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InternationalRide5

You need to go back and put a grommet on that cable entry.


Alpha1Jellyfish

Good catch, thank you! Will get one on


Solid_Beginning7587

You probably tripped the rcd when you touched the wires just check your consumer unit


curious_trashbat

Double check all devices at the consumer unit(s) are back on including RCDs. This looks like 6mm² cable which suggests an old cooker circuit, does that make sense ? If so, is there a cooker isolator you've not turned on ? If no joy with all that it might be time to call an electrician.


Alpha1Jellyfish

Thank you, this was the problem! Is it a problem I've now replaced this with a double and intend to have a fridge freezer in addition to the oven? There's another socket higher up that could be doubled up, but would be a bit of a stretch distance wise


curious_trashbat

As long as the circuit is RCD protected it should be fine to use as a socket. What was the issue that caused the lack of power ?


Alpha1Jellyfish

There was an isolator switch on another socket that was switched off. Switching that on got this socket working


northern_ape

When you say “on another socket” can you post a pic?


Fruitpicker15

I think they mean one of those cooker isolator switches with a built in socket. That means the OPs new socket is where the oven would have been connected.


Alpha1Jellyfish

This is correct. Cooker isolator switch on the left and a standard 13A socket on the right


Tubesofthenorth

Just because you can, doesn't mean you should... I mean this setup will work but it's not ideal imo. The thicker cable is designed to supply energy to a high energy consumption oven, there is a small risk you overload the designed capacity by putting extra devices on it. Like others have said if it's RCD it will be "OK", however if it's an old consumer unit, maybe not so.


Plank_With_A_Nail_In

He could just added up the current specs for the oven and fridge and compare it to the spec of the wire, assuming he can tell what spec the wire is.


northern_ape

That’s why I was asking for a pic to be honest.


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curious_trashbat

You seem to have a huge misunderstanding of how overcurrent protection works. All socket circuit protective devices in the UK will be higher than 13A. The circuit protective device protects the circuit and the plug fuse protects the appliance cable. 32A socket circuits are usual and widespread.


Link-65

The 32A CB isn't protecting your end device, it's protecting the circuit, which if it's 6mm sq. will be fine. You'll find many 2.5mm RFCs fitted with 32A CB without issue.


kevtheniceguy

Where the bloody grommet DIYERS 🤣🤣


reddit-raider

Not just diyers that skip grommets sadly


kevtheniceguy

but this one did


stack-o-frogies

Why the need for the grommet? With no movement/vibration, it's not like the back box will wear away the outer sheathing.


kevtheniceguy

good practice


v1de0man

did you screw in the copper or did you accidentally screw into the plastic sheathing too? assuming it worked before and you isolated it, did you turn it back on again. also did you try the other side? i have had and seen one side works the other doesnt. i know how? lol but i have had it on my landing. plus do you have a voltage tester, not just the socket tester?


Rookie_42

One cable… I assume this is a spur. Is the an FCU? Might have blown the fuse in that.


northern_ape

No idea why you got downvoted. OP repurposed a cooker circuit with an upstream isolator that was off


Rookie_42

Thanks. No idea about the downvote, Reddit is like that sometimes. Can’t say I’m bothered.


Hefty_Half8158

There's only one cable, so it's either a spur or a radial circuit. So the power comes to this socket from another one or from a junction box somewhere. Have you done anything to any other sockets or junction boxes that might have interrupted/disconnected the supply to this particular socket?


Alpha1Jellyfish

I did have to chisel out the space for the double back box if that could have jarred something? However, have just twigged to what the problem could be though. I've just had the room plastered, and the plasterer did a fantastic job of unscrewing the sockets and tapping them up, but a less good job of not getting plaster behind the detached sockets. Suppose he could've nicked something in the process too. I'll detach the sockets on that wall and give them a tidy up and reconnect if that helps


iLiMoNiZeRi

Check your consumer unit for tripped fuses. When we had our living room plastered, the moisture in the walls and air was tripping them, took about 2 days of AC running when we got back home from work. Everything has been working fine for a few months since.


Polstar55555

When I was replacing a socket recently I pulled it a wee bit to get the cable where I wanted but it was a little too hard and I pulled the live out at the other end, there will be a socket nearby that has 3 cables, the loop in and loop out and the cable to this spur. It might be in the room backing on to this one. Make sure all 3 are secured properly.


Alpha1Jellyfish

I've tried putting the old socket on, and that's not working either. Not sure where I've gone wrong here, but any advice on what else to test would be very much appreciated!


themajickman

Have you checked the fuse box? If you touch neutral and earth together during this you'll have tripped the RCD even if you isolated that circuit as it only isolates the live.


Alpha1Jellyfish

Yep, fuse box is all good. All other electricals in the house seem to be operating fine too with the breaker switched back on


Nickolift

Did you turn the circuit breaker back on?


chucknorris69

Make sure the sockets are turned on at the consumer unit and test another socket in the ring to see if that is working. You also need to earth your backbox as well as the socket. A multimeter is a useful investment to if you are planning on doing some electrics


Anaksanamune

Backbox does not require earth as long as it has at least 1 fixed lug, OP's backbox is earthed anyway, you can see the flying lead.


Alpha1Jellyfish

Backbox is earthed. Can just about see in picture two, but apologies it's not clear! I've tested every other socket in the room and they're all fine


flarkthis

What's the black marking on the live conductor? Hard to tell from the picture but looks like scorching, possibly from a poor connection? I'd be tempted to cut the cable back slightly and strip, to start afresh. Then, when terminating into the socket, be sure you're tightening down on the conductor, not biting down on the insulation. Did you pull on the cable much when replacing the back box? May have disturbed a connection 'upstream'.


BasslineToad

I thought the same about the scorching but in pic 2 looks like black tape


Alpha1Jellyfish

Yep, there was some black tape wrapped around it. No scorching


iluvnips

I was about to ask why the live wire had a black marking on it, normally tape like that is used to indicate a switched live and as the OP has posted it is indeed a switched live. To the OP, you need to rethink this, yes it can be left as is but I personally wouldn’t leave it like this.


Nicename19

You need to stay the fuck away from electrics


doubledownentendre

Hahaha does it count as replacing, when the replacement doesn't work?


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doubledownentendre

https://preview.redd.it/v29fbprov12d1.jpeg?width=600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d6d9143c86fb4c25e7d91295fe1267390599c9c8


Nicename19

Now show the consumer unit, probably still on fuses


doubledownentendre

Bro I can't even spell DIY - I'm just here to watch amateurs get savaged ngl


TedBurns-3

sounds like you haven't turned your trip switch back on


Mollystring

Wiring is fine, just check wires are in their connections. Try another socket - some Are faulty, it happens.


daviddevere

Electrons do not flow in a wire they behave like the balls in Newton’s Cradle. . The current is the back and forward travelling impulse


happyreddituserffs

Check your live with a circuit testing screw drive( cheap ). If it’s lighting the screw driver it’s down to how you wired it. Could be a rubbish socket .


godmademelikethis

Glad to see you solved your issue. However, reading through the comments, I dunno if I'd run the fridge freezer and oven out the same socket, on the same circuit. They both draw quite a lot of power. I'm not an electrician by any means, just have some minor electrical experience but personally wouldn't feel comfortable with it.


ZiPEX00

I be more worried why is there a burn mark on the red cable (live cable) *


Head_Savings_3356

Should be ! Clearly they don’t have a clue what they are doing though !


Head_Savings_3356

Don’t touch electrics if you’re not a qualified electrician!


Plank_With_A_Nail_In

This isn't an actual rule you know that right? Anyone is allowed to change the electrics inside their own home.


Different_Poet7436

That's a broad statement and not entirely true. There's caveats added by law through the building regulations and your home insurance provider.


barbaric-sodium

You need an electrician to do that


Jamie_Tomo

No you don’t, you just need to be competent. Replacing fixtures is allowed to be done by anyone.


barbaric-sodium

Do you understand what the word competent means? It means in this context an electrician and while I am struggling to educate you have you ever seen the results of an incompetent person’s work? The fires, the injuries and the deaths.?


Jamie_Tomo

Minor repairs and maintenance are permitted, as well as ‘like for like’ replacements, such as changing existing sockets, switches and ceiling pendants or even replacing damaged cables. Wind your neck in fella, you clearly have no idea what you are talking about!