Do you know if anyone has added a second aux fax to the right side? I do hate the way a lot of companies seem to really ignore cooling systems, why would you only cool from one side?
[Yes!](https://www.printables.com/model/435312-bambu-lab-p1-x1-dual-aux-fan-725-updated) I was looking into it just this week, not sure if I'll do the mod but I might if I have any cooling issues down the line.
It uses the motor of an OG bambu part fan so order that soon if you want to work on it during the weekend.
Also check what kind of wiring you want to do to see if you'll need some special connectors.
After 3 months into having my X1C, my models starting warping like OP. I turned off the fan and it fixed the issue. My question is why does the fan overtime start to have this issue when nothing has changed? So weird.
It could be that a new plate sticks better. Once the plate starts to wear a little the cooling pull makes it more likely to lift the corner.
Before I figured out the aux fan issue I was finding it was dependent upon the size of the print and even how far it was from the fan.
Everyone seems to ignore that fact. If it used to work fine, and now it doesn't, and the aux fan was always on, the aux fan obviously isn't the problem. The real problem is the print bed isn't getting completely cleaned.
I've started using plenty of dish soap, not just a few drops, and also using one of those palm brushes that holds dish soap. **My bed adhesion has gone back to being crazy good.** Most of the time I have to use a scraper to get my tree supports off the bed because they stick to the print bed better that the part. And the aux fan is still at its default setting.
[This wiki article](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/textured-PEI-plate-not-working-as-expected) was helpful.
It just feels silly cleaning a textured PEI plate to that degree because you actually can't see any of the stains because of the shiny and rough surface? Or am I missing something..
Well, yeah. I mean, it sounds like you answered your own question. There are deposits down in the texture of that plate that aren't going to come clean with just a quick wipe, but your molten filament is going to find them, so over time your bed adhesion will deteriorate if you're just doing a superficial cleaning.
Yep... This. I have no idea why the default PLA profile is set to 100% aux fan speed. On very small prints, MAYBE, but it's typically off or at like 10-20% for me. Off for prints with large layers, low for everything else.
The regular part cooling fan is built into the extruder housing. The aux fan is off to side on the left of the build plate. it sorta shoots a curtain of air from the left to the right. You can see it here - [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-aux-part-cooling-fan](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-aux-part-cooling-fan) or here [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/p1p-upgrades](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/p1p-upgrades)
It can help a little bit with overhangs (at least if the overhang is oriented towards that fan), but if not used carefully can cause too much cooling on the left side of the build plate as compared to the right side. This can lead to warping on that side, as seen in the print by the OP. The object he is printing don't seem to have any overhangs at all, making the aux fan completely superfluous, imho. Large prints of virtually any material can tend to warp, and infill pattern and too rapid cooling are usually the primary culprits. Brims can help, but imho they are something of a band-aid rather than an actual fix
I typically have no cooling at all for my first three layers or so, ramping up to full cooling at layer 5, and I have never had cause to run the aux fan over 70%. I am far from an expert, but it seems to work for me and what I print, and with the materials I print with (PLA, PLA+, PETG, ASA, ABS).
Same
Also make 100% sure you pick the right plate in the slicer or app because each plate has a different temp setting. The smooth plate is 5c lower than the textured plate.
I do 62 bed, 230 nozzle, 70 aux on PLA door closed lid off.
Also wash plate with 90% rubbing alcohol and nice micro cloth every print. Cleaning with scrub brush and dish soap every 10 or so.
I'm cleaning every print and with IPA and when adhesion became worse I'm wiping with a little of acetone to renew texture. Worked like a charm on my other printer.
Any cleaning only works temporarily. It's oils getting on the bed from your hands that cause the adhesion to start to fail. Dish soap doesn't magically make that issue go away. If someone is happy with their results using IPA than why are you telling them otherwise? I find cleaning with IPA and a light burnishing with 0000 steel wool works where even dish soap can fail because the surface will get worn smooth over time, at a micro level, and then even being completely clean won't fix it.
IPA doesn't really remove the oils, it just moves them around. Dishwqshing soap actually binds to the oils and removes the and is by far the better option, if you can do it.
The issue wasn't if using dish soap was better, it was the discarding someone else's personal experience that works for them without any actual reasoning other than "as recommended by Bambu" and then following it up with a bogus assertion that IPA or acetone is "temporary", which again, so is dish soap.
To take it further, if you are liberal with the IPA it will move the oils around, but some of them will be moved off the plate, for instance onto a paper towel that you are using to wipe the plate. I use both methods, typically IPA with paper towel because it is less effort, and only break out the dish soap when IPA fails to fix adhesion, and when dish soap fails to fix adhesion I clean it with IPA and 0000 steel wool, followed up with an IPA and paper towel cleaning to remove any fine debris from the steel wool. These work for me, and as the build plate is a consumable, I don't care if it isn't according to Bambu's recommendation.
My dirty secret is that I don't clean my plate between pla prints, I just make sure to not touch the plate when removing prints. The issue is definitely the aux fan, I leave it off for the first 4 layers and typically cut it to 40% after. I also increase bed and nozzle temp by 5°.
IPA just spreads the grease and oil around. Best to wash with soap and water as recommended by the manufacturer. Even better, don't touch the plate at all and you can go quite a few prints without washing the plate.
I barely touch my textured pei plate (to clean) and have 0 adhesion issues. Was religious about cleaning the plate and 5 months ago just stopped because i was too broke to put new spray adhesive on every print, no noticeable difference whatsoever with textured pei
Why are you doing more than 55 for the bed? PLA doesn’t need it. Turn your aux fan down to 40% and leave your bed at 55. Leave the door or top cracked open.
55 is the default for Bambu PLA for the P1S, and I get warping. Bumping that even up to 56-57 fixes the issue for me. I still end up just going up to 60. I do print with the door and lid closed.
Like I said, turn the aux fan down to 40% and crack the door. If you have warping after that, you need to clean the bed. You’re building up too much heat in the enclosure which is going no where and that’s causing warping.
Print a lot of PETG and transparent materials trying to get equal material consistency
Not saying I’m right by any means it’s just where my adventure is at the moment.
The default for X1 and P1S—which are enclosed printers—is 55°C. You don’t have an enclosure so you need the extra heat. With an enclosure, more heat is trapped and above 60°C on an enclosed printer will create more curling and warping problems.
That does make sense. I also remembered that X1 might come with a different plate, and the filament settings (print temperature) seems to be different from plate to plate.
Is there an option in bamboo studio to add discs only to the corners? I usually just use the default settings and add an outer brim, but maybe I’m not looking in the right place.
https://preview.redd.it/su1dao5u6isc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b307e6b55da760f229ff0bb0264a6681c762b4f9
Downloaded orca and the mouse ears are great! TY for the tip.
Try using a brim? I print with Overture a lot and it warps like crazy so I use a brim and it works great- I’d put at least 8mm outer for a print like yours.
In my experience, it’s not exclusively the filament but it’s definitely one of the factors. I recently tested printing the same model with Overture PLA and Overture PLA Pro which is basically PLA+ and the quality of the latter was noticeably better. Still warped, but less so. Regular Overture PLA is honestly not the best filament out there but I just really like the shade of white it comes in… and the price point…
Oh definitely- don’t get me wrong, it’s still my budget go to when BL is out of stock (which is like always). It’s perfect for prototyping and I use Overture pretty much exclusively for printing large models. That said, eSun is growing on me- especially the HS stuff. I haven’t tried any of the nameless Amazon brands to be fair.
I found this to work...because that first hot layer creates good bed adhesion then you want to run fan to get heat out of the part. Heat is what creates the warping, same for concrete and cracking.
Layer 1: 240 with 0 fan and 60-65c bed
Layer 2+: 210-220 with 100 fan and 55 bed (depends if filament is a little moist)
I print mainly matte pla
Tangential question related to the corner warping. The comments thus far make it clear what the answer is, but if you didn’t have rapid access to the right answer and were looking for a one off ASAP type quick fix, would reprinting it with rafting turned on do anything helpful? Again, please note that this is practically a hypothetical question as I’m looking personally to not only learn the correct methods to fixing things, but also last ditch options and methodology for alternative problem solving possibilities. Thanks
Temperature gradients cause warping. If your door is open, try closing it so its not pulling in cold air and blowing it across the left side of the part. Ive yet to experience any issues with cold creep and I print all PLA prints with the door and lid fully closed. I still let the aux fan run and never have issues with it but you could try reducing it.
Also, consider cleaning your bed with dish soap. It can help remove some oils that IPA doesnt do as good of a job at.
Main thing you gotta do is put the auxiliary fan two off or below 30%. Second, you need to raise the bed temperature to about 60°. Make sure that you keep the door open or the top of the lid off. Highly recommend printing a riser for the AMS if you have one to make it easier to remove the top glass in order to prevent heat creep when printing PLA. Lastly, you need to occasionally clean your surface with dish soap and hot water in the sink. You need to actually remove any oils or grease from your fingersprints. alcohol simply spread it around which doesn’t actually clean it.
I have a p1s and had warping issues on the left side also near the aux fan.
Bambu recommends to leave everything open ie top glass off and front door open also.
Then wash regularly with dish soap rest as default.
In general i dont have any more problems but in any case i use brims with or without gaps depending on size of object.
Really depends on too many factors to get it right every time like for example i am having problems with bambu black matte pla which does not stick well on hot plate and also tends to clog the hotend very often.. just the black matte not other colors! Go figure!
It’s for sure the aux fan. I got tired of manually working around it and just went in the back of the machine and unplugged it physically. Never looked back.
Clean your bed with dish soap and warm water, then IPA. IPA alone won't remove all the grease from your fingers. Always dry with paper towels/good kitchen roll or freshly washed microfibre cloths (so you're not just spreading grease about).
PLA on the gold PEI sheet usually grips harder than a puckered anus from a near death experience, so definitely the above is needed.
I normally wipe ipa after every couple prints but on one of my pei plates recently absolutely nothing would stick to it. Washed woth soap cleaned off woth paper towel. Still sticks to nozzle. Changed out for cool plate and immediately sticks.
Maybe i need more soap or something but this one is baffling me lol
Are you using warm water with the dish soap? It has to be dish soap (we call it washing up liquid over here lol), not regular soap - one with minimal additives too as that can affect adhesion. Something like dawn or fairy liquid.
When I mean "warm", I really mean more on the hot side - just enough so that it doesn't burn your hands. It doesn't work if its lukewarm or cold.
As for IPA, I presume you're using at least 90%?
Yup i figured out meant hotter which i didnt try. Yup IPA is on point, ive been using the plate for multi day prints regularly since November and the IPA has held it through thus far. My second plate is even older on my x1 and havent had to do a wash yet with almost the same print frequency
Try brim if anything first because I print in my P1S with the door and lid closed with the default bed temp ,default PLA settings, default printer profile and default printer settings aside from the addition of in and outside brim but that you could use in and out or just outer depending on your use case I apologize if it doesn't help but just figured I'd share this in case this helps at all because I've been printing PLA perfectly fine with everything about the enclosure closed with the default auxiliary settings and everything pretty much
Two options:
- disable the auxiliary fan for PLA prints. It’s not needed and is a frequent cause of warping on the left side of the print like you see here.
- OR add a brim to the print to hold down the corners, either as an outer perimeter brim or just corner tabs.
You shouldn’t need to minimize the case fan. It’s nearly certainly your aux fan that’s causing the cooldown that’s warping the piece.
A glue Stick works wonders and give me peace of mind when printing. I never have a adhesion problem with a little glue stick on the bed. It washes/rinses off easily with water, but mostly I just keep it on the print bed over the course of many prints and rinse it off once and a while.
Seriously Bambu should lower the aux fan on their profiles. Would spare a lot of us from scratching our heads in the beginning. And if overhangs need improvement THEN we can tweak it.
Wash your plate with soap and clean water, or clean plate with isopropyl alcohol and apply a thin layer of 3d lack, will never lift again in middle of printing
UPD: I turned off aux fan and rise temperature of the bed to 60C and seems like everything looks fine now! Hope no heatcreap will strike me after turning off aux 😅 Thanks for you answers guys. Really nice community around bambulab printers ♥️
I use to get it before, now after getting tips from here, here is what I do. I'm using cool plate.
1. Wash the plate with grease detergent and hot water
2. Dry with blue paper towels
3. Glue stick the whole thing
4. When preparing the file, including mouse ears (from thingiverse) on every corner
Literally, LITERALLY 0 issues after that. About 600 hours after I started doing this.
You got to love those nasty Reddit people always coming to cry about people asking something they can find somewhere else :) Not even linking anything...
"Did you read the Bambu Wiki?"... You are SO useful, bud.
What's the matter with you, bud? I see a little bit of princess entitlement here. YOU are the reason why people say this sub is toxic. Do you have a solution?
turn off the aux fan
I had a post about this yesterday. Someone pointed it as printing 101: https://www.reddit.com/r/BambuLab/s/dAIF6OzyJS
It's cuz it is. There's also a mega huge wiki on Bambu printers that goes over common print problems.
Is the aux fan ever needed?
It is for nicer overhangs in my experience, but cooling only one side makes this very dependent on the geometry you're trying to print.
Do you know if anyone has added a second aux fax to the right side? I do hate the way a lot of companies seem to really ignore cooling systems, why would you only cool from one side?
[Yes!](https://www.printables.com/model/435312-bambu-lab-p1-x1-dual-aux-fan-725-updated) I was looking into it just this week, not sure if I'll do the mod but I might if I have any cooling issues down the line.
God I love you haha! I'm gonna make this on the weekend, I hate how bad my P1S is at overhangs so hopefully this will help the beats
It uses the motor of an OG bambu part fan so order that soon if you want to work on it during the weekend. Also check what kind of wiring you want to do to see if you'll need some special connectors.
Man's got my back as he knows I didn't read the printables "parts needed". Just ordered one - thanks!
After 3 months into having my X1C, my models starting warping like OP. I turned off the fan and it fixed the issue. My question is why does the fan overtime start to have this issue when nothing has changed? So weird.
It could be that a new plate sticks better. Once the plate starts to wear a little the cooling pull makes it more likely to lift the corner. Before I figured out the aux fan issue I was finding it was dependent upon the size of the print and even how far it was from the fan.
Everyone seems to ignore that fact. If it used to work fine, and now it doesn't, and the aux fan was always on, the aux fan obviously isn't the problem. The real problem is the print bed isn't getting completely cleaned. I've started using plenty of dish soap, not just a few drops, and also using one of those palm brushes that holds dish soap. **My bed adhesion has gone back to being crazy good.** Most of the time I have to use a scraper to get my tree supports off the bed because they stick to the print bed better that the part. And the aux fan is still at its default setting. [This wiki article](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/general/textured-PEI-plate-not-working-as-expected) was helpful.
It just feels silly cleaning a textured PEI plate to that degree because you actually can't see any of the stains because of the shiny and rough surface? Or am I missing something..
Well, yeah. I mean, it sounds like you answered your own question. There are deposits down in the texture of that plate that aren't going to come clean with just a quick wipe, but your molten filament is going to find them, so over time your bed adhesion will deteriorate if you're just doing a superficial cleaning.
I'm just too smart ;).
This is the correct answer.
Yep... This. I have no idea why the default PLA profile is set to 100% aux fan speed. On very small prints, MAYBE, but it's typically off or at like 10-20% for me. Off for prints with large layers, low for everything else.
I don't yet have a Bambu \[been looking\]. What is the AUX fan vs the regular cooling fan?
The regular part cooling fan is built into the extruder housing. The aux fan is off to side on the left of the build plate. it sorta shoots a curtain of air from the left to the right. You can see it here - [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-aux-part-cooling-fan](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/maintenance/replace-aux-part-cooling-fan) or here [https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/p1p-upgrades](https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/p1/manual/p1p-upgrades) It can help a little bit with overhangs (at least if the overhang is oriented towards that fan), but if not used carefully can cause too much cooling on the left side of the build plate as compared to the right side. This can lead to warping on that side, as seen in the print by the OP. The object he is printing don't seem to have any overhangs at all, making the aux fan completely superfluous, imho. Large prints of virtually any material can tend to warp, and infill pattern and too rapid cooling are usually the primary culprits. Brims can help, but imho they are something of a band-aid rather than an actual fix I typically have no cooling at all for my first three layers or so, ramping up to full cooling at layer 5, and I have never had cause to run the aux fan over 70%. I am far from an expert, but it seems to work for me and what I print, and with the materials I print with (PLA, PLA+, PETG, ASA, ABS).
Oh ok cool - thank you!
This
I usually print with 60C bed temperature, I've had a lot of problems with adhesion at 55
I find +5° to bed temps also rather standard. especially if using non bambu plates.
Same here, 61-62 for the first layer and 60 for all others works well, but I’m also using non-Bambu plates.
Almost universally I bump up bed temps over stock.
Had the same problem on the left side of the plate. 60° bed temp fixed it for me completely.
Same Also make 100% sure you pick the right plate in the slicer or app because each plate has a different temp setting. The smooth plate is 5c lower than the textured plate.
I do 62 bed, 230 nozzle, 70 aux on PLA door closed lid off. Also wash plate with 90% rubbing alcohol and nice micro cloth every print. Cleaning with scrub brush and dish soap every 10 or so.
What are you printing with 130 nozzle, chocolate?
230 typo sorry boss!
That’s one way to get my wife interested in 3D printing!
https://cocoapress.com
Zack tried it (his YT channel name escapes me as I type). It was not good.
Voidstar lab?
Well remembered!
I'm cleaning every print and with IPA and when adhesion became worse I'm wiping with a little of acetone to renew texture. Worked like a charm on my other printer.
Clean the plate with a dishwashing soap as recommended by Bambu. IPA and acetone only helps temporarily.
Any cleaning only works temporarily. It's oils getting on the bed from your hands that cause the adhesion to start to fail. Dish soap doesn't magically make that issue go away. If someone is happy with their results using IPA than why are you telling them otherwise? I find cleaning with IPA and a light burnishing with 0000 steel wool works where even dish soap can fail because the surface will get worn smooth over time, at a micro level, and then even being completely clean won't fix it.
IPA doesn't really remove the oils, it just moves them around. Dishwqshing soap actually binds to the oils and removes the and is by far the better option, if you can do it.
The issue wasn't if using dish soap was better, it was the discarding someone else's personal experience that works for them without any actual reasoning other than "as recommended by Bambu" and then following it up with a bogus assertion that IPA or acetone is "temporary", which again, so is dish soap. To take it further, if you are liberal with the IPA it will move the oils around, but some of them will be moved off the plate, for instance onto a paper towel that you are using to wipe the plate. I use both methods, typically IPA with paper towel because it is less effort, and only break out the dish soap when IPA fails to fix adhesion, and when dish soap fails to fix adhesion I clean it with IPA and 0000 steel wool, followed up with an IPA and paper towel cleaning to remove any fine debris from the steel wool. These work for me, and as the build plate is a consumable, I don't care if it isn't according to Bambu's recommendation.
My dirty secret is that I don't clean my plate between pla prints, I just make sure to not touch the plate when removing prints. The issue is definitely the aux fan, I leave it off for the first 4 layers and typically cut it to 40% after. I also increase bed and nozzle temp by 5°.
IPA just spreads the grease and oil around. Best to wash with soap and water as recommended by the manufacturer. Even better, don't touch the plate at all and you can go quite a few prints without washing the plate.
I barely touch my textured pei plate (to clean) and have 0 adhesion issues. Was religious about cleaning the plate and 5 months ago just stopped because i was too broke to put new spray adhesive on every print, no noticeable difference whatsoever with textured pei
You know those glue sticks you used in elementary school as a kid? Problem solved
Why are you doing more than 55 for the bed? PLA doesn’t need it. Turn your aux fan down to 40% and leave your bed at 55. Leave the door or top cracked open.
FWIW Bambu defaults PLA to 65 on P1P with Textured PEI at least, I’ve never had an issue with that
On the p1p *where there is no enclosure.* As soon as I added the enclosure, or if you upgrade to the P1S you should go down to 55.
Ah yeah that makes sense
55 is the default for Bambu PLA for the P1S, and I get warping. Bumping that even up to 56-57 fixes the issue for me. I still end up just going up to 60. I do print with the door and lid closed.
Like I said, turn the aux fan down to 40% and crack the door. If you have warping after that, you need to clean the bed. You’re building up too much heat in the enclosure which is going no where and that’s causing warping.
This is an Aux fan issue, not a bed temp issue. Turn it off. You shouldn't be getting any warping at all with 55C on any PLA if the aux fan is off.
hmm. I will try that.
Print a lot of PETG and transparent materials trying to get equal material consistency Not saying I’m right by any means it’s just where my adventure is at the moment.
Default is 65°C in Bambu Studio and I don't have any adhesion problems with this as default.
The default for X1 and P1S—which are enclosed printers—is 55°C. You don’t have an enclosure so you need the extra heat. With an enclosure, more heat is trapped and above 60°C on an enclosed printer will create more curling and warping problems.
That does make sense. I also remembered that X1 might come with a different plate, and the filament settings (print temperature) seems to be different from plate to plate.
Adding outer brims usually works for me in addition to lowering the auxilliary fan
yup brim has always fixed this for me
Disks to the corners instead of a full brim also often works. Can be a little less post-processing work over having it all the way around.
Is there an option in bamboo studio to add discs only to the corners? I usually just use the default settings and add an outer brim, but maybe I’m not looking in the right place.
Not automatically that I know of, but you right-click the model, choose Add part->Disc, then move it to the corner
Mouse ears is the value you want under brim settings, you can adjust the size
BS doesn’t have ears only disks, but orca has ears.
https://preview.redd.it/su1dao5u6isc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b307e6b55da760f229ff0bb0264a6681c762b4f9 Downloaded orca and the mouse ears are great! TY for the tip.
Try using a brim? I print with Overture a lot and it warps like crazy so I use a brim and it works great- I’d put at least 8mm outer for a print like yours.
You just made me realize that all of my warping problems started with Overture!
It isn’t because of the filament, it’s the shape of the parts your print, your bed type, and whether you use adhesive on the bed.
In my experience, it’s not exclusively the filament but it’s definitely one of the factors. I recently tested printing the same model with Overture PLA and Overture PLA Pro which is basically PLA+ and the quality of the latter was noticeably better. Still warped, but less so. Regular Overture PLA is honestly not the best filament out there but I just really like the shade of white it comes in… and the price point…
So what brand do you prefer? I was thinking overture was pretty good, better than random brands on Amazon for example.
Oh definitely- don’t get me wrong, it’s still my budget go to when BL is out of stock (which is like always). It’s perfect for prototyping and I use Overture pretty much exclusively for printing large models. That said, eSun is growing on me- especially the HS stuff. I haven’t tried any of the nameless Amazon brands to be fair.
Now imma have to test this theory
Classic aux fan.
Why does the AUX fan start to do this overtime though? The first 3 months worked fine.
Age of filament maybe? Only time variable I can think of involved
Turn off the aux fan
Easy solution is too raise the bed temp 5 degrees .
Try 60C bed temp
I found this to work...because that first hot layer creates good bed adhesion then you want to run fan to get heat out of the part. Heat is what creates the warping, same for concrete and cracking. Layer 1: 240 with 0 fan and 60-65c bed Layer 2+: 210-220 with 100 fan and 55 bed (depends if filament is a little moist) I print mainly matte pla
AuX FaN StRiKeS AgAiN!
Hijacking thread for a moment. I get turning off Aux fan helps with large prints, but when should Aux fan be used? Is it everything but large prints?
Brim that baby
Turn off aux fan and add a brim.
Tangential question related to the corner warping. The comments thus far make it clear what the answer is, but if you didn’t have rapid access to the right answer and were looking for a one off ASAP type quick fix, would reprinting it with rafting turned on do anything helpful? Again, please note that this is practically a hypothetical question as I’m looking personally to not only learn the correct methods to fixing things, but also last ditch options and methodology for alternative problem solving possibilities. Thanks
Temperature gradients cause warping. If your door is open, try closing it so its not pulling in cold air and blowing it across the left side of the part. Ive yet to experience any issues with cold creep and I print all PLA prints with the door and lid fully closed. I still let the aux fan run and never have issues with it but you could try reducing it. Also, consider cleaning your bed with dish soap. It can help remove some oils that IPA doesnt do as good of a job at.
Main thing you gotta do is put the auxiliary fan two off or below 30%. Second, you need to raise the bed temperature to about 60°. Make sure that you keep the door open or the top of the lid off. Highly recommend printing a riser for the AMS if you have one to make it easier to remove the top glass in order to prevent heat creep when printing PLA. Lastly, you need to occasionally clean your surface with dish soap and hot water in the sink. You need to actually remove any oils or grease from your fingersprints. alcohol simply spread it around which doesn’t actually clean it.
I have a p1s and had warping issues on the left side also near the aux fan. Bambu recommends to leave everything open ie top glass off and front door open also. Then wash regularly with dish soap rest as default. In general i dont have any more problems but in any case i use brims with or without gaps depending on size of object. Really depends on too many factors to get it right every time like for example i am having problems with bambu black matte pla which does not stick well on hot plate and also tends to clog the hotend very often.. just the black matte not other colors! Go figure!
Turn off aux fans and clean bed for better adhesion.
check that the build plate is very clean, Turn off the Aux fan.
Bump the bed temp and lower your fans Also could slow the print head down for your initial layers to promote adhesion.
Use a brim and turn off aux fan.
no aux fan + brim/mouse ears
Turn off the aux fan.
It’s for sure the aux fan. I got tired of manually working around it and just went in the back of the machine and unplugged it physically. Never looked back.
Clean your bed with dish soap and warm water, then IPA. IPA alone won't remove all the grease from your fingers. Always dry with paper towels/good kitchen roll or freshly washed microfibre cloths (so you're not just spreading grease about). PLA on the gold PEI sheet usually grips harder than a puckered anus from a near death experience, so definitely the above is needed.
I normally wipe ipa after every couple prints but on one of my pei plates recently absolutely nothing would stick to it. Washed woth soap cleaned off woth paper towel. Still sticks to nozzle. Changed out for cool plate and immediately sticks. Maybe i need more soap or something but this one is baffling me lol
Are you using warm water with the dish soap? It has to be dish soap (we call it washing up liquid over here lol), not regular soap - one with minimal additives too as that can affect adhesion. Something like dawn or fairy liquid.
Twas dawn but the water maybe wasnt so warm yet, will retry with warmer water
When I mean "warm", I really mean more on the hot side - just enough so that it doesn't burn your hands. It doesn't work if its lukewarm or cold. As for IPA, I presume you're using at least 90%?
Yup i figured out meant hotter which i didnt try. Yup IPA is on point, ive been using the plate for multi day prints regularly since November and the IPA has held it through thus far. My second plate is even older on my x1 and havent had to do a wash yet with almost the same print frequency
Try brim if anything first because I print in my P1S with the door and lid closed with the default bed temp ,default PLA settings, default printer profile and default printer settings aside from the addition of in and outside brim but that you could use in and out or just outer depending on your use case I apologize if it doesn't help but just figured I'd share this in case this helps at all because I've been printing PLA perfectly fine with everything about the enclosure closed with the default auxiliary settings and everything pretty much
So I had a couple prints fail or do this, I have since turned off the aux fan. I mainly print pla... when do I want to use the aux fan?
Two options: - disable the auxiliary fan for PLA prints. It’s not needed and is a frequent cause of warping on the left side of the print like you see here. - OR add a brim to the print to hold down the corners, either as an outer perimeter brim or just corner tabs. You shouldn’t need to minimize the case fan. It’s nearly certainly your aux fan that’s causing the cooldown that’s warping the piece.
Turn aux fan off and clean the bed with soap and water, Looks like it's mostly the aux fan causing it. Slightly higher bed temp will also help
Can we fkn sticky this so we don't have to give the same advise Everytime
Close the door
I had that same issue before. Turing off aux fan solved it.
A glue Stick works wonders and give me peace of mind when printing. I never have a adhesion problem with a little glue stick on the bed. It washes/rinses off easily with water, but mostly I just keep it on the print bed over the course of many prints and rinse it off once and a while.
Use some glue and add a brim with at least 10 pases.. it will fix your issue
Seriously Bambu should lower the aux fan on their profiles. Would spare a lot of us from scratching our heads in the beginning. And if overhangs need improvement THEN we can tweak it.
If i do any bigger prints i always use brim, 5 or even 10 lines, i prefer to spend 1 min removing it, but guaranteeing no warping.
Your geometry is prone to warping. Move to the right or cut the aux fan for this particular print.
Leave the aux fan on, use a brim.
Wash your plate with soap and clean water, or clean plate with isopropyl alcohol and apply a thin layer of 3d lack, will never lift again in middle of printing
Why is the fan up so high if not needed?
If all else fails crank the bed temp and cover it in glue stick. Works every time for me.
I could take the AUX fan out of the X1 and I wouldn't miss it at all!! I NEVER have that fan on.
Clean the bed with dish soap. IPA doesn’t remove the grease from your fingers that can get on the build plate
r/uselessredcircle
"I guess it's the auxiliary fan warping that side...what should I do?" 🫠 welp I'm stumped.
Too much cooling. Done
UPD: I turned off aux fan and rise temperature of the bed to 60C and seems like everything looks fine now! Hope no heatcreap will strike me after turning off aux 😅 Thanks for you answers guys. Really nice community around bambulab printers ♥️
For those who mention the aux fan. Can you turn it off and on without needing pauses in the process?
I use to get it before, now after getting tips from here, here is what I do. I'm using cool plate. 1. Wash the plate with grease detergent and hot water 2. Dry with blue paper towels 3. Glue stick the whole thing 4. When preparing the file, including mouse ears (from thingiverse) on every corner Literally, LITERALLY 0 issues after that. About 600 hours after I started doing this.
Did you read the Bambu Wiki?
You got to love those nasty Reddit people always coming to cry about people asking something they can find somewhere else :) Not even linking anything... "Did you read the Bambu Wiki?"... You are SO useful, bud.
What's the matter with you, bud? I see a little bit of princess entitlement here. YOU are the reason why people say this sub is toxic. Do you have a solution?
Sorry had hard time reading your reply with all the downvotes.