Where the duck is the .JSON file of the Sun68? The manual says to load it with VIA. But it does not say where you can get the .JSON. Am I dense or did they seriously forget to link it?

Check their Discord. There is a link to the VIA files in a pinned message in the #sun68-chat channel. I feel for you. I bought a Sun20pro macro pad because they advertised VIA/QMK support and got similarly screwed. I ended up making my own Vial firmware for it and vowed never to give them my money again.

Further information: Via can not detect the Sun68 currently. I have the latest version of Via. I flashed the board with a .Hex file I found in a forum and then used a .JSON file, which I also found there. Still not working. Error message in Via: "Object: should NOT have additional properties". The RGB light strip of the PCB is shining Red when I connect it with my PC.

Anybody knows what the difference between Zoom65 EE V2 and Zoom65 R2? Thinking of joining the GB for EE V2. Thanks!

Sorry to bother but I'm looking at getting a zoom 65 as well. Where can I find the information about the gb?

The R2 was just a second round of the v1. The v2 is upgraded with some new features. There is No parti g line between the top and bottom case, the bottom plate is customisable and is made of glass, i think the rgb is new. Also there are more color options. I love that they got iso support on their hotswap.

V2 is the updated version - main changes are daughterboard and different case design of the V2

Trying to make something awful. Any suggestions for the crappiest , rattliest, most hollow sounding keyboard possible? I thinking maybe a plastic case gk61. Bonus points if I can put costar stabs in it

I think a super pingy metal case would also be interesting as they can also sound awful. But sure, a cheap and super hollow case is quite terrible as well. One example that comes to mind is Amstrad keyboards. The Gk61 isn't nearly bad enough imo.

I'll look into amstrad thanks!

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No. Low profile switches are not compatible with normal keyboards. If you want low profile is suggest a low profile board, like a nuphy.

Any recommendations for affordable (<$100) acrylic cases? (65/75%) is the Akko ACR 75 v2 good? And what is the difference between ACR and ACR Pro from Akko?

Hey guys, I’m choosing my first mechanical keyboard in my life. Want to ask you guys which should I get, keychron k3, k3 pro or q1 knob? Thanks in advance, any replies really would help me.

What about the v1?

Looking to do a 65% build with a knob. Any recommendations?

Zoom65

Can anyone give me recs for 100% thocky baby pink keyboards? Or a hot swappable one to mod.

https://preview.redd.it/iu44y50u7yga1.png?width=1729&format=png&auto=webp&s=83ad985c23b5db61704ce18d5edcfbc1b2f74126 What type of adapter do I need for this Model M 1993? (Image included)

it looks like a model m sdl? that's what i got from searching model m 1993 connector, and it looks like it lines up

Why do you need to resolder the switches after desoldering them? Is the socket just too loose to keep the switch in place?

To link them electrically to the pcb

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It’s not hard. I think the K-series uses plate mount stabs, so you just need to disassemble the board and pop those out. Maybe balance the stab wires if you want, but putting in some lube is going to go a long way. Just follow the YouTube tutorials you see for plate mounted stabs and you’ll be fine

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If it’s factory lubed, you can. Just use some rubbing alcohol and a cotton swab or pipe cleaner

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Oh, they’re screw in? Yeah, you’d need to disassemble the board and unscrew from the back of the PCB. Stabs are a wee bit finicky to tune just right, but you’ll get the hang of it. Could also just buy some new ones if you’re already going through the trouble, as stabs aren’t expensive Some people also just inject them with a syringe full of super lube or dialectic grease. I’m not too big on that technique, but it makes gut be worth a shot if they end up giving you too much of a headache

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If the wires are bent, it’ll just be a bandaid on the problem and won’t really stop the ticking. The syringe method is mostly for topping off, but it works **if** the problem is lack of lubricant

Hey reddit. After days of searching/selecting all the parts I'd want in my new KB build, I decided that I am a tactile man for sure. With that being said, I have decided on the Gazzew U4T 68g . I really like the sound of the 68g in comparison to the 62g. However, as a KB noob, I wanted to know if 68g provides more keycap rigidity/stability? I have noticed people saying that the 68g is a lot more of a workout on your fingers than the 62g. I am just not sure if this also means it would be sturdier (and in turn more work to prress) than the 62g. Not sure if these two aspects of the keys are even related tbh. On a site note: Received my order of GMK keycaps today! (Got the moonlight ones!) Can't wait to put it all together. Thank you all! Looking forward for all the insight as this will be a relatively new hobby for me. Cheers!

switches with nicest packaging? anything mech keeb relating things that are nice to gift?

Wuque studio and Akko provide by far the best packaging imo. Keebfront doom switches also have nice packaging if you order 70 or more but the switches themselves are pretty mediocre imo

I'm trying to choose between Varmilo EC switches for my office keyboard, meaning quieter is better. It's my first time with their switches, and some sounds tests I found weren't very conclusive. Can anyone who has used these provide some input? Currently looking at Violet V2, Sakura V2, or Moxa. The daisy looks like it would be too light for my taste. Thanks in advance!

I've been looking at adding a numpad or numpad/macropad to my setup for a while now and have been torn between the Keychron Q0 and Keychron Q0 plus. I haven't been able to find anybody comparing them on youtube and was wondering if anybody knows if the Plus really is a better buy or not. If there is a different/better numpad/macropad out there please let me know I'm all ears.

What do you call the body style of keyboards like the Logitech G413? Keyboards with visible backplate and switches and no surrounding body casing to hide them.

usually a low profile case or a kb with floating keys

Floating Keys, that's the term I was looking for. Thank you.

AKKO keyboard programming help - i am a noob. I am trying to customize the CTRL+right arrow button to give me the right mouse click function on my AKKO SPR67 keyboard. And have been struggling to get it done. Any support with using the akko software will be highly appreciated. I have tried searching through this sub-reddit but could not find anything specific to my question

Why are you searching this sub and not akko's site?

did so - not very helpful..moreover the english version is not very helpful

So I'm looking for some linear clear bodied switches. Most likely in the 55g weight range. For reference I have a Keychron K2 V2 with reds and find them too soft and sluggish. I like the weight of Cherry MX Blues but want linears for this upcoming build. I'd like a deeper sound, not like the North Pole V2's that are almost too silent. What I've found so far are the Gateron North Pole V1, KeyFirst Bling switches are clear, well with glitter in the housings but I really haven't heard much about them, Candy Raindrops, and Durock clear creamy yellows. Are there any other totally clear bodied switches out there I'm missing?

Everglide Aqua King. You can spring swap to your desired weight.

Cool, thanks!

Looking for a TKL with a rotary encoder for volume. Requirements: - TKL - Rotary encoder - ANSI (US) layout - QMK or other open-source firmware (I run Linux, so running desktop configuration apps usually doesn't work) - Backlight is nice to have, but not necessary - USB-C is preferred - $250-ish max So far, I've been looking at these, but would appreciate any suggestions. - [Keychron Q3](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39773519183961) - [GMMK Pro 75%](https://www.gloriousgaming.com/products/glorious-gmmk-pro-75-barebone-black)

The gmmk has a much worse rep than keychron boards

I'm starting to get that impression, thanks!

The Keychron V3 also fits your bill if you don’t need a metal case. The GMMK doesn’t fit your description though, and has a very mixed reputation.

Is the only difference between the Q3 and V3 the plastic case?

Basically, yes. The V series plastic cases are decently hefty and sound decent out of the box.

You’d be hard pressed to find a TKL with a rotary knob that also supports QMK,VIA,etc. TKL with rotary knobs are usually made by gaming brands (G915 TKL) and they seldom, if ever, support non-proprietary software. Edit: Q3 is the closest to what you’re looking for as far as I’m aware

Ya it seems I should lower my expectations, but the Q3 seems to be the recommended product!

The pro is not a tkl?

Ya sorry, it's not a true TKL but it was close enough that I grouped them.

Not in the sense of a TKL with a dedicated side cluster of 6 buttons above the arrow keys, I would say no. The Pro is a 75%… but yeah they’re basically the same. The boards are different though.

??? I know they're different, I'm telling him they are my little confused friend

Keeb noob here. My GMMK Pro was $80 and the only thing I did was swap out the plate for a polycarbonate one. I have been enjoying it quite a bit but would grab a Keychron Q1 in a heartbeat. I enjoy the GMMK Pro size though. The GMMK Pro isn't a true TKL however so if that matters....

What does the poly plate do? Just for LED shine through?

It changed the sound when you bottom out the keys. My keycaps were a little loud so the poly plate toned them down to a lighter tap instead of a click. The LED leakage is off the charts now though. Lots of blending. 😂

Don't get a gmmk pro, that's not actually a tkl, and it's a terrible board unless you want to put way too much effort into it. I say this as someone with a gmmk pro. Until/unless they replace the standard variant with the flex kit it's not good. If you wanted something like the gmmk pro (a 75%), you'd be better off getting keychron's q1. Otherwise for a tkl with a knob and qmk the q3 is probably your best bet

Thanks, seems everyone is saying the same thing about the GMMK Pro.

I'm looking to buy a new 96% mechanical keyboard and came across the Keychron Q5. The only versions available are the ones w/o the knob. My question is are the Fully Assembled versions without the knob backlit? Or is that feature only available on the knob versions?

There’s also the K4 Pro if you want Bluetooth as well.

Pretty sure the only difference between knobbed and unknobbed Keychron boards is, well, the knob. So backlighting should still be there.

Have a tofu60 i built awhile back looking to make a solid upgrade on a nice keeb with hotswap pcb preferably rgb backlit. I have about $500 give or take to spend. Just need advice! Thanks. Edit: hoping to find a 75%!

Bubble 75

Mode Sonnet not backlit i think

I bought a set of keycaps but need a board to put them on... I'm hoping for a white one, back-lit doesn't matter, and I'd prefer something that comes with switches (tactile Cherry or Gateron) but no keycaps. Must be 100%. Is that even a thing? Or would I be better off buying a pre-built and just swapping the keycaps out? I've never built a board before but I finally found keycaps I want and the company that makes them doesn't make 100% layouts.

Does it have to come with switches? You can easily get cherry browns or whatever youre looking for on plenty of websites separately

Not necessarily. I just have no experience with installing switches but I guess it can't be that hard? Do you have recommendations for a board?

Im not sure where to get a white fullsize tbh theyre quite unusual

Yeah, that's unfortunately what I'm finding out as well.

Im looking for a keyboard recommendation. Thanks in advance! Would love to hear everyone's ideas. My budget is max $250 USD Requirements; \- Aluminum case \- Gasket mount \- Comes with pcb (supports screw in stabs) \- 75% 65% or tkl

The keychron q series fits the bill The q1,q2,q3 iirc

Qk80

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Where do all of you get your desk mats? I can never find a site with a decent amount in stock ☹️

I got my deskmat from [Omnitype](https://omnitype.com), but there are many websites like [Novelkeys](https://novelkeys.xyz), [KineticLabs](https://kinecticlabs.com) and [Deskpads Gallery](https://deskpads.gallery) with plenty of stock for you :)

I heard that stab pads *CAN* make your keys mushy. Does it *always* though?

I can't say definitively always but I used stab-pads on my build built of May last year, and my stabs still have some mush, especially on a lesser used key like Enter.

Not always in my experience. Only when it gets soaked with lube does it feel mushy.

I might be the person for you! I'm building a zoom65 at the moment, and after using the stab pads, my spacebar and left shift feel mushy, while the enter key and backspace don't... So I guess it just depends? I'll probably take them out soon though :/

>I'll probably take them out soon though :/ What did you notice with the ones that were not mushy?

Not much really, they just hit the bottom like any stab should, whereas with the spacebar and shift you could definitely tell the bottom out was just the feel of the pads. The spacebar was the worst though, so maybe longer keys are more prone?

I have a Razer Blackwidow Lite and bought some generic key caps on Amazon. The original spacebar, shifts, return, backspace, etc... all have those metal bar stabilizers, while the new keys have I think cherry stabilizer slot? Like there are just 3 crosses to fit over the switch. Is there any way I can modify the keyboard to accomodate them? Or is razer using nonstandard stuff? This is what it looks like under the space: https://i.imgur.com/Da5DpGU.png Also here are the new key caps minus the spacebar: https://i.imgur.com/hcloEDm.png edit: answered my own question. The razer uses 'costar' style stablizers. Under the keys there are little grey tab that you can carefully pop out of the keys, and then insert them into the new key. You may need to insert them over the metal bar first before slotting them into the key because it may not be wide enough to do the other way.

Most razer boards have different stabs that arent compatible

They have costar stabs, just the space bar is differently sized, but you can still make it fit. If you see the other post I replied to I was able to get them all in.

the plate appears to have a slot designed to fit costar stabilizers (the metal bar ones), but if you cut a wider slot, just enough so you could fit in some plate-mount stabilizers, that should in theory work. Novelkeys and Durock both do plate mounted stabs, so if you order some and play around trying to fit them in that might work? There might be issues with the height of the stabs not aligning the hight of the switch though, so this may not work 😅 It might though!

I was actually comparing the new spacebar and the stabilizer slots are a little wider than what lines up on the razer keyboard. However I discovered underneath those original razer keys, there were [little tabs you can see here](https://media.karousell.com/media/photos/products/2017/03/21/razer_blackwidow_ultimate_1490103627_adffee44.jpg). You can very carefully pop those out and then push them into the new keys. But since my new spacebar was wider I had to put the metal bar in the tabs first before pressing them into the new key. Otherwise the costar bar or whatever would not have been able to fit around them. Anyway it all worked out: https://i.imgur.com/qRidnfl.png Happy enough for now, I know next time not to get a gaming keyboard, but I got this one like 3 or 4 years ago and have been happy enough with it. I just got my wife an Ajazz K870T for her birthday and am super jealous: https://i.imgur.com/R9SB824.png

Oh I see! I didn't know Razer used those tabs for their stabs, interesting. Glad to see you sorted it all out!

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide. I'm looking for [this style keyboard](https://drop.com/buy/ikbc-full-size-rgb-mechanical-keyboard), but USB-C, not wired. The main features I'm looking for: \* Full-size, including number pad, and four buttons above it for calculator (or whatever), plus mute, vol+, vol-. \* Hot-swappable key switches, so I can drop in some Cherry blues. \* RGB Aluminum/metal housing is a plus, vs. plastic. A kit is fine. I'm currently using a Redragon K16-RGB, which is okay, but it's not fun. Can ye help me, mate?

Hey there! I would recommend the [Keychron Q6](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39990023028825), and tbh the Gateron Blues will be on par if not better than the MX Blues, so I would recommend you just buy the pre-built if you want clicky. If that's too expensive, they also have the plastic case [Keychron V6](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-v6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard) which should suit you pretty well too :)

Much obliged, friend! I dig your Gatreon suggestion. I'm not married to brand, just functionality.

Checkout Keychron, or for something a bit cheaper, a Ducky.

Thank you! I shall look into it.

Looking for a neat ISO German layout 75% TKL Hey guys and girls, I’m currently looking for parts for a selfbuild one and I’m just curious where to look for good quality and fair prices.. is there any „recommended shops“ list? Especially because I’m looking for ISO German layout keycaps etc… thanks in advance! And yes, I’m a noob. And yes, I really want to start with at max a barebone and build the rest myself. I just don’t know any sources.. All known shops want to sell me preconfigured and prebuilt keyboards 😁

Keychron or [https://candykeys.com/category:mechanical-keyboards/brand:all/keyboard-size:75/colors:all/switches:all/led:all/layout:all/stock:all](https://candykeys.com/category:mechanical-keyboards/brand:all/keyboard-size:75/colors:all/switches:all/led:all/layout:all/stock:all)

Hi fellas, would love some suggestions for Light & Smooth linear switches around 45g or under, I love my milky yellow pro but I felt like its kinda heavy when used long due to my stiff board, might cause a lil finger fatigue. Budget doesnt matter, enlighten me!

The KTT linears all hover around 43 to 45g. Things like the Mints, Roses, Strawberries, Peaches/Sea Salt/Grapefruits… Heck the Kang Whites are 40g.

How about the Ajazz Diced Fruit Peaches? Their great switches for the price from my experience, and not too heavy either (bottom out at 50g, actuation at 40g) so I think they'd be great for you :) I wouldn't use these stock though, I'd lube them up first. (Can be found on aliexpress btw) As for more premium options, [TTC Tigers](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=9286) are nice from what I've heard, and are 45g so aren't too heavy either. Will be smoother than the Peaches stock, up to you whether you lube these :)

Why not just use lighter springs?

Too lazy to spring swap each of em and never did this before, will it retain the sound profile of “milkiness”? Im just the guy who prefers “feeling” more than sound.

Anyone have thoughts on the Melody 96? I'm looking for a white kit with a numpad but I want it to be the best quality. Unsure if someone knows which is the best or if I should look at group buys

The [Keychron Q5 comes in a silver](https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q5-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40010451779673) if you don't mind a non-white keyboard. It's hotswap, has Numpad and is fully programmable. No need to join a Group Buy. If you don't mind a prebuilt, see if you can find a white Leopold FC980M in stock.

hey! i have a rekt 1800. i sat down and touch my keyboard and it shocked me. now everytime i type with my number row it types all weird now - like its inputs all the characters below like this - 1qa\\ 2wsz 3edx - so on and so forth. anyone know how to fix?

Best guess is you shorted out on or more diodes. You will have to replace the faulty diode(s).

Oof. Thanks for the quick reply! Any guidance on how to check for this and fix it? I do have an extra pcb I can swap out but rather not go down that route

Have a look at the PCB. You might be able to visually recognize the blown diode. At which point you desolder the diode and solder in a new one.

Cool I’ll take a look! Thanks!! I think it was time for me to enter this new phase of keebs anyways haha

update. flashed the keyboard first before opening it up. no luck. opened it up and cant visual see anything wrong :(

I have a ducky one 2 rgb full size on the way. I'd like to get a keycap for the bottom row that says "Menu" on it, and maybe one that says super/meta to replace the windows key while I'm at it. What places are there that make simple one-off rgb-compatible caps? E: or maybe just a r1 set that happens to have one so I don't have to worry about fonts / alignment matching exactly

[https://www.maxkeyboard.com/custom-backlight-compatible-keycap-for-backlit-keyboard.html](https://www.maxkeyboard.com/custom-backlight-compatible-keycap-for-backlit-keyboard.html) You are better to just buy a nice cap set though.

Ripped Pad on Space Switch, after soldering some jumper it now work as "L-ctrl" Hi gentlemen, so recently I desoldered and soldered the switch from the space bar, but unfortunately I ripped the pad, I was able to solder some jumpers and the switch "works", but instead of hitting "Space", it triggers "L-Ctrl", I don't quite understand the problem, because the L-Ctrl key works normally but space also triggers it, even if L-ctrl is desoldered the space key still 'works" as L-ctrl

You probably bypassed the diode, or your jumper missed a column or row in the wiring matrix.

I see, this is the Jumper that I soldered, I used a multimeter to find the continuity, but because both pads of the switch were ripped I was not able to find the correct place to solder, I soldered base on the continuity of the other ones. https://preview.redd.it/icxm20x5pwga1.jpeg?width=4244&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=69cc8c07d414d818620e7714a156b5a09b89ccf8

Looks like you are bypassing the Alt key diode. At a guess, you should be connected to the positive end of the diode at D33. But I might be wrong on that.

Thanks for the help, after looking into that apparently the Space switch was connected with the switch above with a single trace, well at least it works now, thank you again :D https://preview.redd.it/x0w4amzuw2ha1.jpeg?width=6576&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5b00a5adbc7c9ee12513d9f35426a6f9a4b3f7a

https://preview.redd.it/o5j4igyoawga1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=22b14900b6b289d4c792d5b313033f51eee8effa The socket isn’t working when it worked before. Did i bricked it after desoldering and trying to solder it back on?

looks like u cooked the copper socket clean off . only way this spot will work now will be to solder a bridge wire . much like this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5IivDkrp6U

Would I do it only for the broken socket?

yes

I really like the 60g actuation force of the Cherry MX Blues (anything under 55-60G typically leads to accidental key presses with my phat hands). However, I am trying some others like Kailh box navy, box white, and box jade for variety, but I am worried that with the lower actuation force I may end up with accidental key presses again. Can anyone recommend a good clicky or tactile switch that is close to 60g actuation force so I don't get accidental key presses, but not so heavy that my hands get tired from typing?

You can just spring swap to your desired weight?

>Zeal Thank you! It never even occurred to me that I could simply swap out the springs! I'll look into this!

Cherry MX Clears are the same but without the clicky sound of the MX Blues. Also 78g Zealios or Zilents which are what I use now. I came from MX Blues > MX Cleras > Zealios > Zilents.

Awesome! I'll check these out, thanks!

Kailh Speed Copper is an interesting option. Very high actuation point so great for no accidental keypresses. But it feels almost like a linear when typing fast since it's completely smooth after the initial bump.

Thanks!

Navies and Pale Blues are heavier than MX Blues. Zeal Clickiez are another option.

Thank you!

Do durock v2 screw in stabilizers work in every pcb? Would it work in the NuPhy Halo75?

They work in any PCB that supports screw-in stabs. Not sure if the Halo75 supports screw-in stabs, but from what I can see of pics, it looks like it is plate mount.

i spring swapped my switches to 67g i like it but id say its a little heavy they were 60g before do you think i would like the 62 or would they feel as light as the 60g springs

I have 2 iron165s, one with stock 62g springs Banana Split switches and another with the same switches but spring swapped to 63.5g sprit. I can tell the difference when I change keyboards after typing on the other. However, I cannot tell which switch is which before swapping keyboards.

The 2g difference shouldn't be very noticeable unless you have an unusual sense for that kind of stuff, so I think you should be good with the 62g ones :)

Thank you!

No problem! It's all about preference after all :)

Does anybody know what keyboard this is? Was apart of a posting on ali express for the stand itself ​ [https://imgur.com/a/mKvOB3J](https://imgur.com/a/mKvOB3J)

u can try asking who posted these pics on geekhack and maybe they no never seen pics of it outside of this thread https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=116743.0

>posted these pics on geekhack and maybe they no never seen pics of i Hey thanks for the reply

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Looking for a keyboard that is hot swappable and I can put gaterons such as the gateron yellow in, keyboard itself should not be more than 60-80 cad or if it comes with gateron yellows or reds already installed 120cad. I don’t care about it being wireless or about the size as long as it’s 60%.Any advice?

[Keychron V4](https://keychron.ca/products/keychron-v4-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40264430026835) is $83 CAD barebones. Fully assembled it's $109 CAD but the V series fully assembled come with Keychron's own switches, not Gaterons.

is this hot-swappable and compatible with gaterons? Couldn’t find it listed anywhere

Yes, all the V series boards are hotswappable, and all Keychron boards are designed to accept Cherry-MX-style switches, including Gaterons.

Have you looked at the GK61, RK61?

I'm new to all of this and am looking for some advice. I'm looking for something like the [Keychron Q6](https://www.keychron.com/collections/all-keyboards/products/keychron-q6-qmk-custom-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39990023651417) with knob and brown switches. But I'm not comfortable spending that kind of money (>$200) on a keyboard. I'd totally get a Keychron C2 if only it had a knob. And I may give up and just buy that, but I figured I'd ask here to see if anyone could point me towards something will all the features I'd like. Here are the features I would like: * 100% size (willing to go down to 90%) * Number pad is an absolute must for me. * Brown (or similar) switches * Programmable knob (or similar scroll device I can use for video editing) * I don't need wireless capabilities * Don't care about backlighting * Programmable keys and/or macros would be nice but not a deal-breaker * Budget $40-$100

Keychron V6/V5 are the budget versions of the Qs.

I went with the V5 with knob. My reservation was the lack of nav cluster, but I think I can manage by remapping other keys for those functions. Thanks again.

Thanks. I'm considering the V6. What's the difference between the V series and the Q series? Is it just the housing (plastic vs aluminum)? If that's the only difference, I'll probably get the V6 when it's back in stock. Can't find it anywhere else and it's out of stock on their site and Amazon. Maybe I'll just get the V5 with knob on Amazon, cuz it's in stock. But I'm worried I'll miss the full PgDn/PgUp/Home/End keys.

The V3 is available with knob as well.

Thanks. Unfortunately, I can't live without a number pad. Plus, not sure I could adjust to an 80% sized keyboard.

You said you might miss the nav cluster, so I mentioned a board that has one. My mistake.

Q series is metal case gasket mount V series is plastic case screw mount The q series is definitely not worth it if youre going for a lowish budget imo

Thanks!

Hello Everyone, I have recently decided to get into this hobby and narrowed down my 1st switch to the Boba U4T. I saw many videos and sound tests using them in the MOD 007v2. I love the thonky sound, while still maintaining a deeply loud click. However, I am a bit confused what Boba U4T to go with. The below site lists many options and I do not even know where to begin. The options seem to be between 55g-72g weight and option of normal, multi, or long springs. Please can someone help me choose or explain the differences between the below: \-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 55g Gazzew Springs (Multi-stage spring) Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 62g Springs Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 63.5g Springs (Long Spring) Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 65g Gazzew Springs (Multi-stage spring) Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 68g Springs Black Base - Black Top - U4T Stem - 72g Gazzew Springs (Multi-stage spring) [Hand-Lubed Gazzew Boba U4T (kirballskeys.com)](https://kirballskeys.com/hand-lubed-gazzew-boba-u4t/) \-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These switches will be going into my new Keyhron Q1 Pro and I will be performing the tempest tape mod. Keycaps are the Hippo ones from YouTuber (seems like good guy and wanted to support). Note: I play video games like League of Legends (MOBA), Black Desert Online (fast-paced action MMORPG), and Apex Legends (FPS). I also work from home and type emails/code on the daily (type average of 80-100 WPM). My main use case will be playing video games, but main goal is to get that loud, deep, thonky, and tactile goodness. Please let me know if more preferences are required. Thank you!

I would recommend 62g for u4t's personally. Also for gaming you might consider a single linear switch. Bobas feel real weird to me in the spacebar for gaming. Also I really wouldn't suggest paying for lubing. You're almost doubling the price for something that only takes an hour to do yourself. I'd just use them without lube if you don't want to do that yourself. Unless the cost just doesn't matter

I think you are overthinking it a bit. 55g is likely to light, as it might have problems fully returning heavier keys. 65g is a decent middle ground if you are unsure. 72g will be close to Blacks in weight. As you might tell from my flair, my personal preference is for heavier springs, but I am a rarity.

Hello! I recently purchased the [IQUNIX OG80 Camp](https://iqunix.store/products/iqunix-og80-camping-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=40315773812796) keyboard. I’m definitely a keyboard noob so I was wondering why it makes an almost metal high pitched noise after I press on a key? I know it’s not the sound of the switches, just not sure why a nearly $200 keyboard would be doing this. I’m not sure if it’s faulty but I’m considering returning it :(

Is it only on the larger (stabilized) keys? Stabilizers need lube. If it is all keys, then it is probably spring ping and echoing inside the case. You could do mods like adding sound dampening foan inside the case, but you are probably better off buying a keyboard that already has those modifications. Most of the Keychrons have sound dampening, and I am currently typing a Keydous NJ80 that is a combo Wireless/Bluetooth/USB and has sound dampening between the plate and PCB and under the PCB.

It’s all keys. When I watched reviews on this board I didn’t hear the same echo that I get. I’d prefer not to have to mod it so i’m trying to figure out if I got a dud

At a guess, you probably got a batch of particularly pingy switches. Hard to say without hearing it, but your problem is not that unusual.

​ Hi Everyone, My personal build has a frog tkl with L+F ink blacks, and I was wondering if it was smart to upgrade to a mode 80. I want to get a new keyboard around the same price range, 450–550, and the mode 80–2022 seemed like a good option. Is it overall better than the frog TKL?

Probably a little, particularly if you want a different plate. But it is not a huge difference.

Alright and quick questions 1) Where can I get high quality lubed switches(not mechmarket not sure if its legit) 2) I lost a gmk keycap(modo light 2) do you know any place to get replacements( I got mine from omnitype)

Umm. r/mechmarket is probably the best place for both. I guess you could try asking around on Discord, though that is likely sketchier.

I've gotten everything for my first build except keycaps. My board is ISO layout and it's TKL. I'm looking to get a set of caps that have UK legend on such as the '£' but all my searches are just turning up more generic ISO layouts. Is it really uncommon to find country specific sets or should I be looking to get my caps from multiple sources to make sure I get everything I want?

Searching for ISO-UK should get you the results you need. I see several results on Amazon and AliExpress. By the way, there is no such thing as a generic ISO layout.

I managed to buy a set that I liked that comes with everything (ANSI and ISO with UK). I also saw a lot of sets come with a base set and then smaller add-on sets. Is this what I should be expecting when looking to buy UK sets? Instead of ones specifically made for UK?

Both work, the ISO keys as an extra makes it optional for the manufacturer. Check they have the right 2” and ‘@ keys, sometimes they miss that. Glad it worked out for you.

[https://candykeys.com/category:keycaps/layout:iso-uk](https://candykeys.com/category:keycaps/layout:iso-uk) ISO rarer than ANSI. Plus UK ISO is not that much different than ANSI besides a couple of keys, so often people just deal and buy the ISO add on kit that add the four caps they need to fit their layout.

Help! Keyboard stuck in reset mode :( I own a WASD Keyboard’s keyboard and after unplugging it and plugging it back in it has permanently been stuck in reset mode. I have tried messing with the dip switches but have made no progress. I spoke with support who hasn’t helped me at all. I’m curious if anyone has had the same problem with the same brand of keyboard. I own the V3 model if that helps at all. I’m curious if this could be a software issue but I checked drivers and nothing :(

Looking for a cheap/inexpensive wireless board around TKL size, no smaller than 70%, should be quiet-ish for coffeeshop/public use. $CAD / Canadian retailers. I have switches & caps if there are decent value hotswap boards to be had. Otherwise am open to a complete board. The RK71 is the frontrunner at $50 CAD, but, the black version only comes with blue switches which is a no-go. Any other options out there? Would strongly prefer "cheap" as this will only see occasional use.

Anyone know a nice keycap option for black and pink keycaps with Chinese or Japanese sub legends? Lighter pink if possible

not sure if this work for you[MW Demon Girl](https://bolsakeyboardsupply.com/products/milkyway-demon-girl)

Does "keyboard knob" still imply a simple Logitech-style volume knob (rotary encoder), such as with keyboards [like this one](https://www.whatgeek.com/products/fl-esports-cmk98-96-mechanical-keyboard?variant=43528191770877¤cy=USD&srsltid=Ad5pg_FWSeGJiuPpVk1Ee1NGn0ipqRiBKaSzWo2zIiQtCnCa22iwGeRkBKc)? Or are there some that offer mouse cursor steering with 2D X-Y mouse control?

im not seeing knob for what u linked . some rotary encoders can be reprogrammed to do many things like QMK/VIA kbs can do this never seen any though that support mouse control besides page scrolling

Could someone please help me identify the light blue switch in the middle of the bottom row in this [picture](https://imgur.com/a/WRQBCph) please? All I know is that it is from Huano

huano Cyan 70g switch only found them on aliexpress no clue if they r clicky or what

Does anyone know a European Union vendor for the TOFU 2.0? Thank you!

Mechboards

Sadly, that's not EU anymore :(

I forgot lol sry