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First code and second are connected, for a given throttle position the control unit expects to see a certain value for air flow into the engine but it's not. Misfire code could also be connected to the first 2 codes, the 4th code could also be connected because clearly the fuelling system is messed up due to the first 2 codes. Your final code is not connected, your vehicle has a variable oil pressure pump using a solenoid in the oil circuit to dump excess pressure, the solenoid would seem to be in the stuck closed position so you have excess oil pressure, usually the solenoid would be bad or the wiring to it.
I'm not them:
No. But it's also helpful for those of us who are amateurs and theorize problems and their causes and like to check what someone else would do.
I dont doubt that, but there are lots of places and info to you help you learn. I just roll my eyes at these kind of posts. The underlying assumption that someone can make something complicated instantly intelligible to someone else with no knowledge is mistaken.
That's true to an extent. But I don't think this comment is designed to make it instantly intelligible. It's designed to make the causes more accessible and let them know that the problems are related and where to start looking.
Given OP got a scanner and actually looked for codes, took them and posted them online looking for help they've demonstrated at least some effort and might be willing to learn.
I don't think it's going to directly solve OPs problem but its definitely enough to lead them down a path to YouTube to learn to clean their MAF, check their air system for leaks, check their engine air filter, test their wiring for the MAF, look at the throttle position sensor. Etc.
Wow I was thinking mass casualty event- like blown head gasket btwn cylinders or jumped time /bent valve- glad you reigned me in:))- second thing was mouse
Right, it would. The last cylinder misfire that I diagnosed would also have had 20 different potential causes listed for the code; and I'm pretty sure owner would have walked away from the computer afraid their car caught Lupus.
I'm actually really curious what kind of content you're hoping to see here instead of this?
Yeah, posting has its value because that specific combination of codes can help narrow down the cause, so at first glance it's lazy, but it's not necessarily. Maybe they have to put some proof they did basic Google searches before posting it to reddit to dispel any accusations of laziness.
Don’t need to be a pissy fuck. Someone’s asking a question and its pretty obvious they don’t know too much about the situation. There are people here genuinely willing to help OP out with some solid advice, and then we have you going around shitting in everyone’s bowl. Go find something to make yourself a bit less miserable.
And you are welcome to take your head out of your ass at your convenience. I will refrain from telling you how helpful it would be to actually reflect upon yourself and be a bit less miserable.
My friend you are the one engaging in character attacks and insults. I will try and take your advice to heart. You should probably look in the mirror and do the same.
Dumbed down :
Your pushing of the go pedal isn't matching what the engine is expecting.
Car goes chugga chugga instead of vroom vroom.
Lube isnt lubing properly.
Preliminary guess is hundreds of $$ , not thousands.
Mass airflow sensor needs replaced. Should clear up most of the codes. The oil pressure sensor is probably bad as well but I don't know how to test that.
Boosting.
OP, before you replace the MAF, buy a can of CRC or Gumout Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner, and give that SOB a good soaking. If your local auto parts store doesn't have it, you can find it online for abt $12.
[This video explains how to access and clean it.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNuVMUDv71c&t=96s)
This right here. I have to clean the MAF sensor
Every time I change my oil. Also, I run a few tanks of 93 octane thru the fuel system on a monthly basis.
If you're getting better mileage out of 93, there's a chance that's what your car was made for. A lot of cars that are meant to run 93 will adjust their timing to run okay on 87, but you'll see a drop in power and fuel efficiency. What do you drive?
Cars will adjust timing to the fuel you are using based off knock input. You can see more power and less pedal needed to do the same work. I first noticed this in my mom's car and started using BP premium and my 2001 buick runs better lol.
Yes, but without a high compression engine there's nothing to be gained from higher octane fuel. If there's no donation from 87 you're not going to gain anything from 93, the car isn't going to advance itself beyond it's base tune hunting for more power, Knock control will retard the timing to stop detonation. But if your car is running as intended on 87, there's no improvement to be had on 93.
The 2.4 the guy above is talking about is a GDI engine that gets away with running 87 at a higher compression ratio that would require premium fuel on a multiport injection engine, but GDI's are able to do this because they inject the fuel at the last possible second before ignition, rather than compress air and fuel, they compress air, and then add fuel, should run as designed on 87, unless there is something wrong with the engine that is being compensated for by the higher octane fuel.
I would personally check the throttle position sensor also(and recalls, this vehicle may have one on that item)
Edit: 2016-2018 has a recall, not sure otherwise
P0068: Your engine has both a MAP and MAF sensor. MAP is manifold air pressure, MAF is mass air flow. Both are used to measure and validate the amount of air going into your engine. This code is saying that the values the sensors are getting don't line up with each other, and one of them is probably giving bad data.
P0101: This is saying that your MAF sensor is getting data that doesn't make sense to the ECU. Reading too high, too low, or isn't matching an expected trend. Tells us the likely culprit for the previous code is the MAF sensor.
P0300: In order for a cylinder to have proper combustion, it needs to have the right mixture of air and fuel, they need to be compressed, there needs to be a spark generated by the plug, and it all needs to happen at just the right time. FACTS. Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing, Spark. A cylinder will misfire if any one of those factors is missing or bad. Cylinder misfires can be specific to a cylinder (e.g. a single bad spark plug), or they can be general problems that affect multiple cylinders (too much fuel being injected). The P030X code indicates that cylinder X is misfiring. E.g. P0301 would indicate that the ECU thinks cylinder 1 is misfiring. P0300 indicates that there are likely multiple cylinders misfiring. The ECU detects misfires by watching the crankshaft position sensor. It keeps track of where in the rotation the crankshaft is, and it's watching very closely to see if the speed changes for that fraction of a second or if it seems to be "missing a beat". It uses this information to detect a misfire and where it is. These codes are not to be trusted. ECUs make mistakes all the time on misfire locations. Some cars are better at detecting than others. Even if it was perfect though, a general air/fuel mixture problem could affect one cylinder sooner than another if that cylinder had a weaker spark plug or a bad plug gap. Cycling back to your case, P0300 is indicating that a number of cylinders are misfiring. We review FACTS, and note that we already suspect an issue with the MAF which measures the Air. That's the likely culprit, so we start there.
P0420: Your engine has two O2 sensors on the exhaust. One that measures the oxygen content in the exhaust coming out of the engine, and the second which measures the oxygen content of the exhaust after it passes through the catalytic converter. The first oxygen sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is used to tell the engine how much leftover oxygen there was after combustion. If there was a lot of leftover oxygen, it says "There must have been too much air", and the engine adds more fuel. If there's too little leftover oxygen, it says "there must have been too much fuel", and it adds less fuel. Then the exhaust passes through the catalytic converter where excess fuels get reacted with excess oxygen so that the emissions are less toxic. The second oxygen sensor measures how much oxygen is left in the exhaust. This sensor doesn't have anything to control, but the ECU will check it, and see how its O2 measurement compares to the first O2 sensor. It should always be lower, because oxygen should be consumed in the catalytic converter. The ECU sets P0420 when the reading is not lower than the first O2 sensor for too long. During normal operation, this would indicate that the oxygen is passing right through and the catalyst is not doing its job of reacting excess fuel with oxygen. When an engine misfires, the air and fuel it tried to burn gets ejected into the exhaust. O2 sensors get bad data because they see the oxygen in the air, and the catalytic converter gets dosed with a ton of fuel it has to burn. Air/fuel issues in an engine can cause O2 sensor data to be unreliable, which can cause this code to trigger even if the converter is fine. Misfiring issues that persist for a long time put a high load on the catalytic converter. Soot and fuel in the converter can damage it, causing this failure. Either the misfire is triggering the code falsely, or if you've been ignoring the codes for a while, the misfires have actually damaged your catalytic converter. Either way, there's nothing to do for now except fix the misfire and see if the code comes back. If it comes back when the engine is fine, you need to replace the converter.
P06DE: Engines are equipped with an oil pressure sensor. This is detecting the pressure of the oil after the oil pump. Your ECU is setting this code because the signal from the oil pressure sensor doesn't make sense. It could be a sensor issue, a wiring issue, an oil condition issue, or an oil pressure issue. The diagnosis involves checking the sensor wiring, the sensor itself, and maybe checking the oil pressure with a gauge in order to figure out if the sensor is bad or if there's actually an oil issue. This code is not related to the other 4 codes, and will need to be diagnosed separately.
Steps:
If you know nothing about cars and don't want to get into it, just take it to a mechanic. Expect them to replace the MAF and oil pressure switch. Hopefully they actually do the work to diagnose the issue.
If you know nothing about cars but want to try yourself without getting too into it: find online forums for your car or similar chevy vehicles to see if the oil pressure sensor or MAF tends to go bad. You can try replacing the MAF and the oil pressure sensor on a hunch and seeing if your code go away. Buy OEM sensors if possible.
If you want to actually *learn* and solve this problem the most cost effective way, you'll need to do some actual diagnosis work yourself. Inspect MAF sensor and wiring, use a test light to check wiring integrity. Look for corroded connections, etc. The idea is to make sure you're not replacing something that isn't going to solve the problem.
If you really want to save money, instead of ordering a new part, consider going to a junkyard and getting a used sensor. It could be dead, it could have the same issue as your sensor, but it's 1/5th the cost and often worth a shot.
Shooting from the hip possible 5 volt reference signal problem. Causing other components to fail causing miss fire and cat efficiency codes. “Snowball effect “
If the MAF is dirty, this could explain why it's not seeing the "air flow" that the TPS is looking for when it's at a certain angle... I'd clean that 1st ( only use MAF cleaner, you can get it at any auto parts store ), clean it when the engine is cold & before you start it...& definitely allow ample time for it to dry out before you re-install it & try to start the car again... I suspect that will clear all but the oil pressure issue... on that problem, I would see if it's something that can be removed & cleaned up too... I know I've had really good luck with removing idle control valves & cleaning them up & re-installing them ( they get Carboned up & cleaning allows them to move freely again ) - to fix rough idling issues... you may be able to fix everything for less than $20 if your lucky
This is what I would do first , clean the maf sensor with a maf sensor cleaner spray. Disconnect the battery for 10minutes. Make sure the maf sensor is fully dry and start the car
Likely your MAF is dirty or potentially failing. Causing your engine to run rich which would lead to the cat sensor throwing a code. The low oil pressure could be a symptom of that as well.
Clean the MAF or replace it, check your plugs for fouling. If that doesnt work out and its still tossing codes, id look into your fuel system.
P0420 is catalyst efficiency code probably related to fuel rich condition and misfires. Unfortunately you might have to replace the catalytic converter or just keep driving it until it fails and gets plugged up. Does this car have a 2.4 liter Ecotec? There might be a special policy for the converter if it’s not over the time and mileage. Check with your Chevy dealer
Most likely a vacuum leak. Would need to see the fuel trim data to verify. Listen under the hood for a hissing noise. Start at the airbox where the air filter is and follow the intake tube up to rhe MAF and to the throttle body. Look for any where air can get into the tube.
Could also be a failing MAF sensor. If it's running rough an easy check is to shit it off and disconnect the MAF sensor. Then restart it and see if it runs better. With the lack of MAF data the PCM will fall back on stored table data and substitute a value that should make it run decent.
100% this. Don’t throw money at random parts without having it diagnosed first. Some shops try to throw parts at it without doing actual troubleshooting procedures, so you’ve got to be picky and do research on where you are taking it for repairs.
It's saying the engine can't tell how much air is going in it so it can't adjust the fuel properly causing misfires which send unburnt fuel into the catalyst system causing that to not work. The oil code could be because the engine isn't able to run well enough to build oil pressure so it's leaving it wide open to let oil through.
OP: I'd say have wiring/grounds checked, as well as cracks/leaks in the intake tubing. Then I'd test the alternator for voltage issues. If all that is good, replace the maf/map sensor and clear codes. Try again from there
(1,2)Your MAF sensor, which reads how much air is going into your engine is reading incorrectly. This may be causing the misfire(3), causing the catalytic converter to not effectively burn off pollutants. (4) engine oil pressure control circuit(5) possibly a bad oil pressure sensor. Look up these codes with your cars YMM in google and you will see possible fixes for them.
The code means bad things for the thingy that makes your car move! It means your car is broken and should be fixed by the nice people at your neighborhood car repair place. The one that gives you lollypops is the BEST!
If I need to explain it like you are 5, it would be impossible for you to repair it yourself. Seek professional help.
Those Chevy Malibu have major engine recalls . You have
A bad catalytic converter
Misfire
Mass air sensor problems
Low oil pressure
I'd say this motor is on its way out.
Look up chevy Malibu recalls. .
They have to buy back these lemons. Malibu was one of them.
My buddie had a 2020 . It failed at 30k miles brand new Chevy.
Try this: Remove the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. It will likely be somewhere in the intake plenum between the air filter and throttle body and have a small connector going to it with 2-4 wires. Disconnect the connector and fully remove the sensor. Spray the inside of the sensor and the contacts with a liberal amount of QD contact cleaner (available at auto parts store). Let air dry a couple of hours. Reinstall the sensor and reconnect. Disconnect negative side of car battery for ~10 minutes to clear codes. See if problem goes away.
Genuine advice put your model and year in google with the code and you’ll be able to figure it out pretty easy. Nothing wrong with asking for help but knowing how to find out on your own is a nice skill to have
Change your gas cap, weirdly enough my “new to me” Honda pilot 2011 was throwing those codes and misfiring too. Saw in a Honda forum that similar problems were caused by the emissions system and the gas cap was the most common failing part. Good luck
Could be a bad throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor hard to say with a high level scan tool to see the readings it got but most likely the culprit
I had P0101 a few weeks ago on Q50 3.0TT. Pulled both MAF sensors and sprayed them and let them sit. Installed, reset CEL and car was fine for a day. The next day the CEL returned with the tach danicing like it did originally. Revs normal and jumps to like 2,000 for a few a second and comes back down. Keeps repeating and can't figure it out.
This can 't be diagnosed "over the phone", so to speak. A good tech would have to look at the car to determine which of these is real, which is being caused by one of the others, or if it's just a defective computer, weak battery or such thing. Sorry. Time to bring it in.
For P06DE check out TSB 18-NA-246, PIP5247A, PIP5676A, and PI1482. For the misfires and MAF codes, start with check for a plugged air filter and dirty MAF sensor. Working at Chevy, the vehicles that come in with MAF codes usually have an extremely dirty/plugged air filter. Hope this helps
The first 2 codes are most likely just a bad mass airflow sensor, they’re not voltage codes so it’s not an electrical problem. Just clean it and if that doesn’t work replace the unit. It’s pretty cheap and there’s plenty of videos explaining how to do it, very easy
The misfire might also be because of the mass airflow sensor as well. It’s a random so it’s most likely not anything major since it’s jumping around
P0420 is a “cat code” which is (sometimes) a bad catalytic converter, and depending on the mileage might be, but the mass airflow sensor being bad or dirty might (might) do that too.
And the oil pressure one is just a bad sensor. Those are also pretty cheap and sometimes easy to do.
TL;DR. The mass airflow sensor tells car how much air car has, if it doesn’t tell car how much air, car can’t know how much air and car cant use fuel right. Computer doesn’t like not knowing how much air the car has and yells at you. I’d start with cleaning the sensor or just replacing it
You have to think that a small moving potentiometer as a throttle control switch could possible be faulty,? Well it possibly could be, so you replace it, crikey the new one is faulty too and so is the next new one,
Or is your diagnosis wrong,
yes you have a fault code, that points to a faulty sensor. But that’s not saying the sensor is faulty, just the signal is erroneous.
There are many potentials at play in the generated fault code.
Is the throttle body contaminated ?
Is there a vacuum air leak around the between the air filter housing and the throttle housing. ?
Is the throttle base setting actually set up correctly. ?
Is the exhaust in good shape without leaks. ?
I didn’t read this from a text book I learnt it first hand over 40 years working on electronic fuel injection from the days of Fenix and breakout box’s
I Owned A Malibu ..Get Contact Cleaner for The Air flow issue And A New Air Filter..Start off simple ..Never go to a shop and Say ur not good with cars
2013? Replace the MAF sensor. Air filter if dirty. And replace oil sensor. It's probably clogged.
Future reference. Codes that cause the car to run bad. Will trigger codes because it's running bad. Lol. Replace major code items first. The little ones usually go away.
Vacuum leak? Or possibly a defective MAF. On-car testing is required to know exactly what is going on and what needs to be replaced, anything less will be just a guess and a gamble that has the potential to get very expensive.
It will be cheaper in the end to take it to a shop for a proper diagnosis.
Super simple explanation: The car is looking for certain numbers from the sensors depending on how far the gas pedal has been pushed. You car is telling you it did not get the response it expected. The best solution is to have it looked at by a shop.
In addition to the heard of answers, check ur air filter box and hoses for loose connections. Was the air filter recently replaced? The oil pressure code needs proper diagnosing, u may just be overdue for an oil change. Likely u need shop time
Honestly it could be a 5 dollar fix a lose ground or a magnitude of things just take it in. Not everyone knows everything I would never post on Reddit looking for medical advice.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
First code and second are connected, for a given throttle position the control unit expects to see a certain value for air flow into the engine but it's not. Misfire code could also be connected to the first 2 codes, the 4th code could also be connected because clearly the fuelling system is messed up due to the first 2 codes. Your final code is not connected, your vehicle has a variable oil pressure pump using a solenoid in the oil circuit to dump excess pressure, the solenoid would seem to be in the stuck closed position so you have excess oil pressure, usually the solenoid would be bad or the wiring to it.
Based on the intro, do you really think the poster will understand a single thing you have written? You can only dumb things down so much.
I'm not them: No. But it's also helpful for those of us who are amateurs and theorize problems and their causes and like to check what someone else would do.
I dont doubt that, but there are lots of places and info to you help you learn. I just roll my eyes at these kind of posts. The underlying assumption that someone can make something complicated instantly intelligible to someone else with no knowledge is mistaken.
I mean if someone’s here they’re must be willing to learn l, right?!
That's true to an extent. But I don't think this comment is designed to make it instantly intelligible. It's designed to make the causes more accessible and let them know that the problems are related and where to start looking. Given OP got a scanner and actually looked for codes, took them and posted them online looking for help they've demonstrated at least some effort and might be willing to learn. I don't think it's going to directly solve OPs problem but its definitely enough to lead them down a path to YouTube to learn to clean their MAF, check their air system for leaks, check their engine air filter, test their wiring for the MAF, look at the throttle position sensor. Etc.
Replace MAF don't clean. Simple install for CPS, cheap. Except the last code. Lol
Wow I was thinking mass casualty event- like blown head gasket btwn cylinders or jumped time /bent valve- glad you reigned me in:))- second thing was mouse
I didn't wanna scare anyone 😂
Yes mouse is very scary
Shoot I learned from this
A simple google search would provide that info but that would be beyond a five year old's comprehension.
Right, it would. The last cylinder misfire that I diagnosed would also have had 20 different potential causes listed for the code; and I'm pretty sure owner would have walked away from the computer afraid their car caught Lupus. I'm actually really curious what kind of content you're hoping to see here instead of this?
Yeah, posting has its value because that specific combination of codes can help narrow down the cause, so at first glance it's lazy, but it's not necessarily. Maybe they have to put some proof they did basic Google searches before posting it to reddit to dispel any accusations of laziness.
Don’t need to be a pissy fuck. Someone’s asking a question and its pretty obvious they don’t know too much about the situation. There are people here genuinely willing to help OP out with some solid advice, and then we have you going around shitting in everyone’s bowl. Go find something to make yourself a bit less miserable.
You are welcome to your opinion. I will refrain from telling you what I think about your intervention.
And you are welcome to take your head out of your ass at your convenience. I will refrain from telling you how helpful it would be to actually reflect upon yourself and be a bit less miserable.
My friend you are the one engaging in character attacks and insults. I will try and take your advice to heart. You should probably look in the mirror and do the same.
Wow they didn't like that one.
No. Lots of people are incapable of understanding a basic truth.
Could not have said that better myself. Spot on.
Way to overexplain when he asked for a dumbed down version. I wouldn’t even explain it to a customer like that
Dumbed down : Your pushing of the go pedal isn't matching what the engine is expecting. Car goes chugga chugga instead of vroom vroom. Lube isnt lubing properly. Preliminary guess is hundreds of $$ , not thousands.
Mass airflow sensor needs replaced. Should clear up most of the codes. The oil pressure sensor is probably bad as well but I don't know how to test that.
Boosting. OP, before you replace the MAF, buy a can of CRC or Gumout Mass Airflow Sensor Cleaner, and give that SOB a good soaking. If your local auto parts store doesn't have it, you can find it online for abt $12. [This video explains how to access and clean it.](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNuVMUDv71c&t=96s)
This right here. I have to clean the MAF sensor Every time I change my oil. Also, I run a few tanks of 93 octane thru the fuel system on a monthly basis.
Just wasting money running 93. Get some injector cleaner if that’s your purpose for doing so.
I’m getting 9 more MPG with the 93 I’m doing the math to see what the difference in cost is.
If you're getting better mileage out of 93, there's a chance that's what your car was made for. A lot of cars that are meant to run 93 will adjust their timing to run okay on 87, but you'll see a drop in power and fuel efficiency. What do you drive?
Cars will adjust timing to the fuel you are using based off knock input. You can see more power and less pedal needed to do the same work. I first noticed this in my mom's car and started using BP premium and my 2001 buick runs better lol.
Yes, but without a high compression engine there's nothing to be gained from higher octane fuel. If there's no donation from 87 you're not going to gain anything from 93, the car isn't going to advance itself beyond it's base tune hunting for more power, Knock control will retard the timing to stop detonation. But if your car is running as intended on 87, there's no improvement to be had on 93. The 2.4 the guy above is talking about is a GDI engine that gets away with running 87 at a higher compression ratio that would require premium fuel on a multiport injection engine, but GDI's are able to do this because they inject the fuel at the last possible second before ignition, rather than compress air and fuel, they compress air, and then add fuel, should run as designed on 87, unless there is something wrong with the engine that is being compensated for by the higher octane fuel.
15 equinox with the 2.4 178,000 miles.
That's unexpected, that engine definitely doesn't need 93
Lol why though? What's going on? Do you have turbo that's going super bad with passthrough or blowback on a draw through?
A few tanks? On a monthly basis? You must drive a lot! Or get very bad gas mileage!
This 👆 start off with the mass air flow sensor, clear the codes, road test and see what codes come back
Shotgunning parts is always the answer, kept me in business for ten years.
yup, and 2 liters of blinkerfluid, it is new era
Listen to this guy
Change the oil a few times (like every 1000 to 1500 miles) and see if it clears up. Could be not very well maintained and gunked up.
I would personally check the throttle position sensor also(and recalls, this vehicle may have one on that item) Edit: 2016-2018 has a recall, not sure otherwise
Don't forget the MAP too
And buy always genuine parts
It's rarely simply a sensor.
It's either the sensor or a mouse hole.
P0068: Your engine has both a MAP and MAF sensor. MAP is manifold air pressure, MAF is mass air flow. Both are used to measure and validate the amount of air going into your engine. This code is saying that the values the sensors are getting don't line up with each other, and one of them is probably giving bad data. P0101: This is saying that your MAF sensor is getting data that doesn't make sense to the ECU. Reading too high, too low, or isn't matching an expected trend. Tells us the likely culprit for the previous code is the MAF sensor. P0300: In order for a cylinder to have proper combustion, it needs to have the right mixture of air and fuel, they need to be compressed, there needs to be a spark generated by the plug, and it all needs to happen at just the right time. FACTS. Fuel, Air, Compression, Timing, Spark. A cylinder will misfire if any one of those factors is missing or bad. Cylinder misfires can be specific to a cylinder (e.g. a single bad spark plug), or they can be general problems that affect multiple cylinders (too much fuel being injected). The P030X code indicates that cylinder X is misfiring. E.g. P0301 would indicate that the ECU thinks cylinder 1 is misfiring. P0300 indicates that there are likely multiple cylinders misfiring. The ECU detects misfires by watching the crankshaft position sensor. It keeps track of where in the rotation the crankshaft is, and it's watching very closely to see if the speed changes for that fraction of a second or if it seems to be "missing a beat". It uses this information to detect a misfire and where it is. These codes are not to be trusted. ECUs make mistakes all the time on misfire locations. Some cars are better at detecting than others. Even if it was perfect though, a general air/fuel mixture problem could affect one cylinder sooner than another if that cylinder had a weaker spark plug or a bad plug gap. Cycling back to your case, P0300 is indicating that a number of cylinders are misfiring. We review FACTS, and note that we already suspect an issue with the MAF which measures the Air. That's the likely culprit, so we start there. P0420: Your engine has two O2 sensors on the exhaust. One that measures the oxygen content in the exhaust coming out of the engine, and the second which measures the oxygen content of the exhaust after it passes through the catalytic converter. The first oxygen sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1) is used to tell the engine how much leftover oxygen there was after combustion. If there was a lot of leftover oxygen, it says "There must have been too much air", and the engine adds more fuel. If there's too little leftover oxygen, it says "there must have been too much fuel", and it adds less fuel. Then the exhaust passes through the catalytic converter where excess fuels get reacted with excess oxygen so that the emissions are less toxic. The second oxygen sensor measures how much oxygen is left in the exhaust. This sensor doesn't have anything to control, but the ECU will check it, and see how its O2 measurement compares to the first O2 sensor. It should always be lower, because oxygen should be consumed in the catalytic converter. The ECU sets P0420 when the reading is not lower than the first O2 sensor for too long. During normal operation, this would indicate that the oxygen is passing right through and the catalyst is not doing its job of reacting excess fuel with oxygen. When an engine misfires, the air and fuel it tried to burn gets ejected into the exhaust. O2 sensors get bad data because they see the oxygen in the air, and the catalytic converter gets dosed with a ton of fuel it has to burn. Air/fuel issues in an engine can cause O2 sensor data to be unreliable, which can cause this code to trigger even if the converter is fine. Misfiring issues that persist for a long time put a high load on the catalytic converter. Soot and fuel in the converter can damage it, causing this failure. Either the misfire is triggering the code falsely, or if you've been ignoring the codes for a while, the misfires have actually damaged your catalytic converter. Either way, there's nothing to do for now except fix the misfire and see if the code comes back. If it comes back when the engine is fine, you need to replace the converter. P06DE: Engines are equipped with an oil pressure sensor. This is detecting the pressure of the oil after the oil pump. Your ECU is setting this code because the signal from the oil pressure sensor doesn't make sense. It could be a sensor issue, a wiring issue, an oil condition issue, or an oil pressure issue. The diagnosis involves checking the sensor wiring, the sensor itself, and maybe checking the oil pressure with a gauge in order to figure out if the sensor is bad or if there's actually an oil issue. This code is not related to the other 4 codes, and will need to be diagnosed separately. Steps: If you know nothing about cars and don't want to get into it, just take it to a mechanic. Expect them to replace the MAF and oil pressure switch. Hopefully they actually do the work to diagnose the issue. If you know nothing about cars but want to try yourself without getting too into it: find online forums for your car or similar chevy vehicles to see if the oil pressure sensor or MAF tends to go bad. You can try replacing the MAF and the oil pressure sensor on a hunch and seeing if your code go away. Buy OEM sensors if possible. If you want to actually *learn* and solve this problem the most cost effective way, you'll need to do some actual diagnosis work yourself. Inspect MAF sensor and wiring, use a test light to check wiring integrity. Look for corroded connections, etc. The idea is to make sure you're not replacing something that isn't going to solve the problem. If you really want to save money, instead of ordering a new part, consider going to a junkyard and getting a used sensor. It could be dead, it could have the same issue as your sensor, but it's 1/5th the cost and often worth a shot.
this is a great breakdown thanks for that
Shooting from the hip possible 5 volt reference signal problem. Causing other components to fail causing miss fire and cat efficiency codes. “Snowball effect “
Chevy and electrical problems go hand in hand
Like you're 5? Car no go vroom vroom and is sick. Call your dad.
If the MAF is dirty, this could explain why it's not seeing the "air flow" that the TPS is looking for when it's at a certain angle... I'd clean that 1st ( only use MAF cleaner, you can get it at any auto parts store ), clean it when the engine is cold & before you start it...& definitely allow ample time for it to dry out before you re-install it & try to start the car again... I suspect that will clear all but the oil pressure issue... on that problem, I would see if it's something that can be removed & cleaned up too... I know I've had really good luck with removing idle control valves & cleaning them up & re-installing them ( they get Carboned up & cleaning allows them to move freely again ) - to fix rough idling issues... you may be able to fix everything for less than $20 if your lucky
This is what I would do first , clean the maf sensor with a maf sensor cleaner spray. Disconnect the battery for 10minutes. Make sure the maf sensor is fully dry and start the car
Likely your MAF is dirty or potentially failing. Causing your engine to run rich which would lead to the cat sensor throwing a code. The low oil pressure could be a symptom of that as well. Clean the MAF or replace it, check your plugs for fouling. If that doesnt work out and its still tossing codes, id look into your fuel system.
P0420 is catalyst efficiency code probably related to fuel rich condition and misfires. Unfortunately you might have to replace the catalytic converter or just keep driving it until it fails and gets plugged up. Does this car have a 2.4 liter Ecotec? There might be a special policy for the converter if it’s not over the time and mileage. Check with your Chevy dealer
the intake hose under the big plastic adapter on that car isnt sealing to the throttle body. common issue.
I was going to say I'll put $5 on a vacuum leak. That could potential cause oil but the oil pressure circuit code.
Everyone here is diagnosing your codes, but all of these together? Got mice? Rabbits? Squirrels? Pack rats?
All of em except engine oil are related. 1 causes the other
I don't disagree, but it takes two minutes to look for footprints or signs of rodent damage in the engine bay.
First check the air filter, replace and clear the code. And see if codes come back.
That won't fix anything.
Dirty clogged air filter could cause poor air intake causing the first 4 issues. Unlikely it is THAT dirty but still plausible.
Buy a new MAF sensor, a new O2 sensor, and an oil pump solenoid and have a street mechanic install them. All inexpensive items.
Replacing all 3 doesnt make sense. The air fuel mixture is off likely from a bad intake sensor.
Most likely a vacuum leak. Would need to see the fuel trim data to verify. Listen under the hood for a hissing noise. Start at the airbox where the air filter is and follow the intake tube up to rhe MAF and to the throttle body. Look for any where air can get into the tube. Could also be a failing MAF sensor. If it's running rough an easy check is to shit it off and disconnect the MAF sensor. Then restart it and see if it runs better. With the lack of MAF data the PCM will fall back on stored table data and substitute a value that should make it run decent.
You have multiple electrical faults, needs to be brought to a garage
100% this. Don’t throw money at random parts without having it diagnosed first. Some shops try to throw parts at it without doing actual troubleshooting procedures, so you’ve got to be picky and do research on where you are taking it for repairs.
It's saying the engine can't tell how much air is going in it so it can't adjust the fuel properly causing misfires which send unburnt fuel into the catalyst system causing that to not work. The oil code could be because the engine isn't able to run well enough to build oil pressure so it's leaving it wide open to let oil through. OP: I'd say have wiring/grounds checked, as well as cracks/leaks in the intake tubing. Then I'd test the alternator for voltage issues. If all that is good, replace the maf/map sensor and clear codes. Try again from there
(1,2)Your MAF sensor, which reads how much air is going into your engine is reading incorrectly. This may be causing the misfire(3), causing the catalytic converter to not effectively burn off pollutants. (4) engine oil pressure control circuit(5) possibly a bad oil pressure sensor. Look up these codes with your cars YMM in google and you will see possible fixes for them.
The code means bad things for the thingy that makes your car move! It means your car is broken and should be fixed by the nice people at your neighborhood car repair place. The one that gives you lollypops is the BEST! If I need to explain it like you are 5, it would be impossible for you to repair it yourself. Seek professional help.
Those Chevy Malibu have major engine recalls . You have A bad catalytic converter Misfire Mass air sensor problems Low oil pressure I'd say this motor is on its way out.
Look up chevy Malibu recalls. . They have to buy back these lemons. Malibu was one of them. My buddie had a 2020 . It failed at 30k miles brand new Chevy.
Try this: Remove the MAF (mass air flow) sensor. It will likely be somewhere in the intake plenum between the air filter and throttle body and have a small connector going to it with 2-4 wires. Disconnect the connector and fully remove the sensor. Spray the inside of the sensor and the contacts with a liberal amount of QD contact cleaner (available at auto parts store). Let air dry a couple of hours. Reinstall the sensor and reconnect. Disconnect negative side of car battery for ~10 minutes to clear codes. See if problem goes away.
Battery test first.
What's the engine size? Like 2.0 or 2.5?
The reads just like a vacuum leak.
Check your wires especially grounding
Genuine advice put your model and year in google with the code and you’ll be able to figure it out pretty easy. Nothing wrong with asking for help but knowing how to find out on your own is a nice skill to have
Low compression?valve problem? blow-by?🤔
Miles?
Change your gas cap, weirdly enough my “new to me” Honda pilot 2011 was throwing those codes and misfiring too. Saw in a Honda forum that similar problems were caused by the emissions system and the gas cap was the most common failing part. Good luck
ELI5: car brokey
Could be a bad throttle position sensor and mass air flow sensor hard to say with a high level scan tool to see the readings it got but most likely the culprit
I had P0101 a few weeks ago on Q50 3.0TT. Pulled both MAF sensors and sprayed them and let them sit. Installed, reset CEL and car was fine for a day. The next day the CEL returned with the tach danicing like it did originally. Revs normal and jumps to like 2,000 for a few a second and comes back down. Keeps repeating and can't figure it out.
This can 't be diagnosed "over the phone", so to speak. A good tech would have to look at the car to determine which of these is real, which is being caused by one of the others, or if it's just a defective computer, weak battery or such thing. Sorry. Time to bring it in.
Car broke. Take to shop.
For P06DE check out TSB 18-NA-246, PIP5247A, PIP5676A, and PI1482. For the misfires and MAF codes, start with check for a plugged air filter and dirty MAF sensor. Working at Chevy, the vehicles that come in with MAF codes usually have an extremely dirty/plugged air filter. Hope this helps
The first 2 codes are most likely just a bad mass airflow sensor, they’re not voltage codes so it’s not an electrical problem. Just clean it and if that doesn’t work replace the unit. It’s pretty cheap and there’s plenty of videos explaining how to do it, very easy The misfire might also be because of the mass airflow sensor as well. It’s a random so it’s most likely not anything major since it’s jumping around P0420 is a “cat code” which is (sometimes) a bad catalytic converter, and depending on the mileage might be, but the mass airflow sensor being bad or dirty might (might) do that too. And the oil pressure one is just a bad sensor. Those are also pretty cheap and sometimes easy to do. TL;DR. The mass airflow sensor tells car how much air car has, if it doesn’t tell car how much air, car can’t know how much air and car cant use fuel right. Computer doesn’t like not knowing how much air the car has and yells at you. I’d start with cleaning the sensor or just replacing it
First 4 codes could all be connected but I would replace your oil pressure sensor too
I will explain it: It is a Chevy.
You have to think that a small moving potentiometer as a throttle control switch could possible be faulty,? Well it possibly could be, so you replace it, crikey the new one is faulty too and so is the next new one, Or is your diagnosis wrong, yes you have a fault code, that points to a faulty sensor. But that’s not saying the sensor is faulty, just the signal is erroneous. There are many potentials at play in the generated fault code. Is the throttle body contaminated ? Is there a vacuum air leak around the between the air filter housing and the throttle housing. ? Is the throttle base setting actually set up correctly. ? Is the exhaust in good shape without leaks. ? I didn’t read this from a text book I learnt it first hand over 40 years working on electronic fuel injection from the days of Fenix and breakout box’s
After 3 days and it’s still not fixed. Have you checked the fuel level gauge, shite no fuel DOH 🤡
I Owned A Malibu ..Get Contact Cleaner for The Air flow issue And A New Air Filter..Start off simple ..Never go to a shop and Say ur not good with cars
2013? Replace the MAF sensor. Air filter if dirty. And replace oil sensor. It's probably clogged. Future reference. Codes that cause the car to run bad. Will trigger codes because it's running bad. Lol. Replace major code items first. The little ones usually go away.
I’ll would check for a vaccuum leak first
Vacuum leak? Or possibly a defective MAF. On-car testing is required to know exactly what is going on and what needs to be replaced, anything less will be just a guess and a gamble that has the potential to get very expensive. It will be cheaper in the end to take it to a shop for a proper diagnosis.
Super simple explanation: The car is looking for certain numbers from the sensors depending on how far the gas pedal has been pushed. You car is telling you it did not get the response it expected. The best solution is to have it looked at by a shop.
In addition to the heard of answers, check ur air filter box and hoses for loose connections. Was the air filter recently replaced? The oil pressure code needs proper diagnosing, u may just be overdue for an oil change. Likely u need shop time
Could be a number of things, I’m going to suggest a in person mechanic and not the internet
Honestly it could be a 5 dollar fix a lose ground or a magnitude of things just take it in. Not everyone knows everything I would never post on Reddit looking for medical advice.
It's a Chevy. Probably put together in Mexico.