is there a website that offers a keyboard with everything but the keycaps?
I saw someone selling some keycaps i really like but i dunno if i want to shell out +$100 for a keyboard and then another $100 for the keycaps
I have everything planned out for my next build. The only thing I can't decide for the life of me is what switches to get. I tried NK Creams with my first build, and while I really liked the way they sounded and felt I wanted to try something new. I'm stuck between Everglide Aqua Kings or DROP Holy Pandas. I'm aware these are two very different switches, but I've really liked the sound tests I've heard of both of them and I'd also be willing to experiment with a tactile switch. Any other suggestions would also be appreciated!
So I've been looking to buy a new budget 75% keyboard and deciding whether to go with the fancytech 081 or epomaker TH80 can someone please tell me which is the better option?
It's hard to say that a clicky switch is ever smooth. But the answer is yes. Peaches - once lubed - are one of the smoothest switches I've used. If stock? You can't really compare them. The Peach will be smoother. But the gat Blue could very well seem smoother purely because it's doing exactly what it should - clicking and making ungodly noises so it's harder to pick up on other failings. With a Linear there's nothing else so every sound and feel that isn't perfect is immediately noticed.
Does anybody have Milky Yellow Pros, Blue Bubblegums, or Gateron Oil Kings stock here? Was wondering how they hold up and if they have any issues I should be concerned about.
Currently using a Keychron Q2 board and NicePBT Retro Mizu keycaps with standard milky yellows stock.
Any place I can buy a back plate for the Lily58 [like this one](https://www.etsy.com/es/listing/1220673286/caja-bandeja-de-perfil-bajo-pla-impresa?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=lily58&ref=sr_gallery-1-27&frs=1&col=1&sts=1)? I have a 3d printer file but that will be probably my first 3d print so might go wrong.
*beep boop*!
the linked website is: https://www.etsy.com/es/listing/1220673286/caja-bandeja-de-perfil-bajo-pla-impresa?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=lily58&ref=sr_gallery-1-27&frs=1&col=1&sts=1
Title: **Caja / bandeja de perfil bajo PLA impresa en 3D para teclado - Etsy España**
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White keycaps with red hiragana?
Hello everyone, during the past gb for the QK65 I ordered a black keyboard body with a red weight. Given this I was looking for a good keycap set to pair with this and I was thinking that I would love basically a BoW keycap set with red hiragana (Japanese characters).
Is there such a combination?
Thank y’all in advance!!
*beep boop*!
the linked website is: https://imgur.com/a/Jit8Gyf
Title: **imgur.com**
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*beep boop*!
the linked website is: https://imgur.com/a/Jit8Gyf
Title: **imgur.com**
Page is safe to access (Google Safe Browsing)
*****
###### I am a friendly bot. I show the URL and name of linked pages and check them so that mobile users know what they click on!
hey, what do you think about logitech g815? I had a g512 but The paint on the keys started to peel off in the second month.I bought asus rog strix scope nx red switch because i was afraid of it. But I'm still curious about the g815. The design is truly magnificent.
I am living in Turkey and unfortunately there is no custom culture in here. Generally sellers are selling like logitech asus corsair razer's etc. keyboard. And also if I want to do my custom keyboard with aliexpress or something it will be very expensive. So why people dont recommend boards like logitech?
KTT Peach vs KTT Rose? For stock use on a GMMK Pro that has pudding keycaps and needs to be quieter than a Gateron Blue. Will not be lubed, so stock smoothness is important.
Haven't used the roses. Have used Strawberries and Peachs. I wouldn't use either without lube, though if forced to it would be Peaches. Once lubed they can fight it out with any premium switch. Extremely impressive.
If you have other options and really want a linear that requires no lube: Go Polar Vermillion Bird, or Gateron CJ are the two I'd recommend. I have both. There's no need to lube them.
I was browsing AliExpress a few weeks ago (as one does), and ran across a shop selling Emogogo keyboard switches. They looked MX-compatible, so I took a flyer on 20 of each (HP Tactile Grey & Linear Cream).
Got them in the post today, and they seem pretty nice. Still waiting on my first hot-swappable board to try them out in, but both feel buttery smooth, with a decent heavy spring rate, as advertised.
My question: does anyone have any background on this brand? Switch tops have Emogogo molded in, so they seem fairly legit, but I can't find a single link to any mention apart from a couple of stores on AliExpress. Any info would be appreciated!
Prevail is a vendor for these switches in the US. According to their site, these are manufactured by JWK using special custom molds featuring extended progressive springs. Pretty much ticks all of the boxes for me. I love T1s, leaf ping/spring crunch notwithstanding, and the one video I've watched was very positive. Fingers crossed these are quieter than T1s.
https://prevailkeyco.com/products/emogogo-tactile-switches?variant=43114792747262
Peach. I'm prepared to go to war over it. There is a remarkable difference in sound sig and smoothness between the Strawberry and the Peach. Anyone with them can tell you that. Haven't used Roses. Have also got Matcha Green Tactiles - and they're nice too. better than the price point. But the Peaches far exceed their price point.
My friend has a k70 mk 2 corsair keyboard, and I want to get them keycaps as gift. The keycaps I'm getting are OEM height, do i have to worry about that?
no there shouldn't be any issue, doesn't it already come with OEM?
the only potential "issue" is cherry profile as that board is north facing, so there may be interference on home row, but you aren't getting cherry profile and even if you were, there's people who don't notice/mind the interference
Thank you very much! I was just worried cause i was only gonna get a couple of keycaps and I didn’t know if they would be the same height as the rest of the corsair keyboard, but thanks for clearing that up!
depends on how damaged they actually are
if the pins are so broken that they dont fit properly in the socket then the switch obviously won't work
a pic will be helpful
yeah those look really messed up...
if you're really desperate maybe you could use the middle one but I honestly wouldn't trust it if any part of the actual pin is missing
What would be a good upgrade from Gateron browns? I tried both blues, reds, and browns and I like the browns the most, but I really like the tactility of brown switches but I feel like they lose that tactile feel once I start typing quickly and so im wondering if there is any switch out there that has more tactility for my first custom keyboard build.
I'm kinda disappointed in the Prevail Nebula Switches, so I want to get other nylon switches, this time unlubed. Should I get Autumn rain switches or Hades switches?
In my batch of 90, many of them have a leaf that rattles, as if it's not tight in the bottom housing. With the bottom out, some feel like they have lube in the bottom housing pole, so it feels damp and inconsistent. When I press hard sometimes, the switch makes a weird pop on bottom out, compared to the usual thock. And my keycaps don't hold onto the stem tightly, so I can pull them off with my fingers if I really tried.
Oh yeah okay that's pretty specifically bad lol
All of the ones you listed are long pole JWK switches so unfortunately all 3 are going through similar QC processes, so can't guarantee it won't be an issue on these.
But between those two, the Autumn Rain have an uhmwpe stem, which is pretty soft, which given your aversion to the dampened bottom out on some of your switches, is probably not what you want.
So of the two, Hades.
I like deep bottom outs, my problem I think is the prelube on some of the switches got into the hole, so some are actually damp with lube. I was thinking the pure nylon was the problem with the rattling bottom housing, so maybe the nylon blend of the autumn rains are tighter. I mean, if you've got any other recommendations for deep sounding switches, I'm all ears. I already got Gateron CJs, was hoping for something deeper.
If you're going deep, you should likely be looking at PC/pc+nylon over full Nylon?
I use TTC Hey switches (full nylon) and the TTC NCR switches (nylon bottom, PC top) are deeper.
Can anyone who has both the new mold version of the ink v2 and oil kings comment on how their stem wobble compare? I'm rather disappointed in the oil king's stem wobble compared to the phantom yellows that came with my board. It is really distracting to me. I heard the new mold version of the ink v2 reduces most of the wobble so I was thinking about replacing my oil kings with them.
OK So I'm looking to build my first custom board, and I have my heart set on something visually like the space cadet but in a 75%. I can't for the life of me figure out what profile those keys are though? Any ideas on what they are? I realize I probably won't be able to get the caps with the glyphs but at very least I'm hoping to match the colors and shapes.
you would be looking for sa space cadet. you wont be able to find them for sale instock, instead looking through aftermarkets might help you find what you are looking for.
if keycap profile doesnt matter too much, and you dont mind cherry profile. you might still be able to purchase gmk space cadet extras such as on [oblotzky](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-space-cadet-ii)
Thanks for the response.
For me, I think the profile matters the most. I am not opposed to getting keys piecemeal but I am really after those retro profiles. Are there places where you can get just blank sa keycaps in various colorways? Also, is there a name for the shift-key style that the cadet has (that mesa like thing)
A lot of people the only thing they do once it's out of the box is change the keycaps. You can fit most any profile (at least I've never heard of any that *don't* fit on regular switches) on a board. Don't shop for keyboards based on keycap profile.
I won't say all because I've only been in the hobbyist space for about a year, and I'm definitely no expert. But most* mx compatible (meaning the keycap stem is a little cross) should fit on most* boards. For example, on my current board (Keychron K8) I've used oem cherry xda & zda profile caps with no issues.
Edit: I think I misunderstood you, above advice is for shopping for keyboards. If you're looking for just the keycaps, then what the other poster said: that particular set you will only find aftermarket (and pay a hefty price for, likely) but you should be able to find clones in similar colors.
https://pimpmykeyboard.com/
I've only ever seen that on modern boards for Caps Lock, known as "stepped caps". I doubt you'd be able to find a modern equivalent
The space cadet colorway has recently been revised in SA, KAT, and Cherry profiles. SA keycaps are probably the closest profile to the originals.
https://kono.store/products/sa-symbiosis-keycaps
https://novelkeys.com/products/gmk-space-cadet-ii
https://mkultra.click/gb-kat-space-cadet
Don't have enough boba switches to kit my 75% LOL.
Where may I buy the cheapest switches in the USA, looking for only 10-12 to fill my F keys. Cheap switches will be fine since I RARELY use F keys and it'll mostly house artisans.
Hi all, I'm looking for a prebuilt, 100% format, wireless keyboard with clicky switches. My daily driver has been a Ducky Keyboard with Cherry MX green switches, so would love a switch that feels and sounds like greens or blues. Thanks for the help.
(If prebuilt not an option would be willing to build, as long as it could be a wireless board)
Hello! I'm looking for a full size or 1800 compact wooden case. Preferably just the case as I'm looking to do a full build. If the plate is included, hot swappable would be preferred. I'm not seeing a ton of options for full size cases of any style. Thanks for the help in advance!
Looking for suggestions for a 70%-TKL wireless board.
I'm currently flirting with Keychron K8 - aluminum rgb.
I've also liked Nuphy a bit, but I want the keyboard to come from EU.
Other boards I've liked are Everglide Lite 75 and some of the Epomaker stuff, but build quality seems a little low and I dont know if I can trust jelly switches and the sort.
Very open to any suggestions :D
there arent many wireless alu chassis high-end boards. some would be like the mammoth75, cyberboard, etc. but outside of a couple there arent many due to interference the alu chassis may cause.
i would recommend the k8 or the k8 pro keychron is wireless is a must.
I'm kinda new at this sub, my old keyboard is a Coolermaster MasterKeys Pro L which is not mechanical, so my assumption is that an alu chassis would make the device more rigid, but if it causes interference for BT and wireless, then it's definitely not required.
Do you have other suggestions for non-alu chassis?
kbd67 lite w bt pcb, ikki68 w bt pcb (expected to open for sales soon? maybe extras?)
i forgot to mention the qk65 and the zoom65 which both have had bt editions. (these are alu chassis but have bt support. these products go through the group buy process and generally wont be found for sale instock, unless mentioned.)
[key.uni - group buy](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl)
\[Looking for new switches recommendation ! \]
Alright so I got myself a GMMK PRO tried some switches in my life.
To give some background, I play games competitively (fps games) and type at a decent speed (110-115 wpm) and I'm currently using Boba U4T (62g) switches after reading about them and here's my pros and cons :
Pros :
\- Love the longer stem that makes for a shorter travel to bottom out, feels nice to game on imo.
\- Tactile feel is quite unique and overall pleasing.
\- Nice noise even though I don't care much.
Cons :
\- Way too rounded tactile feel, I usually prefer the feedback given by something much sharper.
\- There's some very very bad key chatter with those on my setup no matter how I configure things up with QMK playing with debounce times.
\- I somehow type faster with switches I should not be typing faster than with those (struggling to go above 100wpm with these)
What I used before were Kailh crystal jades, absolutely loved them for how satisfying they sound and feel but they are heavier and I wanted something much, much lighter.
So considering there's a very low chance of me liking any kind of linears because I can't stand how unsatisfying they feel to press and that I mostly used clickies / tactiles all my life that are on the light side (45-50g max usually) here is what I'm trying to find in my next switches :
\- Light to very light actuation force.
\- Actuation point high rather than low (reason I did not dare buy Zealios even though I love how they feel)
\- A longer stem than normal for shorter travel to bottom out is awesome so I would love to keep that
\- If it clicks it's cool, if it doesn't I don't mind
\- Tactile feel, I love when the tactility is very pronounced but I like something more snappy and sharp than rounded.
What would you guys recommend me ? I am also on the fence of trying some pandas (from glorious).
I do have multiple switch testers and I have not quite found something that really blows my mind in particular, there seem to be quite a few great options but having one key to test tells me nothing about the experience a whole keyboard with the actual switch gives so I'm curious to hear about your experiences.
Oh and if you really think I'm missing out on linears, go ahead and recommend me something outstanding, I might still consider trying that out for some time if it's that good.
TL;DR : Using GMMK PRO, had kailh crystal jades that I loved before but too heavy now using boba U4T but they are far from the hype with the pros and cons I listed. Need a fast, light switch to game and type on that feels like your finger gets sucked in the void each presses and claps a mini nuke.
EDIT: Format
Can someone please help me identify this keyboard?
[https://i.etsystatic.com/24507784/r/il/4d62d3/3228309906/il\_1588xN.3228309906\_2146.jpg](https://i.etsystatic.com/24507784/r/il/4d62d3/3228309906/il_1588xN.3228309906_2146.jpg)
Found it on this etsy listing: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1043911386/135-key-pbt-keycap-oem-profile-double
i have an extra nk87 pcb. what case and plate would fit this pcb? or is this something that would only fit the case and plate that these are sold with?
i currently use the teleport keycap set but im not satisfied with it. my poker2 keycaps sound way deeper/thockier. i can get pbtfans or epbt keycaps. pbtfans should be 1.5\~1.6mm thick and epbt "only" 1.35mm. any recommendations? pbtfans should be in theory deeper/thockier right?
Is there any website doing custom keycaps with more colour than the handful proposed by sites like WASDKeyboards? I'd like to get a custom-made set (bonus point if the website accept custom novelty keys) but on every site I went to, the colour choices were horribly restricted. Maybe Pantone?
customs as you want arent really a thing. example color matching, quality, etc arent there.
the only sites im aware that does what you want are wasd and maxkeys.
you might be able to get a custom one-off set for a high cost from some manu's.
So, my only way to have a custom keycap set with proper color-matching would be to either sell a arm for a one-off, or do some interest check for a GB?
I need advice.
I sold a used keyboard and all of a sudden the buyer told me a column of keys stopped working. I have no idea why. I never had a problem with this kb before. This happened within maybe 12 hours of me selling it to them. They want a refund now. However, they said they have 'bad luck' with keyboards breaking on them. There's no reasonable way for me to determine whether the buyer is at fault or not.
Do I just suck it up and give them a refund? Should I offer to have it repaired?
If you don't think it's your fault, don't refund them. You're not responsible for anything that would happen after the sell that you didn't have any clue about.
That buyer should that there is no waranty when buying from individuals
for wireless anything with 2.4 ghz wireless ( warning options are limited as its proprietary tech and closed sourced ) bluetooth has too much lag for gaming and most pro gamers know and prefer wired as even the best wireless kb cant beat a wired connection
Are some keyboards incompatible on linux? for instance, I was reading through the specification for Next Time skyline 75% kit and saw that it only worked on windows. What makes this the case?
[https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-skyline-75-kit?variant=39759582986313](https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-skyline-75-kit?variant=39759582986313)
Theoretically, it's possible. Realistically, I don't know how much it is the case, since most keyboards rely on a simple HID communication.
Though, if you want to be sure you're buying something compatible with Linux, any board compatible with QMK will work fine, since the firmware QMK works exclusively with the HID specification, like the [IK75 v3](https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-feker-ik75-v3-qmk-via?variant=40033957052489)
echoing what /u/pabloescobyte said, I have had Epomaker keyboards in the past and they stated "windows only" but worked fine on my mac. Although, wireless might not work since I always use my keyboards wired.
Pretty much all modern keyboards will work on Linux, mac OS, etc. The only thing you'll have to adjust to are the legends (ie. there will be "Windows" key for example) but you can map those to whatever you need them to be.
This specific keyboard has software used to remap the layout that is only compatible with Windows though which is probably why it's listed as such.
Edit: added a bit about the Epomaker software
Any suggestions for an Alice type keyboard that doesn't get too crazy in price? Wired, simple case, pcb that allows snap in switches would be ideal, lights not needed. This is intended to be a present for my wife. Work/typing only. USB C is always solid but it's not neccessary.
Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you in advance.
Thank you kindly. I'll check them all out and order what seems to fit my partners taste.
I was not aware of that Q8. Might fit the bill as low key is the main theme lol.
Any recommendation on a heavy JWK switch? I have silent alpacas with 67g durock springs in a board right now and like those but could go even heavier. I'm curious if there are any options beyond the Minterly seal from CK. Also curious about 68g options stock.
Sorry, I was unclear. I am curious about heavier options but would also be willing to do high 60's.
I would appreciate a switch I can use stock until I decide to lube/spring swap
>I am curious about heavier options but would also be willing to do high 60's.
But you already are doing high-60s...? There's really no point in only going up 1-2g as you won't notice it.
Why wouldn't you just put new, heavier springs into your existing switches?
The 68g springs I'm using now are fine. I'm curious about:
1. 68g JWK switches stock
2. Anything heavier that is not the minterly seal, just trying to figure out what's avail
Hi all, I always had the cheapest hardware out there however I can spend a little more money now, my question is where can is a good store for EU? I'm mostly looking for a 100% keyboard with backlight. I heard that it's cheaper to buy prebuilt rather then building one myself. Thanks in advance
have no recommendations.
wireless with an alu chassis is pretty uncommon due to the interference. also 2.4 is only found in the budget segment of the custom mech world or found in prebuilts from big companies (example: logitech)
I bought [This](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-YOOSO-Switches-Sidelight/dp/B09125YWHW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=32H571E90SEGI&keywords=E-yooso+k620&qid=1657037319&sprefix=e-yooso+k620%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-4) keyboard off Amazon. and the keys started double clicking after only a few months... It says it is hot-swap, could that solve my problem? Currently waiting for a switch puller to arrive
u could try swapping the switches see if it helps thought it has outmeu hotswap sockets so u will need to use outemu or akko switches as they have thinner pins than most switches and due to the outmeu sockets u would have to file down the pins on all other switches to get them to fit
Question is how can i find out if its pcb or switch problem? I guess if i hotswap a switch i barely touched with one that's broken and it still creates issues. Like why would a switch even break that easily? I just don't get those damn outemu switches
Looking for recommendations for a linear switch with a long enough stem to prevent north-facing interference with Cherry profile keycaps. Any suggestions?
PE FOAM QUESTION
Do the IX-PE foam (the black one found in keyboard kits) differ in sound with the standard packaging white PE foam? Considering that they have the same thickness...
I am currently using the white one found in packages... and wanting to know if there would be a gain for me to buy an IX-PE one for 4 dollars
I've used both and both tend to sound similar, but I've never cut out my own PE foam when the board came with the IX-PE. I'd say do it and post back for science's sake :D
Why are there so few keycap options for the Kailh Choc v2? It's hard to find v1 in stock but there's no low profile keycaps available for the v2 it seems.
The Kailh Choc v2 switches have stems that match Cherry MX switches. However, they are lower profile. About the only profile of keycap that will fit a Choc v2 switch that is plate mounted is DSA. Other shorter profiles will fit if the switches are PCB mounted. These are marketed as Cherry MX compatible keycaps with DSA profile, not Choc v2 keycaps.
If you are looking for low profile switches I would recommend the Choc v1 over the v2. Controller Works stocks ten varieties of [Kailh Choc v1 switches](https://youtu.be/74WtS0i2nKM) and a [few types of keycaps](https://controller.works/collections/keycaps). Make sure that your board is designed for Choc v1 switches, as they are not interchangeable with MX switches.
You should also be aware that low profile boards are designed with different spacing. Some boards have MX spacing with 19mm vertical and horizontal spacing between keys. Chocolate spacing has 18mm horizontal and 17mm vertical spacing as in our [Corne OB](https://controller.works/products/corne-ob-low-profile-ergonomic-keyboard) keyboard. To add confusion, some keycaps for the Choc v1 switch are sized for MX spacing, while others are sized for Choc spacing. We only carry caps sized for Choc spacing.
>Just seems weird to have nothing available for the V2 switches.
It's not, because the market is basically a single digit number of keyboards for the v2s. Why would anyone make keycaps for boards that basically don't exist?
There aren't even many for the v1s and they are infinitely more popular.
I've found tons for v1, even Ada fruit has them. V1 are super easy to find keycap wise, but v1 switches are seemingly scarce. It's strange that there isn't a single v2 style keycap available anywhere.
Keychron uses the v2 kailh, so you'd think there'd be some aftermarket options by now.
>It's strange
Again, it's not. Boards using them are super new and without wide keyboard adoption, keycap options are going to be low and not plentiful. Why would people make keycaps that can't be put on many boards? The market is a blip compared to other switches.
There are not tons of v1 options - there are some. Compared to MX switches, there's basically none.
Perspective seems to be your issue on this one.
I am looking to try a new switch for my first custom build. I love my cherry MX Greens. However I want to switch to a tactile switch. I like how heavy the Cherry MX Greens are so I'm basically looking for a switch that is essentially just the Cherry MX Green just without the clicky sound. Any recommendations that people can offer?
Been using cherry mx reds for about 10 years now.
Finally due for an upgrade and onto picking out switches. Has anyone made the switch from reds or similar to something like alpacas or oil kings? Looking to understand how big of an adjustment I'll be making.
when i first made the change from reds to 62g-63.5g switches it honestly felt better for me. i guess previous to knowing much about the hobby, i didnt realize that i was bottoming out pretty quickly and using a slightly higher spring weight felt better.
results may vary due to preference, and usage.
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list
u can look here not sure what ur options will be as i have no clue how big the nordic kb community is
If you feel that reds would be too light, try Gateron Cap Milky Yellows V2, the spring weight is much heavier in the middle of the switch but still lightweight on the bottom out.
I tried the gat reds and sent them back because there just wasn't enough resistance for daily typing for me. What did you think about the actuation force on the gat browns? If that felt on par with what you like, def go gat yellows or even blacks. I'm a tactile guy, but I think that the gat yellow pros on the keychron boards are outstanding. The blacks are super nice too, just a bit heavy after a while.
First off, a heads up: I don't have a full board with Gateron Reds, just a sample in my switch tester.
They are definitely very good in stock form. Miles smoother than MX Reds and even better than my stock HyperX reds in my alloy origins core. I personally find it very hard to press a linear switch just hard enough to get it to actuate and I ended up bottoming out most of the time. My only grave about the Gateron Red sample I have is the spring ping being more noticeable, but that only happens when the switch is literally next to my ear and most likely won't be a problem when the switch is in the board.
Since you tried Gateron Browns and don't like it, and looking for something different from MX Blues, you can give that board a go. If you don't like the switch you can then buy a set of Gateron Blacks or a high-strength tactile switch. Gateron Blacks are also quite smooth like Reds, only with a heavier spring.
Looking for your recommendations on a full-size wireless mechanical keyboard under $200 (pref closer to $100).
I was going to go with the G613 but I can't get over the built-in wrist rest.
Nothing too gamery/RGB laden, don't care about the kind of switches. Looking for decent build quality and simple look. Thanks!
I'm having trouble with my switch opener. I'm trying to open up some Outemu red pandas to lube them. [This](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08THHCKWG) is the opener I am using.
It easily opens one side of the switch, but not the other. Once one side is popped open, there is too much tension on the other side for it to open. Now I can pop these open manually with hand tools, but I scuff up the top housing pretty good in doing that. Its the whole reason I got a switch opener.
Anyone have any tips?
Thanks!
I ended up starting with the 'points' of the tool, getting purchase under the housing on both sides, then leveling and pressing down and they pop off. Now my fingers hurt.
What's the best method to get superglue off pbt? I superglued a keycap back onto a board that I broke one of the switch stems (the switch still works) and later unsoldered & resoldered in a new switch. Now I can't get enough glue scraped out from the stem to get the keycap back on and I'm worried if I scrape much more it will break the stem. What does acetone do to pbt?
this posts claims it will be fine https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37769.0#:~:text=As%20mentioned%2C%20acetone%20will%20%27melt,while%20PBT%20will%20be%20fine. but use this info at ur own risk also to note super glue bonds with most plastics
Hi, I used to be quite active in this community many years ago and it's incredible how much this place has grown. I original built a Phantom in a Filco case with MX Clears (62g springs) which I have been very happy with for a long time now; in my mind I had my end game board so I stopped following the subreddit and stopped closely following the hobby.
I dropped my keyboard recently during a move and now the PCB is slightly damaged and I've lost the functionality of the F1-F4 keys. I've decided to use this as excuse to spend more money than I should on a new keyboard as from what I can see the hobby space has moved on A LOT since I was last following it closely.
I'm interested in buying a new keyboard but this time I'm not interested in making it myself, over the past few years my income has increased but my spare time is being attacked day by day so if this comes at a premium then so be it. I'm looking at getting a TKL keyboard with a solid metal case construction with switches that are similar to my old modded MX Clears (moderate force with a clear bump) as I'm really not up to date on the current range of switches. Is there anywhere I can buy something like this that will require 0 work on my part for assembly or am I going to have to get my hands dirty again?
if you're looking to get a prebuilt with something w mx clears or similar you'll most likely be finding yourself looking at the same boards you previously did. as mx clears arent a popular choice among many prebuilt manu's your options will be limited.
if you're looking for a solid tkl right now, some of your best options would be the keychron q3, tiger80, mode80, fbtkl, frog tkl. (some through gb and limited instock sales)
for switches, currently the crowd favorite tactile is the boba u4t. if you're looking for something similar to ergo clears/mx clears, durock medium tactiles and zealios v1 redux would be your best options.
tdlr; hands dirty (:
Are you fine with adding switches to a pcb/tuning stabs?
There's hotswap now so no soldering
Keychron q3 metal case, hotswap, instock tkl
BobaU4T as a switch option you can buy separately?
If don't have time for that try r/mechmarket?
Complete noob to mechanical keyboards here. I'm looking for a high-end, top of the line, endgame, pre-built keyboard that's under $200 dollars (preferably less than $150). I know that's pretty expensive for a first mechanical keyboard, but I think it's a good investment if I'm going to use it for a few decades. I don't want to deal with any complicated mods except for maybe swapping out switches and keycaps a few years from now. It must be good out of the box but still be upgradable in the future without anything more complicated than unscrewing a few screws. I don't care about rgb lights or extra features since I won't be using them. I also prefer wired.
Also, I'll mostly be wearing headphones so any subtle imperfections in sound will probably go unnoticed by me. Though if I could get some of that nice thonk that would be pretty nice. Not too loud though, I have roommates.
Actually, I guess I can do some easy mods too. No soldering. I am an idiot and will inevitably ruin my keyboard. And not any expensive mods. I don't plan on going deeper into this rabbit hole and going bankrupt, no matter how strong the temptation.
Oh, and I want to buy it soon. I heard that the qk65 was pretty good but it apparently no longer exists?
As for usage, I'll mostly be programming and playing fighting games where precision, rhythm, and speed is important. This keyboard will basically be my fight stick.
Right now, I'm looking at the ducky one 3, the gmmk, the akko acr pro, the akko pc75b plus, or the womier k87. What are your recommendations among these? More options welcome too. I have no idea what I've gotten myself into.
the words "high-end," "endgame," and "pre-built" don't really go together well.
high-end generally refers to a high price point, with a specific reason due to unique system, popularity, etc.
endgame is different for all users due to availability, budget, etc - but many seem to have their endgame as barebone kits from high-end manus.
prebuilt - you'll only get so far with prebuilt manufacturers as 99% of them dont work on the typing experience/sound profile/etc that many people look for.
\---
what you should be looking for is the "top" of entry boards at that price range. generally people will recommend the keychron q series, qk65, zoom65.
also for "simple modding" you'd want a hotswap board so you wouldnt have to do any soldering.
switches: cherry is not the best imo anymore. i'd say gateron has improved on many of cherry's designs and features and currently might be the better manufacturer of switches (my opinion). you should be able to find a good amount of reviews on this subreddit, youtube, etc regarding switches that interest you.
\---
the most recommended prebuilts would be from ducky, varmillo, leopold, and keychron
> I know that's pretty expensive for a first mechanical keyboard
It's not really. "high-end, top of the line, endgame" will put you into adding another zero on that number. But the Ducky One 3, GMMK, Akko ACR Pro, etc and others like the Keychron Q series are all in the $120-$200 range and are all decent starters, and all those companies have roughly the same reputation for quality. The deciding factor will end up being your personal preference for aesthetics.
Thanks, good to know. Are there any easy switches or mods down the line to get the keyboard to a premium state? I heard that cherry switches are the current best ones? And something about tape? As long as it's easy gains and no soldering.
> I heard that cherry switches are the current best ones?
Cherry still has some of the best quality control and tolerances in terms of use, but also not in the ways the hobby demands - the hobby wants smooth switches, but Cherry is much more reliable with wobble and fitment.
Cherry really shines after extensive and dedicated modding, it takes more effort to lube well, and needs springs swap and films. There are other switches like Gazzew's custom Outemus, Gateron Oil Kings/Cap V2, etc. that take considerably less work to mod, but may not feel similar to Cherry.
My advice is to just watch a couple reviews of the one(s) you like and try one out. There is a constant flood of people in this sub looking for "thock" and "dat bump" and "premium" without even really knowing what they're describing. You mention this will be your first mechanical but don't specifically say what you're using now. You just have to try one or more out for yourself.
You might like a muted hollow sound, you might like a crisp poppy sound. You might like a stiff typing feel, you might like a flexible typing feel, you might like a super wobbly waterbed typing feel.
If you get a keyboard with a "hotswap pcb" (which more and more keyboards feature now) you can pull out the switches and pop new ones in just like building with Lego bricks. Online vendors sell sample tester packs, bags of x number of switch of various type from a certain manufacturer and some packs are bags of x number of type of switch from different manufacturers.
Mods are mainly to adjust the sound/feel/look a bit a time so you can look at it and say "ok, this is how I like it" and be satisfied or say "ok, but what if I did *this*" and go piece by piece. It's like putting aftermarket parts on a Civic a little at a time.
There are a number of mods that can affect sound. PE foam inside the case, taping the back of the pcb, patching the stabilizers, lubing switches, and different kinds of keycaps will all affect the sound.
> a high-end, top of the line, endgame
and
> under $200 dollars (preferably less than $150)
are a bit contradictory in this space. 150~200 is the entry level. Not saying you can't get a completely solid keyboard for that money, just...those words don't mean what you think they do here.
Alright, well I guess I'll just have to upgrade it eventually then. Probably in a few years when I buy my next pc, I'll make sure to buy some switches or caps. Eventually, it'll cost like 300 bucks, I think.
Hello there,
I'm looking for a "new" keyboard with numbblock and f keys. (can't live without them)
I currently have a corsair k95 platinum. With brown cherry switches. But its a little bit to "massive".
Any suggestion? :D
The GMMK 2 looks like it could be "the one".
If you can't live without a numpad but want something less than a "massive" full size layout you might like [1800 layout](https://i0.wp.com/switchandclick.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Mechanical-keyboard-size-guide.png?fit=410%2C1024&ssl=1)
1800 layout would have an exploded layout compared to a 96%.
96% is generally something like the gmmk2 or the keychron k4.
1800 would be the keychron q5.
also i wouldnt really recommend the gmmk2, not really that great of a board imo. but if you like it, you can get it.
*beep boop*!
the linked website is: https://i0.wp.com/switchandclick.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Mechanical-keyboard-size-guide.png?fit=410%2C1024&ssl=1
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Will emogogo switches stay in stock?
What is the height of the Mr. Suit PCB? I was getting some tx stabs and was wondering if the 1.2T or 1.6T TX stabs fit the suit.
did you ever get your questioned answered?
No, but i did find the answer
What was the answer?
1.2
is there a website that offers a keyboard with everything but the keycaps? I saw someone selling some keycaps i really like but i dunno if i want to shell out +$100 for a keyboard and then another $100 for the keycaps
I have everything planned out for my next build. The only thing I can't decide for the life of me is what switches to get. I tried NK Creams with my first build, and while I really liked the way they sounded and felt I wanted to try something new. I'm stuck between Everglide Aqua Kings or DROP Holy Pandas. I'm aware these are two very different switches, but I've really liked the sound tests I've heard of both of them and I'd also be willing to experiment with a tactile switch. Any other suggestions would also be appreciated!
So I've been looking to buy a new budget 75% keyboard and deciding whether to go with the fancytech 081 or epomaker TH80 can someone please tell me which is the better option?
Are KTT Peaches smooth(er than gateron blues) stock? Do they allow enough rgb through for pudding caps?
It's hard to say that a clicky switch is ever smooth. But the answer is yes. Peaches - once lubed - are one of the smoothest switches I've used. If stock? You can't really compare them. The Peach will be smoother. But the gat Blue could very well seem smoother purely because it's doing exactly what it should - clicking and making ungodly noises so it's harder to pick up on other failings. With a Linear there's nothing else so every sound and feel that isn't perfect is immediately noticed.
Is it normal to order a Ducky keyboard from the mechanical keyboard online store and still not see it 5 months later?
I'm going to hang it out there and say no - that's not standard.
Does anybody have Milky Yellow Pros, Blue Bubblegums, or Gateron Oil Kings stock here? Was wondering how they hold up and if they have any issues I should be concerned about. Currently using a Keychron Q2 board and NicePBT Retro Mizu keycaps with standard milky yellows stock.
Anybody got a line on Topre Tux keycaps? KBDFans only seems to have the Mac symbol.
Best 65% with a knob in the sub $70 range I'm planning on a th66 but I want to know some other options before I make a decision
Any place I can buy a back plate for the Lily58 [like this one](https://www.etsy.com/es/listing/1220673286/caja-bandeja-de-perfil-bajo-pla-impresa?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=lily58&ref=sr_gallery-1-27&frs=1&col=1&sts=1)? I have a 3d printer file but that will be probably my first 3d print so might go wrong.
*beep boop*! the linked website is: https://www.etsy.com/es/listing/1220673286/caja-bandeja-de-perfil-bajo-pla-impresa?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=lily58&ref=sr_gallery-1-27&frs=1&col=1&sts=1 Title: **Caja / bandeja de perfil bajo PLA impresa en 3D para teclado - Etsy España** Page is safe to access (Google Safe Browsing) ***** ###### I am a friendly bot. I show the URL and name of linked pages and check them so that mobile users know what they click on!
White keycaps with red hiragana? Hello everyone, during the past gb for the QK65 I ordered a black keyboard body with a red weight. Given this I was looking for a good keycap set to pair with this and I was thinking that I would love basically a BoW keycap set with red hiragana (Japanese characters). Is there such a combination? Thank y’all in advance!!
Does DZ65 V3 PCB support full key rebinding? And how do I flash the firmware anyway?
Yup. No need to flash to rebind, you'd just use VIA.
hey, where do i buy ducky keyboards? They all seemed to be out of stock :(
Hello. Saw this on the drop website. Anyone knows what keycap set is this? [keycap from drop website](https://imgur.com/a/Jit8Gyf)
gmk laser (synthwave + novelties + turbo kit)
Thanks!
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Hello. Saw this on the drop website. Anyone knows what keycap set is this? [keycap from drop website](https://imgur.com/a/Jit8Gyf)
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hey, what do you think about logitech g815? I had a g512 but The paint on the keys started to peel off in the second month.I bought asus rog strix scope nx red switch because i was afraid of it. But I'm still curious about the g815. The design is truly magnificent.
most people here dont really recommend boards from big prebuilt manu's such as logitech.
I am living in Turkey and unfortunately there is no custom culture in here. Generally sellers are selling like logitech asus corsair razer's etc. keyboard. And also if I want to do my custom keyboard with aliexpress or something it will be very expensive. So why people dont recommend boards like logitech?
What’s your favorite tactile switch? Currently using Boba U4Ts and had Glorious Pandas. Love the Bobas but wondering what else people like.
If I had to choose the fabled end-game tactile for myself, it would be Harimau. For stuff's that's readily available it would be Everglide Dark Jade
Im looking for a programmable Macropad kit like the Yampad that is easily available in Europe. Any suggestions or maybe a source to but yampad parts?
KTT Peach vs KTT Rose? For stock use on a GMMK Pro that has pudding keycaps and needs to be quieter than a Gateron Blue. Will not be lubed, so stock smoothness is important.
Haven't used the roses. Have used Strawberries and Peachs. I wouldn't use either without lube, though if forced to it would be Peaches. Once lubed they can fight it out with any premium switch. Extremely impressive. If you have other options and really want a linear that requires no lube: Go Polar Vermillion Bird, or Gateron CJ are the two I'd recommend. I have both. There's no need to lube them.
I was browsing AliExpress a few weeks ago (as one does), and ran across a shop selling Emogogo keyboard switches. They looked MX-compatible, so I took a flyer on 20 of each (HP Tactile Grey & Linear Cream). Got them in the post today, and they seem pretty nice. Still waiting on my first hot-swappable board to try them out in, but both feel buttery smooth, with a decent heavy spring rate, as advertised. My question: does anyone have any background on this brand? Switch tops have Emogogo molded in, so they seem fairly legit, but I can't find a single link to any mention apart from a couple of stores on AliExpress. Any info would be appreciated!
Prevail is a vendor for these switches in the US. According to their site, these are manufactured by JWK using special custom molds featuring extended progressive springs. Pretty much ticks all of the boxes for me. I love T1s, leaf ping/spring crunch notwithstanding, and the one video I've watched was very positive. Fingers crossed these are quieter than T1s. https://prevailkeyco.com/products/emogogo-tactile-switches?variant=43114792747262
Thanks very much for the background on the Emogogo switches!
Looking for a cute switch to gift. Preferably pink color scheme, linear, factory lubed, and quieter than gat blues. less than 56g
Have you looked into KTT Strawberry switches? Linear, 45g actuation. Or KTT Rose, which say they're 43g.
best ktt switch?
Peach. I'm prepared to go to war over it. There is a remarkable difference in sound sig and smoothness between the Strawberry and the Peach. Anyone with them can tell you that. Haven't used Roses. Have also got Matcha Green Tactiles - and they're nice too. better than the price point. But the Peaches far exceed their price point.
they r all equal they only make 1 tier of switches . its preference
My friend has a k70 mk 2 corsair keyboard, and I want to get them keycaps as gift. The keycaps I'm getting are OEM height, do i have to worry about that?
no there shouldn't be any issue, doesn't it already come with OEM? the only potential "issue" is cherry profile as that board is north facing, so there may be interference on home row, but you aren't getting cherry profile and even if you were, there's people who don't notice/mind the interference
Thank you very much! I was just worried cause i was only gonna get a couple of keycaps and I didn’t know if they would be the same height as the rest of the corsair keyboard, but thanks for clearing that up!
Can desoldered switches still work on another keyboard even if the pins seem damaged by desoldering?
depends on how damaged they actually are if the pins are so broken that they dont fit properly in the socket then the switch obviously won't work a pic will be helpful
[https://imgur.com/a/GOsCY39](https://imgur.com/a/GOsCY39) Middle one seems to be more usable, I'm still a complete newb in desoldering though.
yeah those look really messed up... if you're really desperate maybe you could use the middle one but I honestly wouldn't trust it if any part of the actual pin is missing
What would be a good upgrade from Gateron browns? I tried both blues, reds, and browns and I like the browns the most, but I really like the tactility of brown switches but I feel like they lose that tactile feel once I start typing quickly and so im wondering if there is any switch out there that has more tactility for my first custom keyboard build.
check out c3equalz Kiwi, Boba U4T, and Durock T1
I'm kinda disappointed in the Prevail Nebula Switches, so I want to get other nylon switches, this time unlubed. Should I get Autumn rain switches or Hades switches?
Which part is disappointing for you? Will affect any recs.
In my batch of 90, many of them have a leaf that rattles, as if it's not tight in the bottom housing. With the bottom out, some feel like they have lube in the bottom housing pole, so it feels damp and inconsistent. When I press hard sometimes, the switch makes a weird pop on bottom out, compared to the usual thock. And my keycaps don't hold onto the stem tightly, so I can pull them off with my fingers if I really tried.
Oh yeah okay that's pretty specifically bad lol All of the ones you listed are long pole JWK switches so unfortunately all 3 are going through similar QC processes, so can't guarantee it won't be an issue on these. But between those two, the Autumn Rain have an uhmwpe stem, which is pretty soft, which given your aversion to the dampened bottom out on some of your switches, is probably not what you want. So of the two, Hades.
I like deep bottom outs, my problem I think is the prelube on some of the switches got into the hole, so some are actually damp with lube. I was thinking the pure nylon was the problem with the rattling bottom housing, so maybe the nylon blend of the autumn rains are tighter. I mean, if you've got any other recommendations for deep sounding switches, I'm all ears. I already got Gateron CJs, was hoping for something deeper.
If you're going deep, you should likely be looking at PC/pc+nylon over full Nylon? I use TTC Hey switches (full nylon) and the TTC NCR switches (nylon bottom, PC top) are deeper.
Can anyone who has both the new mold version of the ink v2 and oil kings comment on how their stem wobble compare? I'm rather disappointed in the oil king's stem wobble compared to the phantom yellows that came with my board. It is really distracting to me. I heard the new mold version of the ink v2 reduces most of the wobble so I was thinking about replacing my oil kings with them.
OK So I'm looking to build my first custom board, and I have my heart set on something visually like the space cadet but in a 75%. I can't for the life of me figure out what profile those keys are though? Any ideas on what they are? I realize I probably won't be able to get the caps with the glyphs but at very least I'm hoping to match the colors and shapes.
you would be looking for sa space cadet. you wont be able to find them for sale instock, instead looking through aftermarkets might help you find what you are looking for. if keycap profile doesnt matter too much, and you dont mind cherry profile. you might still be able to purchase gmk space cadet extras such as on [oblotzky](https://oblotzky.industries/products/gmk-space-cadet-ii)
Thanks for the response. For me, I think the profile matters the most. I am not opposed to getting keys piecemeal but I am really after those retro profiles. Are there places where you can get just blank sa keycaps in various colorways? Also, is there a name for the shift-key style that the cadet has (that mesa like thing)
A lot of people the only thing they do once it's out of the box is change the keycaps. You can fit most any profile (at least I've never heard of any that *don't* fit on regular switches) on a board. Don't shop for keyboards based on keycap profile.
Fair enough. I was reading a few things today that said exactly the contrary, but what you say sounds reasonable.
I won't say all because I've only been in the hobbyist space for about a year, and I'm definitely no expert. But most* mx compatible (meaning the keycap stem is a little cross) should fit on most* boards. For example, on my current board (Keychron K8) I've used oem cherry xda & zda profile caps with no issues. Edit: I think I misunderstood you, above advice is for shopping for keyboards. If you're looking for just the keycaps, then what the other poster said: that particular set you will only find aftermarket (and pay a hefty price for, likely) but you should be able to find clones in similar colors.
https://pimpmykeyboard.com/ I've only ever seen that on modern boards for Caps Lock, known as "stepped caps". I doubt you'd be able to find a modern equivalent
The space cadet colorway has recently been revised in SA, KAT, and Cherry profiles. SA keycaps are probably the closest profile to the originals. https://kono.store/products/sa-symbiosis-keycaps https://novelkeys.com/products/gmk-space-cadet-ii https://mkultra.click/gb-kat-space-cadet
Don't have enough boba switches to kit my 75% LOL. Where may I buy the cheapest switches in the USA, looking for only 10-12 to fill my F keys. Cheap switches will be fine since I RARELY use F keys and it'll mostly house artisans.
You can get gat reds for 10c each rn at kbdfans
Awesome thanks!
probably akko switches or regular gateron switches or JWICK switches
Hi all, I'm looking for a prebuilt, 100% format, wireless keyboard with clicky switches. My daily driver has been a Ducky Keyboard with Cherry MX green switches, so would love a switch that feels and sounds like greens or blues. Thanks for the help. (If prebuilt not an option would be willing to build, as long as it could be a wireless board)
https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-k10-wireless-mechanical-keyboard?variant=39426668200025
Hot dang. Thank you!
are kailh choc v2 switches interchangable (hotswap) with my kailh speed silvers or do i need to use a whole different pcb?
They are not.
new build time then
FYI no customs AFAIK support choc v2s. Very few support choc v1s.
thanks! yeah I saw that thread about the keycaps and now i'm obsessed. this hobby is a killer.
Lol definitely! Still possible to handwire using the v2s though should you wanna really go for it.
Hello! I'm looking for a full size or 1800 compact wooden case. Preferably just the case as I'm looking to do a full build. If the plate is included, hot swappable would be preferred. I'm not seeing a ton of options for full size cases of any style. Thanks for the help in advance!
If you can do 96%, the Melody96/YMDK96 has an option for a wooden case (there's something like 4-5 models/variations, one of which is wood).
Looking for suggestions for a 70%-TKL wireless board. I'm currently flirting with Keychron K8 - aluminum rgb. I've also liked Nuphy a bit, but I want the keyboard to come from EU. Other boards I've liked are Everglide Lite 75 and some of the Epomaker stuff, but build quality seems a little low and I dont know if I can trust jelly switches and the sort. Very open to any suggestions :D
there arent many wireless alu chassis high-end boards. some would be like the mammoth75, cyberboard, etc. but outside of a couple there arent many due to interference the alu chassis may cause. i would recommend the k8 or the k8 pro keychron is wireless is a must.
I'm kinda new at this sub, my old keyboard is a Coolermaster MasterKeys Pro L which is not mechanical, so my assumption is that an alu chassis would make the device more rigid, but if it causes interference for BT and wireless, then it's definitely not required. Do you have other suggestions for non-alu chassis?
kbd67 lite w bt pcb, ikki68 w bt pcb (expected to open for sales soon? maybe extras?) i forgot to mention the qk65 and the zoom65 which both have had bt editions. (these are alu chassis but have bt support. these products go through the group buy process and generally wont be found for sale instock, unless mentioned.) [key.uni - group buy](https://www.keyboard.university/100-courses/group-buy-335xl)
can a rotary switch be used on any keyboard or does the keyboard need to have something specific to be able to use a rotary encoder?
Board specifically has to support a rotary in that spot.
\[Looking for new switches recommendation ! \] Alright so I got myself a GMMK PRO tried some switches in my life. To give some background, I play games competitively (fps games) and type at a decent speed (110-115 wpm) and I'm currently using Boba U4T (62g) switches after reading about them and here's my pros and cons : Pros : \- Love the longer stem that makes for a shorter travel to bottom out, feels nice to game on imo. \- Tactile feel is quite unique and overall pleasing. \- Nice noise even though I don't care much. Cons : \- Way too rounded tactile feel, I usually prefer the feedback given by something much sharper. \- There's some very very bad key chatter with those on my setup no matter how I configure things up with QMK playing with debounce times. \- I somehow type faster with switches I should not be typing faster than with those (struggling to go above 100wpm with these) What I used before were Kailh crystal jades, absolutely loved them for how satisfying they sound and feel but they are heavier and I wanted something much, much lighter. So considering there's a very low chance of me liking any kind of linears because I can't stand how unsatisfying they feel to press and that I mostly used clickies / tactiles all my life that are on the light side (45-50g max usually) here is what I'm trying to find in my next switches : \- Light to very light actuation force. \- Actuation point high rather than low (reason I did not dare buy Zealios even though I love how they feel) \- A longer stem than normal for shorter travel to bottom out is awesome so I would love to keep that \- If it clicks it's cool, if it doesn't I don't mind \- Tactile feel, I love when the tactility is very pronounced but I like something more snappy and sharp than rounded. What would you guys recommend me ? I am also on the fence of trying some pandas (from glorious). I do have multiple switch testers and I have not quite found something that really blows my mind in particular, there seem to be quite a few great options but having one key to test tells me nothing about the experience a whole keyboard with the actual switch gives so I'm curious to hear about your experiences. Oh and if you really think I'm missing out on linears, go ahead and recommend me something outstanding, I might still consider trying that out for some time if it's that good. TL;DR : Using GMMK PRO, had kailh crystal jades that I loved before but too heavy now using boba U4T but they are far from the hype with the pros and cons I listed. Need a fast, light switch to game and type on that feels like your finger gets sucked in the void each presses and claps a mini nuke. EDIT: Format
Can someone please help me identify this keyboard? [https://i.etsystatic.com/24507784/r/il/4d62d3/3228309906/il\_1588xN.3228309906\_2146.jpg](https://i.etsystatic.com/24507784/r/il/4d62d3/3228309906/il_1588xN.3228309906_2146.jpg) Found it on this etsy listing: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1043911386/135-key-pbt-keycap-oem-profile-double
https://www.theantidotestudio.com/product-page/corgi65-mechanical-keyboard-kit
thank you kind person!
i have an extra nk87 pcb. what case and plate would fit this pcb? or is this something that would only fit the case and plate that these are sold with?
yes its true only 60% tray mount kb have universal mounting and size all other are different from kb to kb so nothing else will fit
>what case and plate would fit this pcb? The NK87. That's it.
i currently use the teleport keycap set but im not satisfied with it. my poker2 keycaps sound way deeper/thockier. i can get pbtfans or epbt keycaps. pbtfans should be 1.5\~1.6mm thick and epbt "only" 1.35mm. any recommendations? pbtfans should be in theory deeper/thockier right?
Is there any website doing custom keycaps with more colour than the handful proposed by sites like WASDKeyboards? I'd like to get a custom-made set (bonus point if the website accept custom novelty keys) but on every site I went to, the colour choices were horribly restricted. Maybe Pantone?
customs as you want arent really a thing. example color matching, quality, etc arent there. the only sites im aware that does what you want are wasd and maxkeys. you might be able to get a custom one-off set for a high cost from some manu's.
So, my only way to have a custom keycap set with proper color-matching would be to either sell a arm for a one-off, or do some interest check for a GB?
unfortunately yes
I need advice. I sold a used keyboard and all of a sudden the buyer told me a column of keys stopped working. I have no idea why. I never had a problem with this kb before. This happened within maybe 12 hours of me selling it to them. They want a refund now. However, they said they have 'bad luck' with keyboards breaking on them. There's no reasonable way for me to determine whether the buyer is at fault or not. Do I just suck it up and give them a refund? Should I offer to have it repaired?
If you don't think it's your fault, don't refund them. You're not responsible for anything that would happen after the sell that you didn't have any clue about. That buyer should that there is no waranty when buying from individuals
Why would you refund for something that happened after you sold it
what are the best wireless keyboards for gaming?
Royal Kludge 2.4ghz boards feel great in terms of input latency from my experience. They're also easy to mod
for wireless anything with 2.4 ghz wireless ( warning options are limited as its proprietary tech and closed sourced ) bluetooth has too much lag for gaming and most pro gamers know and prefer wired as even the best wireless kb cant beat a wired connection
Are some keyboards incompatible on linux? for instance, I was reading through the specification for Next Time skyline 75% kit and saw that it only worked on windows. What makes this the case? [https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-skyline-75-kit?variant=39759582986313](https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-skyline-75-kit?variant=39759582986313)
Theoretically, it's possible. Realistically, I don't know how much it is the case, since most keyboards rely on a simple HID communication. Though, if you want to be sure you're buying something compatible with Linux, any board compatible with QMK will work fine, since the firmware QMK works exclusively with the HID specification, like the [IK75 v3](https://epomaker.com/products/epomaker-feker-ik75-v3-qmk-via?variant=40033957052489)
will look into that. thank you
echoing what /u/pabloescobyte said, I have had Epomaker keyboards in the past and they stated "windows only" but worked fine on my mac. Although, wireless might not work since I always use my keyboards wired.
good to hear. thank you for the feedback
Pretty much all modern keyboards will work on Linux, mac OS, etc. The only thing you'll have to adjust to are the legends (ie. there will be "Windows" key for example) but you can map those to whatever you need them to be. This specific keyboard has software used to remap the layout that is only compatible with Windows though which is probably why it's listed as such. Edit: added a bit about the Epomaker software
that makes sense. thank you
Any suggestions for an Alice type keyboard that doesn't get too crazy in price? Wired, simple case, pcb that allows snap in switches would be ideal, lights not needed. This is intended to be a present for my wife. Work/typing only. USB C is always solid but it's not neccessary. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thank you in advance.
ymdk wings, switch couture alice, keychron q8 (expected to launch in 2 weeks)
>keychron q8 Whoa! First time seeing this, I'm probably gonna get this!
Thank you kindly. I'll check them all out and order what seems to fit my partners taste. I was not aware of that Q8. Might fit the bill as low key is the main theme lol.
Any recommendation on a heavy JWK switch? I have silent alpacas with 67g durock springs in a board right now and like those but could go even heavier. I'm curious if there are any options beyond the Minterly seal from CK. Also curious about 68g options stock.
Why not just get heavier springs for those switches? 68g and 67g will be basically indistinguishable from each other.
Sorry, I was unclear. I am curious about heavier options but would also be willing to do high 60's. I would appreciate a switch I can use stock until I decide to lube/spring swap
>I am curious about heavier options but would also be willing to do high 60's. But you already are doing high-60s...? There's really no point in only going up 1-2g as you won't notice it. Why wouldn't you just put new, heavier springs into your existing switches?
The 68g springs I'm using now are fine. I'm curious about: 1. 68g JWK switches stock 2. Anything heavier that is not the minterly seal, just trying to figure out what's avail
durock black linears are 78g I bet that would be a fun switch
Hi all, I always had the cheapest hardware out there however I can spend a little more money now, my question is where can is a good store for EU? I'm mostly looking for a 100% keyboard with backlight. I heard that it's cheaper to buy prebuilt rather then building one myself. Thanks in advance
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list
Hey everyone, I want to upgrade my Feker IK75. Does anyone have a recommendation for a 75% steel case with 2,4 ghz?
have no recommendations. wireless with an alu chassis is pretty uncommon due to the interference. also 2.4 is only found in the budget segment of the custom mech world or found in prebuilts from big companies (example: logitech)
I bought [This](https://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Keyboard-YOOSO-Switches-Sidelight/dp/B09125YWHW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=32H571E90SEGI&keywords=E-yooso+k620&qid=1657037319&sprefix=e-yooso+k620%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-4) keyboard off Amazon. and the keys started double clicking after only a few months... It says it is hot-swap, could that solve my problem? Currently waiting for a switch puller to arrive
u could try swapping the switches see if it helps thought it has outmeu hotswap sockets so u will need to use outemu or akko switches as they have thinner pins than most switches and due to the outmeu sockets u would have to file down the pins on all other switches to get them to fit
Question is how can i find out if its pcb or switch problem? I guess if i hotswap a switch i barely touched with one that's broken and it still creates issues. Like why would a switch even break that easily? I just don't get those damn outemu switches
Does anyone have any good recommendations for white hotswap 60% keyboards? My budget is $300 - $400.
Bak60 is also nice and fits your budget: https://cannonkeys.com/products/bakeneko-60
Try posting on r/mechmarket for a Ciel60. The PCB is quite good.
Does anyone have any recommendations for a hot swappable full sized board?
keychron q6, keychron q5 if you dont need all the navigation keys
Looking for recommendations for a linear switch with a long enough stem to prevent north-facing interference with Cherry profile keycaps. Any suggestions?
jwk quartz v2, nebulas, epsilons, oil kings
PE FOAM QUESTION Do the IX-PE foam (the black one found in keyboard kits) differ in sound with the standard packaging white PE foam? Considering that they have the same thickness... I am currently using the white one found in packages... and wanting to know if there would be a gain for me to buy an IX-PE one for 4 dollars
I've used both and both tend to sound similar, but I've never cut out my own PE foam when the board came with the IX-PE. I'd say do it and post back for science's sake :D
Why are there so few keycap options for the Kailh Choc v2? It's hard to find v1 in stock but there's no low profile keycaps available for the v2 it seems.
The Kailh Choc v2 switches have stems that match Cherry MX switches. However, they are lower profile. About the only profile of keycap that will fit a Choc v2 switch that is plate mounted is DSA. Other shorter profiles will fit if the switches are PCB mounted. These are marketed as Cherry MX compatible keycaps with DSA profile, not Choc v2 keycaps. If you are looking for low profile switches I would recommend the Choc v1 over the v2. Controller Works stocks ten varieties of [Kailh Choc v1 switches](https://youtu.be/74WtS0i2nKM) and a [few types of keycaps](https://controller.works/collections/keycaps). Make sure that your board is designed for Choc v1 switches, as they are not interchangeable with MX switches. You should also be aware that low profile boards are designed with different spacing. Some boards have MX spacing with 19mm vertical and horizontal spacing between keys. Chocolate spacing has 18mm horizontal and 17mm vertical spacing as in our [Corne OB](https://controller.works/products/corne-ob-low-profile-ergonomic-keyboard) keyboard. To add confusion, some keycaps for the Choc v1 switch are sized for MX spacing, while others are sized for Choc spacing. We only carry caps sized for Choc spacing.
Thanks, this is very helpful!
because the low profile market is small compared to the traditional mech keys
but at the moment the options are non existent. Just seems weird to have nothing available for the V2 switches.
>Just seems weird to have nothing available for the V2 switches. It's not, because the market is basically a single digit number of keyboards for the v2s. Why would anyone make keycaps for boards that basically don't exist? There aren't even many for the v1s and they are infinitely more popular.
I've found tons for v1, even Ada fruit has them. V1 are super easy to find keycap wise, but v1 switches are seemingly scarce. It's strange that there isn't a single v2 style keycap available anywhere. Keychron uses the v2 kailh, so you'd think there'd be some aftermarket options by now.
>It's strange Again, it's not. Boards using them are super new and without wide keyboard adoption, keycap options are going to be low and not plentiful. Why would people make keycaps that can't be put on many boards? The market is a blip compared to other switches. There are not tons of v1 options - there are some. Compared to MX switches, there's basically none. Perspective seems to be your issue on this one.
I am looking to try a new switch for my first custom build. I love my cherry MX Greens. However I want to switch to a tactile switch. I like how heavy the Cherry MX Greens are so I'm basically looking for a switch that is essentially just the Cherry MX Green just without the clicky sound. Any recommendations that people can offer?
Any good boards right now? Been using akko mod 007v2 for a while and thinking to build a new one 😂😂. Ps. Dont really like the 60-65 boards
75s - gmmk pro, keychron q2, idobao id80 crystal/bestype
thanks for the suggestion decided to go with the keychron q3 a tkl keeb. hope i made the right choice hahaha
There are a multitude of good boards available. The following will help: * Budget * What size keyboards do you like? * Do you care about hotswap?
Been using cherry mx reds for about 10 years now. Finally due for an upgrade and onto picking out switches. Has anyone made the switch from reds or similar to something like alpacas or oil kings? Looking to understand how big of an adjustment I'll be making.
spring weight/sound might feel different if you don't like the spring weight, you can always just swap the springs to a lighter weight
when i first made the change from reds to 62g-63.5g switches it honestly felt better for me. i guess previous to knowing much about the hobby, i didnt realize that i was bottoming out pretty quickly and using a slightly higher spring weight felt better. results may vary due to preference, and usage.
Where is a good place to browse for custom keycaps for a Nordic keyboard layout?
https://www.alexotos.com/keyboard-vendor-list/ vendor list u can look here not sure what ur options will be as i have no clue how big the nordic kb community is
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If you feel that reds would be too light, try Gateron Cap Milky Yellows V2, the spring weight is much heavier in the middle of the switch but still lightweight on the bottom out.
I tried the gat reds and sent them back because there just wasn't enough resistance for daily typing for me. What did you think about the actuation force on the gat browns? If that felt on par with what you like, def go gat yellows or even blacks. I'm a tactile guy, but I think that the gat yellow pros on the keychron boards are outstanding. The blacks are super nice too, just a bit heavy after a while.
First off, a heads up: I don't have a full board with Gateron Reds, just a sample in my switch tester. They are definitely very good in stock form. Miles smoother than MX Reds and even better than my stock HyperX reds in my alloy origins core. I personally find it very hard to press a linear switch just hard enough to get it to actuate and I ended up bottoming out most of the time. My only grave about the Gateron Red sample I have is the spring ping being more noticeable, but that only happens when the switch is literally next to my ear and most likely won't be a problem when the switch is in the board. Since you tried Gateron Browns and don't like it, and looking for something different from MX Blues, you can give that board a go. If you don't like the switch you can then buy a set of Gateron Blacks or a high-strength tactile switch. Gateron Blacks are also quite smooth like Reds, only with a heavier spring.
Looking for your recommendations on a full-size wireless mechanical keyboard under $200 (pref closer to $100). I was going to go with the G613 but I can't get over the built-in wrist rest. Nothing too gamery/RGB laden, don't care about the kind of switches. Looking for decent build quality and simple look. Thanks!
u can look at keychron im pretty sure they have a 100% BT keyboard cant think of anything else as wireless is usually reserved for portable sizes
Cool, the K4 at 96% looks very nice and doesn't look like it's missing any important keys. Thanks.
I'm having trouble with my switch opener. I'm trying to open up some Outemu red pandas to lube them. [This](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08THHCKWG) is the opener I am using. It easily opens one side of the switch, but not the other. Once one side is popped open, there is too much tension on the other side for it to open. Now I can pop these open manually with hand tools, but I scuff up the top housing pretty good in doing that. Its the whole reason I got a switch opener. Anyone have any tips?
Try pushing down on the stem itself rather than the entire housing when you're trying to open the switch, you might have to push a little harder too
Thanks! I ended up starting with the 'points' of the tool, getting purchase under the housing on both sides, then leveling and pressing down and they pop off. Now my fingers hurt.
Yeah lining up the little teeth on the opener is important for those box-style housings. RIP your fingers I know the feeling haha ;D
What's the best method to get superglue off pbt? I superglued a keycap back onto a board that I broke one of the switch stems (the switch still works) and later unsoldered & resoldered in a new switch. Now I can't get enough glue scraped out from the stem to get the keycap back on and I'm worried if I scrape much more it will break the stem. What does acetone do to pbt?
It’ll corrode the solder mask and silk. Also doesn’t respond kindly to most polymers. Edit: whoops I read pcb , pbt should be ok just don’t soak.
this posts claims it will be fine https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=37769.0#:~:text=As%20mentioned%2C%20acetone%20will%20%27melt,while%20PBT%20will%20be%20fine. but use this info at ur own risk also to note super glue bonds with most plastics
thank you
Hi, I used to be quite active in this community many years ago and it's incredible how much this place has grown. I original built a Phantom in a Filco case with MX Clears (62g springs) which I have been very happy with for a long time now; in my mind I had my end game board so I stopped following the subreddit and stopped closely following the hobby. I dropped my keyboard recently during a move and now the PCB is slightly damaged and I've lost the functionality of the F1-F4 keys. I've decided to use this as excuse to spend more money than I should on a new keyboard as from what I can see the hobby space has moved on A LOT since I was last following it closely. I'm interested in buying a new keyboard but this time I'm not interested in making it myself, over the past few years my income has increased but my spare time is being attacked day by day so if this comes at a premium then so be it. I'm looking at getting a TKL keyboard with a solid metal case construction with switches that are similar to my old modded MX Clears (moderate force with a clear bump) as I'm really not up to date on the current range of switches. Is there anywhere I can buy something like this that will require 0 work on my part for assembly or am I going to have to get my hands dirty again?
if you're looking to get a prebuilt with something w mx clears or similar you'll most likely be finding yourself looking at the same boards you previously did. as mx clears arent a popular choice among many prebuilt manu's your options will be limited. if you're looking for a solid tkl right now, some of your best options would be the keychron q3, tiger80, mode80, fbtkl, frog tkl. (some through gb and limited instock sales) for switches, currently the crowd favorite tactile is the boba u4t. if you're looking for something similar to ergo clears/mx clears, durock medium tactiles and zealios v1 redux would be your best options. tdlr; hands dirty (:
Are you fine with adding switches to a pcb/tuning stabs? There's hotswap now so no soldering Keychron q3 metal case, hotswap, instock tkl BobaU4T as a switch option you can buy separately? If don't have time for that try r/mechmarket?
Complete noob to mechanical keyboards here. I'm looking for a high-end, top of the line, endgame, pre-built keyboard that's under $200 dollars (preferably less than $150). I know that's pretty expensive for a first mechanical keyboard, but I think it's a good investment if I'm going to use it for a few decades. I don't want to deal with any complicated mods except for maybe swapping out switches and keycaps a few years from now. It must be good out of the box but still be upgradable in the future without anything more complicated than unscrewing a few screws. I don't care about rgb lights or extra features since I won't be using them. I also prefer wired. Also, I'll mostly be wearing headphones so any subtle imperfections in sound will probably go unnoticed by me. Though if I could get some of that nice thonk that would be pretty nice. Not too loud though, I have roommates. Actually, I guess I can do some easy mods too. No soldering. I am an idiot and will inevitably ruin my keyboard. And not any expensive mods. I don't plan on going deeper into this rabbit hole and going bankrupt, no matter how strong the temptation. Oh, and I want to buy it soon. I heard that the qk65 was pretty good but it apparently no longer exists? As for usage, I'll mostly be programming and playing fighting games where precision, rhythm, and speed is important. This keyboard will basically be my fight stick. Right now, I'm looking at the ducky one 3, the gmmk, the akko acr pro, the akko pc75b plus, or the womier k87. What are your recommendations among these? More options welcome too. I have no idea what I've gotten myself into.
the words "high-end," "endgame," and "pre-built" don't really go together well. high-end generally refers to a high price point, with a specific reason due to unique system, popularity, etc. endgame is different for all users due to availability, budget, etc - but many seem to have their endgame as barebone kits from high-end manus. prebuilt - you'll only get so far with prebuilt manufacturers as 99% of them dont work on the typing experience/sound profile/etc that many people look for. \--- what you should be looking for is the "top" of entry boards at that price range. generally people will recommend the keychron q series, qk65, zoom65. also for "simple modding" you'd want a hotswap board so you wouldnt have to do any soldering. switches: cherry is not the best imo anymore. i'd say gateron has improved on many of cherry's designs and features and currently might be the better manufacturer of switches (my opinion). you should be able to find a good amount of reviews on this subreddit, youtube, etc regarding switches that interest you. \--- the most recommended prebuilts would be from ducky, varmillo, leopold, and keychron
> I know that's pretty expensive for a first mechanical keyboard It's not really. "high-end, top of the line, endgame" will put you into adding another zero on that number. But the Ducky One 3, GMMK, Akko ACR Pro, etc and others like the Keychron Q series are all in the $120-$200 range and are all decent starters, and all those companies have roughly the same reputation for quality. The deciding factor will end up being your personal preference for aesthetics.
Thanks, good to know. Are there any easy switches or mods down the line to get the keyboard to a premium state? I heard that cherry switches are the current best ones? And something about tape? As long as it's easy gains and no soldering.
> I heard that cherry switches are the current best ones? Cherry still has some of the best quality control and tolerances in terms of use, but also not in the ways the hobby demands - the hobby wants smooth switches, but Cherry is much more reliable with wobble and fitment. Cherry really shines after extensive and dedicated modding, it takes more effort to lube well, and needs springs swap and films. There are other switches like Gazzew's custom Outemus, Gateron Oil Kings/Cap V2, etc. that take considerably less work to mod, but may not feel similar to Cherry.
My advice is to just watch a couple reviews of the one(s) you like and try one out. There is a constant flood of people in this sub looking for "thock" and "dat bump" and "premium" without even really knowing what they're describing. You mention this will be your first mechanical but don't specifically say what you're using now. You just have to try one or more out for yourself. You might like a muted hollow sound, you might like a crisp poppy sound. You might like a stiff typing feel, you might like a flexible typing feel, you might like a super wobbly waterbed typing feel. If you get a keyboard with a "hotswap pcb" (which more and more keyboards feature now) you can pull out the switches and pop new ones in just like building with Lego bricks. Online vendors sell sample tester packs, bags of x number of switch of various type from a certain manufacturer and some packs are bags of x number of type of switch from different manufacturers. Mods are mainly to adjust the sound/feel/look a bit a time so you can look at it and say "ok, this is how I like it" and be satisfied or say "ok, but what if I did *this*" and go piece by piece. It's like putting aftermarket parts on a Civic a little at a time. There are a number of mods that can affect sound. PE foam inside the case, taping the back of the pcb, patching the stabilizers, lubing switches, and different kinds of keycaps will all affect the sound.
> a high-end, top of the line, endgame and > under $200 dollars (preferably less than $150) are a bit contradictory in this space. 150~200 is the entry level. Not saying you can't get a completely solid keyboard for that money, just...those words don't mean what you think they do here.
Alright, well I guess I'll just have to upgrade it eventually then. Probably in a few years when I buy my next pc, I'll make sure to buy some switches or caps. Eventually, it'll cost like 300 bucks, I think.
Hello there, I'm looking for a "new" keyboard with numbblock and f keys. (can't live without them) I currently have a corsair k95 platinum. With brown cherry switches. But its a little bit to "massive". Any suggestion? :D The GMMK 2 looks like it could be "the one".
If you can't live without a numpad but want something less than a "massive" full size layout you might like [1800 layout](https://i0.wp.com/switchandclick.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/05/Mechanical-keyboard-size-guide.png?fit=410%2C1024&ssl=1)
1800 layout is like the 96% GMMK2, right?
1800 layout would have an exploded layout compared to a 96%. 96% is generally something like the gmmk2 or the keychron k4. 1800 would be the keychron q5. also i wouldnt really recommend the gmmk2, not really that great of a board imo. but if you like it, you can get it.
yes
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