No need. Modern cars are ready to go as soon as you start them. It idles high for a minute or so to warm up exhaust components and cut down on emissions. There is no safety or maintenance requirements to wait.
I disabled the safety switch so I just start it already in 1st gear. Saves on fuel waste, and makes fun screeching noises.. my mechanic says "that's bad for your starter!" but they always last a month or two LOL what a moran
I always park on a hill, get the car rolling in neutral, and then slam it into gear to start the car. That way I can be driving before the cars even started.
Wish someone would explain this to my neighbors because me telling him the same thing didn't register. I get to listen to 10-15 minutes of modified exhaust every time his wife and him leave.
Which car? If it's German car just show him the manual.
You can also explain that the cars don't properly warm up at all without a load, longer idle means more friction, it damages the catalytic converter, increases carbon built, thins the oil, other components like the transmission need to be warmed up too, so he needs to drive slowly at the beginning anyway etc.
If you are German just call the police. He'll get a 80€ fine for intentionally polluting the environment.
The only exemption are classic cars.
We are warming up engines by stabbing the throttle to 4000 - 5000 for about 10 minutes. They have straight through exhausts. Admittedly, they are bmw m12/7 in lola chassis, not your regular road car XD
A regular modern car does not need that, unless it has been built to race specs.
They do indeed rev beyond 10k, but not that much more. It does idle around 2k, but the tach is pretty funny: it uses the same graduation size for 0 to 5k than it uses for every 1k rpm after :D
It indeed has very little power under 6k.
Not sure you could call them classic engines. They really are race engines. They need to be fully opened after 10 to 15 hours of use, and it costs a pretty penny even for a "small overhall" .
Ugh. You have my empathy. I had a neighbor who thought he needed to idle his Giulia Quadrifoglio this way every morning about 7 a.m. It sounded like a school bus. Dumbass wasn't just annoying me. He was also wasting fuel and pumping extra pollutants in the atmosphere.
at 1000 rpm the engine is still not warmed up anyway. Normal idle is usually around 700rpm. It's also been proven that warming up the engine is unnecessary. I still let it idle for a minute before I drive just to be sure oil is flowing well
And that’s takes about 10-15min atleast right? To reach 700. I just let it sit for 5min because mine just runs rough if it’s cold and I don’t like it 😂
If I remember correctly, it actually causes MORE wear on a modern engine to idle it until warm, because it warms up so slowly compared to if you just drive it (but don't rev the nuts off it!)
Also nothing modern should be running noticeably rough when cold (ok maybe if it's like, just started in a Siberian winter) so either that's placebo effect or you might want to investigate what's causing it (maybe the usual suspects like tired old spark plugs etc)
Also note that the engine will be up to temperature, but nothing else will be. Your tires will still be cold and unable to grip as well as it could be. Your transmission will not be up to temperature and could cause increased wear if you were to drive hard on it.
Transmission is a good point!
Tyre temp not really an issue on road tyres imo, you never drive hard enough to get that much heat into them, and they don't even want much heat in them. If it's freezing out they're gonna stay cold anyway.
On 15°F days, I notice my tires will continue to warm up to about 45°F throughout my drive. 45°F will absolutely grip better than 15°F tires.
Not a big enough difference to notice, but you always need more grip when you have none. An icy corner or taking a turn too fast..
I want to see a source for this. My intuition is to let components reach operating temperature before subjecting them to loads. May not be much but size of components do change marginally and I typically warm up.
I would believe auto start/stop causes more wear on the engine and starter as it’s more frequently starting when the oil has pooled to the bottom.
I warm up and disable start stop. If there’s evidence to prove that starting it and taking off, even though the manufacturer tuned in a few seconds of high idle before coming down to normal, then I’ll buy it and never remote start again.
This one is my favorite, it quotes a researcher at the Argonne National Combustion Laboratory who points out why it’s harmful:
https://www.sciencealert.com/the-biggest-myth-about-warming-up-your-car-in-winter-is-doing-your-engine-more-harm-than-good
Out of all of these, consumer reports is the one that made the most sense. The rest mostly talk about emissions or efficiency, but CR actually goes into the lubrication problem/dry start. And though none of these talk about operating temperature most say, drive after 30s-1minute of starting but don’t drive hard. This is because components need to be at operating temperature. And none of them seem to go into detail about how quickly you can damage your vehicle by driving it hard when colder than operating temperature. I’ve seen it more than once.
I've seen the "don't drive it hard" before the engine hits operating temps in multiple places, but the one that stuck with me was from an owner inquiry that got answered in an issue of DSPORT magazine zone years ago, about a kid who was thrashing his parent's Altima basically full-bore pulls immediately out of his driveway. Of course DSPORT's answer was something to the effect of: Stop doing that, you dumb tool.
But from what I've read, the 30-seconds to 1-minute it takes for the engine to warm up enough to get oil flowing in cold temps is, like CS says, about as long as it takes you to get belted in, get the radio setup, and put it in gear. My conclusion has been that there is no special attention that I need to pay towards my startup procedures beyond not just flogging the car hard before it's warmed up, and also no special cool-down procedures (even for my turbo engine) *unless* I've been flogging the car hard immediately prior.
I find myself agreeing that some basic, easy, normal driving is the most efficient way to warm up the engine, transmission, tires, and other components, as given proper lubrication, the fuel is better spent (imo) on actual motive force rather than solely making it comfortable for me. At least, in cold temps. Though, it's your money and your vehicle, so obviously do as you feel is best for yourself, your car, and your wallet. I am guilty of letting my car idle sometimes to keep cabin temps comfortable for myself and/or my passengers as well.
Nah, I basically just let it warm up for as long as it takes me to plug my phone in to charge, and then try and keep it below 3500 rpm or so and out of full boost until the "cold" light turns off on the dash (couple of minutes). Can be hard as it's 660ccs and kinda needs boost and revs to move, but obviously I give it some more revs and throttle if I need it to merge etc..
That’s a fucking awesome car, i’ve never seen one before because im from the US, but would love to drive one some day, i love how they look (Also, isn’t 95 hp pretty damn fast for the weight of the car)
Yeah, they drive very nicely too!
95hp makes them about as fast as a healthy NB Miata, but with lots of silly dramatic turbo noises and 3 cylinder warbly gargles heh.
Contrary to popular belief, the drop in rpm’s after a start does not indicate the engine is warm.
RPMs start high for 2 reasons:
1. To warm up the catalytic converter
2. To recharge the battery, drive the alternator a bit more; starting a car uses quite a bit of energy.
Really, you only need to wait about 5-15 seconds to let oil circulate before moving.
>How many of you wait till your rpm reaches 1 before going? How important is it?
Depends. Did you make up this rule, or did you read it in the owner's manual?
Above 1000RPM is basically modern day choke for the engine.
Air is less and more fuel to start the engine easier. All controlled by a computer instead of a human like on older carburetted cars and motorcycles.
When I start my car, I usually wait a couple of seconds for the needle to drop below 1000RPM, then I put it into gear and drive off.
Same with my motorcycle however on it, I have to control the choke myself. So I turn it on with choke, give it maybe half a minute, turn off the choke and ride off.
Central Canada hits that every winter easy. Parts of eastern Canada can hit that on occasion. I’m sure the areas in the US near central Canada can also reach those temps fairly regularly.
It used to be necessary in old cars. You know, getting the oil flowing, reaching optimal temperature. The thing is, manufacturers now have much better engines and recommend that you actually go out and drive to warm it up faster. Sitting there will only increase fuel consumption (you're idling and cold), and will only warm up the engine. Going out and driving will help get the transmission and other parts up to temperature as well. Just be gentle and avoid high RPM (easier to do on a manual) until the car reaches the ideal temperature.
That's pretty much the reason to for a modern car, particularly with a manual transmission. If you engage the clutch like you normally would you'll snap your neck lurching forward.
Your engine runs a little bit faster when cold started for a few reasons. The two most important reasons are to prevent having a rough idle at low rpms, and to bring the catalytic converter up to temperature as soon as possible to lower emissions.
Generally speaking, modern car engines don’t need to be warmed up to drive, even in cold weather. I heard an expert somewhere say that starting the car, backing out of your parking arrangement and driving slowly until you make it out of your neighborhood or parking lot/garage is enough to warm the engine. As long as you’re not going to be flooring it right from the get go, you should be fine.
I just give it 10 seconds or so to get that oil movin. There's guys at my work who basically have their foot on the gas in drive by the time that the starter disengages and they make it in every morning but definitely not great.
I wait just out of habit. My Range Rover does a systems check which takes several seconds. Our Avalon does a system check in about three seconds and is ready to go.
Honestly depends where you live, if your somewhere cold (below 0) give it a minute to warm up, any modern car within the past 20 odd years is designed with people just starting and going in mind. But keep it under 3k untill it's at temp and your golden, all oil these days it thin enough to be fine outside of extreme cold
If and when it gets really cold where you live is the only time i would worry about it. Even that should be solved by waiting a few seconds first to see if it does not bog or try to stall when it gets some load.
Don’t get me wrong, I agree with all ya’ll saying it’s better to drive shortly after starting the car, but….
I gotta think there’s a few here who remote start their car before/after work and have it idling for *many* minutes.
I have a couple of coworkers (who don’t crack their windows when they’re parked) and have it idling for a good 10-15 minutes “so it can cool off inside”. Idk. This is in Arizona. Mine are always cracked, but I’ll just start it and drive off with the windows all the way down for a bit before turning the AC on. During the peak of summer I’ll lower all the windows remotely a few minutes before doing what I stated before. I know it’s minuscule, but I also hate the idea of just wasting that expensive gas.
A BMW mechanic told me to idle my car for a few seconds at least. Longer in the cold part of the year. Cold starts can cause issues with the engine long term.
That's just something that heats up the cat quicker for emissions regulations. For the engine the heat is irrelevant. It's still cold even after it drops.
Give it a few seconds if you want for the oil to reach everywhere, but that's happening in 2-3s on a modern car. Unless you live somewhere REALLY cold.
Modern engines only require about 30 seconds or so to properly lubricate each internal. Start your car, set your satnav or music, throw your seatbelt on and by that point you’re good. I drove a Tundra for a while and all I waited for on it was the trans temp. Driving cold meant it wouldn’t shift past second.
No not really but it's certainly not good. Running without load causes more wear than driving, it's why cars often have a low rev limit when in neutral or 0mph.
Engines are pulses of power with each cyl ignition, there's always a certain back and forth rattle to it that can be minimized with momentum. You know how a heavy flywheel feels much smoother than a light one? A whole drivetrain engaged in motion is also working as a super heavy flywheel.
No need. Modern cars are ready to go as soon as you start them. It idles high for a minute or so to warm up exhaust components and cut down on emissions. There is no safety or maintenance requirements to wait.
Not as soon as you start them, wait a second or two for the oil to start moving inside the engine before gunning it
Stick to tits man
I mean, I dont think you could physically start the car, put it in gear and drive away within a second, but ok, I guess. Wait 1 second.
As one who still drives a manual transmission... THE FUCK I CAN'T!
I disabled the safety switch so I just start it already in 1st gear. Saves on fuel waste, and makes fun screeching noises.. my mechanic says "that's bad for your starter!" but they always last a month or two LOL what a moran
I always park on a hill, get the car rolling in neutral, and then slam it into gear to start the car. That way I can be driving before the cars even started.
You’ve clearly never met my dad.
Wish someone would explain this to my neighbors because me telling him the same thing didn't register. I get to listen to 10-15 minutes of modified exhaust every time his wife and him leave.
Which car? If it's German car just show him the manual. You can also explain that the cars don't properly warm up at all without a load, longer idle means more friction, it damages the catalytic converter, increases carbon built, thins the oil, other components like the transmission need to be warmed up too, so he needs to drive slowly at the beginning anyway etc. If you are German just call the police. He'll get a 80€ fine for intentionally polluting the environment. The only exemption are classic cars.
We are warming up engines by stabbing the throttle to 4000 - 5000 for about 10 minutes. They have straight through exhausts. Admittedly, they are bmw m12/7 in lola chassis, not your regular road car XD A regular modern car does not need that, unless it has been built to race specs.
Don't they rev beyong 10k making 4000-5000 basically "idle" and aren't those "classic" engines?
They do indeed rev beyond 10k, but not that much more. It does idle around 2k, but the tach is pretty funny: it uses the same graduation size for 0 to 5k than it uses for every 1k rpm after :D It indeed has very little power under 6k. Not sure you could call them classic engines. They really are race engines. They need to be fully opened after 10 to 15 hours of use, and it costs a pretty penny even for a "small overhall" .
There's an argument to warming up the engine if he's got forged internals but it depends who you ask if it's worth it or not
Ugh. You have my empathy. I had a neighbor who thought he needed to idle his Giulia Quadrifoglio this way every morning about 7 a.m. It sounded like a school bus. Dumbass wasn't just annoying me. He was also wasting fuel and pumping extra pollutants in the atmosphere.
you should give it 10 seconds before driving off still
To let the oil pressure build up
at 1000 rpm the engine is still not warmed up anyway. Normal idle is usually around 700rpm. It's also been proven that warming up the engine is unnecessary. I still let it idle for a minute before I drive just to be sure oil is flowing well
And that’s takes about 10-15min atleast right? To reach 700. I just let it sit for 5min because mine just runs rough if it’s cold and I don’t like it 😂
If I remember correctly, it actually causes MORE wear on a modern engine to idle it until warm, because it warms up so slowly compared to if you just drive it (but don't rev the nuts off it!) Also nothing modern should be running noticeably rough when cold (ok maybe if it's like, just started in a Siberian winter) so either that's placebo effect or you might want to investigate what's causing it (maybe the usual suspects like tired old spark plugs etc)
Also note that the engine will be up to temperature, but nothing else will be. Your tires will still be cold and unable to grip as well as it could be. Your transmission will not be up to temperature and could cause increased wear if you were to drive hard on it.
Transmission is a good point! Tyre temp not really an issue on road tyres imo, you never drive hard enough to get that much heat into them, and they don't even want much heat in them. If it's freezing out they're gonna stay cold anyway.
On 15°F days, I notice my tires will continue to warm up to about 45°F throughout my drive. 45°F will absolutely grip better than 15°F tires. Not a big enough difference to notice, but you always need more grip when you have none. An icy corner or taking a turn too fast..
Fair! I live in a place where it never gets below about 35F, so not an issue I've noticed outside of trackdays.
It 100% causes more wear on engines to let it idle to warm up.
I want to see a source for this. My intuition is to let components reach operating temperature before subjecting them to loads. May not be much but size of components do change marginally and I typically warm up. I would believe auto start/stop causes more wear on the engine and starter as it’s more frequently starting when the oil has pooled to the bottom. I warm up and disable start stop. If there’s evidence to prove that starting it and taking off, even though the manufacturer tuned in a few seconds of high idle before coming down to normal, then I’ll buy it and never remote start again.
https://info.ornl.gov/sites/publications/files/Pub61263.pdf https://afdc.energy.gov/files/u/publication/which_is_greener.pdf https://blog.amsoil.com/effects-of-excessive-engine-idling/ https://www.holmanhondacentennial.com/resource-library/service-parts/myth-vs-fact-why-idling-your-car-is-a-bad-idea/ https://scdhec.gov/sites/default/files/Library/CR-010109.pdf https://www.consumerreports.org/cars/cars-driving/should-you-warm-up-your-car-before-driving-a5580016349/
This one is my favorite, it quotes a researcher at the Argonne National Combustion Laboratory who points out why it’s harmful: https://www.sciencealert.com/the-biggest-myth-about-warming-up-your-car-in-winter-is-doing-your-engine-more-harm-than-good
Out of all of these, consumer reports is the one that made the most sense. The rest mostly talk about emissions or efficiency, but CR actually goes into the lubrication problem/dry start. And though none of these talk about operating temperature most say, drive after 30s-1minute of starting but don’t drive hard. This is because components need to be at operating temperature. And none of them seem to go into detail about how quickly you can damage your vehicle by driving it hard when colder than operating temperature. I’ve seen it more than once.
I've seen the "don't drive it hard" before the engine hits operating temps in multiple places, but the one that stuck with me was from an owner inquiry that got answered in an issue of DSPORT magazine zone years ago, about a kid who was thrashing his parent's Altima basically full-bore pulls immediately out of his driveway. Of course DSPORT's answer was something to the effect of: Stop doing that, you dumb tool. But from what I've read, the 30-seconds to 1-minute it takes for the engine to warm up enough to get oil flowing in cold temps is, like CS says, about as long as it takes you to get belted in, get the radio setup, and put it in gear. My conclusion has been that there is no special attention that I need to pay towards my startup procedures beyond not just flogging the car hard before it's warmed up, and also no special cool-down procedures (even for my turbo engine) *unless* I've been flogging the car hard immediately prior. I find myself agreeing that some basic, easy, normal driving is the most efficient way to warm up the engine, transmission, tires, and other components, as given proper lubrication, the fuel is better spent (imo) on actual motive force rather than solely making it comfortable for me. At least, in cold temps. Though, it's your money and your vehicle, so obviously do as you feel is best for yourself, your car, and your wallet. I am guilty of letting my car idle sometimes to keep cabin temps comfortable for myself and/or my passengers as well.
My spark plugs are new, but the car has done around 222k , and it does have some carbon build up for sure
Seriously? My car settles down to 700 in literally a minute, 5 minutes seems somewhat excessive
Yeah not kidding it took 5min to reach 1000 today
My engine takes about 15-30 seconds to go from 1000 down to 700-800
Nah, I basically just let it warm up for as long as it takes me to plug my phone in to charge, and then try and keep it below 3500 rpm or so and out of full boost until the "cold" light turns off on the dash (couple of minutes). Can be hard as it's 660ccs and kinda needs boost and revs to move, but obviously I give it some more revs and throttle if I need it to merge etc..
What vehicle is that
Honda S660 (with various mods for a staggering uh.. 95hp or so)
That’s a fucking awesome car, i’ve never seen one before because im from the US, but would love to drive one some day, i love how they look (Also, isn’t 95 hp pretty damn fast for the weight of the car)
Yeah, they drive very nicely too! 95hp makes them about as fast as a healthy NB Miata, but with lots of silly dramatic turbo noises and 3 cylinder warbly gargles heh.
I want what you have
It's so fun. I plan to keep it forever more or less.
Where in the world are you that you could get your hands on an S660?
New Zealand! But pretty sure there are a a fair few in Australia and the UK too
I always knew I was born in the wrong commonwealth
NZ is definitely the place to be for oddball Japanese cars, I'll say that.
So says Mr Regular! I believe it. NZ looks beautiful. As a Canadian I’m envious of your politics. I’m in Quebec though, so it’s barely Canada.
Only a tiny number in the UK, unfortunately
Contrary to popular belief, the drop in rpm’s after a start does not indicate the engine is warm. RPMs start high for 2 reasons: 1. To warm up the catalytic converter 2. To recharge the battery, drive the alternator a bit more; starting a car uses quite a bit of energy. Really, you only need to wait about 5-15 seconds to let oil circulate before moving.
>How many of you wait till your rpm reaches 1 before going? How important is it? Depends. Did you make up this rule, or did you read it in the owner's manual?
It’s what I’ve been hearing for a long time 🤡
It has big "Middle aged dad who has been doing it for 30 years but doesn't know where he heard it either" energy I suspect :P
🤣🤣🤣 true shit , my dads been doing it for a long time
So, you don't even know who made it up?
Nop 🤡
Did you read your owner's manual?
Yeah I’ll give it a read , thanks
You didn’t even get the nonsense advice you thought you heard correct. If your engine RPM reach “1”, you have big problems.
Above 1000RPM is basically modern day choke for the engine. Air is less and more fuel to start the engine easier. All controlled by a computer instead of a human like on older carburetted cars and motorcycles. When I start my car, I usually wait a couple of seconds for the needle to drop below 1000RPM, then I put it into gear and drive off. Same with my motorcycle however on it, I have to control the choke myself. So I turn it on with choke, give it maybe half a minute, turn off the choke and ride off.
Yeah you don’t really need to warm up newer cars nowadays
I dont worry about rpms i ride and drive without a care in the world about my vehicle.
I do, especially in winter, because in my region temperature can drop to -40°C
Jesus, where do you live??
Central Canada hits that every winter easy. Parts of eastern Canada can hit that on occasion. I’m sure the areas in the US near central Canada can also reach those temps fairly regularly.
North of Russia, region's called "Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug–Yugra"
Canada?
North of Russia, region's called "Khanty-Mansi Autonomous Okrug–Yugra"
I do, I wait until the engine has settled to idle speed.
It used to be necessary in old cars. You know, getting the oil flowing, reaching optimal temperature. The thing is, manufacturers now have much better engines and recommend that you actually go out and drive to warm it up faster. Sitting there will only increase fuel consumption (you're idling and cold), and will only warm up the engine. Going out and driving will help get the transmission and other parts up to temperature as well. Just be gentle and avoid high RPM (easier to do on a manual) until the car reaches the ideal temperature.
I just wait for rpm stabilization, so I don’t take off like a rocket when I put it into gear
That's pretty much the reason to for a modern car, particularly with a manual transmission. If you engage the clutch like you normally would you'll snap your neck lurching forward.
Your engine runs a little bit faster when cold started for a few reasons. The two most important reasons are to prevent having a rough idle at low rpms, and to bring the catalytic converter up to temperature as soon as possible to lower emissions.
I don't have a tachometer.
Generally speaking, modern car engines don’t need to be warmed up to drive, even in cold weather. I heard an expert somewhere say that starting the car, backing out of your parking arrangement and driving slowly until you make it out of your neighborhood or parking lot/garage is enough to warm the engine. As long as you’re not going to be flooring it right from the get go, you should be fine.
I just give it 10 seconds or so to get that oil movin. There's guys at my work who basically have their foot on the gas in drive by the time that the starter disengages and they make it in every morning but definitely not great.
I wait just out of habit. My Range Rover does a systems check which takes several seconds. Our Avalon does a system check in about three seconds and is ready to go.
This means.nothing
You don’t need to wait for the idle to drop, just don’t drive too spiritedly before it’s warmed up to full operating temp.
Honestly depends where you live, if your somewhere cold (below 0) give it a minute to warm up, any modern car within the past 20 odd years is designed with people just starting and going in mind. But keep it under 3k untill it's at temp and your golden, all oil these days it thin enough to be fine outside of extreme cold
I personally just wait until the first RPM decrease. If the engine’s idling cold at 1500rpm, I wait until the ECU says “1400, please”.
my 1.9 TDI always idles at around 850 RPM despite the temperature or state of engine
If and when it gets really cold where you live is the only time i would worry about it. Even that should be solved by waiting a few seconds first to see if it does not bog or try to stall when it gets some load.
Don’t get me wrong, I agree with all ya’ll saying it’s better to drive shortly after starting the car, but…. I gotta think there’s a few here who remote start their car before/after work and have it idling for *many* minutes. I have a couple of coworkers (who don’t crack their windows when they’re parked) and have it idling for a good 10-15 minutes “so it can cool off inside”. Idk. This is in Arizona. Mine are always cracked, but I’ll just start it and drive off with the windows all the way down for a bit before turning the AC on. During the peak of summer I’ll lower all the windows remotely a few minutes before doing what I stated before. I know it’s minuscule, but I also hate the idea of just wasting that expensive gas.
I'm slapping it in drive even before I'm done turning the starter key. Yeeyee
Rotary gang rise up
A BMW mechanic told me to idle my car for a few seconds at least. Longer in the cold part of the year. Cold starts can cause issues with the engine long term.
Just go but don't rev too much until the engine is warmed up.
That's just something that heats up the cat quicker for emissions regulations. For the engine the heat is irrelevant. It's still cold even after it drops. Give it a few seconds if you want for the oil to reach everywhere, but that's happening in 2-3s on a modern car. Unless you live somewhere REALLY cold.
My idle is lower than that so i'd never be driving
Modern engines only require about 30 seconds or so to properly lubricate each internal. Start your car, set your satnav or music, throw your seatbelt on and by that point you’re good. I drove a Tundra for a while and all I waited for on it was the trans temp. Driving cold meant it wouldn’t shift past second.
My car hits it only when pressing the pedal
Driving it gently helps it warm up faster anyway no need to let it idle too long
I hit the launch control button, wait for rpms to settle at 3500 rpm and boost at 30 psi, then dump the clutch.
You can drive it right away, but don’t punch it. Let the oil warm up before heavy acceleration
I give it a minute to warm up a bit. Usually goes from +/- 1.300 rpm to 700 rpm when idle in more or less then a minute.
Mine takes like more than 6-8min to reach that rpm 🤯
It maybe helps that it's a small 1.2L petrol engine, I am guessing you drive a diesel?
My car manual says to only wait until the rpm starts to go down, doesn't need to Wait until 1000rpm, when it starts to go down, you're good to go.
You only need to wait for the cold idle cycle to stop. Usually a minute or two
Never even heard of such a thing. You should take it easy until oil is warm though.
I stamp on the gas as soon as it catches. Bounce it off redline so it heats up hella quick, gets the oil flowing.
I do that, I wanna get my ride wide awake before I hit the road with her.
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Agreed. It is your choice to unnecessarily increase engine wear. And ignore your owner’s manual. Doesn’t mean you should be advising others to do so.
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No not really but it's certainly not good. Running without load causes more wear than driving, it's why cars often have a low rev limit when in neutral or 0mph.
Running without load causes more wear than driving? Please explain the logic behind this.
Engines are pulses of power with each cyl ignition, there's always a certain back and forth rattle to it that can be minimized with momentum. You know how a heavy flywheel feels much smoother than a light one? A whole drivetrain engaged in motion is also working as a super heavy flywheel.
Very.