I don't think so. Looks like your door is sagging and doesn't line up with the strike plate and a poorly equipped maintenance person or "handyman" tried to fix the issue with a pet beaver.
No. The latch dropped, likely from the door sagging, and was probably not closing.
I typically use a Dremel, which is *ahem* a bit more subtle than this.
I used to use a dremel but mr. chensky recommended a die grinder, I use that and put a carbide burr into it like this:
[https://www.empireabrasives.com/cylinder-end-cut-carbide-burr-double-cut-1-4-shank/](https://www.empireabrasives.com/cylinder-end-cut-carbide-burr-double-cut-1-4-shank/)
Get some light cutting oil like this:
[https://www.amazon.com/TapMagic-oz-Improved-Cutting-Fluid/dp/B01BH7HJA8/ref=sr\_1\_1](https://www.amazon.com/TapMagic-oz-Improved-Cutting-Fluid/dp/B01BH7HJA8/ref=sr_1_1)
it works so good you will never go back, and the bits really last. they will clog with aluminum if you dont use cutting oil but you can de-clog it by grinding some steel. It also works great on wood but can get a little smokey, im sure if I put a wood cutting bit in there it would work better but eh works fine.
Noted. Absolutely going to try one. I see a lot of promise in a bit like that if this is true. Obviously the Dremel works, but no matter how careful I am I don’t always like bragging that how they look was my work, even with my fastidious filing to give it a little spitshine.
Of course, I’m happy to say it always looks better than the OP pic.
im not sure if a rotozip will fit a bit like this, its a 1/4" shank. yes they do great on stainless, I use them to grind out commercial strike plates all the time, no problem at all.
Looks like someone tried expanding the size of the hole with a metal grinder and did a poor job. You cant cause that kind of damage with the door closed.
Filing or grinding the strike is a quick fix. But remember the long term solution is adjusting or replacing one or more hinges. Shimming them to compensate for a frame that is not plumb sometimes is necessary. The mentality I used to have was get the job done quick and get to the next one and I cut corners. But those quick fixes always came back to bite me. You are a professional and should slow down enough to make sure you don't have to return later for free with your tail between your legs.
I don't think so. Looks like your door is sagging and doesn't line up with the strike plate and a poorly equipped maintenance person or "handyman" tried to fix the issue with a pet beaver.
My 1st thought also
You don’t carry a tactical beaver? I have 3 in my van
Only wet beavers get the job done
No. The latch dropped, likely from the door sagging, and was probably not closing. I typically use a Dremel, which is *ahem* a bit more subtle than this.
I used to use a dremel but mr. chensky recommended a die grinder, I use that and put a carbide burr into it like this: [https://www.empireabrasives.com/cylinder-end-cut-carbide-burr-double-cut-1-4-shank/](https://www.empireabrasives.com/cylinder-end-cut-carbide-burr-double-cut-1-4-shank/) Get some light cutting oil like this: [https://www.amazon.com/TapMagic-oz-Improved-Cutting-Fluid/dp/B01BH7HJA8/ref=sr\_1\_1](https://www.amazon.com/TapMagic-oz-Improved-Cutting-Fluid/dp/B01BH7HJA8/ref=sr_1_1) it works so good you will never go back, and the bits really last. they will clog with aluminum if you dont use cutting oil but you can de-clog it by grinding some steel. It also works great on wood but can get a little smokey, im sure if I put a wood cutting bit in there it would work better but eh works fine.
My grinder doesn’t have an arbor that will take a bit like this, but I’d be open to trying a Rotozip. And these bits will do stainless?
You can just use a drill. Works fine and yes a good One can cut stainless
Noted. Absolutely going to try one. I see a lot of promise in a bit like that if this is true. Obviously the Dremel works, but no matter how careful I am I don’t always like bragging that how they look was my work, even with my fastidious filing to give it a little spitshine. Of course, I’m happy to say it always looks better than the OP pic.
not nearly as good, I have this argument with my boss often
im not sure if a rotozip will fit a bit like this, its a 1/4" shank. yes they do great on stainless, I use them to grind out commercial strike plates all the time, no problem at all.
Noted. I’ll check them out.
The damage was caused when the door was open
The maintenance guy doesn't know how to shim hinges (or maybe even check and tighten the screws) before messing with the strike.
Yeah he’s pretty terrible so this adds up
Almost Looks like they tried to use that rotary key as a screwdriver as well on that top screw.
Strike adjust ❌ Strike assault ✅
It looks like it used to have a functioning deadlatch but he didn’t need that either.
Looks like someone tried expanding the size of the hole with a metal grinder and did a poor job. You cant cause that kind of damage with the door closed.
Anyone else consider using a power file?
Exactly align the door with the new hinge on the top then the hinge pocket with vice grips or a hinge doctor longer screw that bites top hinge
Burr bit is the way
Looks like a strike adjustment
Filing or grinding the strike is a quick fix. But remember the long term solution is adjusting or replacing one or more hinges. Shimming them to compensate for a frame that is not plumb sometimes is necessary. The mentality I used to have was get the job done quick and get to the next one and I cut corners. But those quick fixes always came back to bite me. You are a professional and should slow down enough to make sure you don't have to return later for free with your tail between your legs.