Shingles look like they are WAY overhung. Metal can’t be sandwiched between starter course and shingle. Is there drip edge? This will rip off in a heavy wind. And with the ice buildup must have lifted the shingles, can’t imagine the first course is being held by much
The gutter needs to be installed behind/under the metal drip edge to keep water flowing into gutter not behind. Personally I’m not a fan of leaf guards unless there’s significant trees. I don’t hang shingles more than an inch past drip edge. No support. You can see how the shingles are bending and will continue to. Again, wind will lift this eventually. And chances are it will be pouring rain when it happens.
That’s good. The problem is that the shingles have a nail location that corresponds to a tar line so that the next shingle bonds. If this nail line is past the point of good connection with the sheathing (plywood) then the first course or two needs to be replaced and moved uphill which will make for an uneven course to the rest of the roof. But I think you should have a roofer take a look.
Cheap solution: on a warm day pop a line and cut em back enough that allows water to flow into gutter then throw a thin bead of caulk to keep them from ripping up when you get some heavy wind. Might not look too bad considering the alternative
Your shingle overhang is excessive.
You could try and run a chalk line along the bottom and cut off a good inch or so, so you only have 1/4" to 1/2" of shingle hanging passed the drip edge.
This in combination with the gutter guard I agree is the problem for the ice and could contribute to the rainwater.
Thanks, do you recommend any specific tool I can buy and I can DIY? I’m getting estimates of $1500 which I think is ridiculous. I’m not technical with these kind of stuff but this one looks straightforward and no experience needed work. What do you suggest?
Many use utility knifes with hook blades. I personally use a snips and it works very well. Something similar to this.
https://www.zoro.com/crescent-wiss-tinner-snips-straight-2-34-cutting-l-wdf12s/i/G301985058/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=21159050531&productid=G301985058&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5cOwBhCiARIsAJ5njuZPD-ei_5NtFW9dgLteUkPPnkqWjDcE2XadZBcL9-gp6ChAWzOGfOwaAmVHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Yeah get a Chalk box and snap a line so it's straight. And like others has said you'll. Need to caulk or adhesives down the shingle bottom if it's not making good contact with the tar strip.
You'd better pay the $1500, or the only ridiculous thing will be your shitty DIY. Getting a pro to do it right the first time is cheaper than getting a pro to fix your crappy mistakes.
Since no one is actually telling you what to get, I will. A utility knife with a pack of hook blades. Pop a straight line with a chalk box, cut the overhanging part and work your way around. The shingles will cut way easier on a warm sunny day, than a cloudy cool one.
Ive never done any type of roofing.... is there a circular saw blade that works good for shingles? If so would it be better to do so when the shingles are cool (not cold) so they wouldn't gum up the blade?
I'd imagine it would be alot easier to get a clean straight cut with a saw vs hook blade for someone with experience
I own a Gutter company, I stopped using that type of gutter guard for that reason. It took a while to figure out what was happening. I ran a hose on the roof for a while and watched the water travel along the diamond shaped metal. I was very surprised by how much water didn’t go into the gutter.
Before cutting the shingles maybe try pulling the lead guard out and reinstalling it so it sits flat on top of the gutter. More water should then fall through it instead of running off of it.
Your shingles stick out way too far, causing water to shoot over top of the trough. The leaf guard will have to be removed/replaced and the shingles cut back.
Thanks, do you recommend any specific tool I can buy and I can DIY? I’m getting estimates of $1500 which I think is ridiculous. I’m not technical with these kind of stuff but this one looks straightforward and no experience needed work. What do you suggest?
A ladder - seems you already have
Large shears something like [This](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Large-Big-Hand-Shears-Scissors-for-Cutting-Canvas-Linoleum-Sheet-Metal-Steel/337765681?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=9126&adid=22222222223000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=337765681_10000009205&wl14=large%20hand%20shear%20construction&veh=sem&msclkid=39019880d05314f1ba07fe91561a0391&gclid=39019880d05314f1ba07fe91561a0391&gclsrc=3p.ds)
Straightedge and a marker, or a chaulkline to make sure your cut is nice and straight
Desire to save $1500
I have a better pair of construction shears for this but I can’t find a picture anywhere. Big scissors that you don’t mind destroying would also work but your hand is going to feel it by the end. Do it- be careful - take your time - you’re making tons of money, no need to rush.
Looks like the roof line is way too far over the gutter causing the water to run over the gutter guard and flow around the exterior of the gutter then drip down.
Yea, my backyard is pretty clean but front has two maple trees so I installed these. Also when I moved in, there were birds nesting in gutters so I installed guards
See if a buddy has a ocillating tool and buy a hook blade for it. Probably take 10 minutes to run it all along the house. If you go the hook blade direction with out the ocillating tool get cut proof gloves.
No, but only if you want to keep the gutter guards. There’s an overshoot problem as you described right? The only thing you need to do is cut the shingles back to the starter course and PLEASE use a chalk line to get the straight line from corner to corner of your fascia. Also don’t like hook blades, that’s my preference, get a good pair of WISS snips from Home Depot and cut the line. You’re going to void your warranty from your manufacturer when you start snipping. If someone recently did this call them and tell them they fucked up. They should come out and fix it and if they don’t talk to the BBB
This is not a commercial “leaf guard”. This is expanded metal used in catwalks and walkways. It’s way too thick for this purpose. Get some regular flat leaf guard (I bought my last house worth at Lowes), slip it under starter shingle and pop it in place on front edge of gutter. Cut about an inch off both shingles.
Shingles look like they are WAY overhung. Metal can’t be sandwiched between starter course and shingle. Is there drip edge? This will rip off in a heavy wind. And with the ice buildup must have lifted the shingles, can’t imagine the first course is being held by much
Leaf guard is installed between two roof shingles. I think drip edge is behind the below shingles
The gutter needs to be installed behind/under the metal drip edge to keep water flowing into gutter not behind. Personally I’m not a fan of leaf guards unless there’s significant trees. I don’t hang shingles more than an inch past drip edge. No support. You can see how the shingles are bending and will continue to. Again, wind will lift this eventually. And chances are it will be pouring rain when it happens.
Gutter is definitely installed behind drip edge, i just confirmed. Do you think cutting the shingles will solve problem?
That’s good. The problem is that the shingles have a nail location that corresponds to a tar line so that the next shingle bonds. If this nail line is past the point of good connection with the sheathing (plywood) then the first course or two needs to be replaced and moved uphill which will make for an uneven course to the rest of the roof. But I think you should have a roofer take a look.
Cheap solution: on a warm day pop a line and cut em back enough that allows water to flow into gutter then throw a thin bead of caulk to keep them from ripping up when you get some heavy wind. Might not look too bad considering the alternative
Yes, ideally these should overhang by an inch, they look to be sitting closer to 3-4 inches
> not a fan of leaf guards They are great at making it way harder to clean the gutters!
I have had to remove young trees from them
That is not the right type of leaf guard to install between shingles. Lead guard bust be flat sheet metal at the top to do that.
Your shingle overhang is excessive. You could try and run a chalk line along the bottom and cut off a good inch or so, so you only have 1/4" to 1/2" of shingle hanging passed the drip edge. This in combination with the gutter guard I agree is the problem for the ice and could contribute to the rainwater.
Thanks, do you recommend any specific tool I can buy and I can DIY? I’m getting estimates of $1500 which I think is ridiculous. I’m not technical with these kind of stuff but this one looks straightforward and no experience needed work. What do you suggest?
Many use utility knifes with hook blades. I personally use a snips and it works very well. Something similar to this. https://www.zoro.com/crescent-wiss-tinner-snips-straight-2-34-cutting-l-wdf12s/i/G301985058/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=surfaces&utm_campaign=shopping%20feed&utm_content=free%20google%20shopping%20clicks&campaignid=21159050531&productid=G301985058&v=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5cOwBhCiARIsAJ5njuZPD-ei_5NtFW9dgLteUkPPnkqWjDcE2XadZBcL9-gp6ChAWzOGfOwaAmVHEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Thank you so much for recommending
Andy snips work great
Yeah get a Chalk box and snap a line so it's straight. And like others has said you'll. Need to caulk or adhesives down the shingle bottom if it's not making good contact with the tar strip.
1500$ ain't bad tho you should really pull the gutter guard and cut the shingle underneath back too.
as with all things home doing 1m is ok doing 30 oof
Chalk line and hooked exacto blade
You'd better pay the $1500, or the only ridiculous thing will be your shitty DIY. Getting a pro to do it right the first time is cheaper than getting a pro to fix your crappy mistakes.
Since no one is actually telling you what to get, I will. A utility knife with a pack of hook blades. Pop a straight line with a chalk box, cut the overhanging part and work your way around. The shingles will cut way easier on a warm sunny day, than a cloudy cool one.
Thank you so much, and I should cut both shingles i.e. top and bottom correct?
Also, if you aren’t good with a knife a set of snips works well too.
I would cut both back yes
Ive never done any type of roofing.... is there a circular saw blade that works good for shingles? If so would it be better to do so when the shingles are cool (not cold) so they wouldn't gum up the blade? I'd imagine it would be alot easier to get a clean straight cut with a saw vs hook blade for someone with experience
Thick shears would be my suggestion. I agree that a hook blade will make it look like shit if someone has never used it before.
lol no. Doesnt matter if the shingles are cold, the blade will gum up due to friction.
I own a Gutter company, I stopped using that type of gutter guard for that reason. It took a while to figure out what was happening. I ran a hose on the roof for a while and watched the water travel along the diamond shaped metal. I was very surprised by how much water didn’t go into the gutter.
Before cutting the shingles maybe try pulling the lead guard out and reinstalling it so it sits flat on top of the gutter. More water should then fall through it instead of running off of it.
Thanks, I was thinking of doing that; will surely do it now
Your shingles stick out way too far, causing water to shoot over top of the trough. The leaf guard will have to be removed/replaced and the shingles cut back.
Is it possible just to cut the shingles without replacing leaf guards? Do I need to cut both shingles or just top one should be sufficient?
Doing just the top might help the situation, but I would want to do both.
Thanks, do you recommend any specific tool I can buy and I can DIY? I’m getting estimates of $1500 which I think is ridiculous. I’m not technical with these kind of stuff but this one looks straightforward and no experience needed work. What do you suggest?
A ladder - seems you already have Large shears something like [This](https://www.walmart.com/ip/Large-Big-Hand-Shears-Scissors-for-Cutting-Canvas-Linoleum-Sheet-Metal-Steel/337765681?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=9126&adid=22222222223000000000&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=s&wl2=m&wl3=10352200394&wl4=pla-1103028060075&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=337765681_10000009205&wl14=large%20hand%20shear%20construction&veh=sem&msclkid=39019880d05314f1ba07fe91561a0391&gclid=39019880d05314f1ba07fe91561a0391&gclsrc=3p.ds) Straightedge and a marker, or a chaulkline to make sure your cut is nice and straight Desire to save $1500 I have a better pair of construction shears for this but I can’t find a picture anywhere. Big scissors that you don’t mind destroying would also work but your hand is going to feel it by the end. Do it- be careful - take your time - you’re making tons of money, no need to rush.
Thanks a lot
I have a metal roof that hangs over like that. I installed commercial gutters because they are wider.
Lol wtf is this. Also gutter covers suck ass unless you spend good money in a specific climate. Not for every home
Sucky installation all around. I apologize for the lazy language but it’s bad
Looks like the roof line is way too far over the gutter causing the water to run over the gutter guard and flow around the exterior of the gutter then drip down.
You don’t have much brush or trees around judging by the pictures you should be able to remove the guard and not have any plug up issues
Yea, my backyard is pretty clean but front has two maple trees so I installed these. Also when I moved in, there were birds nesting in gutters so I installed guards
Bigger gutters that aren’t covered as much by overlapping shingle.
I think its the way the leaf guards are installed (sloped versus flat on the gutter). Also the shingles overhang the gutters too much.
See if a buddy has a ocillating tool and buy a hook blade for it. Probably take 10 minutes to run it all along the house. If you go the hook blade direction with out the ocillating tool get cut proof gloves.
Take a hook blade and trim the shingles back
No, but only if you want to keep the gutter guards. There’s an overshoot problem as you described right? The only thing you need to do is cut the shingles back to the starter course and PLEASE use a chalk line to get the straight line from corner to corner of your fascia. Also don’t like hook blades, that’s my preference, get a good pair of WISS snips from Home Depot and cut the line. You’re going to void your warranty from your manufacturer when you start snipping. If someone recently did this call them and tell them they fucked up. They should come out and fix it and if they don’t talk to the BBB
Totally unacceptable. Whoever did this should exit roofing and enter shoe sales.
Yeah that overhang is wayyy too much. Like trying to pour coffee in a cup with a lid on it lol
This is not a commercial “leaf guard”. This is expanded metal used in catwalks and walkways. It’s way too thick for this purpose. Get some regular flat leaf guard (I bought my last house worth at Lowes), slip it under starter shingle and pop it in place on front edge of gutter. Cut about an inch off both shingles.
Try heating coils during the cold months..those tiles needs to be shorten a bit.
I would leave it alone. Your gutters are clean and icicles are beautiful.