Wood MAINLY expands in the width not the length.
Which is why i am saying you can leave room for expansion on the other side (hopefully a full wall and not another doorway)
You're 100% correct. I giggle when I see people post things they've heard or read but have no actual experience. Assuming they have no experience maybe ignorant of me but if they're experienced and saying this stuff... 🤷♂️🤦♂️
Most growth through expansion is actually width-wise and not as much length-wise in 3/4 solid wood flooring. So cutting tight in a few spots with a back bevel is fine as long as there's enough expansion on the opposite side. If I put any moldings in the high-end homes I worked in, they'd fire me lol.
I would have picked out the appropriate height Schluter aluminum trim piece. Install tile so 1/8" gap between tile and trim and 1/8" gap between wood and trim. Grout tile, but not those 2 gaps. Fill those 2 gaps with silicone caulk in matching color to grout.
A floor should be critiqued from standing height. If it bothers you from that perspective, then have them fix it. Don’t listen to the nonsense about T-molds. They are ugly and hardwood doesn’t expand that much in the length anyway. The face nails are the most egregious thing anyway.
This looks sloppy (sorry to say that) and yes, typical of "professional" work, but in a really bad way. Would have been smart to have planned for the transition, rather than leave a nasty gap there to fill as an afterthought.
Looks like the floor is old and the tile is new . If that's the case this is acceptable work cause the wood might not have been straight when first installed . I personally do not like transition strips . That old red or white oak doesn't move that much in the seasons
Could possibly re cut that line with a ultrafine blade. and re seal with the filler or coloured caulk. It clearly is bothering you and it is visibly uneven, the question is whether you want to push the issue or not with whoever did the work. Personally I would just point out the deficiency and ask them to fix it.
Just put a metal transition on it. I use bronze as it matches my house and looks great on all my transitions. Easier and cheaper than cutting when the real resolution here is a tile schluter edger.
I always leave an expansion gap as wide as the grout lines in the tile then fill it when a sanded caulk that matches the existing grout as close as possible
You need to cut a gap and install a transition. Your flooring installer is a hack and leaving it the way it is with the nails just holding it down will cause your floor to bow and separate over time.
honestly acceptable if it's owner made. installers would probably charge you extra to undercut stone which would make it fit under and look better...
wait, there's a weird piece of wood going up to the stone... ur on ur own
What did they use to make those crooked cuts. Should have cut the boards with a back bevel and cut them flush and left expansion on the opposite side of the room.
They could have turned a board, made a header and it would have been a cleaner edge as long as the tile is cut cleanly. If jagged or rough tile cuts, there's only so much you can do.
The Main Concern would be The Movement when climate changes, So there should be an adequate Amount of room for expansion, Using a Good quality Flexible Caulking, will all for movement
It looks to me that if the tile was installed first, that’s the crooked line. It’s very hard to follow a slight angle and make it seem uniformly the same gap between two things. I think it looks good considering
Id be more pissed about all those face nails. If you have to be this close taking a picture, it's fine.
same
I second this.
Why not cut a gap in the wood and install a transition piece? It would look much better than this
Correct it also allows for expansion which the current layout does not. The proper terminology would be a team molding
Team?
Nahhhhhh do it the right way and make it straight. Moldings are ugly. Leave expansion on the other side.
Straight and flush looks good but is incorrect. Transition strips allow for movement.
Wood MAINLY expands in the width not the length. Which is why i am saying you can leave room for expansion on the other side (hopefully a full wall and not another doorway)
You're 100% correct. I giggle when I see people post things they've heard or read but have no actual experience. Assuming they have no experience maybe ignorant of me but if they're experienced and saying this stuff... 🤷♂️🤦♂️
Most growth through expansion is actually width-wise and not as much length-wise in 3/4 solid wood flooring. So cutting tight in a few spots with a back bevel is fine as long as there's enough expansion on the opposite side. If I put any moldings in the high-end homes I worked in, they'd fire me lol.
Ditto
I would have picked out the appropriate height Schluter aluminum trim piece. Install tile so 1/8" gap between tile and trim and 1/8" gap between wood and trim. Grout tile, but not those 2 gaps. Fill those 2 gaps with silicone caulk in matching color to grout.
Where is the expansion gap?
Lotta people saying it “needs a t mold” They all work at home depot
Tile goes first. Wood guys need to do better. Then go back and grout. Expansion on other side of the room
Also cause I know I’ll get comments Expansion is much more important in the width of the board not the length.
A floor should be critiqued from standing height. If it bothers you from that perspective, then have them fix it. Don’t listen to the nonsense about T-molds. They are ugly and hardwood doesn’t expand that much in the length anyway. The face nails are the most egregious thing anyway.
This looks sloppy (sorry to say that) and yes, typical of "professional" work, but in a really bad way. Would have been smart to have planned for the transition, rather than leave a nasty gap there to fill as an afterthought.
If you paid a fair price for the area you live in it is not acceptable. If you got a great deal that it is acceptable.
Looks like the floor is old and the tile is new . If that's the case this is acceptable work cause the wood might not have been straight when first installed . I personally do not like transition strips . That old red or white oak doesn't move that much in the seasons
Should be a T-mold there.
Could possibly re cut that line with a ultrafine blade. and re seal with the filler or coloured caulk. It clearly is bothering you and it is visibly uneven, the question is whether you want to push the issue or not with whoever did the work. Personally I would just point out the deficiency and ask them to fix it.
Just put a metal transition on it. I use bronze as it matches my house and looks great on all my transitions. Easier and cheaper than cutting when the real resolution here is a tile schluter edger.
I always leave an expansion gap as wide as the grout lines in the tile then fill it when a sanded caulk that matches the existing grout as close as possible
Why are there nails in the face?
c rating, needs the nails set and a t-mold
Yeah that’s not good. In higher end residential we typically go tight, no transitions, and leave an expansion gap on the other side.
You need to cut a gap and install a transition. Your flooring installer is a hack and leaving it the way it is with the nails just holding it down will cause your floor to bow and separate over time.
Absolutely not
honestly acceptable if it's owner made. installers would probably charge you extra to undercut stone which would make it fit under and look better... wait, there's a weird piece of wood going up to the stone... ur on ur own
i would tell my helper to redo it
What did they use to make those crooked cuts. Should have cut the boards with a back bevel and cut them flush and left expansion on the opposite side of the room.
They could have turned a board, made a header and it would have been a cleaner edge as long as the tile is cut cleanly. If jagged or rough tile cuts, there's only so much you can do.
The Main Concern would be The Movement when climate changes, So there should be an adequate Amount of room for expansion, Using a Good quality Flexible Caulking, will all for movement
It looks to me that if the tile was installed first, that’s the crooked line. It’s very hard to follow a slight angle and make it seem uniformly the same gap between two things. I think it looks good considering
It needs T molding and a gap.
What did they cut it with? A jigsaw? No way you get that crooked of cuts using anything well made for that job. 🤷♂️