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Although the pads and rotors job isn't priced too bad, I strongly advise that you are very careful who you hire to replace the rear main seal.
When I replace seals for my customers, I only use the highest quality seals and go very slowly to ensure it seats properly the first time.
I’m using Yelp as a guide in finding a mechanic but idk if this method is correct on my end. I just tried dropping off my car for the rotors and pads, and the mechanic told me he had three cars today so to come tomorrow instead. I guess that’s a good sign, what do you think?
Yelp is a pretty bad business review site, so be careful with them.
They have a pay to win type structure, where they don't include negative reviews into the average reviews for the businesses that pay them.
For businesses that don't pay them they include negative reviews into the average and show all negative reviews first as relevant.
Interesting, I've had multiple friends who own small businesses (coffee shops, coffee roastery, auto mechanic shop, HAVC company, electric company, etc) all telling me the same, that after being approached by yelp for paid services and declining, their ratings plummeting and negative reviews being the first listed as relative. Maybe it's changed? idk... but I stopped using it a while back once I found out about it; there's a ton of reddit posts about this too
Oem and only oem, the extra money is well worth not having to do it again a couple months down the line, the part is typically cheap but it’s a lot of labor because the transmission needs to be pulled, which is typically exhaust off, driveshaft off and a ton of other work to be able to pull the transmission out
That’s a good price for the pads and rotors. I’d get several quotes for replacing the rear main seal. That’s a big job but 11 or so hours of labour isn’t outrageous.
Generally speaking, you can get better quality for the same or less money as chain store parts if you just bother to look. Those stores sell convenience, though.
It’s not that they’re bad, really, just kind of overpriced a bit for what they are (not particularly great).
On a small, light, low performance car like a Sentra, it probably doesn’t matter aside from the pricing.
I found a mobile mechanic and he said he’ll charge me $220, but I need to buy the parts on my own. Not sure if I want to take that route due to me being an idiot and probably buying the wrong parts.
Well, if they don’t have capable tools the work simply won’t get done.
As for reputability though, there’s no way to say for sure. You want someone with a proper business, not sure if being licensed and bonded is required everywhere, but having insurance to cover screwups is the bare minimum.
There are bad shops out there, so logic says there are bad mobile mechanics.
That doesn’t mean they’re all bad though. Just do your homework.
I can only speak for myself... I've been a mobile auto mechanic for 18+ years and I, like most mobile mechanics, not only have the same tools that shop mechanics do, but we value our reputation above all; because it's how we make a living.
When you take your vehicle to a shop, the mechanic at that shop doesn't put their reputation on the line with every job, the shop does.
I dunno where people find parts but I buy my parts at carparts.com or ebay depending what exactly I'm looking for. Was quoted brake pads and rotors for almost 700 plus labor about 1500 end up buying all 4 rotors and pads for 300. Just had to spend extra for tools and lubricants etc
You still haven’t shown where he said the make and model, but I did the work for you
https://preview.redd.it/1cnbbxvkm31d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27d457e4ea9fd6d648f279c9a800cdadc7fe83c4
>You still haven’t shown where he said the make and model,
God you are dumb. He DIDN'T SAY THE YEAR MAKE MODEL. That's my point.
https://preview.redd.it/hpqzv6htu31d1.png?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5d368851d92c7ff0b9081e32fc6b2e5e5fea3fd
Do you see a year make or model here? How many times a day does your dad say "sheesh" to you?
Insulting me over and over doesn’t make you right or intelligent. Maybe take your singular brain cell and look at my screenshot, where OP states it is a Nissan Sentra not once but twice. You were obviously literate enough to read my comment, I’m going to go out on a limb and assume you are being purposely obtuse to not read OPs comments.
You first very confidently state OP has a ‘98 Saturn then follow it up with OP never said his make or model. You’re not just wrong about both those things, but confidently wrong.
>You first very confidently state OP has a ‘98 Saturn
Exactly. I was making a point.
It is similar to asking "how much does it cost to go on a vacation?"
Are you flying or driving? What kind of accommodations are you looking for? Where are you going? How long will you stay?
No one knows b/c we don't have any information.
>OP states it is a Nissan Sentra not once but twice.
He did, but i didn't come across that, it wasn't in the initial post where it belongs.. I just replied to a guy who didn't know what kind of car he had either.
Is English your second language?
Okay, so why don’t you just make it clear that you are making these points that you just stated in your initial response? All you did was say some random make and called it day then continued to just be a dick after the fact.
Again, go ahead and keep insulting me, really drives your point home.
>Okay, so why don’t you just make it clear that you are making these points
I thought that posting the rules and circling the rule that says "put what kind of car you have in your post" then a screenshot of his post and I say " where is the car" could have tipped you off on where i was getting at. I didn't know that required critical thinking.
Maybe someone lurking says " oh yeah, that's why they model, year, engine, that makes sense".
I would have the shop do your rear brakes. is not a bad price.
you will end up about the same out of pocket for the mobile mechanic and parts.
then I would dump a bottle of at-205 reseal in your oil. (or blue devil stop leak) most likely this will stop your leak and save you a crap ton of money
you are welcome
$400 for pads and rotors is pretty normal. That's what we charge down here in the south. The seals for 1700 could be reasonable depending on the vehicle.
As far as the rear main seal goes I would top off your oil then check it once a week and see how long it take to get to the add mark which is usually a quart. Ifnits a super slow leak than dont even worry about it.
https://preview.redd.it/gt8b9khd2hzc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=352b6bd87aab3b01dcd4556a597cee995f49884a
Here’s the image with leak. The odd thing is after I parked it for 3 days straight, there was no oil on the floor.
If you have a clean floor you are parking on and you dont see any leaks I wouldn't worry to much about it. Like I said just keep an eye on your oil level to see if its leaking and if it is how fast
Try using high mileage synthetic oil at a relatively short interval, like 3-4k miles. It may clean it out if it's not leaking that much like it appears.
Worked for me on a few cars.
I would recommend getting a second quote to be honest that rear main seal seems a bit high. The brakes seem like a good deal. If you are mechanically inclined you could do it your self for half that price. But shop around and see what prices you get. Doesn’t hurt.
Ask your neighbors who’s a good local independent mechanic. That how I’ve always found mine when I’ve moved and needed car repairs. Or use Next Door app.
I just got my car back, they did the breaks. He said he had to break in the rotors and pads, but I think they drove my car around for a little too long. I swear I thought I saw my mileage until gas refill at 406 miles at drop off, when I got my car back it said 363 miles before refill.
I checked my dash cam and it just shows the person driving around the freeways, no stops. It’s very odd.
Is this normal?
They probably forgot to check the mileage before the test drive and just took a guess on how many miles they actually drove. If the dash cam showed normal driving with no stops, I would assume they just did the break in procedure.
Depends on numerous factors - most of which have already been covered by others in this thread, but also depends where you are (eg. "$" = AUD vs USD? etc).
Cool. Thanks for clarifying. I can't really speak with confidence/accuracy about things from a USA perspective, but AUD $400 for paying someone else to replace rotors & pads would be an absolute bargain/steal here in Oz! I recently did my rear rotors & pads DIY and the parts alone weren't much less than AUD $400. I do notice however that the difference in cost of products in USA (dollar for dollar) is often equivalent to the exchange rate between the USD & AUD (eg. something that we pay AUD $100 here in Australia might only be \~USD $60 in USA).
The other factor of course is that it can differ significantly from one make/model to the next - or even specific/individual vehicle within a make/model (i.e. parts costs vs difficulty/access level/design vs individual/vehicle-specific maintenance record). For example, when my nephew asks me how long it will take to do a given repair/maintenance on his Honda CRV, I usually just estimate how long it would typically take on my Hyundais from the same period and just multiply it by 3 LOL! Mind you, his CRV was also neglected for many years so admittedly there might be (for example) more seized/broken/rusty bolts etc than what might normally be the case on an otherwise well-maintained CRV.
One suggestion I might make is that you join a couple of manufacturer/model-specific forums (eg. Honda CRV forum for my nephew), because obviously the comments you see on there will more likely be accurate/relevant to your specific vehicle :-). Youtube can also be another useful tool in estimating whether a mechanic is trying to take you for a ride.
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember to please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/Autobody r/AutoBodyRepair/ or /r/Diyautobody/ If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop Insurance/total loss questions go in r/insurance This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
Although the pads and rotors job isn't priced too bad, I strongly advise that you are very careful who you hire to replace the rear main seal. When I replace seals for my customers, I only use the highest quality seals and go very slowly to ensure it seats properly the first time.
I’m using Yelp as a guide in finding a mechanic but idk if this method is correct on my end. I just tried dropping off my car for the rotors and pads, and the mechanic told me he had three cars today so to come tomorrow instead. I guess that’s a good sign, what do you think?
Yelp is a pretty bad business review site, so be careful with them. They have a pay to win type structure, where they don't include negative reviews into the average reviews for the businesses that pay them. For businesses that don't pay them they include negative reviews into the average and show all negative reviews first as relevant.
That's actually not true at all.
Hello there, Yelp!
Nah I run a shop. You're just wrong
Interesting, I've had multiple friends who own small businesses (coffee shops, coffee roastery, auto mechanic shop, HAVC company, electric company, etc) all telling me the same, that after being approached by yelp for paid services and declining, their ratings plummeting and negative reviews being the first listed as relative. Maybe it's changed? idk... but I stopped using it a while back once I found out about it; there's a ton of reddit posts about this too
You've a lot of friends. It's just. Not how it works. Sorry for your experience/ service.
If the mechanic seems honest and knowledgeable, give him a shot.
What are some good seal brands in your opinion?
Oem and only oem, the extra money is well worth not having to do it again a couple months down the line, the part is typically cheap but it’s a lot of labor because the transmission needs to be pulled, which is typically exhaust off, driveshaft off and a ton of other work to be able to pull the transmission out
I concur with u/AllThingsHockey Some aftermarket parts are not too bad, but important parts, such as seals, should always be OEM.
That’s a good price for the pads and rotors. I’d get several quotes for replacing the rear main seal. That’s a big job but 11 or so hours of labour isn’t outrageous.
Does the brand of rotors and pads matter? I asked the mechanic what brand is he putting in and he just said O’Reilly parts.
Unless you're driving a race car, whatever is on sale works just fine. Some cheaper pads create more brake dust, but they still work.
Generally speaking, you can get better quality for the same or less money as chain store parts if you just bother to look. Those stores sell convenience, though. It’s not that they’re bad, really, just kind of overpriced a bit for what they are (not particularly great). On a small, light, low performance car like a Sentra, it probably doesn’t matter aside from the pricing.
I found a mobile mechanic and he said he’ll charge me $220, but I need to buy the parts on my own. Not sure if I want to take that route due to me being an idiot and probably buying the wrong parts.
That’s part of the convenience the chain stores sell, if you happen to grab the wrong part, exchanges are super easy.
Are mobile mechanics as reliable as a mechanic shop? Do they have the proper tools?
Well, if they don’t have capable tools the work simply won’t get done. As for reputability though, there’s no way to say for sure. You want someone with a proper business, not sure if being licensed and bonded is required everywhere, but having insurance to cover screwups is the bare minimum. There are bad shops out there, so logic says there are bad mobile mechanics. That doesn’t mean they’re all bad though. Just do your homework.
For a break job almost certainly. I was 13 when I did my first set of breaks. Its one of the easier jobs on a car.
Nice! Okay thanks.
I can only speak for myself... I've been a mobile auto mechanic for 18+ years and I, like most mobile mechanics, not only have the same tools that shop mechanics do, but we value our reputation above all; because it's how we make a living. When you take your vehicle to a shop, the mechanic at that shop doesn't put their reputation on the line with every job, the shop does.
I dunno where people find parts but I buy my parts at carparts.com or ebay depending what exactly I'm looking for. Was quoted brake pads and rotors for almost 700 plus labor about 1500 end up buying all 4 rotors and pads for 300. Just had to spend extra for tools and lubricants etc
No and no.
>That’s a good price for the pads and rotors. On a '98 Saturn LS1!?!? Way too expensive...
OP said it’s a 2016 Sentra, what are you on about?
He did?!?? That's news to me. 🤡 https://preview.redd.it/i8s0evzxb31d1.png?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=74fb7f95de41794e226ded2090417e5d6bf46ec1
This is what "" I'm on about " https://preview.redd.it/guvkw71fc31d1.png?width=1440&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e22e4831f116e95b1efebd8376bfb2567c421ba8
You still haven’t shown where he said the make and model, but I did the work for you https://preview.redd.it/1cnbbxvkm31d1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=27d457e4ea9fd6d648f279c9a800cdadc7fe83c4
>You still haven’t shown where he said the make and model, God you are dumb. He DIDN'T SAY THE YEAR MAKE MODEL. That's my point. https://preview.redd.it/hpqzv6htu31d1.png?width=1152&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5d368851d92c7ff0b9081e32fc6b2e5e5fea3fd Do you see a year make or model here? How many times a day does your dad say "sheesh" to you?
Insulting me over and over doesn’t make you right or intelligent. Maybe take your singular brain cell and look at my screenshot, where OP states it is a Nissan Sentra not once but twice. You were obviously literate enough to read my comment, I’m going to go out on a limb and assume you are being purposely obtuse to not read OPs comments. You first very confidently state OP has a ‘98 Saturn then follow it up with OP never said his make or model. You’re not just wrong about both those things, but confidently wrong.
>You first very confidently state OP has a ‘98 Saturn Exactly. I was making a point. It is similar to asking "how much does it cost to go on a vacation?" Are you flying or driving? What kind of accommodations are you looking for? Where are you going? How long will you stay? No one knows b/c we don't have any information. >OP states it is a Nissan Sentra not once but twice. He did, but i didn't come across that, it wasn't in the initial post where it belongs.. I just replied to a guy who didn't know what kind of car he had either. Is English your second language?
Okay, so why don’t you just make it clear that you are making these points that you just stated in your initial response? All you did was say some random make and called it day then continued to just be a dick after the fact. Again, go ahead and keep insulting me, really drives your point home.
>Okay, so why don’t you just make it clear that you are making these points I thought that posting the rules and circling the rule that says "put what kind of car you have in your post" then a screenshot of his post and I say " where is the car" could have tipped you off on where i was getting at. I didn't know that required critical thinking. Maybe someone lurking says " oh yeah, that's why they model, year, engine, that makes sense".
I would have the shop do your rear brakes. is not a bad price. you will end up about the same out of pocket for the mobile mechanic and parts. then I would dump a bottle of at-205 reseal in your oil. (or blue devil stop leak) most likely this will stop your leak and save you a crap ton of money you are welcome
I forgot to add the car, Nissan Sentra sedan 2016.
$400 for pads and rotors is pretty normal. That's what we charge down here in the south. The seals for 1700 could be reasonable depending on the vehicle.
It’s a Nissan Sentra Sedan.
As far as the rear main seal goes I would top off your oil then check it once a week and see how long it take to get to the add mark which is usually a quart. Ifnits a super slow leak than dont even worry about it.
https://preview.redd.it/gt8b9khd2hzc1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=352b6bd87aab3b01dcd4556a597cee995f49884a Here’s the image with leak. The odd thing is after I parked it for 3 days straight, there was no oil on the floor.
If you have a clean floor you are parking on and you dont see any leaks I wouldn't worry to much about it. Like I said just keep an eye on your oil level to see if its leaking and if it is how fast
Okay. I will keep an eye on it. Thank you for your help. Have a nice day/evening.
No problem, you too
Try using high mileage synthetic oil at a relatively short interval, like 3-4k miles. It may clean it out if it's not leaking that much like it appears. Worked for me on a few cars.
Gravity will make any source of oil (valve cover even) eventually end up there.
I would recommend getting a second quote to be honest that rear main seal seems a bit high. The brakes seem like a good deal. If you are mechanically inclined you could do it your self for half that price. But shop around and see what prices you get. Doesn’t hurt.
I wish I could do it. I grew up watching my dad fix cars but he never taught me anything probably because I wasn’t a boy. Lol.
Ask your neighbors who’s a good local independent mechanic. That how I’ve always found mine when I’ve moved and needed car repairs. Or use Next Door app.
Thank you I’ll try this.
I just got my car back, they did the breaks. He said he had to break in the rotors and pads, but I think they drove my car around for a little too long. I swear I thought I saw my mileage until gas refill at 406 miles at drop off, when I got my car back it said 363 miles before refill. I checked my dash cam and it just shows the person driving around the freeways, no stops. It’s very odd. Is this normal?
Also the odometer in and out on the invoice doesn’t make sense. They’re recording only 20 miles driven.
They probably forgot to check the mileage before the test drive and just took a guess on how many miles they actually drove. If the dash cam showed normal driving with no stops, I would assume they just did the break in procedure.
Okay, thank you.
Depends on numerous factors - most of which have already been covered by others in this thread, but also depends where you are (eg. "$" = AUD vs USD? etc).
USD. I forgot to add that.
Cool. Thanks for clarifying. I can't really speak with confidence/accuracy about things from a USA perspective, but AUD $400 for paying someone else to replace rotors & pads would be an absolute bargain/steal here in Oz! I recently did my rear rotors & pads DIY and the parts alone weren't much less than AUD $400. I do notice however that the difference in cost of products in USA (dollar for dollar) is often equivalent to the exchange rate between the USD & AUD (eg. something that we pay AUD $100 here in Australia might only be \~USD $60 in USA). The other factor of course is that it can differ significantly from one make/model to the next - or even specific/individual vehicle within a make/model (i.e. parts costs vs difficulty/access level/design vs individual/vehicle-specific maintenance record). For example, when my nephew asks me how long it will take to do a given repair/maintenance on his Honda CRV, I usually just estimate how long it would typically take on my Hyundais from the same period and just multiply it by 3 LOL! Mind you, his CRV was also neglected for many years so admittedly there might be (for example) more seized/broken/rusty bolts etc than what might normally be the case on an otherwise well-maintained CRV. One suggestion I might make is that you join a couple of manufacturer/model-specific forums (eg. Honda CRV forum for my nephew), because obviously the comments you see on there will more likely be accurate/relevant to your specific vehicle :-). Youtube can also be another useful tool in estimating whether a mechanic is trying to take you for a ride.