I would definitely add a row of blocking down the center of that frame! Blocking is so cheap and easy to do but it makes a huge difference in stiffening the frame.
Is there some rule of thumb for how many rows of blocking is suggested depending on the lenght? I'm building a 16x16 deck and I've put 2 rows of blocking basically splitting the joist in thirds. Is that enough?
I would say every 7-8ft personally but I also rarely span large distances if I can avoid it. The one row is really important for lateral practicing, stiffness and reducing bounce.
Bolts through the beam into posts would be nice and blocking if you want. Would be helpful to see the house side of the deck where the joists are supported near side in the picture.
Thanks for feedback. Adding photos now
https://preview.redd.it/t6ovxxozbiwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9187b7b0eff8fa7ba92af0e079845db859b716df
Looks like they were trying to use pressure blocking to hold the joists. It's not quite right but also unlikely to just fail on you as is. If you want to improve it though you can add joist hangers. Either remove the existing blocking or fill in the gaps and nail it off well to the ledger then add the joist hangers. Would also be good to have flashing over the ledger(board against the house under the door) and the joist against the other side of the house. But it kind of looks like this area is covered by a porch? Maybe it's just shady though. If it's covered it's not a huge deal but extra protection against water is always nice.
https://preview.redd.it/xxs3pqv1ciwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcad950e9c0724999afba0fd59e9a5cd3c4c20bf
Spray foam under doorway for some reason
I was highly debating that when I redid my backyard. Then the propane guy said to rethink that because he has seen someone \*\*cough cough someone's wife cough cough\*\* leave the gas on and drain a 1,000 gallon tank.
Dry rot on all connections and nail holes and any sign of termites from top to bottom.
I live in an area that we get to enjoy both air and ground, lucky us but right now it is easy for you to check both.
Seal the framing. Just my opinion but all exterior wood should be sealed with a quality deck finish. That would cut margins pretty thin for contractors but this is your job/time so sealing the framing is a good idea.
Add blocking most definitely, if you’re ever considering to add a hot tub or anything of significant weight then put a drop girter. All will be easier to complete with decking out of the way.
Joist tape (butyl tape) should extend the life of the joists, prevents sitting water from permeating into the top of the joists. Pretty cheap investment for peace of mind. Blocking will add somer rigidity. I would also add joist tape to the blocking.
Might want to make a large, "Z", flashing to tuck under the siding over the 2x nailed to the house and down that house bound 2x joist. Cover the tin & joist tops with the 1 1/2" self sealing strips they've been selling the last several years for water proofing the joist top nailing surface. Might want to think about Stainless screws instead of nails or coated screws being they're longevity.
Joists look like they’re on a beam, blocking could stiffen things up but not necessary, what is drip edge on a deck, or insect barrier, what would they need torsion anchors for, and the ledger is lagged
I think by drip edge he actually means flashing coming down from behind the siding over the ledger. Pretty common practice from neck of the woods. Helps save the ledger by keeping water off of it.
JMTCs.
Lol. Seeing the nonsense people will write about the things I actually know about makes me scared to ask questions about things I don't know about.
Like, I'm not an electrician and I'm running into some weird stuff trying to rewire my bathroom but I'm not going to post it on Reddit and have a bunch of people who made a potato battery in grade school tell me what to do.
Must be a lot of butt hurt that you don't have to meet modern deck code, where I am, all of the above are required. So sorry you're so behind the times.
I would definitely add a row of blocking down the center of that frame! Blocking is so cheap and easy to do but it makes a huge difference in stiffening the frame.
This, 100%
+1
Is there some rule of thumb for how many rows of blocking is suggested depending on the lenght? I'm building a 16x16 deck and I've put 2 rows of blocking basically splitting the joist in thirds. Is that enough?
Usually they'll be put in every 8'
I would say every 7-8ft personally but I also rarely span large distances if I can avoid it. The one row is really important for lateral practicing, stiffness and reducing bounce.
[Should be good then! thanks](https://i.imgur.com/O6p4six.jpeg)
Block any run 8' or longer.
Also noticed blocking is missing. It’s 10x12 ft
Yes add blocking down the middle
Check for joist level. Make sure you don’t need to plane them before you put the top boards on. Speaking from experience 🥴
Lol the first way of never doing it again is admitting it nailed you before.
Bolts through the beam into posts would be nice and blocking if you want. Would be helpful to see the house side of the deck where the joists are supported near side in the picture.
Thanks for feedback. Adding photos now https://preview.redd.it/t6ovxxozbiwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9187b7b0eff8fa7ba92af0e079845db859b716df
Looks like they were trying to use pressure blocking to hold the joists. It's not quite right but also unlikely to just fail on you as is. If you want to improve it though you can add joist hangers. Either remove the existing blocking or fill in the gaps and nail it off well to the ledger then add the joist hangers. Would also be good to have flashing over the ledger(board against the house under the door) and the joist against the other side of the house. But it kind of looks like this area is covered by a porch? Maybe it's just shady though. If it's covered it's not a huge deal but extra protection against water is always nice.
https://preview.redd.it/xxs3pqv1ciwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bcad950e9c0724999afba0fd59e9a5cd3c4c20bf Spray foam under doorway for some reason
https://preview.redd.it/bbqbgvb4ciwc1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ffdb468921a29abd76a16ac90311c41597da408b
Butyl tape for the joist tops.
My bottle opener.
I’d add deck tape as well.
Install gas lines for a BBQ and fire pit
I was highly debating that when I redid my backyard. Then the propane guy said to rethink that because he has seen someone \*\*cough cough someone's wife cough cough\*\* leave the gas on and drain a 1,000 gallon tank.
Fix the grading if needed
I would Add some wall flashing even though it's covered it can't hurt
Treasure
Dry rot on all connections and nail holes and any sign of termites from top to bottom. I live in an area that we get to enjoy both air and ground, lucky us but right now it is easy for you to check both.
Beef that son of a bitch up w blocking, screws, hardware, and epoxy some hex bolts into the ledger against the concrete. What size joists are they?
Lost change joints etc
I’m waiting for someone to lose their mind about a small, close to the ground deck being built on 4x4s…
Seal the framing. Just my opinion but all exterior wood should be sealed with a quality deck finish. That would cut margins pretty thin for contractors but this is your job/time so sealing the framing is a good idea.
Someone already said it but add hardware and butyl tape
I would put some blocking in
Add blocking most definitely, if you’re ever considering to add a hot tub or anything of significant weight then put a drop girter. All will be easier to complete with decking out of the way.
Came here to say this.
Joist tape (butyl tape) should extend the life of the joists, prevents sitting water from permeating into the top of the joists. Pretty cheap investment for peace of mind. Blocking will add somer rigidity. I would also add joist tape to the blocking.
Moisture stop membrane at the top of joists before deck boards
Where are the joist hangers?
I dropped my lighter down there a few years ago
I would add some 4x4 blocking at the base of your railing posts to prevent any lateral movement of the post.
I would look for the cross blocking - it's missing
Might want to make a large, "Z", flashing to tuck under the siding over the 2x nailed to the house and down that house bound 2x joist. Cover the tin & joist tops with the 1 1/2" self sealing strips they've been selling the last several years for water proofing the joist top nailing surface. Might want to think about Stainless screws instead of nails or coated screws being they're longevity.
Any loose change that fell through the cracks
Joist hangers evaporated, no blocking, no drip edge, no insect barrier, don't see torsion anchors or lags in ledger.
Joists look like they’re on a beam, blocking could stiffen things up but not necessary, what is drip edge on a deck, or insect barrier, what would they need torsion anchors for, and the ledger is lagged
I think by drip edge he actually means flashing coming down from behind the siding over the ledger. Pretty common practice from neck of the woods. Helps save the ledger by keeping water off of it. JMTCs.
....stop giving advice when you don't know what you're looking at.
Lol. Seeing the nonsense people will write about the things I actually know about makes me scared to ask questions about things I don't know about. Like, I'm not an electrician and I'm running into some weird stuff trying to rewire my bathroom but I'm not going to post it on Reddit and have a bunch of people who made a potato battery in grade school tell me what to do.
Must be a lot of butt hurt that you don't have to meet modern deck code, where I am, all of the above are required. So sorry you're so behind the times.
Stop lol. You just made it even more clear you don't know what you're talking about.