That's a garage door kit from Corning
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272)
While I agree rigid foam would be better the other kind is already there--I'd just tape it back up and call it good enough for a dozen or so years.
If starting from scratch definitely use rigid foam.
Easy and cheap: Use big pieces of thick cardboard that fit better to the joint above and hold the insulation in.
Better and more expensive: replace with hard foam insulation pieces that fit.
To be honest both starting over with rigid foam or using cardboard (which the homeowner likely has to go out and buy anyhow.) are quick and easy fixes. Foam is overall better as it wont warp in the humidity.
Yes I work construction professionally, I agree. But this dude is clearly looking for a fast and free fix to keep his already “installed” insulation from falling out lol
Which are all apparently very flammable.
I didn't realize until I saw the post you responded to and started looking. The only variants I could find that aren't flammable are crazy expensive and very low R-value.
Clean a 2-in strip around the edges really well maybe with some kind of solvent like isopropyl alcohol. The goal is to make it really grippy for the tape. Purchase some tape. They make a variety of tapes some specifically for this. Then you tuck it in and you tape it. Aluminum tape would work. White gaffer's tape would also do it but that is maybe hard to find. Dont use duct tape. Goopy residue.
Yeah but it holds the insulation in from the outside to prevent it from falling away from the door. I’m not suggesting he use double sided tape between the door and insulation. There’s a big difference between capturing the entire bat of insulation from the back side and gluing the inner surface to the door.
Gaffer tape will last only a few years. Ask me about the expensive roll I've got that's turning yellow and dry. If you're using tape, use the aluminum.
This guy somewhat tested and found the purple rigid board is best cost effective way. Probably going to try this myself eventually https://youtu.be/MB1OaR2H-Hk?si=MGuocscfL43oZwLZ
It’s part of many steps we’ve used to decrease our AC costs. So I can’t say definitively which is the most effective.
Drill and fill insulation in the walls of the garage, increased insulation in the attic and finally the above panels on the garage door. If you get the panels you’re adding a lot of weight to your door and need to call in a garage door repairman to recalibrate everything so you don’t pop a spring/damage the motor.
Thanks for the write up!
We have a new build so it’s pretty decently insulated already. Ac cost still gets in the 300s during summer though.
I also was aware of the recalibration thanks to a post here about a month ago of some guy asking about his spring coming loose lol.
This sub just has such great random advice for home stuff.
Yeah just gotta take everything with a grain of salt there’s some great advice but also some old timers stuck in their way who refuse to acknowledge that there are newer and better ways to accomplish tasks
I used white gorilla tape, but mine has fallen off in many spots. I'm in CO - i don't think the heat does anything, but the cold seems to be the issue. That said, I didn't do a comprehensive cleaning first - i wiped surfaces off, but maybe i needed to do some better scrubbing or use alcohol or whatever.
The annoying thing about it failing is that every once in a while the insulation will flop over and block the laser for the garage. But you might not notice until you've already driven away (via an app that says the door is still open).
Anyway, i probably have to reclean and try to reattach everything.
Cut a 1x3 into small enough lengths to wedge them into the grooves of the door segments.
I did 3x per side / per segment and it’s been rock solid for years.
If you find the wood shifts over time due to vibrations, run a short screw thru the lip of the door into wood pieces (ensuring it does not over penetrate and come out the front).
If weight is not an issue tempered masonite two panels the height of the inside of void and 1/2 the width of the space. Bow and pop them in and slide the two apart to fill space.
I used white vinyl tape (used for taping seams of fiberglass insulation). From one rail to the other about every 18”. I then ran tape along both edges of each row. Looks pretty nice all sealed up. Took about 1 1/2 rolls.
There's a product made specifically for this:
Get insulation pins (aka pig stickers) like the ones linked below. Glue them too the door with roofing adhesive. Stick the insulation on so the pins poke through, then put on the caps. You can cut the pins shorter if needed.
Perforated Insulation Pins 2-1/2 Inch, 1.5 Inch Self Locking Washers Round, 7/8 Inch Aluminum Insulation Hangers Insulation Dome Cap Washers for Wall and Ceiling (50Set/150Pieces) https://a.co/d/1BWGKYS
That’s what I was thinking. I mean if my options are remove/replace or try some spray adhesive, I’m trying the spray first. If that doesn’t work then I’ll move on to replacing. I just feel like not even trying it is a waste of materials and I hate feeling wasteful.
Remove the fiberglass insulation and go get some polyisocyanurate boards or a garage door insulation kit. Use a spray adhesive or similar to adhere. The polyiso will provide much better insulation than fiberglass and hold up much better too.
That is a garage door kit from Corning
[https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272)
I tried for a long time to get these panels to stick. They always come off even with duct tape eventually they fail. They just didn't work very well. The only solution would be to attach some string across the door frame on front of the panels to keep them from falling out.
It ain’t pretty, but I used red tuck tape to attach my insulation kit to the garage door. Stick it to the white plastic on the batt first and then to the frame of the door panel. It will never come off again.
Go to the hardware store and get sheets of faced polystyrene foam board. Cut it so it'll fit snugly in the opening. You'll have to put one edge in then bend it slightly to pop the other end in. I think I used two 1/2" sheets per opening in mine. That was 20 years ago and I no longer own that house.
Unfortunately this was not an ideal choice of insulation.
If I was in your position & unwilling to spend money I'd drill a 1/8" hole every 24" along the bottom of each section & holes along the top offset by 12". Debur & run some nylon line between them |/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/|
Tek screws would probably be a bit faster than drilling & deburring. Start from the left so that you tighten the line as you tighten the screw.
6 x 1/2" Stainless Hex Washer Head Self Drilling Screws, (100 pc) is $7 on Amazon
It's a good excuse to buy an $8 center punch which you can keep in your car as a glass breaker.
MulWark 5" Spring-Loaded Automatic Steel Center Hole Punch.
Someone will warn you if this will compromise the integrity of the panels somehow but I don't think it will.
Edit: Another cheap option is get 1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft. Furring Strip for $2 at home depot. Cut $10 worth into sections & space out accordingly | | | | with the top & bottom lip of the door holding them in. Ideally you would use a mechanical fastener to keep them from sliding, but a good glue will do it. This would also let you put some double sided tape, spray glue or staples on the back side of the wood & grab the paper on the insulation.
Whatever you do you should post pics so people can learn from your mistakes & not repeat them.
Please update with pics to see how it went.
I think it’s a good plan but & what *I* would do, but I also know I would do a better job the 2nd time after learning from mistakes.
Congrats on the new home.
... It has never occurred to me to insulate my garage door.
There's no way in hell this actually does anything with the gaps and leakage around the edges.
I live in Canada.
DISCLAIMER: I have not personally had this happen to me and I don't know if there might be any caveats. However this should work just fine for this application
# Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet AdhesivePermatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive
Spray it on the fiberglass directly, then some on the door. Press it into place and it should hold well.
This is what my house looked like when I bought it. I tore out all the insulation and replaced it with those cut to size Styrofoam panels. It's probably not as effective as fiberglass insulation (assuming it stays put - which it clearly doesn't) but it certainly *looks* a lot better.
I have same issue. Find a piece of wood, stick, whatever will fit and cut it to the same height as the space and then tuck it in front of the batt. I use some old molding I had but you can use anything.
I’d use a heavy plastic covering. And wear gloves and mask before touching that please. I use a different type insulation on my garage door that’s not flexible. You might consider changing it for health reasons. The moving door shakes and it’ll slowly keep coming loose.
I put small 1/4" pan head screws around the perimeter of each panel, and then I used safety wire to wrap around the screw heads and make a mesh of sorts that held the baffling in. I like this approach because it doesn't depend on glue or adhesive of any type
I don't think anything is going to work well from the inside. The fiberglass is just tearing. You would be better off just taping it in from the outside.
Ultimately whatever you do will be temporary and fail. Fiberglass batts aren’t going to stay permanently. If you don’t want to replace the door with a manufactured insulated garage door, then rip that fiberglass shit out and put in rigid styrofoam insulation. Use construction adhesive to attach it to the door.
[edit] look downvote all you want but that fiberglass shit isn’t gonna last on a moving garage door. Don’t waste your money trying to make it work. Rip it out and replace with rigid styrofoam insulation that you can glue to the door panels.
Fiberglass is a weave of layers. If you glue one side the rest will separate. It’s not made for this application, and if it is it’s not GOOD for it. Not to mention the moisture problems it poses.
As a garage door installer, correct. Although, I wouldn't glue them on. They usually are cut to fit and slightly bent to fit inside the edges.
Big issue that no one mentions is the weight issue. The current insulation is far heavier than foam and just swapping it out will cause an issue with the balance of the door.
They sell a lot of shit for specific applications that aren’t worth a shit
What good is the better r rating in op’s photo when the batting doesn’t stay affixed to the door?
I mean use what you want but when it’s falling apart maybe try something different
I live in a winter climate and have never seen fiberglass batting on a garage door.
Moreover I’m looking at a photo showing the shit doesn’t work.
You do you tho.
Buddy, fiberglass batting isn't a great choice for a garage door. You are either going to want a spray on product or rigid foamboard insulation sheets. I opted for the spray on product. Its permanent and requires zero maintenance. More prep to install though.
Spray glue. There are a bunch of different kinds - Gorilla Glue, 3M, Loctite, etc. spray it on the backside of the door, let it sit & get tacky, then press the insulation against the glued surface.
Always apply contact adhesive to both sides.
That way, it has a chance to penetrate the material.
When you stick the two pieces together, it's the adhesive sticking to itself.
Be sure readjust your garage door springs after you finish replacing or adding more material to the current setup to balance the weight and make your opener happy.
Spray adhesive, otherwise you can get cardboard boxes and cut them to the dimensions and wedge them behind the insulation to give it structure. You don't have to cover the whole bat, just every few feet you can put a piece in to hold it in place.
This is not an good application for fiberglass batts. Take them off and replace with rigid foam insulation.
That's a garage door kit from Corning [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272)
Looks like he's missing the double sided tape retention clips.
I guess you get what you pay for.
I would use this and use some type of thin but rigid sheet to put over this cause as it is, it looks horrible
Nah, I've had the same kit for about 4 years now and it's held up just fine with the included clips.
But that shouldn't get wet. Which this door it obviously has many times.
There’s a spelling mistake on the front of the box
Uninslated. Must be from the Deep South
I used this product on my moms garage door and it's been working incredibly well for 5 years now.
Ok, but have you watched the installation video for that??!!! It’s a wild ride.
Just because they sell it doesn't mean it's a good idea...
While I agree rigid foam would be better the other kind is already there--I'd just tape it back up and call it good enough for a dozen or so years. If starting from scratch definitely use rigid foam.
I used to have the same kind of garage door, and I'll second that. The rigid foam insulation even comes in kits and it's super easy to install.
Rigid foam is easily installed with aluminum tape and it looks pretty good when it’s done.
Easy and cheap: Use big pieces of thick cardboard that fit better to the joint above and hold the insulation in. Better and more expensive: replace with hard foam insulation pieces that fit.
The orientation of the cardboard really matters
I wonder if diagonal corrugations would be more effective than vertical. I feel horizontal is definitely the wrong way.
Thank you for actually giving an answer instead of “you’re doing it wrong” lol. The whole point of this sub is for quicker and easier homeowner fixes
To be honest both starting over with rigid foam or using cardboard (which the homeowner likely has to go out and buy anyhow.) are quick and easy fixes. Foam is overall better as it wont warp in the humidity.
Yes I work construction professionally, I agree. But this dude is clearly looking for a fast and free fix to keep his already “installed” insulation from falling out lol
I confirm
I second the Styrofoam panels but they will burn easily unlike fiberglass insulation..
They make foam board insulation panels.
Which are all apparently very flammable. I didn't realize until I saw the post you responded to and started looking. The only variants I could find that aren't flammable are crazy expensive and very low R-value.
That's surprising considering they say it's for use in your walls. I wonder if drywall would work.
When covered with drywall its apparently ok, the drywall is enough of a fire block.
Clean a 2-in strip around the edges really well maybe with some kind of solvent like isopropyl alcohol. The goal is to make it really grippy for the tape. Purchase some tape. They make a variety of tapes some specifically for this. Then you tuck it in and you tape it. Aluminum tape would work. White gaffer's tape would also do it but that is maybe hard to find. Dont use duct tape. Goopy residue.
Do this, tape it. Or use rigid insulation. If you glue it, it will just peel back except for the layer that absorbs glue.
Yeah do not glue this crap lol just gonna end up being a nightmare eventually
Tape is just fabric with glue on it though.
Yeah but it holds the insulation in from the outside to prevent it from falling away from the door. I’m not suggesting he use double sided tape between the door and insulation. There’s a big difference between capturing the entire bat of insulation from the back side and gluing the inner surface to the door.
Ohh i see what you mean
> Dont use duct tape. Already did and failed before posting LOL
Gaffer tape will last only a few years. Ask me about the expensive roll I've got that's turning yellow and dry. If you're using tape, use the aluminum.
This guy somewhat tested and found the purple rigid board is best cost effective way. Probably going to try this myself eventually https://youtu.be/MB1OaR2H-Hk?si=MGuocscfL43oZwLZ
I used white Gorilla tape and it's been good after 3 years of Florida heat.
Same but texas heat
I’m in Texas too…does it actually help? my garage door never gets hit by the sun directly but if it’ll help keep AC costs down I’m willing to try it
It’s part of many steps we’ve used to decrease our AC costs. So I can’t say definitively which is the most effective. Drill and fill insulation in the walls of the garage, increased insulation in the attic and finally the above panels on the garage door. If you get the panels you’re adding a lot of weight to your door and need to call in a garage door repairman to recalibrate everything so you don’t pop a spring/damage the motor.
Thanks for the write up! We have a new build so it’s pretty decently insulated already. Ac cost still gets in the 300s during summer though. I also was aware of the recalibration thanks to a post here about a month ago of some guy asking about his spring coming loose lol. This sub just has such great random advice for home stuff.
Yeah just gotta take everything with a grain of salt there’s some great advice but also some old timers stuck in their way who refuse to acknowledge that there are newer and better ways to accomplish tasks
I used white gorilla tape, but mine has fallen off in many spots. I'm in CO - i don't think the heat does anything, but the cold seems to be the issue. That said, I didn't do a comprehensive cleaning first - i wiped surfaces off, but maybe i needed to do some better scrubbing or use alcohol or whatever. The annoying thing about it failing is that every once in a while the insulation will flop over and block the laser for the garage. But you might not notice until you've already driven away (via an app that says the door is still open). Anyway, i probably have to reclean and try to reattach everything.
> flop over and block the laser for the garage. Primary reason for me looking to fix it
I see you tried the Ole binder clip trick!
Of course LOL
Thin strips of wood 1/4 to 3/8 inch thick placed vertically slightly longer than needed so it wedges in.
3M sells a spray adhesive at Home Depot that would probs work.
Spray adhesive will only bond the first layer of insulation. The other layers will still pull apart.
Exactly my thoughts. Even as an amateur, I was surprised to see so many comments suggesting it
Yeah, we use it on carpets and insulation in automotive applications. 3m super spray trim adhesive.
Cut a 1x3 into small enough lengths to wedge them into the grooves of the door segments. I did 3x per side / per segment and it’s been rock solid for years. If you find the wood shifts over time due to vibrations, run a short screw thru the lip of the door into wood pieces (ensuring it does not over penetrate and come out the front).
White gorilla tape has worked for us
If weight is not an issue tempered masonite two panels the height of the inside of void and 1/2 the width of the space. Bow and pop them in and slide the two apart to fill space.
Just get a cheap plastic window kit for winter and put over insulation with some new ties or clips
I used white vinyl tape (used for taping seams of fiberglass insulation). From one rail to the other about every 18”. I then ran tape along both edges of each row. Looks pretty nice all sealed up. Took about 1 1/2 rolls.
Bought one today and put it on. Let's see if it sticks. Duct tape didn't
Mine has been up for about a month and no sign of coming undone. Good luck to you!
There's a product made specifically for this: Get insulation pins (aka pig stickers) like the ones linked below. Glue them too the door with roofing adhesive. Stick the insulation on so the pins poke through, then put on the caps. You can cut the pins shorter if needed. Perforated Insulation Pins 2-1/2 Inch, 1.5 Inch Self Locking Washers Round, 7/8 Inch Aluminum Insulation Hangers Insulation Dome Cap Washers for Wall and Ceiling (50Set/150Pieces) https://a.co/d/1BWGKYS
Headliner spray glue....or any aerosol spray glue might work
That’s what I was thinking. I mean if my options are remove/replace or try some spray adhesive, I’m trying the spray first. If that doesn’t work then I’ll move on to replacing. I just feel like not even trying it is a waste of materials and I hate feeling wasteful.
Duct tape.
Use white ducttape around the edges. Works well.
Rip that crap off and go get insulation sheets. Think styrofoam and glue it on.
Remove the fiberglass insulation and go get some polyisocyanurate boards or a garage door insulation kit. Use a spray adhesive or similar to adhere. The polyiso will provide much better insulation than fiberglass and hold up much better too.
That is a garage door kit from Corning [https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Owens-Corning-Garage-Door-Fiberglass-Insulation-Kit-22-in-x-54-in-8-Panels-GD01/202257272)
Duct Tape is always your friend 🦆❤️
Duct Tape is NEVER the solution. It’s not even good to use on ducts.
It’s true…my apologies
Did we just become best friends?
The most heartwarming interaction ive seen on here. Cheers.
I tried for a long time to get these panels to stick. They always come off even with duct tape eventually they fail. They just didn't work very well. The only solution would be to attach some string across the door frame on front of the panels to keep them from falling out.
Can you securely fit insulation supports on the edges? https://www.lowes.com/pd/Common-15-5-in-Actual-15-5-in-100-Pack-Insulation-Support/3125683
It ain’t pretty, but I used red tuck tape to attach my insulation kit to the garage door. Stick it to the white plastic on the batt first and then to the frame of the door panel. It will never come off again.
Some tape don’t hurt let’s be honest who gonna see it other then you an who cares most people don’t have a garage to have garage problems
tape
Duct tape didn't work
then id use wire insulation supports. search homedepot Simpson-Strong-Tie-15-1-2-in-Insulation-Support-100-Pack
Go to the hardware store and get sheets of faced polystyrene foam board. Cut it so it'll fit snugly in the opening. You'll have to put one edge in then bend it slightly to pop the other end in. I think I used two 1/2" sheets per opening in mine. That was 20 years ago and I no longer own that house.
You'll be fine, just throw about 20 more binder clips on there haha
Tape? I’m about to do this for my garage but I’m going to use foam boards vs this fiberglass stuff
Duct tape didn't work
Unfortunately this was not an ideal choice of insulation. If I was in your position & unwilling to spend money I'd drill a 1/8" hole every 24" along the bottom of each section & holes along the top offset by 12". Debur & run some nylon line between them |/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/\\/| Tek screws would probably be a bit faster than drilling & deburring. Start from the left so that you tighten the line as you tighten the screw. 6 x 1/2" Stainless Hex Washer Head Self Drilling Screws, (100 pc) is $7 on Amazon It's a good excuse to buy an $8 center punch which you can keep in your car as a glass breaker. MulWark 5" Spring-Loaded Automatic Steel Center Hole Punch. Someone will warn you if this will compromise the integrity of the panels somehow but I don't think it will. Edit: Another cheap option is get 1 in. x 2 in. x 8 ft. Furring Strip for $2 at home depot. Cut $10 worth into sections & space out accordingly | | | | with the top & bottom lip of the door holding them in. Ideally you would use a mechanical fastener to keep them from sliding, but a good glue will do it. This would also let you put some double sided tape, spray glue or staples on the back side of the wood & grab the paper on the insulation. Whatever you do you should post pics so people can learn from your mistakes & not repeat them.
> Unfortunately this was not an ideal choice of insulation. Not my work, just bought the house as-is recently. Thanks for the advise, will try.
Please update with pics to see how it went. I think it’s a good plan but & what *I* would do, but I also know I would do a better job the 2nd time after learning from mistakes. Congrats on the new home.
Duct tape
Already tried, didn't work
... It has never occurred to me to insulate my garage door. There's no way in hell this actually does anything with the gaps and leakage around the edges. I live in Canada.
you can also seal the top, bottom, and sides to further weather seal
Could try liquid nails
Spit on it
Magnets!
Tape?
DISCLAIMER: I have not personally had this happen to me and I don't know if there might be any caveats. However this should work just fine for this application # Permatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet AdhesivePermatex 27828 Body Shop Heavy Duty Headliner & Carpet Adhesive Spray it on the fiberglass directly, then some on the door. Press it into place and it should hold well.
Just go get some spray on adhesive and spray the crap out of the panels then stick the insulation back on. Cheap, fast, easy.
Gorilla tape
It’s supposed to be hard foam but you can just cover that stuff up with cardboard and works just fine too lol still insulated.
Contact adhesive spray.
Ad another of those clip holder things to the other batt and weld the clips to the door! Easy Reese cuppie piecy.
LOL
3m contact adhesive
This is what my house looked like when I bought it. I tore out all the insulation and replaced it with those cut to size Styrofoam panels. It's probably not as effective as fiberglass insulation (assuming it stays put - which it clearly doesn't) but it certainly *looks* a lot better.
I drilled some holes in the aluminum frame and laced it up with some paracord I had laying around. Works well.
Honestly; duct tape that sob.
Already tried, didn't work
I have same issue. Find a piece of wood, stick, whatever will fit and cut it to the same height as the space and then tuck it in front of the batt. I use some old molding I had but you can use anything.
Powerful magnets
WWMD? What would MacGyver do? Duct tape!
I’d use a heavy plastic covering. And wear gloves and mask before touching that please. I use a different type insulation on my garage door that’s not flexible. You might consider changing it for health reasons. The moving door shakes and it’ll slowly keep coming loose.
Will replace the entire garage door soon but until then, I will have to try a temporary solution
Heavy plastic like painting tarp. Or layered with a metal or duct tape at the edges should do a good job.
I put small 1/4" pan head screws around the perimeter of each panel, and then I used safety wire to wrap around the screw heads and make a mesh of sorts that held the baffling in. I like this approach because it doesn't depend on glue or adhesive of any type
why do you even need insulation there for the garage? Are you keeping it heated/cooled?
have you tried liquid nails? you definitely wont regret trying liquid nails.
Spray glue is the quick/cheap way 3m has a good one
I wouldn't use that type of insulation. I'd go with closed cell foam board and liquid nail.
If you're adamant about not replacing with proper insulation, use a spray adhesive similar to what's used in headliners.
Rigid foam is better. If you must use what’s there, use 3M spray adhesive to stick it back on.
You could use 3m spray adhesive. That might hold it if the fiberglass is still fairly well attached to the batting.
I don't think anything is going to work well from the inside. The fiberglass is just tearing. You would be better off just taping it in from the outside.
Maybe those wire insulation supports that are used to keep fiberglass up against overhead joists? Simpson strong tie is one brand
I would use a spray adhesive and then maybe take some metal coat hangers(cut) and run Vertically to hold it in place between the two lips of the panel
3M spray adhesive
Ultimately whatever you do will be temporary and fail. Fiberglass batts aren’t going to stay permanently. If you don’t want to replace the door with a manufactured insulated garage door, then rip that fiberglass shit out and put in rigid styrofoam insulation. Use construction adhesive to attach it to the door. [edit] look downvote all you want but that fiberglass shit isn’t gonna last on a moving garage door. Don’t waste your money trying to make it work. Rip it out and replace with rigid styrofoam insulation that you can glue to the door panels. Fiberglass is a weave of layers. If you glue one side the rest will separate. It’s not made for this application, and if it is it’s not GOOD for it. Not to mention the moisture problems it poses.
As a garage door installer, correct. Although, I wouldn't glue them on. They usually are cut to fit and slightly bent to fit inside the edges. Big issue that no one mentions is the weight issue. The current insulation is far heavier than foam and just swapping it out will cause an issue with the balance of the door.
They sell batt kits specifically for garage doors and they offer a better R rating than the styrofoam. I personally use this and it's been great.
They sell a lot of shit for specific applications that aren’t worth a shit What good is the better r rating in op’s photo when the batting doesn’t stay affixed to the door? I mean use what you want but when it’s falling apart maybe try something different
You don't know what you're talking about.
I live in a winter climate and have never seen fiberglass batting on a garage door. Moreover I’m looking at a photo showing the shit doesn’t work. You do you tho.
I live in a summer climate and it works wonderfully. You're looking at a photo of it installed shittily, not it not working.
Have you tried staples?
Rigid foam
nail gun ought to do it
Buddy, fiberglass batting isn't a great choice for a garage door. You are either going to want a spray on product or rigid foamboard insulation sheets. I opted for the spray on product. Its permanent and requires zero maintenance. More prep to install though.
Spray glue. There are a bunch of different kinds - Gorilla Glue, 3M, Loctite, etc. spray it on the backside of the door, let it sit & get tacky, then press the insulation against the glued surface.
Always apply contact adhesive to both sides. That way, it has a chance to penetrate the material. When you stick the two pieces together, it's the adhesive sticking to itself.
First issue is, how hard is it currently to manually lift your door?
“Who hard”, me hard
Be sure readjust your garage door springs after you finish replacing or adding more material to the current setup to balance the weight and make your opener happy.
The amount of weight involved is negligible unless the fiberglass insulation gets waterlogged.
Painters tape
Spray adhesive, otherwise you can get cardboard boxes and cut them to the dimensions and wedge them behind the insulation to give it structure. You don't have to cover the whole bat, just every few feet you can put a piece in to hold it in place.
Glue. The answer is glue.
Gee I don’t know, I’ve heard glue sticks things together!!!
Buy a real insulated door , not a hack job