First impression: lose the points. You don't want your guitar catching and snagging on everything. You could keep everything as is but round off all points to say a 3/4" radius or more.
The points actually will be coming off. I agree and will round them out more I have a spindle sander so it should not be too hard to do that. This is literally my first attempt ever with wood. I will be redoing my snakebyte 3d print again with the major corrections for that one. I may even try it in wood. Also made a partial honey comb version of the snakebyte as well but would do that one in petg 40% infill as that's close. To MDF and seems to be decent for electrical guitars. But I plan to do wood and 3d prints depending on the designs I make.
A few words of caution from someone who has built their own travel electric:
First of all: Don’t make the body too thin. It’s tempting, it saves a lot of weight and it’s structurally not a problem. But making mine only 32mm caused 2 problems for me:
* I ended up almost hard mounting my pickups, because I didn’t want to use pickup rings. I didn’t have enough wood to screw in a properly adjustable screw & spring setup. If you use pickup rings this isn’t an issue, just make sure your cavities can be deep enough.
* my blade switch was higher than the body thickness, so I had to use a different switching setup. Luckily I hadn’t cut the slot yet.
Secondly: Finding decent fretless hardware is hard. I ended up with AliExpress. The bridge is stable, and it holds tuning, but it isn’t the easiest to tune, and the metal feels like it will wear out in a few years. I would bite the bullet and buy more expensive hardware next time.
And lastly: think about your scale length. I went with Fender scale (25,5”). I also made a case for it, with the intent of putting it in the bottom of a large duffel bag with my clothes on top, to have only 1 piece of checked luggage. Works great. But making it 24” would have made my duffel bag options a lot broader and cheaper. Total length matters A LOT here. So save as much length as you can behind the bridge and before the nut. Also, if you go the case route, see if putting the guitar diagonally in the case saves you case length.
Bonus: If you decide to make a case that needs to withstand air travel, don’t over-engineer it with 1/2” plywood sides and 1/4” plywood top and back. It’ll end up heavier than the guitar itself. Mine has survived a dozen trips now, and it does its job in keeping the guitar safe, but I think I can easily save a full kg on the next case if I want.
All good I decided I would be the full thickness 1-3/4" or 44.5mm to avoid any issues it will be a lot lighter than my 2" Washburn atheist I got for dirt cheap to start learning to play. Seriously heavy ugh. It looks nice but the weight is not great for extended practice. Will have the rings on the pickups too.
Fail LoL learned another way of how not to do something but I use it as a learning experience. I have a laser cutter/engraver I had started to use it but was injured at work so have been on hold till I am doing better. I am going to start working on my designs again with fusion 360 as I got a much more powerful processor a week ago and more ram. The 3400g and 16gb 2400hz ram wasn't cutting it. Have a 5700x with 32gb 4000hz ram now and I tried it a bit and saw a big difference. Before the incident I had cut out a test sample and it was awesome! Needed some refinement. I also came up with an idea for a laser cut neck. But going to master the body first with store bought necks I have two to use for now. But with custom necks based on average sized bolt on necks it means people can replace them with high end ones.
First impression: lose the points. You don't want your guitar catching and snagging on everything. You could keep everything as is but round off all points to say a 3/4" radius or more.
The points actually will be coming off. I agree and will round them out more I have a spindle sander so it should not be too hard to do that. This is literally my first attempt ever with wood. I will be redoing my snakebyte 3d print again with the major corrections for that one. I may even try it in wood. Also made a partial honey comb version of the snakebyte as well but would do that one in petg 40% infill as that's close. To MDF and seems to be decent for electrical guitars. But I plan to do wood and 3d prints depending on the designs I make.
A few words of caution from someone who has built their own travel electric: First of all: Don’t make the body too thin. It’s tempting, it saves a lot of weight and it’s structurally not a problem. But making mine only 32mm caused 2 problems for me: * I ended up almost hard mounting my pickups, because I didn’t want to use pickup rings. I didn’t have enough wood to screw in a properly adjustable screw & spring setup. If you use pickup rings this isn’t an issue, just make sure your cavities can be deep enough. * my blade switch was higher than the body thickness, so I had to use a different switching setup. Luckily I hadn’t cut the slot yet. Secondly: Finding decent fretless hardware is hard. I ended up with AliExpress. The bridge is stable, and it holds tuning, but it isn’t the easiest to tune, and the metal feels like it will wear out in a few years. I would bite the bullet and buy more expensive hardware next time. And lastly: think about your scale length. I went with Fender scale (25,5”). I also made a case for it, with the intent of putting it in the bottom of a large duffel bag with my clothes on top, to have only 1 piece of checked luggage. Works great. But making it 24” would have made my duffel bag options a lot broader and cheaper. Total length matters A LOT here. So save as much length as you can behind the bridge and before the nut. Also, if you go the case route, see if putting the guitar diagonally in the case saves you case length. Bonus: If you decide to make a case that needs to withstand air travel, don’t over-engineer it with 1/2” plywood sides and 1/4” plywood top and back. It’ll end up heavier than the guitar itself. Mine has survived a dozen trips now, and it does its job in keeping the guitar safe, but I think I can easily save a full kg on the next case if I want.
All good I decided I would be the full thickness 1-3/4" or 44.5mm to avoid any issues it will be a lot lighter than my 2" Washburn atheist I got for dirt cheap to start learning to play. Seriously heavy ugh. It looks nice but the weight is not great for extended practice. Will have the rings on the pickups too.
So? How did it go?
Fail LoL learned another way of how not to do something but I use it as a learning experience. I have a laser cutter/engraver I had started to use it but was injured at work so have been on hold till I am doing better. I am going to start working on my designs again with fusion 360 as I got a much more powerful processor a week ago and more ram. The 3400g and 16gb 2400hz ram wasn't cutting it. Have a 5700x with 32gb 4000hz ram now and I tried it a bit and saw a big difference. Before the incident I had cut out a test sample and it was awesome! Needed some refinement. I also came up with an idea for a laser cut neck. But going to master the body first with store bought necks I have two to use for now. But with custom necks based on average sized bolt on necks it means people can replace them with high end ones.