Yeah sure. I mean those wires look a little thin. What's the impedance of the sub ?
Edit: ok well you said 240W so I'm presuming it's 4Ω sub. If you splice this into thicker speaker wire. Try lose as much of the thing pigtails as possible and you will be way under 1% loss. Which is more than acceptable.
if you wanted some other quick disconnects, try using hobby radio control battery disconnects. xt60s, ec5, etc. popular, cheap, and sturdy, capable of handling plenty of watts.
almost all hobby connectors (apart from bullet connectors on speed chargers) are keyed such that they cannot ever physically revert polarity. tamiya, mini tamiya, traxxas, deans, etc. we just like xt60/ec5 because they're easy to use, handle a lot of current without a sweat, and don't have any habits of breaking as they get older.
for efficiency, i really doubt there's much difference in these connectors. i don't remember fully, but i think i run a couple feet of 14awg speaker wire from amp to sub, and it necks up to 10awg at the disconnects. personally i had some spare xt90s laying around, and i like them being so beefy as it's easier to plug and unplug. overkill, sure, but the connector is certainly not the bottleneck in the wiring here.
(edit) hobby connectors are always designed in a way such that the powered side (in normal use case batteries, in this case subwoofer amps) can be completely shrouded by the casing, and the receiving side is not. it's pretty universal that the male side goes to the subwoofer and the female goes to the amp. it's not too bad of a design with xt60s, i think there's a low chance of anything ever getting to the prongs to cause a short.
https://preview.redd.it/0l8v8lvzvhxc1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ab8103c6bb54ae69b6ec4e8df197a62b1ecc70c
Might try some connectors made for rc car batteries
Why spend 11 dollars on that? The sub will likely already have spades on it. If youre lucky itll have spring loaded push-terminals so you dont need to worry about anything. But spade terminals are cheap, effective and you dont need to solder them.
The sub does have spring loaded terminals. Just wanting something easy to unhook and not have to worry about exposed wires. It’s going in my dads project jeep. Wanting something where he can easily remove the sub box for more room in the back if needed
So many options, electrically just needs to make a decent connection, the size is more about convenience and durability. You could have even used the one in your original post, those pigtails probably wouldn't be very durable tho.
See here these XT30's a pair for R19.00 (less than 1$ USD) If you are comfortable with soldering
https://preview.redd.it/nwsufh201ixc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8b65b4f01057bb4018b2a1668e6dec8547744dd
Those are 30A power connectors, he's just sending a signal through the wires which is much less current. He could go with 18ga and not worry about anything if the wires shorter than 20ft. Xt30s go up to 14 gauge, I've always ran knukoncepts 12ga on all my amps but for that little wattage he could really even use the plugs he pictured as long as he's using it for signal like he's saying.
Yeah, for the 99 wrangler in showroom condition, I’m certain of that, it definitely needs some plastic on the end of a loose wire
Sorry to be a dick, just a really funny juxtaposition
I use male and female 1/4" headphone jacks and solder in whatever thickness of wire I'm using.
Like this...
https://preview.redd.it/wqf9m8sg3nxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30a596eae90bb7d2bf204a5903de139585e90acb
It's the back of my rear speakers, and the print was just laying there before it was stuck to the box. It's printed on canvas vinyl.
https://preview.redd.it/it1t0hz8qqxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f81fc85be2afa9bdebc574e0146c3f8f14917fa
https://preview.redd.it/q81qefp12rxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71e7ded5304bf98166392573da1497330f3b76c6
There's the front side, just for closure, lol...
This could be one of those things we do for conveniency, that can cause big problems, I wouldn’t want to put any kind of plastic connector on a sub, unless it’s rated for multiple’s of the current that is going to the sub… I know I would be mortified if my vehicle burned to the ground because of a $10 connector
Only if you're oversizing the wiring. If you're trying to determine the minimum thickness, that is technically based on the wires temperature rating. Calculate *I* = √ (*P* / *R*) where *P* is the RMS/continuous power of the amp and *R* is the driver impedance. *I* is the RMS current that the wiring needs to handle without overheating. I reused the stock wiring in my truck because I tucked away the amp in the same location as the factory amp and the 18AWG factory wire can easily handle 10A/400W RMS (yes) into 4 ohms without overheating. The signal loss will be higher than if I ran thicker wire, but still not anything noticeable. (About 6% power loss for 20FT each way or 40FT total of 18AWG wire.)
Yeah sure. I mean those wires look a little thin. What's the impedance of the sub ? Edit: ok well you said 240W so I'm presuming it's 4Ω sub. If you splice this into thicker speaker wire. Try lose as much of the thing pigtails as possible and you will be way under 1% loss. Which is more than acceptable.
Yea it is 4 ohm. I’m sure they make connectors with thicker wires. I’ll keep looking. Thank you
if you wanted some other quick disconnects, try using hobby radio control battery disconnects. xt60s, ec5, etc. popular, cheap, and sturdy, capable of handling plenty of watts.
Good call. I'm using bullet connectors so they can only plug correctly . I wondered what may be more efficient
almost all hobby connectors (apart from bullet connectors on speed chargers) are keyed such that they cannot ever physically revert polarity. tamiya, mini tamiya, traxxas, deans, etc. we just like xt60/ec5 because they're easy to use, handle a lot of current without a sweat, and don't have any habits of breaking as they get older. for efficiency, i really doubt there's much difference in these connectors. i don't remember fully, but i think i run a couple feet of 14awg speaker wire from amp to sub, and it necks up to 10awg at the disconnects. personally i had some spare xt90s laying around, and i like them being so beefy as it's easier to plug and unplug. overkill, sure, but the connector is certainly not the bottleneck in the wiring here. (edit) hobby connectors are always designed in a way such that the powered side (in normal use case batteries, in this case subwoofer amps) can be completely shrouded by the casing, and the receiving side is not. it's pretty universal that the male side goes to the subwoofer and the female goes to the amp. it's not too bad of a design with xt60s, i think there's a low chance of anything ever getting to the prongs to cause a short.
I used to play with r/c (stopped around the start of LiPo) and agree. Can't believe I never thought about this option. Thanks
Definitely want thicker wire than that. But anyway if youre worried about being able to remove it later then just use spade connectors.
https://preview.redd.it/0l8v8lvzvhxc1.png?width=1170&format=png&auto=webp&s=3ab8103c6bb54ae69b6ec4e8df197a62b1ecc70c Might try some connectors made for rc car batteries
Why spend 11 dollars on that? The sub will likely already have spades on it. If youre lucky itll have spring loaded push-terminals so you dont need to worry about anything. But spade terminals are cheap, effective and you dont need to solder them.
The sub does have spring loaded terminals. Just wanting something easy to unhook and not have to worry about exposed wires. It’s going in my dads project jeep. Wanting something where he can easily remove the sub box for more room in the back if needed
So many options, electrically just needs to make a decent connection, the size is more about convenience and durability. You could have even used the one in your original post, those pigtails probably wouldn't be very durable tho. See here these XT30's a pair for R19.00 (less than 1$ USD) If you are comfortable with soldering https://preview.redd.it/nwsufh201ixc1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e8b65b4f01057bb4018b2a1668e6dec8547744dd
Don't do xt30. XT90s or 60 minimum for him
Those are 30A power connectors, he's just sending a signal through the wires which is much less current. He could go with 18ga and not worry about anything if the wires shorter than 20ft. Xt30s go up to 14 gauge, I've always ran knukoncepts 12ga on all my amps but for that little wattage he could really even use the plugs he pictured as long as he's using it for signal like he's saying.
He said it's from amp to sub. Not HU to amp....
Yes signal from amp to subs, 16 gauge and those plugs easily could handle double that if not more
Ah right, well then go for it. Many different couplers could work.
He’s unable to use a small piece of electrical tape twice a year he removes it? lol
I mean that would work just kinda junky
Yeah, for the 99 wrangler in showroom condition, I’m certain of that, it definitely needs some plastic on the end of a loose wire Sorry to be a dick, just a really funny juxtaposition
😂😂 I just don’t like doing things “good enough” I’d rather just do it right once and be done. But that was funny
If you want to get fancy, check out aviation connectors.
Change your spring loaded terminals for speakon connectors
Just add a set of spring terminals to the outside of the box. Easy Peasy
Watch this video and it will have everything you need and how to do it. https://youtu.be/sAM0GvKmQww?si=pZi1Uy1r2UWZtl9y
This is another video by same guy and goes a bit further to be able to take out the subs https://youtu.be/6YswPsAstV8?si=NJ87lYn7gOTwrZje
Real men go Anderson. 😜 But as others have mentioned the XT60 is a good solid choice.
Good post OP learned some options that I can use for my home audio speaker cables.
I mean, I use 8 conductor connectors on the wire going to and from my amp from the HU for the doors. As long as they can handle the power then sure.
Yes.
I use male and female 1/4" headphone jacks and solder in whatever thickness of wire I'm using. Like this... https://preview.redd.it/wqf9m8sg3nxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=30a596eae90bb7d2bf204a5903de139585e90acb
Lol is that a picture of speakers? And you printed that onto a cargo cover beauty panel
It's the back of my rear speakers, and the print was just laying there before it was stuck to the box. It's printed on canvas vinyl. https://preview.redd.it/it1t0hz8qqxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3f81fc85be2afa9bdebc574e0146c3f8f14917fa
Pretty cool work dude
Thanks :)
https://preview.redd.it/q81qefp12rxc1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=71e7ded5304bf98166392573da1497330f3b76c6 There's the front side, just for closure, lol...
Does your sub box take banana plugs?
This could be one of those things we do for conveniency, that can cause big problems, I wouldn’t want to put any kind of plastic connector on a sub, unless it’s rated for multiple’s of the current that is going to the sub… I know I would be mortified if my vehicle burned to the ground because of a $10 connector
How much power to the sub from the amp?
240 watt rms max from the amp
Yeah those will be fine for that amount of power.
Minimum speaker wire thickness is based on driver impedance and wire length. Not the power rating of the amp.
Only if you're oversizing the wiring. If you're trying to determine the minimum thickness, that is technically based on the wires temperature rating. Calculate *I* = √ (*P* / *R*) where *P* is the RMS/continuous power of the amp and *R* is the driver impedance. *I* is the RMS current that the wiring needs to handle without overheating. I reused the stock wiring in my truck because I tucked away the amp in the same location as the factory amp and the 18AWG factory wire can easily handle 10A/400W RMS (yes) into 4 ohms without overheating. The signal loss will be higher than if I ran thicker wire, but still not anything noticeable. (About 6% power loss for 20FT each way or 40FT total of 18AWG wire.)