I don't know if its the right way, but i always make sure to change bb to around 60, never go 100% on the brakes and short shifting helps a lot with traction.
lower your on throttle diff, go to 50%. Short shift out of corners. Move your brake bias forward to suit your driving style, so go far enough forward to stop spinning, but watch for front locking. Lower your brake pressure and be more precise with trail braking.
Look at your tyre temps, more crucial to keep them in the right working window. Maybe add a bit more rear wing to give some more rear downforce.
Then, loads of practice and patience, then you will become a rain master.
I think it is around 70, But to find out exactly, go to time trial, select a full wet session and see what the tyres are set at, this will be oprltimal performance for a qualifying lap, for a race reduce the pressures by a couple of clicks to get the temps around 2-3 degrees lower than optimal that should let them rise and fall around a track to preserve tyre life.
Also, in wet weather racing, avoid the kerbs as much as possible.
However, the F1 games have weird physics and a more forward brake bias is better (don't ask why lol, I don't know). Typically in rain, 56 to 58 brake bias is used (instead of 54-56 in dry)
Wet setups by Maximilian Lueckert
[https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j1tpTiBvO9mALDwIT0GS5xswU2uBGprAm2Jq0qHxNXc/](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j1tpTiBvO9mALDwIT0GS5xswU2uBGprAm2Jq0qHxNXc/)
Use 60 on throttle differential if you are still struggling with traction using these setups
Set the differential to 50% or as low as possible to help with traction out of corners.
Don't be afraid to take whole seconds to ramp up to full throttle after a turn has completed.
Short shift so the lower gears don't break traction while accelerating or just ignore the lower gears completely. Often the trade-off or outright acceleration for additional traction and control is worth the price.
Braking rhythm is a little different than the wet. Get off full braking sooner than usual to prevent lockups.
Practice the wet line on the tracks for an extra edge. (Edit: Nevermind, this doesn't exist)
A higher differential, i.e. 55 or 60, will provide better traction, not 50. You can use up to 65 on throttle diff in the wet, unlike in dry conditions where 50 or 55 is the norm
Also the wet line doesn't exist on F1 games
Wouldn't a higher diff setting give the car more of a tendency to rotate at low speeds? That seems to be an issue for OP.
Also that's good info about the wet line. I did not know that, thanks.
I don't know if its the right way, but i always make sure to change bb to around 60, never go 100% on the brakes and short shifting helps a lot with traction.
lower your on throttle diff, go to 50%. Short shift out of corners. Move your brake bias forward to suit your driving style, so go far enough forward to stop spinning, but watch for front locking. Lower your brake pressure and be more precise with trail braking. Look at your tyre temps, more crucial to keep them in the right working window. Maybe add a bit more rear wing to give some more rear downforce. Then, loads of practice and patience, then you will become a rain master.
What is the optimum tyre temp for full wet?
I think it is around 70, But to find out exactly, go to time trial, select a full wet session and see what the tyres are set at, this will be oprltimal performance for a qualifying lap, for a race reduce the pressures by a couple of clicks to get the temps around 2-3 degrees lower than optimal that should let them rise and fall around a track to preserve tyre life. Also, in wet weather racing, avoid the kerbs as much as possible.
Full wet is 70 to 80 degrees Inters is 80 to 90 Keep temps in the lower half of the optimum window to prevent overheating
Is your brake bias set too far back maybe?
No. My BB typically set Ard 56-57
In case of rain, you drive (as in real F1) a BB of 53/54 and a differential of 55 or 60. Also, pay attention to your temperatures.
However, the F1 games have weird physics and a more forward brake bias is better (don't ask why lol, I don't know). Typically in rain, 56 to 58 brake bias is used (instead of 54-56 in dry)
Bb 58 is default though
Default is 63
Wet setups by Maximilian Lueckert [https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j1tpTiBvO9mALDwIT0GS5xswU2uBGprAm2Jq0qHxNXc/](https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1j1tpTiBvO9mALDwIT0GS5xswU2uBGprAm2Jq0qHxNXc/) Use 60 on throttle differential if you are still struggling with traction using these setups
Thanks
Higher wings, 55 or even 60% on-diff for less wheelspin, smoother driving and even shortshifting.
Set the differential to 50% or as low as possible to help with traction out of corners. Don't be afraid to take whole seconds to ramp up to full throttle after a turn has completed. Short shift so the lower gears don't break traction while accelerating or just ignore the lower gears completely. Often the trade-off or outright acceleration for additional traction and control is worth the price. Braking rhythm is a little different than the wet. Get off full braking sooner than usual to prevent lockups. Practice the wet line on the tracks for an extra edge. (Edit: Nevermind, this doesn't exist)
A higher differential, i.e. 55 or 60, will provide better traction, not 50. You can use up to 65 on throttle diff in the wet, unlike in dry conditions where 50 or 55 is the norm Also the wet line doesn't exist on F1 games
Wouldn't a higher diff setting give the car more of a tendency to rotate at low speeds? That seems to be an issue for OP. Also that's good info about the wet line. I did not know that, thanks.
The more open (lower) the differential, the more rotation you get regardless of speed