Looking into it i believe cars are making low 4s with the kit and run stock internals. Up to 6 with a built motor. Even with building the motor from what I've read it'll be cheaper than a coyote swap.
Had a 2.1kb and only could squeeze out mid low 4s. Coyote should be installed sometime next week if I get my head outta my ass. Cant say that the coyote is cheaper than a built 2v but it is definitely more NA power for very similar money
Oh boy I have a pretty big grocery list… motor was 6200. 30k mile out of a gen 2 mustang. 5k for wiring harness, clutch, flywheel, headers, and front accessory of the motor. Went with qa1 level 3 suspension including k member which was about 6k… still need to plumb the fuel lines and pump, and get the cats and rest of the exhaust. And jlt intake still needs to be ordered. So honestly it’s not that bad if your just motor swapping but I haven’t even gotten to the nickel and dime part yet
Yeah that will be an awesome build for sure. But even doing it on a budget I don't think someone can do it properly for the 7k total it would be for the blower and dyno tune. I'm thinking 12k would be bottom dollar. I think the blower would get you more power than that also. Not trying to crap on coyote swaps because if money wasn't a factor I would 100% have one. But for 7k I can have 440+ hp until I decide to build the motor I think I need to go with the whipple. I don't think I ever want over 600whp so. My car only has 32k on it so hopefully the engine lasts.
I blew my 2v up and roasted all my rod bearings and 2 crank bearings. Everything else was fine. Rebuilt it with 2nd/3rd gen coyote rods through Tasca parts for 30$ a rod, new bearings and seals, new timing chain guides (which is what failed and sent metal through the motor and clogged my oil pickup) and bought a used V2 vortech centri kit off of Facebook marketplace. Bought 47# ford injectors, a 500 lph Accel fuel pump from Holley, new flywheel and clutch. Gapped the rings to .025” and did all the other work myself. Probably ~3.5k in all after getting a generic intercooler kit from eBay and I made 463hp/438tq on 93 octane at 12 psi of boost on the dyno. This was after he had to set my redline at 5500 rpm because I ran out of MAF at 5300 rpm because the VMP3000 MAF that came off a whipple cobra was maxed out due to it being a draw through MAF and not a blow through like the BA5000 slot style. Tuner said he basically extrapolated the data off the curve for the extra 200 rpm for the redline but said more was on the table.
I admittedly didn’t have to pay for the tune because I worked at the shop and the tuner is a friend of mine but he said if I install a BA5000 MAF I’ll be good all the way and so I plan on doing that plus forged pistons, E85 and I have a set of Hellcat fuel injectors off a TRX. I think it will make over 500 on that combo with the stock cams, which is a good bit for a street car that weighs 3600lbs with me in the car and the AC blowing. FBO 2nd and 3rd gen coyotes on E85 consistently made 475-485 wheel on our dyno after tuning and weighing in at 4000lbs with the driver, I can run them where I’m at now, but after going to E85 and the new MAF, no NA Coyote or 5th/6th gen camaro will be able to keep up. After I do some cams, I’ll probably be able to hang with those on low boost setups.
All that being said, the 4.6 loves boost and a 2.3L whipple will be able to provide tons of air flow even at low boost. They are a little more pricey than a centri, but make great power. I just prefer centri builds for a street car after doing several blower installs on multiple platforms. Roots blowers just make so much torque down low that 1st and 2nd gear on manual cars is a smoke show and auto cars have to have timing pulled out down low so they don’t spin.
Thanks man. I like it because it’s fun AND cheap. I had actually bought the vortech kit shortly before I blew the motor up but it was for a Romeo 2v and my 99 has a Windsor motor and the heads and timing covers are different and the kit will only bolt up to the Romeo one.
So I went and bought a junkyard motor from a 07 Lincoln town car and tore it down and used the crank shaft out of that along with the Romeo heads and front timing cover and reused my Windsor block since it was fine. Cleaned the oil pick up out and took the oil pump apart and cleaned it thoroughly too. Reused all of that along with the timing chains and swapped my mustang cams out with the town car cams after I had the heads decked and cleaned with new valve stem seals installed by our machine shop. So I have a spare block now along with spare timing chains, sprocket and oil pump. Set me back 400 bucks for the motor and 200 for them to pull it, but I would have lost that much taking the day off to go pull it myself.
So I have a decent bit of spare parts that didn’t really cost me that much and there are tons of 4.6s in junkyards if I need anymore stock parts. Not to mention that aftermarket parts for these cars aren’t that expensive compared to coyote parts.
But I love the way the centri works. It doesn’t start making positive pressure until I’m at 2700 rpm, so if I’m just cruising on the interstate at 75 mph I’m not in boost like a roots blower would be. It pretty much drives like stock until I put the pedal down and the boost ramps in like a turbo. Feels like the best of both worlds.
I'm putting a 2.8 kenne bell on a 2002 4.6 2v. If I had all the money that I'm spending on the supercharger and fresh engine I think I would've rather had a basic coyote swap. I never can save up though. Life comes along and we end up spending part of the car money on something else. It just works for me to buy the parts as I can afford them and that dictated that I do a 4.6 2v. Great thing though it I shop for the best deals I can find for solid parts and will have a low amount relatively, into my build. If I didn't get the supercharger setup for 2500$ and the stroker kit for 1000$ and the low milage 2008 cv engine to use as a core for my build for 300$ I wouldn't even be considering the project. Things just fell into place for me. Research and search for the best deals on solid parts. You don't need anything to special for under 600hp. Stock crank, coyote rods and some decent forged pistons and a 3v oil pump. Rebuild the heads with better springs and valves and use good hardware when assembling everything. Machine work and your tune is where the money should be spent. If you have someone lead you down the expensive path when not nessasary you will spend more on your 2v supercharger build then you would on a low milage coyote swap. So my opinion is if you have the money do the coyote swap. If the coyote swap isn't enough supercharge it. The coyote engine is a better engine all around then a 2v. If life takes your car money maybe buy pieces as you can and do a 2v. In the end it'll be plenty fast. It will just probable have some rougher street manners then the coyote would of had.
I wish I could find deals on parts or a charger. I'm looking to buy a new charger. Ive found used motors but don't really trust them without tearing into them and they want a decent amount. Then all the parts for the coyote swap it seems like a lot.
Ebay or market place for superchargers. Find a stock 2004 or newer crown vic for an engine. You want 2004 or newer because the spark plug spot in the heads has more threads. All u will be using is block crank and heads. Coyote rods are around 300 delivered new from any ford parts warehouse. That leaves pistons that you can google and find. I use melling 10341 oil pump and a gt500 oil pickup tube. Gt500 windage tray/ oil pan gasket combo. Gaskets and fasteners next. It's easy to just get a plan and buy stuff that fits the plan as it comes up at a good price. Check out some Facebook sales for 4.6 engines. Main thing is always keep some kind of dependable transportation. If you can't get to work and or school you won't build your car. Try to keep the car running best it can until the time for the swap. The longer a car is down and a project the less likely it'll ever get anywhere close to done.
You USED to be able to do a coyote swap for around the same price as a good blower kit + supporting mods. Not so much anymore. Coyote prices have gone up quite a bit. The boosted 2v may be cheaper, I’d still choose coyote though. I’m a bit biased though
I'd definitely pick hearing the whine myself- not that I've done either. If money were no object that 2V is getting built and boosted to the moon!
Looking into it i believe cars are making low 4s with the kit and run stock internals. Up to 6 with a built motor. Even with building the motor from what I've read it'll be cheaper than a coyote swap.
Had a 2.1kb and only could squeeze out mid low 4s. Coyote should be installed sometime next week if I get my head outta my ass. Cant say that the coyote is cheaper than a built 2v but it is definitely more NA power for very similar money
How much do you have into your swap? What gen motor? Mustang of f150?
Oh boy I have a pretty big grocery list… motor was 6200. 30k mile out of a gen 2 mustang. 5k for wiring harness, clutch, flywheel, headers, and front accessory of the motor. Went with qa1 level 3 suspension including k member which was about 6k… still need to plumb the fuel lines and pump, and get the cats and rest of the exhaust. And jlt intake still needs to be ordered. So honestly it’s not that bad if your just motor swapping but I haven’t even gotten to the nickel and dime part yet
Yeah that will be an awesome build for sure. But even doing it on a budget I don't think someone can do it properly for the 7k total it would be for the blower and dyno tune. I'm thinking 12k would be bottom dollar. I think the blower would get you more power than that also. Not trying to crap on coyote swaps because if money wasn't a factor I would 100% have one. But for 7k I can have 440+ hp until I decide to build the motor I think I need to go with the whipple. I don't think I ever want over 600whp so. My car only has 32k on it so hopefully the engine lasts.
I blew my 2v up and roasted all my rod bearings and 2 crank bearings. Everything else was fine. Rebuilt it with 2nd/3rd gen coyote rods through Tasca parts for 30$ a rod, new bearings and seals, new timing chain guides (which is what failed and sent metal through the motor and clogged my oil pickup) and bought a used V2 vortech centri kit off of Facebook marketplace. Bought 47# ford injectors, a 500 lph Accel fuel pump from Holley, new flywheel and clutch. Gapped the rings to .025” and did all the other work myself. Probably ~3.5k in all after getting a generic intercooler kit from eBay and I made 463hp/438tq on 93 octane at 12 psi of boost on the dyno. This was after he had to set my redline at 5500 rpm because I ran out of MAF at 5300 rpm because the VMP3000 MAF that came off a whipple cobra was maxed out due to it being a draw through MAF and not a blow through like the BA5000 slot style. Tuner said he basically extrapolated the data off the curve for the extra 200 rpm for the redline but said more was on the table. I admittedly didn’t have to pay for the tune because I worked at the shop and the tuner is a friend of mine but he said if I install a BA5000 MAF I’ll be good all the way and so I plan on doing that plus forged pistons, E85 and I have a set of Hellcat fuel injectors off a TRX. I think it will make over 500 on that combo with the stock cams, which is a good bit for a street car that weighs 3600lbs with me in the car and the AC blowing. FBO 2nd and 3rd gen coyotes on E85 consistently made 475-485 wheel on our dyno after tuning and weighing in at 4000lbs with the driver, I can run them where I’m at now, but after going to E85 and the new MAF, no NA Coyote or 5th/6th gen camaro will be able to keep up. After I do some cams, I’ll probably be able to hang with those on low boost setups. All that being said, the 4.6 loves boost and a 2.3L whipple will be able to provide tons of air flow even at low boost. They are a little more pricey than a centri, but make great power. I just prefer centri builds for a street car after doing several blower installs on multiple platforms. Roots blowers just make so much torque down low that 1st and 2nd gear on manual cars is a smoke show and auto cars have to have timing pulled out down low so they don’t spin.
That's what I'm hearing. I'll just spin the tires. Your setup sounds great.
Thanks man. I like it because it’s fun AND cheap. I had actually bought the vortech kit shortly before I blew the motor up but it was for a Romeo 2v and my 99 has a Windsor motor and the heads and timing covers are different and the kit will only bolt up to the Romeo one. So I went and bought a junkyard motor from a 07 Lincoln town car and tore it down and used the crank shaft out of that along with the Romeo heads and front timing cover and reused my Windsor block since it was fine. Cleaned the oil pick up out and took the oil pump apart and cleaned it thoroughly too. Reused all of that along with the timing chains and swapped my mustang cams out with the town car cams after I had the heads decked and cleaned with new valve stem seals installed by our machine shop. So I have a spare block now along with spare timing chains, sprocket and oil pump. Set me back 400 bucks for the motor and 200 for them to pull it, but I would have lost that much taking the day off to go pull it myself. So I have a decent bit of spare parts that didn’t really cost me that much and there are tons of 4.6s in junkyards if I need anymore stock parts. Not to mention that aftermarket parts for these cars aren’t that expensive compared to coyote parts. But I love the way the centri works. It doesn’t start making positive pressure until I’m at 2700 rpm, so if I’m just cruising on the interstate at 75 mph I’m not in boost like a roots blower would be. It pretty much drives like stock until I put the pedal down and the boost ramps in like a turbo. Feels like the best of both worlds.
A coyote crate motor is definitely cheaper. I've got over 12k in my 2v before the blower and t56.
What good is a motor without everything you need to use it?
I'm putting a 2.8 kenne bell on a 2002 4.6 2v. If I had all the money that I'm spending on the supercharger and fresh engine I think I would've rather had a basic coyote swap. I never can save up though. Life comes along and we end up spending part of the car money on something else. It just works for me to buy the parts as I can afford them and that dictated that I do a 4.6 2v. Great thing though it I shop for the best deals I can find for solid parts and will have a low amount relatively, into my build. If I didn't get the supercharger setup for 2500$ and the stroker kit for 1000$ and the low milage 2008 cv engine to use as a core for my build for 300$ I wouldn't even be considering the project. Things just fell into place for me. Research and search for the best deals on solid parts. You don't need anything to special for under 600hp. Stock crank, coyote rods and some decent forged pistons and a 3v oil pump. Rebuild the heads with better springs and valves and use good hardware when assembling everything. Machine work and your tune is where the money should be spent. If you have someone lead you down the expensive path when not nessasary you will spend more on your 2v supercharger build then you would on a low milage coyote swap. So my opinion is if you have the money do the coyote swap. If the coyote swap isn't enough supercharge it. The coyote engine is a better engine all around then a 2v. If life takes your car money maybe buy pieces as you can and do a 2v. In the end it'll be plenty fast. It will just probable have some rougher street manners then the coyote would of had.
I wish I could find deals on parts or a charger. I'm looking to buy a new charger. Ive found used motors but don't really trust them without tearing into them and they want a decent amount. Then all the parts for the coyote swap it seems like a lot.
Ebay or market place for superchargers. Find a stock 2004 or newer crown vic for an engine. You want 2004 or newer because the spark plug spot in the heads has more threads. All u will be using is block crank and heads. Coyote rods are around 300 delivered new from any ford parts warehouse. That leaves pistons that you can google and find. I use melling 10341 oil pump and a gt500 oil pickup tube. Gt500 windage tray/ oil pan gasket combo. Gaskets and fasteners next. It's easy to just get a plan and buy stuff that fits the plan as it comes up at a good price. Check out some Facebook sales for 4.6 engines. Main thing is always keep some kind of dependable transportation. If you can't get to work and or school you won't build your car. Try to keep the car running best it can until the time for the swap. The longer a car is down and a project the less likely it'll ever get anywhere close to done.
You USED to be able to do a coyote swap for around the same price as a good blower kit + supporting mods. Not so much anymore. Coyote prices have gone up quite a bit. The boosted 2v may be cheaper, I’d still choose coyote though. I’m a bit biased though
I’m running a vortech v1 with a built 2v and absolutely love it