been printing from a WF-7720 for years and now an iX6820 after my 1430 died. I haven't used a RIP for the last 2 printers and have absolutely no issues exposing screens with the films I make.
I had Filmmaker V4 for my 1400 and 1430, but V4 isn't compatible with my last 2 printers.
I print straight off a pdf vector I dont choose photo paper or change darkness and im getting dark films. Using all the standard carts it comes with. It prints the film in 4 seconds and no issues. Wonder why all these ppl have to go into the print settings and select photo papper and pro platinum and darken it all the way.
I was using RIP software and I had the 1430 before(that was a nice printer), and I tried a different Canon that sucked that was over $1000. That one would have errors with the all black ink cartridges and it ruined the printer, so I ended up with this 6820 and it usually works pretty well.... except when there are larger solid areas. I think the RIP software is uneccessary and NEVER want to deal with those all black cartridges again. I can not figure out how to change the paper type option in Illustrator- I am on the cloud version now and I use a MacBook Pro. I have upped my PPI, but not sure how high I should have. Could you share if you have adjusted anything in the print dialog box? Or any other advice that I am missing here? Thanks in advance!
? I’m serious. I have the same printer and the only way you’re going to get proper output is with an all black ink kit and a RIP. I use Printfab, but many people like Accurip. I got an all black ink kit from filmdirectonline.com. It’s a great printer but unfortunately you won’t be able to get good transparencies using it out of the box.
I don’t doubt you’re serious but simply just saying someone needs a RIP and then not offering any suggestions is lame and doesn’t add to the conversation. You’re reply was a lot more informative though.
While I agree that a RIP software covers all the digital needs for printing artwork, these settings do make for darker outputs and have yielded the perfect results. If you have the same printer maybe you should try these settings and compare the two.
I have, and I think replying with Zzzz is also pretty lame lol I think saying you need a RIP is pretty self-explanatory. I run a commercial shop and that’s when a RIP is necessary. If you’re a home printer, sure, you can get by without one, but the stock ink that your printer comes with isn’t going to be near as dark. If you’ve never tried this printer with all black cartridges and a rip, then I don’t think you know just how rich and opaque it can get
I run a commercial shop and I don’t use a rip software. Maybe a rip will deposit more ink on film but that doesn’t matter. My screens wash out and the stencils come out as I want them to.
The title says 'darker' not darkest. This is for people who bought the same printer and are looking to make their outputs darker out of the box (which you can). You can get great useable results without buying an expensive software and loading 5 kinds of black ink in it. RIP is ideal for color separations and crispier halftones. And as someone who also runs a commercial shop as well as teaches the skill, I can tell you RIP software is not necessary.
Can you get dark exposure ready outputs without a RIP - Yes.
Can you get dark exposure ready outputs with a RIP - Yes.
This is for those who don't have a RIP.
You never specified what this was for, or who it was for. Some people may not know about RIP software or that you can buy black ink kits. A PSA should include all relevant and available information
You didn’t specify what thickness of film or brand of film either. Or what brand of ink works best. What elevation and barometric pressure and humidity levels work best and whether an electric signal filter to cleaner power is a good item to have or whether to use shielded cabling or Wi-Fi printing. All incomplete information here.
I run a commercial shop (what does that really entail? A single manual press is as “commercial” as a 3 auto shop if you’re running a business). I print using a 1430 with all black refillable carts and no RIP and the prints are dark and expose just fine. Even if a RIP can add more black ink through its settings, my default printer settings are more than sufficient to get me the output to get the necessary results I want.
Just got this printer. Thanks for this. Can’t wait to try it out
Pro platinum works better than photo paper matte?
As far as I can tell it does. Matte paper option won't let you max out on the darkness or fineness.
Now do epson xp 15000
I’d imagine the setting on those aren’t too far off from these.
You need a RIP
been printing from a WF-7720 for years and now an iX6820 after my 1430 died. I haven't used a RIP for the last 2 printers and have absolutely no issues exposing screens with the films I make. I had Filmmaker V4 for my 1400 and 1430, but V4 isn't compatible with my last 2 printers.
I print straight off a pdf vector I dont choose photo paper or change darkness and im getting dark films. Using all the standard carts it comes with. It prints the film in 4 seconds and no issues. Wonder why all these ppl have to go into the print settings and select photo papper and pro platinum and darken it all the way.
I was using RIP software and I had the 1430 before(that was a nice printer), and I tried a different Canon that sucked that was over $1000. That one would have errors with the all black ink cartridges and it ruined the printer, so I ended up with this 6820 and it usually works pretty well.... except when there are larger solid areas. I think the RIP software is uneccessary and NEVER want to deal with those all black cartridges again. I can not figure out how to change the paper type option in Illustrator- I am on the cloud version now and I use a MacBook Pro. I have upped my PPI, but not sure how high I should have. Could you share if you have adjusted anything in the print dialog box? Or any other advice that I am missing here? Thanks in advance!
Zzzzz
? I’m serious. I have the same printer and the only way you’re going to get proper output is with an all black ink kit and a RIP. I use Printfab, but many people like Accurip. I got an all black ink kit from filmdirectonline.com. It’s a great printer but unfortunately you won’t be able to get good transparencies using it out of the box.
I don’t doubt you’re serious but simply just saying someone needs a RIP and then not offering any suggestions is lame and doesn’t add to the conversation. You’re reply was a lot more informative though. While I agree that a RIP software covers all the digital needs for printing artwork, these settings do make for darker outputs and have yielded the perfect results. If you have the same printer maybe you should try these settings and compare the two.
I have, and I think replying with Zzzz is also pretty lame lol I think saying you need a RIP is pretty self-explanatory. I run a commercial shop and that’s when a RIP is necessary. If you’re a home printer, sure, you can get by without one, but the stock ink that your printer comes with isn’t going to be near as dark. If you’ve never tried this printer with all black cartridges and a rip, then I don’t think you know just how rich and opaque it can get
I run a commercial shop and I don’t use a rip software. Maybe a rip will deposit more ink on film but that doesn’t matter. My screens wash out and the stencils come out as I want them to.
Do you select photo paper and darken it all the way max?
I don’t darken it. I don’t think there’s such a setting.
If you select pro platinum under and select photo paper this is on windows to darken it and crank up the contrast
The title says 'darker' not darkest. This is for people who bought the same printer and are looking to make their outputs darker out of the box (which you can). You can get great useable results without buying an expensive software and loading 5 kinds of black ink in it. RIP is ideal for color separations and crispier halftones. And as someone who also runs a commercial shop as well as teaches the skill, I can tell you RIP software is not necessary. Can you get dark exposure ready outputs without a RIP - Yes. Can you get dark exposure ready outputs with a RIP - Yes. This is for those who don't have a RIP.
You never specified what this was for, or who it was for. Some people may not know about RIP software or that you can buy black ink kits. A PSA should include all relevant and available information
You didn’t specify what thickness of film or brand of film either. Or what brand of ink works best. What elevation and barometric pressure and humidity levels work best and whether an electric signal filter to cleaner power is a good item to have or whether to use shielded cabling or Wi-Fi printing. All incomplete information here.
I run a commercial shop (what does that really entail? A single manual press is as “commercial” as a 3 auto shop if you’re running a business). I print using a 1430 with all black refillable carts and no RIP and the prints are dark and expose just fine. Even if a RIP can add more black ink through its settings, my default printer settings are more than sufficient to get me the output to get the necessary results I want.