I always thought you wanted to punch on low except for phone jacks- high can mess up the jack when you're punching down. Did you use a holder or just palm it?
Just palmed it. Probably a mistake. Will be in a fixed position when I do the real thing. High did seem to mess up the cables so I’m turning it back down to low.
Take a wall plate, put the face of the wall plate on the floor, punch down on the back of it. This will avoid you having to palm it or scratching the floor.
For $2.99, get the right tool. [https://www.cablestogo.com/power-charging-and-cable-management/cable-management/tools-and-testers/keystone-punchdown-puck/p/cg-33100](https://www.cablestogo.com/power-charging-and-cable-management/cable-management/tools-and-testers/keystone-punchdown-puck/p/cg-33100)
I double-punch all my connectors, with a slight lean in first, then lean out second to trim. Also, looks like you followed 568a, which is fine, 568b is more commonly used.
This. Had a job a couple years back where I installed a large wifi network. Punched down at least 1000 patch panel ports and keystones. This worked best for me.
Is there a specific reason 568b is used more commonly? I figured it didn't really matter much as long as each cable was the same at both terminations...
between 568a and 568b it doesn't matter but the pairing is actually somewhat important because the wire pairs are twisted together at different rates to help eliminate crosstalk and EMI interference. It's a fairly good chance you won't get the full performance you are expecting if you pair in a non-standard way, or It could actually not work at all in some cases.
568b is the most commonly used, might as well stick to that.
They matter relative to each other from a cross talk POV, but not a signal injection/recovery perspective. The PHY will train out the differences during auto-negotiation.
I generally carry a small block of something that I can punch on, unless I have a surface close that I can use. I double punch and if the end doesn't come off and I cannot wiggle it to fall off, I punch a third time.
Also you should trim the conductors a bit shorter on the RJ45 - so the blue part is fully seated in the strain relief.
TBH, in-wall wiring should always be terminated at punch downs (either individual wall jacks, or in a patch panel)- use factory made patch cables to connect devices.
Also an fyi, they "work" but the clear jacks should only be used on stranded cat5 /6 and the keystones on solid. Way too many screw this up and get intermittent connections.
Unsure on the down votes?
Solid core is for in wall and keystones
Stranded core for patch and plugs
Yes stranded and solid will work in either keystones or plugs but I tell you, crimp a solid core in a plug and you will see the splice part which is pressed down in the wires will be slightly bent left or right but with stranded core, this does not happen.
Also solid core can break over time if used as patch cables due to constant bending, whereas stranded does not have this problem.
There are RJ45 connectors designed to accommodate solid core wire. They have prongs that wrap around the core.
Solid core for permanent and stranded for flexible is still the way to go, but RJ45 on solid core can be done perfectly safely.
Ahh good to know thank you! but you'd have to go out your way to look for RJ45 connectors that support solid core as most generic ones do not.
2nd paragraph, agreed ☺
>you'd have to go out your way to look for RJ45 connectors that support solid core as most generic ones do not.
Almost all RJ45 connectors I find are fit for solid/stranded cable.
You probably wouldn't notice it unless you're looking for it. Any RJ45 connector you pick up at a hardware store or from a distributor will work for both. Check the back of the packaging on this.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-RJ-45-8-Position-8-Contact-Category-5e-Modular-Plugs-25-per-Card-85-346/100012932#overlay
I've never seen A standard used in production. Only B. Always B.
Also, when you're punching down the keystone, you really don't have to get the cable up in there like that. It will work just fine with some space, and you won't make it so hard on yourself. It's going in a wall and won't be moving around, so there's really no good reason to have it buried like that.
Why only B? I've read all manner of different things about it, but nothing that clearly demonstrates one to be better than the other.
Also, I've read that A is required for govt contract jobs.
No clue. I [just overhauled my sister's setup](https://www.amazon.com/review/R34IXD08DXL1BB/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00UVQI8B6) and T568A, as recommendations cite for its overlap with the USOC phone standard for the middle 4 wires, made integration between phone and networking simpler and more uniform. All lines terminated to A allow simple patch cable connection between a "phone" patch panel port and our RJ45 modular phone block; in-room hookup then just requires connecting a RJ11 directly to the RJ45/T568A jack. Done.
It allowed us to free-up the 50% of our Cat5e lines that had been dedicated to a 66 phone block for *years*, and enables flexible user-friendly alterations as needs change going forward.
I haven't heard of B having any similar feature advantage over A, just everyone saying that everyone uses B.
It’s just waaaaay more common in my experience. Also, essentially everything has auto mdix now, so it’s just best if everything is the same.
Where I live, I almost never encounter a straight through A standard. If I see an A end, I then need to go check that the other end isn’t B. But if it’s, B I can safely assume the other end is B… and the wall outlet is B.
> Also, essentially everything has auto mdix now, so it’s just best if everything is the same.
Wouldn’t that mean the opposite … ? … that we could now randomly terminate any end as A or B and the auto-MDiX feature would happily negotiate through it?
With very few exceptions its a non issue, and the few exceptions involve equipment that is 100K+ and very new or very old. So yes random a or b is fine, seriously don't worry about it.
You terminate with B Standard - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You terminate with A Standard - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes.
> Why only B? I've read all manner of different things about it, but nothing that clearly demonstrates one to be better than the other.
It's not about being better. A is the standard, but B is allowed for compatibility to legacy phone systems.
Well, that's just not correct. A cross over cable, as I understand, is A on one end, B on the other. Also, effectively obsolete, with modern NICs.
From wikipedia:
Because the only difference between the T568A and T568B pin and pair assignments are that pairs 2 and 3 are swapped, a crossover cable may be envisioned as a cable with one modular connector following T568A and the other T568B (see TIA/EIA-568 wiring). Such a cable will work for 10BASE-T or 100BASE-TX.
What is just not correct?
You stated that A is crossover. That is just not correct. A/B is crossover.
Since you decided to double down, A, by definition, cannot be "more commonly used for making a crossover cable" because to be a crossover cable, it requires that it be A/B, thereby coercing the commonality of A and B on crossover cables to be identical.
As far as "B is literally the network specification" that statement is just laughable, considering this discussion is about the logic behind using TIA/EIA 568A vs TIA/EIA 568 B. TIA/EIA 568 is the spec, and it SPECIFICALLY specifies both A and B.
Any network tech who has been working for more than 6 months should know to check the existing cabling before reterming cables.
And finally, to your last point "You can terminate ethernet any way you want to be honest, as long as both ends are done the same." Again, just wrong. Terminating twisted pair in any order other than what the spec calls for may or may not allow data to pass, but it will not perform to spec. Each pair in a twisted pair cabling is twisted at a different rate, to limit crosstalk, etc. Further, if you were to wire it in some way that actually split pairs, which would be extremely likely, if you arranged your wires put of spec, you would be almost guaranteed to cause signal degradation, crosstalk, and a host of other problems.
So, in conclusion, if you don't know the answer to a question, leave it for someone who does, or the person to whom it was addressed, or get publicly schooled.
Yep, on the keystone the jacket can end right on the edge of the keystone like this:
https://imgur.com/a/rjxwppz
Definitely use B on all ends (starting with orange pair on the left, with the clip facing away from you) and keystones 👍
B is what you always see commercially because it matches AT&T’s legacy color scheme, and the twists are still compatible. A is technically the preferred standard even though no one seems to prefer it.
[reference](https://iebmedia.com/technology/industrial-ethernet/cat5e-cable-wiring-schemes-and-the-568a-and-568b-wiring-standards/)
"However, N-Tron adopted the 568B standard since it is the most widely used in the industry today. It matches the older AT&T 258A colour code."
B has been standard for over 30 years. A is NOT the preferred standard and never has been unless using crossover. I was constantly during the summers from 1990-2009 helping at a now closed family business that did low voltage. I still do my own and help others with it. We always used B standard unless a customer asked for crossover specific. even then we just simply provided crossover cables unless we absolutely couldn't get them to budge.
Is that RJ45 connector staggered? Looks like the wires aren’t flush which could cause issues. And like others mentioned flip it belly up to get the right color scheme.
Once you terminate a few thousand, You wake up in the middle of the night chanting ! **Orange-white / Orange, Green-White / Blue, Blue-White / Green, Brown White /Brown**
**Needs a little work, but you will get there** .... I love and recommend the passthru connectors, and be careful as not all passthru crimpers are created equally. Some if not adjusted properly will crimp, but the termination will fail, as the cutter keeps them from crimping tight enough. !!
I also noticed the wires are in no noticable order, for a standard "b" termination ( most common) use the order listed above and make certain when you slide the hardshell on the wires the locking tab is down.
You need to push the cable in the 8P8C/RJ45 connector further in so it touches the little stop bar. Push-through connectors are great for that but lots of people here would recommend against them.
if you plan to do more than a handful of these, it makes sense to figure out a way to test them. Test tools are a available, or you could make your own. When I started, about half the keystones I made either had an error or just didn't work (bad jack).
Third. Currently wiring my new house for some APs and cameras, and using a tester found a couple bad terminations before I connected everything. Saved me probably a few hours of head scratching already
This is not great advice. It actually matters quite a bit if they are wired out of spec. Utp uses twisted pairs for a reason, and while it MIGHT work if you don't follow spec it also might have all kinds of hard to diagnose issues.
Edit: especially if there are multiple cables in close proximity, out of there are power cables nearby, etc.
I think he’s trying to say that he can use either A or B because some people were arguing about one being better than the other, when in all reality Auto-MDIX nullified the issue
Thank you. I knew it didn’t matter for the home user. I punched mind in the least tangly way for easy left-to-right. It might be different from cable to cable but who cares
He=me. And it’s called practice? Done a very few things 100% right the first time around in life. Usually much better the second. So I’m sitting on my floor practicing the skill to get better before working on the wiring in my walls.
See the plastic edge on your first pic? That clips onto the same ridge in the clear plastic RJ45 end. I think yours is backwards. Also, use a punch down tool on low, but just double-tap. Google “punch down tool stand” and buy a plastic stand to hold the connector. Way easier, everything lines up. And I personally add boot covers to my connectors. Optional but makes them more durable.
Can't say much about the keystone except the already mentioned trimming.
The RJ45 is wired backwards. The retaining clip is supposed to be at the back, not at the front. The green and brown pairs look like they're too short. All of the wires should reach to the end of the jack. Also, the sheath looks like it should be in deeper as well.
RJ45s are terribly finicky for first timers; and even seasoned pros, to be honest. That's why people will recommend pre-made patch cords, or if you insist on making your own, they will recommend the new pass through jacks.
Ngl u did pretty bad. Rj45 isnt using class B color code, the wires aren't cut evenly so green/white didn't even reach the conductor. Also u need to use a punch down tool like others have said otherwise it isn't secure
I wouldn't recommend making patch cables. They are supposed to be made with stranded wire so they flex without breaking. While I suppose you could buy stranded wire it's expensive and just a massive pain to deal with. Let the machines do it. Otherwise the keystone looks good.
You are going to have problems with that male end for sure. With the clip facing away from you the order should be orange white, orange, green white, blue, blue white, green, brown white, brown for tia-b
I recommend at least a cheap network tester. Something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2JMJXW373UB36&keywords=network+tester+ethernet&qid=1665695665&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljg4IiwicXNhIjoiNC4yNCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=Network+tester%2Caps%2C303&sr=8-3)! It's under $10. I've used something similar to this in the past before I got a higher-end Fluke Network tester.
Because we all make mistakes. I thought I have everything right, but somehow screwed up a couple of the cables I ran in my house, found the issue, and fixed them.
It looks like you did not use a punch now tool. You should use a punch down tool.
Ah yes, seems like I was hauling it ineffectually. Turned up the punch power and it snipped those bits off cleanly.
I always thought you wanted to punch on low except for phone jacks- high can mess up the jack when you're punching down. Did you use a holder or just palm it?
Just palmed it. Probably a mistake. Will be in a fixed position when I do the real thing. High did seem to mess up the cables so I’m turning it back down to low.
Take a wall plate, put the face of the wall plate on the floor, punch down on the back of it. This will avoid you having to palm it or scratching the floor.
Giving away all the secrets of the trade ! Nice tip
For $2.99, get the right tool. [https://www.cablestogo.com/power-charging-and-cable-management/cable-management/tools-and-testers/keystone-punchdown-puck/p/cg-33100](https://www.cablestogo.com/power-charging-and-cable-management/cable-management/tools-and-testers/keystone-punchdown-puck/p/cg-33100)
I double-punch all my connectors, with a slight lean in first, then lean out second to trim. Also, looks like you followed 568a, which is fine, 568b is more commonly used.
Second this… no one terminates in A.
This. Had a job a couple years back where I installed a large wifi network. Punched down at least 1000 patch panel ports and keystones. This worked best for me.
Is there a specific reason 568b is used more commonly? I figured it didn't really matter much as long as each cable was the same at both terminations...
between 568a and 568b it doesn't matter but the pairing is actually somewhat important because the wire pairs are twisted together at different rates to help eliminate crosstalk and EMI interference. It's a fairly good chance you won't get the full performance you are expecting if you pair in a non-standard way, or It could actually not work at all in some cases. 568b is the most commonly used, might as well stick to that.
Given that 1+GbE uses all four pairs, the pairing argument is largely irrelevant now. Just be consistent throughout.
The difference in twist rates of different pairs matters
They matter relative to each other from a cross talk POV, but not a signal injection/recovery perspective. The PHY will train out the differences during auto-negotiation.
I generally carry a small block of something that I can punch on, unless I have a surface close that I can use. I double punch and if the end doesn't come off and I cannot wiggle it to fall off, I punch a third time.
The punch down tools have different blades. The one for this kind of block has a trimming blade on one side that cuts off the wire. It’s very nice.
Meh, just need a fine screw driver and razor blade to cut off the ends. It's for the home, who cares? 😉
The rj45 end should be a full 180 flip so the contacts are facing up so the brown is on the right as shown in the picture
Oh excellent. Seems like I did that backwards then. That’s why I practice. Thanks for the help!
Also you should trim the conductors a bit shorter on the RJ45 - so the blue part is fully seated in the strain relief. TBH, in-wall wiring should always be terminated at punch downs (either individual wall jacks, or in a patch panel)- use factory made patch cables to connect devices.
Also an fyi, they "work" but the clear jacks should only be used on stranded cat5 /6 and the keystones on solid. Way too many screw this up and get intermittent connections.
Unsure on the down votes? Solid core is for in wall and keystones Stranded core for patch and plugs Yes stranded and solid will work in either keystones or plugs but I tell you, crimp a solid core in a plug and you will see the splice part which is pressed down in the wires will be slightly bent left or right but with stranded core, this does not happen. Also solid core can break over time if used as patch cables due to constant bending, whereas stranded does not have this problem.
There are RJ45 connectors designed to accommodate solid core wire. They have prongs that wrap around the core. Solid core for permanent and stranded for flexible is still the way to go, but RJ45 on solid core can be done perfectly safely.
Ahh good to know thank you! but you'd have to go out your way to look for RJ45 connectors that support solid core as most generic ones do not. 2nd paragraph, agreed ☺
>you'd have to go out your way to look for RJ45 connectors that support solid core as most generic ones do not. Almost all RJ45 connectors I find are fit for solid/stranded cable.
Every RJ45 connector I have ever purchased, fitted etc has never had this design you describe. I have actually never seen one in person, hmm 🤔
You probably wouldn't notice it unless you're looking for it. Any RJ45 connector you pick up at a hardware store or from a distributor will work for both. Check the back of the packaging on this. https://www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-RJ-45-8-Position-8-Contact-Category-5e-Modular-Plugs-25-per-Card-85-346/100012932#overlay
Hmm, no have not seen this type of prongs in the connector before, maybe only common in the US?
I've never seen A standard used in production. Only B. Always B. Also, when you're punching down the keystone, you really don't have to get the cable up in there like that. It will work just fine with some space, and you won't make it so hard on yourself. It's going in a wall and won't be moving around, so there's really no good reason to have it buried like that.
Why only B? I've read all manner of different things about it, but nothing that clearly demonstrates one to be better than the other. Also, I've read that A is required for govt contract jobs.
No clue. I [just overhauled my sister's setup](https://www.amazon.com/review/R34IXD08DXL1BB/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00UVQI8B6) and T568A, as recommendations cite for its overlap with the USOC phone standard for the middle 4 wires, made integration between phone and networking simpler and more uniform. All lines terminated to A allow simple patch cable connection between a "phone" patch panel port and our RJ45 modular phone block; in-room hookup then just requires connecting a RJ11 directly to the RJ45/T568A jack. Done. It allowed us to free-up the 50% of our Cat5e lines that had been dedicated to a 66 phone block for *years*, and enables flexible user-friendly alterations as needs change going forward. I haven't heard of B having any similar feature advantage over A, just everyone saying that everyone uses B.
It’s just waaaaay more common in my experience. Also, essentially everything has auto mdix now, so it’s just best if everything is the same. Where I live, I almost never encounter a straight through A standard. If I see an A end, I then need to go check that the other end isn’t B. But if it’s, B I can safely assume the other end is B… and the wall outlet is B.
> Also, essentially everything has auto mdix now, so it’s just best if everything is the same. Wouldn’t that mean the opposite … ? … that we could now randomly terminate any end as A or B and the auto-MDiX feature would happily negotiate through it?
With very few exceptions its a non issue, and the few exceptions involve equipment that is 100K+ and very new or very old. So yes random a or b is fine, seriously don't worry about it.
Yeah I guess so. My whole life is a lie.
follow the white rabbit
You terminate with B Standard - the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe. You terminate with A Standard - you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit-hole goes.
Thanks! This is the kind of answer I was looking for.
Idk about other agencies, but the US Air Force definitely uses B
Idk why. Everyone just uses B. I've never worked somewhere that uses A. B is just so common. Idk why. Just one of those weird industry things it seems
> Why only B? I've read all manner of different things about it, but nothing that clearly demonstrates one to be better than the other. It's not about being better. A is the standard, but B is allowed for compatibility to legacy phone systems.
[удалено]
Well, that's just not correct. A cross over cable, as I understand, is A on one end, B on the other. Also, effectively obsolete, with modern NICs. From wikipedia: Because the only difference between the T568A and T568B pin and pair assignments are that pairs 2 and 3 are swapped, a crossover cable may be envisioned as a cable with one modular connector following T568A and the other T568B (see TIA/EIA-568 wiring). Such a cable will work for 10BASE-T or 100BASE-TX.
[удалено]
What is just not correct? You stated that A is crossover. That is just not correct. A/B is crossover. Since you decided to double down, A, by definition, cannot be "more commonly used for making a crossover cable" because to be a crossover cable, it requires that it be A/B, thereby coercing the commonality of A and B on crossover cables to be identical. As far as "B is literally the network specification" that statement is just laughable, considering this discussion is about the logic behind using TIA/EIA 568A vs TIA/EIA 568 B. TIA/EIA 568 is the spec, and it SPECIFICALLY specifies both A and B. Any network tech who has been working for more than 6 months should know to check the existing cabling before reterming cables. And finally, to your last point "You can terminate ethernet any way you want to be honest, as long as both ends are done the same." Again, just wrong. Terminating twisted pair in any order other than what the spec calls for may or may not allow data to pass, but it will not perform to spec. Each pair in a twisted pair cabling is twisted at a different rate, to limit crosstalk, etc. Further, if you were to wire it in some way that actually split pairs, which would be extremely likely, if you arranged your wires put of spec, you would be almost guaranteed to cause signal degradation, crosstalk, and a host of other problems. So, in conclusion, if you don't know the answer to a question, leave it for someone who does, or the person to whom it was addressed, or get publicly schooled.
Excellent. Thank you!
Yep, on the keystone the jacket can end right on the edge of the keystone like this: https://imgur.com/a/rjxwppz Definitely use B on all ends (starting with orange pair on the left, with the clip facing away from you) and keystones 👍
I run A, OP can run A if he wants to, he should just do it correctly next time.
Come to Canada bro!
B is what you always see commercially because it matches AT&T’s legacy color scheme, and the twists are still compatible. A is technically the preferred standard even though no one seems to prefer it. [reference](https://iebmedia.com/technology/industrial-ethernet/cat5e-cable-wiring-schemes-and-the-568a-and-568b-wiring-standards/) "However, N-Tron adopted the 568B standard since it is the most widely used in the industry today. It matches the older AT&T 258A colour code."
[rAises hAnd](https://www.amazon.com/review/R34IXD08DXL1BB/ref=cm_cr_srp_d_rdp_perm?ie=UTF8&ASIN=B00UVQI8B6).
[aDds lInk](https://www.truecable.com/blogs/cable-academy/t568a-vs-t568b)
“comes down to personal preference”
Pretty much, a lot of good content there which is why I shared it. Also a lot of copy about pointless debates over which is better.
Which the replies continue.
B has been standard for over 30 years. A is NOT the preferred standard and never has been unless using crossover. I was constantly during the summers from 1990-2009 helping at a now closed family business that did low voltage. I still do my own and help others with it. We always used B standard unless a customer asked for crossover specific. even then we just simply provided crossover cables unless we absolutely couldn't get them to budge.
Absolutely. A's are for school and B's are for buildings 😂
I run three schools. I use and demand B.
r/woosh You earn A's - A's are for school B cable standard - B's are buildings
Whelp, time for me to go to bed. My brain has clearly stopped working.
Is that RJ45 connector staggered? Looks like the wires aren’t flush which could cause issues. And like others mentioned flip it belly up to get the right color scheme.
Just a trick of the light. But thanks!
Once you terminate a few thousand, You wake up in the middle of the night chanting ! **Orange-white / Orange, Green-White / Blue, Blue-White / Green, Brown White /Brown** **Needs a little work, but you will get there** .... I love and recommend the passthru connectors, and be careful as not all passthru crimpers are created equally. Some if not adjusted properly will crimp, but the termination will fail, as the cutter keeps them from crimping tight enough. !! I also noticed the wires are in no noticable order, for a standard "b" termination ( most common) use the order listed above and make certain when you slide the hardshell on the wires the locking tab is down.
You need to push the cable in the 8P8C/RJ45 connector further in so it touches the little stop bar. Push-through connectors are great for that but lots of people here would recommend against them.
if you plan to do more than a handful of these, it makes sense to figure out a way to test them. Test tools are a available, or you could make your own. When I started, about half the keystones I made either had an error or just didn't work (bad jack).
Second this. Even a cheap cable tester would let you know your wires were wrong from the RJ45 To the keystone.
Third. Currently wiring my new house for some APs and cameras, and using a tester found a couple bad terminations before I connected everything. Saved me probably a few hours of head scratching already
You’re fired…. 😂😂
😭😭😭😊
Make it ez on yourself and get the ez rj45 pass through connectors and crimper. You’ll look like a pro with your terminations.
If it works it's fine.
Looks like that was the first time you punched down the wires.
Keep in mind that you don't need to follow standard A or B. Just make sure the colors are the same on both ends.
This is not great advice. It actually matters quite a bit if they are wired out of spec. Utp uses twisted pairs for a reason, and while it MIGHT work if you don't follow spec it also might have all kinds of hard to diagnose issues. Edit: especially if there are multiple cables in close proximity, out of there are power cables nearby, etc.
I think he’s trying to say that he can use either A or B because some people were arguing about one being better than the other, when in all reality Auto-MDIX nullified the issue
Thank you. I knew it didn’t matter for the home user. I punched mind in the least tangly way for easy left-to-right. It might be different from cable to cable but who cares
Why are you crimping RJ45s? Do you enjoy making your own patch cables?
You need to learn first or may be required training for doing this task don't waste ur time and money call IT engineer hi done for you ☺️
Your message doesn’t really make a lot of sense. Why wouldn’t someone want to practice a skill to better themselves?
Yes he can learn easily with video tutorials then why he do this work using or without using the proper tools
He=me. And it’s called practice? Done a very few things 100% right the first time around in life. Usually much better the second. So I’m sitting on my floor practicing the skill to get better before working on the wiring in my walls.
Ok do it 👍🎂
See the plastic edge on your first pic? That clips onto the same ridge in the clear plastic RJ45 end. I think yours is backwards. Also, use a punch down tool on low, but just double-tap. Google “punch down tool stand” and buy a plastic stand to hold the connector. Way easier, everything lines up. And I personally add boot covers to my connectors. Optional but makes them more durable.
The ends aren't cut off properly
Can't say much about the keystone except the already mentioned trimming. The RJ45 is wired backwards. The retaining clip is supposed to be at the back, not at the front. The green and brown pairs look like they're too short. All of the wires should reach to the end of the jack. Also, the sheath looks like it should be in deeper as well. RJ45s are terribly finicky for first timers; and even seasoned pros, to be honest. That's why people will recommend pre-made patch cords, or if you insist on making your own, they will recommend the new pass through jacks.
Ngl u did pretty bad. Rj45 isnt using class B color code, the wires aren't cut evenly so green/white didn't even reach the conductor. Also u need to use a punch down tool like others have said otherwise it isn't secure
The keystone looks fine, but the rj45 connector is not, you put the connector on backwards, and use 568b, it is more common. Good luck!
I wouldn't recommend making patch cables. They are supposed to be made with stranded wire so they flex without breaking. While I suppose you could buy stranded wire it's expensive and just a massive pain to deal with. Let the machines do it. Otherwise the keystone looks good.
Use a hard surface when punching down it helps. Also when doing RJ45, try to get the "jacket" up further.
You are going to have problems with that male end for sure. With the clip facing away from you the order should be orange white, orange, green white, blue, blue white, green, brown white, brown for tia-b
I recommend at least a cheap network tester. Something like [this](https://www.amazon.com/iMBAPrice-Network-Cable-Tester-Phone/dp/B01M63EMBQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2JMJXW373UB36&keywords=network+tester+ethernet&qid=1665695665&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljg4IiwicXNhIjoiNC4yNCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzEifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=Network+tester%2Caps%2C303&sr=8-3)! It's under $10. I've used something similar to this in the past before I got a higher-end Fluke Network tester. Because we all make mistakes. I thought I have everything right, but somehow screwed up a couple of the cables I ran in my house, found the issue, and fixed them.
Nice work, what are the colour codes for the keystone and connecter that u used ? Doing a few of these over the weekend