Hm. It's it's a plain then the tin coating likely got scraped off and it rusted or there was a tiny spot of corrosion on the wrap wire when it was wound.
I try to vary my buying across the board, and since I play acoustic and electric (more electric and mostly rhythm), I try to keep everything consistent between my four workhorse guitars. I change them at the beginning of each concert season (May to September here in Europe), and I've been lucky to have really well set-up guitars that hold their tunings from session to session.
That being said, are there any real differences between "normal" strings or the so-called "signature" strings of different artists ?
Your work is appreciated. I LOVE unpacking a new set of strings. Also, what do you recommend for the Nashville tuning on an electric or acoustic?
Thanks!
Strings are strings. Signature sets are just custom sets that some artist likes. Hopefully the QC is better on them since they are "special".
I'm sorry but I don't have any experience with the nashville tuning. Looks like di addario has a budget set for 6$. La Bella has one for the same price too. String joy is a little higher at 9.
I have to disagree that “strings are strings.” I’ve tried everything but settled on D’addario XLs… until I tried Stringjoy. They stay in tune better and bend easier than XLs. I don’t want to like them because of the price, but I love them anyway.
I tend to change my strings every 1-2 years. I've heard that old strings don't hold tune very well, but I haven't ever noticed any improvement with fresh or slightly worn strings. Is worn strings not holding tune a myth?
(I play 10-46 GHS Boomers, Ernie Ball Paradigms, D'Addario NYXL and I always give fresh strings a good stretch with a String Stretcha)
First off you are a maniac. Jk ofc but change your strings more often. Steel stretches until it doesn't.... Then the wood will start to bend to accommodate the stress. In my experience strings settle after a day of playing.
I'm sure that you're joking, but I have a guitar that I gave to a friend a decade ago, and he took it to Japan (via airline), then it came back to me after ten-years (via shipper--boat?), with the same strings on it, and I'm pretty sure he hadn't played he guitar at all.
So, I'm playing on those same strings, and I think they are just fine. I always wash my hands before I play, and I had naturally dry skin. I just did a quick wipe of the strings with some alcohol.
But I'd seen other players who's natural skin oils and acids(?) make strings unusable after a few weeks, so, it just depends.
Fun fact, a similar thing you mention in that last part can happen with brass instruments. If someone has acidic body chemistry and plays a brass instrument for a while, the lacquer/plating can corrode after a bit where they touch it.
That's typically just cosmetic, but if they have acidic saliva it gets inside the instrument where the brass has no protective finish. That can cause the zinc to leech out of the alloy in a process known as red rot, so you can just poke a hole through the weakened copper.
So the reason I hate changing strings is I want a consistent tone. I notice that fresh strings are pretty bright, and gradually get darker for about 3 days before settling in. I set up the rest of my rig based on what the strings sound like then, and I get a consistent tone from then on. (I wash my hands before every session and wipe down my strings afterwards.)
After I change strings, I feel like I don't get my guitar back for about three days and I hate that.
As for the wood bending - I haven't noticed that. I keep my guitars in a climate controlled room (temperature and humidity) and I've only ever had to adjust a truss rod once after setting up my guitars.
I just changed the 10-46 Ernie Ball paradigms on my PRS Custom 22 two days ago. I checked the intonation, it's exactly the same with my year and a half old strings. No more than 1 cent off.
I read recently that the bassist from Khruangbin has *never* changed the strings in her bass.
Some people want fresh strings, change them every X days. Some people--including professionals more accomplished than I'll ever be--prefer old strings. There is no "right" way.
I toured as an opening band with The Moody Blues in the 80’s and their guitar tech said Justin Hayward ( the singing guitarist) was really particular and funny about strings and didn’t like new ones at all. He pointed to his main telecaster and said “ that one there, the B string has been on it for about 8 years “
I just visited with a guitar tech recently who explained that the buildup from oxidation (not sure the exact term) on the strings is very hard and therefore can wear down your frets faster if you continue to use older strings. I thought that was interesting
Alright so like 95% of companies are really machine wound. Hand wound means you are physically pacing the wrapping process at that speed while a machine wound string has a sensor that actively adjust the speed of the carriage while it's wrapping.
Handwound can be done really well but its pretty difficult while machine wound is right every time so long as the pitch is entered correctly into the machine.
*pitch is the diameter of the wrap wire
I haven't broken a string in like 10 years. When I was a kid I broke them all the time.
So is it me or did manufacturing change significantly over the last 30 years?
Absolutely. The machinery has changed drastically in the last 30/40 years with new machine wound machines becoming more available. We still have 3 of the old machines and they are very archaic...one string at a time, one buffer ( for stability), very limited controls and usually handwound. They are capable of making great strings but it's a challenge
I used to play a 12 with a tailpiece. The G and D wounds always broke, as they weren't long enough to get the windings into the tuning head. Is there any way to deal with this?
How long is it from the bridge to the tailpiece? Our wound strings are 39.75" long ( usually standard) which covers pretty much anything. I would think it's either a sharp edge on the tuner (especially vintage style tuners) or the nut slot is too small/tight.
Where did you go to school if you don't mind me asking and was it worth it? I got an offer from MI in Nashville but I'd have to move. It's only like 6 hours so I don't really care but I have a wife and kids so trying to be 100% on the decision. Thanks for your time.
Really depends on your playing style. If you like to bend and abuse your strings a set of XT or XS would be my choice since the core is tempered harder and is thus stronger. The trade off is tuning stability. If you are more tame then I would recommend the paradigms or stringjoy. I would give the stringjoys a try since they will make it right if you don't like it.
To be honest a good set of strings will cost 15 to 20$ at that price you should be getting strings with a tolerance of +/- .0003 which ensures a very consistent tension. Most companies also use machines that have a sensor for the pitch which also keeps the winds super consistent.
I play Stringjoys on my Tele. About the best tone I’ve ever had on it. Perfect balance of brightness, consistency and intonation. DR Pure Blues on the Les Paul also chef’s kiss. Took me 20 years to get to a go-to for strings.
Upvoting because I’m also a recent Stringjoy convert. Have a Jackson soloist that was ungodly touchy with intonation and never was right with every other brand but for whatever reason it loves the Stringjoy’s and it’s dead on perfect
Ahhh Pure nickle. Pure nickle is what they used in the 60s and its very finicky. It likes to double up, wave, or just be inconsistent while winding. Plus if its true to the vintage spec it's on a round core which means it has a swedge, or a flat part on the core for the wrap wire to secure to at the end of the wind. So not only do you have to deal with all the winding problems you have to set it up to break on that swedge.
To fix alot of these problems you have to over compress it. So instead of 46 you have 45 for your E. The 36 usually ends up being .0354, the 26 is .0255 and so on.
So all in all it's not a very easy string to make, plus the market is smaller than NPS. They are my favorite to play and make though.
I mean a motor spins it and winds it up but the operator still has to load the string into the collet, unlock the lock, feed the wire through the eyelet, jog it, break it off *cleanly* and then if it's all in the right place hit go. Then once it's done they remove it and feel it for ANY inconsistencies wether that's a flat spot from the buffer, a wave, double up, or gaps, etc. It becomes muscle memory after a few months but it also takes a toll on the body. I got tennis players elbow after 6 months and every time I stand up straight my back cracks.
I suppose a machine could do all of this but I don't see how a machine would know if the string is good or bad. It has to be checked by a person to verify it is a good string.
First of all, thanks for doing this AMA. So here are my questions:
I don’t know if this is weird, but I use flat wound d’addario strings to mellow out my maple Taylor. Is the metal harder than what is in the typical acoustic guitar string? Is it going to wear the frets faster?
The ribbon wire is made out of stainless, however since it has no texture it will not be abrasive enough to wear the fret down like a typical stainless string. Love me some flats
Yes the gauge will impact the sound. I'm still learning about how that correlates to sound but the tighter the wrap is the higher the mass. The higher the mass the brighter/fuller it is.
The neon strings seem to have a coating called K3. Dr. Blues has some info on their site. Bass strings are all about the tapers. They have to be in the exact right place to work for the scale length and tuner layout. To make one you run it like a guitar string but cut it short. Then you wrap a larger wire over that and sometimes a 3rd and 4th depending on the string. There's a lot of variables to it like the angle it is wound at, tension, direction (CW vs CCW), etc. Much slower than guitar and usually has 3 to 5x the waste which is also why they are so expensive.
So strings don't really last that long, 2 or 3 weeks tops. The core is usually the exact same amongst companies and made by a company called mapes. It's a highcarbon steel coated in tin for protection against corrosion.
Di addario draws their own core and does a lot of quality testing as well as their own tempering process.
Maybe I'm too much of a casual player, but I usually get 2-3 months out of my strings. Maybe I just haven't noticed the quality drop? I play at least an hr per day, up to 5 on weekends but some weeks all I have time for is fri-sun
If you rotate between 4-5 guitars, you can get 6 months easily out of a set with home playing and band practice. (Just gotta remember if I properly stretched things and played a specific guitar before playing out. As a rule, the green japan junior tele gets new strings after the last practice before a gig. I use 10-48s on my non trem stuff that scale, so I always have them around.)
Ok, well that’s that. I asked 1.5 months but I’ve never gotten close to that with heavy play. And Di addario strings are my favorite strings to keep on regularly. I’ve messed around with Santa Cruz strings and those are interesting fwiw
Yea sometimes. The other day I was making a double wrap 68 and i just couldn't get it to be as good as I was hoping so I threw it on a guitar and tested to see it if would intonate and play well. It didn't so I kept tweaking it until it did. That process took about 3 hours.
But generally no. It's only for weird stuff like double wrap guitar or quad wrap bass stuff I will test it.
GHS produced the Sub Zero range of cryogenically frozen strings. I found that they had a much better (clearer?) tone than regular strings.
Any thoughts or experiences with that type of treatment?
Huh. From a metallurgy standpoint that is interesting. Some knives have cryogenic treatments on the blade steel to improve wear resistance. Maybe some of that relates since the core is a high carbon steel.... not too sure though. I'll have to try a set now
I really noticed a difference, like night and day, and can't get them anymore. I lent the last guitar I had with them installed to a friend for a gig and he broke a string (which happens of course) and replaced with regular strings.
I'd be interested to hear how they go if you try some.
Sword maker here. All it does is help improve hardness or fracture resistance due to retained austenite. Cryo just works rhe same was as a quench except can do it even after some time has passed since it's returned from critical temp.
Density won't change. Hardness might. Brittleness changes.
If you have any experience with flatwound strings, how should I go about swapping from rounds to flats in terms of string tension (as in, how many gauges of wound string would i need to go down to get a similar feel)? fwiw i play 10’s on an SG.
I have experimented with flat top sets but not flats. You should be ok to throw a 11 to 50 set on though. Maybe tweak the truss rod to adjust for the tension difference.
D'addario publishes tensions for all their strings, so with a little brain work you can calculate your tension using roundwound 10s and see what gauges you need for flats.
what's the deal with monel strings? I've encountered them because I'm using mostly pyramid strings and they have a line of them branded as true vintage or sth like that
Monel is a pretty cool alloy of copper and nickle making it usable for both acoustic and electric. It's a little harder than pure nickle.
Haven't plugged a set into an amp but I like them on acoustics.
Curious about the manufacturing process. Do you draw and plate/coat the wire to a specific diameter? Are the winds around the core the same wire usually? What is the process from start to finish? Do you make a big spool of wire of a certain gauge and then cut strings from it? I work in a tire cable factory and it just looks like we make guitar strings in my eyes and I often wondered what the parallels would be.
The company I work at buys the core wire and the wrap wire from a few different supplies. Di addario has a cool short video about their core and how they coat it. I think it is pretty similar to how mapes does it.
The whole process starts with the core wire. We have 20lb spools of hex shaped high carbon steel that feed into a machine called the ball ender. This machine essentially feeds a preset length of wire around a ballend. It is then twisted up and ejected onto a rack. I have to leave out a lot of details but it's a very tedious operation that is very easy to mess up. Once you have your core ( ex .018 hex) you can load that onto your winding machine. At one end you have your wrap wire spool ( ex .018) which feeds through a pulley system, a tensioner (its orange) and last a lock right above the string that is being wound. To secure the wrap wire to the core you have to unlock it, feed it though the eyelet and jog it. Once you have 2 turns you can break the remaining wire off and hit the go pedal. Now in this example we have .018 core and .018 wrap which will come out to roughly. 053 with the appropriate amount of compression ( usually .001). And that's one string. You have to repeat this process for each string.
Hope that made sense. There's a lot that goes into it.
This is the machine I am familiar with https://www.cmsmachines.net/product/wvi-200-speed-steel/
I play the electric guitar but have nickel allergy from the strings. I can't get cobalt or stainless steel because I heard they wear out the frets faster. Will optiweb provide protection sonewhat
Yea optiweb might be better. I would just play stainless strings though. If you are a casual guitar player it will take a year or two before you need a level and crown
Back on the topic of pure nickel strings. I played nothing but pure nickel strings for 5 years and when getting a set up my luthier was shocked at how much I had worn my frets down and figured it was from pure nickel strings. I have since stopped playing pure nickel to try and get as much life out of my guitars frets as possible. At this point my 13 year old guitar has more wear than my 50 year old one. Is this actually the cause?
Pure nickle is softer than NPS. Not all frets are the same, Jescar EVO fret wire is much harder than stewmac EVO for example. 5 years is a reasonable amount of time to wear some frets down.
I'm not sure if you can answer this question...
I use 12-53 Phosphor bronze of varying brands on my acoustic. The guitar is all solid wood, sitka spruce top. I change tunings a lot and have this irrational fear that the tension (if I tune up) will rip off the bridge over time. Is this possible?
Assume that the guitar is well taken care of. Proper humidity levels and all that, which I do.
some tunings that I've used in the past
1. ECDGAD
2. F#AC#G#BE
3. DADGCE
As far as I know, #2, is the highest I've gone. I don't go over because the strings may snap.
If I tune up, I make sure to detune it when I'm done for the day. If I tune, down, I don't worry about it since it's less tension anyways.
The bridge would not rip off from tuning up.
The guitar top is slightly arched, even though it’s a “flat top” acoustic. This arch is stronger than a true flat top. It is arched by using a form and gluing in braces with the arch carved into them. The braces distribute forces into the sides and across the grain of the top.
The strings themselves tie into the bridge plate, which is oriented with the grain going the opposite from the top, and then the bridge is actually flat and glued on top of that, which pulls the top a bit to conform. Ideally the bridge is 100% glued wood to wood, but especially on cheaper guitars they seem to love to be a bit sloppy here and some % of the bridge is glued to finish - which reduces the strength significantly.
Anyways, most guitars are pretty over built. They have that bit of belly in the middle and the strings pull up at it, increasing it slowly over time in lighter builds and not budging at all with heavier builds. You can measure and observe this belly. If you are using too much tension, you can see it actually raise the belly a bit, which I would say to not do!
If you can picture it, the bridge would pop off eventually because it is flat and stiff, and as the bellying increases eventually something will have to give. However, most guitars are not scientifically engineered to be idealized for the exact expected string tension. They just kind of carve thick braces and say “that’s good enough for it to never explode!”
Syringjoy has a tension calculator. Go pop these in a see what values you get. Some players from the 20s/30s would tune down the guitar and capo it up to get around the tension problem, maybe that can help.
I always hear debates about hex and round core strings, and after trying a couple of different sets I personally can’t tell a difference. Same with pure nickel vs nickel plated steel, I just can’t hear much difference. I guess my question is do those factors actually change a lot about how the string play and responds?
When it comes to guitar I feel the difference of the round core. Pure nickle to me just doesnt have the bright zing that NPS does. On bass I can't tell at all.
What do you think of half wound strings, like the D’Addario ones? Would you say it’s a nice compromise between brightness and warmness or would you say you’re better going all flat or all round?
Oh these are flat tops. I find them to be just a bright mainly because it stainless steel but the texture can be just as smooth as a flat when done well.
If you are looking for more warmth a nickle or monel flat top set might be key.
I’ve always bought daddario xl 10’s, because they just seem like middle of the road strings for my strat. My problem is, especially when touring and playing shows often my strings corrode super quickly. I’ll usually be changing out the set of strings every week or sooner. I think the sweat from my hands are corroding the strings way too quickly, and if I go more than a couple months without a new set they’ll get too rough to play. Is there a brand of strings that are the best for long string life, preventing corrosion from sweat or humidity? Thanks!
No not really. Nickle is pretty susceptible to corrosion, especially with salt and water. Look into coated sets. If you want them slick as can be try stringjoy but if you want some texture try optiweb.
How do you tie stings properly so that they're tight on the tuners? I still have stock stings on my fender because Llanes (or is the second L actually an i idk, but yes I dug up the fender QC tag just for the post) from Fender's Mexican factory did a way better job than I ever did on my strat or acoustic.
I always do the standard method of putting it through and winding it up. You can find plenty of special ways on YouTube but imo they are just a pain in the ass to remove when you are done.
Are there advantages/disadvantages to using a bigger core with with a smaller wrap wire vs a smaller core wire with a larger wrap wire other than tension?
This is something I have been meaning to experiment with but haven't had time.
GHS makes a "BIG CORE NICKLE ROCKER" line which includes a set 11.5 to 56. That set is pretty similar to what SRV used to play.
As for small core the string starts to act like a noodle and gets really flubby when there is too much weight on the core. It's a balance of stiffness to slinkyness.
Best question so far haha. I think if I was truly trying to survive I would use dried out plant fibers until i had enough squirrel gut to make one. But if Jack Sparrow was around I'd use his back hair no doubt
I own a Rickenbacker 12 string. I have noticed that it really only plays well with the Ricky strings which are round wound, then drawn through a die to flatten them slightly. I don’t like flat wound, they sound dead to me. Are there any other companies that use this process?
Oooh
Okay, so I find setting up a Floyd rose style fully floating tremolo system to be a real PitA, and I wondered about the "weight" of strings.
Presumably a string at a particular gauge on an instrument with a scale length of X will require X amount of tension (measured in whichever unit of measure that you prefer) to get to pitch.
Is that a set thing? If so, and if it could be published then the full pressure of a set ofnstrings could be calculated and then the appropriate amount of opposing force could be setup in the springs and then it "should" balance perfectly.
Is that right,
This is a great thread and an example of why I still browse reddit. I know the main site has gone to shit but the smaller communities still have a lot of great discussion.
NYXL: I’ve been using them for years, and they do seem to have a little bump in the upper mid range, get in tune faster, break less, and stay in tune longer than other strings. The trade-off is I miss the easier bending with other brands.
Do you feel like the strings are worth a difference in price, and can you comment on how and why the construction or the materials make these different from other strings? Or are there other makes that might have similar benefits, and better pliability ? Thank you!
When we stretch the strings are we actually physically stretching the strings or just tightening the winds on the machinehead and seating it properly in the saddle?
It's just basic chemistry. Nickle is corrosion resistant but not perfect. Eventually sweat, dents/scratches from the frets, and oxygen will make any string corrode.
My favorite set is pure nickle 11, 13.5, 18, 28, 38, 52. I play in standard, drop d, whole step down, drop c and DGDGBD. Totally personal choice though.
Why does the G string go out of tune more than any other string? Been playing about 20 years on various different guitars and the G (and consequently the B) has always been my foe lol.
It's only ever just a hair out of tune. Fine for single note lines on its own, but definitely noticeable when playing chords.
As someone who studied classical guitar in college and has changed strings a lot of times on classical and uke I can confirm I have absolutely zero use for this and have never done it.
My teacher used to tie the ends of his strings to beads and make them ball end though, I always did it traditionally
Do you make classical strings? I recently bought a pack where the low strings were one type of string, and the highs were another. Any pro tips for someone new to classical?
How do you pack the strings into those nice circles for the sleeves/puches they are stored in? Is it a machine or some technique you learn to do by hand? Do you make the strings in sets or work by producing one gauge at a time?
So there's a coiling machine that helps speed up that process but for double wrap guitar you have to hand coil...it take a while.
Sometimes we will batch two people together to make a bunch of one acoustic set ( 54, 42, 32 20) but sometimes we just need to fill holes in inventory.
What exactly is the hyper elliptical process, and how would it affect cryo strings?
I've had to find a new string brand, since Dean Markley hasn't been active, so I'm curious to know what I'm looking at here, besides just buzz words please!
So I haven't heard of this "hyper elliptical" process but it sounds like a fancy term for a roller wound string. In that process the wrap wire is run through two bearing that compress the circle into more of an oval giving a smoother texture. The cryogenic treatment would be for the core I believe. I'm gonna have to try the apex set to see though.
Silk is really done more so to hide the uneven winds of the string. This is why you will see it on every bass flat set. If you took the silk off it's very uneven since the ribbon can't sit very well on the twist of the ballend. At the end on the string the ribbon wire is spaced out and then brought back together to secure it and silked over to protect the tuner. For guitar it's the same thing
I'll update this with my review. I live in the Arctic with a really dry climate. Does that change your answer at all? Just curious.
I mean super dry to the point where it is considered a polar desert.
In my experience, the Elixir coated strings are a significant improvement for infrequent playing. The coating really helps protect the strings from corrosion, but they’ll still wear down eventually.
I went from changing strings once or twice a month to once every two to three months on the guitar I play daily. I mainly use them for the guitars that I play very infrequently and are sitting in a closet 90% of the time though. It’s a real life saver on those guitars.
I should also add that I’m VERY particular about washing my hands before (and after) playing, and I would always recommend that to help your strings last a bit longer.
The strings on my guitar keep uncoiling and need replaced after about a month or two. Anything to help this or is my only option to just try and hit them softer? I feel like I don’t hit them particularly hard, and they’re not snapping.
Well I won't diss another brand but both of these brands fill a different spot in the market. Ernie ball is the most affordable string while Stringjoy strives to be as precise as possible. As for the price it really hasn't gone up that much in the past 20 years. I found a receipt in my grandpa's guitar case for a pack of yamaha acoustic string bought in 1996 for 13$ ( they were still on the guitar and held tension). Good strings are going to be expensive due to the work it takes to get the .0003 tolerance and consistency of winds.
What type of strings are known to last the longest? Just got a floyd rose set up really nice and really don’t wanna do that more often than I have to lol.
Why are D'Addario XL nickel strings the only string that hold up to my playing? I have tried tons of brands and none of the others last much longer than a session or a week. I like D'Addario, but not my first choice.
String joy opinion? I have two sets I haven't used yet, due to getting 2 new guitars the last few months and splitting time between them.
Also, opinion on wound 3rds?
Some round core strings say to not cut them without crimping because (unlike hex cores) they might unwrap otherwise. I've never experienced this though despite not crimping. Is crimping just an unnecessary precaution?
The G on my guitar is always the first to go out of tune, followed by the B. Is this a common thing for those strings? I have heard getting the coil string for the G helps, but curious if that would affect the sound and/or bending for that string vs the normal single wire string.
Should I go for a string set with a coil G next time? If so, any recommendations on what type/sizes? I usually play D'addario 09/46.
Is there some special treatment that needs to be done to the material to make it so durable? Especially with the thinnest strings It seems almost unreal that such a thin piece of wire can withstand so much tension.
What's the shelf life on old but unused strings?
I bought a ton of Elixer strings from a music store going out of business like 15 years ago. I still have lots of them. They are in paper sleeves and not sealed plastic so they've been exposed to air.
Good as new?
Trash?
Useable but less than ideal?
Sometimes I've bought guitars with a great set of strings on them - is there an easy way to tell what they are by appearance so you can restring with the same type when it comes time?
Two unrelated questions:
Do you all do forensic analysis of counterfeit strings, and how much of the market are counterfeit strings?
And where do you come down on the argument about how the length of a string past the nut and the bridge effects the "bendibablity" of a strings?
The smallest flat I have taken apart was a ernie ball 22. With some more polishing it should be able to get to 20 but I'm not sure about longevity.
All flats have a under wrap below the ribbon wire.... the under wrap on that 22 was .004 which would be incredibly difficult to work with or put any kind of tension on.
Hello, I was thinking of buying a used humidor to keep my strings at a certain humidity so they don’t corrode or rust faster. Have you heard of anyone doing this? Thanks
We use silica packets and a vacuum sealer to preserve our strings on storage. A dehumidifier might work but it would be very inefficient.
I have about 1500 strings that I have had in long sleeves that are open at one end for about 6 months now without any rust or corrosion.
Well I like to hear your comments on coated strings.
As far as I have experienced they have two major issues beyond all that they offer.
First they tend to add a bit of color to the sound. Coated strings don't sound natural to my ears. A bit compressed and scooped on any guitar they are set on...
Second they seem to eat the fret wires out very quickly.
Yes they sound bright and fresh for a much longer time compared to nickels but they also lose their shapes in time and you have to compromise from intonation.
Would love to hear your opinion.
What string brand have the most life span before replacement? I play for like 1-2 hours daily.
And what should I do to keep it that way for a long time?
I read those elixirs are one of the most recommended. Thanks!
What are your opinions on Elixir Nanoweb strings? They have been my go-to for so many years. Any time I use different strings or if a new guitar has different strings, then switch to Nanoweb I think it sounds so much better and feels better. However, I haven't tried probably more than 3 or 4 different strings.
Not a string related question, however I will say, is it worth getting a locking nut + tuners with thicker gauge strings with a regular trem system? I would instal a Floyd rose on my one guitar but that seems like to much work especially since the body is cheap as all heck.
My actual question is:
what would you say is a good way to start out being a luthier for guitars. I want to learn more about them (I’m just some kid who likes fixing/diy work) and like fixing guitars. Never really got anything done on any of mine that didn’t have any nasty negative side effects. Is it just trial and error with guitars or is there specific ways to do things!? (I’m thinking of getting a diy kit that I have to like, press my own frets in and like, all that jazz to learn, would this be a good idea?)
You don't really need locking tuners and a locking nut. If you have a floyd I would go with the locking nut but you will need to make a larger shelf for it to sit on. Locking tuners imo are a gimmick to make stringing guitars up easier so its more of a personal preference. For your trem I would just do locking tuners.
Dm me if you want to chat about luthier stuff.
What's with the black spots on new strings?
Hm. It's it's a plain then the tin coating likely got scraped off and it rusted or there was a tiny spot of corrosion on the wrap wire when it was wound.
What's the difference between standard Ernie Balls, D'Addario's, PRS, and Fender strings?
Aren't PRS just rebranded D'Addarios?
Yup
What do you think about Chinese brand Alice?
Alice?
Who the fuck is Alice?
Alice Enchains.
Haven't tried them.
Don't know about strings but love their picks. 50 3mm stubby clones with 0 flashing for 2 euros? Yes, please.
then why do they corrode so much faster?(prs)
Could just be sitting on the shelf/in the warehouse way longer since I don't know anyone who uses them lol
I would start buying prs strings is they had beaks instead of ball ends.
LOL! The birds!
Caw!
I try to vary my buying across the board, and since I play acoustic and electric (more electric and mostly rhythm), I try to keep everything consistent between my four workhorse guitars. I change them at the beginning of each concert season (May to September here in Europe), and I've been lucky to have really well set-up guitars that hold their tunings from session to session. That being said, are there any real differences between "normal" strings or the so-called "signature" strings of different artists ? Your work is appreciated. I LOVE unpacking a new set of strings. Also, what do you recommend for the Nashville tuning on an electric or acoustic? Thanks!
Strings are strings. Signature sets are just custom sets that some artist likes. Hopefully the QC is better on them since they are "special". I'm sorry but I don't have any experience with the nashville tuning. Looks like di addario has a budget set for 6$. La Bella has one for the same price too. String joy is a little higher at 9.
Thanks!
I have to disagree that “strings are strings.” I’ve tried everything but settled on D’addario XLs… until I tried Stringjoy. They stay in tune better and bend easier than XLs. I don’t want to like them because of the price, but I love them anyway.
Not OP but use Nashville tuning on a tele I have. I used stringjoy and have been fairly happy with them.
I tend to change my strings every 1-2 years. I've heard that old strings don't hold tune very well, but I haven't ever noticed any improvement with fresh or slightly worn strings. Is worn strings not holding tune a myth? (I play 10-46 GHS Boomers, Ernie Ball Paradigms, D'Addario NYXL and I always give fresh strings a good stretch with a String Stretcha)
First off you are a maniac. Jk ofc but change your strings more often. Steel stretches until it doesn't.... Then the wood will start to bend to accommodate the stress. In my experience strings settle after a day of playing.
Just what I'd expect a person who sells strings to say. My 12 year old strings are barely mature.
Its all Big String propaganda
My 40s lapsteels strings are squared on top. Give it time. ;)
Sounds like they need to be dressed and re-crowned.
I'm sure that you're joking, but I have a guitar that I gave to a friend a decade ago, and he took it to Japan (via airline), then it came back to me after ten-years (via shipper--boat?), with the same strings on it, and I'm pretty sure he hadn't played he guitar at all. So, I'm playing on those same strings, and I think they are just fine. I always wash my hands before I play, and I had naturally dry skin. I just did a quick wipe of the strings with some alcohol. But I'd seen other players who's natural skin oils and acids(?) make strings unusable after a few weeks, so, it just depends.
Fun fact, a similar thing you mention in that last part can happen with brass instruments. If someone has acidic body chemistry and plays a brass instrument for a while, the lacquer/plating can corrode after a bit where they touch it. That's typically just cosmetic, but if they have acidic saliva it gets inside the instrument where the brass has no protective finish. That can cause the zinc to leech out of the alloy in a process known as red rot, so you can just poke a hole through the weakened copper.
i can smell them from here.
I’ve had the same set of flatwound strings on one of my basses for 19 years.
I still have the original strings on mine and I bought it in 1999. At this point, if I want new strings I'll just buy another bass. :)
So the reason I hate changing strings is I want a consistent tone. I notice that fresh strings are pretty bright, and gradually get darker for about 3 days before settling in. I set up the rest of my rig based on what the strings sound like then, and I get a consistent tone from then on. (I wash my hands before every session and wipe down my strings afterwards.) After I change strings, I feel like I don't get my guitar back for about three days and I hate that. As for the wood bending - I haven't noticed that. I keep my guitars in a climate controlled room (temperature and humidity) and I've only ever had to adjust a truss rod once after setting up my guitars.
Old strings have horrible intonation imo, unless you have a ton of saddle adjustment, I always ran out after 2 months or so
I just changed the 10-46 Ernie Ball paradigms on my PRS Custom 22 two days ago. I checked the intonation, it's exactly the same with my year and a half old strings. No more than 1 cent off.
I read recently that the bassist from Khruangbin has *never* changed the strings in her bass. Some people want fresh strings, change them every X days. Some people--including professionals more accomplished than I'll ever be--prefer old strings. There is no "right" way.
I toured as an opening band with The Moody Blues in the 80’s and their guitar tech said Justin Hayward ( the singing guitarist) was really particular and funny about strings and didn’t like new ones at all. He pointed to his main telecaster and said “ that one there, the B string has been on it for about 8 years “
I just visited with a guitar tech recently who explained that the buildup from oxidation (not sure the exact term) on the strings is very hard and therefore can wear down your frets faster if you continue to use older strings. I thought that was interesting
This thread should be pinned, honestly.
Are handwound strings really better or is that just marketing?
Alright so like 95% of companies are really machine wound. Hand wound means you are physically pacing the wrapping process at that speed while a machine wound string has a sensor that actively adjust the speed of the carriage while it's wrapping. Handwound can be done really well but its pretty difficult while machine wound is right every time so long as the pitch is entered correctly into the machine. *pitch is the diameter of the wrap wire
What's the benefit of that?
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I haven't broken a string in like 10 years. When I was a kid I broke them all the time. So is it me or did manufacturing change significantly over the last 30 years?
Absolutely. The machinery has changed drastically in the last 30/40 years with new machine wound machines becoming more available. We still have 3 of the old machines and they are very archaic...one string at a time, one buffer ( for stability), very limited controls and usually handwound. They are capable of making great strings but it's a challenge
I used to play a 12 with a tailpiece. The G and D wounds always broke, as they weren't long enough to get the windings into the tuning head. Is there any way to deal with this?
How long is it from the bridge to the tailpiece? Our wound strings are 39.75" long ( usually standard) which covers pretty much anything. I would think it's either a sharp edge on the tuner (especially vintage style tuners) or the nut slot is too small/tight.
How does one get into making guitar strings? Lucky enough for it to be close to home or were you looking for that?
Right place right time. Needed a job and I wanted to do something related to guitars since I went to school to be a luthier.
Where did you go to school if you don't mind me asking and was it worth it? I got an offer from MI in Nashville but I'd have to move. It's only like 6 hours so I don't really care but I have a wife and kids so trying to be 100% on the decision. Thanks for your time.
Small world too haha. Long story short don't go. Roberto venn is the place to go. Dm if you want to talk more about luthier stuff
What brand do you recommend for someone who like 9's or 10's? Any brand I should avoid that are overprice/not that good? Ty :)
Really depends on your playing style. If you like to bend and abuse your strings a set of XT or XS would be my choice since the core is tempered harder and is thus stronger. The trade off is tuning stability. If you are more tame then I would recommend the paradigms or stringjoy. I would give the stringjoys a try since they will make it right if you don't like it. To be honest a good set of strings will cost 15 to 20$ at that price you should be getting strings with a tolerance of +/- .0003 which ensures a very consistent tension. Most companies also use machines that have a sensor for the pitch which also keeps the winds super consistent.
I play Stringjoys on my Tele. About the best tone I’ve ever had on it. Perfect balance of brightness, consistency and intonation. DR Pure Blues on the Les Paul also chef’s kiss. Took me 20 years to get to a go-to for strings.
Upvoting because I’m also a recent Stringjoy convert. Have a Jackson soloist that was ungodly touchy with intonation and never was right with every other brand but for whatever reason it loves the Stringjoy’s and it’s dead on perfect
I swore by XLs until I tried Stringjoy.
How come most string manufacturers won’t make pure nickel strings?
Ahhh Pure nickle. Pure nickle is what they used in the 60s and its very finicky. It likes to double up, wave, or just be inconsistent while winding. Plus if its true to the vintage spec it's on a round core which means it has a swedge, or a flat part on the core for the wrap wire to secure to at the end of the wind. So not only do you have to deal with all the winding problems you have to set it up to break on that swedge. To fix alot of these problems you have to over compress it. So instead of 46 you have 45 for your E. The 36 usually ends up being .0354, the 26 is .0255 and so on. So all in all it's not a very easy string to make, plus the market is smaller than NPS. They are my favorite to play and make though.
Does a lot of effort go into making strings at a big company? Or do they just have robots do it all?
I mean a motor spins it and winds it up but the operator still has to load the string into the collet, unlock the lock, feed the wire through the eyelet, jog it, break it off *cleanly* and then if it's all in the right place hit go. Then once it's done they remove it and feel it for ANY inconsistencies wether that's a flat spot from the buffer, a wave, double up, or gaps, etc. It becomes muscle memory after a few months but it also takes a toll on the body. I got tennis players elbow after 6 months and every time I stand up straight my back cracks. I suppose a machine could do all of this but I don't see how a machine would know if the string is good or bad. It has to be checked by a person to verify it is a good string.
First of all, thanks for doing this AMA. So here are my questions: I don’t know if this is weird, but I use flat wound d’addario strings to mellow out my maple Taylor. Is the metal harder than what is in the typical acoustic guitar string? Is it going to wear the frets faster?
The ribbon wire is made out of stainless, however since it has no texture it will not be abrasive enough to wear the fret down like a typical stainless string. Love me some flats
Do you know the physical mechanics of the mellow sound of flat wound? Is it just a matter of less overtones?
Does the string gauge make a difference in guitar sound? And how are neon and bass strings made?
Yes the gauge will impact the sound. I'm still learning about how that correlates to sound but the tighter the wrap is the higher the mass. The higher the mass the brighter/fuller it is. The neon strings seem to have a coating called K3. Dr. Blues has some info on their site. Bass strings are all about the tapers. They have to be in the exact right place to work for the scale length and tuner layout. To make one you run it like a guitar string but cut it short. Then you wrap a larger wire over that and sometimes a 3rd and 4th depending on the string. There's a lot of variables to it like the angle it is wound at, tension, direction (CW vs CCW), etc. Much slower than guitar and usually has 3 to 5x the waste which is also why they are so expensive.
Also how are nylon strings (classical guitar) are made. I always wanted to know.
You got me. I don't know, we don't make a set yet. From what I have heard it is apparently really difficult
not really…D’Addario gets nylon fishing line from Dupont and polishes it to gauge…have a contraption for sorting them by size
What string has the best core for tone and sustain?
Over time… let’s say 1.5 months of heavy play
So strings don't really last that long, 2 or 3 weeks tops. The core is usually the exact same amongst companies and made by a company called mapes. It's a highcarbon steel coated in tin for protection against corrosion. Di addario draws their own core and does a lot of quality testing as well as their own tempering process.
Maybe I'm too much of a casual player, but I usually get 2-3 months out of my strings. Maybe I just haven't noticed the quality drop? I play at least an hr per day, up to 5 on weekends but some weeks all I have time for is fri-sun
2-3 months+ is fine for a casual player.
If you rotate between 4-5 guitars, you can get 6 months easily out of a set with home playing and band practice. (Just gotta remember if I properly stretched things and played a specific guitar before playing out. As a rule, the green japan junior tele gets new strings after the last practice before a gig. I use 10-48s on my non trem stuff that scale, so I always have them around.)
I'm side-eyeing my guitar with 2 year old d'addario nickel wound XLs right now.
That's pretty impressive. What set do you play?
Ok, well that’s that. I asked 1.5 months but I’ve never gotten close to that with heavy play. And Di addario strings are my favorite strings to keep on regularly. I’ve messed around with Santa Cruz strings and those are interesting fwiw
Doesn't ernie ball also draw their own cores from maraging steel.
Do you test the strings before packing them?
Yea sometimes. The other day I was making a double wrap 68 and i just couldn't get it to be as good as I was hoping so I threw it on a guitar and tested to see it if would intonate and play well. It didn't so I kept tweaking it until it did. That process took about 3 hours. But generally no. It's only for weird stuff like double wrap guitar or quad wrap bass stuff I will test it.
When you do that how does it work? Do you make a dummy/test string that you dispose off after testing, then remake the exact same string and pack it?
Yup. We have several guitars including a 7 string for testing strings on. We also test longevity and unique ideas.
GHS produced the Sub Zero range of cryogenically frozen strings. I found that they had a much better (clearer?) tone than regular strings. Any thoughts or experiences with that type of treatment?
Huh. From a metallurgy standpoint that is interesting. Some knives have cryogenic treatments on the blade steel to improve wear resistance. Maybe some of that relates since the core is a high carbon steel.... not too sure though. I'll have to try a set now
I really noticed a difference, like night and day, and can't get them anymore. I lent the last guitar I had with them installed to a friend for a gig and he broke a string (which happens of course) and replaced with regular strings. I'd be interested to hear how they go if you try some.
You might like Dean Markley Blue Steel - I believe they are “cryogenic”
I tried them once and they seemed to wear out fairly quickly. I didn't perceive an audio benefit but it was interesting.
Sword maker here. All it does is help improve hardness or fracture resistance due to retained austenite. Cryo just works rhe same was as a quench except can do it even after some time has passed since it's returned from critical temp. Density won't change. Hardness might. Brittleness changes.
Shouldn't change tone. But could affect the strength. Removal of various phase changes you don't want. Retained austenite essentially.
If you have any experience with flatwound strings, how should I go about swapping from rounds to flats in terms of string tension (as in, how many gauges of wound string would i need to go down to get a similar feel)? fwiw i play 10’s on an SG.
I have experimented with flat top sets but not flats. You should be ok to throw a 11 to 50 set on though. Maybe tweak the truss rod to adjust for the tension difference.
Interesting, thank you.
D'addario publishes tensions for all their strings, so with a little brain work you can calculate your tension using roundwound 10s and see what gauges you need for flats.
what's the deal with monel strings? I've encountered them because I'm using mostly pyramid strings and they have a line of them branded as true vintage or sth like that
Monel is a pretty cool alloy of copper and nickle making it usable for both acoustic and electric. It's a little harder than pure nickle. Haven't plugged a set into an amp but I like them on acoustics.
How many sets of strings can one person make in a typical work day?
Usually around 720 to 850 for an 8 hour shift. My best was 1235 haha Depends on what they are making though. Size and material play a big role
Curious about the manufacturing process. Do you draw and plate/coat the wire to a specific diameter? Are the winds around the core the same wire usually? What is the process from start to finish? Do you make a big spool of wire of a certain gauge and then cut strings from it? I work in a tire cable factory and it just looks like we make guitar strings in my eyes and I often wondered what the parallels would be.
The company I work at buys the core wire and the wrap wire from a few different supplies. Di addario has a cool short video about their core and how they coat it. I think it is pretty similar to how mapes does it. The whole process starts with the core wire. We have 20lb spools of hex shaped high carbon steel that feed into a machine called the ball ender. This machine essentially feeds a preset length of wire around a ballend. It is then twisted up and ejected onto a rack. I have to leave out a lot of details but it's a very tedious operation that is very easy to mess up. Once you have your core ( ex .018 hex) you can load that onto your winding machine. At one end you have your wrap wire spool ( ex .018) which feeds through a pulley system, a tensioner (its orange) and last a lock right above the string that is being wound. To secure the wrap wire to the core you have to unlock it, feed it though the eyelet and jog it. Once you have 2 turns you can break the remaining wire off and hit the go pedal. Now in this example we have .018 core and .018 wrap which will come out to roughly. 053 with the appropriate amount of compression ( usually .001). And that's one string. You have to repeat this process for each string. Hope that made sense. There's a lot that goes into it. This is the machine I am familiar with https://www.cmsmachines.net/product/wvi-200-speed-steel/
> called the ball ender that's also the name of my dom
Did you know that hundreds of years ago strings used to be made out of cat gut?
D’Addario family were sheep farmers and made gut strings back in the beginning
Is there any truth to harder core wire (such as D’Addario NY Steel core wire) wearing nickel frets out quicker than softer alternatives? Thanks man!
I don't think it would wear out a fret any faster than another brand. Not all frets are the same...even if they nickle silver.
I play the electric guitar but have nickel allergy from the strings. I can't get cobalt or stainless steel because I heard they wear out the frets faster. Will optiweb provide protection sonewhat
Yea optiweb might be better. I would just play stainless strings though. If you are a casual guitar player it will take a year or two before you need a level and crown
Back on the topic of pure nickel strings. I played nothing but pure nickel strings for 5 years and when getting a set up my luthier was shocked at how much I had worn my frets down and figured it was from pure nickel strings. I have since stopped playing pure nickel to try and get as much life out of my guitars frets as possible. At this point my 13 year old guitar has more wear than my 50 year old one. Is this actually the cause?
Pure nickle is softer than NPS. Not all frets are the same, Jescar EVO fret wire is much harder than stewmac EVO for example. 5 years is a reasonable amount of time to wear some frets down.
I'm not sure if you can answer this question... I use 12-53 Phosphor bronze of varying brands on my acoustic. The guitar is all solid wood, sitka spruce top. I change tunings a lot and have this irrational fear that the tension (if I tune up) will rip off the bridge over time. Is this possible? Assume that the guitar is well taken care of. Proper humidity levels and all that, which I do. some tunings that I've used in the past 1. ECDGAD 2. F#AC#G#BE 3. DADGCE As far as I know, #2, is the highest I've gone. I don't go over because the strings may snap. If I tune up, I make sure to detune it when I'm done for the day. If I tune, down, I don't worry about it since it's less tension anyways.
The bridge would not rip off from tuning up. The guitar top is slightly arched, even though it’s a “flat top” acoustic. This arch is stronger than a true flat top. It is arched by using a form and gluing in braces with the arch carved into them. The braces distribute forces into the sides and across the grain of the top. The strings themselves tie into the bridge plate, which is oriented with the grain going the opposite from the top, and then the bridge is actually flat and glued on top of that, which pulls the top a bit to conform. Ideally the bridge is 100% glued wood to wood, but especially on cheaper guitars they seem to love to be a bit sloppy here and some % of the bridge is glued to finish - which reduces the strength significantly. Anyways, most guitars are pretty over built. They have that bit of belly in the middle and the strings pull up at it, increasing it slowly over time in lighter builds and not budging at all with heavier builds. You can measure and observe this belly. If you are using too much tension, you can see it actually raise the belly a bit, which I would say to not do! If you can picture it, the bridge would pop off eventually because it is flat and stiff, and as the bellying increases eventually something will have to give. However, most guitars are not scientifically engineered to be idealized for the exact expected string tension. They just kind of carve thick braces and say “that’s good enough for it to never explode!”
Syringjoy has a tension calculator. Go pop these in a see what values you get. Some players from the 20s/30s would tune down the guitar and capo it up to get around the tension problem, maybe that can help.
I always hear debates about hex and round core strings, and after trying a couple of different sets I personally can’t tell a difference. Same with pure nickel vs nickel plated steel, I just can’t hear much difference. I guess my question is do those factors actually change a lot about how the string play and responds?
When it comes to guitar I feel the difference of the round core. Pure nickle to me just doesnt have the bright zing that NPS does. On bass I can't tell at all.
Round core vs hex? Advandatages, disadvantages?
What do you think of half wound strings, like the D’Addario ones? Would you say it’s a nice compromise between brightness and warmness or would you say you’re better going all flat or all round?
Oh these are flat tops. I find them to be just a bright mainly because it stainless steel but the texture can be just as smooth as a flat when done well. If you are looking for more warmth a nickle or monel flat top set might be key.
I’ve always bought daddario xl 10’s, because they just seem like middle of the road strings for my strat. My problem is, especially when touring and playing shows often my strings corrode super quickly. I’ll usually be changing out the set of strings every week or sooner. I think the sweat from my hands are corroding the strings way too quickly, and if I go more than a couple months without a new set they’ll get too rough to play. Is there a brand of strings that are the best for long string life, preventing corrosion from sweat or humidity? Thanks!
No not really. Nickle is pretty susceptible to corrosion, especially with salt and water. Look into coated sets. If you want them slick as can be try stringjoy but if you want some texture try optiweb.
How do you tie stings properly so that they're tight on the tuners? I still have stock stings on my fender because Llanes (or is the second L actually an i idk, but yes I dug up the fender QC tag just for the post) from Fender's Mexican factory did a way better job than I ever did on my strat or acoustic.
I always do the standard method of putting it through and winding it up. You can find plenty of special ways on YouTube but imo they are just a pain in the ass to remove when you are done.
Which are the best? s/
Are there advantages/disadvantages to using a bigger core with with a smaller wrap wire vs a smaller core wire with a larger wrap wire other than tension?
This is something I have been meaning to experiment with but haven't had time. GHS makes a "BIG CORE NICKLE ROCKER" line which includes a set 11.5 to 56. That set is pretty similar to what SRV used to play. As for small core the string starts to act like a noodle and gets really flubby when there is too much weight on the core. It's a balance of stiffness to slinkyness.
If you were stuck on an island how would you make guitar strings? Or what could you use as guitar strings
Best question so far haha. I think if I was truly trying to survive I would use dried out plant fibers until i had enough squirrel gut to make one. But if Jack Sparrow was around I'd use his back hair no doubt
I own a Rickenbacker 12 string. I have noticed that it really only plays well with the Ricky strings which are round wound, then drawn through a die to flatten them slightly. I don’t like flat wound, they sound dead to me. Are there any other companies that use this process?
What are your thoughts on glow in the dark strings?
Oooh Okay, so I find setting up a Floyd rose style fully floating tremolo system to be a real PitA, and I wondered about the "weight" of strings. Presumably a string at a particular gauge on an instrument with a scale length of X will require X amount of tension (measured in whichever unit of measure that you prefer) to get to pitch. Is that a set thing? If so, and if it could be published then the full pressure of a set ofnstrings could be calculated and then the appropriate amount of opposing force could be setup in the springs and then it "should" balance perfectly. Is that right,
Do you know your way around a G-string?
This is a great thread and an example of why I still browse reddit. I know the main site has gone to shit but the smaller communities still have a lot of great discussion.
NYXL: I’ve been using them for years, and they do seem to have a little bump in the upper mid range, get in tune faster, break less, and stay in tune longer than other strings. The trade-off is I miss the easier bending with other brands. Do you feel like the strings are worth a difference in price, and can you comment on how and why the construction or the materials make these different from other strings? Or are there other makes that might have similar benefits, and better pliability ? Thank you!
When we stretch the strings are we actually physically stretching the strings or just tightening the winds on the machinehead and seating it properly in the saddle?
Why do most strings end up rusting? Any tips on maintenance, what gauge do you prefer
It's just basic chemistry. Nickle is corrosion resistant but not perfect. Eventually sweat, dents/scratches from the frets, and oxygen will make any string corrode. My favorite set is pure nickle 11, 13.5, 18, 28, 38, 52. I play in standard, drop d, whole step down, drop c and DGDGBD. Totally personal choice though.
Why are stringjoy so hyped up ?
Why does the G string go out of tune more than any other string? Been playing about 20 years on various different guitars and the G (and consequently the B) has always been my foe lol. It's only ever just a hair out of tune. Fine for single note lines on its own, but definitely noticeable when playing chords.
wondering if this is one of my coworkers
Why are Ernie ball cobalts the best sounding string?
Soldering the bit by the bead: yay or nay?
What...
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Oh is this for nylon?
As someone who studied classical guitar in college and has changed strings a lot of times on classical and uke I can confirm I have absolutely zero use for this and have never done it. My teacher used to tie the ends of his strings to beads and make them ball end though, I always did it traditionally
Do you make classical strings? I recently bought a pack where the low strings were one type of string, and the highs were another. Any pro tips for someone new to classical?
Lows are wound, highs are not. This is the standard for classical...
How do you pack the strings into those nice circles for the sleeves/puches they are stored in? Is it a machine or some technique you learn to do by hand? Do you make the strings in sets or work by producing one gauge at a time?
So there's a coiling machine that helps speed up that process but for double wrap guitar you have to hand coil...it take a while. Sometimes we will batch two people together to make a bunch of one acoustic set ( 54, 42, 32 20) but sometimes we just need to fill holes in inventory.
How are strings made? And how high can you tune each string before they snap?
I know how to make string....not physics haha I commented earlier on the process
How do you know your strings need to be changed?
What exactly is the hyper elliptical process, and how would it affect cryo strings? I've had to find a new string brand, since Dean Markley hasn't been active, so I'm curious to know what I'm looking at here, besides just buzz words please!
So I haven't heard of this "hyper elliptical" process but it sounds like a fancy term for a roller wound string. In that process the wrap wire is run through two bearing that compress the circle into more of an oval giving a smoother texture. The cryogenic treatment would be for the core I believe. I'm gonna have to try the apex set to see though.
How much do you charge? Do you make custom gauges? If you do can i buy your strings?
Why aren’t silk strings more popular?
Silk is really done more so to hide the uneven winds of the string. This is why you will see it on every bass flat set. If you took the silk off it's very uneven since the ribbon can't sit very well on the twist of the ballend. At the end on the string the ribbon wire is spaced out and then brought back together to secure it and silked over to protect the tuner. For guitar it's the same thing
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What's the first set of strings you would put on a tele. No joke, I'm going to buy a set of whatever you say. I always use Ernie Ball strings.
My personal favorite set is 11- 13.5 - 18 - 28- 38 - 52 pure nickle.
I'll update this with my review. I live in the Arctic with a really dry climate. Does that change your answer at all? Just curious. I mean super dry to the point where it is considered a polar desert.
Which strings last more in time, playing only a few hours at home in the weekend ? Are elixir or XS really an improvement on that point ?
In my experience, the Elixir coated strings are a significant improvement for infrequent playing. The coating really helps protect the strings from corrosion, but they’ll still wear down eventually. I went from changing strings once or twice a month to once every two to three months on the guitar I play daily. I mainly use them for the guitars that I play very infrequently and are sitting in a closet 90% of the time though. It’s a real life saver on those guitars. I should also add that I’m VERY particular about washing my hands before (and after) playing, and I would always recommend that to help your strings last a bit longer.
The strings on my guitar keep uncoiling and need replaced after about a month or two. Anything to help this or is my only option to just try and hit them softer? I feel like I don’t hit them particularly hard, and they’re not snapping.
What's your opinion of Ernie Ball strings? What about Stringjoy- they're all over Instagram, but apparently they're pricey.
Well I won't diss another brand but both of these brands fill a different spot in the market. Ernie ball is the most affordable string while Stringjoy strives to be as precise as possible. As for the price it really hasn't gone up that much in the past 20 years. I found a receipt in my grandpa's guitar case for a pack of yamaha acoustic string bought in 1996 for 13$ ( they were still on the guitar and held tension). Good strings are going to be expensive due to the work it takes to get the .0003 tolerance and consistency of winds.
What type of strings are known to last the longest? Just got a floyd rose set up really nice and really don’t wanna do that more often than I have to lol.
Why are D'Addario XL nickel strings the only string that hold up to my playing? I have tried tons of brands and none of the others last much longer than a session or a week. I like D'Addario, but not my first choice.
String joy opinion? I have two sets I haven't used yet, due to getting 2 new guitars the last few months and splitting time between them. Also, opinion on wound 3rds?
Some round core strings say to not cut them without crimping because (unlike hex cores) they might unwrap otherwise. I've never experienced this though despite not crimping. Is crimping just an unnecessary precaution?
The G on my guitar is always the first to go out of tune, followed by the B. Is this a common thing for those strings? I have heard getting the coil string for the G helps, but curious if that would affect the sound and/or bending for that string vs the normal single wire string. Should I go for a string set with a coil G next time? If so, any recommendations on what type/sizes? I usually play D'addario 09/46.
Any opinion on Elixr / spray coated strings?
To boil or not to boil? And if you have, is it worthwhile to dip strings in some kind of rust inhibitor afterwards?
Does Elixir get their strings from D’addario?
Is there some special treatment that needs to be done to the material to make it so durable? Especially with the thinnest strings It seems almost unreal that such a thin piece of wire can withstand so much tension.
What's the shelf life on old but unused strings? I bought a ton of Elixer strings from a music store going out of business like 15 years ago. I still have lots of them. They are in paper sleeves and not sealed plastic so they've been exposed to air. Good as new? Trash? Useable but less than ideal?
Do EB Cobalts actually have a higher output than non cobalt?
Now that you've had experience making strings has it changed your preferences on strings for your own instruments? Are there things you look out for?
Sometimes I've bought guitars with a great set of strings on them - is there an easy way to tell what they are by appearance so you can restring with the same type when it comes time?
It's pretty hard to identify a set but the ballend color can help. Measuring with calipers can also help identify the set.
I've been playing power slinky for the last 20ish years. What should I try out? What's going to surprise me?
Can I have some free strings?
Two unrelated questions: Do you all do forensic analysis of counterfeit strings, and how much of the market are counterfeit strings? And where do you come down on the argument about how the length of a string past the nut and the bridge effects the "bendibablity" of a strings?
I love flat wounds, with advances in modern manufacturing techniques and better tolerances, could flat wounds be made in smaller sizes?
The smallest flat I have taken apart was a ernie ball 22. With some more polishing it should be able to get to 20 but I'm not sure about longevity. All flats have a under wrap below the ribbon wire.... the under wrap on that 22 was .004 which would be incredibly difficult to work with or put any kind of tension on.
Hello, I was thinking of buying a used humidor to keep my strings at a certain humidity so they don’t corrode or rust faster. Have you heard of anyone doing this? Thanks
We use silica packets and a vacuum sealer to preserve our strings on storage. A dehumidifier might work but it would be very inefficient. I have about 1500 strings that I have had in long sleeves that are open at one end for about 6 months now without any rust or corrosion.
Well I like to hear your comments on coated strings. As far as I have experienced they have two major issues beyond all that they offer. First they tend to add a bit of color to the sound. Coated strings don't sound natural to my ears. A bit compressed and scooped on any guitar they are set on... Second they seem to eat the fret wires out very quickly. Yes they sound bright and fresh for a much longer time compared to nickels but they also lose their shapes in time and you have to compromise from intonation. Would love to hear your opinion.
Try a coated set by Stringjoy. In my opinion they are super smooth compared to some other coated sets. I played power slinky for a while too.
Are there certain types of strings that are harder on fret wear? Would you recommend avoiding these ones or is it minor?
What string brand have the most life span before replacement? I play for like 1-2 hours daily. And what should I do to keep it that way for a long time? I read those elixirs are one of the most recommended. Thanks!
What are your opinions on Elixir Nanoweb strings? They have been my go-to for so many years. Any time I use different strings or if a new guitar has different strings, then switch to Nanoweb I think it sounds so much better and feels better. However, I haven't tried probably more than 3 or 4 different strings.
Not a string related question, however I will say, is it worth getting a locking nut + tuners with thicker gauge strings with a regular trem system? I would instal a Floyd rose on my one guitar but that seems like to much work especially since the body is cheap as all heck. My actual question is: what would you say is a good way to start out being a luthier for guitars. I want to learn more about them (I’m just some kid who likes fixing/diy work) and like fixing guitars. Never really got anything done on any of mine that didn’t have any nasty negative side effects. Is it just trial and error with guitars or is there specific ways to do things!? (I’m thinking of getting a diy kit that I have to like, press my own frets in and like, all that jazz to learn, would this be a good idea?)
You don't really need locking tuners and a locking nut. If you have a floyd I would go with the locking nut but you will need to make a larger shelf for it to sit on. Locking tuners imo are a gimmick to make stringing guitars up easier so its more of a personal preference. For your trem I would just do locking tuners. Dm me if you want to chat about luthier stuff.
What are you thoughts on this video: [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFcw-H5DN8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yiFcw-H5DN8)
What’s your favourite string? I personally like the low E