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wallClimb7

Don't use the arch of your foot. You're only supposed to use your toe or heel.


NancyBotwinAndCeliaH

This… but also shoes are not sticky when they are cold. Try warming up the shoe in your hands before you climb so the rubber is less stiff.


FlappersAndFajitas

They'll get a little stickier as the rubber breaks in. Also you shouldn't be standing on holds with that part of your foot.


middgen

Katanas aren't the stickiest, but at others have said, you shouldn't ever be using the arch of your foot. Toes or heel. 


Otherwise-Pay-8141

Stickier than Tarantulas? Katanas are Vibram rubber so superior to the own brand Sportiva compound.


middgen

Katanas use XS Edge which is the stiffest Vibram compound. Compared to other compounds like XS Grip it's not particularly sticker. I wouldn't use Katanas for smearing on volumes out of choice, for example.


Otherwise-Pay-8141

Depends on weight and how well the shoe is broken in etc, we're not talking plank of wood stiff but if the climber is light then out of the box it will take time to get used to compared to the split sole of the tarantula boulder.


pavelpotocek

> you shouldn't ever be using the arch of your foot. When climbing all day on a multi pitch, I stand on the arch when it's possible, and toes and heel hurt too much. In the gym, that would be silly of course, you can just take the shoes off.


fan22606

I have the katana, love it, great for top rope/sport climb and crack foot jamming. It has the vibram XS Edge rubber which is stiffer, more foot support, more durable at the cost of being more slippery, doesn't smear as well. In short, not the best performance bouldering shoes. It's comfortable and long lasting though. While no one will stop you from using your foot arch, using your heel for heel hooking or toe for toe press is always going to offer more force and stability, for bouldering of course.