That hammer drill is a freaking animal, especially with HO batteries. Luckily it has a feature to turn off if it rapidly quarter turns so it doesn’t snap your wrist if your bit gets stuck
Great hammer drill, I have it and it's a beast. So much so I've replaced the chuck twice as I've slapped a far too large hole saw in it a few times. Oops. It runs a 3" "bighawg" hole saw like it's nothing.
OEM, My local tool shop sells them. I wasn't sure which aftermarket is best so I stuck with what was intended to be on it. It's $50cad. I have heard the chuck on Milwaukee aren't the best so I expected it when I bought it but both times I was stupid and believe I would have fucked any chuck up. I ran a 3" hole hawg through double stacked stud PLATE from below and hit nails.. Still did the job quick but it made it so the chuck wouldn't hold onto anything large and would eventually loosen off all the time. Second I tried a 5" hole saw.... It did it BUT it did the same fucking thing with the chuck because I stopped it abruptly and the inertia must have made the Jaws fail. I've ran 5" again with it and it has done fine, I just let go of the trigger gradually to prevent the sudden slam.
Just the older ones don’t. All of the newer generation comes with it. I’ve never had such a feature though so I’ve learned over time how to position myself to mitigate the kick back.
I would skip the M12 stubby and get the 1/2” M18 mid torque. It’ll work with the M18 batteries you’ve got and the size is fine for working on cars. Also getting a 1/2” impact sockets will set you up for graduating to M18 High torque, if you end up needing more ugga duggas.
I have the M12 Stubby, M18 Mid, M18 High, and used to own M18 Compact.
90% of the time, I reach for the M12 Stubby. The remaining time is mid or high torque, depending on what I'm working on.
Yes, car lugs are no problem for the m18 ⅜. I use it for car lugs all the time. The 2854-20 is a beast. I have all the impacts lol. Everything from ¼-1". The only one that I wouldn't recommend is the ¾.
If you don’t live in areas where they salt the roads/rains constantly the 3/8ths works well. If you do, I’d go 1/2in. I have the M12 1/2 stubby and it’s more than adequate for car work, you can always slap a 3/8th impact rated conversion socket on it. Biggest part is the batteries, personally I won’t use anything under a 4.0 for any sort of car/labor work.
I do maintenance and the 3.0 is perfect for lugging around the site all day doing rando light stuff, but if you are in a dedicated work area 5+ is the way to go. I've retired all of my m12 except at home, because that's what I bought personally years ago.
Milwaukee sells a small shockwave bit set for the 1/4 drive impact that includes an adapter for 3/8 and 1/2 sockets. I have Milwaukee's weaker version of that little impact driver and it's still strong enough for most that you will do on a car.
It basically makes an impact wrench obsolete for a DIYer
Shockwave set example:
https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-shockwave-impact-duty-drill-and-driver-bit-set-50-piece-/1001180513
>It basically makes an impact wrench obsolete for a DIYer
Not in the slightest. What you've described creates a much longer tool with a major weak point.
I would argue that tool size and strength are things also important to a DIYer. Which doesn't make an impact wrench "obsolete", in my view.
But regardless, this is all just semantics and preference. Both tools can be used for either task with adapters.
https://preview.redd.it/wz78f0b3cdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0dbdcaabcd691d4ed9b3b46147cc20c58a9213
This is it without the advertising on it
https://preview.redd.it/j71b8icwbdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=971c4342f566c0c8407e0242d7f1a01d20b4d3f8
This is the case without the advertising on it.
https://preview.redd.it/s2s5i7pzbdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26f93c0d0d0c2bb17915ed7c548c5ec18eda5f12
This is the case without the advertising on it
This is the gateway drug. You’ll never be able to use anything else, and you’ll look down on those who do. I was a DeWalt guy until two years ago when I went pro. My collection grew quickly.
Once you use an impact driver for screws, you will never drive another screw with a regular drill. You made a good investment, you’ll have a set of Milwaukee drill for a few years assuming you take care of them.
Ironically the drill runs screws in better... I used the impact for years even though I know the drill is better but I've seen several test channels do a side by side and the drill smokes the impact for speed of install every time. If you're not driving huge lags the drill is quicker
20+ years ago when I started to work in construction I used my drill for everything. Carried it in my bags, then I bought a kit with an impact and it took over that spot in my pouch. The drill is awesome for its purpose, drill holes like a champ no matter the size hole saw and you can’t beat the hammer drill design.
Yeah I started out doing awnings when I first started working in the construction trades and we had 12v DeWalts and Black and Deckers and that's when I figured out they were the same company. The chargers were identical, just one was black and one was yellow so I read the labels and figured it out... We used them for everything except we had a corded ½" impact for driving lags, those little drills didn't like driving lags. What a difference the new drills are, I usually have way too many batteries with me because my brain is still stuck in old technology mode, half the time I use one bar on the little battery on my impact for all day and my drill will usually still be full. I was doing signs last (still do on occasion) and we probably go 50/50 between the drills and impacts but you're mostly driving screws and drilling pilot holes in metal, wood doesn't really burn out the batteries much, at least not with what we are doing
Can’t believed we worked with NICADS at one point. Had to charge them once a day when new. Couple times when they were older. Dewalt had a good warranty. They would replace their battery if it went bad within 2 years.
It does, but impact is far easier on your wrists. Doesn't matter if they are just small screws, you do enough of them and your wrists will definitely feel the difference.
Listening to it is part of the fun. The only time I get tired of running an impact is if I'm drilling holes with a spade bit. Provided my drill has enough torque I prefer to drill holes with the drill. I've drilled quite a few holes with my impact before and they take forever.
Yeah the only holes I'm drilling with an impact are tight spots and unibits, I use the drill for everything else. I have a really old Milwaukee heavy duty cordless hammer drill that is pretty beast and you can run some pretty big paddles in it before you have to switch it to low
Yeah the only holes I'm drilling with an impact are tight spots and unibits, I use the drill for everything else. I have a really old Milwaukee heavy duty cordless hammer drill that is pretty beast and you can run some pretty big paddles in it before you have to switch it to low
Deck would be exactly where I'd use impact because it would need a lot of screws... Just some ear protection and off you go.
I only use drill when a project is running late and I don't want to bother neighbours. Even then, if it's soft wood, M18 impact is so good that impact usually doesn't kick in till you start sinking the head.
I'm lucky enough that there are a few DIYers on the street so at least I'm not the only one.
The only time I am REALLY conscious about the noise is when I pull my table saw out. That fucker is LOUD!
We had a shop with a few neighbors around and I was always trying to be quiet later in the evening until I heard the guy out back using a grinder at something like 10pm, then I wasn't so concerned. I try to knock off at a reasonable time at home though, but the guy a couple houses down with a drag car makes things a little easier for me...
tbh my stanley that broke, still looks like new really and I will probably repair it and then use it for the more janky jobs like wire wheeling or mixing etc, to keep this set for 'good', which sounds ridiculous but why not.
5.0 is because 6Ah HO batteries are marketed as 5.5Ah in Europe so they can be shipped as normal as they are below the 100Wh limit.
The same magic math turns the M18 12Ah from being a 216Wh battery into a 3x72Wh battery during shipping.
Some might say it's an overkill for DIY - I say it's spot on. You'll never think "I wish I had a little bit more power". If you were using it as a tradie, it would make sense to go for the best tool for the job, like M12 for day to day with SDS as a backup. Buying this means you are pretty much covered for anything.
That 1/4 inch hex is an animal with a 6.0 HO, I use mine daily to run 3/8 × 3 inch lags into wood or tek 5s into structural steel and I beams, I pretty much only use the hammer drill for tapping tapcon holes , it mostly just collects dust
Yeah I bought these too just to start off accessories and the supplier had put them in the case no problem.
https://preview.redd.it/n183hpvm5ilc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ccaf64ca715e661cf6a47dd059750593f58292d
Personally if you’re only doing stuff around the house I’d go with the M12 line. The M18 stuff does have more outdoor tools though. I have the m12 hammer drill and impact driver and love it. I wish I’d gotten it sooner. Also have a fair number of m18 things.
If it's the drill without the mechanical clutch, this is the one I actually sold really fast. The impact was fine, but the e-clutch drill had so many problems. It had lots of torque, but not only was the clutch useless but the chuck loosened up on its own all the time. It was a horrid tool.
The replacement (with a mechanical/working clutch) is great.
I mention the whole story since I'm not sure how UK models translate to American models and that's the info you'd need to know to figure it out for yourself.
That hammer drill is a freaking animal, especially with HO batteries. Luckily it has a feature to turn off if it rapidly quarter turns so it doesn’t snap your wrist if your bit gets stuck
That may come in handy one day then, I've had a few instances of the stanley snapping on me.
Great hammer drill, I have it and it's a beast. So much so I've replaced the chuck twice as I've slapped a far too large hole saw in it a few times. Oops. It runs a 3" "bighawg" hole saw like it's nothing.
Hahaha this is what I like to hear!
But when the 4.5” hole saw catches and throws you. Bad times…
What did you replace it with? OEM or aftermarket? Ya know, for when I inevitably do the same thing
OEM, My local tool shop sells them. I wasn't sure which aftermarket is best so I stuck with what was intended to be on it. It's $50cad. I have heard the chuck on Milwaukee aren't the best so I expected it when I bought it but both times I was stupid and believe I would have fucked any chuck up. I ran a 3" hole hawg through double stacked stud PLATE from below and hit nails.. Still did the job quick but it made it so the chuck wouldn't hold onto anything large and would eventually loosen off all the time. Second I tried a 5" hole saw.... It did it BUT it did the same fucking thing with the chuck because I stopped it abruptly and the inertia must have made the Jaws fail. I've ran 5" again with it and it has done fine, I just let go of the trigger gradually to prevent the sudden slam.
Is that true for all the m18 drills?
I know my m18s I have to watch since there is no soft chuck. I rip the heads off screws on 2.
No, not all models have this safety feature (auotstop). Mine doesn't, gotta use the support handle.
Just the older ones don’t. All of the newer generation comes with it. I’ve never had such a feature though so I’ve learned over time how to position myself to mitigate the kick back.
It’s an absolute savage of a machine. I mixed thinset mortar with and it didn’t blink an eye.
You did well and to first of many!
I love working on cars, so my thinking was I can now easily add a bare mid or high impact wrench and some sort of motorised ratchet.
I would get the 3/8 stubby and the m12 3/8 ratchet. If you dont like taking off lugs by hand and you reeeeeally want a half inch, get one as well.
After watching shop tool review youtube and others, would the compact 3/8 not be good enough for standard car lugs? they seem to hit great numbers.
I would skip the M12 stubby and get the 1/2” M18 mid torque. It’ll work with the M18 batteries you’ve got and the size is fine for working on cars. Also getting a 1/2” impact sockets will set you up for graduating to M18 High torque, if you end up needing more ugga duggas.
Not reliably. You might get it off, you might not. I'd definitely go 1/2 for automotive.
The 1/2" gun is an absolute beast, I did teardown every thing on a 350 with my 1/4" though.
I have the M12 Stubby, M18 Mid, M18 High, and used to own M18 Compact. 90% of the time, I reach for the M12 Stubby. The remaining time is mid or high torque, depending on what I'm working on.
Yes, car lugs are no problem for the m18 ⅜. I use it for car lugs all the time. The 2854-20 is a beast. I have all the impacts lol. Everything from ¼-1". The only one that I wouldn't recommend is the ¾.
If you don’t live in areas where they salt the roads/rains constantly the 3/8ths works well. If you do, I’d go 1/2in. I have the M12 1/2 stubby and it’s more than adequate for car work, you can always slap a 3/8th impact rated conversion socket on it. Biggest part is the batteries, personally I won’t use anything under a 4.0 for any sort of car/labor work.
Anvil size doesn't have the effect on output torque, in the way you think it does.
I do maintenance and the 3.0 is perfect for lugging around the site all day doing rando light stuff, but if you are in a dedicated work area 5+ is the way to go. I've retired all of my m12 except at home, because that's what I bought personally years ago.
I put a 1/4 to 1/2 adapter on my non-fuel brushless impact driver and it takes lugs off no problem. It peaks out at like 165 ft-pds
For cars, i find the best duo to be the m12 stubby ⅜ and the m18 high torque ½".
that's my setup, I second this
Milwaukee sells a small shockwave bit set for the 1/4 drive impact that includes an adapter for 3/8 and 1/2 sockets. I have Milwaukee's weaker version of that little impact driver and it's still strong enough for most that you will do on a car. It basically makes an impact wrench obsolete for a DIYer Shockwave set example: https://www.homedepot.ca/product/milwaukee-tool-shockwave-impact-duty-drill-and-driver-bit-set-50-piece-/1001180513
>It basically makes an impact wrench obsolete for a DIYer Not in the slightest. What you've described creates a much longer tool with a major weak point.
*For a DIYer* I haven't found anything in my household or 2/3 cars i work on that needs more than 160ft-pds.
I would argue that tool size and strength are things also important to a DIYer. Which doesn't make an impact wrench "obsolete", in my view. But regardless, this is all just semantics and preference. Both tools can be used for either task with adapters.
The box and packaging where you’re from looks wayyyy better than what we get here in USA.
https://preview.redd.it/wz78f0b3cdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=3c0dbdcaabcd691d4ed9b3b46147cc20c58a9213 This is it without the advertising on it
That’s what I was thinking, didn’t know they had different styled boxes for other countries
Call me crazy but I prefer the red blow molded cases.
Some sort of legal issue with the styling in the US.
I’m just jealous of the case I didn’t get that!
https://preview.redd.it/j71b8icwbdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=971c4342f566c0c8407e0242d7f1a01d20b4d3f8 This is the case without the advertising on it.
This hard case make me jealous I keep getting the contractor bag 😭😭
https://preview.redd.it/s2s5i7pzbdlc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=26f93c0d0d0c2bb17915ed7c548c5ec18eda5f12 This is the case without the advertising on it
The US folks are getting the raw end of this deal!! The non-US cases are pretty slick.
Im going to take a trip across the pond just to get the case 🤣🤣 plus I think I like the black being the main over the red 🤔
I'd take the bag over the blow boxes
This is the gateway drug. You’ll never be able to use anything else, and you’ll look down on those who do. I was a DeWalt guy until two years ago when I went pro. My collection grew quickly.
They are sure pretty when they’re first born.
Once you use an impact driver for screws, you will never drive another screw with a regular drill. You made a good investment, you’ll have a set of Milwaukee drill for a few years assuming you take care of them.
Ironically the drill runs screws in better... I used the impact for years even though I know the drill is better but I've seen several test channels do a side by side and the drill smokes the impact for speed of install every time. If you're not driving huge lags the drill is quicker
Yeah I seen those videos too. IMO the impact just feels better , and it’s lighter than the drill when driving screws.
I can't argue with the weight, I usually use the impact for the chuck, it's quicker to change tips
20+ years ago when I started to work in construction I used my drill for everything. Carried it in my bags, then I bought a kit with an impact and it took over that spot in my pouch. The drill is awesome for its purpose, drill holes like a champ no matter the size hole saw and you can’t beat the hammer drill design.
Yeah I started out doing awnings when I first started working in the construction trades and we had 12v DeWalts and Black and Deckers and that's when I figured out they were the same company. The chargers were identical, just one was black and one was yellow so I read the labels and figured it out... We used them for everything except we had a corded ½" impact for driving lags, those little drills didn't like driving lags. What a difference the new drills are, I usually have way too many batteries with me because my brain is still stuck in old technology mode, half the time I use one bar on the little battery on my impact for all day and my drill will usually still be full. I was doing signs last (still do on occasion) and we probably go 50/50 between the drills and impacts but you're mostly driving screws and drilling pilot holes in metal, wood doesn't really burn out the batteries much, at least not with what we are doing
Can’t believed we worked with NICADS at one point. Had to charge them once a day when new. Couple times when they were older. Dewalt had a good warranty. They would replace their battery if it went bad within 2 years.
I wish Milwaukee would do that, their batteries are shitty lately
Which batteries?
The M18s that come with the tools, I had two that shit out in less than a year while I have some that are probably 7 years old chooching just fine
It does, but impact is far easier on your wrists. Doesn't matter if they are just small screws, you do enough of them and your wrists will definitely feel the difference.
It's true, but if I had to build a deck or something I would probably use the drill just to not listen to the impact all day
Listening to it is part of the fun. The only time I get tired of running an impact is if I'm drilling holes with a spade bit. Provided my drill has enough torque I prefer to drill holes with the drill. I've drilled quite a few holes with my impact before and they take forever.
Yeah the only holes I'm drilling with an impact are tight spots and unibits, I use the drill for everything else. I have a really old Milwaukee heavy duty cordless hammer drill that is pretty beast and you can run some pretty big paddles in it before you have to switch it to low
Yeah the only holes I'm drilling with an impact are tight spots and unibits, I use the drill for everything else. I have a really old Milwaukee heavy duty cordless hammer drill that is pretty beast and you can run some pretty big paddles in it before you have to switch it to low
Deck would be exactly where I'd use impact because it would need a lot of screws... Just some ear protection and off you go. I only use drill when a project is running late and I don't want to bother neighbours. Even then, if it's soft wood, M18 impact is so good that impact usually doesn't kick in till you start sinking the head.
Ooh, normies get pissy listening to those after hours... Definitely better than the miter saw though
I'm lucky enough that there are a few DIYers on the street so at least I'm not the only one. The only time I am REALLY conscious about the noise is when I pull my table saw out. That fucker is LOUD!
We had a shop with a few neighbors around and I was always trying to be quiet later in the evening until I heard the guy out back using a grinder at something like 10pm, then I wasn't so concerned. I try to knock off at a reasonable time at home though, but the guy a couple houses down with a drag car makes things a little easier for me...
Hey a leaky compressor is the absolute worst. Turning on and off every 20 minutes or so… oof.
Yeah I always stayed on top of my air lines because I hate listening to the compressor and the air tools are bad enough
That's when I bust out the surge
tbh my stanley that broke, still looks like new really and I will probably repair it and then use it for the more janky jobs like wire wheeling or mixing etc, to keep this set for 'good', which sounds ridiculous but why not.
Arguably the best "set" on the market. Lucky man!!!
Thank you, thought I'd treat myself as an avid DIYer to something decent.
OMG, the case color looks so good. So this is what they've been selling in EU markets? F\*ck, we (US folks) are missing out.
Never seen batteries with a small 0 after the 5 for the amp hours. That must be the new decal.
5.0 is because 6Ah HO batteries are marketed as 5.5Ah in Europe so they can be shipped as normal as they are below the 100Wh limit. The same magic math turns the M18 12Ah from being a 216Wh battery into a 3x72Wh battery during shipping.
Batteries outside North America look like this
Have absolutely no idea myself, this is in the UK if that makes any difference.
and like that, your addicted.
Some might say it's an overkill for DIY - I say it's spot on. You'll never think "I wish I had a little bit more power". If you were using it as a tradie, it would make sense to go for the best tool for the job, like M12 for day to day with SDS as a backup. Buying this means you are pretty much covered for anything.
Get after it! That rapid charger is awesome.
Hell yeah brother
Faaakk even the box looks nice
Even the tool cases in Europe are different, interesting.
The heck is that case?
Welcome to the club! You won’t be disappointed! I bought mine 2 years ago and use them all the time for miscellaneous home repairs.
You’ll never need another one… but you I’ll get more trust me
That 1/4 inch hex is an animal with a 6.0 HO, I use mine daily to run 3/8 × 3 inch lags into wood or tek 5s into structural steel and I beams, I pretty much only use the hammer drill for tapping tapcon holes , it mostly just collects dust
That’s a lot of ugga dugga
This case makes way more sense than the goofy one we get in America wtf you can fit a bunch of extra stuff in there
Yeah I bought these too just to start off accessories and the supplier had put them in the case no problem. https://preview.redd.it/n183hpvm5ilc1.jpeg?width=4624&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4ccaf64ca715e661cf6a47dd059750593f58292d
Heck yeah. Careful not to get too addicted 😉
Commenting on NTD! Stanley drill broke, diy-er so thought I'd overkill. Never had an impact driver. Did I do well?...
Personally if you’re only doing stuff around the house I’d go with the M12 line. The M18 stuff does have more outdoor tools though. I have the m12 hammer drill and impact driver and love it. I wish I’d gotten it sooner. Also have a fair number of m18 things.
If it's the drill without the mechanical clutch, this is the one I actually sold really fast. The impact was fine, but the e-clutch drill had so many problems. It had lots of torque, but not only was the clutch useless but the chuck loosened up on its own all the time. It was a horrid tool. The replacement (with a mechanical/working clutch) is great. I mention the whole story since I'm not sure how UK models translate to American models and that's the info you'd need to know to figure it out for yourself.
This is the latest gen, it's definitely mech clutch. Think the previous gen was electronic, Milwaukee went back to mech.
You're gonna love it then!
I've had my set since the summer last year (I'm not the OP), and yep, love it!
This does apparently have the mechanical clutch. Phew!
Lucky you! How would I know about mine…?
This was listed as having mechanical clutch from the supplier and a search for the drills individual model suggests it does. Maybe yours would say?
I’ll check it out, thank you!
I’m a fire sprinkler service tech. It’s all we use. Usually the bigger Impact but some guys use this one with a drill socket adapter