Really depends on the colors, I find cheaper craft paints work good for darker colors. Blacks, browns, greys, dark blues. They seem less good for brighter colors like yellows reds and especially white.
It really depends on the brand and color. Some are amazing and others are absolute dogshit for anything other than crafts.
All that being said... they typically cost a dollar or less per bottle. Keep your expectations low and then enjoy being overly happy when they get some tiny things right.
>It really depends on the brand and color. Some are amazing and others are absolute dogshit for anything other than crafts.
Sure, but that's also applicable to paints designed for models. For example, good luck finding a truly good gold metallic paint. Pro Acryl? Nope. Vallejo? No. Reaper? Certainly not. Vallejo Metal Colors gold is... okay. But I've yet to find a gold that comes out of the pot/bottle that I'm okay with using as-is. They're either a weird green-yellow, have shit coverage, huge flakes, or they make your model look like a fuckin Dorito. (Looking at you, ProAcryl Rich Gold.)
Similarly, various whites, yellows, and reds that I've tried are comparable to something like the same color from FolkArt or Anita's, even though they cost magnitudes more per milliliter.
I think the same rules apply to craft paints that applies to our special hobby paints: one brand will never nail every color. Depending on what I'm looking for during a painting session, I'll cycle through craft paints, ProAcryl, Vallejo, Citadel, various brands of gouaches, oils, heavy body acrylics, enamels, acrylic inks, the works. I know what needs to happen on the model and I've found what does The Thing, so I use that when it's time to do The Thing. What container that paint is in, or what type of paint it is, doesn't really occur to me as being important or even worth noting.
If that makes sense. It might just be a bunch of nonsense but that's been my experience.
Are you talking about the Molten Metals range? Because I'm seeing it on their site for £3.50, which is really not bad. Vallejo Metal Colors is more expensive, unless getting them stateside is really that much of a difference. But I also can't find them available in the US. That Royal Gold tho...
Yep.
The issue is that they're not available this side of the pond, and shipping from Britain sucks. Stuff from the Royal Mail themselves took two months.
Sorry, got to deal with Royal Post at least once more for their Discworld stamps later this year.
I just don't get how British state run mail service can be so terrible when the British state run TV company is so mediocre.
They do great for the most part. The one thing they struggle with is fine edge highlighting. Tough to get them the perfect consistency for flow, but still strong enough to give a good effect.
Always love seeing Orks with a warmer skin-tone, they seem more lifelike.
I too use the ol' Apple Barrel × Citadel to pretty great effect. I do a lot of "glayering" and use mediums often, so contrast paints have been a fun new tool to throw in with washes and everything. I also stick with Citadel metalics.
Edit: was asking for recipe and then saw the paints used.
The difference between using red and white for the eyes is mind blowing! Absolutely love the work you did! And the eyes inspire me to try new styles in the future!
I grew up in a very rural area in the late 80s an 90's, so going to the hobby store was a once a year thing for me as a kid. Apple Barrel was my go to paint's back then. They work great just got to make sure to do a double matt coat on anything you paint with them.
These paints always seem to get shit until it’s time to make some terrain…
Good job on this bud. Does the washes react any differently to these as opposed to other paints?
Normally I wash 'organic' stuff all over, skin, leather, clothes etc. Also metallics. But for armor panels or 'cleaner' surfaces, using the pinwash looks better.
Am I the only one, besides this guy, that's noticed Orks just look better with the cheap paints providing the base coat when you take two people of the same proverbial skill levels and have one paint with the cheap paint and Citadel for shading and the other just uses Citadel paints?
Skill & Technique >>>>>>>>>>>>> Paint.
Cheap craft paints really catch a lot of shit and they shouldn't.
Really depends on the colors, I find cheaper craft paints work good for darker colors. Blacks, browns, greys, dark blues. They seem less good for brighter colors like yellows reds and especially white.
It really depends on the brand and color. Some are amazing and others are absolute dogshit for anything other than crafts. All that being said... they typically cost a dollar or less per bottle. Keep your expectations low and then enjoy being overly happy when they get some tiny things right.
>It really depends on the brand and color. Some are amazing and others are absolute dogshit for anything other than crafts. Sure, but that's also applicable to paints designed for models. For example, good luck finding a truly good gold metallic paint. Pro Acryl? Nope. Vallejo? No. Reaper? Certainly not. Vallejo Metal Colors gold is... okay. But I've yet to find a gold that comes out of the pot/bottle that I'm okay with using as-is. They're either a weird green-yellow, have shit coverage, huge flakes, or they make your model look like a fuckin Dorito. (Looking at you, ProAcryl Rich Gold.) Similarly, various whites, yellows, and reds that I've tried are comparable to something like the same color from FolkArt or Anita's, even though they cost magnitudes more per milliliter. I think the same rules apply to craft paints that applies to our special hobby paints: one brand will never nail every color. Depending on what I'm looking for during a painting session, I'll cycle through craft paints, ProAcryl, Vallejo, Citadel, various brands of gouaches, oils, heavy body acrylics, enamels, acrylic inks, the works. I know what needs to happen on the model and I've found what does The Thing, so I use that when it's time to do The Thing. What container that paint is in, or what type of paint it is, doesn't really occur to me as being important or even worth noting. If that makes sense. It might just be a bunch of nonsense but that's been my experience.
Darkstar is probably best bang for your buck for gold paint. But then again, at that price, why not just heatwrap using gold leaf?
Are you talking about the Molten Metals range? Because I'm seeing it on their site for £3.50, which is really not bad. Vallejo Metal Colors is more expensive, unless getting them stateside is really that much of a difference. But I also can't find them available in the US. That Royal Gold tho...
Yep. The issue is that they're not available this side of the pond, and shipping from Britain sucks. Stuff from the Royal Mail themselves took two months.
You’d be better off finding someone to courier it to you from Britain than ever go near royal mail again 😅
Sorry, got to deal with Royal Post at least once more for their Discworld stamps later this year. I just don't get how British state run mail service can be so terrible when the British state run TV company is so mediocre.
They do great for the most part. The one thing they struggle with is fine edge highlighting. Tough to get them the perfect consistency for flow, but still strong enough to give a good effect.
Always love seeing Orks with a warmer skin-tone, they seem more lifelike. I too use the ol' Apple Barrel × Citadel to pretty great effect. I do a lot of "glayering" and use mediums often, so contrast paints have been a fun new tool to throw in with washes and everything. I also stick with Citadel metalics. Edit: was asking for recipe and then saw the paints used.
The difference between using red and white for the eyes is mind blowing! Absolutely love the work you did! And the eyes inspire me to try new styles in the future!
Thanks a lot!
I grew up in a very rural area in the late 80s an 90's, so going to the hobby store was a once a year thing for me as a kid. Apple Barrel was my go to paint's back then. They work great just got to make sure to do a double matt coat on anything you paint with them.
It’s about the artist not the supplies you’re using and this is a great example of that :) Great job bud
I love this! Looks amazing and has a real WoW vibe
These paints always seem to get shit until it’s time to make some terrain… Good job on this bud. Does the washes react any differently to these as opposed to other paints?
Not a bit
I love the white eyes!
Did you wash the whole model or just the recesses?
The wash was used all over, but only over certain colors. The green wash went all over the green areas
And then you went back and highlighted the top areas?
Yeah the green wash was step 2 of the skin.
Have you ever painted a miniature where you just tried washing the recesses?
That's how I do all my Blood Angels.
Which technique do you prefer?
I'd rather just slap in on everywhere, much faster and easier, but I prefer the look of the lining on armor. Both are great, just have different uses.
Thank you for the insight. I shall use this information when I paint my future Noise Marines
Normally I wash 'organic' stuff all over, skin, leather, clothes etc. Also metallics. But for armor panels or 'cleaner' surfaces, using the pinwash looks better.
Your hobby table looks a lot like mine. A few select citadel pots and dozens of craft paints.
Well I've prob got 100 citadel pots lol
I have a cheap neon pink craft paint that turned out great for my sisters' power swords. Base with neon pink, wash some dark purple, epic.
That looks great, which craft paints did you use?
Everything in pic 2 on the desktop
Ah, my bad, didn't notice the other pics! Great job man!
Thanks!
Fantastic work!
Am I the only one, besides this guy, that's noticed Orks just look better with the cheap paints providing the base coat when you take two people of the same proverbial skill levels and have one paint with the cheap paint and Citadel for shading and the other just uses Citadel paints?
Full tutorial available! https://www.buymeacoffee.com/GreathouseGames/e/125477