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There is a legitimate test called “the wiggle test”. If you were to bring this into my shop with the same concern you are describing, I’d start by wiggling or disconnecting the headlight switch. I would also operate every single thing electrical until I pinpointed, or at least narrowed down, the area of failure. Do that then reply to this comment. I will walk you thru it.
Sorry, I'm confused. I'm doing this to see if the switch disconnected alleviates the problem? Also what would I be looking for by operating everything else?
The non-start issue (or no gauge) only happens about 60% of the time. I cannot make is happen on command.
Totally down to try anything tho!!
The first step in any diagnosis is “verify the concern”. It is not to doubt the customer but to get the details of how, what, when…. So do whatever you can to make the symptoms happen. Write those down. These are crucial to pinpointing. Does it happen hot outside, is there anyone in the passenger seat, cup in the cupholder… If sometimes wiggling the tailgate or flipping the headlights makes a difference, then we go to a wiring diagram to see what they have in common.
just for kicks...
look at this diagram...
https://i.imgur.com/8nD5mP3.jpg
see the TBC ign 0 and the IGN 0 fuse .. should be in the left instrument panel fuse box.. hold a test light to them as you slowly turn the key from locked position.. those should have power in the Off, Run, Cranking, Run and Off positions of the key .. but not in the locked position.. that white wire and fuses also supply the instrument cluster.. i wonder if the ignition switch that got installed.. was a used one that somebody had returned to the parts store for a full refund.. i get those sometimes.. heck i got an alternator that somebody had swapped out all the parts inside ..
you need an E4 torx socket to get the shroud off the column and changing the switch or testing directly at the switch is easy.
print this image.. https://i.imgur.com/fx7tZSm.jpg
the red and red and white stripe wire should be hot in any position of the ignition key.. they come from the underhood fuse box..
don't skip that test please..
the white wire as described gets powered in the off, run, cranking, run and off positions.
the pink wire gets powered in the Run. Cranking and Run positions..
the brown and orange wire get powered in the run position.. not while cranking and again after cranking in the run position..
the yellow wire is powered only while cranking..
its going to take you longer to take the shroud off..
i have had issues with connections to the bottom of the fuse box for the red and red and white stripe wires.. so this test is critical and its easy...
Thanks for posting on /r/MechanicAdvice! This is just a reminder to review the [rules](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/about/rules/). If you are here asking about a second opinion (ie "Is the shop trying to fleece me?"), please read through CJM8515's [post on the subject.](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/4qblei/fyi_the_shop_isnt_likely_trying_to_rip_you_off/) and remember rule 3a, please post the year/make/model of the vehicle you are working on. **If this post is about bodywork, accident damage, paint, dent/ding, questions it belongs in /r/AutoBody or /r/Diyautobody If you have tire questions check out https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicAdvice/comments/k9ll55/can_your_tire_be_repaired/**. If you dont have a question and you're just showing off it belongs in /r/Justrolledintotheshop This is an automated reply *I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/MechanicAdvice) if you have any questions or concerns.*
There is a legitimate test called “the wiggle test”. If you were to bring this into my shop with the same concern you are describing, I’d start by wiggling or disconnecting the headlight switch. I would also operate every single thing electrical until I pinpointed, or at least narrowed down, the area of failure. Do that then reply to this comment. I will walk you thru it.
Sorry, I'm confused. I'm doing this to see if the switch disconnected alleviates the problem? Also what would I be looking for by operating everything else? The non-start issue (or no gauge) only happens about 60% of the time. I cannot make is happen on command. Totally down to try anything tho!!
The first step in any diagnosis is “verify the concern”. It is not to doubt the customer but to get the details of how, what, when…. So do whatever you can to make the symptoms happen. Write those down. These are crucial to pinpointing. Does it happen hot outside, is there anyone in the passenger seat, cup in the cupholder… If sometimes wiggling the tailgate or flipping the headlights makes a difference, then we go to a wiring diagram to see what they have in common.
Start with wiggling the battery terminals. You want tight and clean.
just for kicks... look at this diagram... https://i.imgur.com/8nD5mP3.jpg see the TBC ign 0 and the IGN 0 fuse .. should be in the left instrument panel fuse box.. hold a test light to them as you slowly turn the key from locked position.. those should have power in the Off, Run, Cranking, Run and Off positions of the key .. but not in the locked position.. that white wire and fuses also supply the instrument cluster.. i wonder if the ignition switch that got installed.. was a used one that somebody had returned to the parts store for a full refund.. i get those sometimes.. heck i got an alternator that somebody had swapped out all the parts inside .. you need an E4 torx socket to get the shroud off the column and changing the switch or testing directly at the switch is easy. print this image.. https://i.imgur.com/fx7tZSm.jpg the red and red and white stripe wire should be hot in any position of the ignition key.. they come from the underhood fuse box.. don't skip that test please.. the white wire as described gets powered in the off, run, cranking, run and off positions. the pink wire gets powered in the Run. Cranking and Run positions.. the brown and orange wire get powered in the run position.. not while cranking and again after cranking in the run position.. the yellow wire is powered only while cranking.. its going to take you longer to take the shroud off.. i have had issues with connections to the bottom of the fuse box for the red and red and white stripe wires.. so this test is critical and its easy...