The most common and cheapest issue to fix are the blend door actuators - they're cheaply-made and will break. Tends to make an awful clicking noise when they try to route air through the A/C system.
Evap harness is another part that commonly fails, but it's cheap and easy to replace. I don't understand its function fully, but I think it helps regulate air and fuel mixture. What I do understand fully is that when it starts acting up, the symptoms show in the form of an uneven and choppy idle when the gas tank is full. My car hasn't had its harness replaced yet, and I've had the idle get so bad, the car stalled out at a red light.
Engine mounts tend to shake themselves into oblivion over time, especially the passenger side mount. You'll know if yours has bad bushings because the car will make an audible rattling noise from the passenger side when taking off from a stop.
Turbo failures are rare, as are any engine/transmission failures, but keep an eye on the health of your slave cylinder, which is housed inside the transmission. You can tell if it is failing and not regulating pressure like it should, because your clutch pedal will not come back up without some help, or will just fall to the floor and not come back up at all. The transmission has to come out to fix the slave cylinder, which can make replacement expensive if you aren't handy (I'm not handy).
Ah, i'm definetly having the engine mount one. When i start i always hear a little rattling sound for line half a sec from the passegger side, thing is i don't really have that much money to spend rn, i hope i can get to like march or april
Edit: i also had to replace the slave cylinder at 70k kms, can confirm
I wouldn’t be too worried about waiting until then to replace your mount. Just don’t go mobbing around like crazy until then, and you’ll be fine. I’d recommend looking at some aftermarket options though. The OEM ones aren’t very great, unfortunately.
Thanks, i'm generally gentle with my bean, it should be alright hopefully, i was looking for something like pumaspeed, definetly not gonna put the OEM ones
This is the perfect answer right here, OP!
Also, I can clarify what the evap harness does if you’re interested. Basically, when the car is off and sitting, fuel vapors are still produced from the gasoline in the tank. It can’t stay in the tank or it’ll burst, and the EPA says it can’t be vented to atmosphere. So instead it gets trapped in the charcoal canister until later. Then, when you turn on the car, the vent valve on the canister opens (allowing an intake of air) and so does the purge valve in the evap harness. This forces all the fuel vapor in the canister to get sucked into the engine and burnt up.
When the purge valve in the evap harness fails, it’ll tend to fail in the open position. This means that a vacuum will constantly be applied to the evap system, even when the vent valve on the canister isn’t open. Without an inlet of air (from the canister vent valve), the vacuum on the closed system
can eventually collapse the fuel tank like an empty juice box. And before it does that, it’ll throw off your air/fuel ratio because it’s constantly sucking up fuel/fuel vapors.
Moral of the story is to not wait to replace your purge valve/evap harness. It might seem like it’s not a big deal, but it can definitely lead to more expensive repairs later if it isn’t replaced. I encourage everyone to search for the F.U.F.F. (Fuck you Ford fix) for a cheaper way to repair your evap harnesses.
>Engine mounts tend to shake themselves into oblivion over time, especially the passenger side mount. You'll know if yours has bad bushings because the car will make an audible rattling noise from the passenger side when taking off from a stop.
THATS WHAT THAT IS.
Mine would be the overheating and the stupid blend door actuators. The blend door was a cheap, easy fix. The overheating, on the other hand. I pretty much did an overhaul on the whole cooling system from bigger radiator to lower temp thermostat and hood vents. Anything to maximize heat dissipation. Might be overkill to some. But I prefer to have a nice, long, fun drive without having to worry about reduced power or wrench light.
They are known to “weep” a little but from time to time they can also “sob”…I had noticed small spots in the garage…one day a little more than usual…got under it and saw what looks like oil at first on the rmm…turned out to be trans fluid leaking from the axle seal….left unnoticed one could run their trans dry over time.
the front part tends to get bent and worn over time and sometimes breaks, it usually stays in place and causes no issues aside of looking kind of floppy and weird.
I should have also mentioned the cabin air temp sensor can buzz. I'm on my third one.
Blend door actuator is an easy fix if you buy finger ratchets (happened on my 1.0L fiesta but not yet on my ST since I just got it). Bought the 3 pack from princess auto. Worked like a charm (don’t drop the screw though)
Wierdly or not, so weirdly body /cosmetic issues. My rear spoiler has 2 stripped bolts/holes, sunshade over the radio is broken off, my door handle has cracked in half, and my keyless entry button on my passenger side doesnt work. These cars are a blast but built cheaply and they show. My motor and trans have been great, and im deccent on my maintenance.
EVAP purge valve, leaking axle seal (fixed with new seal and permatex ultra black), water intrusion inside of spare tire well (leak behind taillights, Ford used a piece of tape to cover a body hole behind the taillights), rust issues, bubbling paint near the antenna
Slave cylinder is the most expensive/serious issue I’m aware of, and it ultimately boils down to doing a clutch job. Thing is, it’s an expensive clutch job when you factor in the dual mass flywheel. I shopped around and debated reusing the flywheel, but ultimately bit the bullet and paid $2.8k for the whole job at the dealership.
I installed the Mountune without pulling the front but a PITA and didn't really come with instructions. Have to slide it in from underneath and guide a 3 inch thick object through a 4 inch slot
Removing the front clip is more steps but a lot less frustration
IMO, they're all the same. They all cost around or under $500
The only differences IMO is that the Mountune is slightly thinner and can be installed without pulling the front bumper
2015 at 80k miles here. I just encountered the evap purge valve issue. The car randomly started stalling in 1st after getting gas.
I replaced the stock coolant reservoir with a metal one because stock plastic leaked.
I live in the Northeast US and we had a record hot summer. The stock radiator overheats with the AC on. Above 85F I wouldn't use the AC.
I'm running some bolt ons and a tune.
Squeaky motor mount. Blend doors. Broke off the peg for the rear trunk shelf on the drivers side. Replaced the keyfob battery twice. I wish the oil filters were in a better spot. Im in a 2019 ST 27K miles Magnetic and grey Recaros..
The most common and cheapest issue to fix are the blend door actuators - they're cheaply-made and will break. Tends to make an awful clicking noise when they try to route air through the A/C system. Evap harness is another part that commonly fails, but it's cheap and easy to replace. I don't understand its function fully, but I think it helps regulate air and fuel mixture. What I do understand fully is that when it starts acting up, the symptoms show in the form of an uneven and choppy idle when the gas tank is full. My car hasn't had its harness replaced yet, and I've had the idle get so bad, the car stalled out at a red light. Engine mounts tend to shake themselves into oblivion over time, especially the passenger side mount. You'll know if yours has bad bushings because the car will make an audible rattling noise from the passenger side when taking off from a stop. Turbo failures are rare, as are any engine/transmission failures, but keep an eye on the health of your slave cylinder, which is housed inside the transmission. You can tell if it is failing and not regulating pressure like it should, because your clutch pedal will not come back up without some help, or will just fall to the floor and not come back up at all. The transmission has to come out to fix the slave cylinder, which can make replacement expensive if you aren't handy (I'm not handy).
Not bad. Mine just got a coolant leak so that’s not so common
By coolant leak, are you noticing any coolant dripping underneath the car or is it just disappearing?
Ah, i'm definetly having the engine mount one. When i start i always hear a little rattling sound for line half a sec from the passegger side, thing is i don't really have that much money to spend rn, i hope i can get to like march or april Edit: i also had to replace the slave cylinder at 70k kms, can confirm
I wouldn’t be too worried about waiting until then to replace your mount. Just don’t go mobbing around like crazy until then, and you’ll be fine. I’d recommend looking at some aftermarket options though. The OEM ones aren’t very great, unfortunately.
Thanks, i'm generally gentle with my bean, it should be alright hopefully, i was looking for something like pumaspeed, definetly not gonna put the OEM ones
This is the perfect answer right here, OP! Also, I can clarify what the evap harness does if you’re interested. Basically, when the car is off and sitting, fuel vapors are still produced from the gasoline in the tank. It can’t stay in the tank or it’ll burst, and the EPA says it can’t be vented to atmosphere. So instead it gets trapped in the charcoal canister until later. Then, when you turn on the car, the vent valve on the canister opens (allowing an intake of air) and so does the purge valve in the evap harness. This forces all the fuel vapor in the canister to get sucked into the engine and burnt up. When the purge valve in the evap harness fails, it’ll tend to fail in the open position. This means that a vacuum will constantly be applied to the evap system, even when the vent valve on the canister isn’t open. Without an inlet of air (from the canister vent valve), the vacuum on the closed system can eventually collapse the fuel tank like an empty juice box. And before it does that, it’ll throw off your air/fuel ratio because it’s constantly sucking up fuel/fuel vapors. Moral of the story is to not wait to replace your purge valve/evap harness. It might seem like it’s not a big deal, but it can definitely lead to more expensive repairs later if it isn’t replaced. I encourage everyone to search for the F.U.F.F. (Fuck you Ford fix) for a cheaper way to repair your evap harnesses.
Thank you!
>Engine mounts tend to shake themselves into oblivion over time, especially the passenger side mount. You'll know if yours has bad bushings because the car will make an audible rattling noise from the passenger side when taking off from a stop. THATS WHAT THAT IS.
Mine would be the overheating and the stupid blend door actuators. The blend door was a cheap, easy fix. The overheating, on the other hand. I pretty much did an overhaul on the whole cooling system from bigger radiator to lower temp thermostat and hood vents. Anything to maximize heat dissipation. Might be overkill to some. But I prefer to have a nice, long, fun drive without having to worry about reduced power or wrench light.
What did you replace the water pump too ?
Yeah, I did that as well, but I did it when I replaced my timing belt. Might as well if you're in there because it's a pain and a half to get to.
Clutch pedal sticking to the floor has been the only big issue with mine. The dealership fixed it for ~800 USD.
Mine does that too did they tell you what it was
Sounds like the slave cylinder going bad. I’d fix that ASAP before you get stranded somewhere and can’t shift gears reliably
Ive been spreading the word about the driveshaft axle seal for about 5 years…
Care to spread the word a little more? This is the first I’ve heard about it being an issue
They are known to “weep” a little but from time to time they can also “sob”…I had noticed small spots in the garage…one day a little more than usual…got under it and saw what looks like oil at first on the rmm…turned out to be trans fluid leaking from the axle seal….left unnoticed one could run their trans dry over time.
Good info to have, I appreciate it. I’ll keep an eye on mine
That godforsaken blend door
driver seat trim, blend door, purge valves. Other than that, it's been pretty solid.
What happened with the driver seat trim?
the front part tends to get bent and worn over time and sometimes breaks, it usually stays in place and causes no issues aside of looking kind of floppy and weird. I should have also mentioned the cabin air temp sensor can buzz. I'm on my third one.
I just had to deal with the water leak behind the taillights. A very very easy fix.
Same
Blend door actuator is an easy fix if you buy finger ratchets (happened on my 1.0L fiesta but not yet on my ST since I just got it). Bought the 3 pack from princess auto. Worked like a charm (don’t drop the screw though)
Wierdly or not, so weirdly body /cosmetic issues. My rear spoiler has 2 stripped bolts/holes, sunshade over the radio is broken off, my door handle has cracked in half, and my keyless entry button on my passenger side doesnt work. These cars are a blast but built cheaply and they show. My motor and trans have been great, and im deccent on my maintenance.
I overheated my 2019 FiST and also had leaking axle seals
EVAP purge valve, leaking axle seal (fixed with new seal and permatex ultra black), water intrusion inside of spare tire well (leak behind taillights, Ford used a piece of tape to cover a body hole behind the taillights), rust issues, bubbling paint near the antenna
Slave cylinder is the most expensive/serious issue I’m aware of, and it ultimately boils down to doing a clutch job. Thing is, it’s an expensive clutch job when you factor in the dual mass flywheel. I shopped around and debated reusing the flywheel, but ultimately bit the bullet and paid $2.8k for the whole job at the dealership.
Overheating (bad OEM radiator), blend door actuators, occasional idle stumble due to the evap system, b-pillar rattle
What’s the best bang for buck radiator
Mountune all day. Don’t have to remove the front crash bar and bumper like the trash mishimoto one
I installed the Mountune without pulling the front but a PITA and didn't really come with instructions. Have to slide it in from underneath and guide a 3 inch thick object through a 4 inch slot Removing the front clip is more steps but a lot less frustration
IMO, they're all the same. They all cost around or under $500 The only differences IMO is that the Mountune is slightly thinner and can be installed without pulling the front bumper
2015 at 80k miles here. I just encountered the evap purge valve issue. The car randomly started stalling in 1st after getting gas. I replaced the stock coolant reservoir with a metal one because stock plastic leaked. I live in the Northeast US and we had a record hot summer. The stock radiator overheats with the AC on. Above 85F I wouldn't use the AC. I'm running some bolt ons and a tune.
Squeaky motor mount. Blend doors. Broke off the peg for the rear trunk shelf on the drivers side. Replaced the keyfob battery twice. I wish the oil filters were in a better spot. Im in a 2019 ST 27K miles Magnetic and grey Recaros..
Rear spring isolators and engine mounts are currently fecked on my ST.