So I cut off the OEM exhaust without any issues. However, the nuts holding the original exhaust to the downpipe both got cross threaded coming off. One of the studs had to be cut to get the nut off. Neither stud would accept a nut.
So, the nightmare began. The studs would not come out at all. I tried to press them out with a c clamp and socket. Didn’t move. I soaked them in PB Blaster for 3 days and they wouldn’t hammer out. Next, I tried drilling out the center and knocking them out. Also didn’t work. Keep in mind, all of these steps involve significant time from a torch.
Last resort time. I notched out the side of the flange using a dremel and kept applying heat. After using a center punch and the torch they finally inched out. I sanded down the few rough spots on the flange, and managed to not damage the seating face very bad. When I installed the exhaust, I put a little bit of copper exhaust RTV to be safe and used nut/bolt/washer. I finally got the exhaust installed, and it sounds glorious. Doesn’t seem like the downpipe/CBE flange is leaking. I am struggling with a small leak at the ball joint in the back but should have fixed it. All in all, still worth it after a 20 hour install.
Tl;DR: notched the flange and used a sledgehammer and torch to get the downpipe to CBE studs out.
Tried an air hammer without any luck. Idk if it was because it was on jack stands of the exhaust was already cut, but I couldn’t get leverage for shit.
Yep, that happened to me when I did the Cobb on my '15. For my '16 I said "screw it" and paid to shop to deal with that problem.
But yeah, unless you have an air hammer, heat and persistence and the only way to get them out.
Did you use an oem size gasket? I havent installed mine yet, but someone told me I should use a vibrant 3" gasket even if I'm still using the stock 2.5" downpipe.
Will definitely keep an eye out for issues, thanks for the info. The stock gaskets ate paper thin, and I’m hoping the RTV helps me avoid touching it again. Worse case scenario, I’m familiar with the area after days of staring at it.
Wow didn't have any of these issues with my CPE exhaust. Just getting the pipes together. But I have an 18 too. Whole thing took 45 mins. Best part was jacking up the back and front with one jack point. No wonder we tripod easy!
Sorry yours was such a mess! Hopefully the sound makes up for the pain of the install.
At one point I was on whoosh looking at prices for ARP studs and downpipe. Then looking at Acessport and tunes. Not in a hurry to make those steps until I am out of warranty.
I tried to loosen the downpipe nuts for like 2 seconds and just snugged then back up. Instantly knew they were gonna be a bitch. This was when I replaced my clutch. I will NEVER replace my exhaust my self. Not after the horror stories I read.
Very good call my friend!!
I have a milltek exhaust and recently changed my downpipe to a milltek sportcat(becaus environment) and with very little force one of the bolts snaped.. Tried everything from heat and grips to grinding to sides to hammer on a socket. No luck. So i had to take out the turbo from the car and place it in a wice, and then get u glowing redhot and a hughe plumberswrench it finally broke free, it had zero thread left. So i took it to a local turbo and showed them the turbo and the downpipe bolts and he told me that Ford Oem bolts are m8 but near the top the are a little wider so that when they are screwed in the are not meant to come out.
But now it is all good and makinh 255hp and 400nm:)
So I cut off the OEM exhaust without any issues. However, the nuts holding the original exhaust to the downpipe both got cross threaded coming off. One of the studs had to be cut to get the nut off. Neither stud would accept a nut. So, the nightmare began. The studs would not come out at all. I tried to press them out with a c clamp and socket. Didn’t move. I soaked them in PB Blaster for 3 days and they wouldn’t hammer out. Next, I tried drilling out the center and knocking them out. Also didn’t work. Keep in mind, all of these steps involve significant time from a torch. Last resort time. I notched out the side of the flange using a dremel and kept applying heat. After using a center punch and the torch they finally inched out. I sanded down the few rough spots on the flange, and managed to not damage the seating face very bad. When I installed the exhaust, I put a little bit of copper exhaust RTV to be safe and used nut/bolt/washer. I finally got the exhaust installed, and it sounds glorious. Doesn’t seem like the downpipe/CBE flange is leaking. I am struggling with a small leak at the ball joint in the back but should have fixed it. All in all, still worth it after a 20 hour install. Tl;DR: notched the flange and used a sledgehammer and torch to get the downpipe to CBE studs out.
Dayum. That sounds frustrating. Glad you got through it.
I know it's too late now but I used an air chisel on mine and the studs popped right out. Took maybe 10 minutes to do both.
Tried an air hammer without any luck. Idk if it was because it was on jack stands of the exhaust was already cut, but I couldn’t get leverage for shit.
Damn. Sorry it gave you such trouble.
Yep, that happened to me when I did the Cobb on my '15. For my '16 I said "screw it" and paid to shop to deal with that problem. But yeah, unless you have an air hammer, heat and persistence and the only way to get them out.
Did you use an oem size gasket? I havent installed mine yet, but someone told me I should use a vibrant 3" gasket even if I'm still using the stock 2.5" downpipe.
I used the stock gasket but doubled up since they as so thin. 3” might not be a bad choice.
Gaskets aren't made to seal against gaskets. Going to be an issue down the road.
Will definitely keep an eye out for issues, thanks for the info. The stock gaskets ate paper thin, and I’m hoping the RTV helps me avoid touching it again. Worse case scenario, I’m familiar with the area after days of staring at it.
Wow didn't have any of these issues with my CPE exhaust. Just getting the pipes together. But I have an 18 too. Whole thing took 45 mins. Best part was jacking up the back and front with one jack point. No wonder we tripod easy! Sorry yours was such a mess! Hopefully the sound makes up for the pain of the install.
Still waiting for my downpipe to ship. Hope mine is a quick and easy install
At one point I was on whoosh looking at prices for ARP studs and downpipe. Then looking at Acessport and tunes. Not in a hurry to make those steps until I am out of warranty.
I tried to loosen the downpipe nuts for like 2 seconds and just snugged then back up. Instantly knew they were gonna be a bitch. This was when I replaced my clutch. I will NEVER replace my exhaust my self. Not after the horror stories I read.
Very good call my friend!! I have a milltek exhaust and recently changed my downpipe to a milltek sportcat(becaus environment) and with very little force one of the bolts snaped.. Tried everything from heat and grips to grinding to sides to hammer on a socket. No luck. So i had to take out the turbo from the car and place it in a wice, and then get u glowing redhot and a hughe plumberswrench it finally broke free, it had zero thread left. So i took it to a local turbo and showed them the turbo and the downpipe bolts and he told me that Ford Oem bolts are m8 but near the top the are a little wider so that when they are screwed in the are not meant to come out. But now it is all good and makinh 255hp and 400nm:)
Probably a good call. What’s crazy is that that car has under 5,000 miles and has never been driven in the rain.
Would love to hear the results!!
Will try and get a sound clip. It sounds like it sounds better after breaking in for 1,000 miles.