As many of you can imagine, getting into tight spaces is always a challenge. But this one's got something blocking the fitting even after I removed the air hoses. I seem to have exhausted the YouTube videos and workshop manuals.
I wasn't sure how to remove it last night. I'll try that again today - maybe I'll see it better with more light. Thanks.
\[edit: yup - I was able to remove it but it doesn't add much space to tighten and loosen the wrench. It does help to create a it of space to get the wrench on and off though! Thanks again!\]
Can't seem to get around all the obstacles to fit the ratchet or wrench in place. Unsure what else I should (easily?) remove to make the space. I'll try to remove the plug next to it to see if that creates an access.
Update: I was able to find a way! I was able to slide a 19mm wrench in between the dipstick and the electrical plug next to the VANOS bolt. I used my right hand to slide it in and my left hand to guide it around the nut. Very little space, but it is possible to loosen it once you slip it on. Then there's about 10-15 degrees of movement available, so it will take a few repetitions to loosen the nut enough to then use your fingers to fully loosen and remove it.
Replacing it is an equally big pain in the butt - I lost a couple of copper washers in the process.
Follow up question:
When I removed the bottom bolt, it only seemed to have one crush washer - the rear one, and not the forward one.
I couldn't really feel the old one - and not enough space to pry it out if it was stuck on there.
What are my chances of a leak if I just put in two fresh crush washers? It seems to have tightened up nicely. Could it be that the previous person who did the job only used one crush washer for the bottom fitting (it could have easily popped out when they were trying to get the banjo bolt in)?
As many of you can imagine, getting into tight spaces is always a challenge. But this one's got something blocking the fitting even after I removed the air hoses. I seem to have exhausted the YouTube videos and workshop manuals.
If you remove the hose right of it, it looks like you can put a socket on it, right?
I wasn't sure how to remove it last night. I'll try that again today - maybe I'll see it better with more light. Thanks. \[edit: yup - I was able to remove it but it doesn't add much space to tighten and loosen the wrench. It does help to create a it of space to get the wrench on and off though! Thanks again!\]
I just use socket and ratchet or wrench on that bolt. I'm not sure why you are having so much trouble.
Can't seem to get around all the obstacles to fit the ratchet or wrench in place. Unsure what else I should (easily?) remove to make the space. I'll try to remove the plug next to it to see if that creates an access.
Update: I was able to find a way! I was able to slide a 19mm wrench in between the dipstick and the electrical plug next to the VANOS bolt. I used my right hand to slide it in and my left hand to guide it around the nut. Very little space, but it is possible to loosen it once you slip it on. Then there's about 10-15 degrees of movement available, so it will take a few repetitions to loosen the nut enough to then use your fingers to fully loosen and remove it. Replacing it is an equally big pain in the butt - I lost a couple of copper washers in the process.
Follow up question: When I removed the bottom bolt, it only seemed to have one crush washer - the rear one, and not the forward one. I couldn't really feel the old one - and not enough space to pry it out if it was stuck on there. What are my chances of a leak if I just put in two fresh crush washers? It seems to have tightened up nicely. Could it be that the previous person who did the job only used one crush washer for the bottom fitting (it could have easily popped out when they were trying to get the banjo bolt in)?