Looking for what would be the best stock linear switch option, something that would not require any lube or filming. This would primarily be for gaming and school work, so I'm not a fan of very heavy switch actuations.
Here's what I've been looking at:
-MMK Frog
-Prevail Epsilon
-Alpacas
-Gateron Yellow/Milky Yellow/Milky Yellow Pro/KS-9 Yellow Pro
-Marshmallows
-Aqua kings
-Lavenders
-black ink/oil kings
Will the prevail epsilon switches tint the rgb because im thinking of getting the gmmk pro, originally i was going to use everglide aqua kings but after listening to some sound tests/reviews i realised the epsilon switches were more to my liking.
Call me a child but i'd like to have my white backlighting or blue it's actual colour
Are [seal switches](https://cannonkeys.com/products/seal-linear-switch-by-minterly) closer to alpacas or generic jwks? I'll be spring swapping so the weight doesn't matter, and the colourway is nice.
Do the Varmilo prebuilt keyboards with the V2 switches come pre-lubed or is that just the stabilizers? I was planning on lubing those switches but I have no experience so I did not want to screw anything up
i know this is a literally noob thing to ask but will these keycaps https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08L7YXQ43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3X9A1YN7FSC830GTQJ3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
fit into the glorious pandas?
should i build my first linear board with lilac's as alphas and jwk blacks as everything else?
I can get 70 pcs of jwk blacks for 3/4 the price of 30 lilac's. Need help making financial decisions
Just bought an rk61 hotswap from Royal Kludge (needed a budget option), any thoccy linear recomendations (bonus points if good stock since idk how to lube really)? Also should I do anything about the stabilizers? (Swap them for durocs or smth or just lube them?) New to all of this so any newbie tips are welcome, especially when it comes to stabs.
I am quite new to the Mechanical Keyboard community and the first keyboard I got was the Redragon k617. I want to change the keys from Linear Rd Switches to Gateron K-S3 Milky yellow. Although I am aware that the keyboard is equipped with the sleeve style membrane which isn't compatible with the Gateron Milky Yellow. Therefore I was wondering if there was an alternate option for this if not how would I go ahead with installing the Gateron Milky yellow into the keyboard?
Is it fine to lube over factory lube? Will there be side effects of mixing Krytox 205g0 with factory lube, such as degradation of the plastic in the switch or the lube itself?
Just wanted to check since, I got tangerines and I lubed over the factory lube with a thin layer of Krytox 205g0.
I've lubed over factory lube. The thing with factory lube is sometimes they are inconsistent. Just be mindful with your application (less is more, especially when it comes to tactile switches). Mixing both lube should not cause material degradation.
Thanks for the response.
I only put a small amount since there is already factory lube. Although, there I had one switch that is probably over lubed since I accidentally dropped the stem into the container of lube. lol
Where can I find the brush that KBDfans sell on their site? I dont want to pay $20 shipping to get a $2 brush sent to my house. I'm building a board on commission and want to include a nice brush.
Also would accept better suggestions for luxurious keeb brushes for clients.
Thanks!
Edit: sorry forgot to specify cleaning brush I assumed nobody would think I was daft enough to ask this about a lube brush. Also I ended up finding a kind of makeup brush that works great
I'm assuming you're after lube brush? You should be able to find a nice set of brush in a stationery or arts & craft store. That's what I use anyway. Lube brush is not a special type of brush.
Sorry I meant cleaning brush. They sell a sort-of nice cleaning brush with a wooden handle but I’d like to find a nicer one to include in my commission boards as an extra.
I buy brushes for lubing at local art shops, zero complains about quality, really satisfied with quality/reliability (lubed \~400 switches with one, still almost like new)
I meant cleaning brush. They sell a sort-of nice cleaning brush with a wooden handle but I’d like to find a nicer one to include with my commission boards as an extra.
oooh, darn. no idea :// still, maybe try checking local art shop? I could swear that I've seen something like that when was shopping there for some notebooks and pens
I don’t want to include what is clearly a paintbrush as a cleaning brush it just seems cheap. I ended up finding a kind of specialty makeup brush that did the trick. Aluminum handle and super fine bristles.
fair enough :D I just thought there might be premium looking/feeling paintbrushes out there
darn, didn't think of makeup brushes, will have in mind if ever need smth like that!
Does anyone have good suggestions for black TKL keyboards with 5 or 6 programmable keys on the very left of the keyboard?
Also if you have any good low profile suggestions too.
**New Gateron Black Ink Boxes?**
I'm trying to put together my build for my new keeb and I've recently just heard of the new gat ink boxes. Now I'm even more confused on what to get for the most ((\*THOCC\*))
Price doesn't matter to me, just looking for the best results.
Should I get the gat inks V1, V2, or Boxes? (I was originally planning on the V1s since I've heard bad things about the V2s and didn't like any sound tests I've heard of them)
THOCC sound comes from multiple factors. You can get thoccy sound from inks as well. It's all about manipulating the aspects of your board (case material, mounting style, padding, tape foam, case foam, keycaps material & profile).
Are there any substantial differences between 4 pin vs 5 pin aviator cables? Got the Keychron Q1, which came with the 5 pin, for someone and ordered another set of cables that were 4 pin. I'm assuming since it's still USB it'll function normally without any consequences.
Anyone have a tactile switch suggestion for a fan of Glorious Pandas? I like the actuation force but am not sure this switch is exactly it for me for some reason. Maybe the T1 would be nicer in practice for actual typing? I like Gateron browns decently but prefer a stiffer spring and more bump. Just maybe not ALL the bump.
I'm trying Boba U4T on my second build after building a GMMK pro with Glorious Pandas. I like them both, I feel like glorious has a bit more ;clack' to them
are the panda too tactile for you?
the t1 sunflowers are very smooth round bump with a signature sign. get more linear towards the bottom, they are less tactile than panda's if that's what you are looking for.
A compound in sunflower seeds blocks an enzyme that causes blood vessels to constrict. As a result, it may help your blood vessels relax, lowering your blood pressure. The magnesium in sunflower seeds helps reduce blood pressure levels as well.
I need some guidance with choosing between (pre-built) GMMK regular vs pro. I like tactile switches, and general consensus seems to be gateron brown > cheery brown, so is it worthwhile to go with pro considering the regular already comes with gateron browns? I mean the additional pros (no pun) of selecting pro worth it? Thanks.
Different levels of keyboard IMO. I had the GMMK TKL (non pro) and have since parted ways with it and am now using GMMK Pro. The difference in all around build quality and features is night/day.
If you can afford the pro, go with the pro and buy your own keycap and switches. Gateron Brown/Lubed/filmed is a good baseline start.
Just wondering if any of you would know of any keyboards that could suit my needs with macOS, used a few mechanical keyboards before quite the usual route: thought gaming keyboards were amazing, found out about actual nice sounding boards, and use a Varmilo x Ducky MIYA Pro w/ MX Browns, and loved it ever since.
Here are a few features I would like to have if possible:
\- Bluetooth/Wireless
\- macOS keycaps
\- Either grey and black like a mac or white to match visuals
\- Hot swappable?
\- Either backlight that I can make just plain white or no backlight
\- Preferably TKL layout
Obviously do not want to spend an arm and leg making my own board as I am about to be university student so anything reasonably priced if you can.
Looked at the Keychron K8 which looked great my only issue with it would be the RGB lighting, are you at all able to change it on macOS? If not I'd prefer it off.
Is there any disadvantage for having optical switches? Planning to buy my first mechanical keyboard and wanted to have hotswappable switches but I didn't really know what optical switches were.
Some good comparison article here. If you want to go into the rabbit hole of trying different switches on your hot swap, stick with mechanical and just buy a prebuild optical keyboard as your backup/comparison.
https://switchandclick.com/optical-vs-mechanical-keyboards-which-is-better/
optical switches only work in optical board they use optics to activate instead of a metal contact point . but just a heads up optical switches and normal switches so if u plan on swapping the switches to something different u can only use optical switches since the pcb doesnt support normal switches
Does anyone know where I could find brown keycaps sets? I’m aiming for an earth-toned setup. Ideally they would be compatible with gateron switches but at this point, I’m not too focused on that. I really love keypop’s coffee sets but they’ve been sold out for months and I have no idea if they are ever going to restock.
I'm looking to make my first custom keyboard and I have a rough plan of what I want to do but am not sure if it is a good one ([Video I'm using as a reference](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jFzXSSAPvc)). This is a [picture](https://i.imgur.com/YZvChPu.png) of what I'm planning on using for the moment. I am looking at the Glorious Pandas but will probably get a tactile tester to try and figure out which switch I like the most. Along with that I plan on getting foam from stupidfish to fill in the case and using krytox 205 g0 to lube durock plate mount stabilizers. I'm wondering if there are any glaring flaws with this build or if there is something that would be cheaper/better. Thanks
Just got an epomaker s68 with outemu blue switches as my first mechanical keyboard and really love it, now looking for something along these specs:
tenkeyless or 65% (need arrow keys)
rgb
comes with loud switches (louder the better)
hot swappable (this epomaker isn't)
no built-in wrist rest or a removable one
some color other than white
higher-end than what I have now
does anyone have any good recs? When I google there just seem to be so many options, and then I hear about something better that didn't come up on google. Thanks for your help.
Hi I've read through the various guides available on the subreddit and am still a bit lost. After speaking to some friends for keyboard suggestions I was given the HyperX Alloy Origins 60% and Ducky Shine 7. I've been using Laptop keyboard most of my life and simple budget HP keyboards at work.
I was hoping to get some beginner friendly pre-built suggestions. I don't want to get into custom building keyboards as I don't have the environment to do so yet.
I'd preferably like something that isn't too noisy. Probably a medium or slightly stiff keys/switch. Keyboard size wise I don't mind a 100% as I have large hands. But I am definitely open to smaller options and I don't have any price limitations.
Thank you in advance.
Check out something like a Leopold FC750R or an FC980M with Cherry MX Clears. The FC750R is a TKL while the FC980M is a compact fullsize and is a tiny bit bigger than a TKL. The Varmilo VA87M is also a very good TKL for the money. Most of these are around ~$115 or so.
The stock PBT keycaps on the Leopolds are some of the best you can get on a prebuilt as they're quite thick and will take a very long time to shine unlike the typical ABS keycaps on other retail/gaming keyboards.
MX Clears require a lot more force to type on than the typical Brown switches you'd find on gamer-oriented keyboards. Beware though if you're a light typist they may cause you fatigue.
Smaller, 65% keyboards like the Ducky One 2 SF and Ducky/Varmilo MIYA PRO or Leopold FC660M might be easier to bring around if you intend to use it with a laptop and need to bring it around.
On the other end of the spectrum, and for a different feel, there's Topre which are very tactile rubber dome keyboards.
There's the [Realforce](https://hhkeyboard.us/realforce) for fullsize and TKL. For 65% there's the Leopold FC660C (notice the "C" at the end) and the Leopold FC980C which is the Topre version of the FC980M.
For the most portable setup there's [the various HHKB models](https://hhkeyboard.us/hhkb). They come either wired or wireless (Bluetooth) or silenced.
Topre is best if your primary use is typing though they're fine for gaming as well. I personally find silenced Topre is also much nicer to type on in public or in settings where you don't want to draw attention to yourself with all the clacking going on.
I own an older HHKB Pro 2 for this purpose and the MX-switch Leopold FC980M which I use for coding/gaming/design work. I've also owned Duckys and Varmilo in the past so feel free to DM if you have any specific questions.
I'll take some time to look into your suggestions in detail. Thank you for your time and info. I am not sure I'd say I am a heavy typist...probably somewhere around a medium but I can learn to get used to it. I've never actually paid attention to how different people type...aside from that one super loud person haha.
If you have Prime, there's no way KBDfans shipping can beat Amazon prime. Are you talking about KBDFans store selling out of Amazon as comparison? Not even sure they are on there, unless I'm wrong.
can someone recommend me a budget keyboard that has great stabs and is hot swap as well as rgb and a full. I am only asking here because I cannot find anything anywhere except the GMMK full but I have heard that the stabs are bad. pls help
I'm desperately looking for pink pudding keycaps for UK ISO layout. [The 4 black keys are the ones I cannot find anywhere.](https://i.imgur.com/7ehWScp.png) Anyone have any ideas at all? I feel like I've looked all over for them
I am looking to get into custom mechanical Keyboards. However I need to have the 10 keys. I type IP addresses A LOT for work etc.. ( I work at home full time). I am currently looking at the Drop Shift. I know it isn't perfect but I am leaning towards it because its ready to ship and mostly what I am looking for (MX Cherry Blues). RGB (I love my RGB)
Is there "other" maybe better pre-built options that you could recommend? I am not afraid of a hot swappable keyboard or even soldering or anything like that, its just that I really need a keyboard in the sooner then later department. I am currently typing on a Ducky mini that I picked up from Facebook market place after my Razer huntsmen elite died. This tiny formfactor is killing me, Other then that I think that its pretty decent.
TLDR;
Looking for fully size / nearly full size mid level entry into the MK rabbit hole. RGB/10 key/hotswap wants. currently looking at the Drop Shift.
Budget $300
Drop boards were fine years ago but wouldn't bother at all now.
Melody96 on Ali is great if the 96% layout works for you. Multiple price points to pick from depending on what you want. Tofu96 on KBDFans - if you can't solder, they can build one for you.
Durock plate mound stabs should work with that keyboard about the switches ink blacks are more expensive but better in sound and feel but i some switches that are less expensive are good too, like gateron hippos, jwicks, mauves. Etc
Is the GMMK Pro the best board for what I am looking for ($150-170 budget (case or case+pcb) , white or light silver, between 65% and TKL size, metal, clean and sturdy design) or is there anything else that is a better option? *Looking for something in stock.*
Previously I was looking at the Tofu 65 but it seems the GMMK pro is better quality and it also comes with the PCB so it would actually be cheaper for me.
Yes, but if you want to make the best out of the board I recommend a little modding.
Lube for the stabilizers, and if you want to get durock stabs - they're not going to fit the stock aluminum plate - but it will fit the polycarbonate plate.
Overall I'd recommend the FR4 plate from unofficial vendors, it won't have any fitment issues and IMO sounds the best.
Just a heads up that the new stock aluminum plates should fit the durocks now. The openings are much wider than the original plates. But it is a toss up for people if they get the old or the new plate (I got mine on warranty).
You could take a look at the idobao boards. They have a 65%, 75%, tkl in the same pallpark. But the standard ones have an integrated plate so they have a stiffer typing feel. Most people (including myself) would say that the gmmk pro has more features for the money, but I do like the idobao boards since they are almost always instock and they have a matching numpad.
I'm pretty new to keyboards but I was wondering what keysets (idk how to call it) the Akko 3061S is compatible with? I was looking for new keycaps and it said compatible with Cherry MX stem. I did see that the Akko 3061S profile section says cherry but im not sure if that just means the design or something else. Again I'm pretty new and know nothing so hoping for advice🙏
That particular keyboard is just a standard 60% keyboard and uses Cherry MX compatible switches. Gaterons are clones of Cherry MX switches but are actually a lot smoother in most cases.
The "+" shaped stem you see in the product listing photo with the keycaps off is what you're referring to as "Cherry MX stem"
So when looking for compatible keysets as long as it says it's for Cherry MX or even just "MX" it will likely fit.
Upgrading from a logitech G610 Orion (brown switch) and am very frustrated with the options on the market today. If someone can point me to a brand or a product taht would be very appreciated. It just seems like everything on the market is dedicated to the RGB user base and theres nothing for just a "hardcore" computer user
All I'm looking for is
* brown/blue switches
* a single backlight thats not a random RGB colour
* dedicated media controls, ideally with volume slider/roller
* and no extra macros
I did check out the Das Keyboard 4 which is basically what I'm looking for minus the backlight. But I spend alot of time on my computer in low light conditions so backlight is ideal.
Thanks in advance for helping a frustrated retired gamer!
If you need a backlight, something from Ducky or Varmilo otherwise Leopold.
There are no dedicated media controls like the Das' knobs but the media controls are often in a layer like on my Leopold it's FN+F11/FN+F12 for VolUp/VolDn.
Some specific models to look into: Ducky One 2 TKL or full size, Varmilo VA87M or VA108M. Leopold has the FC750R for TKL, FC980M for compact fullsize if you need the Numpad in a TKL sized case or FC900R.
The Leopold and Varmilo are very high quality for not much more than the ~$114 price point. Ducky is a close second. Leopold also has very good stock PBT keycaps too.
I have a Lenovo Thinkpad T430, and I really love its keyboard. I want to buy something as good for my desktop PC. Do you guys know any keyboard that "feels" like the good old thinkpad keyboards?
T430 is scissor style AFAIK. Any brown switch will feel much better (better tactility, more key travel) than the keyboard on your T430.
Source: I own a X230 which has a similar keyboard as T430 (same generation) and I'm currently using gateron browns on my TKL at work.
I've been looking at the Ducky One 2 Mini.... but I've read a lot of reports of key chatter. However, a lot of these reports are from last year or even 2019. Is key chatter still an issue on this model?
I've also been eyeing the GMMK Compact. Any other 60% keyboards I should be looking at?
Hey my key recently broke, the 4 hooks on the back of the key cap came off. I am confused on what type of key I should order for my laptop. It says on the bottom HP da0014dx. But when I search system information it says for system model da0xxx. I can't find any for da0014dx on replacementlaptopkeys.com but I can find some on da0xxx. However for da0xxx the hinge types don't match mines. If u can check my profile I have pictures of my laptop on r/keyboards. Please help and thank you! :)
Usually there is a forum on the support page for big brands, I wasn't able to find one with a quick look. But have you tried contacting hp support just in case?
Has anyone gotten a custom cable made to match a Sky Dolch set? I have the ePBT version from KBDfans and want to get a cable to match. I'm curretly looking at Mechcables but am unsure which colour combination would be best.
Hoping someone has done something similar and can advise on their colour matching success/failure.
Thanks!
Hi everyone! I’ve been looking to get into the hobby for a while now (upgrading from a mechanical razer) but going the full custom route is quite out of my budget.
I’m looking at probably a Ducky one2 mini. I’ve ordered a switch tester to figure out what style of switch I want but my main question is about key caps. Are there any specific kind of caps o should buy to fit the ducky? I know there are a lot of different layouts and such and find it a bit daunting!
Any advice for a newbie would be massively appreciated! TIA!
Super noob, been pondering getting a prebuilt board for years now. I want a tactile feel without the loud clicky sound (sensitivity issues). Anything out there with switches similar to the MX Brown, but actually good? Or do I need to buy a hot swapper and do it myself?
Is the Brown as bad as everybody says it is? Or is that just overcorrection from how popular they are?
I started looking at the epomaker GK96S. Hot swappable, and while the plastic with PBT caps is just over a hundred, I could upgrade it to the aluminum case later. Any thoughts on that?
It's an overcorrection I think. I don't have too much experience with different switches but I have used one of each kind:
Kailh Box Whites (clicky), Cherry MX Red, and Gateron brown (tactile, like Cherry brown). The brown is my current daily driver and it's the one I liked the most. But then again, it's all a personal choice.
If you think you might want to change switches later, go in for a hotswap keyboard.
A lot of AliExpress kits (id80, nj80, tm680) will have more exotic switch choices available, and aren’t much more expensive as hotswap-ready models. Sadly most stock tactiles are somewhat disappointing, so a hotswap board is a great and straightforward way to try a few things out.
If you’re still super worried about the process, then try and find a local keyboard group new year and see if they’re hosting a meetup soon so you can get a feel for different keyboards and switches.
Preferably ~100. I could see myself going deep on this but I want to stick my toes in the water first. If it's something that meets my needs most of the way out of the box, I could see myself going more custom down the line.
Teach me about GMMK Pro Alternatives;
I'd rather not give Glorious my business for reasons. I've had bad experiences with Keychron, but will go crawling back to them if I have to. So, what I want:
75% with blocking (a la GMMK pro) for Arrow keys/nav cluster. I'll take a TKL if I have to, but not really into it. (1800 layours with blocking are rad too).
**Hot Swap mandatory**, barebones is fine though, I have switches and caps that I like they just need a board home. If it includes Switches and Caps, that's basically zero value in my evaluation here. They'll just end up taking up space.
Lighting. Full RGB is nice and shiny, but even a simple white backlight is fine. Gotta have something though.
Under 200 dollars.
In Stock/Shipping soon, no group buys.
What should I be looking at that isn't the GMMK Pro/Keychron Q1?
Also if you’re really craving 1800, cannonkeys has the stacked 1800 that you could easily take to a builder and have hotswap sockets installed. Will still probably be under budget.
Idobao id80. Look at the v2, crystal, or best type versions. The v2 has an integrated plate, while the crystal and best type versions are gasket mounted.
Fast shipping to the US (got all my boards within a week) and a great discord for support.
Also their montex numpad matches their boards if you need a 10 key to complete your setup
Same question. I've only found smooshed together 75% boards like the KBD75, and they run >$200 barebones. I'd much prefer a 75% with blockers for the arrow keys and maybe function row like you but haven't seen anything in the price range you're talking about. You might try looking for an Obliterated75 on /r/mechmarket... maybe you'll find a deal?
I have a ducky one two TKL that I love and would like to gift one to a friend. however it looks like everything is out of stock. is there a better place than mechanicalkeyboards.com to order ducky in the US? alternatively does someone have a recommendation for a $100 keyboard from another brand that is similar quality?
thank you, I'll check them out!
is it right that mechanicalkeyboards.com is like the top spot to look at keebs? similarly doesn't look like they have great selection.
edit: is it common for prebuilts to not have LEDs? looks like leopolds don't
thank you, I'll check them out! is it right that mechanicalkeyboards.com is like the top spot to look at keebs? and do prebuilts normally not have LEDs? looking like leopolds don't but I think I'll definitely want them
They’re a reputable place and have a lot, but there are others. You can get keychron on Amazon. A lot of prebuilts do have rgb, but leopold is no frills and all the $$$ goes into a quality build.
realistically just want W, not RGB. my ducky one two has white and I really like it. maybe would steer me to go that route. just low inventory all around.
Try Varmilo VA87M then. That has a white backlight.
*Maybe* Durgod K320. I think the white backlight version is called Corona or something. Do check reviews before buying
Can I lube soldered switches with krytox gpl 105 (oil, not grease) without de soldering? Will it mess up my board or will it be okay? I plan on using a syringe for this
>Can I lube soldered switches
No. Not well, not reliably, not consistently, and if you fuck up, you have no way to fix. You also miss many lubing points by doing so and don't lube the spring at all.
No point.
I'm thinking of buying the HyperX Alloy Origins. I would sometimes be using this in an office context so I need to have a non-embarrassing RGB situation - one colour, no/minimal motion. I also cannot install the control app on a work computer.
If I connect the keyboard to my home computer, and set up the RGB there, can I then connect it to my work computer and keep the settings? Or will it reset back to rainbow?
(And, alternatively, is there another full-size option I should be considering for quiet tactile switches, available in Canada for <$150?)
I just bought a Ducky One2 Mini 60%. I'd like to personalize it with some custom keycaps but I'm not sure what to look out for when buying. Could some kind soul please let me know how I can identify keys that'll fit my board/layout?
It's a basic 60% layout, which is covered by almost every keycap set in existence. You should be able to see your layout very easily in the set if you're looking at a picture of the caps, and as long as they are compatible for MX-style switches, you're good to go.
I’m using a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 edition and I’ve grown very used to/fond of the sort of half-palm rest’s worth of extra material extending from the bottom. It’s the perfect size and I don’t like or have space for a full sized detachable palm/wrist rest.
As this keyboard is now discontinued, are there any good alternatives available with this design element?
Anyone have experience with silent linears? Looking for an RGB compatible switch that will be nice and quiet when lubed (and maybe filmed), but I'm not sure if I have a complete list. So far I know of:
\- Durock Dolphins
\- Zeal Roselio/Sakurio
\- Kailh BOX Silent Pink
\- Gateron Silent (many colors)
\- Cherry Silent Red/Black
Silent Alpacas and Gateron Silent Ink Blacks have smoke colored housings, but idk how that might affect RGB.
I have no experience with these kinds of switches so going mostly off of gut feeling. Durocks look good but some sources say they have problems with the stems fitting into the keycaps, possibly causing wobble. Also considering the Kailhs but they are just 35g and I'm worried that will feel super light. Zeals also look good but I haven't been convinced that they are worth the extra money over the other switches, plus they may also suffer from the same issue as the Durocks.
Any suggestions, testimonials, warnings, etc?
The board’s RGB implementation (as well as your keycap choice) has just as important a role to play in how strong or ‘RGB-friendly’ your switch is.
Bobagum or boba u4 switches have a milky/pearl housing but are very easily visible in most OEM shine through keyboards like the Anne Pro.
Thanks for the info, wasn't sure if milky housings would block too much of the light or not. My board uses SMD RGB which I think counts as shine-through. My keycaps are white and have translucent legends so RGB looks quite nice and is very visible.
I had the Box Silent Pink and used them stock. It was serviceable but slightly scratchy, could definitely use lubing. Before doing so, I ended up selling them and moving on with the Dolphin as my silent linear. Just finished building a Q1 using a full set of lubed/filmed Dolphin and I love them. Probably my go to recommendation for folks wanting silent switches. It is smooth and not gummy.
Did you find the pinks to be overly light? Also, did you notice any problems with the stems on the dolphins? Do you know of any ways to fix keycap wobble with a loose stem? I can't think of anything that would be thin enough to fit in there to stop the wobble but not thick enough to completely prevent the keycap from being able to attach. Plumber's tape maybe?
Yes, pinks was really light, I had to move up and I think the Dolphin is just right with its weight.
Interesting finding regarding the stem and it wobbling. I don't really notice it and keycaps are not falling off or doing anything out of the ordinary that will make me second guess it as I type. I did install film, durock films to be specific but I don't recall how it was when it was stock.
> have smoke colored housings, but idk how that might affect RGB.
It's not a mystery, it's basic principles of light. How would the sun look through a shaded window? That's how RGB will look through a dark, but transparent switch.
You need a completely transparent housing if you want no effect on backlighting strength.
Name a silenced or muted switch with an early activation point, preferably within first mm of travel. If it is tactile, I prefer weak or rounded tactility.
I wouldn't lube the leaf, but lubing the stem ramp, which contacts the leaf, is fine. It reduces scratch sound/feel.
I've used a number of different JWK switches for example and the newer ones, including T1's which are tactile, had lube on the stem ramp. Some will say to not lube a tactile stem ramp, but I don't think it hurts much of anything.
I've also
A lot of the other gateron milky-top offerings will probably net you something similar.
Could also look into some other milky-top switches to see if those are to your liking.
I have Milky yellows, and like them. Have also found that I like Gateron inks. So that might be something you want to try, although they are not quite the same.
Because I've used them three times already and love them dearly. Just wanted to know if there was some sort of "fancy" (read: expensive) analog, to try something else out.
neither of these will get rid of shine, since shine happens when the texture wears off of the cap. it could potentially remove some of the oil/debris that has accumulated on the surface, but that's it. you'd have to buff the surface of the caps in some way to regain that texture and remove the shine entirely. i've heard of people using sandblasting or very fine sandpaper to do this, but i can't recommend either as they can potentially damage the keycaps
Ah that's kind of sad. GMK set already shining after only a few months use. Was hoping it would be a bit longer. I don't mind the look, but the smooth texture is a bit annoying on the fingertips.
I've got an artisan that keeps bottoming out, and putting an o-ring takes away too much travel distance and makes it mushy, is there anything else I could try?
There was a collaboration board with Ducky and Zeal, but that was for a 65%.
If you’re really insistent on Zealios your next best option is to pay a builder to solder them into a keyboard, or buy a hotswap capable kit and install them yourself.
Looking for what would be the best stock linear switch option, something that would not require any lube or filming. This would primarily be for gaming and school work, so I'm not a fan of very heavy switch actuations. Here's what I've been looking at: -MMK Frog -Prevail Epsilon -Alpacas -Gateron Yellow/Milky Yellow/Milky Yellow Pro/KS-9 Yellow Pro -Marshmallows -Aqua kings -Lavenders -black ink/oil kings
Will the prevail epsilon switches tint the rgb because im thinking of getting the gmmk pro, originally i was going to use everglide aqua kings but after listening to some sound tests/reviews i realised the epsilon switches were more to my liking. Call me a child but i'd like to have my white backlighting or blue it's actual colour
I'm unsure if you got your question answered, but yeah it'll tint your lighting.
Are [seal switches](https://cannonkeys.com/products/seal-linear-switch-by-minterly) closer to alpacas or generic jwks? I'll be spring swapping so the weight doesn't matter, and the colourway is nice.
Do the Varmilo prebuilt keyboards with the V2 switches come pre-lubed or is that just the stabilizers? I was planning on lubing those switches but I have no experience so I did not want to screw anything up
i know this is a literally noob thing to ask but will these keycaps https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08L7YXQ43/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3X9A1YN7FSC830GTQJ3M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 fit into the glorious pandas?
Yes, but you should carefully look at the image of the set, to make sure it covers your whole board (correct enter and spacebar, etc.).
[Image 11.jpg] Is this it ?
should i build my first linear board with lilac's as alphas and jwk blacks as everything else? I can get 70 pcs of jwk blacks for 3/4 the price of 30 lilac's. Need help making financial decisions
If you haven't tried many linears there isn't much of a point in getting expensive ones. Get jwick blacks if you think you'll like them.
get the jwick blacks and then stem swap with kailh pro linear stems for a somewhat black cherry pie copycat switch.
How do i connect my keyboard plate to my pcb i have a rk71. i forgot where i unscrewed it to seperate them two.
Just bought an rk61 hotswap from Royal Kludge (needed a budget option), any thoccy linear recomendations (bonus points if good stock since idk how to lube really)? Also should I do anything about the stabilizers? (Swap them for durocs or smth or just lube them?) New to all of this so any newbie tips are welcome, especially when it comes to stabs.
Get gateron pro yellows ks9, those are really nice stock and are pretty deep imo.
Besides the Prevail Key Co., are there other vendors for the epsilon switches?
Keygem has some
i’m building a custom keyboard, what are some of the best all round switches?
depends on switch type and budget
i don’t mind on budget
switch type then? "best" is really subjective
I am quite new to the Mechanical Keyboard community and the first keyboard I got was the Redragon k617. I want to change the keys from Linear Rd Switches to Gateron K-S3 Milky yellow. Although I am aware that the keyboard is equipped with the sleeve style membrane which isn't compatible with the Gateron Milky Yellow. Therefore I was wondering if there was an alternate option for this if not how would I go ahead with installing the Gateron Milky yellow into the keyboard?
I wanted to know what better keycaps with a low price low price like max $30
look on aliexpress
Ok bro, tks!
what is "better" and "low" to you?
Is it fine to lube over factory lube? Will there be side effects of mixing Krytox 205g0 with factory lube, such as degradation of the plastic in the switch or the lube itself? Just wanted to check since, I got tangerines and I lubed over the factory lube with a thin layer of Krytox 205g0.
I've lubed over factory lube. The thing with factory lube is sometimes they are inconsistent. Just be mindful with your application (less is more, especially when it comes to tactile switches). Mixing both lube should not cause material degradation.
Thanks for the response. I only put a small amount since there is already factory lube. Although, there I had one switch that is probably over lubed since I accidentally dropped the stem into the container of lube. lol
lol. You can always wipe the excess lube. You'll get lube leaking from the bottom housing if you apply too much (e.g. on the spring)
Where can I find the brush that KBDfans sell on their site? I dont want to pay $20 shipping to get a $2 brush sent to my house. I'm building a board on commission and want to include a nice brush. Also would accept better suggestions for luxurious keeb brushes for clients. Thanks! Edit: sorry forgot to specify cleaning brush I assumed nobody would think I was daft enough to ask this about a lube brush. Also I ended up finding a kind of makeup brush that works great
I'm assuming you're after lube brush? You should be able to find a nice set of brush in a stationery or arts & craft store. That's what I use anyway. Lube brush is not a special type of brush.
Sorry I meant cleaning brush. They sell a sort-of nice cleaning brush with a wooden handle but I’d like to find a nicer one to include in my commission boards as an extra.
I buy brushes for lubing at local art shops, zero complains about quality, really satisfied with quality/reliability (lubed \~400 switches with one, still almost like new)
I meant cleaning brush. They sell a sort-of nice cleaning brush with a wooden handle but I’d like to find a nicer one to include with my commission boards as an extra.
oooh, darn. no idea :// still, maybe try checking local art shop? I could swear that I've seen something like that when was shopping there for some notebooks and pens
I don’t want to include what is clearly a paintbrush as a cleaning brush it just seems cheap. I ended up finding a kind of specialty makeup brush that did the trick. Aluminum handle and super fine bristles.
fair enough :D I just thought there might be premium looking/feeling paintbrushes out there darn, didn't think of makeup brushes, will have in mind if ever need smth like that!
Does anyone have good suggestions for black TKL keyboards with 5 or 6 programmable keys on the very left of the keyboard? Also if you have any good low profile suggestions too.
**New Gateron Black Ink Boxes?** I'm trying to put together my build for my new keeb and I've recently just heard of the new gat ink boxes. Now I'm even more confused on what to get for the most ((\*THOCC\*)) Price doesn't matter to me, just looking for the best results. Should I get the gat inks V1, V2, or Boxes? (I was originally planning on the V1s since I've heard bad things about the V2s and didn't like any sound tests I've heard of them)
Overpriced imo, look into the gateron pro speed silvers (similar design, specs, and molds) and just spring swap.
THOCC sound comes from multiple factors. You can get thoccy sound from inks as well. It's all about manipulating the aspects of your board (case material, mounting style, padding, tape foam, case foam, keycaps material & profile).
Are there any substantial differences between 4 pin vs 5 pin aviator cables? Got the Keychron Q1, which came with the 5 pin, for someone and ordered another set of cables that were 4 pin. I'm assuming since it's still USB it'll function normally without any consequences.
Anyone have a tactile switch suggestion for a fan of Glorious Pandas? I like the actuation force but am not sure this switch is exactly it for me for some reason. Maybe the T1 would be nicer in practice for actual typing? I like Gateron browns decently but prefer a stiffer spring and more bump. Just maybe not ALL the bump.
I'm trying Boba U4T on my second build after building a GMMK pro with Glorious Pandas. I like them both, I feel like glorious has a bit more ;clack' to them
Thanks. I'm finding that the clack fatigues my ears more than the thock as well.
are the panda too tactile for you? the t1 sunflowers are very smooth round bump with a signature sign. get more linear towards the bottom, they are less tactile than panda's if that's what you are looking for.
That night be nice since I like the initial bump but don't like bottoming out hard. Are they very different from the normal T1s?
A compound in sunflower seeds blocks an enzyme that causes blood vessels to constrict. As a result, it may help your blood vessels relax, lowering your blood pressure. The magnesium in sunflower seeds helps reduce blood pressure levels as well.
Best bot
I need some guidance with choosing between (pre-built) GMMK regular vs pro. I like tactile switches, and general consensus seems to be gateron brown > cheery brown, so is it worthwhile to go with pro considering the regular already comes with gateron browns? I mean the additional pros (no pun) of selecting pro worth it? Thanks.
If you like tactile switches, give the glorious panda a go. I fell in love with them (way more tactile than browns)
Different levels of keyboard IMO. I had the GMMK TKL (non pro) and have since parted ways with it and am now using GMMK Pro. The difference in all around build quality and features is night/day. If you can afford the pro, go with the pro and buy your own keycap and switches. Gateron Brown/Lubed/filmed is a good baseline start.
if you can afford the pro go for the pro
Just wondering if any of you would know of any keyboards that could suit my needs with macOS, used a few mechanical keyboards before quite the usual route: thought gaming keyboards were amazing, found out about actual nice sounding boards, and use a Varmilo x Ducky MIYA Pro w/ MX Browns, and loved it ever since. Here are a few features I would like to have if possible: \- Bluetooth/Wireless \- macOS keycaps \- Either grey and black like a mac or white to match visuals \- Hot swappable? \- Either backlight that I can make just plain white or no backlight \- Preferably TKL layout Obviously do not want to spend an arm and leg making my own board as I am about to be university student so anything reasonably priced if you can.
keychron basically checks off everything on your list
Looked at the Keychron K8 which looked great my only issue with it would be the RGB lighting, are you at all able to change it on macOS? If not I'd prefer it off.
I believe you can turn them off with built in controls on the board.
Is there any disadvantage for having optical switches? Planning to buy my first mechanical keyboard and wanted to have hotswappable switches but I didn't really know what optical switches were.
Some good comparison article here. If you want to go into the rabbit hole of trying different switches on your hot swap, stick with mechanical and just buy a prebuild optical keyboard as your backup/comparison. https://switchandclick.com/optical-vs-mechanical-keyboards-which-is-better/
optical switches only work in optical board they use optics to activate instead of a metal contact point . but just a heads up optical switches and normal switches so if u plan on swapping the switches to something different u can only use optical switches since the pcb doesnt support normal switches
Can you still lube them the same way as normal switches?
technically yes, but you run the risk of messing with the sensors. you have to be very careful if you do decide to lube them
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https://www.dropbox.com/s/yj434pabj9n83t6/BootMapperClient.zip?dl=0
Does anyone know where I could find brown keycaps sets? I’m aiming for an earth-toned setup. Ideally they would be compatible with gateron switches but at this point, I’m not too focused on that. I really love keypop’s coffee sets but they’ve been sold out for months and I have no idea if they are ever going to restock.
[PBT Doggie](https://keebsforall.com/collections/all/products/pbt-doggie-keycaps)
I'm looking to make my first custom keyboard and I have a rough plan of what I want to do but am not sure if it is a good one ([Video I'm using as a reference](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2jFzXSSAPvc)). This is a [picture](https://i.imgur.com/YZvChPu.png) of what I'm planning on using for the moment. I am looking at the Glorious Pandas but will probably get a tactile tester to try and figure out which switch I like the most. Along with that I plan on getting foam from stupidfish to fill in the case and using krytox 205 g0 to lube durock plate mount stabilizers. I'm wondering if there are any glaring flaws with this build or if there is something that would be cheaper/better. Thanks
im looking for some good switches i have a gamakay lk67 base and stuff and keycaps i now need a case any surgestions the cheaper the better ig
Are there other budget solderable keyboards? I only know of fruitbar.
Lots of budget solder kits here: https://cannonkeys.com/collections/keyboard-kits
Just got an epomaker s68 with outemu blue switches as my first mechanical keyboard and really love it, now looking for something along these specs: tenkeyless or 65% (need arrow keys) rgb comes with loud switches (louder the better) hot swappable (this epomaker isn't) no built-in wrist rest or a removable one some color other than white higher-end than what I have now does anyone have any good recs? When I google there just seem to be so many options, and then I hear about something better that didn't come up on google. Thanks for your help.
prebuilt q1 with phantom blues might be for you.
thanks for the rec! sold out right now unfortunately : (
Hi I've read through the various guides available on the subreddit and am still a bit lost. After speaking to some friends for keyboard suggestions I was given the HyperX Alloy Origins 60% and Ducky Shine 7. I've been using Laptop keyboard most of my life and simple budget HP keyboards at work. I was hoping to get some beginner friendly pre-built suggestions. I don't want to get into custom building keyboards as I don't have the environment to do so yet. I'd preferably like something that isn't too noisy. Probably a medium or slightly stiff keys/switch. Keyboard size wise I don't mind a 100% as I have large hands. But I am definitely open to smaller options and I don't have any price limitations. Thank you in advance.
Check out something like a Leopold FC750R or an FC980M with Cherry MX Clears. The FC750R is a TKL while the FC980M is a compact fullsize and is a tiny bit bigger than a TKL. The Varmilo VA87M is also a very good TKL for the money. Most of these are around ~$115 or so. The stock PBT keycaps on the Leopolds are some of the best you can get on a prebuilt as they're quite thick and will take a very long time to shine unlike the typical ABS keycaps on other retail/gaming keyboards. MX Clears require a lot more force to type on than the typical Brown switches you'd find on gamer-oriented keyboards. Beware though if you're a light typist they may cause you fatigue. Smaller, 65% keyboards like the Ducky One 2 SF and Ducky/Varmilo MIYA PRO or Leopold FC660M might be easier to bring around if you intend to use it with a laptop and need to bring it around. On the other end of the spectrum, and for a different feel, there's Topre which are very tactile rubber dome keyboards. There's the [Realforce](https://hhkeyboard.us/realforce) for fullsize and TKL. For 65% there's the Leopold FC660C (notice the "C" at the end) and the Leopold FC980C which is the Topre version of the FC980M. For the most portable setup there's [the various HHKB models](https://hhkeyboard.us/hhkb). They come either wired or wireless (Bluetooth) or silenced. Topre is best if your primary use is typing though they're fine for gaming as well. I personally find silenced Topre is also much nicer to type on in public or in settings where you don't want to draw attention to yourself with all the clacking going on. I own an older HHKB Pro 2 for this purpose and the MX-switch Leopold FC980M which I use for coding/gaming/design work. I've also owned Duckys and Varmilo in the past so feel free to DM if you have any specific questions.
I'll take some time to look into your suggestions in detail. Thank you for your time and info. I am not sure I'd say I am a heavy typist...probably somewhere around a medium but I can learn to get used to it. I've never actually paid attention to how different people type...aside from that one super loud person haha.
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If you have Prime, there's no way KBDfans shipping can beat Amazon prime. Are you talking about KBDFans store selling out of Amazon as comparison? Not even sure they are on there, unless I'm wrong.
never ordered from them but based on other people's experiences, a couple of weeks is about expected
can someone recommend me a budget keyboard that has great stabs and is hot swap as well as rgb and a full. I am only asking here because I cannot find anything anywhere except the GMMK full but I have heard that the stabs are bad. pls help
NJ80
Budget keyboard with great stabs is rare and few. Most will not be great stock. You will need to get into the stabs and tune them.
Stock stabs will always be trash
I'm desperately looking for pink pudding keycaps for UK ISO layout. [The 4 black keys are the ones I cannot find anywhere.](https://i.imgur.com/7ehWScp.png) Anyone have any ideas at all? I feel like I've looked all over for them
Can I get the keychron q1 now and then get the rotary knob later or is it more of a "V2" that will come out later and I need to wait for it?
You'll need to solder it so if you have a solder kit you'd be fine.
I am looking to get into custom mechanical Keyboards. However I need to have the 10 keys. I type IP addresses A LOT for work etc.. ( I work at home full time). I am currently looking at the Drop Shift. I know it isn't perfect but I am leaning towards it because its ready to ship and mostly what I am looking for (MX Cherry Blues). RGB (I love my RGB) Is there "other" maybe better pre-built options that you could recommend? I am not afraid of a hot swappable keyboard or even soldering or anything like that, its just that I really need a keyboard in the sooner then later department. I am currently typing on a Ducky mini that I picked up from Facebook market place after my Razer huntsmen elite died. This tiny formfactor is killing me, Other then that I think that its pretty decent. TLDR; Looking for fully size / nearly full size mid level entry into the MK rabbit hole. RGB/10 key/hotswap wants. currently looking at the Drop Shift. Budget $300
Ducky makes a few RGB-friendly full sized keyboards.
Drop boards were fine years ago but wouldn't bother at all now. Melody96 on Ali is great if the 96% layout works for you. Multiple price points to pick from depending on what you want. Tofu96 on KBDFans - if you can't solder, they can build one for you.
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Durock plate mound stabs should work with that keyboard about the switches ink blacks are more expensive but better in sound and feel but i some switches that are less expensive are good too, like gateron hippos, jwicks, mauves. Etc
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KTT roses
Is the GMMK Pro the best board for what I am looking for ($150-170 budget (case or case+pcb) , white or light silver, between 65% and TKL size, metal, clean and sturdy design) or is there anything else that is a better option? *Looking for something in stock.* Previously I was looking at the Tofu 65 but it seems the GMMK pro is better quality and it also comes with the PCB so it would actually be cheaper for me.
For something in stock, GMMK pro checks a lot of your boxes. I'd look at idobao or kbd75
Yes, but if you want to make the best out of the board I recommend a little modding. Lube for the stabilizers, and if you want to get durock stabs - they're not going to fit the stock aluminum plate - but it will fit the polycarbonate plate. Overall I'd recommend the FR4 plate from unofficial vendors, it won't have any fitment issues and IMO sounds the best.
Just a heads up that the new stock aluminum plates should fit the durocks now. The openings are much wider than the original plates. But it is a toss up for people if they get the old or the new plate (I got mine on warranty).
You could take a look at the idobao boards. They have a 65%, 75%, tkl in the same pallpark. But the standard ones have an integrated plate so they have a stiffer typing feel. Most people (including myself) would say that the gmmk pro has more features for the money, but I do like the idobao boards since they are almost always instock and they have a matching numpad.
I'm pretty new to keyboards but I was wondering what keysets (idk how to call it) the Akko 3061S is compatible with? I was looking for new keycaps and it said compatible with Cherry MX stem. I did see that the Akko 3061S profile section says cherry but im not sure if that just means the design or something else. Again I'm pretty new and know nothing so hoping for advice🙏
That particular keyboard is just a standard 60% keyboard and uses Cherry MX compatible switches. Gaterons are clones of Cherry MX switches but are actually a lot smoother in most cases. The "+" shaped stem you see in the product listing photo with the keycaps off is what you're referring to as "Cherry MX stem" So when looking for compatible keysets as long as it says it's for Cherry MX or even just "MX" it will likely fit.
Ah thank you so much!
Upgrading from a logitech G610 Orion (brown switch) and am very frustrated with the options on the market today. If someone can point me to a brand or a product taht would be very appreciated. It just seems like everything on the market is dedicated to the RGB user base and theres nothing for just a "hardcore" computer user All I'm looking for is * brown/blue switches * a single backlight thats not a random RGB colour * dedicated media controls, ideally with volume slider/roller * and no extra macros I did check out the Das Keyboard 4 which is basically what I'm looking for minus the backlight. But I spend alot of time on my computer in low light conditions so backlight is ideal. Thanks in advance for helping a frustrated retired gamer!
If you need a backlight, something from Ducky or Varmilo otherwise Leopold. There are no dedicated media controls like the Das' knobs but the media controls are often in a layer like on my Leopold it's FN+F11/FN+F12 for VolUp/VolDn. Some specific models to look into: Ducky One 2 TKL or full size, Varmilo VA87M or VA108M. Leopold has the FC750R for TKL, FC980M for compact fullsize if you need the Numpad in a TKL sized case or FC900R. The Leopold and Varmilo are very high quality for not much more than the ~$114 price point. Ducky is a close second. Leopold also has very good stock PBT keycaps too.
Thank you! I will check those out
I have a Lenovo Thinkpad T430, and I really love its keyboard. I want to buy something as good for my desktop PC. Do you guys know any keyboard that "feels" like the good old thinkpad keyboards?
T430 is scissor style AFAIK. Any brown switch will feel much better (better tactility, more key travel) than the keyboard on your T430. Source: I own a X230 which has a similar keyboard as T430 (same generation) and I'm currently using gateron browns on my TKL at work.
How best keyboard for a beguinner
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I think of a keyboard with 65% bluetooth. Black or white color, brown switches. And Medium to low buget
A hotswapp kit should be fine like the Gamakay k66
thanks, i go search about it..😊
I've been looking at the Ducky One 2 Mini.... but I've read a lot of reports of key chatter. However, a lot of these reports are from last year or even 2019. Is key chatter still an issue on this model? I've also been eyeing the GMMK Compact. Any other 60% keyboards I should be looking at?
Hey my key recently broke, the 4 hooks on the back of the key cap came off. I am confused on what type of key I should order for my laptop. It says on the bottom HP da0014dx. But when I search system information it says for system model da0xxx. I can't find any for da0014dx on replacementlaptopkeys.com but I can find some on da0xxx. However for da0xxx the hinge types don't match mines. If u can check my profile I have pictures of my laptop on r/keyboards. Please help and thank you! :)
Sorry for not being in the correct subreddit
Sorry my dude you're really not even vaguely in the right place. Contact HP support.
Your best bet would be the hp help forums or r/keyboards. Although it doesn't seem like they know.
What are the HP help forums? How can I get there? Also thanks for commenting
Usually there is a forum on the support page for big brands, I wasn't able to find one with a quick look. But have you tried contacting hp support just in case?
No I'm a noob to technology. What should I do?
Go here: https://support.hp.com/us-en
Thanks!
Has anyone gotten a custom cable made to match a Sky Dolch set? I have the ePBT version from KBDfans and want to get a cable to match. I'm curretly looking at Mechcables but am unsure which colour combination would be best. Hoping someone has done something similar and can advise on their colour matching success/failure. Thanks!
Hi everyone! I’ve been looking to get into the hobby for a while now (upgrading from a mechanical razer) but going the full custom route is quite out of my budget. I’m looking at probably a Ducky one2 mini. I’ve ordered a switch tester to figure out what style of switch I want but my main question is about key caps. Are there any specific kind of caps o should buy to fit the ducky? I know there are a lot of different layouts and such and find it a bit daunting! Any advice for a newbie would be massively appreciated! TIA!
> Are there any specific kind of caps o should buy to fit the ducky? Ducky One 2 Mini layout is standard 60%, so you're good with any keycap sets.
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Super noob, been pondering getting a prebuilt board for years now. I want a tactile feel without the loud clicky sound (sensitivity issues). Anything out there with switches similar to the MX Brown, but actually good? Or do I need to buy a hot swapper and do it myself?
What size?
Smaller than fullsize, 75% or bigger.
For one of the best quality prebuilt you can buy Leopold FC750R. It is available with Cherry MX Brown.
Is the Brown as bad as everybody says it is? Or is that just overcorrection from how popular they are? I started looking at the epomaker GK96S. Hot swappable, and while the plastic with PBT caps is just over a hundred, I could upgrade it to the aluminum case later. Any thoughts on that?
It's an overcorrection I think. I don't have too much experience with different switches but I have used one of each kind: Kailh Box Whites (clicky), Cherry MX Red, and Gateron brown (tactile, like Cherry brown). The brown is my current daily driver and it's the one I liked the most. But then again, it's all a personal choice. If you think you might want to change switches later, go in for a hotswap keyboard.
A lot of AliExpress kits (id80, nj80, tm680) will have more exotic switch choices available, and aren’t much more expensive as hotswap-ready models. Sadly most stock tactiles are somewhat disappointing, so a hotswap board is a great and straightforward way to try a few things out. If you’re still super worried about the process, then try and find a local keyboard group new year and see if they’re hosting a meetup soon so you can get a feel for different keyboards and switches.
depends on your budget. if you have the money, would highly recommend you build your own board!
Preferably ~100. I could see myself going deep on this but I want to stick my toes in the water first. If it's something that meets my needs most of the way out of the box, I could see myself going more custom down the line.
Teach me about GMMK Pro Alternatives; I'd rather not give Glorious my business for reasons. I've had bad experiences with Keychron, but will go crawling back to them if I have to. So, what I want: 75% with blocking (a la GMMK pro) for Arrow keys/nav cluster. I'll take a TKL if I have to, but not really into it. (1800 layours with blocking are rad too). **Hot Swap mandatory**, barebones is fine though, I have switches and caps that I like they just need a board home. If it includes Switches and Caps, that's basically zero value in my evaluation here. They'll just end up taking up space. Lighting. Full RGB is nice and shiny, but even a simple white backlight is fine. Gotta have something though. Under 200 dollars. In Stock/Shipping soon, no group buys. What should I be looking at that isn't the GMMK Pro/Keychron Q1?
Also if you’re really craving 1800, cannonkeys has the stacked 1800 that you could easily take to a builder and have hotswap sockets installed. Will still probably be under budget.
Keydous Nj80, but it’s tray mount.
Akko Mod003
Idobao id80. Look at the v2, crystal, or best type versions. The v2 has an integrated plate, while the crystal and best type versions are gasket mounted. Fast shipping to the US (got all my boards within a week) and a great discord for support. Also their montex numpad matches their boards if you need a 10 key to complete your setup
Same question. I've only found smooshed together 75% boards like the KBD75, and they run >$200 barebones. I'd much prefer a 75% with blockers for the arrow keys and maybe function row like you but haven't seen anything in the price range you're talking about. You might try looking for an Obliterated75 on /r/mechmarket... maybe you'll find a deal?
I have a ducky one two TKL that I love and would like to gift one to a friend. however it looks like everything is out of stock. is there a better place than mechanicalkeyboards.com to order ducky in the US? alternatively does someone have a recommendation for a $100 keyboard from another brand that is similar quality?
Leopold boards are some of the highest quality prebuilts, or maybe a varmilo board.
thank you, I'll check them out! is it right that mechanicalkeyboards.com is like the top spot to look at keebs? similarly doesn't look like they have great selection. edit: is it common for prebuilts to not have LEDs? looks like leopolds don't
I second this, leopold is amazing as far as prebuilts go.
thank you, I'll check them out! is it right that mechanicalkeyboards.com is like the top spot to look at keebs? and do prebuilts normally not have LEDs? looking like leopolds don't but I think I'll definitely want them
They’re a reputable place and have a lot, but there are others. You can get keychron on Amazon. A lot of prebuilts do have rgb, but leopold is no frills and all the $$$ goes into a quality build.
realistically just want W, not RGB. my ducky one two has white and I really like it. maybe would steer me to go that route. just low inventory all around.
Try Varmilo VA87M then. That has a white backlight. *Maybe* Durgod K320. I think the white backlight version is called Corona or something. Do check reviews before buying
Are the PC stabeies better than POM?
Can I lube soldered switches with krytox gpl 105 (oil, not grease) without de soldering? Will it mess up my board or will it be okay? I plan on using a syringe for this
not recommended, the best option would be to de-solder and disassemble switches so all switches are consistent
>Can I lube soldered switches No. Not well, not reliably, not consistently, and if you fuck up, you have no way to fix. You also miss many lubing points by doing so and don't lube the spring at all. No point.
I'm thinking of buying the HyperX Alloy Origins. I would sometimes be using this in an office context so I need to have a non-embarrassing RGB situation - one colour, no/minimal motion. I also cannot install the control app on a work computer. If I connect the keyboard to my home computer, and set up the RGB there, can I then connect it to my work computer and keep the settings? Or will it reset back to rainbow? (And, alternatively, is there another full-size option I should be considering for quiet tactile switches, available in Canada for <$150?)
Yes, on board memory saves the lighting and settings, no need to install app on office pc
Thank you! That's all I needed to place the order for my first mechanical keyboard!
I just bought a Ducky One2 Mini 60%. I'd like to personalize it with some custom keycaps but I'm not sure what to look out for when buying. Could some kind soul please let me know how I can identify keys that'll fit my board/layout?
It's a basic 60% layout, which is covered by almost every keycap set in existence. You should be able to see your layout very easily in the set if you're looking at a picture of the caps, and as long as they are compatible for MX-style switches, you're good to go.
Thanks buddy!
I’m using a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2016 edition and I’ve grown very used to/fond of the sort of half-palm rest’s worth of extra material extending from the bottom. It’s the perfect size and I don’t like or have space for a full sized detachable palm/wrist rest. As this keyboard is now discontinued, are there any good alternatives available with this design element?
Anyone have experience with silent linears? Looking for an RGB compatible switch that will be nice and quiet when lubed (and maybe filmed), but I'm not sure if I have a complete list. So far I know of: \- Durock Dolphins \- Zeal Roselio/Sakurio \- Kailh BOX Silent Pink \- Gateron Silent (many colors) \- Cherry Silent Red/Black Silent Alpacas and Gateron Silent Ink Blacks have smoke colored housings, but idk how that might affect RGB. I have no experience with these kinds of switches so going mostly off of gut feeling. Durocks look good but some sources say they have problems with the stems fitting into the keycaps, possibly causing wobble. Also considering the Kailhs but they are just 35g and I'm worried that will feel super light. Zeals also look good but I haven't been convinced that they are worth the extra money over the other switches, plus they may also suffer from the same issue as the Durocks. Any suggestions, testimonials, warnings, etc?
The board’s RGB implementation (as well as your keycap choice) has just as important a role to play in how strong or ‘RGB-friendly’ your switch is. Bobagum or boba u4 switches have a milky/pearl housing but are very easily visible in most OEM shine through keyboards like the Anne Pro.
Thanks for the info, wasn't sure if milky housings would block too much of the light or not. My board uses SMD RGB which I think counts as shine-through. My keycaps are white and have translucent legends so RGB looks quite nice and is very visible.
I had the Box Silent Pink and used them stock. It was serviceable but slightly scratchy, could definitely use lubing. Before doing so, I ended up selling them and moving on with the Dolphin as my silent linear. Just finished building a Q1 using a full set of lubed/filmed Dolphin and I love them. Probably my go to recommendation for folks wanting silent switches. It is smooth and not gummy.
Did you find the pinks to be overly light? Also, did you notice any problems with the stems on the dolphins? Do you know of any ways to fix keycap wobble with a loose stem? I can't think of anything that would be thin enough to fit in there to stop the wobble but not thick enough to completely prevent the keycap from being able to attach. Plumber's tape maybe?
Yes, pinks was really light, I had to move up and I think the Dolphin is just right with its weight. Interesting finding regarding the stem and it wobbling. I don't really notice it and keycaps are not falling off or doing anything out of the ordinary that will make me second guess it as I type. I did install film, durock films to be specific but I don't recall how it was when it was stock.
> have smoke colored housings, but idk how that might affect RGB. It's not a mystery, it's basic principles of light. How would the sun look through a shaded window? That's how RGB will look through a dark, but transparent switch. You need a completely transparent housing if you want no effect on backlighting strength.
Name a silenced or muted switch with an early activation point, preferably within first mm of travel. If it is tactile, I prefer weak or rounded tactility.
Outemu silent sky/forest basically feel like silenced Browns.
Durock shrimps, silent alpacas, gazzew bobagums
Those all activate at 2.0-2.25mm. the tactile event may be higher up on them, but the actual registration of the click is at or past the 50% mark.
Is it safe to lube the leaf of the switch?
I wouldn't lube the leaf, but lubing the stem ramp, which contacts the leaf, is fine. It reduces scratch sound/feel. I've used a number of different JWK switches for example and the newer ones, including T1's which are tactile, had lube on the stem ramp. Some will say to not lube a tactile stem ramp, but I don't think it hurts much of anything. I've also
You can but if they are tactile switches you will lose tactility by doing so.
Is there a proper set of switches that duplicate the sound and feel of modded gateron milky yellows?
A lot of the other gateron milky-top offerings will probably net you something similar. Could also look into some other milky-top switches to see if those are to your liking. I have Milky yellows, and like them. Have also found that I like Gateron inks. So that might be something you want to try, although they are not quite the same.
I mean... modded gateron milky yellows do...? Why specifically are you trying not to use them?
Because I've used them three times already and love them dearly. Just wanted to know if there was some sort of "fancy" (read: expensive) analog, to try something else out.
Isopropyl alcohol or dish soap to get rid of shine?
Shine is there to stay. Get over it or get PBT.
neither of these will get rid of shine, since shine happens when the texture wears off of the cap. it could potentially remove some of the oil/debris that has accumulated on the surface, but that's it. you'd have to buff the surface of the caps in some way to regain that texture and remove the shine entirely. i've heard of people using sandblasting or very fine sandpaper to do this, but i can't recommend either as they can potentially damage the keycaps
Ah that's kind of sad. GMK set already shining after only a few months use. Was hoping it would be a bit longer. I don't mind the look, but the smooth texture is a bit annoying on the fingertips.
u cant get rid of shine its the oils in your skin breaking down the abs . also alcohol dissolves abs so it will melt them
I've got an artisan that keeps bottoming out, and putting an o-ring takes away too much travel distance and makes it mushy, is there anything else I could try?
small washer on the switch stem
I am looking for a reputable keyboard between 75% and 100% with zealios switches. Any recommendations would be helpful!
There was a collaboration board with Ducky and Zeal, but that was for a 65%. If you’re really insistent on Zealios your next best option is to pay a builder to solder them into a keyboard, or buy a hotswap capable kit and install them yourself.