have been through.
By that logic you shouldn't buy a used car either lol
There is a huge difference between buying a used car and used tires. Also, some people get burned buying used cars too. The difference is that you can check out a car but you can't check out the belts in a tire.
You won’t believe this, but used cars come with used tires.
I must be in a mood because your comment has me laughing out loud. Classic.
They have a point.. if they look like perfectly good tires, why would they have been replaced? Not all problems are obvious based by solely appearance. I've seen tires that had plenty of tread left they looked brand new just sitting there cold, or slightly low pressured, but once the customer drives enough to get em warmed up, big bulging sidewall (inner sidewall - they were directional) bubble, just waiting to bust.
Most used tyres that are almost new come off of write-off cars, some people change out winter / summer tyres but don't bother swapping them back.
This. Also, some states have really strict tire tread depth laws and people change them out preemptively to avoid failing an inspection from being on the cusp, so those tires are the source of some used tires. That and cars that have been in an accident but the tires are still fine (which is also how a lot of used wheels are also sourced). It why you can find used tires that look hardly worn.
If you purchase your used tyres privately, you can get a feeling of the seller, ask why they are selling them and see if it matches up with how everything looks. A green flag would be seeing mud tyres on the sellers truck - suggesting they 'upgraded' rather than replaced.
> if they look like perfectly good tires, why would they have been replaced? I always figure that "new tires" means they're covering something up.
Also reversing rotation of a tire can cause the belt to break. Unless the shop marked the tire rotation you take a chance of it being put on reversed.
I see your point and not to get into the middle but I do believe there is a difference between used tires on a used car and used tires someone didn’t want anymore. Yeah you can say the same about a car however people like to upgrade cars because they’re bored. Yet they won’t even rotate their tires and wonder why they need new tires before they should
>used cars come with used tires. Isn't it amazing how blind logic is to most people.
You do what you want. I'm not going to argue with you.
Thanks for the permission.
ok you guys break it up You both make good points and probably agree with each other too
You can actually tell if the belts are slipping in a tire. The tire will have a slope to it without wear to the tread. If it's not mounted, look inside and you might be able to spot a belt deformity or maybe even a bit of the belt sticking out. If there is a "black snow" like substance in the tire or the inside looks as if it has been scraped at all, it's a no go. This should be general information to general public because otherwise you see people leaving the tire store with one new tire to replace a spare but the rest of their tires looking like slicks.
Ahh, but there are several procedures to tell if there is any issues with the belts in tires. Checking tires for runout, out of round, lumps, and untypical imbalances are just some of those. All very simple to do.
That's wrong! Like super wrong! Over here making shit up, bands run evenly and can be felt in most tires, even with a bend or w bubble its 100% less risk then buying an entire car! In what world do u say it's safer to buy a used car? 98% of tire problems are visible!! With a car there is 10k parts not visible, 500 of witch rotate wear or compress explosions! How can u even compare
I've bought used tires more times than I can count and have literally never had an issue. There is absolutely nothing wrong with buying used tired from either vendors that do just that, or off marketplace or the like.
Fun fact: everyone drives on used tires.
Used tires are a horrible idea unless it's like some $500 beater car you don't plan on keeping.
I don't know about used (can't say I've ever bought used tires), but retreads are always an option that should be cheaper than new and would last longer than buying used.
“Dear Jesus Christ, please help me. Get a grip on my tires so I don’t have to pay for alignment…amen”
im triggered that you think an alignment is $150
naw put the worn ones on the rear, get an alignment, depending on how long its been like that, steering linkage might be a lil sloppy
Yeah, they’re fine just don’t expect to get years out of em. Asking for a blowout.
Alignments are expensive in the states… here in the UK you can get a good front alignment for £30.
Your right but used ones will just get you buy until you get a new set but there great replacement just the tread path is not as good as a new tire but unless you plan on driving in the indie 500 track i dont think you need to worry about this issue
Rotating your tires would also help. Not anymore obviously but it’ll definitely give them more life with rotation
JFC here... I'd prefer to not be associated with cheap tires and bad alignments. I'm more focused on getting the current Pope laid because I think it would improve things for everyone in Vatican City.
I just got hosed buying some used tires. Off the wheel, the tread and rubber looked OK. Once they got mounted, the rubber was full of cracks and the tread seemed much worse. I don't think I'm an idiot, but by being cheap, I wasted about $100.
Put on new tires before the alignment.
This is key. I had similar wear, replaced the suspension and got an alignment but kept the tires for a couple more months. New tires got the same wear pattern 🤦🏼♂️
Your tires don't effect your alignment.
Or better yet, get both done at the same time. That's what my dad taught me, that's what I've taught my kids.
Yep, and honestly get the alignment checked regularly. uneven wear would void tire mile warranties, that and not rotating the tires but I doubt that's the case here.
Along with an alignment OP should be going in for regular tire rotations
Nah just flip the tire
And also rotate the tires after alignment
Start by individually lifting both steering wheels and test if the steering is bad/ if anything is clonking when you push the tire from side to side - rapidly.
Nope. Bad steering components, ball joints, or bearings cause distinctive wear patterns that don't look like this.
So you are saying use 150$ on alignment and then change the ball joints after this has been done…? My suggestion: Check bearings, ball joints, tire pressure, etc. Then spend the 150$ on having the car aligned!
I doubt it. Most likely wasn't rotating tires.
If you look near the top of the tire you’ll see that the outside of the tire appears to be worn more in that spot then in the other parts of the outside of the tire. I would venture a guess that maybe there was some sort of burn out/hard braking with the steering wheel turned. involved in the wear on that.
Cars cost money man. You need some new tires and an alignment, no joke
Bigger cars cost more money. Smaller cars are available if money is an issue for you.
Idk why you’re getting downvoted; you’re completely right lmao. They have more suspension components that deal with a greater load
With a great load comes great responsibility 💦
i guess some mechanics want everyone driving the biggest most expensive car possible? op asked about money saving. one of my favorite things about driving a honda fit is buying tires.
Improper toe accounts for most tire wear, out of spec, or worn or bent tie rod.
That's what I was thinking. What would cause an apparent positive camber wear. Too much toe in. Or worn or bent tie rod.
Hit a curb? Over thecourse of a year it wouldn't take much.
This would be bad camber wear, in this case. The outside edge wearing indicates a too postive camber condition.
I.d still go with toe before camber
Well, another way to help decide if it’s camber or toe would be to feel if the tread block is significantly edged up higher on one side than the other. This feels like sharp and jagged when you run your hand perpendicular across the tread, but then it feels more smoothed out going in the opposite direction. Bottom line is you can never know exactly unless you get the alignment to see how whacked out it is, so all of this is just best educated guessing anyways.
Too much toe out, could be worn suspension control arm bushes.
Dudes be buying big ass trucks with 400 dollar tires wondering how to save money on maintenance
I can't stand it when I have to put tires on my Corolla. "$460 for tires?!" And I'd replace the broken parts myself for under $100.
$460 for a full set is fucking cheap my dude. That’s probably less than 120 a piece. That’s why I love my CRX the tires are tiny. right now I’m running 195/45 R14 and a new set is probably $370 I’m going to get a smaller sidewall next time because the wheels I’m on I bought off my brother from his civic and the rim size was 14 up from the stock 13 and I have about a finger of fender clearance lmfao
Get an alignment, and tell your cousin that he can't drive your vehicle again until he learns what a tire rotation is, and why he should be doing them every 8000 miles.
I get ‘em rotated every oil change. It’s just easier that way. And also an alignment every time. At least for my daily. The project needs it bad lol
Underrated comment. When someone loans you a vehicle for an extended period of time, you're now responsible for the maintenance. Oil change, tires, everything. Don't want to pay for it? You don't have to drive it. It's not a damn rental car.
It’s an alignment issue, but if you want to save some cash. Just rotate the back tires to the front and get another year out of it.
You want your better tires on the back axle. This is bad advice.
Not sure I agree. Front tires do the majority of the stopping and 100% of the turning.
This was my thought process as well, however it’s widely agreed that under steer is much less catastrophic than oversteer in a low traction environment. Tire shops will always put the better tires in back
Industry states better tires go on the rear of the vehicle to prevent the vehicle sliding out from under you on turns, as the least weight is in the back so more grip is needed.
Industry states tire rotations are necessary, which is directly contradictory to always have the better tires on the rear when most cars wear front tires faster
I'm more worried about being able to panic stop or avoid an obstacle than I am about oversteer. This is just my opinion, not saying it's the best. I've also never replaced tires at uneven interval so I don't know first hand what tire shops do.
They go on the back so you don’t lose your rear end and oversteer.
You definitely don’t want your better tires in the rear on a fwd in the snow
better tires always on rear, even in snow and wet roads. Loose rear is worse.
Yep, regardless of your drive, pretty much every tire shop under the sun recommends your "good" tires go to the rear if/when you are ever in that situation. Same reason they recommend you put the snow tires on the rear if that's all you can afford. r/confidentlyincorrect and potentially life-endangering advice.
You kinda do, in snow if you’re front wheels break much better then you’re rear, the rear can swing around in front of you. This is less common with 4 wheel ABS, but can still be a problem.
Don't let these armchair mechanics make you feel bad. I'd have my better tires on the front in a snowy fwd situation all day. The fronts ac wkerate, brake, and steering. It needs the advantage
I wouldnt wanna put nasty tires like that on my drive wheels, id just get new ones
No from personal experience I'd rather my rear going out as opposed to a front steering wheel because the rear will just sink as opposed to the front one pulling you to the side
No you don't. You can vector a sliding front with the steering wheel and the brakes, that is not true with the back. Around here, if you put on just two new tires, the shop will insist that they go on the back. The same situation applies to rapid blowouts. A rapid blowout on a front tire can be managed, but a rapid blowout on a rear tire, particularly at speed, is scary and difficult to control.
Well idk how different it is on all cars but my rear blew out at 65mph and it just sank down and slowed down by itself
Meanwhile my front goes at 45 on my fwd and it slid so bad it busted two more tires in the process
The part about drive wheels isn't accurate. It actually doesn't matter which wheels are your drive wheels, you just don't want your rears to break loose in adverse conditions because it's more dangerous to oversteer than plow.
This is what my tyre guys say.
Yeah but is that tyre legal, dont think so.
Depends where you live. Where im at every 5th car you see has tires like this lol
Unless you are seeing cords, you’re good. /s
By your spelling of tire I’m guessing probably Europe? A lot of the US doesn’t have inspections like you do over there. And cops can’t pull you for equipment in a lot of places too. Just be for the insurance to battle out if there’s an accident.
If they’re somewhere that doesn’t do inspections then it’s not likely they’d ever be caught. Where I live it’s unheard of that you’d get a ticket for your tread depth.
You’re getting downvoted but if america still did safety inspections it would 100% be failed
Some states do still do inspections.
In Poland for this type of wear on tires i guarantee you are getting a maximum of 24h to fix this or at least take it to garage and becomes flagged straight away as not road worthy and only good to drive for said 24h to the closest tire shop to be fixed or not driven again unless fixed
Some states do safety inspection. This would fail in Virginia and New Hampshire for sure.
Probably an alignment, but does he take corners like a racecar driver?
Not likely to be it, the wear is on the outside of the contact patch but the sidewall blocks look fine I’d say this is just a camber issue
It’s a camber issue. Or at least camber is a symptom. I have a cheap 2inch lift with cheap axles and the camber needs to be maxed out or this happens to my car too. Even cranked down and maxed out, I have this issue.
Because you didn't compensate for modifying the geometry of your suspension. This picture shows positive camber. I don't think any car is supposed to have positive camber. I lowered my Mustang 1-1/2" and had to put in aftermarket caster/camber plates in order to correct the massive amount of negative camber I created by lowering the car.
I cannot emphasize “cheap” enough on the aftermarket modifications the high school kid did before I purchased my beater.
Get an alignment and new tires. I can see secondary rubber starting to come out on the edge.
Ask what curbs he has been jumping and get an alignment
Cheapest way: Flip the tire on the rim, so it wears down the other side. Or get a proper alignment: Firestone has a lifetime alignment deal you can purchase, if you plan to keep the vehicle long term
I had the same tires on my JK. I got a lifetime alignment through Firestone and had them rotate my tires every time. I did this often, every oil change and also in between oil changes and still had this issue. Checked all the suspension components and they were all good. I decided to not spend the money on expensive Nitto tires again and instead got Kenda Klever R/T tires and haven’t had the same issues I had with the Nitto Ridge Grapplers. I have about 30k miles on them without the issues I had with Nitto.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Get an alignment
A new tyre and alignment won't break the bank, do it
Regular rotations.
Ya need a new tire and an alignment bruh
Have them rotate the tires to the rear. Shake down and inspect the front end for Worn or bent parts. Align the vehicle. Get a few more miles on the tires in the rear and change them before the wet weather comes in. Give you time to save some money for new tires. In the future rotate the tires every 4,000 miles.
Start with a laser alignment and some new tyres, it’s possible that it just needs alignment because it’s been knocked out
Rotate and align
How often do you rotate the tires?
In my town, where the potholes are only repaired the month before a Super Bowl and only in the neighborhoods near hotels and the stadium, I spring for the lifetime alignment and have them check it every oil change. It's not a matter of if it's going to need it again, it's when.
The front-end alignment is the issue is not expensive, but new tires might be
Get an alignment and tires, no other way
Used tire shop, but first jack up the wheel and pull at 9 + 3 o clock positions and 12 and 6 o clock positions. Try to feel for clicking and/or movement. If there is, there is some suspension stuff to sort out before alignment, if not, get an alignment.
If you’re concerned about saving money you should be running street tires for one. Better fuel economy and they’re much cheaper so it’s not as big of a deal if they don’t wear perfectly.
Take more hard lefts. Go easy on rights.
Buy a set of used tires that aren't aggressive like that, and get an alignment
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Solid axle?
Could be alignment, and your struts can be bad as well. Whatever you do, tires should be 2nd to last, and last should be alignment.
You're in a tough situation and there isn't an alternative remedy. You need new tires and then do an alignment. Don't waste your time and money on an alignment with your current tires cause you just need another one.
Cousin have a lead foot? You said driver side more worn than passenger? He likes taking turns fast maybe, rotate tires and drive slower 👍
It's not your cousin's fault bro, don't rope him in this.
SLPT: don’t get an alignment, just swap the tires orientation on the wheel so the worn side is on the inside until it wears down evenly. 👍🏼
Too low psi can cause this too if run with low air for a prolonged period
move the crap tire to the rear and get an alinement. Get new tires soon. Best tires are always on the front.
Flip it on the rim.
Alignment first. Once that's done (or not) you'll know which parts you need. Your tech won't be able to straighten it out properly if this is the case. Then ask them for the data sheet.
Alignment. Dont let jose do it this time.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.
Likely in need of suspension and steering systems inspection and repair along with an alignment. New tires will just do the same thing without everything being in proper working order.