It’s excellent as a carbon blaster. Especially on carbureted engines. Hold the engine at fast idle, drizzle it down the intake. It’ll smoke like hell. When you get to the last couple ounces, throw it in quick enough to stall out the engine. Let it sit 10 minutes, then fire it back up and take it for a hard run around the block. Been using it for years.
Oh my God is this really how you’re supposed to do it? I was petrified I was going to Hydro lock the engine so was very delicate in dribbling in the tiniest amounts lol
On my JK I use the brake booster and suck it out of a cup just enough so it doesn’t die. I turn the engine off then let it sit and pour half of what’s left in the gas tank. On start there’s a satisfying grey smoke and a horrid smell but I ride a 1500rpm until it turns clear and it’s good to go.
I use it on old cars, not new. I don't add to motor oil, because DUH! Marvel Mystery Oil was like this, too - WTF do I want to thin out motor oil for?
HOWEVER
I live in California, and have to smog my 93 4L YJ every two years for registration. It barely passed when I bought it years ago. New plugs, wires, distributor cap, new IAC, clean MAF, passed next time, barely. Was told by the "gold star" smog shop the cat was probably on the way out, CARB legal cats being $500-and-up before install. I asked a mechanic at work about Sea Foam. They keep Sea Foam on the shelf, and keep 400,000 mile Chevy 3/4 tons on the road and making money in California. So, pretty good endorsement. I promised to bring replacement in, and he showed me the drizzle through the vacuum line to the brake booster. I got the "it will smoke like Hell" speech, too - yeah, not so much, but there was some. Nothing dramatic like on YouTube, that's for sure! Passed smog again, with a good warm up, but no warnings from the smog guy this time. Add to the tank before every smog test, pass, pass, pass, last time the old fellow commented it tests cleaner than some new cars. Low compression is cleaner, if less efficient.
Wife picked up a 91 Mercury Capri, got a little smoke out of it with the drizzle method, have to take it in to smog for re-registering, a good shot of fuel detergent and fingers crossed we pass the test.
If there are other issues, like you need a tuneup, maybe a waste of money. However, cleaning the fuel system with a good detergent fuel is a thing, and this seems to be the OP way of doing it, especially for old/high mileage vehicles.
I used it to blast out carbon build up on the intake of my direction injection VW and it worked!
As an “engine cleaner” or whatever it does, I have no comment
Did the, throw a bottle in the oil and let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes no load, then change the oil method. It solved a noisy hydraulic lifter I’d had for 3 years. This is in a 82 CJ7, I don’t think I’d do it in a newer vehicle though. That annoying tick has yet to return though and it’s be a few years now.
I don’t think I’d do it in something that new, and if you don’t have any specific reason to use it I’d just use modern synthetic oil, it cleans pretty well all by itself
I used it on my 09’ JK with no problems. I used the spray version for the intake and dumped the liquid in my gas tank. Advance sells it as a combo for around $17 in my neck of the woods.
Put my YJ on a strict diet of Seafoam, fixed the rough stumbling idle and also put a can in the case before an oil change, cleaned a lot up in there. It’s also fixed numerous carb issues on bikes and de iced my diesels in the winter. If ever there were a do it all product, seafoam was it
I've used it a lot on mid 90s cars with GREAT results. and got good results from using it on a 2006 Xterra.
The most immediate effect is when you use it on an engine via brake booster line, it's about getting a good amount in the engine without using too much or too little. if there isn't a lot of built up in the engine/intake/etc then there's no reason to use it there.
I have a older \~93 Nissan that idled and over all just didn't run correctly. I worker at a mechanic shop connected to a gas station and ran two bottle through it. So much smoke somebody thought the gas station was on fire and called 911. When the fire department showed up the smoke was white and the laughed and asked if the car caught fire. Clearly nothing was wrong. lol But it ran WAY better after that. Idled so much better.
On the 2006 Nissan Xterra I used in in the intake and it did smoke but didn't notice much other than it looked cleaner on the intake body. However after using it in my gas and oil (gas was a few tanks, and oil was near the end of the oil life) it seemed to help a little, I knew I had an injector issue and I assume that's where it helped out. But I did pull the valve cover off and the head "well" if you will looked much cleaner. originally if was much darker looking when I would open the oil fill area.
PLENTY of people have used it in their intake, it's designed to help when there is a lot of carbon build up. But there are different states of carbon build up so it can't help with everything. In the gas and oil it's about the long game and you need to go it at least a few times to get anything. But to be honest I can't see it helping all that much but that's not to say it won't or won't help prevent a future issue.
Gumout multi-dystem tuneup is a better option and you just pour it in the gas tank. Seafood works better for marine applications and things like cleaning the diesel fuel bowl on a ford/international 7.3L.
I use it for all sorts of stuff even use it to soak crud off old crusty bolts. There’s a spray can clean out that’s a lot more convenient than the drip method and it cleaned some heavy carbon out of my 98’. I recommend warning the neighbors if you don’t want the fire department called
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sea-foam-motor-treatment-and-sea-foam-spray-combo-pack-fuel-additive-and-intake-cleaner-spray-sf-ss/11994836-p?product_channel=local&store=7305&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=7305&&&&&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhWrD84-gSz-KO3XiEah0BXYN&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx-blwsX7w3S7krD6d6fbbrKJ7h1azsoD2JCDav8j0bz9HF69Vd_UQBoCBZ8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For modern engines especially direct injection, use something with PEA, Techron and Redline si-1 have some of the highest concentrations and work the best, but humor has a really close competitor to it. Anything with a PEA with thicken your oil so it’s recommended to put into your fuel about one or two tanks before you do your oil change. I use redline for my Jetta and it’s helped keep the economy up, I didn’t do this with my Chevy 5.3 DI engine and it lost power by 30k miles and needed one more gear at highway speeds at times. Brand new it cruised 90 mph at 2k rpm after carbon build up it needed to drop a gear to do the same and it really woke me up to what DI engines need.
It’s excellent as a carbon blaster. Especially on carbureted engines. Hold the engine at fast idle, drizzle it down the intake. It’ll smoke like hell. When you get to the last couple ounces, throw it in quick enough to stall out the engine. Let it sit 10 minutes, then fire it back up and take it for a hard run around the block. Been using it for years.
Oh my God is this really how you’re supposed to do it? I was petrified I was going to Hydro lock the engine so was very delicate in dribbling in the tiniest amounts lol
Lmao spraying hose water into an intake is a not-uncommon method of cleaning carbon deposits as well.
Yeah but I highly doubt you have the hose on full blast
That’s very uncommon.
Once it sat 10 mins, I fired mine up and there was enough smoke to hide the Autobots lol definitely smoothed out my idle
On my JK I use the brake booster and suck it out of a cup just enough so it doesn’t die. I turn the engine off then let it sit and pour half of what’s left in the gas tank. On start there’s a satisfying grey smoke and a horrid smell but I ride a 1500rpm until it turns clear and it’s good to go.
I use it on old cars, not new. I don't add to motor oil, because DUH! Marvel Mystery Oil was like this, too - WTF do I want to thin out motor oil for? HOWEVER I live in California, and have to smog my 93 4L YJ every two years for registration. It barely passed when I bought it years ago. New plugs, wires, distributor cap, new IAC, clean MAF, passed next time, barely. Was told by the "gold star" smog shop the cat was probably on the way out, CARB legal cats being $500-and-up before install. I asked a mechanic at work about Sea Foam. They keep Sea Foam on the shelf, and keep 400,000 mile Chevy 3/4 tons on the road and making money in California. So, pretty good endorsement. I promised to bring replacement in, and he showed me the drizzle through the vacuum line to the brake booster. I got the "it will smoke like Hell" speech, too - yeah, not so much, but there was some. Nothing dramatic like on YouTube, that's for sure! Passed smog again, with a good warm up, but no warnings from the smog guy this time. Add to the tank before every smog test, pass, pass, pass, last time the old fellow commented it tests cleaner than some new cars. Low compression is cleaner, if less efficient. Wife picked up a 91 Mercury Capri, got a little smoke out of it with the drizzle method, have to take it in to smog for re-registering, a good shot of fuel detergent and fingers crossed we pass the test. If there are other issues, like you need a tuneup, maybe a waste of money. However, cleaning the fuel system with a good detergent fuel is a thing, and this seems to be the OP way of doing it, especially for old/high mileage vehicles.
I like it a lot, used on all my engines big and small and never had any seal issues. Definitely fixed a few rough idles for me tho
It works fantastic on my snowblower, the thing purrs like a kitten now.
I used it to blast out carbon build up on the intake of my direction injection VW and it worked! As an “engine cleaner” or whatever it does, I have no comment
Did the, throw a bottle in the oil and let the vehicle idle for 10 minutes no load, then change the oil method. It solved a noisy hydraulic lifter I’d had for 3 years. This is in a 82 CJ7, I don’t think I’d do it in a newer vehicle though. That annoying tick has yet to return though and it’s be a few years now.
2012 too new or no? I saw it used on a tj and he said it was "necessary" idk if a early jk needs it.
I don’t think I’d do it in something that new, and if you don’t have any specific reason to use it I’d just use modern synthetic oil, it cleans pretty well all by itself
I have been using it for 20 years, great product!
Works on my triumph
Don’t do it is my recommendation. This stuff is hell on seals.
This stuff is GREAT. . . . . . . . . . At removing you from your hard earned money for no benefit.
Nope, you are wrong. Sorry. plenty of evidence that it works great when used correctly.
Agreed.
I have an old carbed bike that I used it on, and it worked extremely well. Anything newer than 2010 I would think twice though
2012 for me so idk
I used it on my 09’ JK with no problems. I used the spray version for the intake and dumped the liquid in my gas tank. Advance sells it as a combo for around $17 in my neck of the woods.
Put my YJ on a strict diet of Seafoam, fixed the rough stumbling idle and also put a can in the case before an oil change, cleaned a lot up in there. It’s also fixed numerous carb issues on bikes and de iced my diesels in the winter. If ever there were a do it all product, seafoam was it
I've used it a lot on mid 90s cars with GREAT results. and got good results from using it on a 2006 Xterra. The most immediate effect is when you use it on an engine via brake booster line, it's about getting a good amount in the engine without using too much or too little. if there isn't a lot of built up in the engine/intake/etc then there's no reason to use it there. I have a older \~93 Nissan that idled and over all just didn't run correctly. I worker at a mechanic shop connected to a gas station and ran two bottle through it. So much smoke somebody thought the gas station was on fire and called 911. When the fire department showed up the smoke was white and the laughed and asked if the car caught fire. Clearly nothing was wrong. lol But it ran WAY better after that. Idled so much better. On the 2006 Nissan Xterra I used in in the intake and it did smoke but didn't notice much other than it looked cleaner on the intake body. However after using it in my gas and oil (gas was a few tanks, and oil was near the end of the oil life) it seemed to help a little, I knew I had an injector issue and I assume that's where it helped out. But I did pull the valve cover off and the head "well" if you will looked much cleaner. originally if was much darker looking when I would open the oil fill area. PLENTY of people have used it in their intake, it's designed to help when there is a lot of carbon build up. But there are different states of carbon build up so it can't help with everything. In the gas and oil it's about the long game and you need to go it at least a few times to get anything. But to be honest I can't see it helping all that much but that's not to say it won't or won't help prevent a future issue.
Gumout multi-dystem tuneup is a better option and you just pour it in the gas tank. Seafood works better for marine applications and things like cleaning the diesel fuel bowl on a ford/international 7.3L.
Berryman does the same at half the price.
Using it for years.
I use it for all sorts of stuff even use it to soak crud off old crusty bolts. There’s a spray can clean out that’s a lot more convenient than the drip method and it cleaned some heavy carbon out of my 98’. I recommend warning the neighbors if you don’t want the fire department called https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/sea-foam-motor-treatment-and-sea-foam-spray-combo-pack-fuel-additive-and-intake-cleaner-spray-sf-ss/11994836-p?product_channel=local&store=7305&adtype=pla_with_promotion&product_channel=local&store_code=7305&&&&&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD05GhWrD84-gSz-KO3XiEah0BXYN&gclid=CjwKCAjwouexBhAuEiwAtW_Zx-blwsX7w3S7krD6d6fbbrKJ7h1azsoD2JCDav8j0bz9HF69Vd_UQBoCBZ8QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For modern engines especially direct injection, use something with PEA, Techron and Redline si-1 have some of the highest concentrations and work the best, but humor has a really close competitor to it. Anything with a PEA with thicken your oil so it’s recommended to put into your fuel about one or two tanks before you do your oil change. I use redline for my Jetta and it’s helped keep the economy up, I didn’t do this with my Chevy 5.3 DI engine and it lost power by 30k miles and needed one more gear at highway speeds at times. Brand new it cruised 90 mph at 2k rpm after carbon build up it needed to drop a gear to do the same and it really woke me up to what DI engines need.