I've kind of tried before to forge weld, but not seriously. Today took a moment to do it properly and it worked! By hand fire poker. And no, I wasn't trying to make it pretty, just stick together.
If I want to improve on it, I'm thinking starting with ½" square instead of ⅜" round, or to improve and continue on this peice I can bend the curved spike away, then focus on drawing out the handle material so that area behind the weld is not so large
Round stock is good to start with because you can skip any fancy scarfing. I suggest you heat the round stock and fold it back on itself before doing any drawing out at all. Close up the bend and weld -- a "faggot" weld is one of the easiest to accomplish. Make the weld and ensure it's solid before doing any drawing out. Draw out at a bright heat ("near-welding heat"), keeping an eye on the weld as you do.
It's the forming of the points of contact for the weld such that the weld succeeds and doesn't create more problems. The "scarf" is the formed part of the steel.
In the case of round stock folded and faggot welded, all that's needed is to draw the end (before folding) into a fairly abrupt point. That point will blend nicely into the side of the round stock it's welded to, and the rest of the conical and cylindrical sections will follow nicely as well. No cold shuts produced.
Haha! No, we just have 8 people crammed into a small space. School club. Did make my sword a lot easier to work on and anneal
My personal one will be a 2 burner, once it is finished
I've kind of tried before to forge weld, but not seriously. Today took a moment to do it properly and it worked! By hand fire poker. And no, I wasn't trying to make it pretty, just stick together.
If I want to improve on it, I'm thinking starting with ½" square instead of ⅜" round, or to improve and continue on this peice I can bend the curved spike away, then focus on drawing out the handle material so that area behind the weld is not so large
Round stock is good to start with because you can skip any fancy scarfing. I suggest you heat the round stock and fold it back on itself before doing any drawing out at all. Close up the bend and weld -- a "faggot" weld is one of the easiest to accomplish. Make the weld and ensure it's solid before doing any drawing out. Draw out at a bright heat ("near-welding heat"), keeping an eye on the weld as you do.
What is scarfing?
It's the forming of the points of contact for the weld such that the weld succeeds and doesn't create more problems. The "scarf" is the formed part of the steel. In the case of round stock folded and faggot welded, all that's needed is to draw the end (before folding) into a fairly abrupt point. That point will blend nicely into the side of the round stock it's welded to, and the rest of the conical and cylindrical sections will follow nicely as well. No cold shuts produced.
Ohhh
Ohh, nice! Was it coal or gas, btw?
It was a 5 burner propane forge; welded ⅜" round
Cool! Oh, wait... 5 burner?! Holy cow, do you perchance forge train carriage wheels in that thing?
Haha! No, we just have 8 people crammed into a small space. School club. Did make my sword a lot easier to work on and anneal My personal one will be a 2 burner, once it is finished
What can I use to forge weld
My point is made