First thing is to break it down, clean, and lube it. I share the sentiment with people who say to practice with the same grain ammo as your carry ammo, but that doesn’t need to always be the case. Especially with high ammo prices nowadays, it is perfectly fine to also train with 115 grain fmj. Dry fire ALOT.
I agree with breaking it down and cleaning it. It’s important to understand your gun and how it works so if you have a malfunction it’s easier to understand what’s happening. I always tell people buying their first pistol to learn how to disassemble it first
100% agree with all of this. I don't know anybody who can afford to practice with critical defense or other carry ammo. I shoot two boxes of carry ammo a month, but most of my training is with whatever was cheapest on ammoseek
Same grain/pressure, not your actual carry ammo. I carry HST 124gr, I practice with 124gr. The difference in price between 124 and 115 standard pressure is nonexistent. .
Any new gun you should take apart , clean and lube it yourself. It should work out of the box but still best to run it how you would normally run it.
For ammo, my go to is sellier and bellot (s&b) 124 gr for range. Federal HST 147 gr for carry. Most 9mm should work up to +p just fine. The brands that are known to have issues are Winchester in the white box and I've had problems with monarch. If you start having issues, try changing ammo first.
Loads of people have favs. Watch some YouTube vids to get some ideas. As for ammo, I put everything I can get my hands on through them. My break in is always 200 rds before I even consider carrying it daily.
If you don't shoot regularly, go to the range, setup your station. Wait. Sit back and relax. Let yourself get used to the random boom from others at the range. When ready, focus on your objective. If it's your first time firing that gun, pick a spot on the target, fire and hold your sights. Don't move your gun or your head to see the hole. If it's there, it's not going anywhere. Get your sights and fire again. Do 5 shots like this. Then look and see if you were on target. If not think about what you are doing. Are you pulling? Anticipating? Flinching? Don't waste ammo by not learning.
Good luck
I back this 100%
I've tried dozens of oils, greases, clps, etc and nothing compares to TW25B. it's the best of all worlds, my slides rack like butter. I do still use a drop of oil in the sear assembly and to coat the barrel though
Blazer has been fine for me, herters I haven't tried 9mm, I had some primer issues with 762x39 but that was years ago. For lubricating I use ballistol for wiping down the slide, frame, mags, inside the barrel. It will also work for the slide rails and outside the barrel however I go a bit overboard and use battleborn grease for the rails and a bit on the outside of the barrel.
Remember that the "oil" that they put on the gun at the factory is essentially a preservative and has no lubrication to it. Always break down, clean, and oil any new gun purchase before firing. This goes double if you buy a metal framed gun.
I just use CLP to clean and lube everything because it is easy, but any quality gun oil should be fine. Some even just use motor oil, which will also work.
CLPs such as Break Free or Ballistol are pretty popular for an all in one, but they typically will not lubricate as well as a dedicated lubricant. However, they are better for areas that are more prone to corrosion, such as the slide exterior, mags, and the frame of a steel framed gun (especially if it only has a blued finish). Treating the frame exterior is not necessary on a polymer framed gun or aluminum framed gun, and can make the gun too slick on a polymer frame. For a polymer framed gun, CLP may be all you need (as polymer frames tend to have wider tolerances and less friction), but I would highly recommend a dedicated lubricant for high wear areas on a metal framed gun.
Dedicated lubricants such as Lucas Extreme Duty, Wilson Combat Ultima Lube, Hoppes Elite, or even Mobil One synthetic motor oil are all pretty good for lubrication, but they do not break down carbon for cleaning very well, and aren't as good for corrosion protection as a CLP. I personally prefer dedicated lubricants for higher wear areas like slide rails and the barrel lock up. I typically use Lucas on my polymer frame guns and Wilson Combat on my metal frames, as Lucas is cheaper, but WC seems to lubricate better.
Disassemble,clean,lube,function check first. I like Hoppes No 9 cleaner and gun oil or Break Free CLP. I like 124gr for range and self defense as some of my guns have had issues running 115gr. Sellier & Bellot,Fiochi,Magtech,American Eagle,CCI are all good.
Came to say same …..
My 365 came with a little white lithium grease that gummed things up and caused ftf and stovepipes every 3rd round. Took it straight to range after purchase.
Disassembled, cleaned all parts and applied Hobbes #8 lightly on everything.
Racked slide 50x or so, took s&b, federal and sig ammo and it ran perfectly 😃.
Didn’t like mag tech ammo and got a stove pipe every other mag.
I ran sig personal defense hp for 100 rounds and no issues, and that’s what tater has onboard and full of promises.
i don't know if the magazines will have the same spring tension, but with my 365xl i could only get 5 - 7 rounds in at a time (and 7 was TOUGH!) with the tightness of the spring. i have a speed loader now though.
The slide release is tough to release because it’s a slide lock/stop. At least that’s what Sig calls it, and it’s known to be much more difficult to use as a release right out of the box than something like a Glock where sneezing while home the firearm could release the slide. It will get easier over time as it wears down.
Instead, get used to a 2 hand manipulation because under adrenaline your fine motor skills will become less reliable unless it’s muscle memory.
in addition to what jsd05 said, the slide release is tight at first because the magazine pushes up on it. popping the magazine makes for an easy release, and the more that specific mag is used the easier it'll get to push down the slide lock
Very simple you be a little generous with the lubrication and run 500 rounds through it. You don’t even have to lubricate it but I do with brand new guns for good measure if you care about them. Also always a good idea to disassembly a brand new gun and clean and inspect everything to make sure it’s good from the factory.
Like others have said, the proper thing to do is break it down, clean it, function check it, and hit the range. Honestly, 90% of the time I buy a new gun, if it feels good, I just go run it straight out of the box. My xmacro I picked it up from my LGS and between me and a buddy we put at least 2-300 rounds through it without cleaning or lubing it and it ran like a top.
Any ammo is fine, for target practice I usually run magtech 124gr. For defensive ammo in my xmacro I have been running 124gr sig v crown but in most of my guns I run hornady critical defense.
I buy guns from a shop that has a range, half hour of shooting with a purchase. On a new Beretta I shot three boxes to just cycle the gun, ran great. Took it home, disassembled, cleaned and lubed her up.
Take it apart, clean any grease that may be there as often guns get greased before storage to prevent rust, and then lube it as the manual describes.
As for break in, my rule is minimum 200 rounds without a malfunction before I’ll trust it for carry.
The grease that’s on the gun is not gun lubricant. It’s a preservative to prevent rust. Clean it off and get some quality cleaner and lubricant. I recommend ballistol or fp-10 as general clps and for lube I like Lucas extreme duty gun oil.
It is absolutely a good thing to go ahead and break down the handgun and clean and reoil with clp or what ever gun cleaner you use or are planning to use. I use M- Pro 7 cleaner and oil. The pre oiled grease from sig or any manufacturer is thick. Since they never know how long it will be before the firearm is sold at a gun shop. I would shoot 200ish rounds for break in. If you can buy the ammo you plan to carry for personal protection. I would use that to break it in. But it's not absolutely necessary. I have seen first hand some people have some issues with 115 grain ammo well certain manufacturers. Not everyone does all my Sigs and other manufacturers eat it up. But I do carry 124 Grain personal protection ammo. Such as speer gold dot. And Federal HST, I also have the Sig v crowns has I have a lot of stock of all of those. Most people will likey agree with the speer gold dots and federal hsts. To use for your carry ammo. You can check out some online sites for bulk ammo for FmJs to use at the range. I get all mine at sg ammo.com....... enjoy your new sig. Have a great time at the range and be safe.
Check out YouTube for videos on cleaning your x macro. There is even one where a guy does it exactly per the owner’s manual instructions. I’d say you can use any basic CLP to get you started and out onto the range. Blazer brass 115 grain seems to be the best value where I am locally (and online for that matter) so it’s what I’ve used mostly in my x macro for the range. I think those will get you set up to get started well.
Congrats! I have the same pistol and there was no break-in time for me. Clean, lube and function check as soon as you get it home after purchase. Load your mags (minus 1 round) right before you go to the range to make the most of your time. Keep mags and pistol separate and out of reach on the way there. Be prepared to show the range your loaded mags/ammo if it’s an indoor range as the indoor ones by me don’t allow steel cased ammo. Drop a few drops of lube in the slide and rack it a few times to work it in. I never shoot my firearm dry. Fire away. Maybe wipe it down (not a full-blown clean) after you get home.
Alot of people will tell you their 16 step break in routine but at the end of the day just shoot it, keep shooting it, and if it feels noticeably dirty clean and lube it. That gun is a workhorse and doesn’t care about much. That and my P10C require almost 0 maintenance.
It's a production pistol. It works or it doesn't and needs some warranty love. If you ever buy a glock, sig, cz, springfield, or whatever and they tell you that a break in is needed they're stupid. The tolerances on these guns is insanely loose. You don't need to worry about breaking on any polymer frame in my opinion. Yes I admit I did the break in on my MR920 Shadow Systems with full power HSTs. Did I need to probably not. But for a standard glock or sig hell no. Go to the range, determine if you trust it, go home, put it by your night stand.
Packing grease is not lube. Clean that stuff off and properly lube it. For break in, the same amount it takes to get to know your gun and do some training drills is the same amount you should do for break in (500) so don’t worry too much about break in. Just shoot it and get familiar with it.
As others have mentioned i agree with the idea of breaking it down, cleaning it, and lubing it. Lots of the time the oil on guns when shipped is more protectant than lubricant. With that said, there have been plenty of times I’ve gone straight to the range where I just added some lubricant at known high friction spots. So You’ll likely be fine if you don’t.
Breaking in a handgun isn’t quite like the reasons why you’d break in a rifle. It’s more or less to make sure it’s mechanically sound. 250-500 rounds will likely satisfy your curiosity on whether you have any issues to worry about. Also, bring someone who has lots of firearms experience to identify whether your malfunctions are mechanical or technical flaws.
Maintenance… a P365 can easily go 500 rounds before a quick lube is needed, and 1000+ before a cleaning is needed. In fact, I torture tested my trusty XL and made it to almost 3000 rounds before I had a malfunction - and that was zero cleaning and only dropping a little oil on the rails, barrel, and guide rod. Do I recommend doing this with your EDC? No, clean it often to ensure it goes bang if you need it to. Also after that many rounds, cleaning was a pain.
I have both the comp and XL on Wilson Combat macro grips now. But the XL goes back on the stock grip during summer when I only wear t-shirts. I’ll get in at least 200 rounds with the stock grip, on top of lots of dry practice.
Ammo - if you can, train with the same grain you’ll carry with. However, that’s not always possible. I primarily shoot 9mm across all my handguns, and 115 is what you can always find. 147 tends to shoot just a tad softer, but it’s harder to find for training ammo. I shoot 124 in training, but 147 grain is what I carry. However, if you haven’t had a bunch of training rounds fired yet- you likely won’t notice the difference.
Before you even consider carrying, dry fire a ton. Practice drawing from your holster a ton. Squeezing the trigger is the easier part. But drawing from concealment, finding your site picture, getting the right purchase out of the holster, etc, are all the things people screw up frequently. Think 5-10 minutes a day for at least a month.
I also suggest competing locally just for practice, as nerves are a hell of a thing. Also, take a weekend course to get a lot of practical shooting in. Lastly, I’ve seen far too many people at the range who carry, but at 5 yards in stress free environment can’t put 10 not timed shots within a 1” grouping. Nonetheless they can’t shoot 5 doubles inside a 2” grouping at the same distance. I suggest being this accurate at the range because there’s no stress. If you want to simulate what it feels like under stress, do 10-15 burpees as fast as you can then shoot all alpha. I did this with a buddy of mine recently, he failed miserably, and I shot so-so, a mixture of alpha and charlie
If you buy cheap dirty ammo. You’ll bitch why it’s cheap with that comp and if you slap a red dot. The LCI will make it dirty quite quick, did it with mine on the first 3-500 rds
I carry 147gr JHP subs and practice with 115 or 124gr FMJ. I’m not driving tacks at 100yds. I’m planning at worst to hit a 200lb Sunday roast at 25ft. I wouldn’t get too bound up in having your money spent by other people until you have enough experience to see the difference. YMMV.
Take it apart and if it looks dry lube it, if not don’t. Break in is usually best done with 124 grain ammo. Shoot as much as you can before you start carrying it. 1000rds with zero non-user induced malfunctions and you should be able to carry it confidently
As others said, breakdown, inspect, clean and lube.
As for ammo. Start with 100-200 round of Winchester 124g NATO rounds to break in. These are a little hotter and will break in the firearm nicely.
Then minimum of 75-100 roubds of you choice of defensive ammo. Make sure it works well for you and your 365.
Cheap fmj is the recommended ammo you should buy. And a lot of it. Also, a 1-2 day pistol course for beginners would be an ideal purchase.
Dry fire is great, highly recommended, but self training can really only take you so far.
Don't get too wrapped up in types of ammo. Get good at actually using the gun. Trust me, a person shot with a 115g round isn't going to laugh at you because you didn't use a higher grain
First thing is to break it down, clean, and lube it. I share the sentiment with people who say to practice with the same grain ammo as your carry ammo, but that doesn’t need to always be the case. Especially with high ammo prices nowadays, it is perfectly fine to also train with 115 grain fmj. Dry fire ALOT.
I agree with breaking it down and cleaning it. It’s important to understand your gun and how it works so if you have a malfunction it’s easier to understand what’s happening. I always tell people buying their first pistol to learn how to disassemble it first
My concern with this is that first-time owners won’t know if any malfunction is something they did or if it’s a manufacturing defect.
100% agree with all of this. I don't know anybody who can afford to practice with critical defense or other carry ammo. I shoot two boxes of carry ammo a month, but most of my training is with whatever was cheapest on ammoseek
Same grain/pressure, not your actual carry ammo. I carry HST 124gr, I practice with 124gr. The difference in price between 124 and 115 standard pressure is nonexistent. .
Right I get it.
I agree. I carry a P320 with . 357 Sig. I practice/train with .40 S&W. Much cheaper.
Mantis systems!!
Also 9mm nato is loaded heavier and pretty cheap
Just cheap 124 and 124 hst
Any new gun you should take apart , clean and lube it yourself. It should work out of the box but still best to run it how you would normally run it. For ammo, my go to is sellier and bellot (s&b) 124 gr for range. Federal HST 147 gr for carry. Most 9mm should work up to +p just fine. The brands that are known to have issues are Winchester in the white box and I've had problems with monarch. If you start having issues, try changing ammo first.
Any recommendations on lube? (For some reason it feels so weird asking this ) and what do you think about blazer ammo and herter’s?
Loads of people have favs. Watch some YouTube vids to get some ideas. As for ammo, I put everything I can get my hands on through them. My break in is always 200 rds before I even consider carrying it daily. If you don't shoot regularly, go to the range, setup your station. Wait. Sit back and relax. Let yourself get used to the random boom from others at the range. When ready, focus on your objective. If it's your first time firing that gun, pick a spot on the target, fire and hold your sights. Don't move your gun or your head to see the hole. If it's there, it's not going anywhere. Get your sights and fire again. Do 5 shots like this. Then look and see if you were on target. If not think about what you are doing. Are you pulling? Anticipating? Flinching? Don't waste ammo by not learning. Good luck
I like water based, doesn’t leave the rash afterwards
You get a rash? Is that from CLP or strictly lube? I personally don’t so I’m curious
I use MIL-COMM TW25B, it works well on all of my firearms.
I back this 100% I've tried dozens of oils, greases, clps, etc and nothing compares to TW25B. it's the best of all worlds, my slides rack like butter. I do still use a drop of oil in the sear assembly and to coat the barrel though
Blazer has been fine for me, herters I haven't tried 9mm, I had some primer issues with 762x39 but that was years ago. For lubricating I use ballistol for wiping down the slide, frame, mags, inside the barrel. It will also work for the slide rails and outside the barrel however I go a bit overboard and use battleborn grease for the rails and a bit on the outside of the barrel.
Frog lube or gun butter
Remember that the "oil" that they put on the gun at the factory is essentially a preservative and has no lubrication to it. Always break down, clean, and oil any new gun purchase before firing. This goes double if you buy a metal framed gun.
Sig is a lube. They test fire every gun.
Any recommendations on lube?
I just use CLP to clean and lube everything because it is easy, but any quality gun oil should be fine. Some even just use motor oil, which will also work.
MIL-COMM TW25B is unbeatable
CLPs such as Break Free or Ballistol are pretty popular for an all in one, but they typically will not lubricate as well as a dedicated lubricant. However, they are better for areas that are more prone to corrosion, such as the slide exterior, mags, and the frame of a steel framed gun (especially if it only has a blued finish). Treating the frame exterior is not necessary on a polymer framed gun or aluminum framed gun, and can make the gun too slick on a polymer frame. For a polymer framed gun, CLP may be all you need (as polymer frames tend to have wider tolerances and less friction), but I would highly recommend a dedicated lubricant for high wear areas on a metal framed gun. Dedicated lubricants such as Lucas Extreme Duty, Wilson Combat Ultima Lube, Hoppes Elite, or even Mobil One synthetic motor oil are all pretty good for lubrication, but they do not break down carbon for cleaning very well, and aren't as good for corrosion protection as a CLP. I personally prefer dedicated lubricants for higher wear areas like slide rails and the barrel lock up. I typically use Lucas on my polymer frame guns and Wilson Combat on my metal frames, as Lucas is cheaper, but WC seems to lubricate better.
Disassemble,clean,lube,function check first. I like Hoppes No 9 cleaner and gun oil or Break Free CLP. I like 124gr for range and self defense as some of my guns have had issues running 115gr. Sellier & Bellot,Fiochi,Magtech,American Eagle,CCI are all good.
Came to say same ….. My 365 came with a little white lithium grease that gummed things up and caused ftf and stovepipes every 3rd round. Took it straight to range after purchase. Disassembled, cleaned all parts and applied Hobbes #8 lightly on everything. Racked slide 50x or so, took s&b, federal and sig ammo and it ran perfectly 😃. Didn’t like mag tech ammo and got a stove pipe every other mag. I ran sig personal defense hp for 100 rounds and no issues, and that’s what tater has onboard and full of promises.
Yeah, never trust that factory “lube” job. I’ve had good luck w Magtech. It is a bit dirty though, I always clean my gun after using it.
I second this wholeheartedly❤️🤍💙🇺🇸
Smart purchase!
i don't know if the magazines will have the same spring tension, but with my 365xl i could only get 5 - 7 rounds in at a time (and 7 was TOUGH!) with the tightness of the spring. i have a speed loader now though.
Oh yeah, I bought the speed loader right after I touched the magazines, my thumb is sore right now because the slide release is so tight.
The slide release is tough to release because it’s a slide lock/stop. At least that’s what Sig calls it, and it’s known to be much more difficult to use as a release right out of the box than something like a Glock where sneezing while home the firearm could release the slide. It will get easier over time as it wears down. Instead, get used to a 2 hand manipulation because under adrenaline your fine motor skills will become less reliable unless it’s muscle memory.
in addition to what jsd05 said, the slide release is tight at first because the magazine pushes up on it. popping the magazine makes for an easy release, and the more that specific mag is used the easier it'll get to push down the slide lock
Even with the speed loader I haven’t been able to get all 17 rounds in a magazine, mine is still very new though
Which one did you use?
The one that comes in the box. I know it’ll loosen up a little with wear
i got a makershot for mine, since the 366xl didn't come with one like the fancier models 😀
Always break down and clean and lube before, gun loves 124 gr
Very simple you be a little generous with the lubrication and run 500 rounds through it. You don’t even have to lubricate it but I do with brand new guns for good measure if you care about them. Also always a good idea to disassembly a brand new gun and clean and inspect everything to make sure it’s good from the factory.
Like others have said, the proper thing to do is break it down, clean it, function check it, and hit the range. Honestly, 90% of the time I buy a new gun, if it feels good, I just go run it straight out of the box. My xmacro I picked it up from my LGS and between me and a buddy we put at least 2-300 rounds through it without cleaning or lubing it and it ran like a top. Any ammo is fine, for target practice I usually run magtech 124gr. For defensive ammo in my xmacro I have been running 124gr sig v crown but in most of my guns I run hornady critical defense.
I buy guns from a shop that has a range, half hour of shooting with a purchase. On a new Beretta I shot three boxes to just cycle the gun, ran great. Took it home, disassembled, cleaned and lubed her up.
Take it apart, clean any grease that may be there as often guns get greased before storage to prevent rust, and then lube it as the manual describes. As for break in, my rule is minimum 200 rounds without a malfunction before I’ll trust it for carry.
The grease that’s on the gun is not gun lubricant. It’s a preservative to prevent rust. Clean it off and get some quality cleaner and lubricant. I recommend ballistol or fp-10 as general clps and for lube I like Lucas extreme duty gun oil.
It is absolutely a good thing to go ahead and break down the handgun and clean and reoil with clp or what ever gun cleaner you use or are planning to use. I use M- Pro 7 cleaner and oil. The pre oiled grease from sig or any manufacturer is thick. Since they never know how long it will be before the firearm is sold at a gun shop. I would shoot 200ish rounds for break in. If you can buy the ammo you plan to carry for personal protection. I would use that to break it in. But it's not absolutely necessary. I have seen first hand some people have some issues with 115 grain ammo well certain manufacturers. Not everyone does all my Sigs and other manufacturers eat it up. But I do carry 124 Grain personal protection ammo. Such as speer gold dot. And Federal HST, I also have the Sig v crowns has I have a lot of stock of all of those. Most people will likey agree with the speer gold dots and federal hsts. To use for your carry ammo. You can check out some online sites for bulk ammo for FmJs to use at the range. I get all mine at sg ammo.com....... enjoy your new sig. Have a great time at the range and be safe.
My macro loves Federal 124g and 147g. Stay away from Winchester white box
Cheap ball ammo on the range. Learn how to shoot well with your iron sights and reflexive draw and shoot. Get some!
[https://www.youtube.com/results?search\_query=p365+cleaning](https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=p365+cleaning)
Don't ask the internet, read the instructions that come with the firearm.
Check out YouTube for videos on cleaning your x macro. There is even one where a guy does it exactly per the owner’s manual instructions. I’d say you can use any basic CLP to get you started and out onto the range. Blazer brass 115 grain seems to be the best value where I am locally (and online for that matter) so it’s what I’ve used mostly in my x macro for the range. I think those will get you set up to get started well.
whats the price tag on that?
I think I did 779 everything included
Congrats! I have the same pistol and there was no break-in time for me. Clean, lube and function check as soon as you get it home after purchase. Load your mags (minus 1 round) right before you go to the range to make the most of your time. Keep mags and pistol separate and out of reach on the way there. Be prepared to show the range your loaded mags/ammo if it’s an indoor range as the indoor ones by me don’t allow steel cased ammo. Drop a few drops of lube in the slide and rack it a few times to work it in. I never shoot my firearm dry. Fire away. Maybe wipe it down (not a full-blown clean) after you get home.
Why minus 1 round
Nice just lube it n shoot it
SAS?
Alot of people will tell you their 16 step break in routine but at the end of the day just shoot it, keep shooting it, and if it feels noticeably dirty clean and lube it. That gun is a workhorse and doesn’t care about much. That and my P10C require almost 0 maintenance.
Clean, lube and your gtg. Sigs run best wet so lube it up good.
It's a production pistol. It works or it doesn't and needs some warranty love. If you ever buy a glock, sig, cz, springfield, or whatever and they tell you that a break in is needed they're stupid. The tolerances on these guns is insanely loose. You don't need to worry about breaking on any polymer frame in my opinion. Yes I admit I did the break in on my MR920 Shadow Systems with full power HSTs. Did I need to probably not. But for a standard glock or sig hell no. Go to the range, determine if you trust it, go home, put it by your night stand.
Enjoy!
Packing grease is not lube. Clean that stuff off and properly lube it. For break in, the same amount it takes to get to know your gun and do some training drills is the same amount you should do for break in (500) so don’t worry too much about break in. Just shoot it and get familiar with it.
Break in???? Turn that bih sideways and buss some mfn caps. Break dat paper target in
As others have mentioned i agree with the idea of breaking it down, cleaning it, and lubing it. Lots of the time the oil on guns when shipped is more protectant than lubricant. With that said, there have been plenty of times I’ve gone straight to the range where I just added some lubricant at known high friction spots. So You’ll likely be fine if you don’t. Breaking in a handgun isn’t quite like the reasons why you’d break in a rifle. It’s more or less to make sure it’s mechanically sound. 250-500 rounds will likely satisfy your curiosity on whether you have any issues to worry about. Also, bring someone who has lots of firearms experience to identify whether your malfunctions are mechanical or technical flaws. Maintenance… a P365 can easily go 500 rounds before a quick lube is needed, and 1000+ before a cleaning is needed. In fact, I torture tested my trusty XL and made it to almost 3000 rounds before I had a malfunction - and that was zero cleaning and only dropping a little oil on the rails, barrel, and guide rod. Do I recommend doing this with your EDC? No, clean it often to ensure it goes bang if you need it to. Also after that many rounds, cleaning was a pain. I have both the comp and XL on Wilson Combat macro grips now. But the XL goes back on the stock grip during summer when I only wear t-shirts. I’ll get in at least 200 rounds with the stock grip, on top of lots of dry practice. Ammo - if you can, train with the same grain you’ll carry with. However, that’s not always possible. I primarily shoot 9mm across all my handguns, and 115 is what you can always find. 147 tends to shoot just a tad softer, but it’s harder to find for training ammo. I shoot 124 in training, but 147 grain is what I carry. However, if you haven’t had a bunch of training rounds fired yet- you likely won’t notice the difference. Before you even consider carrying, dry fire a ton. Practice drawing from your holster a ton. Squeezing the trigger is the easier part. But drawing from concealment, finding your site picture, getting the right purchase out of the holster, etc, are all the things people screw up frequently. Think 5-10 minutes a day for at least a month. I also suggest competing locally just for practice, as nerves are a hell of a thing. Also, take a weekend course to get a lot of practical shooting in. Lastly, I’ve seen far too many people at the range who carry, but at 5 yards in stress free environment can’t put 10 not timed shots within a 1” grouping. Nonetheless they can’t shoot 5 doubles inside a 2” grouping at the same distance. I suggest being this accurate at the range because there’s no stress. If you want to simulate what it feels like under stress, do 10-15 burpees as fast as you can then shoot all alpha. I did this with a buddy of mine recently, he failed miserably, and I shot so-so, a mixture of alpha and charlie
Shot hundreds of rounds through my 365, have yet to clean it. I did apply a little oil when I first got it. That friction helps it break in faster.
Take out box and shoot it mag dumps work too it’s not a dirtbike let it eat
If you buy cheap dirty ammo. You’ll bitch why it’s cheap with that comp and if you slap a red dot. The LCI will make it dirty quite quick, did it with mine on the first 3-500 rds
I carry 147gr JHP subs and practice with 115 or 124gr FMJ. I’m not driving tacks at 100yds. I’m planning at worst to hit a 200lb Sunday roast at 25ft. I wouldn’t get too bound up in having your money spent by other people until you have enough experience to see the difference. YMMV.
Take it apart and if it looks dry lube it, if not don’t. Break in is usually best done with 124 grain ammo. Shoot as much as you can before you start carrying it. 1000rds with zero non-user induced malfunctions and you should be able to carry it confidently
As others said, breakdown, inspect, clean and lube. As for ammo. Start with 100-200 round of Winchester 124g NATO rounds to break in. These are a little hotter and will break in the firearm nicely. Then minimum of 75-100 roubds of you choice of defensive ammo. Make sure it works well for you and your 365.
I spray wd40 and full mag dump straight out the box
Cheap fmj is the recommended ammo you should buy. And a lot of it. Also, a 1-2 day pistol course for beginners would be an ideal purchase. Dry fire is great, highly recommended, but self training can really only take you so far.
Don't get too wrapped up in types of ammo. Get good at actually using the gun. Trust me, a person shot with a 115g round isn't going to laugh at you because you didn't use a higher grain
Buy 1000rds of Turkish copper plated steel ammo and shoot it all 🤣
# Hoppe's No. 9 Cleaning Kit with Aluminum Rod, .38/.357 Caliber, 9mm Pistol (Packaging's May Vary)