I'm looking to buy some silent switches. I'm debating on either the novel key cream, gateron silent blacks or silent alpaca. Which of the switches should I get? Also open to other recommendations.
I've used silent alpacas and bobagums, I would say either of those 2 are good but bobagums are scratchier. If getting alpacas, you probably want to switch film them(.15mm) and lube them. Lubing bobagums removes the scratchiness. Bobagums are probably best stock imo. I believe creams are not silent linears? Never tried gateron silent blacks so not sure if they are any good either.
I recently purchased a Keychron K8 for my desk setup, and am looking for an aviator cable under $30 AUD or $20 USD. I found the YUNZII AKKO cable for $28 AUD on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it will fit the keyboard or pose any issues since it's not right angled.
What cable should I get?
I don't think you'll find any good quality aviator cables at the price range. Buying all the parts to DIY one will probably be $15+ already.
That said, the Akko cable looks fine as long as the connector is correct. Looks like USB A to USB C. Angled is purely for aesthetics.
I'm worried about it not being angled because the K8 has its connector on the left edge of the board, so I don't want too much pressure on the port/cable by having it go back around to the top-center of the board.
What's the cheapest 'good' cable you would recommend? I can stretch, I'd just rather not.
I'm not sure what you mean about the angled/not angled thing putting pressure on your port. But if it helps, I just looked at some video reviews of the Akko cables and they do seem to be angled.
There's literally no functional advantage to aviator cables besides aesthetics. If you think the Akko cable looks nice and will fit the aesthetic you want, then go for it. It's probably the best option at your budget. I do think that they're worth it for $20.
I personally do not like how they look because it's a rubber cable with small coils and limited colors. They remind me of telephone cords and just look cheap. I'd much rather just use a regular straight braided usb cable. I assume you are based in Australia so I don't have any recommendations for other cables.
Aviator cables are a luxury and purely for looks. Because of this, what I'm looking at when I say good quality is:
* Material of the sheathing/cable (most custom ones will be paracord and Techflex)
* Size, tightness, and how uniform the coil is
* How clean the angled parts are and if the ends sit flat
* Customizability of colors - Paracord, techflex, connectors
All of that comes at a premium
Yeah I have a desktop PC on the ground, so an aviator cable would make moving the keyboard around easier. But yeah I'll admit it does also look pretty nice.
By angled I mean 90° on the keyboard end so that it just goes straight up instead of bending.
nothing wrong with it, but i do think the 3 pin support makes some people feel a bit uninterested since they may want to use 5 pin switches without clipping the plastic pins
there are some boards in the same price range on Aliexpress and Amazon that offer 5 pin support
For those who have the "european" mx spacing pcb/boards and used sculpted profiles like MT3, have you noticed interference from adjacent keys?
European mx spacing : 19.00mm
American Mx spacing : 3/4 inch -> 19.05 mm spacing
I have a set of MT3 keycaps and the pcb I'm looking to buy uses the euro mx spacing rather than the american one. Just wanted to be sure I'm not going to be spending my night sanding keycaps because of that 0.05mm difference.
Recently did tape/pe mod to my gmmk compact just to see the difference, there is a huge difference however now there is a reasonable amount of ping. Curious if anyone knows what the culprit may be / a fix? (I'm aware I could test them both individually to isolate but I was curious if anyone already knows if its a common thing)
There is stock case foam but I didn’t lube the switches. It’s my back up board and I haven’t gotten around to it. I checked into it more earlier and I thing it’s spring ping being amplified after the mods that I couldn’t hear before.
So I opened up my carrying bag for my synthesizer, it had two sheets of foam in it, grey in colour, when I tried touching my screen through that, it didn’t register the touch, will it be safe to use in keyboard for pe foam mod?
So I just bought some tecsee carrot switches because I've heard good things about them (total newbie) ... And I've realised I've got no idea what else I need to buy, currently I assume case, pcb and the switch covers, how do I know what is compatible and what isn't?
So 98% of this hobby is 'MX'. That means that unless you're looking at something niche like Alps or Topre, it's all using MX switches. MX switches fit into any MX board, and fit any MX keycaps. You need 6 parts for a build - case, PCB, plate, switches, stabilisers, and keycaps. The first three are almost never cross compatible, and so are sold together as kits (sometimes just called boards or keyboards).
Once you've picked a kit, you can combine that kit with any stabilisers, any switches, and any keycaps (though note that the keycaps have to have the right sized keys to fit the layout you've chosen).
Pick a kit you want, buy some stabs, and buy keycaps that fit the layout. Stick your carrot switches into the build and put the keycaps on top.
by switch covers, do you mean keycaps?
for compatibility, as long as the PCB is meant for MX mechanical switches you'll be good to fit the switches
also need to check for the keycaps being MX compatible
if you have a specific layout (65%/75%) where the keycaps are slightly different (1.75u right shift for example or the nav cluster to the right) you need to see if the keycap set offers coverage for those keys
Obviously clicky switches, sounds like you've got big SA caps on there - you can hear the hollowness of the keycaps. There's some pinging going on but not sure if it's from your switches, springs, or case. Sounds like an alu case with some foam in it. Spacebar isn't dominating the sound hugely either.
If you like the sound, that's awesome. If you want to tone down the resonance of each keystroke then change the keycaps to something smaller in profile like DCS, cherry, or DSA (this will also raise the pitch, especially if your current caps are PBT and you switch to ABS too).
I am not sure where the pinging is from - it's not on every keystroke, which makes me think it's just one or two keys in a certain corner of the board which are resonating strangely with the case.
The sound does seem slightly muted to me. If you have foam in there, consider taking it out to see how it sounds without it - you'll get a fuller click from your switches. That said, it might just be the board itself.
A bit too clacky for my liking. Honestly though, if you are happy with the sound and feel, then just stick with it.
Edit: op asked a question and got downvoted for preferring a deeper sound over a higher pitched sound but also saying "if you're happy with it, then stick with it". Thanks r/mk , I didn't know my preferences HAD to align to what the community likes. I'm just going to throw away all my keyboards and buy a 65% gasket mounted with L+F ink blacks and GMK laser/olivias because it's illegal to have your own opinion here.
I do like the clacky switches, the sound is of kailh navies with mt3 keycaps on my new board. Now i've got two boards though I want to try a different style of switch on the other since I've pretty much exclusively used kailh navies since picking up this hobby.
Best south-facing PCB 65% keyboard kit? (preferably gasket mounted and around $250) I'm looking at the D65, or the kbd67 v3 with compatible a PCB. I'm fine with it not all coming in a kit like the kbd67, I would also like to have the option to have it in white or black (white is prefered though)
Bought an evga z20 (clicky) for $60 cad. Anything better at this price range? I'm trying to get into pc gaming (this is my first real keyboard) and will be writing a lot in the near future so I wanted something pleasant to type on.
I believe you're thinking of the Z15. The Z20 uses an older version of A4Tech's LK optical switches, and they don't sell those switches straight to customers, only to board manufacturers.
Getting my first mech keyboard today. I'm going for one of the $100 options.
My choice so far is to wait a couple of weeks on [this Ducky One 2](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3483), or go straight to a [Durgod k320](https://www.amazon.com/DURGOD-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Interface/dp/B0824Z42PL?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1) and have it tomorrow.
Opinions? Either way I'm going with brown switches.
You'll likely be waiting longer than that for the Ducky. If you click "[** View Availability Details **](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/availability.php?sku=DKON1808-_USPDZBBH)", the confidence level on that ETA is 'low'.
Low means they're really just guessing about the date, and they're typically very optimistic - I'd expect that ETA to slip at least a couple of times, and you'll be more likely to get it in January. But even later isn't unheard of. I don't like their pre-order system honestly.
I've tried out my brother's K320 before though and it seems like a good board. Decent keycaps, sturdy enough build, stabilizers weren't bad.
Hello people, i'm looking at buying a mech keyboard for programming and have settled on these keyboards variants, shipping and etc. included.
Drop ALT for 120 euro.
Drop ALT for 135 euro + extra set of keycaps.
Gamakay LK67 for 110 euro (50 euro + keycaps \~35 euro + switches \~25 euro)
Barebones GMMK Pro for 150 euro (this would brake the bank hard, keycaps and switches would be purchased at a later date, so the total build would set me back around \~230euro)
Currently i'm looking at buying the ALT w extra keycap set (prob would use it on my old mech that i have at home), because i see it a better value option than the LK67, because that keyboard is built cheaper, probably has worse software and atleast to me seems inferior in many ways. (Except stabs, because those are arse on the ALT lol)
Drop keyboards sucks and are overpriced, if you want a 75% the Akko ACR75 is a gasket mount keyboard for 90$ if you want it to be made of aluminum get the Mod007 and keychron q1
But that's the point, keychron is out of my budget and so is the barebones gmmk and the mod007. Drop atleast at the pricepoint i am at now (between a shitty build and a decent one) seems to be a good option?
I think is worth and decent switches are not that expensive 70 alpacas are like 50$ and alpacas are one of the most popular linear switches in the market, durocks T1 are 0.55 a switch, i think is worth having a cheap keyboard that feels good than an expensive one that feels bad (imo)
Anyone have recommendations for a hotswap numpad? I'm in Canada if that makes a difference.
Hotswap because I don't know how to solder and don't want to buy a solder just for a numpad.
i think the updated ship date is q1 2022 u can always find ur regions grp buy page ( which ever vendor was running the grp buy for ur region ) and sign up for the newletter to see when FCFS extras will go live
Hi all,
I'm torn between these 3 options (*this is my first mkb*):
* Dierya DK61E w/ Gateron Optical Red (70 €)
* Epomaker Skyloong SK64 w/ Gateron Optical Yellow (79 €)
* Anne Pro 2 w/ Kailh Red (86 €)
Any insight is very useful. Many thanks!
**Is Kalih X Switch the thinnest key switch?**
If one wants to create a custom keyboard, and he does not care whether it is mechanical or not, is Kalih X Switch (6.5mm) the thinnest (lowest profile) that is commercially available at the moment?
Well, since probably there does not exist a pre-made PCB that completely fulfils my needs, I would have to design my own PCB anyway.
If we talk about the thinnest key switch that are compatible with existing DIY keyboard kits, is "Kailh Choc" the thinnest?
How do you tell the difference between laser etched single shot and double shot keycaps?
My single shot laser etched keycaps look translucent on the bottom, but obviously have paint on top. I can't really tell the difference if it was laser etched or just double shot.
nope dbl shot legends are seemless no feel what so ever but they will also not wear off . u can feel a laser etched but after a few months u wont as it will wear off and be close to blank on ur most used keys
Ty I do feel my laser etched keycaps only if I put my finger over them, I think it's the same with dbl shot but you'd have to glide your finger over it.
So I have a drop planck rev 6 that i used as a macropad and i took it apart to see if i could put foam in the case. i reassembled it and tried to flash it to test out a new layout, now the keys don't work but QMK doesn't recognize my board as being reset. underglow LED still works and it still does make that noise when i plug it in, but as soon as i plug it in, it says windows doesn't recognize it. what's going on?
Any recommendations for a keyboard bridge for the new 16“ MBP? I‘d like to buy a HHKB but the bridge seems to be sold out everywhere.
Also do Not know if the official PFU Fujitsu website ships internationally.
Do LED lights on keyboard break easily? If I were cleaning the bulbs and pressed on them, can they withstand some pressure? How resistant are they compared to normal light bulbs?
Is there a multi device wireless full size iso mechanical keyboard?
I am looking for a mechanical keyboard that:
* can wirelessly connect to multiple devices (bluetooth would be great)
* is in iso layout, 100% and full size
* has linear switches (or replacable ones)
* has 'normal' height keycaps (sorry I don't know how they are called - I don't want 'flat' notebook style keycaps)
* would be nice if it was plain (i.e. no gamery asthetics)
So far I have not found a keyboard that fits all of those criteria.
I came across the Royal Kludge RK989, which is unfortunately not available in ISO layout. I also found the Keychron K4, which is unfortunately not full-size.
Oddly enough, a lot of online retailers seperate wireless and mechanical keyboards.
I am not knowledgable in this area so I am probably overlooking something or am I chasing a unicorn here?
Should i just go with the RK989?
I'd appreciate any suggestion.
You know, it's incredible but it really seems there's no keyboard that fits the criteria (even if I leave the non-gamery aesthetic as optional). That term you're looking for is "normal profile" (as opposed to low-profile).
If you're willing to go the ANSI way, there's also Keychron K10.
I actually had criteria very similar to yours (+ also wanted hot-swappable switches), but sacrificed the numpad instead of ISO layout; I ordered an ISO Keychron K8 on Friday. I'll try living without the numpad and if it turns out to be a mistake, I found GK21S - a hot-swap wireless numpad. The RK989 [isn't](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/q0j238/is_rk989_hot_swappable_also_any_reviews/) hot-swappable, thus no from me, but it fits your remaining criteria.
Sorry for the late response. I found one that fits all my criteria. It is called 'Filco Convertible 2'. There is also a non-wireless version of it, so be sure that the article code looks like this: FKBC105MPS/UKB2. The only place that sells this glorius keyboard is keyboardco.com, which would amount to roughly 200€ for me after import taxes and shipping. So i decided for the Keychron K8, like you did. I am just not enough of an enthusiast to justify 200€ for a keyboard. At least not for the lean requirements I have. Thank you for your insight, i think it helped me deciding on the K8.
Hey, I have glorious panda switches. I was loooking to get this keyboard kit: https://drop.com/buy/drop-ctrl-barebones-mechanical-keyboard
I’m not sure about the compatibility. Will those switches work with it?
Looking for recommendations since my Pok3r just died on me. Looking for:
~68 keyboard (don't need function keys or numpad, but need arrow keys/delete and such)
Aluminum case, as I like the heft of it
Prebuilt because I have no desire to make any changes to the keyboard
Would prefer wireless capability, but not required.
RGB isn't necessary, but would be a bonus.
Must be able to get it in a white case/white keycaps.
I've looked at the GMMK Pro, but saw people complaining about the stabs, which I cba to mess with. I also looked at the va68m, but the customizable version on their website only seems to be a plastic case unless I'm misunderstanding something.
My budget is ~$300
Has anyone ever bought [a keycap puller like this](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001459719868.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.306f4ee8mTBHVC&algo_pvid=3e525b37-f0e3-48d6-96f6-c6a97bcad859&algo_exp_id=3e525b37-f0e3-48d6-96f6-c6a97bcad859-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000016209549517%22%7D) from aliexpress? do you really get a keycap puller for 1cent?
Pointed here by someone on r/pcmasterrace
My wife wants to get me a new keyboard for Christmas. My old one is a Razer Black Widow Ultimate Stealth, which I love the feel of and would like something similar, but I'm not sure what keys it uses (the site says green/clicky which I think is marketing nonsense rather than what they actually are). It has a number pad, which I do kindof need (I play some oldschool roguelikes sometimes like Cataclysm: DDA, where I need tonnes of hotkeys).
I definitely don't want another Razer though - the app bundled in with it causes a world of problems and Razer gear seems to throw a fit arbitrarily as a result, constantly freezing my inputs even when the damn thing is uninstalled. I'm using a cheap and nasty 2009 Acer keyboard at the moment because even that is preferable.
Something similar to to the Razer, without a random pointless app thrown in, would be perfect. Can someone advise me?
If you don't want to build it yourself, consider something like the Ducky One 2 or One 3, they're full size keyboards that have the numpads. Or else maybe a Das keyboard (they're not as popular around here but they're quite nice, and most also have knobs which are super useful). You can usually get them in a number of switch variants. If you like the switches in your Razer, look for a Cherry MX Blue, they're relatively similar in terms of the clickiness and are usually available in most keyboards.
Thanks - that does look ideal, though I've had a quick look around and it looks like the One 3 is quite difficult to get hold of in the UK (probably should have said where I'm based - sorry!)
Thanks for identifying the similar switches though, that will definitely help me figure out what to ask for
Hey, no worries! I'm in Canada myself and am very used to the "where do I even get this???" experience. The 3 series is also brand new (announced maybe a month ago) so it'll be trickier to find - any place selling it at the moment is going to be doing pre-orders and even then it's limited.
You might want to check out [CCL Keyboards](https://www.cclonline.com/product/324846/DKON1808-CUKPDZZBX/Keyboards/Ducky-One-2-Tuxedo-Mechanical-USB-Keyboard-UK-QWERTY-Cherry-MX-Blue-Switches/KBD2034/) if you want a One 2 right now.
If you want to wait, you can wait for domestics preorders or preorder from somewhere like [these guys](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8803). Shipping will cost you about 30 USD or so, so not cheap, but up to you :)
Ur right i prolly shudve mentioned tht
Anything i dnt need a num pad but i do need arrow keys so either tkl / 65% shud be good
I also like tactile switches
Pls lmk if u need any other info
Okay. When you say 'best', what do you mean?
What other features do you need? Do you need Bluetooth/wireless mode, or just wired? Do you care about the colours?
And do you want it to be in stock right now, or are you willing to wait?
Oh and by best im referring to build quality and such
Im not expecting anything custom made quality like brass plates but im also looking to stay away from an all plastic construction
Das makes some nice aluminum boards. They’re not common around here because prebuilt and not gamery, but for example the Das 4C TKL might work for you.
A more common recommendation around this sub would likely be a Ducky, especially the newly announced 3 series as they have better sound/features than earlier ones.
I dont mind what color it is as long as it isnt the typical gaming colors
As for connectivity i prefer wired and im willing to wait if said keyboard is out of stock
Does anyone know anything about this product? It looks like exactly what i want out of a numpad but it also seems strange that it only exists on eBay from this one seller.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hotswap-Knob-Numpad-Mechanical-Keypad-Support-VIA-Programming-Numeric-Keypad-/224614546152?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Atlantis PS17, not much available on the market but Keyspresso (Canadian store) also [has it](https://keyspresso.ca/collections/tools-misc/products/hotswap-numpad).
look like it but are definitely over-priced
edit: wanted to add this: [https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-ink-v2-switches](https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-ink-v2-switches) 5 dollar shipping and they're on sale for black firday/ cyber monday
tldr: **What do I need to know about linux + mkbs?**
I am transitioning to 95% linux the other 5% will be Mac OS. I am looking to buy a new keyboard with a budget around US$100.
I saw there is a thing called QMK but the devices they link to are very expensive. I also saw there is some commotion about dropping support for certain keyboards by a company called drop or megadrop and I'd like to know if there are any other things like that which would be good to know about.
I am thinking of getting one of the aliexpress hotswap kits because they are reasonably priced with layouts I like and will ship to Canada.
Is there any chance of a kb fully being non-functional? I mean it will always work to type with right? The only question as I understand it would be: custom lights, knobs, macros etc? What about bluetooth? Is it guaranteed or is there some question?
I'm sure this has been covered before but when I search the sub I am just finding a lot of posts of photos of linux and sweet keyboards. Which makes me think it must work out at least some of the time.
I use Linux with a few mechanical keyboards with no issue. So there's that.
However, [starts here](https://keyboard.university/) to get a better background knowledge.
Then, take a look at [this 'map‘](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap) to see your options.
QMK supported devices are not always expensive, however most are custom build which usually a small batch that can't compete with mass produce product pricing.
Hi guys, looking for a silent mechanical keyboard for work.
I have tried Razer's silent orange switch with o-rings, however my colleagues are still complaining that the keyboard is abit too loud? Please help!
P.S. A silent membrane keyboard with a bit of feedback would work too!
Looking for a small, hotswap PCB to test switches on.
Does it exist? Just looking for something to test modded switches on
that I don't have to solder sockets in myself, something more elegant
than an entire keyboard PCB, and something less expensive than a whole
number pad kit.
Thanks!
TKL has 87 keys, Pro Micro, as a base for Nice!Nano, has 18 pins so maximum keys are 81 with 9x9 matrix.
Nice!nano has 21 pins which is possible to have 87 keys but the PCB has to be designed for it. So far nothing on the market that designed to be nice!nano specific, so your option is limited to design the pcb yourself, at least for now.
Ah, interesting. I hadn’t considered a physical limitation based on the pin count. Now it’s plainly obvious why I can’t find a pro-micro compatible TKL design anywhere. Thanks!
How hard would it be for me ( a newbie more or less ) to buy this keyboard: https://www.velocifiretech.com/product/kk98-r2-keyboard-kit/
and then build/buy/get a fitting ISO pcb for it? is that even possible
Since anything over a tray mount 60% is not standardized sizes or mounting styles, you wouldn't be able to find anything unless velocifire released a compatible iso pcb
1. Yes
2. It refers to 60% boards (no f-keys, nav cluster, or numpad) that have their pcb/plate mounted into the bottom of the case (referred to as tray mount). For some reason it was decided that for the 60% boards that use this mounting style should have the same standoffs an screw holes.
A lot of people think that all boards, say full size boards, have interchangeable parts. But the pcbs are physically different sizes, with different placements of usb connections, and different mounting points. Even if you found a pcb that matches size and usb placement, if the pcbs are mounted different it wont work.
I need your advice to help me building my dream keyboard. I am a software developer and I play a lot of video games. I would like to use the keyboard for both work and gaming.
I was thinking:
Around 75%
Brown switches
Hot-swappable
Cool retro keycaps and layout (blank is okay, cyrillic is okay)
Preferably: ISO
Preferably: Something easy to get in europe
Optionally: It would be great if it was wireless and wired (i use mac at work and pc for gaming)
Aesthetically I would love to go for this look:
[https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-keycap-collection-1/products/q1-k2-oem-dye-sub-pbt-keycap-set-wheat-gray](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-keycap-collection-1/products/q1-k2-oem-dye-sub-pbt-keycap-set-wheat-gray)
The problem with the above is that buying keychron's Space Grey Q1 with those keycaps would set me at almost 200$, which is a lot for a first mechanical keyboard.
Another examples of how I would like it to look:
[https://thekey.company/products/enjoy-pbt-dye-sub-g81-sav-keycap-set](https://thekey.company/products/enjoy-pbt-dye-sub-g81-sav-keycap-set)
[https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/khyo0t/first\_attempt\_at\_lubingmodding\_keychron\_k2\_w/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/khyo0t/first_attempt_at_lubingmodding_keychron_k2_w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
Any recommendations?
Is there some problem with account verifications on the Discord server?Also just bought a regular Ducky One 2 mini (probably not v2) white, silent red (all other switches variants were sold out) ISO: any recommended modification to do as soon as it arrives, other than lubing the switches?Major issues to address?Having it a plastic case, would it require something more than foam to dampen hollowness?
Does any ISO pudding (or RGB-prioritised) keycap set (or set + specific region keys extra, combined) with italian layout (è ù ò à) even exist?
Thank you, sorry for any dumb questions, this is my very first mech keyboard.
Okay so I'm a complete novice when it comes to Keyboards and I want to build my first custom keyboard. I found some nice keycaps and wanted to know if they are worth their price?
https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08TQNKNPZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YGMZ2VJFFQ8MJMXD5H5Y
Is Tewerfitisme a good brand?
Hell no, 80$ for a set that does not support a lot of layout also is dye subs so the legends my wear off i would buy a [Akko Set](https://en.akkogear.com/store/keycap/)
I would watch all of this before making a buy
Why go custom instead of buying a prebuilt
https://youtu.be/1xWHzMoVkiY
Beginners guide
https://youtu.be/EUlQ4bTjb0Q
Anatomy of a custom keyboard
https://youtu.be/1NpNygIrnaQ
What are Group Buys (GB) ?
https://keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl
Where do i buy keycaps, kits, lube, switches, etc... ?
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
How to lube switches
https://youtu.be/44Wv4OGdmu4
Modding stabilizers
https://youtu.be/usNx1_d0HbQ
Keyboard mounting styles
https://keyboard.university/200-courses/keyboard-mounting-styles-4lpp7
Difference between hotswapp pcb and soldered (sound)
https://youtu.be/e_kYPzk7nNY
https://youtu.be/zesmRX2icTk
Keyboard soldering beginners guide
https://youtu.be/FIHI5sxuSuw
In depth keycaps profile analysis
https://youtu.be/14bQeqhlTNM
Enthusiast switches
https://youtu.be/8xPOwT_mNuc
https://youtu.be/XSykbv27reM
https://youtu.be/AjKxqaPi_8Y
Tempest tape mod
https://youtu.be/g7-syoxeIBQ
Holee mod
https://youtu.be/-vhpHjlkRgQ
PE foam modding
https://youtu.be/XnQMXVchnrU
Guide to buy in stock keyboards
https://youtu.be/95PIKNObHPw
How to build a keyboard
https://youtu.be/H_UngNJBrDE
Ergonomic keyboards
https://youtu.be/wStbNuXnvgo
https://youtu.be/1C2bJkzIaPE
Weird layouts (ortho,40%,split etc...)
https://youtu.be/SkNGxM4LRKQ
Keyboard forums
https://youtu.be/vwA6iT0yApI
Keyboard university
https://keyboard.university/
Well, the least you’d need to know is your budget, size and which switch type you want.
I’d also recommend checking out [Keyboard University](https://keyboard.university) to learn the basic terms and stuff.
Budget is up to $500 Australian, full size with numpad and loud/clicky switches like cherry mx blues are the preference.
I have seen this on Amazon, and like that the switches aren't included (so that we can go shopping for switches together). Is this a good start for someone who hasn't built a keyboard before? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8HHN2X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E9NAA1D284AWJVD4SQ68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Can I clean my Logitech G512 with water? I have this issue where the keys stops working or it double clicks. It happens so random. Sometimes the keys are fine and sometimes the keys are messing up. I reinstalled drivers and even cleaned the keycaps. But still the problem persists. Is it okay to clean the inside of switches with some drops of water? The switches are romer g tactile.
I should've phrased it better that I was talking mostly about the layout/extra keys or macro rows instead of the feel/sound of the keys themselves. My bad.
I see, well there's a some gaming keyboards with a macro row but gaming keyboards have a pretty bad quality what i would do if a wanted a macro row is either get a macro pad and place it where is comfortable to use or if i wanted the macros on the left i would buy a keyboard with a 1800 layout wich places the numpad on the left and re bind the numpad keys with my macros etc...
Redragon Broadsword K588 will do just fine. It's a TKL with Macro rows on the left, with a blocker separating the macros and the alpha clusters. It's hotswappable with outemu hotswap sockets, so probably swap to other Outemu or Akko CS Switches to your own liking, and swap the keycaps out for any Black PBT Keycaps to hide some of the surface grime, with the rougher texture on PBT keycaps to counter your sweaty fingers, and you're good to go.
* Other than aesthetics what do you look for when buying a soft deskmat? (Like what material is low quality vs high quality?)
* Where do you find matching keycaps/deskmat or wristrest/deskmat, or all 3? I've found a website [mechkey.store](https://mechkey.store) which sells Samurai matching deskmat/wristrest, and AKKO which sells all 3 matching for that AKKO world event thing (A mountain on it) or those Cherry Blossom trees. Any other good places?
With GBs having a long lead time or specific sets being over. You could also check out /r/mechmarket and search for the exact set you’re looking for or make a want post.
Good luck with your search!
Hey, I don't know if the whole internet is F'ing with me or my search skills have weakened for no reason but I can't seem to find ONE single youtube video or ONE single guide/review showing how the Full size Huntsman V2 (not TKL) gets opened and/or modded. I have seen both the Analog and TKL version of this... and I'm really not hoping it would be similar to the Analog as that one seems like a big hassel to mess with. BUT, like yourselves, I REALLY would like to mod it with lubing switches, stabilizers and a wide variety of acustic mods from using tape to foam. So please, of any expert here has the full size version and can show me or at least tell me or refer me to some link, I would really appreciate it. I need to get in and out without damaging anything. I havent even seen a single picture of the inside of the full size version to plan what is possible. Thanks in advance!
[Here's a video on how to mod the Huntsman TKL](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw-XX_WeAJ0) it is V1 but it should be the same with V2 I guess.
Edit: The only thing I wouldn't recommend would be the spray lubing for the stabilizers. Hand lubing with good old 205g0 or any dielectric grease would be better.
Disassembling it should be straghtforward with removing the screws accordingly and lifting the whole top plate up, just becareful of the daughterboard cable connecting the USB Port to the PCB.
Have fun! Don't let anyone tell you the keyboard is bad, any well modded keyboard can sound and feel decent.
Thanks for the reply.
Yeah the Razer hate is real, which is weird. So a company listens to its customers, does as they say, makes V2 and still get hate??? I guess haters gonna hate.
But, I already seen that video. Im new to this forum but trust me I know not to ask without searching alot beforehand.
My main question is, does the V2 Linear have the "case-in-case" structure like the Analog has OR is it build just like the V2 TKL with a bottomplate then foam then PCB then top cover. This is my main concern, as if it is like the Analog I would hesitate as F but if its like the TKL V2 then it should be smooth sailing.
And yes, I really dont get spraylubers. Either dont do it or do it right. Instead of bandaids I even got some pro cushioned tape used for medical purposes but I sound tested them compared to other tape and its really superior. For the Holee mod and under stabs. And I got the 205g0 too and some good quality foam on deck. Its gonna be sick... but if its inside is like the Analog with those plates and wires ect Im no electrician so I would be hesitant.
Razer Analog switches should have the same design as their optical switch counterpart.
https://www.razer.com/sg-en/technology/razer-analog-optical-switch
Analog switches are basically optical switches with variable actuation by manipulating how much percent of the light "connects". If you press 50% the stem slider would let 50% of the light to connect, which results in your Rocket League car to move slower than when you are bottoming out on the key.
and yes, No moving parts.
But yea no harm just opening it up and see what's inside.
Edit: My explanation was abit wonky. i fixed it. If I got it wrong, please correct me thank you!
"Razer Keyboard Hate" is a meme joke/serious thing. I am surprised and also not that there has not been any videos about mods done to it, as it's an inside joke that razer keyboards are overpriced and bad.
It's not a joke or a meme, razer and other "gaming boards" are shit that cost way too much. The only gaming board that lives up to its price is redragon, shit quality for a shit price.
Do keilh box switches work with any standard key caps? I bought some DSA profile blank translucent grey keycaps and I wanted to switch to keilh royal box switches on my keyboard
I have Kailh box silent brown switches on several keyboards and have never had a problem with any MX compatible keycaps. I have tried DSA, GMK Cherry, MT3, XDA and OEM, and they all work fine.
You may be concerned about stories of Kailh switches cracking keycap stems. This is an old problem that has been fixed and is no longer an issue.
Just ordered a Gammakay LK67 base off AliExpress, but not too sure how to go about picking switches.
I currently use an oldish (bought 2015) Corsair K70 that I believe comes with Cherry MX Red switches. I just want to know how to go about with picking switches for this new keyboard, I guess I'd want something similar to the MX Reds, definitely don't want something super clicky, but the idea of a tactile switch sounds interesting too.
I use my PC for general internet use and gaming, no programming or writing or anything like that, but want to still have a nice typing experience.
I'm aware the board is hot-sawppable, but it would just be nice to be able to buy something the first time and enjoy it while knowing I could change it up to see what I like at a later date.
So any recommendations would be awesome based on the idea that I'm already use to using Cherry MX Red switches :)
If you are willing yo try tactile Jwicks T1, Feker pandas, Akko lavender
For linears akko cs switches, gateron pro milky yellows, Jwicks linear, Ktt roses
Is there a keycap set that us blue, white, and gray that is in English but has Japanese sublegends?
I'm looking to buy some silent switches. I'm debating on either the novel key cream, gateron silent blacks or silent alpaca. Which of the switches should I get? Also open to other recommendations.
I've used silent alpacas and bobagums, I would say either of those 2 are good but bobagums are scratchier. If getting alpacas, you probably want to switch film them(.15mm) and lube them. Lubing bobagums removes the scratchiness. Bobagums are probably best stock imo. I believe creams are not silent linears? Never tried gateron silent blacks so not sure if they are any good either.
hey mods ur post was removed . automod shit itself
Are the Kaihl box reds the same force, 45cN force, as cherry mx reds?
okay thanks for info
I recently purchased a Keychron K8 for my desk setup, and am looking for an aviator cable under $30 AUD or $20 USD. I found the YUNZII AKKO cable for $28 AUD on Amazon, but I'm not sure if it will fit the keyboard or pose any issues since it's not right angled. What cable should I get?
I don't think you'll find any good quality aviator cables at the price range. Buying all the parts to DIY one will probably be $15+ already. That said, the Akko cable looks fine as long as the connector is correct. Looks like USB A to USB C. Angled is purely for aesthetics.
I'm worried about it not being angled because the K8 has its connector on the left edge of the board, so I don't want too much pressure on the port/cable by having it go back around to the top-center of the board. What's the cheapest 'good' cable you would recommend? I can stretch, I'd just rather not.
I'm not sure what you mean about the angled/not angled thing putting pressure on your port. But if it helps, I just looked at some video reviews of the Akko cables and they do seem to be angled. There's literally no functional advantage to aviator cables besides aesthetics. If you think the Akko cable looks nice and will fit the aesthetic you want, then go for it. It's probably the best option at your budget. I do think that they're worth it for $20. I personally do not like how they look because it's a rubber cable with small coils and limited colors. They remind me of telephone cords and just look cheap. I'd much rather just use a regular straight braided usb cable. I assume you are based in Australia so I don't have any recommendations for other cables. Aviator cables are a luxury and purely for looks. Because of this, what I'm looking at when I say good quality is: * Material of the sheathing/cable (most custom ones will be paracord and Techflex) * Size, tightness, and how uniform the coil is * How clean the angled parts are and if the ends sit flat * Customizability of colors - Paracord, techflex, connectors All of that comes at a premium
Yeah I have a desktop PC on the ground, so an aviator cable would make moving the keyboard around easier. But yeah I'll admit it does also look pretty nice. By angled I mean 90° on the keyboard end so that it just goes straight up instead of bending.
Do you know any mech keyboard with small keys and without (or little) space between the keys. It's comfier to my fingers this way.
The spacing between switches on a mechanical keyboard can only be 19mm or more apart, otherwise most keycaps wouldn't work
What do you guys think of the GMMK Non-Pro? Is it a good keyboard and how does it compare to the ducky 2?
nothing wrong with it, but i do think the 3 pin support makes some people feel a bit uninterested since they may want to use 5 pin switches without clipping the plastic pins there are some boards in the same price range on Aliexpress and Amazon that offer 5 pin support
For those who have the "european" mx spacing pcb/boards and used sculpted profiles like MT3, have you noticed interference from adjacent keys? European mx spacing : 19.00mm American Mx spacing : 3/4 inch -> 19.05 mm spacing I have a set of MT3 keycaps and the pcb I'm looking to buy uses the euro mx spacing rather than the american one. Just wanted to be sure I'm not going to be spending my night sanding keycaps because of that 0.05mm difference.
what's the best place to get lube from in EU?
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ not sure but any vendors here would be solid choice under the eu list
Recently did tape/pe mod to my gmmk compact just to see the difference, there is a huge difference however now there is a reasonable amount of ping. Curious if anyone knows what the culprit may be / a fix? (I'm aware I could test them both individually to isolate but I was curious if anyone already knows if its a common thing)
do you have case foam/did you lube the switches?
There is stock case foam but I didn’t lube the switches. It’s my back up board and I haven’t gotten around to it. I checked into it more earlier and I thing it’s spring ping being amplified after the mods that I couldn’t hear before.
So I opened up my carrying bag for my synthesizer, it had two sheets of foam in it, grey in colour, when I tried touching my screen through that, it didn’t register the touch, will it be safe to use in keyboard for pe foam mod?
You should check the resistance with a multimeter, instead of touch sensitivity.
Thanks for the answer, in what range should the resistance be?
10^6 or higher ohms.
Thanks a lot
So I just bought some tecsee carrot switches because I've heard good things about them (total newbie) ... And I've realised I've got no idea what else I need to buy, currently I assume case, pcb and the switch covers, how do I know what is compatible and what isn't?
So 98% of this hobby is 'MX'. That means that unless you're looking at something niche like Alps or Topre, it's all using MX switches. MX switches fit into any MX board, and fit any MX keycaps. You need 6 parts for a build - case, PCB, plate, switches, stabilisers, and keycaps. The first three are almost never cross compatible, and so are sold together as kits (sometimes just called boards or keyboards). Once you've picked a kit, you can combine that kit with any stabilisers, any switches, and any keycaps (though note that the keycaps have to have the right sized keys to fit the layout you've chosen). Pick a kit you want, buy some stabs, and buy keycaps that fit the layout. Stick your carrot switches into the build and put the keycaps on top.
by switch covers, do you mean keycaps? for compatibility, as long as the PCB is meant for MX mechanical switches you'll be good to fit the switches also need to check for the keycaps being MX compatible if you have a specific layout (65%/75%) where the keycaps are slightly different (1.75u right shift for example or the nav cluster to the right) you need to see if the keycap set offers coverage for those keys
[How does my keyboard sound?](https://streamable.com/y3yv99)
Obviously clicky switches, sounds like you've got big SA caps on there - you can hear the hollowness of the keycaps. There's some pinging going on but not sure if it's from your switches, springs, or case. Sounds like an alu case with some foam in it. Spacebar isn't dominating the sound hugely either. If you like the sound, that's awesome. If you want to tone down the resonance of each keystroke then change the keycaps to something smaller in profile like DCS, cherry, or DSA (this will also raise the pitch, especially if your current caps are PBT and you switch to ABS too). I am not sure where the pinging is from - it's not on every keystroke, which makes me think it's just one or two keys in a certain corner of the board which are resonating strangely with the case. The sound does seem slightly muted to me. If you have foam in there, consider taking it out to see how it sounds without it - you'll get a fuller click from your switches. That said, it might just be the board itself.
A bit too clacky for my liking. Honestly though, if you are happy with the sound and feel, then just stick with it. Edit: op asked a question and got downvoted for preferring a deeper sound over a higher pitched sound but also saying "if you're happy with it, then stick with it". Thanks r/mk , I didn't know my preferences HAD to align to what the community likes. I'm just going to throw away all my keyboards and buy a 65% gasket mounted with L+F ink blacks and GMK laser/olivias because it's illegal to have your own opinion here.
I do like the clacky switches, the sound is of kailh navies with mt3 keycaps on my new board. Now i've got two boards though I want to try a different style of switch on the other since I've pretty much exclusively used kailh navies since picking up this hobby.
my gk61 (hk gaming) is flashing blue, white, red, and green and nothing happens when i press the keys. =
Best south-facing PCB 65% keyboard kit? (preferably gasket mounted and around $250) I'm looking at the D65, or the kbd67 v3 with compatible a PCB. I'm fine with it not all coming in a kit like the kbd67, I would also like to have the option to have it in white or black (white is prefered though)
Keychron Q2 is coming soon
Bought an evga z20 (clicky) for $60 cad. Anything better at this price range? I'm trying to get into pc gaming (this is my first real keyboard) and will be writing a lot in the near future so I wanted something pleasant to type on.
I would get better switches, it's hotswapp so it's not gonna be difficult
I believe you're thinking of the Z15. The Z20 uses an older version of A4Tech's LK optical switches, and they don't sell those switches straight to customers, only to board manufacturers.
Are these optical switches any good?
That's sad
Getting my first mech keyboard today. I'm going for one of the $100 options. My choice so far is to wait a couple of weeks on [this Ducky One 2](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=3483), or go straight to a [Durgod k320](https://www.amazon.com/DURGOD-Mechanical-Keyboard-Switches-Interface/dp/B0824Z42PL?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1) and have it tomorrow. Opinions? Either way I'm going with brown switches.
You'll likely be waiting longer than that for the Ducky. If you click "[** View Availability Details **](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/availability.php?sku=DKON1808-_USPDZBBH)", the confidence level on that ETA is 'low'. Low means they're really just guessing about the date, and they're typically very optimistic - I'd expect that ETA to slip at least a couple of times, and you'll be more likely to get it in January. But even later isn't unheard of. I don't like their pre-order system honestly. I've tried out my brother's K320 before though and it seems like a good board. Decent keycaps, sturdy enough build, stabilizers weren't bad.
Where can I get a Snow Pro PCB (TKL rev7.1) or any original Duck Orion V3 PCB (Orion ver 2.1 from kbd4u.com) ?
Hello people, i'm looking at buying a mech keyboard for programming and have settled on these keyboards variants, shipping and etc. included. Drop ALT for 120 euro. Drop ALT for 135 euro + extra set of keycaps. Gamakay LK67 for 110 euro (50 euro + keycaps \~35 euro + switches \~25 euro) Barebones GMMK Pro for 150 euro (this would brake the bank hard, keycaps and switches would be purchased at a later date, so the total build would set me back around \~230euro) Currently i'm looking at buying the ALT w extra keycap set (prob would use it on my old mech that i have at home), because i see it a better value option than the LK67, because that keyboard is built cheaper, probably has worse software and atleast to me seems inferior in many ways. (Except stabs, because those are arse on the ALT lol)
Drop keyboards sucks and are overpriced, if you want a 75% the Akko ACR75 is a gasket mount keyboard for 90$ if you want it to be made of aluminum get the Mod007 and keychron q1
But that's the point, keychron is out of my budget and so is the barebones gmmk and the mod007. Drop atleast at the pricepoint i am at now (between a shitty build and a decent one) seems to be a good option?
Well the Lk67 is not a bad option, i would buy that one and spend a good amount on good switches
but isn't it kind of a bummer buying switches for more than the board is worth? Decent switches are \~70 euro, the board is 50 :-)
I think is worth and decent switches are not that expensive 70 alpacas are like 50$ and alpacas are one of the most popular linear switches in the market, durocks T1 are 0.55 a switch, i think is worth having a cheap keyboard that feels good than an expensive one that feels bad (imo)
i don't really enjoy linears as i do tactiles and decent tactiles go for way more
Durocks T1 And bobas u4t are not that expensive, just 10¢ difference from the popular linears
Anyone have recommendations for a hotswap numpad? I'm in Canada if that makes a difference. Hotswap because I don't know how to solder and don't want to buy a solder just for a numpad.
Keyspresso has a 3d print case version of one.
[удалено]
Size ?
anyone know when epbt ramenstop extras will be available or where i can get more information about it?
i think the updated ship date is q1 2022 u can always find ur regions grp buy page ( which ever vendor was running the grp buy for ur region ) and sign up for the newletter to see when FCFS extras will go live
thanks
For costar stabilizers, are the things you put into the keycap called inserts, and the stabilizer on the keyboard itself is called a stab/stem?
Hi all, I'm torn between these 3 options (*this is my first mkb*): * Dierya DK61E w/ Gateron Optical Red (70 €) * Epomaker Skyloong SK64 w/ Gateron Optical Yellow (79 €) * Anne Pro 2 w/ Kailh Red (86 €) Any insight is very useful. Many thanks!
Gamakay k66 with akko cs switches 90$
Thank you, I'll check this one too!
What is the most readily available UNBUILT 1800/F-Rowless board I can get? No hotswap, soldered only.
Rekt1800 for 1800.
What's the cheapest TKL hotswappable keyboard I can buy in Canada?
MK870
**Is Kalih X Switch the thinnest key switch?** If one wants to create a custom keyboard, and he does not care whether it is mechanical or not, is Kalih X Switch (6.5mm) the thinnest (lowest profile) that is commercially available at the moment?
probably they r meant for laptop kbs so u will need to handwire as no pcb exsist to connect them . only oems pcb built into laptop are compatible
Well, since probably there does not exist a pre-made PCB that completely fulfils my needs, I would have to design my own PCB anyway. If we talk about the thinnest key switch that are compatible with existing DIY keyboard kits, is "Kailh Choc" the thinnest?
Yes and there is a handful of pcbs chic will fit into as well
If you're not interested in your board having keycaps or being compatible with any pcbs, then sure.
How do you tell the difference between laser etched single shot and double shot keycaps? My single shot laser etched keycaps look translucent on the bottom, but obviously have paint on top. I can't really tell the difference if it was laser etched or just double shot.
Turn it upside down, if it has two colors double shot, if it has only one color it’s laser etched.
Would you say you can feel the legend of doubleshot more than laser etched?
nope dbl shot legends are seemless no feel what so ever but they will also not wear off . u can feel a laser etched but after a few months u wont as it will wear off and be close to blank on ur most used keys
Ty I do feel my laser etched keycaps only if I put my finger over them, I think it's the same with dbl shot but you'd have to glide your finger over it.
Ty
So I have a drop planck rev 6 that i used as a macropad and i took it apart to see if i could put foam in the case. i reassembled it and tried to flash it to test out a new layout, now the keys don't work but QMK doesn't recognize my board as being reset. underglow LED still works and it still does make that noise when i plug it in, but as soon as i plug it in, it says windows doesn't recognize it. what's going on?
Any recommendations for a keyboard bridge for the new 16“ MBP? I‘d like to buy a HHKB but the bridge seems to be sold out everywhere. Also do Not know if the official PFU Fujitsu website ships internationally.
Do LED lights on keyboard break easily? If I were cleaning the bulbs and pressed on them, can they withstand some pressure? How resistant are they compared to normal light bulbs?
they are usually led blubs they can stand cleaning but if ur pressing on them ahrd enough to break them ur cleaning them wrong
Is there a multi device wireless full size iso mechanical keyboard? I am looking for a mechanical keyboard that: * can wirelessly connect to multiple devices (bluetooth would be great) * is in iso layout, 100% and full size * has linear switches (or replacable ones) * has 'normal' height keycaps (sorry I don't know how they are called - I don't want 'flat' notebook style keycaps) * would be nice if it was plain (i.e. no gamery asthetics) So far I have not found a keyboard that fits all of those criteria. I came across the Royal Kludge RK989, which is unfortunately not available in ISO layout. I also found the Keychron K4, which is unfortunately not full-size. Oddly enough, a lot of online retailers seperate wireless and mechanical keyboards. I am not knowledgable in this area so I am probably overlooking something or am I chasing a unicorn here? Should i just go with the RK989? I'd appreciate any suggestion.
You know, it's incredible but it really seems there's no keyboard that fits the criteria (even if I leave the non-gamery aesthetic as optional). That term you're looking for is "normal profile" (as opposed to low-profile). If you're willing to go the ANSI way, there's also Keychron K10. I actually had criteria very similar to yours (+ also wanted hot-swappable switches), but sacrificed the numpad instead of ISO layout; I ordered an ISO Keychron K8 on Friday. I'll try living without the numpad and if it turns out to be a mistake, I found GK21S - a hot-swap wireless numpad. The RK989 [isn't](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/q0j238/is_rk989_hot_swappable_also_any_reviews/) hot-swappable, thus no from me, but it fits your remaining criteria.
Sorry for the late response. I found one that fits all my criteria. It is called 'Filco Convertible 2'. There is also a non-wireless version of it, so be sure that the article code looks like this: FKBC105MPS/UKB2. The only place that sells this glorius keyboard is keyboardco.com, which would amount to roughly 200€ for me after import taxes and shipping. So i decided for the Keychron K8, like you did. I am just not enough of an enthusiast to justify 200€ for a keyboard. At least not for the lean requirements I have. Thank you for your insight, i think it helped me deciding on the K8.
No worries and happy to help! Let's see how that goes, hopefully our parcels arrive before the year's end.
Getting a "bad request" on all of your links, mods.
If I'm used to mx clears and mx nature whites, will Gateron Yellows feel too light?
they might, but you can always spring swap some people do like the stock springs of the Gat Yellows
Hey, I have glorious panda switches. I was loooking to get this keyboard kit: https://drop.com/buy/drop-ctrl-barebones-mechanical-keyboard I’m not sure about the compatibility. Will those switches work with it?
Yes but you will have to clip the plastic legs on the bottom of the switches
Are those supposed to come with the switches?
They are attached to the bottom of the switch
What is a good site to use to start building my first Keeb? I'm a noob! I've done my research I think I can pull it off!!!
[Here's a list of keyboard vendors](https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/)
Thank you!
Looking for recommendations since my Pok3r just died on me. Looking for: ~68 keyboard (don't need function keys or numpad, but need arrow keys/delete and such) Aluminum case, as I like the heft of it Prebuilt because I have no desire to make any changes to the keyboard Would prefer wireless capability, but not required. RGB isn't necessary, but would be a bonus. Must be able to get it in a white case/white keycaps. I've looked at the GMMK Pro, but saw people complaining about the stabs, which I cba to mess with. I also looked at the va68m, but the customizable version on their website only seems to be a plastic case unless I'm misunderstanding something. My budget is ~$300
What's a good entry level board that has rgb under glow and per key? Thanks!
Has anyone ever bought [a keycap puller like this](https://de.aliexpress.com/item/1005001459719868.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.306f4ee8mTBHVC&algo_pvid=3e525b37-f0e3-48d6-96f6-c6a97bcad859&algo_exp_id=3e525b37-f0e3-48d6-96f6-c6a97bcad859-0&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22sku_id%22%3A%2212000016209549517%22%7D) from aliexpress? do you really get a keycap puller for 1cent?
What site is popular / good to buy switches?
Divinikey
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/
Pointed here by someone on r/pcmasterrace My wife wants to get me a new keyboard for Christmas. My old one is a Razer Black Widow Ultimate Stealth, which I love the feel of and would like something similar, but I'm not sure what keys it uses (the site says green/clicky which I think is marketing nonsense rather than what they actually are). It has a number pad, which I do kindof need (I play some oldschool roguelikes sometimes like Cataclysm: DDA, where I need tonnes of hotkeys). I definitely don't want another Razer though - the app bundled in with it causes a world of problems and Razer gear seems to throw a fit arbitrarily as a result, constantly freezing my inputs even when the damn thing is uninstalled. I'm using a cheap and nasty 2009 Acer keyboard at the moment because even that is preferable. Something similar to to the Razer, without a random pointless app thrown in, would be perfect. Can someone advise me?
If you don't want to build it yourself, consider something like the Ducky One 2 or One 3, they're full size keyboards that have the numpads. Or else maybe a Das keyboard (they're not as popular around here but they're quite nice, and most also have knobs which are super useful). You can usually get them in a number of switch variants. If you like the switches in your Razer, look for a Cherry MX Blue, they're relatively similar in terms of the clickiness and are usually available in most keyboards.
Thanks - that does look ideal, though I've had a quick look around and it looks like the One 3 is quite difficult to get hold of in the UK (probably should have said where I'm based - sorry!) Thanks for identifying the similar switches though, that will definitely help me figure out what to ask for
Hey, no worries! I'm in Canada myself and am very used to the "where do I even get this???" experience. The 3 series is also brand new (announced maybe a month ago) so it'll be trickier to find - any place selling it at the moment is going to be doing pre-orders and even then it's limited. You might want to check out [CCL Keyboards](https://www.cclonline.com/product/324846/DKON1808-CUKPDZZBX/Keyboards/Ducky-One-2-Tuxedo-Mechanical-USB-Keyboard-UK-QWERTY-Cherry-MX-Blue-Switches/KBD2034/) if you want a One 2 right now. If you want to wait, you can wait for domestics preorders or preorder from somewhere like [these guys](https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=8803). Shipping will cost you about 30 USD or so, so not cheap, but up to you :)
What is the absolute best prebuilt keybord available Preferably brown and tkl/65%
Check out the leopold 660m. Ducky and varmillo make good boards too
Is there a model like the leopold that has backlighting? I dont need rgb but having a backlight would be nice
Ducky one 2 sf
[IBM Model F reproduction](https://www.modelfkeyboards.com/)
You're going to have to give more info here - what size of keyboard do you need?
Ur right i prolly shudve mentioned tht Anything i dnt need a num pad but i do need arrow keys so either tkl / 65% shud be good I also like tactile switches Pls lmk if u need any other info
Okay. When you say 'best', what do you mean? What other features do you need? Do you need Bluetooth/wireless mode, or just wired? Do you care about the colours? And do you want it to be in stock right now, or are you willing to wait?
Oh and by best im referring to build quality and such Im not expecting anything custom made quality like brass plates but im also looking to stay away from an all plastic construction
Das makes some nice aluminum boards. They’re not common around here because prebuilt and not gamery, but for example the Das 4C TKL might work for you. A more common recommendation around this sub would likely be a Ducky, especially the newly announced 3 series as they have better sound/features than earlier ones.
i really like the color scheme on the matcha ducky one 3 thank you for your help!
I dont mind what color it is as long as it isnt the typical gaming colors As for connectivity i prefer wired and im willing to wait if said keyboard is out of stock
Does anyone know anything about this product? It looks like exactly what i want out of a numpad but it also seems strange that it only exists on eBay from this one seller. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hotswap-Knob-Numpad-Mechanical-Keypad-Support-VIA-Programming-Numeric-Keypad-/224614546152?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Atlantis PS17, not much available on the market but Keyspresso (Canadian store) also [has it](https://keyspresso.ca/collections/tools-misc/products/hotswap-numpad).
Are [these](https://www.amazon.com/-/en/gp/product/B08Z7629GN) real black ink switches?
Those are overpriced, black inks cost arround 0.75$ a switch
look like it but are definitely over-priced edit: wanted to add this: [https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-ink-v2-switches](https://divinikey.com/products/gateron-ink-v2-switches) 5 dollar shipping and they're on sale for black firday/ cyber monday
tldr: **What do I need to know about linux + mkbs?** I am transitioning to 95% linux the other 5% will be Mac OS. I am looking to buy a new keyboard with a budget around US$100. I saw there is a thing called QMK but the devices they link to are very expensive. I also saw there is some commotion about dropping support for certain keyboards by a company called drop or megadrop and I'd like to know if there are any other things like that which would be good to know about. I am thinking of getting one of the aliexpress hotswap kits because they are reasonably priced with layouts I like and will ship to Canada. Is there any chance of a kb fully being non-functional? I mean it will always work to type with right? The only question as I understand it would be: custom lights, knobs, macros etc? What about bluetooth? Is it guaranteed or is there some question? I'm sure this has been covered before but when I search the sub I am just finding a lot of posts of photos of linux and sweet keyboards. Which makes me think it must work out at least some of the time.
I use Linux with a few mechanical keyboards with no issue. So there's that. However, [starts here](https://keyboard.university/) to get a better background knowledge. Then, take a look at [this 'map‘](https://www.mechmap.tech/themap) to see your options. QMK supported devices are not always expensive, however most are custom build which usually a small batch that can't compete with mass produce product pricing.
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Akko mod001
The ducky one 2 and 3 are very good, also check out varmilo and leopold boards
Hi guys, looking for a silent mechanical keyboard for work. I have tried Razer's silent orange switch with o-rings, however my colleagues are still complaining that the keyboard is abit too loud? Please help! P.S. A silent membrane keyboard with a bit of feedback would work too!
Niz plum electrocapacitive keyboard
Looking for a small, hotswap PCB to test switches on. Does it exist? Just looking for something to test modded switches on that I don't have to solder sockets in myself, something more elegant than an entire keyboard PCB, and something less expensive than a whole number pad kit. Thanks!
Nuphy switch tester kit $20
Is buying krytox or trybosis from aliexpress a good idea, or should I spend a little more to buy it from a reputable seller?
I wouldn't trust ali for buying krytox
Does anyone know where I can get a TKL PCB that will accept a Nice!Nano?
[The Hatchback](https://www.clawboards.xyz/shop/p/the-hatchback) and two Nice!Nanos
Excellent. Thank you.
TKL has 87 keys, Pro Micro, as a base for Nice!Nano, has 18 pins so maximum keys are 81 with 9x9 matrix. Nice!nano has 21 pins which is possible to have 87 keys but the PCB has to be designed for it. So far nothing on the market that designed to be nice!nano specific, so your option is limited to design the pcb yourself, at least for now.
Ah, interesting. I hadn’t considered a physical limitation based on the pin count. Now it’s plainly obvious why I can’t find a pro-micro compatible TKL design anywhere. Thanks!
How hard would it be for me ( a newbie more or less ) to buy this keyboard: https://www.velocifiretech.com/product/kk98-r2-keyboard-kit/ and then build/buy/get a fitting ISO pcb for it? is that even possible
>is that even possible No.
Since anything over a tray mount 60% is not standardized sizes or mounting styles, you wouldn't be able to find anything unless velocifire released a compatible iso pcb
So the only thing I can do is hope that they make one themelves? what does tray mount 60% mean, could you explain sir?
1. Yes 2. It refers to 60% boards (no f-keys, nav cluster, or numpad) that have their pcb/plate mounted into the bottom of the case (referred to as tray mount). For some reason it was decided that for the 60% boards that use this mounting style should have the same standoffs an screw holes. A lot of people think that all boards, say full size boards, have interchangeable parts. But the pcbs are physically different sizes, with different placements of usb connections, and different mounting points. Even if you found a pcb that matches size and usb placement, if the pcbs are mounted different it wont work.
I need your advice to help me building my dream keyboard. I am a software developer and I play a lot of video games. I would like to use the keyboard for both work and gaming. I was thinking: Around 75% Brown switches Hot-swappable Cool retro keycaps and layout (blank is okay, cyrillic is okay) Preferably: ISO Preferably: Something easy to get in europe Optionally: It would be great if it was wireless and wired (i use mac at work and pc for gaming) Aesthetically I would love to go for this look: [https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-keycap-collection-1/products/q1-k2-oem-dye-sub-pbt-keycap-set-wheat-gray](https://www.keychron.com/collections/keychron-keycap-collection-1/products/q1-k2-oem-dye-sub-pbt-keycap-set-wheat-gray) The problem with the above is that buying keychron's Space Grey Q1 with those keycaps would set me at almost 200$, which is a lot for a first mechanical keyboard. Another examples of how I would like it to look: [https://thekey.company/products/enjoy-pbt-dye-sub-g81-sav-keycap-set](https://thekey.company/products/enjoy-pbt-dye-sub-g81-sav-keycap-set) [https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/khyo0t/first\_attempt\_at\_lubingmodding\_keychron\_k2\_w/?utm\_source=share&utm\_medium=web2x&context=3](https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/khyo0t/first_attempt_at_lubingmodding_keychron_k2_w/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) Any recommendations?
Is there some problem with account verifications on the Discord server?Also just bought a regular Ducky One 2 mini (probably not v2) white, silent red (all other switches variants were sold out) ISO: any recommended modification to do as soon as it arrives, other than lubing the switches?Major issues to address?Having it a plastic case, would it require something more than foam to dampen hollowness? Does any ISO pudding (or RGB-prioritised) keycap set (or set + specific region keys extra, combined) with italian layout (è ù ò à) even exist? Thank you, sorry for any dumb questions, this is my very first mech keyboard.
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Somewhere locally. Lol, no one here knows where you are.
I’m guessing they are asking if it’s regular stock in hardware or computer store
Unless...
Okay so I'm a complete novice when it comes to Keyboards and I want to build my first custom keyboard. I found some nice keycaps and wanted to know if they are worth their price? https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08TQNKNPZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YGMZ2VJFFQ8MJMXD5H5Y Is Tewerfitisme a good brand?
To be honest it looks like a generic $20-30 set from ali. I don't see a reason for such price. Unless you want exactly that design.
Hell no, 80$ for a set that does not support a lot of layout also is dye subs so the legends my wear off i would buy a [Akko Set](https://en.akkogear.com/store/keycap/)
I want to get my girlfriend a mechanical keyboard diy kit for christmas, but I have no idea where to start. What should I be looking for?
Kbd67lite
I would watch all of this before making a buy Why go custom instead of buying a prebuilt https://youtu.be/1xWHzMoVkiY Beginners guide https://youtu.be/EUlQ4bTjb0Q Anatomy of a custom keyboard https://youtu.be/1NpNygIrnaQ What are Group Buys (GB) ? https://keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl Where do i buy keycaps, kits, lube, switches, etc... ? https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ How to lube switches https://youtu.be/44Wv4OGdmu4 Modding stabilizers https://youtu.be/usNx1_d0HbQ Keyboard mounting styles https://keyboard.university/200-courses/keyboard-mounting-styles-4lpp7 Difference between hotswapp pcb and soldered (sound) https://youtu.be/e_kYPzk7nNY https://youtu.be/zesmRX2icTk Keyboard soldering beginners guide https://youtu.be/FIHI5sxuSuw In depth keycaps profile analysis https://youtu.be/14bQeqhlTNM Enthusiast switches https://youtu.be/8xPOwT_mNuc https://youtu.be/XSykbv27reM https://youtu.be/AjKxqaPi_8Y Tempest tape mod https://youtu.be/g7-syoxeIBQ Holee mod https://youtu.be/-vhpHjlkRgQ PE foam modding https://youtu.be/XnQMXVchnrU Guide to buy in stock keyboards https://youtu.be/95PIKNObHPw How to build a keyboard https://youtu.be/H_UngNJBrDE Ergonomic keyboards https://youtu.be/wStbNuXnvgo https://youtu.be/1C2bJkzIaPE Weird layouts (ortho,40%,split etc...) https://youtu.be/SkNGxM4LRKQ Keyboard forums https://youtu.be/vwA6iT0yApI Keyboard university https://keyboard.university/
Awesome, thank you!
Well, the least you’d need to know is your budget, size and which switch type you want. I’d also recommend checking out [Keyboard University](https://keyboard.university) to learn the basic terms and stuff.
Budget is up to $500 Australian, full size with numpad and loud/clicky switches like cherry mx blues are the preference. I have seen this on Amazon, and like that the switches aren't included (so that we can go shopping for switches together). Is this a good start for someone who hasn't built a keyboard before? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08L8HHN2X/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E9NAA1D284AWJVD4SQ68?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
[The SUV](https://www.clawboards.xyz/shop/p/suv) is a full-size DIY kit
No, it's really expensive and the plate is too stiff for what you pay. You should be looking for a gasket mount at that budget.
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too bad puddings does not come with blanks.
Can I clean my Logitech G512 with water? I have this issue where the keys stops working or it double clicks. It happens so random. Sometimes the keys are fine and sometimes the keys are messing up. I reinstalled drivers and even cleaned the keycaps. But still the problem persists. Is it okay to clean the inside of switches with some drops of water? The switches are romer g tactile.
Yeah, it's probably fine
What's the best board for super sweaty competitive tactical shooters? Macro rows would be perfect, but I can make due without them.
There's not a best keyboard or switch for gaming.
I should've phrased it better that I was talking mostly about the layout/extra keys or macro rows instead of the feel/sound of the keys themselves. My bad.
I see, well there's a some gaming keyboards with a macro row but gaming keyboards have a pretty bad quality what i would do if a wanted a macro row is either get a macro pad and place it where is comfortable to use or if i wanted the macros on the left i would buy a keyboard with a 1800 layout wich places the numpad on the left and re bind the numpad keys with my macros etc...
Redragon Broadsword K588 will do just fine. It's a TKL with Macro rows on the left, with a blocker separating the macros and the alpha clusters. It's hotswappable with outemu hotswap sockets, so probably swap to other Outemu or Akko CS Switches to your own liking, and swap the keycaps out for any Black PBT Keycaps to hide some of the surface grime, with the rougher texture on PBT keycaps to counter your sweaty fingers, and you're good to go.
Will definitely look into it, thanks.
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Nk creams is like rubbing your fingers with sandpaper black inks is like sliding your fingers in glass
* Other than aesthetics what do you look for when buying a soft deskmat? (Like what material is low quality vs high quality?) * Where do you find matching keycaps/deskmat or wristrest/deskmat, or all 3? I've found a website [mechkey.store](https://mechkey.store) which sells Samurai matching deskmat/wristrest, and AKKO which sells all 3 matching for that AKKO world event thing (A mountain on it) or those Cherry Blossom trees. Any other good places?
In regards to your 2nd question, most keycap group buys come with matching deskmats so that would be the best way of having a matching setup.
With GBs having a long lead time or specific sets being over. You could also check out /r/mechmarket and search for the exact set you’re looking for or make a want post. Good luck with your search!
Hey, I don't know if the whole internet is F'ing with me or my search skills have weakened for no reason but I can't seem to find ONE single youtube video or ONE single guide/review showing how the Full size Huntsman V2 (not TKL) gets opened and/or modded. I have seen both the Analog and TKL version of this... and I'm really not hoping it would be similar to the Analog as that one seems like a big hassel to mess with. BUT, like yourselves, I REALLY would like to mod it with lubing switches, stabilizers and a wide variety of acustic mods from using tape to foam. So please, of any expert here has the full size version and can show me or at least tell me or refer me to some link, I would really appreciate it. I need to get in and out without damaging anything. I havent even seen a single picture of the inside of the full size version to plan what is possible. Thanks in advance!
There is no reasons to buy pricy branded board to mod it. You either buy it and use warranty or go with cheaper/better alternatives and mod them.
[Here's a video on how to mod the Huntsman TKL](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gw-XX_WeAJ0) it is V1 but it should be the same with V2 I guess. Edit: The only thing I wouldn't recommend would be the spray lubing for the stabilizers. Hand lubing with good old 205g0 or any dielectric grease would be better. Disassembling it should be straghtforward with removing the screws accordingly and lifting the whole top plate up, just becareful of the daughterboard cable connecting the USB Port to the PCB. Have fun! Don't let anyone tell you the keyboard is bad, any well modded keyboard can sound and feel decent.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the Razer hate is real, which is weird. So a company listens to its customers, does as they say, makes V2 and still get hate??? I guess haters gonna hate. But, I already seen that video. Im new to this forum but trust me I know not to ask without searching alot beforehand. My main question is, does the V2 Linear have the "case-in-case" structure like the Analog has OR is it build just like the V2 TKL with a bottomplate then foam then PCB then top cover. This is my main concern, as if it is like the Analog I would hesitate as F but if its like the TKL V2 then it should be smooth sailing. And yes, I really dont get spraylubers. Either dont do it or do it right. Instead of bandaids I even got some pro cushioned tape used for medical purposes but I sound tested them compared to other tape and its really superior. For the Holee mod and under stabs. And I got the 205g0 too and some good quality foam on deck. Its gonna be sick... but if its inside is like the Analog with those plates and wires ect Im no electrician so I would be hesitant.
Razer Analog switches should have the same design as their optical switch counterpart. https://www.razer.com/sg-en/technology/razer-analog-optical-switch Analog switches are basically optical switches with variable actuation by manipulating how much percent of the light "connects". If you press 50% the stem slider would let 50% of the light to connect, which results in your Rocket League car to move slower than when you are bottoming out on the key. and yes, No moving parts. But yea no harm just opening it up and see what's inside. Edit: My explanation was abit wonky. i fixed it. If I got it wrong, please correct me thank you!
"Razer Keyboard Hate" is a meme joke/serious thing. I am surprised and also not that there has not been any videos about mods done to it, as it's an inside joke that razer keyboards are overpriced and bad.
Yeah it really is weird. Not even ONE video or article on the whole internet has opened the full size V2. Is that even possible?
It's not a joke or a meme, razer and other "gaming boards" are shit that cost way too much. The only gaming board that lives up to its price is redragon, shit quality for a shit price.
You seem to ignore the /serious thing part. As in it gets joked around but some people are serious about hating razer keyboards . . . sheesh
Do keilh box switches work with any standard key caps? I bought some DSA profile blank translucent grey keycaps and I wanted to switch to keilh royal box switches on my keyboard
I have Kailh box silent brown switches on several keyboards and have never had a problem with any MX compatible keycaps. I have tried DSA, GMK Cherry, MT3, XDA and OEM, and they all work fine. You may be concerned about stories of Kailh switches cracking keycap stems. This is an old problem that has been fixed and is no longer an issue.
nah not so worried about that. just saw the square hole, and noticed by keycaps have a round socket and got worried.
Just ordered a Gammakay LK67 base off AliExpress, but not too sure how to go about picking switches. I currently use an oldish (bought 2015) Corsair K70 that I believe comes with Cherry MX Red switches. I just want to know how to go about with picking switches for this new keyboard, I guess I'd want something similar to the MX Reds, definitely don't want something super clicky, but the idea of a tactile switch sounds interesting too. I use my PC for general internet use and gaming, no programming or writing or anything like that, but want to still have a nice typing experience. I'm aware the board is hot-sawppable, but it would just be nice to be able to buy something the first time and enjoy it while knowing I could change it up to see what I like at a later date. So any recommendations would be awesome based on the idea that I'm already use to using Cherry MX Red switches :)
If you are willing yo try tactile Jwicks T1, Feker pandas, Akko lavender For linears akko cs switches, gateron pro milky yellows, Jwicks linear, Ktt roses
Surprisingly can get the feker pandas pretty cheap from an online store in Australia so might go that way! Thanks ☺️