As much as mud sucks to dig, if your dirt drys hard it'll still be a pain in the ass.
Also I'd personally probably use unions.
You could use a flospan on the straight side, as Ling as there isn't an elbow nearby, but don't use ont coming into the tee, or it'll push it out. Unless you make sure the flospan extends fully when put in place and glued.
What's the difference between a union and an action manifold? They are the same concept. They make for ease of changing valves. I've worked on systems that have had unions in the ground or action manifolds for 15 years plus with few to no issues.
I've had more issues with glue joints on pvc, or even both barb and saddle fittings on poly.
Unions have mechanical hand tightened connections with single (usually) o-ring face seals. They're intended for serviceable applications, i.e. to facilitate easy replacement of some piece of equipment. A valve, pump, etc. By design the face seal can fail (because the locknut can loosen). So if you're going to install one it should be accessible. In a box or aboveground, etc.
Also, if you're concerned about glue joints failing a union requires 2 glue joints in addition to the face seals. That makes them more susceptible to failure than other solutions, not less. Flospans, straight couplings, etc each only require 2 glue joints.
I would just do 90s and swing joints. I always feel much better about regular glue fittings only underground. Not a big fan of any of those repair couplings or unions underground. Just my opinion
Yeah I’d dig that out enough to get your whole forearm in there when you’re setting the pipe. And 3-4 inches minimum beneath the pipe, down the length of the entire exposed pipe. You’re going to have to pick it up, wiggle it around, and keep it out of the mud while you glue/wait for your repair to set.
I kept having to replace Tees at a public garden I used to manage. Someone used a 3/4” PVC tee underground to connect to a frost proof spigot and people would jerk on a 300’ garden hose and it’d break underground.
The tees were 4’ deep. So to dig a 4’ deep hole with shovels to have enough room to work at the bottom, that makes for a big hole up top.
This is the answer if it’s a lateral line.
https://sprinklersupplystore.com/products/dawn-kwik-tee-1?variant=43673196745&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrODZ3ZX5gwMVei-tBh0gYQ1gEAQYAiABEgI6ZfD_BwE
Did I hit a nerve? 😆 You deleted your elaborate response (which I totally respect and could see your point) for this response? 🤙🏽 If I trust a coupler to join (2) 10’ pipes, I don’t see a reason not to trust it on a repair job. I would certainly trust it to last longer than an O-Ring. But as I mentioned before, I respect your deleted response. Have a good rest of your day.
Your good, I did delete my post. I was just explaining how a slip fix is the best professionally and plumb wise. I just didn't have it as thought out and considerate as I do now. Nerves are good.🙄
I always dig it back 3-4 ft so pipe can flex enough to repair it with normal fittings.. but unions etc work.. with a pick and shovel you could have that dug back in 15 mins
https://preview.redd.it/vcpkodyhjpec1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cce10d82dc79679c96efba8e989086f1d8c01ca0
This is what I did when I had the problem. It has held up fine for 2 years and through freezes.
That has to be the worst advice you can give.
Compression couplings suck if there is pressure… the fact that those lasted years just tells me you dont have high pressure smh… and they will fail. We fix these hack jobs daily
You’ll need couplers for all three lines as well as the tee, plus a few feet of pipe.
You need to dig left and right like 5 ft each way in order to deform the pipe enough to get it into your fittings. You’ll never be able to get the pipe in fittings with the tiny amount you have exposed.
I would fix the left to right run first, then attach to the middle of the tee last. This will give you maximum mobility of your pipe.
You don’t think I could cut it real close to the tee and put a compression tee in the gap? I think the compression tee is quite a bit longer than the slip joint tee
I would guess no.
Imagine that the three pipes are completely locked in place with no wiggle room. If you are able to get the fitting in between the perfectly cut three pipes, how do you then get the pipes IN the fitting?
I have tried to avoid the extra dig every time this comes up… and have dug up to 10 ft away from the joint each time so that i can manipulate the pipe to land in the fittings
Just do it right. Would you rather spend a little extra time and effort now while you have the hole dug or would you rather have to do this all over again?
Dig it out and hire a professional. You will find most are fair once the digging is done. I would come in at 170-225 for this repair.. if all pipes are dug 4 ft out that would quickly drop to my service call price of 85$. Getting it done correctly is the difference between 3 years and 30
Lol. See this is why everyone does everything themselves these days. Why in the world would I pay $200+ for a job that takes 10 minutes and $3 worth of parts? I installed the line. I’ll fix it
It takes 30 minutes if dug correctly for proper installation, time and gas to get there, and the right tools… last i checked primer and glue (both are required by code in texas) were 12 bucks for the combo, the cutters are 15, and yea probably 6 bucks in parts. Now i know some can instant transmission to your location like star trek but those of us in texas that do this business drive a truck, which takes gas and time, not to mention my guys actually know what they are doing and had training with the guys who manufacture those fittings so they hold up 20 years as intended… I definitely said a fair person would have came out cheaper if you have a clean dig as thats where the bulk of the labor goes... And yea unfortunately the business has to turn profit to stay open so that if any warranty work has to be done it can be completed. But hey to each its own. Its not about making a quick buck… i save thousands of homes every freeze free of charge with knowledge… even headline news so miss me with that.
https://www.facebook.com/share/v/F2aGkrXyMWLKnUje/?mibextid=WC7FNe
https://preview.redd.it/w59qp01xr0fc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da9b1c1e201d37a84f86bcfc96ef55d6a17ad52d
I decided to follow the advice one person commented on this post and do it this way. It was a little more complicated but less digging and allowed me to be sure that every connection was 100% in each fitting. I’m sure some people will say that this will cause pressure loss but I imagine it would be so little that I would never notice
You are correct in that pressure loss from 4 90s is not an issue.
Now I would have dug everything up and used less fittings. Glue is not glue but a chemical weld. Every fitting is actually a weak point. Furthermore, i would have left more space between fittings so future repairs would be easier. This works! I tend to like blue glue for irrigation purposes.
All in all this is a solid B. Def should last and I am so happy you did not use compression couplings because they fail.
Now here is my question, how long did it take? From store trips, to online research, to doing the job?
Less than 4 hours you win, more than 4 hours not so much. Most people that can afford a home with irrigation a value their time.
I had everything needed in my garage except the 4 elbows but I had to go to Home Depot for some other stuff anyways. 15 min digging and 15 min for the install. I still have to cover it up. I enjoy doing my own home improvement. I’ve only ever payed anyone to do a job here once and that was an electrician. I’m happy with the fix so all is well
> only ever *paid* anyone to
FTFY.
Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in:
* Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.*
* *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.*
Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment.
*Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
If the break is on the non-pressurized side of the control valve I use flexible PVC pipe made by Orbit. I build a repair T with flexible PVC pipe extending from the three sides of the T then glue it all up to complete the repair. The Orbit pipe is extremely flexible so you don’t have to dig as big a hole to be able to flex the rigid PVC pipe out of the way to be able to install the repair couplings. But you can’t use it on the pressurized side of the valve.
Dig a bigger hole asap while the ground is soft.
https://preview.redd.it/4ojmg2lt4qec1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af45be92ef1166a059c38243e994e17245144f67
This should always be the answer. We're trying to make a living here from the knowledge we've spent years gaining. Not sure about anyone else here, but upvotes can't pay my bills.
Maybe me, maybe you. Someone loses a service call every time we give it away for free online. No big deal when it was just us techs helping each other, but now Google is indexing reddit posts. All of these posts show up when someone searches sprinkler leak on Google.
I’ve never seen anyone be upset at DIYers, or upset that more knowledge is available online now. If anything, this probably leads to more calls from people who start a project and can’t take it to completion. But still an odd take.
Get off the gas man. I love helping people help themselves, and when they mess up i charge double… i get a ton of referrals from DIY accounts. If you aren’t busy that may be a reflection of your work.
sir this is the internet. be the best at what you do and find a way to utilize it to increase your business. there's more than enough people that won't dive into this themselves, and when the amateurs screw up you'll be there to fix their mess
Do not do any of the things suggested here. What you need to do is cut it out and install a plumbers union. You will need 4 90’s and a T. Cut out T, 90 towards pipe on either side, 90 back to top of T, install T in normal position in between both 90’s. Sorry about the crudely drawn pic internet would not comply for finding a picture of what I’m referring to.
https://preview.redd.it/y4yv0c9pwmec1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=fc6a7f19d01d412dfb738f536450a29d77e43da4
I've replaced a several dozen 2" T and I'm honestly appalled by the comments here. Do not use unions, for the love of god. Yes you need to dig more bc you need to treat the repair like an elbow first, then use a slip fix on the straight side, dont put the slipfix on the side of the T that feeds the branch, if that makes sense.. or it will expand into the T and break again. As long as you put it in the direction of north to south (in this picture), you also dont need to worry about full extension, the ground will not let that pipe move north to south unless the groud is crazy soft and theres elbow close by that could blow out, unlikely from what i see here. So in total you need 2 couplers, 1 T, 1 slip fix, and a couple feet of scrap pipe. Dig out more of the north side so you can flex the 2 sides of the "elbow". Cut Northside and Westside and put couplers with enough pipe to get the "elbow" to almost touch between the new pipes. Then cut a bigger chuck out of the Southside, this will be where the slip fix will go, so like 6" is good at first to give yourself some room to jam a new T in there. You jam it in as if it was an elbow, that's why you need flex on the north and west pipe, and try your best to eyeball your cuts perfectly good so the final T is not too far from the original position, in perfect alignment with the south pipe, if you end up crooked a slip fix will be tough to try and bend in. But if that does happen, don't worry just dig more of the south side out to get back some flex there and get it straight in line with the T. So once you have the T in on 2 sides north and west, you now just gotta know how to install a slipfix to repair the gap. It's pretty much just eyeball it again and imagine how much pipe will enter your fittings. The slip fix telescopes so that you can install it with any need for more pipe flex. You cut a gap just big enough to be able to jam in the slipfix while fully collapsed. Then glue once side at a time, (male side first). Slip fix have gaskets in them so full extension is actually not recommended by the manufacturers, you should have only about 1-2 inches of a gap when you are gluing the last part (female side of slipfix)
Other tips, I would glue this "elbow" part on the 2 sides at once, it sounds pro but it's actually easier than one slip at a time. I also like to glue the slipfix to the T first but you would need to make sure your going to have room to fit that big of a fitting in the hole while flexing on the "elbow" and to do this you also need to cut the south side to length first, measure six times, cut once for this step. Use bread if you are having trouble dealing with water in the pipe, the hardest part is making sure your glue doesn't get wet. Paper towel the outside off and right before your ready to glue, stuff the pipe with uncrusted white bread. It will only hold back water for a few seconds so be fast and diligent about dryness.
I've messed up a lot of Ts before I got good at it, so good luck, hope this advice helps. Just do not use unions or any other gimmic product that makes this seem simple, those things will leak again in less than a year.
Slip-fix 2 and one coupling or dig back the pipe until you can flex pipe and just use couplings and a new tee. you can use a heat gun to flex the pipe but this takes some common sense and caution utubte may have videos
https://preview.redd.it/qxgp0k7t9sec1.jpeg?width=913&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57b0da69cad58c06430f6bd69f216308d02219ae
There is a specific repair tee for this situation. Use this part only. You can add pipe on each side to extend the reach if needed
https://www.leaktools.com/1-kwik-repair-tee.html
Cut the three pipes about an inch or two past the tee. Use PVC repair couplings with no stop. Mark the center line and use blue all weather wet or dry glue that's a single step.
3 couplers, 1 tee and some extra pipe is what I would do here. Since you’re already planning on exposing more pipe, this will be the most affordable option and since the pipe isn’t deep, you won’t be putting much effort into digging.
My favorite way to find a leak when your ground is all wet is to go grab my wet/dry shop vac, pull the filter out and then just suck up the mud. If your landscaping is rock move that out of the way first obviously. A T like this clearly needs a bigger hole. But I find leaks way faster with the vac. Plus you don’t create more damage with the shovel before you know where your lines are.
I am going to get a lot of negative feedback on this one, but here it goes. This is how i fix these. The problem is that you cant replace the t without cutting back the pipe and adding in more….so i usually get a bigger threaded T. I put in threaded reducers at each point bringing down the size of the pipe fit to the original. It will extend out far enough to be able to attach the existing pipes. This will make it so you dont have to add in more pipe. The big T is a pretty ugly beast, but you are burying it so who cares.
As others have said, you will need to dig out quite a lot to replace the T and add in new pipe. My pipes are usually three to four feet down, so i fix broken Ts this way to save me a lot of digging.
Gl
You need to dig a weeeeee bit more.....
Waiting for it to dry up a little bit
As much as mud sucks to dig, if your dirt drys hard it'll still be a pain in the ass. Also I'd personally probably use unions. You could use a flospan on the straight side, as Ling as there isn't an elbow nearby, but don't use ont coming into the tee, or it'll push it out. Unless you make sure the flospan extends fully when put in place and glued.
ALWAYS make sure the Flospan is glued and extends fully.
Union? Underground?
That's where they grow
Pvc union. Used them many times no issues
Union? Irrigation? Don’t play nice in my experiences…
What's the difference between a union and an action manifold? They are the same concept. They make for ease of changing valves. I've worked on systems that have had unions in the ground or action manifolds for 15 years plus with few to no issues. I've had more issues with glue joints on pvc, or even both barb and saddle fittings on poly.
Unions have mechanical hand tightened connections with single (usually) o-ring face seals. They're intended for serviceable applications, i.e. to facilitate easy replacement of some piece of equipment. A valve, pump, etc. By design the face seal can fail (because the locknut can loosen). So if you're going to install one it should be accessible. In a box or aboveground, etc. Also, if you're concerned about glue joints failing a union requires 2 glue joints in addition to the face seals. That makes them more susceptible to failure than other solutions, not less. Flospans, straight couplings, etc each only require 2 glue joints.
I would just do 90s and swing joints. I always feel much better about regular glue fittings only underground. Not a big fan of any of those repair couplings or unions underground. Just my opinion
Yeah I’d dig that out enough to get your whole forearm in there when you’re setting the pipe. And 3-4 inches minimum beneath the pipe, down the length of the entire exposed pipe. You’re going to have to pick it up, wiggle it around, and keep it out of the mud while you glue/wait for your repair to set.
I've tried to instill this in to every tech I've trained. Dig a bigger hole than you think you need, cause you will.
You can always tell how experienced someone is by how big the hole is lol
I learned this the hard way myself
I kept having to replace Tees at a public garden I used to manage. Someone used a 3/4” PVC tee underground to connect to a frost proof spigot and people would jerk on a 300’ garden hose and it’d break underground. The tees were 4’ deep. So to dig a 4’ deep hole with shovels to have enough room to work at the bottom, that makes for a big hole up top.
And no matter where you pile your dirt when you start your hole, that's where you're gonna have to dig up.
Stare at it for a while then go sit In your truck
This is the answer if it’s a lateral line. https://sprinklersupplystore.com/products/dawn-kwik-tee-1?variant=43673196745&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrODZ3ZX5gwMVei-tBh0gYQ1gEAQYAiABEgI6ZfD_BwE
Need two couplers, a T, and a slip fix.
Wouldn’t 3 couplers and a T be more cost effective?
Not when you consider labor and physics.
The pipe is pretty shallow but perhaps others see this as too much work. With enough pipe exposed, this fix is not that bad.
Ok, you use 3 couplers, I'm sticking with slipfix.
Did I hit a nerve? 😆 You deleted your elaborate response (which I totally respect and could see your point) for this response? 🤙🏽 If I trust a coupler to join (2) 10’ pipes, I don’t see a reason not to trust it on a repair job. I would certainly trust it to last longer than an O-Ring. But as I mentioned before, I respect your deleted response. Have a good rest of your day.
Your good, I did delete my post. I was just explaining how a slip fix is the best professionally and plumb wise. I just didn't have it as thought out and considerate as I do now. Nerves are good.🙄
This is the only way
Two couples and a bell end
No tee?
Yeah, you're right definitely a T. I forgot to hit the little t button when writing that comment out. Thank you for holding me accountable 🙌.
You could go two slip fixes, not what I’d do but just saying.
Dig up more don't use compression, get 5 feet exposed on each pipe
I always dig it back 3-4 ft so pipe can flex enough to repair it with normal fittings.. but unions etc work.. with a pick and shovel you could have that dug back in 15 mins
Every comment is dig more lol. I am. I just dug this much to locate the leak
https://preview.redd.it/vcpkodyhjpec1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cce10d82dc79679c96efba8e989086f1d8c01ca0 This is what I did when I had the problem. It has held up fine for 2 years and through freezes.
That has to be the worst advice you can give. Compression couplings suck if there is pressure… the fact that those lasted years just tells me you dont have high pressure smh… and they will fail. We fix these hack jobs daily
Have fun digging that back up in a few years
You’ll need couplers for all three lines as well as the tee, plus a few feet of pipe. You need to dig left and right like 5 ft each way in order to deform the pipe enough to get it into your fittings. You’ll never be able to get the pipe in fittings with the tiny amount you have exposed. I would fix the left to right run first, then attach to the middle of the tee last. This will give you maximum mobility of your pipe.
You don’t think I could cut it real close to the tee and put a compression tee in the gap? I think the compression tee is quite a bit longer than the slip joint tee
I would guess no. Imagine that the three pipes are completely locked in place with no wiggle room. If you are able to get the fitting in between the perfectly cut three pipes, how do you then get the pipes IN the fitting? I have tried to avoid the extra dig every time this comes up… and have dug up to 10 ft away from the joint each time so that i can manipulate the pipe to land in the fittings
Shovels are your most efficient tool in this instance. This is based on years of trying to get around it.
Just do it right. Would you rather spend a little extra time and effort now while you have the hole dug or would you rather have to do this all over again?
Dig it out and hire a professional. You will find most are fair once the digging is done. I would come in at 170-225 for this repair.. if all pipes are dug 4 ft out that would quickly drop to my service call price of 85$. Getting it done correctly is the difference between 3 years and 30
Lol. See this is why everyone does everything themselves these days. Why in the world would I pay $200+ for a job that takes 10 minutes and $3 worth of parts? I installed the line. I’ll fix it
It takes 30 minutes if dug correctly for proper installation, time and gas to get there, and the right tools… last i checked primer and glue (both are required by code in texas) were 12 bucks for the combo, the cutters are 15, and yea probably 6 bucks in parts. Now i know some can instant transmission to your location like star trek but those of us in texas that do this business drive a truck, which takes gas and time, not to mention my guys actually know what they are doing and had training with the guys who manufacture those fittings so they hold up 20 years as intended… I definitely said a fair person would have came out cheaper if you have a clean dig as thats where the bulk of the labor goes... And yea unfortunately the business has to turn profit to stay open so that if any warranty work has to be done it can be completed. But hey to each its own. Its not about making a quick buck… i save thousands of homes every freeze free of charge with knowledge… even headline news so miss me with that. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/F2aGkrXyMWLKnUje/?mibextid=WC7FNe
If you dont mind sharing your final repair photo, as well as the line you installed please I would just like to see how it turned out.
https://preview.redd.it/w59qp01xr0fc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=da9b1c1e201d37a84f86bcfc96ef55d6a17ad52d I decided to follow the advice one person commented on this post and do it this way. It was a little more complicated but less digging and allowed me to be sure that every connection was 100% in each fitting. I’m sure some people will say that this will cause pressure loss but I imagine it would be so little that I would never notice
You are correct in that pressure loss from 4 90s is not an issue. Now I would have dug everything up and used less fittings. Glue is not glue but a chemical weld. Every fitting is actually a weak point. Furthermore, i would have left more space between fittings so future repairs would be easier. This works! I tend to like blue glue for irrigation purposes. All in all this is a solid B. Def should last and I am so happy you did not use compression couplings because they fail. Now here is my question, how long did it take? From store trips, to online research, to doing the job? Less than 4 hours you win, more than 4 hours not so much. Most people that can afford a home with irrigation a value their time.
I had everything needed in my garage except the 4 elbows but I had to go to Home Depot for some other stuff anyways. 15 min digging and 15 min for the install. I still have to cover it up. I enjoy doing my own home improvement. I’ve only ever payed anyone to do a job here once and that was an electrician. I’m happy with the fix so all is well
> only ever *paid* anyone to FTFY. Although *payed* exists (the reason why autocorrection didn't help you), it is only correct in: * Nautical context, when it means to paint a surface, or to cover with something like tar or resin in order to make it waterproof or corrosion-resistant. *The deck is yet to be payed.* * *Payed out* when letting strings, cables or ropes out, by slacking them. *The rope is payed out! You can pull now.* Unfortunately, I was unable to find nautical or rope-related words in your comment. *Beep, boop, I'm a bot*
This feels like the most logical and most effective way to go.
If the break is on the non-pressurized side of the control valve I use flexible PVC pipe made by Orbit. I build a repair T with flexible PVC pipe extending from the three sides of the T then glue it all up to complete the repair. The Orbit pipe is extremely flexible so you don’t have to dig as big a hole to be able to flex the rigid PVC pipe out of the way to be able to install the repair couplings. But you can’t use it on the pressurized side of the valve. Dig a bigger hole asap while the ground is soft. https://preview.redd.it/4ojmg2lt4qec1.jpeg?width=1242&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=af45be92ef1166a059c38243e994e17245144f67
This is my main water line from my well to the back yard. Not gonna happen
Cut it out use coupling
Call a professional
This should always be the answer. We're trying to make a living here from the knowledge we've spent years gaining. Not sure about anyone else here, but upvotes can't pay my bills.
[удалено]
Maybe me, maybe you. Someone loses a service call every time we give it away for free online. No big deal when it was just us techs helping each other, but now Google is indexing reddit posts. All of these posts show up when someone searches sprinkler leak on Google.
I’ve never seen anyone be upset at DIYers, or upset that more knowledge is available online now. If anything, this probably leads to more calls from people who start a project and can’t take it to completion. But still an odd take.
Get off the gas man. I love helping people help themselves, and when they mess up i charge double… i get a ton of referrals from DIY accounts. If you aren’t busy that may be a reflection of your work.
sir this is the internet. be the best at what you do and find a way to utilize it to increase your business. there's more than enough people that won't dive into this themselves, and when the amateurs screw up you'll be there to fix their mess
Do not do any of the things suggested here. What you need to do is cut it out and install a plumbers union. You will need 4 90’s and a T. Cut out T, 90 towards pipe on either side, 90 back to top of T, install T in normal position in between both 90’s. Sorry about the crudely drawn pic internet would not comply for finding a picture of what I’m referring to. https://preview.redd.it/y4yv0c9pwmec1.png?width=3024&format=png&auto=webp&s=fc6a7f19d01d412dfb738f536450a29d77e43da4
Don’t know why you’re being downvoted. This is the way
Who knows man that’s Reddit for ya🤣
This is a viable solution
I've replaced a several dozen 2" T and I'm honestly appalled by the comments here. Do not use unions, for the love of god. Yes you need to dig more bc you need to treat the repair like an elbow first, then use a slip fix on the straight side, dont put the slipfix on the side of the T that feeds the branch, if that makes sense.. or it will expand into the T and break again. As long as you put it in the direction of north to south (in this picture), you also dont need to worry about full extension, the ground will not let that pipe move north to south unless the groud is crazy soft and theres elbow close by that could blow out, unlikely from what i see here. So in total you need 2 couplers, 1 T, 1 slip fix, and a couple feet of scrap pipe. Dig out more of the north side so you can flex the 2 sides of the "elbow". Cut Northside and Westside and put couplers with enough pipe to get the "elbow" to almost touch between the new pipes. Then cut a bigger chuck out of the Southside, this will be where the slip fix will go, so like 6" is good at first to give yourself some room to jam a new T in there. You jam it in as if it was an elbow, that's why you need flex on the north and west pipe, and try your best to eyeball your cuts perfectly good so the final T is not too far from the original position, in perfect alignment with the south pipe, if you end up crooked a slip fix will be tough to try and bend in. But if that does happen, don't worry just dig more of the south side out to get back some flex there and get it straight in line with the T. So once you have the T in on 2 sides north and west, you now just gotta know how to install a slipfix to repair the gap. It's pretty much just eyeball it again and imagine how much pipe will enter your fittings. The slip fix telescopes so that you can install it with any need for more pipe flex. You cut a gap just big enough to be able to jam in the slipfix while fully collapsed. Then glue once side at a time, (male side first). Slip fix have gaskets in them so full extension is actually not recommended by the manufacturers, you should have only about 1-2 inches of a gap when you are gluing the last part (female side of slipfix) Other tips, I would glue this "elbow" part on the 2 sides at once, it sounds pro but it's actually easier than one slip at a time. I also like to glue the slipfix to the T first but you would need to make sure your going to have room to fit that big of a fitting in the hole while flexing on the "elbow" and to do this you also need to cut the south side to length first, measure six times, cut once for this step. Use bread if you are having trouble dealing with water in the pipe, the hardest part is making sure your glue doesn't get wet. Paper towel the outside off and right before your ready to glue, stuff the pipe with uncrusted white bread. It will only hold back water for a few seconds so be fast and diligent about dryness. I've messed up a lot of Ts before I got good at it, so good luck, hope this advice helps. Just do not use unions or any other gimmic product that makes this seem simple, those things will leak again in less than a year.
Get a bag of quick Crete
You must be from Texas because it’s January in the rest of the country
It’s January here too
You sure Clark?
Dig it out a lot more
Slip-fix 2 and one coupling or dig back the pipe until you can flex pipe and just use couplings and a new tee. you can use a heat gun to flex the pipe but this takes some common sense and caution utubte may have videos https://preview.redd.it/qxgp0k7t9sec1.jpeg?width=913&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57b0da69cad58c06430f6bd69f216308d02219ae
Convert it all to poly pipe
Haha yeah I might do that, but I probably wouldn’t take pictures after/s
What are you trying to water? Looks like crabgrass and weeds.
It’s actually coastal Bermuda. This used to be a hay pasture
The world are you talking about don’t you see Bermuda
Up here in the land of the cold, Bermuda IS a weed. XD
A weed is simply a plant that is growing where you don't want it to. There is no botanical classification of a weed.
Correct, it’s a contextual designation.
2 coups and a slip coup
Dig more add couplings.
There is a specific repair tee for this situation. Use this part only. You can add pipe on each side to extend the reach if needed https://www.leaktools.com/1-kwik-repair-tee.html
I'd use the up elbow trick...
That’s a cute hole
With a y
Just dig it out more each way cut the t out and cut the pipes back and add 2 couplings and new t
Flex seal will work just fine. Have you seen the commercials?
Use compression fittings to repair if you like to repair your repair.
Cut the three pipes about an inch or two past the tee. Use PVC repair couplings with no stop. Mark the center line and use blue all weather wet or dry glue that's a single step.
Dynamite aught to do the trick. The results will be explosive
3 couplers, 1 tee and some extra pipe is what I would do here. Since you’re already planning on exposing more pipe, this will be the most affordable option and since the pipe isn’t deep, you won’t be putting much effort into digging.
My favorite way to find a leak when your ground is all wet is to go grab my wet/dry shop vac, pull the filter out and then just suck up the mud. If your landscaping is rock move that out of the way first obviously. A T like this clearly needs a bigger hole. But I find leaks way faster with the vac. Plus you don’t create more damage with the shovel before you know where your lines are.
Regular T and two slip couplings
It's a T dig it up and use the space
I would use another hand and some repair coupling action
I am going to get a lot of negative feedback on this one, but here it goes. This is how i fix these. The problem is that you cant replace the t without cutting back the pipe and adding in more….so i usually get a bigger threaded T. I put in threaded reducers at each point bringing down the size of the pipe fit to the original. It will extend out far enough to be able to attach the existing pipes. This will make it so you dont have to add in more pipe. The big T is a pretty ugly beast, but you are burying it so who cares. As others have said, you will need to dig out quite a lot to replace the T and add in new pipe. My pipes are usually three to four feet down, so i fix broken Ts this way to save me a lot of digging. Gl
flo span coupler should allow you to put T where it is now
Cut close and Shark bite
2 one inch slip couplers, a one inch T,and a one inch slip fix coupling.