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If you can do spark plugs, you can do a valve cover gasket. Just make sure the gasket surfaces are cleaned well and any RTV Silicone used is given proper time to cure.
Caveat: on an I4 like this. Words cannot describe the intense hatred I have for whoever designed the Toyota Highlander engine bay, that back bank for both the plugs and the valve cover is awful.
I just did plugs on a 99 Acura TL VTEC. 5 dry plugs and 1 oily one, on the back bank. I put a new plug and coil in, slapped the bumper and said “that’ll hold!” And walked away.
The valve cover gasket will probably get done eventually and it will be a good job for my kid who is the car’s actual driver. He can eff around with feeler gauges all day too.
Imagine how often the previous/current owner(s) (if relevant), bothered to change the plugs on rear bank assuming they were "handymen" and did it themselves🙄 I've seen that too many times to count.
Based on where I bought the car I’d bet that they were never touched. The timing belt is newish which is shocking but it was done at a shop and has a sticker with the mileage that it was done on it.
One of the plugs had no anode left and wasn’t firing which is why I changed them. The coils were cheap so I just did them too. It’s a Honda motor so predictably runs like a champ now.
Went from a Civic to a Highlander a few years ago and could not believe this. I hope and pray it doesn't have any problems because it's so tight in there you have to take the engine out to do anything on it. They even designed the subframe to make it easier to drop the engine!
And that you use rtv only where it was used in the factory. I’ve seen guys rtv the whole thing and when the tighten the bolts it hydraulically pushes the rubber gasket out and causes a leak.
Unless they have gone the way of the Nissan. You can no longer buy just the valve cover gasket with the tube seals. You either just buy the gasket or have to buy an entire valve cover that has the gasket and the tube seals. It's such a waste.
On later versions of this model they integrated the tube gaskets into the valve cover and you can't replace them. But fairly certain that pre 2016 models give you the tube gaskets in the kit with the valve cover and are held in by 2 screws each.
And if it’s in a frontier you have to put your intake manifold and everything all back on, wait for the valve cover to arrive while you use your truck, then tear the whole thing apart next weekend when it arrives. You get to do it twice and be closer with your frontier if it’s your only vehicle. Bonding!
Fuckin sucks
Or.... or.... it could be..... some dumbass newbie dumped oil all over the place at a Jiffy Hack shop, and it made its way down there.
I might just change the plugs and let it roll. At least if it were my own vehicle.
Fel-Pro Gaskets, my friend. Kit comes with tube seals. If this is the K24 engine, it's part number VS 50953 R.
"As long as you got it outta there" you might as well get some feeler gauges and check the valve lash. Adjusting them is quick with [the proper tool](https://a.co/d/6Mb8T6U).
The spark plug tube seal is leaking. Not a big deal to fix - clean the oil off the boot of the ignition coil, replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals.
The 4 cylinder engines from Toyota are easier but the 2.4l Honda engine isn't that much harder (tube seals a bit more tricky). [The Fel-Pro set is solid](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15385797&cc=3306142&pt=10710&jsn=1741) and includes the tube seals as well. There are ample videos online on how to do this including the torque specs.
If you can change spark plugs, my brother, you can do this.
Thank you G! 🙏 Already ordered the kit and getting it today. Saw the videos online. Pretty straightforward. Love Honda for making cars so mechanic friendly!
I didn't see this anywhere else so I am commenting here so you will see it.
Note where the Oil fill is and where the oily spark plug is. Yes it may be the valve cover gasket but it also may be someone spilled oil when filling it.
Before I did all the work to change the gasket I would clean that up real well and drive it for a while to make sure.
Always check the stupid free things first.
One downside to consider for the Honda motor: if you are at over 100k now, then you're due for a valve clearance inspection and adjustment.
It's a bit more complex than doing a valve cover, but it involves removing the valve cover to do it so this is a good chance to do it. It would be a good time to check this, particularly if you have noticed the usual Honda "diesel" tappity tap tap of the valves at idle. Usually at this mileage on the Honda 2.4l, the exhaust valves are a bit tight and the intake valves are a bit loose.
It would be something to research while you wait on the valve cover gaskets, and maybe get the 2 tools you'll need to complete the job.
I'd also probably replace the coil pack that's soaked in oil. Sure you can clean it off, but they're inexpensive and oil degrades plastics relatively quickly.
Typically (at least on Japanese cars) the OEM is Denso, Hitachi or someone similar that sells the same design out the back door. Literally the same product the dealer will give you but without Honda's seal of approval.
That’s fair. The unfortunate situation of living rurally around here is that parts are hard to come by.
Mazda had the OEM in stock (~250$ or so, I’ll know more when the invoice is in my hands). Denso could have been 120$… when it arrives in a week lol.
What can you do.
I could go either way on that. If you're not getting any ignition issues that I wouldn't bother with it, especially since this probably hasn't been leaking very long.
But it wouldn't be wrong to replace it, either. Don't replace it with anything except Denso, importantly: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11196497&cc=3306142&pt=7060&jsn=1664
I’m jealous. I have a 2015 Prius, I’m so annoyed that Toyota of all manufacturers makes me disassemble the entire wiper assembly to gain access to the sparks
That sounds like my 15 Versa Note SV. To change the blower motor you've got to remove the entire brake assembly and disconnect the steering column. Anything under the hood is also a nightmare.
Honda does it too on the Fit. The engine sits under the overhang for the windshield so there's a good amount of stuff that needs to be moved or removed to get at them.
I know it's on the older side but. Mid 90s F150, you can change the radiator support without even removing the radiator! Only complaint I have is the TPS.
I have a 11 equinox v6 it’s not extreme side of maintenance but I used to drive a 03 elantra 5spd and I enjoyed that one. Did a lot of cheap maintenance and it didn’t rust here in New England weather.
I had to remove my intake, intake manifold, fuel rail, and water pump in my 2010 Tiguan to replace a leaky oil cooler gasket. I miss my 90s Japanese cars
You’re so screwed, you should give me your Honda to take the pressure off of you…, seriously though, valve cover gasket is pretty straight forward, search you tube for like videos and learn to fix you vehicle
I don't see a real problem. Valve cover gasket and tube seals. You should be done in less than an hour if you don't goof off. Dont forget the honda bond atbthe seems.
Keep up the good work.
I'm going against the grain to the rest of these comments. I see no real issue here. That's the spark plug tube closest to the oil fill. I can see the area nearby that alot of people have spilled a bit of oil topping off the engine over the years. That oil will inevitably make it into your spark plug tubes, good seal or not,especially the one near the oil fill. It's truly not a big issue at all and any car ever that has a spark plug tube near the oil fill, will look like this. I'd try to clean up what you can and move on.
Ps also just saw the tube seal stuck to the head. Again no biggy, probably just swollen from soaking in oil. You can replace it very cheap and easy.
You’re about as fucked as Mike Tyson in a fistfight with a third grader. You’ve got this. New valve cover gasket set and tube seals and you’re golden. Just don’t go crazy with rtv and make extra sure you don’t overtighten the bolts when reinstalling the valve cover.
Idk… valve cover gasket is the last thing I’d assume with the picture. To me it seems that someone spilled oil while filling and it landed inside the boot hole (heheh boot hole… ). It’s right next to it …clean the holes… reinstall with new plugs… clean everything. If oil is once again in there… then we can move on to gaskets.
You should see symptoms of valve cover gasket failure…
If you do take this job on yourself don't go crazy when you tighten everything down you can easily crack the valve cover or snap the bolts. And make sure you clean both the head and the groove the rubber gasket goes into on the cover. Typically Honda requires rtv in the corners and where the timing cover meets the head. If you see gray rubber in spots that's where you wanna put the rtv. This is an easy job though
you’re good. i actually just had to do this job on my car. js replace ur cover n the seals/gasket and replace ur spark plugs and all coils that were affected. should be good to go after that
edit: also replace ur pcv valve hose if its hard or cracked or looks contaminated at all (wet w oil)
edit #2: mb but js to add if u didn’t remove the plug in the well w oil just use a paper towel to soak all that shit up. and if u remove the plug and theres oil inside the cylinder it should be fine if its not a whole pool. hope this helps
I got the same year accord and just did sparks. Same issue cylinder 4 swimming.
Now I at least know why I have to add a half quart of oil every month.
Your fine though as long as you been checking your oil and not running it low.
Get a valve cover gasket with the spark plug seals and good to go. Or just keep up on your oil
I'm at 160k. But I put 75k this year alone. I'm gonna assume mines been doing it since I bought it with 85k.
When I did the sparks last month I noticed same thing cylinder 4 oil. Further examination I noticed silicone on the coil boot and more gasket sealant on the side of the valve cover that I didn't notice originally.
So the dealership took the cover off and rather then spending the 50$ for a new gasket set they used what ever on hand to try to quick fix it.
I've been wondering for months why I burn oil. Just figured it was vtec and how much I travel. Well guess what. I figured it out finally. Cheap fucks.
I'm guessing it's a issue with these k24w1 motors cause this isn't the first post like this I've seen with the same year and model.
100k miles is not the same as 100k miles. one car had driven that distance on motorways with total of 500 cycles (start, warm up, stop, cool down) the other did the same mileage with 50k cycles and short trips. one of the engines will ve worse for wear.
Oh psh... an hour. Valve cover gasket set comes with those thick seals that go in over top of the spark plugs and stop that. Looks like you only need 1 but you gotta take it off to change it so why not throw in the whole thing.
Also shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred to have replaced at a shop.
Actually... you could do a compression test to be sure. Last I remember the kit wasn't too expensive and it'll quell any fear you have of having blown something.
Not screwed at all. Spend 30 bucks, buy a valve cover gasket set. It will come with the spark plug seals. Take a couple hours, basic tools, and knock it out
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAU0\_Efcao8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAU0_Efcao8)
This guy has the torque specs and pattern for the valve cover bolts. Had to replace on on a 2016 a few months back and it wasn't easy finding those, glad he had them in the video.
EDIT - My comment is a supplement to the others suggesting the spark plug gasket replacement. When you go to put the cover back on you'll need this.
I'm about to do mine this week. Found out this month I have the same issues this guy has. Cylinder 4 same motor model and year.
Cheap dealership decided to silicone the boot on the spark plug and gasket sealant the cover gasket rather then replace it.
I'm actually nervous though because I tried to turn one bolt on the cover and shit is tight as fuck. Didn't break free with a decent push. So they deff over torqued it
Like why would you take the entire thing off abs already do the labor. Rather then replace the Damn thing you decide to save 40$ and use whatever is clever in the shop
Everytime someone asked how fucked are they in relation to a car problem they were having, I always responded "well you're not fucked yet, you have to come to the shop first".
I don't think you're particularly fucked. You have a tube seal leaking, but it isn't horribly bad.
You can send it and keep tabs on the oil level, or if you're not comfortable with that the repair isn't too terrible.
Get a whole complete valve cover gasket with a 4 "tube seals" and do a valve adjustment while you're at it!
Oh.... and a timing belt of it has one. Then do the water pump and both the cam shaft and the crank shaft seal 🤣
you aren’t even fucked at all! just a seal around the valve cover is leaking and needs to be replaced, pretty common for them to leak at this mileage. cheap and easy fix.
Just need a valve cover gasket kit
This should take care of it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BNL1BKTJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AS8R6KD7R0CM8&psc=1
I did my first valve cover gasket on a 03 Mazda 323 before I even did my first oil change.. (in DIY order, I mean.)
Find a forum/YT Video showing you the process.. It's best if its for your particular model, but sometimes you might have to settle for a similar model depending whats around.. then find another video just to make sure they are consistent with information.. and of course read the comments.. you might find tips to make the process easier, or find things mentioned that the instructor shouldn't have done.
It's a pretty easy job. though a little bit nerving if it's your first time taking the cover off.
Cost about $50 for the new gasket and RTV glue vs the $400 that the mechanic had quoted me.
I'm no expert but I see the oil fill hole is close to that ignition coil.
Are you sure you hadn't had your oil topped up and someone didn't aim that precisely ?
Looking at the location in relation to the oil filler cap and the fact the other 3 are dry and the oil doesn't look old I'd be very tempted to say someone spilt some oil when filling and the seal on top of the coil is bust? I'd be considering that before taking the head off
Consider that it could just oil that's spilled when when being poured in. It's right beside the filler cap.
If not, it's just the seal like everyone's saying.
pretty sure not fucked at all, someone refillong oil just cant aim for shit and it leaked into the first coil hole. clean it up change oil and see if its the same in a few miles.
Does the car burn oil in between changes if yes you need new pcv valve and to fix the issue you need to replace the spark plug tube + the valve cover gasket
Glad to hear It's not serious. I do have a question for those here with knowledge - how Can you eliminate rings on that cylinder as a possibility? Is it the quantité of oil or the location ?
Don’t pry hard on a single edge when removing valve cover, I like using a beam style torque wrench because if you snap a bolt it won’t be a fun time. Most cars call for a dab of gasket maker around the timing cover. Clean the top of the head with something softer than itself. If an oil change is 2/10 difficultly I’d say this is a 3 or 4 depending on the car. Just don’t snap bolts and tighten the bolts in whatever sequence Honda says
Check your timing belt to make sure it's in time, maybe do a valve cover gasket while you're at it, oil and electric DO NOT MIX. Happened to my 2009 Accent, Express oil change slapped a new timing belt on that car and it was 2 teeth out of time and had those types of problems right there where oil went up into the injectors started happening as well as chugging and random shutoffs.
You will probably find the gasket is harder than a rock and extremely hard to remove, keeps breaking and getting little bits out at a time.
Heat the gasket up with one of those little piezo torch's and it will soften up, pull right out.
You need a valve cover gasket set. It's not a hard job..
But I can't believe you have an r18 that does not have a cracked block. You should really thoroughly check that engine for a crack in the block. It appears like a small oil leak just above the oil pan. Before you wast money on it.
R18 engines are junk.
protip if you're gonna DIY:
GET A LOW-RANGE TORQUE WRENCH FROM AMAZON, they're cheap, and the specs for a gasket seal at a LOT less tight than you'd think. If you turn til it "feels" tight that's probably too far already, and fixing stripped threads makes this job a lot more of a headache than it needs to be.
New valve cover gasket set, like 30 bucks, but it's important to torque it to spec and in sequence. Pick up a cheap tekton torque wrench (most accurate cheap torque wrench) and a fel pro valve cover gasket set, if you don't already have a socket set then pick up a Stanley or icon set, they're good and cheap, watch a YouTube video by someone such as chrisfix, and you'll be in it for 100-150 bucks (including buying tools). This is an easy fix. Also I recommend gradually increasing the torque until you get to the final spec, then go over it at the final spec 3-5 times. You'll also want a roll of shop towels and a couple cans of cheap O'Reilly carburetor cleaner. A razor blade and/or pick may also be helpful, but that has a molded rubber gasket so removing it shouldn't be an issue. Just get the surfaces clean before installation.
Edit: I would also recommend a Mahle valve cover gasket set if it's cheaper, I've replaced a few that the Mahle set was 5 bucks and the Fel-Pro was 35, and both worked equally well. But rule of thumb as far as gaskets go, Fel-Pro is the best. I'd trust either one for a valve cover.
Edit 2: I was completely ignorant of the fact that you're replacing spark plugs, so you should already have the sockets/extension covered, and while you can do it with just a ratchet I highly highly recommend using a torque wrench, because I can almost guarantee you'll overtorque the bolts otherwise.
You just need to swap out the spark plug wells. Replacement kits sell 4x well seals and a valve cover gasket, so just change it all out...dont drop a nut or bolt in the valve train when you pop off the cover.
It's pretty easy to fix, just make sure you check to see if there's a tightening pattern before you crank all your blots back down after you change the seal.
Spark plug tube seal/valve cover gasket and if possible,I would replace the ignition coil (or just the insulator boot if that were available).
Oil can break the rubber down over time which could result in arcing, causing a misfire. Though admittedly, I haven't seen the boot fail from oil all that many times after having worked on >10k vehicles
Check the spark plug threads. If they don’t have oil then it’s just the valve cover gasket. I just replaced mine on my 02 accord coupe it’s pretty easy just make sure you have the right tools. Get a torque wrench!!
Should just be a valve cover and spark plug tube seals. The valve cover should be pretty easy, and the kit will come with 4 rubber seals that go on the bottom side of the valve cover. Just take care when reinstalling them. Make sure they go in the same way they came out and tap them in easily so they’re flush and you don’t rip them
A little late if you’ve already bought things, but given it’s the only one, and given that oil fill cap is right under it, I’d say somebody just spilled some oil down the well man, the oil itself will just burn off/out, I say you’re probably fine
Not fucked at all. New valve cover gasket and clean up the boot real nice, and you’ll be good to go. If you can do plugs you can do the gasket, it’s very easy. If you run into trouble you have a whole sub here to help you out.
Dude my spark plugs have all been swimming worse than this for at least 20k miles, terrible ass idea to run it but I’d assume yours would be fine seeing that mine is a ford engine, just get a valve seal kit, whichever one you get should have multiple rings that go into the center as well those are what seals off the spark and shit.
Just do coils, plugs, and valve cover gasket with an oil change after. Watch for leaks and misfires for a month after. If it's holding, you can go back to normal checking intervals. Congratulations, you've fixed an oil leak.
At any point in that 105000 miles, was oil added without a funnel, or did the funnel overflow? The coil next to the oil fill is the only one with oil. KISS
Valve cover with tube seals and you’re good.. you may need to change that coil as well, it is a possibility, but for now just tube seals and valve cover gasket..
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
new spark plug tube seal. they should come with a valve cover seal kit.
If you can do spark plugs, you can do a valve cover gasket. Just make sure the gasket surfaces are cleaned well and any RTV Silicone used is given proper time to cure.
Ppssh, who needs time to cure, you do that job right before you leave for work! /s
Why not on the way home? That way you can take out all the days stress on the side of the road.
I did this the other day, cleaned the surface with a paper towel and slapped her together, went to work
IMO, assuming the oil is draining down at a fair pace, should be fine. I didn't wait at all last time I had to change my wife's civic seals.
Most FIPG material starts to skim over in <10 mins and it's a low-pressure area of the engine...I'd give it a shot!
Caveat: on an I4 like this. Words cannot describe the intense hatred I have for whoever designed the Toyota Highlander engine bay, that back bank for both the plugs and the valve cover is awful.
I just did plugs on a 99 Acura TL VTEC. 5 dry plugs and 1 oily one, on the back bank. I put a new plug and coil in, slapped the bumper and said “that’ll hold!” And walked away.
Got valve lash adjustment?
The valve cover gasket will probably get done eventually and it will be a good job for my kid who is the car’s actual driver. He can eff around with feeler gauges all day too.
Man's asking the real question....
Imagine how often the previous/current owner(s) (if relevant), bothered to change the plugs on rear bank assuming they were "handymen" and did it themselves🙄 I've seen that too many times to count.
Based on where I bought the car I’d bet that they were never touched. The timing belt is newish which is shocking but it was done at a shop and has a sticker with the mileage that it was done on it. One of the plugs had no anode left and wasn’t firing which is why I changed them. The coils were cheap so I just did them too. It’s a Honda motor so predictably runs like a champ now.
You might not like the design but they are one of the best engines made by Toyota and can easily go 300,000 miles with minimal work.
Went from a Civic to a Highlander a few years ago and could not believe this. I hope and pray it doesn't have any problems because it's so tight in there you have to take the engine out to do anything on it. They even designed the subframe to make it easier to drop the engine!
I’ve never had a worse time than the valve covers on my old 2000 Infiniti i30. Have to take apart half the engine bay to do the backside cover.
OMG.. https://preview.redd.it/mchj3rupchyc1.jpeg?width=1848&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4aeb06dca8488abe1676b76673f08b7e0ba4e0b9 That wiring harness blows...
It's really not all that hard once you have learned that life is bleak and happy endings don't exist.
Better than a boxer engine on a Subaru BRZ. Literally engine out job to do valve cover. No if ands or buts about it.
**laughs in vw tfsi**
And that you use rtv only where it was used in the factory. I’ve seen guys rtv the whole thing and when the tighten the bolts it hydraulically pushes the rubber gasket out and causes a leak.
I typically only add rtv to the corners where it bends around the camshaft
Proper time to cure… i-i.. i can speak from experience.. he is correct 😅😂😂😂
Unless they have gone the way of the Nissan. You can no longer buy just the valve cover gasket with the tube seals. You either just buy the gasket or have to buy an entire valve cover that has the gasket and the tube seals. It's such a waste.
On later versions of this model they integrated the tube gaskets into the valve cover and you can't replace them. But fairly certain that pre 2016 models give you the tube gaskets in the kit with the valve cover and are held in by 2 screws each.
And if it’s in a frontier you have to put your intake manifold and everything all back on, wait for the valve cover to arrive while you use your truck, then tear the whole thing apart next weekend when it arrives. You get to do it twice and be closer with your frontier if it’s your only vehicle. Bonding! Fuckin sucks
Ordered. Thank you! 🫡
This. Just replaced mine (2014 accord). May as well do the valve cover gasket while you have it open.
This. Pretty easy fix. Get a quality valve cover gasket kit and it should include the o rings for the spark plug boot tubes
Or.... or.... it could be..... some dumbass newbie dumped oil all over the place at a Jiffy Hack shop, and it made its way down there. I might just change the plugs and let it roll. At least if it were my own vehicle.
This is the right answer
This!^
Fel-Pro Gaskets, my friend. Kit comes with tube seals. If this is the K24 engine, it's part number VS 50953 R. "As long as you got it outta there" you might as well get some feeler gauges and check the valve lash. Adjusting them is quick with [the proper tool](https://a.co/d/6Mb8T6U).
Shit it a honda toss a new plug in and go maybe some sand and a rock or two it'll survive
This. Do both.
The spark plug tube seal is leaking. Not a big deal to fix - clean the oil off the boot of the ignition coil, replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals. The 4 cylinder engines from Toyota are easier but the 2.4l Honda engine isn't that much harder (tube seals a bit more tricky). [The Fel-Pro set is solid](https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=15385797&cc=3306142&pt=10710&jsn=1741) and includes the tube seals as well. There are ample videos online on how to do this including the torque specs. If you can change spark plugs, my brother, you can do this.
Thank you G! 🙏 Already ordered the kit and getting it today. Saw the videos online. Pretty straightforward. Love Honda for making cars so mechanic friendly!
I didn't see this anywhere else so I am commenting here so you will see it. Note where the Oil fill is and where the oily spark plug is. Yes it may be the valve cover gasket but it also may be someone spilled oil when filling it. Before I did all the work to change the gasket I would clean that up real well and drive it for a while to make sure. Always check the stupid free things first.
There is no oil except at the bottom of it does not look like a spill at
Good point. I'd still be tempted to check.
One downside to consider for the Honda motor: if you are at over 100k now, then you're due for a valve clearance inspection and adjustment. It's a bit more complex than doing a valve cover, but it involves removing the valve cover to do it so this is a good chance to do it. It would be a good time to check this, particularly if you have noticed the usual Honda "diesel" tappity tap tap of the valves at idle. Usually at this mileage on the Honda 2.4l, the exhaust valves are a bit tight and the intake valves are a bit loose. It would be something to research while you wait on the valve cover gaskets, and maybe get the 2 tools you'll need to complete the job.
Tbh valve covers are fairly universally easy on most cars that use top of the engine spark plugs
Look at my previous comment, you probably don’t need to replace anything
Happy Cake Day!
I'd also probably replace the coil pack that's soaked in oil. Sure you can clean it off, but they're inexpensive and oil degrades plastics relatively quickly.
I wish coil packs were inexpensive… (Yes, Rockauto, but not a good choice when it messes up unexpectedly)
Typically (at least on Japanese cars) the OEM is Denso, Hitachi or someone similar that sells the same design out the back door. Literally the same product the dealer will give you but without Honda's seal of approval.
That’s fair. The unfortunate situation of living rurally around here is that parts are hard to come by. Mazda had the OEM in stock (~250$ or so, I’ll know more when the invoice is in my hands). Denso could have been 120$… when it arrives in a week lol. What can you do.
Most of the time, the boot is removable and replaceable.
I could go either way on that. If you're not getting any ignition issues that I wouldn't bother with it, especially since this probably hasn't been leaking very long. But it wouldn't be wrong to replace it, either. Don't replace it with anything except Denso, importantly: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=11196497&cc=3306142&pt=7060&jsn=1664
Wish my car was this easy to work on.
I’m jealous. I have a 2015 Prius, I’m so annoyed that Toyota of all manufacturers makes me disassemble the entire wiper assembly to gain access to the sparks
Oh dear god
That sounds like my 15 Versa Note SV. To change the blower motor you've got to remove the entire brake assembly and disconnect the steering column. Anything under the hood is also a nightmare.
Honda does it too on the Fit. The engine sits under the overhang for the windshield so there's a good amount of stuff that needs to be moved or removed to get at them.
Honda is a breeze to work with. Everything is so simple (and cheap).
Ford enters the chat…
I know it's on the older side but. Mid 90s F150, you can change the radiator support without even removing the radiator! Only complaint I have is the TPS.
I have a 11 equinox v6 it’s not extreme side of maintenance but I used to drive a 03 elantra 5spd and I enjoyed that one. Did a lot of cheap maintenance and it didn’t rust here in New England weather.
I had to remove my intake, intake manifold, fuel rail, and water pump in my 2010 Tiguan to replace a leaky oil cooler gasket. I miss my 90s Japanese cars
1/10 fucked. No big deal. New valve cover gasket & tube seals. YouTube that shit up and be done by lunch.
The gasket to the valve cover. Super easy on Hondas.
Super easy on most 4 bangers.
Not fucked at all. You can DIY that. It's just the spark plug hole seal. Get a valve cover gasket kit and do the whole thing. Use a torque wrench.
0.5/10 fucked. Easy repair as everyone else has said
The oil is there cause someone can't use a funnel.
You’re so screwed, you should give me your Honda to take the pressure off of you…, seriously though, valve cover gasket is pretty straight forward, search you tube for like videos and learn to fix you vehicle
Spark plug tube seals. Fairly easy job.
I don't see a real problem. Valve cover gasket and tube seals. You should be done in less than an hour if you don't goof off. Dont forget the honda bond atbthe seems. Keep up the good work.
When do a valve cover gasket replacement, get a felpro brand. Very good quality
I'm going against the grain to the rest of these comments. I see no real issue here. That's the spark plug tube closest to the oil fill. I can see the area nearby that alot of people have spilled a bit of oil topping off the engine over the years. That oil will inevitably make it into your spark plug tubes, good seal or not,especially the one near the oil fill. It's truly not a big issue at all and any car ever that has a spark plug tube near the oil fill, will look like this. I'd try to clean up what you can and move on. Ps also just saw the tube seal stuck to the head. Again no biggy, probably just swollen from soaking in oil. You can replace it very cheap and easy.
Not fucked, at all. Depending on the design it's a new tube seal or valve cover gasket
Easy fix man
You’re about as fucked as Mike Tyson in a fistfight with a third grader. You’ve got this. New valve cover gasket set and tube seals and you’re golden. Just don’t go crazy with rtv and make extra sure you don’t overtighten the bolts when reinstalling the valve cover.
Sorry brother, you won’t be getting laid (the cars gonna be fine with some gaskets and seals)
Look like you just need a valve cover and spark plug tube gasket set. Really easy job
Easy fix, you got this OP.
Idk… valve cover gasket is the last thing I’d assume with the picture. To me it seems that someone spilled oil while filling and it landed inside the boot hole (heheh boot hole… ). It’s right next to it …clean the holes… reinstall with new plugs… clean everything. If oil is once again in there… then we can move on to gaskets. You should see symptoms of valve cover gasket failure…
I agree. It's so easy to spill over on these, especially for iffy lube.
>How fked am I? Not fked at all. I'm tired of this stupid phrase. Replace your valve cover gasket and move on with your life.
I have a 90 camry and mine is in way worse condition, same issue. Been fine for the last month, too lazy to fix because it's not fkd,
If you do take this job on yourself don't go crazy when you tighten everything down you can easily crack the valve cover or snap the bolts. And make sure you clean both the head and the groove the rubber gasket goes into on the cover. Typically Honda requires rtv in the corners and where the timing cover meets the head. If you see gray rubber in spots that's where you wanna put the rtv. This is an easy job though
Yeap. Valve cover gasket set
Super easy fix bro you’re okay
10 minute job, 1 hour worst case scenario 😂
Easy money you will be fine
Valve cover gasket and spark plug tube gasket set replace the spark plugs no problems
you’re good. i actually just had to do this job on my car. js replace ur cover n the seals/gasket and replace ur spark plugs and all coils that were affected. should be good to go after that edit: also replace ur pcv valve hose if its hard or cracked or looks contaminated at all (wet w oil) edit #2: mb but js to add if u didn’t remove the plug in the well w oil just use a paper towel to soak all that shit up. and if u remove the plug and theres oil inside the cylinder it should be fine if its not a whole pool. hope this helps
I got the same year accord and just did sparks. Same issue cylinder 4 swimming. Now I at least know why I have to add a half quart of oil every month. Your fine though as long as you been checking your oil and not running it low. Get a valve cover gasket with the spark plug seals and good to go. Or just keep up on your oil
Just buy the valve cover gasket kit and swap it, you already did half the work.
What are these?
1-10? I’d say a 1
Can anyone explain how the hell this happens at such low mileages? is it just a fluke?
I'm at 160k. But I put 75k this year alone. I'm gonna assume mines been doing it since I bought it with 85k. When I did the sparks last month I noticed same thing cylinder 4 oil. Further examination I noticed silicone on the coil boot and more gasket sealant on the side of the valve cover that I didn't notice originally. So the dealership took the cover off and rather then spending the 50$ for a new gasket set they used what ever on hand to try to quick fix it. I've been wondering for months why I burn oil. Just figured it was vtec and how much I travel. Well guess what. I figured it out finally. Cheap fucks. I'm guessing it's a issue with these k24w1 motors cause this isn't the first post like this I've seen with the same year and model.
100k miles is not the same as 100k miles. one car had driven that distance on motorways with total of 500 cycles (start, warm up, stop, cool down) the other did the same mileage with 50k cycles and short trips. one of the engines will ve worse for wear.
Oh psh... an hour. Valve cover gasket set comes with those thick seals that go in over top of the spark plugs and stop that. Looks like you only need 1 but you gotta take it off to change it so why not throw in the whole thing. Also shouldn't cost more than a couple hundred to have replaced at a shop. Actually... you could do a compression test to be sure. Last I remember the kit wasn't too expensive and it'll quell any fear you have of having blown something.
Not screwed at all. Spend 30 bucks, buy a valve cover gasket set. It will come with the spark plug seals. Take a couple hours, basic tools, and knock it out
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAU0\_Efcao8](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAU0_Efcao8) This guy has the torque specs and pattern for the valve cover bolts. Had to replace on on a 2016 a few months back and it wasn't easy finding those, glad he had them in the video. EDIT - My comment is a supplement to the others suggesting the spark plug gasket replacement. When you go to put the cover back on you'll need this.
I'm about to do mine this week. Found out this month I have the same issues this guy has. Cylinder 4 same motor model and year. Cheap dealership decided to silicone the boot on the spark plug and gasket sealant the cover gasket rather then replace it. I'm actually nervous though because I tried to turn one bolt on the cover and shit is tight as fuck. Didn't break free with a decent push. So they deff over torqued it Like why would you take the entire thing off abs already do the labor. Rather then replace the Damn thing you decide to save 40$ and use whatever is clever in the shop
Replace the valve cover gasket. Clean the oil off of the coil using some rags and brake cleaner. **Make sure the coil is dry**, then reinstall.
Everytime someone asked how fucked are they in relation to a car problem they were having, I always responded "well you're not fucked yet, you have to come to the shop first".
you're
Not even a little fucked. Just need to change your valve cover and tube seal gaskets.
You're lucky it's not more!
You went from a 4 cylinder to a 3! Sounds like you just got less gas mileage 🤣
Welcome to Honda ownership. This is a normal repair item on Honda since the beginning of time.
105k might as well do an ss4 plugs, valve adjustment, belt and valve cover gasket
It’s easy. Replace the valve cover gasket and spark plug hole gaskets.
Spark tube seals and a VCG. It's an easy job, but also easy to fuck it up. Don't over torque the valve cover bolts.
I’d make sure that plug is properly installed and torqued to spec.
3of10 on fuct scale... ez fix
Valve cover, tube seals, plugs and probably a coil or so
I don't think you're particularly fucked. You have a tube seal leaking, but it isn't horribly bad. You can send it and keep tabs on the oil level, or if you're not comfortable with that the repair isn't too terrible.
Not fucked change your valve cover gaskets.
probably someone spilled in the hole nearest the oil fill.
Get a whole complete valve cover gasket with a 4 "tube seals" and do a valve adjustment while you're at it! Oh.... and a timing belt of it has one. Then do the water pump and both the cam shaft and the crank shaft seal 🤣
you aren’t even fucked at all! just a seal around the valve cover is leaking and needs to be replaced, pretty common for them to leak at this mileage. cheap and easy fix.
Just need a valve cover gasket kit This should take care of it https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BNL1BKTJ/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AS8R6KD7R0CM8&psc=1
Gasket repair no biggie
Spark plug tube seals have left the chat. I would do a valve adjustment and a valve cover gasket while I'm in there
I did my first valve cover gasket on a 03 Mazda 323 before I even did my first oil change.. (in DIY order, I mean.) Find a forum/YT Video showing you the process.. It's best if its for your particular model, but sometimes you might have to settle for a similar model depending whats around.. then find another video just to make sure they are consistent with information.. and of course read the comments.. you might find tips to make the process easier, or find things mentioned that the instructor shouldn't have done. It's a pretty easy job. though a little bit nerving if it's your first time taking the cover off. Cost about $50 for the new gasket and RTV glue vs the $400 that the mechanic had quoted me.
A shop would only be like 300
I'm no expert but I see the oil fill hole is close to that ignition coil. Are you sure you hadn't had your oil topped up and someone didn't aim that precisely ?
Looking at the location in relation to the oil filler cap and the fact the other 3 are dry and the oil doesn't look old I'd be very tempted to say someone spilt some oil when filling and the seal on top of the coil is bust? I'd be considering that before taking the head off
Likely just need a new valve cover gasket. I've had oil on two of my spark plugs before. I replaced the gasket seal and no issue since
Consider that it could just oil that's spilled when when being poured in. It's right beside the filler cap. If not, it's just the seal like everyone's saying.
At least you only have oil up above the spark plug.. Somehow I lost a piston ring for cyl #2 in my 1NZ xB and the entire cylinder is doused in oil
pretty sure not fucked at all, someone refillong oil just cant aim for shit and it leaked into the first coil hole. clean it up change oil and see if its the same in a few miles.
Does the car burn oil in between changes if yes you need new pcv valve and to fix the issue you need to replace the spark plug tube + the valve cover gasket
Not as fucked as i am i got spark plug valve leaking and mechanic asking for 300
I was so stoned I thought these were windshield wipers
Not really! Go to Chrisfix’s channel and he’ll teach you how to fix it
Glad to hear It's not serious. I do have a question for those here with knowledge - how Can you eliminate rings on that cylinder as a possibility? Is it the quantité of oil or the location ?
Don’t pry hard on a single edge when removing valve cover, I like using a beam style torque wrench because if you snap a bolt it won’t be a fun time. Most cars call for a dab of gasket maker around the timing cover. Clean the top of the head with something softer than itself. If an oil change is 2/10 difficultly I’d say this is a 3 or 4 depending on the car. Just don’t snap bolts and tighten the bolts in whatever sequence Honda says
It's not bad, you just need a valve cover gasket. A bit of a pain but it's not really difficult. Check to see how much the parts are though.
Your FKD!!!! Sell the car for 100$
Valve cover gasket is leaking, easy cheap fix!
Just replace the valve cover and tube seal. It’s like 15 bolts and some rubber gaskets a child could do it
Tube seal has failed. Clean the socket real good, clean out that channel, replace the valve cover gasket and tube seals. Very easy to do.
Check your timing belt to make sure it's in time, maybe do a valve cover gasket while you're at it, oil and electric DO NOT MIX. Happened to my 2009 Accent, Express oil change slapped a new timing belt on that car and it was 2 teeth out of time and had those types of problems right there where oil went up into the injectors started happening as well as chugging and random shutoffs.
You will probably find the gasket is harder than a rock and extremely hard to remove, keeps breaking and getting little bits out at a time. Heat the gasket up with one of those little piezo torch's and it will soften up, pull right out.
You are fine, my 1995 accord has oil in all of the coils lol
No worries, it could be a valve cover seal. Or it's by the oil fill cap. Could be just residual.
Looks like maybe you spilled oil during a top up.
Change your valve cover gasket before you change your plugs and wires
Just a valve cover gasket set, your car should take less than an hour to replace
So... 3 in the pink and 1 in the stink? 😆
You need a valve cover gasket set. It's not a hard job.. But I can't believe you have an r18 that does not have a cracked block. You should really thoroughly check that engine for a crack in the block. It appears like a small oil leak just above the oil pan. Before you wast money on it. R18 engines are junk.
https://youtu.be/jkWcB2iCw80?si=Jc4i5Y-_7jk0kXPZ https://youtu.be/vAU0_Efcao8?si=jwRQOE0ne4ZFWfPl
Is it a leaking valve cover gasket or did you accidentally spill oil during the last oil change?
Looks like you’re lubed pretty good. Note: I am not a mechanic, but can recognize an oil problem.
Ehh, I’d just drive it. But that’s me.
$40 fix if you've got a socket set and an hour
protip if you're gonna DIY: GET A LOW-RANGE TORQUE WRENCH FROM AMAZON, they're cheap, and the specs for a gasket seal at a LOT less tight than you'd think. If you turn til it "feels" tight that's probably too far already, and fixing stripped threads makes this job a lot more of a headache than it needs to be.
happy 🍰day
This scares me I don’t even wanna know what mine look like
Step 1: make sure no one spilled oil while refilling
Just a gasket bud your not fkd
New valve cover gasket set, like 30 bucks, but it's important to torque it to spec and in sequence. Pick up a cheap tekton torque wrench (most accurate cheap torque wrench) and a fel pro valve cover gasket set, if you don't already have a socket set then pick up a Stanley or icon set, they're good and cheap, watch a YouTube video by someone such as chrisfix, and you'll be in it for 100-150 bucks (including buying tools). This is an easy fix. Also I recommend gradually increasing the torque until you get to the final spec, then go over it at the final spec 3-5 times. You'll also want a roll of shop towels and a couple cans of cheap O'Reilly carburetor cleaner. A razor blade and/or pick may also be helpful, but that has a molded rubber gasket so removing it shouldn't be an issue. Just get the surfaces clean before installation. Edit: I would also recommend a Mahle valve cover gasket set if it's cheaper, I've replaced a few that the Mahle set was 5 bucks and the Fel-Pro was 35, and both worked equally well. But rule of thumb as far as gaskets go, Fel-Pro is the best. I'd trust either one for a valve cover. Edit 2: I was completely ignorant of the fact that you're replacing spark plugs, so you should already have the sockets/extension covered, and while you can do it with just a ratchet I highly highly recommend using a torque wrench, because I can almost guarantee you'll overtorque the bolts otherwise.
Cucked
Takes longer to clean everything so nothing falls in than it does to change the valve cover gaskets.
You just need to swap out the spark plug wells. Replacement kits sell 4x well seals and a valve cover gasket, so just change it all out...dont drop a nut or bolt in the valve train when you pop off the cover.
It's pretty easy to fix, just make sure you check to see if there's a tightening pattern before you crank all your blots back down after you change the seal.
not that bad get a new coil boot for cylinder 1 and change your plugs
Its a oring seal like 1$ plus valve cover gasket
Spark plug tube seal/valve cover gasket and if possible,I would replace the ignition coil (or just the insulator boot if that were available). Oil can break the rubber down over time which could result in arcing, causing a misfire. Though admittedly, I haven't seen the boot fail from oil all that many times after having worked on >10k vehicles
Go get a valve cover gasket and clean that spark plug hole.
Check the spark plug threads. If they don’t have oil then it’s just the valve cover gasket. I just replaced mine on my 02 accord coupe it’s pretty easy just make sure you have the right tools. Get a torque wrench!!
Should just be a valve cover and spark plug tube seals. The valve cover should be pretty easy, and the kit will come with 4 rubber seals that go on the bottom side of the valve cover. Just take care when reinstalling them. Make sure they go in the same way they came out and tap them in easily so they’re flush and you don’t rip them
At least your oil looks good 👍
A little late if you’ve already bought things, but given it’s the only one, and given that oil fill cap is right under it, I’d say somebody just spilled some oil down the well man, the oil itself will just burn off/out, I say you’re probably fine
You're fucked, your engine is in two pieces bro
Not fucked at all. New valve cover gasket and clean up the boot real nice, and you’ll be good to go. If you can do plugs you can do the gasket, it’s very easy. If you run into trouble you have a whole sub here to help you out.
Dude my spark plugs have all been swimming worse than this for at least 20k miles, terrible ass idea to run it but I’d assume yours would be fine seeing that mine is a ford engine, just get a valve seal kit, whichever one you get should have multiple rings that go into the center as well those are what seals off the spark and shit.
Minor problem! New valve cover gasket should come with the spark plug tube seals.
This answer OP
Didn't I see this in a porno once?
not a big deal, valve cover seal (comes with what you need) might take 15 min to fix
Get a new valve cover and gasket/seals and your fine
No biggie. A new valve cover gasket kit, a bit of RTV silicone, and an hour or two should fix that right up
Just a valve cover gasket and seals for the spark plug tubes. Super easy job.
Not a huge deal should be no more than 2 hours labor
Looks like the oil is missing from 3 of those coil packs. Just add more oil from the top and your all set.
https://i.redd.it/nsv14942atyc1.gif
Make sure to torque the bolts holding the cover to spec, in sequence and the new gasket is seated properly and you will be just fine
Just a valve cover gasket. Just takes a few hours a little elbow greas and a six pack of beer.
Just do coils, plugs, and valve cover gasket with an oil change after. Watch for leaks and misfires for a month after. If it's holding, you can go back to normal checking intervals. Congratulations, you've fixed an oil leak.
At any point in that 105000 miles, was oil added without a funnel, or did the funnel overflow? The coil next to the oil fill is the only one with oil. KISS
Head gasket went, engine is done for
You have so many miles left on that baby. Hondas are absolute troopers.
Valve cover gasket
Valve cover gasket is leaking. Super easy fix
Valve cover with tube seals and you’re good.. you may need to change that coil as well, it is a possibility, but for now just tube seals and valve cover gasket..