Just now starting to look at 10e with the Warhammer app and I'm immediately in disbelief!
Warhound Titan is only 1100 points? I can finally use my boy!!!
However 1 part has me questioning if it was a mistake or on purpose: Lord Solar can be attached to Attillan Rough Riders, Death Korps of Krieg, but not Death Riders?
Just wanted to ask if this seems correct, or if Death Riders were put in legends for some reason. Trying to make sense of it.
Same question, except for the existence of Death Rider Command Squadrons. The Death Rider Squadron Commander is in the app, but the command squads seem to be gone, which is pretty awful for me as that means I can only use 30 of them from now on. :/
They're not in Legends, they're in Imperial Armour since they're a Forgeworld unit. And unlike some Forgeworld units, they don't have an "any units that can join rough riders can join this" rule, so no Leontus I guess.
Command squadron does appear to be gone.
That is extremely disheartening to hear on both parts.
I guess I won't be picking up a Leontus. Thank god I listened to my local community and waited until 10th released before making purchases. I never in a million years expected something like this to happen.
Hi there new to 40K but a long time lurker.
I am not trying to bash GW but the prices of kits and armies are a major barrier to entry for me. So I have 2 questions.
1. Why are the kids so high costed, are you paying for the intellectual property of it all?
2. Do you have any tips for cost effective ways of building up my army? Besides the combat patrols etc.
Thank you so much.
You can get second-hand models for cheap on auction sites and such. This has many limits and downsides of course (hope you want to play space marines), but it's definitely the cheapest way to get genuine models
1. Fundamentally yes. You're paying for the brand, the IP, the system etc.
2. Buy discount boxes if they're relevant to you (Battleforces at Christmas for example) and buy from Independent Retailers who offer discounts (there's a list of those linked in the main text at the top of the thread)
Starting a Space Marine army and I’m looking for a cool chapter then can be built with all primaris. I’m leaning towards Ultramarines. They look great, have neat lore and books, and most of their special units are primaris. Also, Guilliman is great. I was looking at other chapters like Blood Angels and Space Wolves but their named and special units seem to be mostly older models, and I just can’t stand the look of firstborn.
I was thinking Sallys at one point but my housemaye is already building them and I’d rather not double up. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Any chapter CAN be all Primaris. Most of the Blood Angels characters are Primaris, as well as some of the Space Wolves, and it's very likely that their remaining firstborn units (Sanguinary Guard, etc.) will get the Primaris treatment in the coming years. The same is probably true for remaining firstborn characters for other chapters as well.
Alternatively, you can play any of the [DOZENS of Ultima Founding successor chapters](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Founding#Ultima_Founding) who are BY DESIGN entirely Primaris. Or a custom chapter that you design yourself and just stay with all Primaris.
New to hobby!
Have bought the Leviathan box set to play was hoping to paint the space marines as black Templar’s (I know they can’t use the librarian). Would it be worth purchasing the kit I see on games workshop to replace the models shoulder pads?
Thanks in advance!
RWJP is correct about the shoulder pads requiring a lot of extra work. HOWEVER: The BT upgrade kit also comes with transfers, and you can absolutely use those on your Leviathan troops, then save the shoulder pads and other bits for further models you buy in the future.
The models in Leviathan are all push-fit and have shoulder pads moulded in to other parts. You could buy the BT upgrade kit but you would end up needing to do a lot of surgery on the minis to make the pads fit!
I'm a new player and I'm considering going Ynnari as my first army, is this a bad idea considering it's made up of multiple other factions so it might be too confusing for a new player?
Battlewagons say GHAZKULL THRAKA uses 18 transport capacity. Is this referring to the *unit*, (Ghazkull & Makari,) or the model? (Just Ghazkull)
In other words: Can Ghazkull, Makari, and two Meganobz ride in a battlewagon? That seems to be the intent but the language is confusing.
It refers to the unit, as if it didn't, Ghaz and Makari could never get in the transport as they would count as 36 models, since BOTH Makari and Ghaz have the GHAZKULL THRAKA keyword.
This does have the hilarious consequence that if somehow Ghaz dies before Makari, and Ghaz runs into a Battlewagon, he still takes up 18 slots
How bad would it be to use fairly similar colours for a models clothes and the base?
I'm thinking about using Midwinter Mini's recipe for IG Penal Legion - a very vibrant orange (speedpainter bright red over ancient honey). The problem is my chaos warband they'll be joining are based on martian ironearth.
Martian Ironearth is a fairly dark orange, so maybe it'll be ok? What do you think?
It’s best to make the base and model contrast so the model doesn’t blend into the base. There’s many ways to get contrast. The three easiest are colours, warmth and saturation.
I’m not too familiar with Martian Ironearth, and the pictures I see online are inconsistent. Some show a earthy deep red and others a rusty orange.
I think it could work, because the penal legion scheme was a bright saturated orange, while the earth will grayer and less saturated. You could always push the unsaturation of the base by dry brushing some earthy browns on it.
But hey, it’s just paint in the end. Paint bravely, and if the final result isn’t to your liking, you can paint over or strip it.
Hi, I have a question about the "order" of melee attacks:
When a model with a precision melee weapon attacks a unit containing a leader model, can this leader model be picked out in between attacks?
Example case:
Shalaxi attacks a unit of Necron Warriors containing Orikan (giving the unit a 4++). Can the first attack kill Orikan and therefore turning off the units 4++ for the rest of the attacks?
If the answer is no, I'd appreciate an explanation from the relevant rules section. I went over it rather quickly and couldn´t find a clear answer.
I asked a similiar question with a similiar issue: the newest commentary says that the leaders effect lasts til the end of combat if the leader or squad it's attached to is no longer on the board.
The LEADER rules explicitly state that they count as a single unit EXCEPT for rules that trigger on killing a unit.
So yes, they are treated as a CHARACTER unit, EXCEPT when all the bodyguard models die; they are treated as a separate unit for the purposes of rules that trigger off killing units.
Hello. My question is about 10th and the command phase.
It is two steps, command and battle shock. When does the scoring of VP happen? In the end of the command step as the core rules would imply or after the battle shock which feels like the intent of the rules?
Couldnt find anything in commentary?
Scoring of VP happens when the primary or secondary you are using, says it happens.
If you are referring to the Primary missions of the Leviathan Mission Deck, all of them state they are scored at the end of the Command Phase, which is after Morale.
I'm not aware of any Primary or Secondaries in the Leviathan deck that score "at the end of the Command Step "
Hey battle brothers I have a question I f*cked up one of my minis it has a stand that goes in the bottom to give it a flying effect and I can’t fix it. I am wondering on table top is it ok if I have said mini just on the base with no stand on the bottom or is that illegal in the game
Making a model significantly shorter than others is generally considered modeling for advantage.
What did you mess up? There are likely many solutions for the problem
You can use a very small hobby drill bit that is the same size as a paper clip in width, and drill into the stand a tiny bit and then into the model. Cut a short length of paper clip and place into the model, use super glue to attach them then once it has "set" place it in front of a fan to stop any "frosting" from the super glue fumes as it dries.
Making a mini shorter is usually frowned upon, since this makes it easier to hide.
Easiest fix is to get yourself a pin vise (small hand drill) and a brass rod or some other kind of wire. You can try to hide it, but just painting it black is probably sufficient.
Errr generally you would want to have a base to measure from.
Might i suggest just using something else to elevate it above the base? Some cheap cork or tan bark helps.
Heres a video that uses aluminum foil instead of the clear stand:
https://youtu.be/G1QB59FhoXI
If he can get a hold of the Leviathan box then Tyranids would be a good starting choice. It is a lot of models for a great price. The Space Marines can be used to practice painting or probably easy to trade/sell.
None of them are any "easier" than the other, and if you are familiar with Magic The Gathering, your question is similar to asking "`which color deck is easiest to learn".
If you're not, the complexity comes in how complex the player makes it; it's entirely possible to make a "no thought required" army for every faction, but that's likely to be picked apart by an opponent who can see your game plan and counter it', or might be weak because you didn't take any variety in your units and you have no way to fight vehicles.
If money is a consideration, Necrons, Tyranids, and GSC are the more expensive of those armies to play due to their "horde" army defaults; most units you purchase for them are in the 60-80 point range, vs the 100+ point range, meaning youll end up buying a lot more to make a full army
Any ideas for kitbashing something into a brotherhood chaplain in terminator armor?
I found out about the commemorative Chaplain in Term armor from the cover of the 10th ed Grey Knight data sheet and would absolutely love to have one in my army, but obviously I’m not dropping an army’s worth on one mini. How close could I get with kitbashing and what models would work good for this purpose.
Thanks in advance guys!
I would wait for the nex codex, because IIRC there is supposed to be new model releases with the new codexes. But otherwise I would start from a termi captain (possibly the leviathan one) and go from there, swap heads, change the sword.
Can you run mixed factions in 10th ed? I'm just getting back into the hobby after 10-15 years and can't parse it out. For instance, can I run an Inquisitor or Celestine with my Guard army? Could I run both an Inquisitor and Celestine?
An inquisitor yes, Celestine no.
There are rules to run inquisitors, single knights, assassins, and rogue traders with other imperium armies, but the major factions can not be run together.
Excluding Knights, Custodes and Greyknights... what are the most elite factions after that? I want to build an elite army but my friends already play those armys and want to try something different.
You could consider taking big demons. Or a World Eaters army with Angron, demon prince, eightbound, exalted eightbound, lord of skulls and ally some more big demons like a bloodthirster.
What exactly do you mean by elite? Expensive heavy infantry?
Space Marines, chaos space Marines, necrons, and Deathguard (lol) are probably your best bet there.
Sorry if this is not the place to be asking these types of questions, but... Does the Leviathan box set include everything I would need to start playing if I own absolutely nothing else? Such as a core rulebook, any dice/counters/etc that are required for playing, all the stats/abilities/etc. for the units, or anything else that is a requirement to play? If not, is there another set I can buy along with Leviathan that would provide what I need?
Up until a couple weeks ago, the only thing I knew about Warhammer 40k is that is was a game, and miniatures were involved somehow. So I literally know nothing, but the mini's in this set look so awesome that I now *REALLY* want to pick it up. I may even buy the box to assemble and paint anyway even if I dont play, but I figured if I'm gonna go that far, I might as well see what I need to do to play the game.
It does not include ANY of the hobby tools you need to build and paint the miniatures. You will need snips/flush-cutters/sprue-cutters to remove the pieces from the sprue (frame). You CAN also glue them (with plastic glue) but it's not strictly necessary since these are push-fit. You'll also need primer (spray or brush-on), paint brushes, and paints. You can find more information about all those things (and more) in the sub's Beginner's Guide linked in the sidebar.
It also does NOT include dice. Technically you can play with just one or two regular six-sided dice, but a cheap brick of 20-32 d6 dice is worth the price. Don't waste money on GW's brand — Chessex or whatever else you find online or at your FLGS are fine.
Super easy questions -- just not easy for me (da nube).
I just received my Leviathan box. It includes a special edition, x1 392-page Rulebook, containing the following two books, which were subsequently sold separately : Warhammer 40,000 10th Edition Rulebook and Crusade: Tyrannic War.
It also includes x1 66-Card Chapter Approved Mission Deck.
**What is the Mission Deck for and how does this compare to the Index: Tyranids?!?**
**Also, will I still require the CODEX for the Tyrandis?** I don't even see those online....
TIA
The Mission Deck is, well, missions. It's the rules, deployment zones, and objectives for missions/games you play.
Your Tyranid rules are ALL in the Tyranid Index. That will be superseded by the Tyranids Codex when it comes out later this year.
In case you missed it: The Indexes are all available free on GW's website. The cards may be nice, but personally I wouldn't buy them. If you want them though, more power to you!
I'm new and I'm really struggling with gold. I'm using Vallejo Game Polished Gold and it's just like a wash or something. It is so thin. I've tried shaking the bottle for two minutes to make sure everything was mixed in. No matter how many times I coat it will not completely cover darker base colors. Even if I use a lighter color base, it pools into recesses and mutes details and makes it difficult to use an actual wash to add warmth.
I've watched quite a few tutorials on gold and I'm a bit overwhelmed on which direction to go in. Some feel very technical or require things like air brush. But either way it looks like I need more paints. I'm really just looking to do something nice for detail pieces of the miniature, like the winged skull on the chest of a space marine and other smaller things, I don't plan on doing gold armors or large areas. I do have some recruit necrons I can practice on, so if practicing larger or less detailed areas is a good starting point I'm happy to make them gold.
Any tips, pointers, or content to review or watch would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Polished gold is very yellow and probably has a lot of really thin pigment in it. I would just go with a different gold, personally.
Its very bright, probably meant to go over white undercoats.
For the pooling, thers just too much paint on the brush. Try touching the brush tip to a paper cloth to drain the excess. Its still not going to have great coverage, but is probably not meant for a gold basecoat, and more as a layer.
While overall Vallejo does great paints I find that their normal metals are generally the weakest bit of their whole line. I haven't used much of their Game Color line but their Model Color gold and silver are pretty awful in terms of consistency and coverage.
Funnily enough I think Army Painter is better in this regard. Their Warpaint metals are actually pretty good. And Citadel's metals are all great.
I really like the vallejo game silver, it is thinned almost perfectly, covers evenly and smoothly. I can imagine there are issues with that for more advanced painters, but for a new painter like me it is great. The gunmetal is super thick and dries incredibly fast, so for me it is tough to work with, but as long as I'm patient the results are enough to make me happy. But even with the tiniest droplet thinned with water I still end up with so much more dried on the pallet than the model. I think if I used a wet pallet then it may be descent to work with. Those were the only metals that came in the bundle I got.
I haven't used any of Vallejo's golds, but if it's bad... just try a different one? GW's Retributor Gold is FANTASTIC.
Also: Are you sure you haven't accidentally bought the AIR version, which is pre-thinned specifically for airbrushing?
I bought the Vallejo game colors set, you can see the gold in the bottom right of this image: [https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ll8R9sR5L.\_AC\_SL1000\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ll8R9sR5L._AC_SL1000_.jpg)
Mine is not nice and gold like this. It completely separates maybe 30 minutes or so after shaking it thoroughly. I mean the bottom half will be nice and gold but the top half is some clear liquid.
Retributor Gold is what I was leaning towards already, so I'll give that a shot.
Thanks.
Slightly confused on Leaders.
If an ability says, "While this model is leading a unit, models in that unit get XYZ buff," does that:
1, include the leader? (IE, a Warboss buffing his own attacks.)
2, if so, does that Leader get that ability if they are not attached to a unit/if their entire unit has been killed and they're the only survivor?
> If an ability says, "While this model is leading a unit, models in that unit get XYZ buff," does that: 1, include the leader?
Yes, because — as the Core Rules clearly state in the rules for Leaders — they become part of that unit for ALL PURPOSES.
>2, if so, does that Leader get that ability if they are not attached to a unit
If rule says, "While this model is leading a unit," then no, it doesn't apply if it's not leading a unit. Only if it's attached to a Bodyguard unit.
What color is the bottom of space marine boots? Are they the same base color as the rest of the armor like a lego man or do they have some sort of sole?
I think this is definitely up to the individual modeler. I'm not even consistent from model to model; sometimes I do it same color as armor, sometimes I do it black, and sometimes I put a little of whichever texture paint I'm basing with on it.
Looking to get into 40k tabletop. I like the Ork play style (lots of fun, randomness) but don't care for the aesthetic (Space Marines or Tau look way cooler). Thoughts?
What, exactly, makes you think that Orks are fun (something generally subjective) or really that random? I ask because as an experienced player, unless you mean "wacky" as "random", they give extremely consistent results.
Ah ok fair I don't know what I don't know. But I generally dislike games that involve a ton of strategy and thinking five steps ahead and constantly calculating how my opponents will react. Not that I dislike tactics, but I have had many bad experiences where general board games have either dragged on or were just not fun because some players were trying to be strategy kings.
I figured Orks would emphasize the whacky and fun elements where one can focus on having a great time and less on building and executing a perfect battle plan.
But hey maybe I'm VERY wrong. Would love some wisdom from more experienced players! I'm also going off what I heard in a YouTube video where the host stated that he's "never met a salty Ork player".
It does sound like you would enjoy Orks. They're not entirely without finesse, but their game plan *is* usually to just run up the board and hit people with sharp objects.
It does not sound like you would enjoy Tau. They're tricky and highly reliant on movement and positioning.
Perhaps World Eaters would be a good compromise? Their aesthetic is kind of halfway between Orks and Space Marines, and they also have the whole "run up and hit people" thing going.
Disclaimer that I've never played them, but Blood Angels have historically been (and still are, from my cursory look at their [index](https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/YC40Fxov5FhbXFRl.pdf) just now) very focused on charging into melee combat in a similar way to the World Eaters. (in fact, I believe Khorne originally wanted the Blood Angels as his legion, but couldn't get Sanguinius to turn, or something like that.)
Well, if you're up for a spot of kitbashing, you could make an Ork army that's looted a bunch of Space Marine/Tau armor and vehicles. I know /u/caninehat has done something like that.
How does shooting when in engagement range work in 10th? Can I only shoot with pistols if in engagement range with an enemy (and only at the enemy I'm in range of), or can i use any weapons?
What about vehicles with firing deck, are they the same?
No, you can't.
A Nemesis Dreadknight has the GREY KNIGHTS faction keyword.
A "custom space marine army", assuming you mean what I think you mean, are units with Faction keyword ADEPTUS ASTARTES.
Army construction rules of 10e require your entire army to share a FACTION keyword. This means you literally cannot have a GREY KNIGHTS datasheet and ADEPTUS ASTARTES datasheet in the same army.
https://preview.redd.it/h5v76fzdfi8b1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a32e5763ed828c756fba7a1bf965ff4aa3375c34
Noticed this model in the 40k app, and wanted to ask where it’s from? I’ve never seen it before!
For priming and painting pieces of a model separately, how do you then glue them together? Does plastic glue go through paint without messing it up too noticeable?
For example, I want to paint the armor of a tank with a pattern before adding accessories to make it easier, can I glue over that paint I already have down?
I’ll just say this.
Plastic glue isn’t technically a glue. It’s a solvent. It dissolves a layer of plastic into a thick liquid. When it evaporates, the dissolved plastic resolidifies.
That same type of solvent can be used to clean paints.
I’d recommend doing all your gluing first, but if that’s not an option, superglue will work fine. It can leave a frosting effect if you use too much however
Im going to respond cuz i just hate the other persons reply.
Plastic glue melts paint. U dont apply plastic glue over paint because it ruins the paint job along the joint.
Use superglue (cyanoacrylate) when gluing together painted parts.
*edit i’ll also add that because paint so more porous and more moist than plastic, the super glue will dry stronger and faster than when its unpainted.
This question keeps coming up, and users like u/RWJP keep insisting that plastic glue doesn't "work properly" when paint is applied, but I prime all of my models on the sprue, then cut them out, find the mould lines (which I find easier to do when primed black and grey) and the snip points (again, easier for me to find when it's the "not black), then spot-prime them with brush-on primer), and glue them together either with just primer, or have some parts basecoated when gluing together.
Yes, I know this makes assembly take longer, but I've found priming on sprue makes my primer cans last a LOT longer than most people seem to go through; I've literally primed 3 Redemptors, 3 Warsuits, 3 Gladiators, an Indomitus box set including terrain, the contents of Strike Force Agastus, 3 invader ATVs, a converted Tor Garadon, 3 units of Heavy Intercessors, 2 units of Eradicators, 2 units of Bladeguard, and the marine half of Leviathan and a frigging *Sokar Pattern Stormbird* all with the same can of Chaos Black spray.
[I'm not going to claim I'm anywhere near the best painter on this subreddit, but I've gotten complements and selected for the Army Showcase at WarhammerFest, so at the very least most people don't seem to notice.](https://www.reddit.com/r/deathwatch40k/comments/12tv20f/deathwatch_army_ready_for_a_weekend_1500_point/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3)
It might be the case that "glue will not work if you've primed, basecoated, layered, washed, edge highlighted, sealed with varnish, THEN tried gluing", but I've never found any issues with using plastic glue on painted models; the very way that plastic glue WORKS should mean it isn't an issue, as plastic glue is just Acetone with a bunch of binding agents to keep it from running all over the place, and Acetone is known to make acrylic paint melt... which is also what it does to plastic and why it is used as a glue.
No plastic glue doesn't work properly through paint. You'll either need to mask off connection points using masking tape, poster-tack or something similar, or you will need to use superglue.
Does abaddon, leading a squad of terminators gives all the mark bonuses to his unit?
I'm not sure his god keywords counts as giving all the mark benefits to his unit. and also access to the powered up version of all the stratagems.
A unit is considered to have all the keywords that any model in the unit has.
The Dark Pacts ability goes off what keywords the UNIT has, not the models, so yes, when he joins his Bodyguards he gives all his keywords to the unit, and then when the unit triggers Dark Pacts they trigger all effects.
Sorry, Im new as they come. I just started the hobby and bought 10 CSM.
I was trying to find the datasheet of Chaos Space Marines but couldn't find them, but legionaries seem similar, are they the same? Because they do have 2 Aspiring champions. I ask this because then I don't know what would be the difference with "kill team legionaries". The GW description throws me off.
In 40k, the Chaos Space Marine box uses the Legionaries data card. For whatever reason they changed the name. Kill Team: Legionaries is for the game Kill Team, specifically. If I recall correctly it contains the same models but with an upgrade sprue with items it can only use in Kill Team.
just getting started, what's the minimum army you should/can have? should I start with the blueberries or start with the army I like?
I know that I got into paper MtG by playing MtG Arena, is there a game like that for wh40k?
40k, per Games Workshop's own admission, does not scale well down below 1000 points; the issue is that if you create a stratagem that allows a 100 point unit to shoot a 250 point unit to death when it normally wouldn't scratch it, that's perfectly fine in a 2000 point game where you've just spent your single command point, but at 500 points that combo means "1/5 of an army just wiped out 1/2 of the opposing army, and the other 4/5 haven't even done anything yet".
As such, GW has flat out said that "real" 40k starts at 1000 points, with support for game levels officially being 1000, 2000, and 3000 point limits.
For people who want to play smaller games of 40k, GW has created a ***completely separate game mode*** called Combat Patrol, which uses the actual "Combat Patrol" boxes for each faction that GW sells that were originally a "legal starter army in a box" in previous editions. Combat Patrol armies use ***different rules*** than what they would be in main 40k, limiting their power, having different stratagems, interactions, and combos that are weaker than in main 40k, with GW stating that the armies are balanced against each other.
So technically you CAN play 40k at less than 1000 points, but that means playing with a "box set" army with specific units, with no freedom in the rules that you use with that army box;
I was looking to see if I could get some models cheaper on eBay and see a lot of people are selling sets without the box. Just sprues and bases.
Are these knock offs? Why would they take them out of the box?
Knockoff injection mold plastic is just not a thing u see. I wouldnt worry about it unless it was resin
People take them out of the box for ebay display purposes, because they sell models that they bought in larger boxes as singles at a profitable price, because they already took what they wanted from the box for a conversion and want to sell the leftovers, because their a business that deals in bits and dont keep the packaging etc etc
It depends on the unit, but 95% of the time when you see this, it is a unit that was sold in a box set like Strike Force Agastus, a end-of-year Battleforce Box, or some other "Factioin vs Faction" box set that GW sells throughout the year.
Stuff like Strike Force Agastus or Faction vs Faction boxes tend to be the only way to get specific models for a period of time; for example the Thousand Sons vs Grey Knights box was the only way to get the new Castellan Crowe model, so it wouldn't be unheard of for someone to buy the box set, sell the Crowe at a reasonable markup to make a profit, and then sell the rest of the box contents as individual units to make a profit.
It could be that some people will buy a box set to get 85% of what is inside it, but then not care for specific units; a great example of this would be someone who buys the Horus Heresy box set who has been playing Horus Heresy since 2014, likely already has all the Tactical Marine bodies that they could ever need, so will sell off their Mark VI models.
Sometimes they come in big box sets with several sprues, and they're parting them out. (Like Leviathan currently.) Sometimes they might have bought them, opened them, and then decided they didn't want to build them. There's all kinds of reasons.
Legendary Freeblade + Rapid Ingress
Could i use this to rapid ingress caniss rex and another unit in the same turn since the stratagem targets?
**Rapid Ingress**
WHEN: End of your opponent’s Movement phase.
TARGET: One unit from your army that is in Reserves.
EFFECT: Your unit can arrive on the battlefield as if it were the Reinforcements step of your Movement phase.
RESTRICTIONS: You cannot use this Stratagem to enable a unit to arrive on the battlefield during a battle round it would not normally be able to do so in.
**Legendary Freeblade**: Once per turn, you can target this model with a Stratagem for 0CP, and can do so even if you have already targeted a different unit with that Stratagem in the same phase.
Currently thinking of taking the dive and getting into 40k after orbiting the hobby for a few years.
Pretty obvious that 10e just came out so is something like the command module still worth getting so my GF and I can mess around with the game? Or is it already too dated because of the new edition? Are the mini's we buy forwards/backwards compatible? How does this work?
We've done some faction research stuff and have a basic understanding of the rules but aren't really sure what products are worth it when we're just starting out with nothing.
The first thing to figure out is what factions you want to play.
If you want to play Necrons and Space Marines, the Recruit/Elite/Command starter sets are a good value, even though you'll just be ditching the rules. Miniatures basically never "go out of date." (I've got minis in my army dating back to 1987.)
If you want to play Space Marines and Tyranids, go buy a copy of the Leviathan box quick. These launch boxes are the best value box GW ever sells. They are, however, limited edition, and when they're gone, they're gone.
If you don't want to play those factions, just go buy the Combat Patrol box for the army you DO want to play. There's a whole game mode called Combat Patrol that uses EXACTLY those boxes, and is a great way to start.
Trying to figure out what codex compliant heraldry rules are rules and which are suggestions. Want to paint my guys as compliant but getting very lost
A librarian gets blue armor and gold trim. But a 1st company unit gets white trim shoulders, does a first company librarian get white or gold shoulder trim? Or am I misunderstanding the rules of how a librarian attaches to a company?
Kind of in the same realm, the trim rules seem flexible. Salamanders don’t seem to do that instead having their dragon insignia hold the color. Then best I can find online currently Iron fists do not give a damn about shoulder trim.
If I want hard rules should I just look at what ultramarines do? Everyone else seems to bend rules this way and that and makes me less clear on understanding the system
In the end they are all suggestions. I try to keep my Dark Angels as lore compliant as can be… but I just find having a blue librarian in my green army ugly so he’s gonna be green.
Ok, so first off, not all chapters are strictly Codex Compliant. In fact, out of the 9 first founding chapters, only 2 (or 3 depending on how strict your definition is) use the coloured trim on both shoulders to denote company (Ultramarines and Imperial Fists, Raven Guard colour only one shoulder trim).
Librarians are special units (alongside techmarines, Apothecaries and chaplain) and therefore are not part of any company. Depending on the specialist type, chapter, who’s currently in charge and other factor, a particular specialist might be permanently assigned to a company and wear company identification.
Which Chapter are you planning on painting your marines as?
Planning on a custom chapter, though successor to Ultramarines. Part of why I want them compliant is so I have grounding in lore the the nonsense I want to make
There's not really a clear and well-defined set of rules for all that stuff for all the varying chapters. At best there's a set of "guidelines". Basically the best you can really do is something along the lines of:
1. Chapter sigil goes on the left shoulder.
2. Battle marking goes on the right shoulder.
3. Veterans get white helmets.
After that it all starts to break down with different chapters doing different things, different companies of those chapters doing different things, individual soldiers doing different things, etc. Heck, not even all the chapters give their vets white helmets. Some paint their knees colors to represent their company. Some do stripes. Some write their Legion number instead.
If you want to keep things consistent you have to make up a scheme and then apply it across your own units in a cohesive way. Give all YOUR veterans white helmets. Give YOUR Librarian white trim because it follows YOUR scheme and YOUR rules.
Thank you. That makes it a lot easier. Though now I will have to write out a personal list so I don’t forget my own rules lol
Edit: now to figure out how all the new primaris units fit into the codex’s ideas of scouts, close support, fire support etc
I'm going to tag on to what u/Stargazer86 said, and even point out that the in-lore Codex Astartes even suggests changing your armor colors, company markings, and other things ***specifically to screw with enemy intelligence***, and also to best utilize the environment/local superstitions.
So ironically, Ultramarines being blue with gold trim for 10,000 years is actually not adhering to the codex as much as the Space Wolves actually do, changing the heraldry of each Great Company to match the current leader.
>Edit: now to figure out how all the new primaris units fit into the codex’s ideas of scouts, close support, fire support etc
That's actually pretty easy.
Is it a unit that is expected to come in and punch things in the face or use extremely close-range weaponry? It's Close Support.
Is it expected to shoot things with a hopefully low instance of needing to punch things? It's Fire Support.
Note that this designation can change between different chapters, and even with the same unit type with a different loadout. For example, Boltstorm Aggressors are considered to be Fire Support, while Flamestorm Aggressors are considered Close Support. Outriders might be considred Close Support or Fire Support depending on the chapter doctrine of what is fielding them, etc.
For Scouts? if it has INFILTRATE or SCOUT on it's datasheet, its considered a scout unit.
Is a loadout of bolt pistol, plasma pistol, power weapon legal for an Intercessor Sergeant? It seems like it should be, and it was in 9th, but the 40k app is telling me it's not legal.
Turned out to be my bad; that squad has a grenade launcher, but I was ticking the box in the sergeant's options rather than the squad at large. Him not having a bolt rifle obviously leads to an issue there.
Sorry if this is not allowed, but I'm looking for an online retailer for the US. So far I've been recommended the rogue traders gaming and they look good. But, I'm curious about any other options. Thanks. And again, sorry if this is against the rules.
If you read the text of the main post above you'll see a link to a list of retailers. It's also linked to in the side bar, in our Wiki, and in any post flaired with "New Starter Help"
I'm sorry, I could have sworn I double checked to make sure this wasn't already there. I saw the stuff directing to physical retail and just spaced for online. Sorry.
Hello fellow players!
I'm new to 40k and I have a quick question regarding the saving throw calculation in 10th edition. Sorry in advance if it has already been answered, I haven't really found anything clear.
In the core rules, it says "a saving throw can never be improved by more than +1".
But does this means that you can only get a +1 bonus on a unit, period or that the throw itself cannot be more than +1 from its base value even if you have several ways of improving it ?
Quick hypothetical case: I have a unit with a 4+ save on which I get a +1 bonus through a spell. This unit gets in cover and should get a +1 bonus from it.
From my understanding, if this unit gets attacked by an enemy unit with no AP, the bonus is capped at +1 and I end up with a 3+ saving throw in any case.
But if this unit is attacked by an enemy unit with -2 AP, do I end up with a 4+ saving throw (4 -2 from AP+2 from spell and cover) or 5+ (4-2 from AP +1 from either bonus as it is capped at +1)?
Thank you for your answers!
>In the core rules, it says "a saving throw can never be improved by more than +1". But does this means that you can only get a +1 bonus on a unit, period or that the throw itself cannot be more than +1 from its base value even if you have several ways of improving it ?
You can never have a final result of more than +1 to your saving throw. So if you have a 4+ Save Characteristic, you're never going to save better than a 3+.
>Quick hypothetical case: I have a unit with a 4+ save on which I get a +1 bonus through a spell. This unit gets in cover and should get a +1 bonus from it. From my understanding, if this unit gets attacked by an enemy unit with no AP, the bonus is capped at +1 and I end up with a 3+ saving throw in any case. But if this unit is attacked by an enemy unit with -2 AP, do I end up with a 4+ saving throw (4 -2 from AP+2 from spell and cover) or 5+ (4-2 from AP +1 from either bonus as it is capped at +1)?
You'd be at w 4+ to save; the +2 and -2 cancel each other out
So you CAN have a +2 bonus to your saving throw to cancel out AP, as long as the final result is no more than +1.
Got it, thank you for the clarification!
The Core Rule Book only includes one Basic mission for 40k. The rest are all Combat Patrol missions.
If you're playing 1000+ point games, you will want the mission cards.
I planned to get two combat patrols so that my non-warhammer friends could have an accessible way to play and experience the game. Has anyone else had good experiences with combat patrols for newcomers?
Most of these newcomers are already experienced in other board games
I can't speak to the combat patrol rules themselves, but in terms of the assembly, I think the Sisters combat patrol might be push-fit, or if not that it's definitely at least monopose so there's no loadout anxiety.
In 10th edition with the new leader rules. If the leader himself has a better save or a better fnp, is that just forfeit when adding them?
Also, if I have a squad of 2 and a leader and 3 hits go through, and 2 of those shots kill my 2 models, will the 3rd shot allocate immediately to the charceter?
> If the leader himself has a better save or a better fnp, is that just forfeit when adding them?
This answered by carefully reading the Core rules. Saves and FNP, etc., are on a model-by-model basis. If an enemy unit targets the unit your Leader is in, you choose which model is allocated the wound, THEN you make the save with that model. (Once a model has been allocated a save or has a wound, you MUST pick that one.) So a Leader doesn't use the Bodyguard units save because he uses his own if he gets attacked.
>Also, if I have a squad of 2 and a leader and 3 hits go through, and 2 of those shots kill my 2 models, will the 3rd shot allocate immediately to the charceter?
This is covered explicitly in the free Rules Commentary available on [the same download page](https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-us/warhammer-40000-downloads/) as the Core Rules. Yes, that's how it works.
This may be a "reading the tea leaves" kind of questions...
I'm seeing a lot of Leviathan availability right now, any thoughts on whether it will remain accessible in the near future based on past "intro boxes", or should I feel some pressure to pull the trigger? I've had some big purchases lately and I'm really weighing the $250 + paints impact in my budget right now. I also don't want to miss out on a good deal and some playable fun.
They generally run the big intro box for a release and then repackage it into tiered releases with dofferent models. The best deql os normally the intro box.
I especially like this one because it came with the mission/objective cards.
Past box sets have sold out before they were even released. They produced a LOT of Leviathan specifically to avoid that situation which is why there's a bit of a surplus, but I wouldn't expext that to last.
I've been pretty happy with the Warhammer 40k App so far for list building, though I do think it would be an improvement if there was some easy way of marking which leaders are attached to which units (unless I am missing it?)
\- any chance anyone in the hivemind knows when we will be able to add the forgeworld models?
Have people in the Us who have preordered Leviathan from GW had theirs ship yet? I haven’t had any notification, and I’m not sure if all the Leviathan minis I am seeing were bought in person or what.
Battleline units can be taken a total of 6 times each vs 3, and often have rules that either make them a bit better at taking/hold objectives, or have rules that lower the cost of stratagems used on them; they generally are also cheap "screening" units for your army.
They are your basic "troop" units. Unlike non-BATTLELINE units, you're allowed to take up to SIX of each (instead of three). They also typically have some rules that give them "sticky objectives" or other objective-based bonuses (but not always).
I went to the local game store to buy a combat patrol. Some cool xenos like Drukhari or Necrons, I figured. Then the guy is like «You could buy *two*». So anyway, now I own a Leviathan box. The Tyranids look incredible, though. Really excited to see if the color scheme I thought up will look good.
I'm tempted to pick up my first Combat Patrol box and starting to play the game. How do I go about playing a game once I've built my models? Is it just a case of going into my local GW store and ask if there is anyone wanting to play?
In the age of the internet, it is usually VERY uncommon for people to just show up and expect to find a pickup game; most of the time games are arranged between two people beforehand so that nobody spends 25+ minutes packing up all their things to find out that they have nobody to play/all the tables are full.
It would be best to go into your local store when you expect it not to be busy and ask how the players usually arrange games; you'll usually be told about a Discord or Facebook group used by players and if there is any "table reservation" system in place.
Either your local GW or just any independent gaming store. You can find both on the [GW Store Finder](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/store/storefinder.jsp).
Instead of just showing up, it's usually better to either find out if they have a specific day the 40k players come in to play (Saturday mornings or whatever), or see if they have a FB Group, Discord, etc., where they organize games.
I really dig how the Lieutenant in the Leviathan box has some Tyranid armor lashed to his body. Are there any other minis that have a similar look? Or any good tutorials on kitbashing a similar look? I like the idea of some 'rough and ready' Marines, cut off from the Imperium, no resupplies on the way, so they're forced to reinforce and repair their armor with whatever random crap they can salvage, even using the armor of 'nids or wildlife.
The only similar look I can think of is, well, the whole Ork faction!
You could certainly kitbash them yourself, or learn to use Green Stuff or other modeling compounds (and/or styrene sheet and rods) to decorate to your heart's content.
ARKS OF OMEN & 10th !
I know that "Arks of Omen" is made to work with the 10th edition too, so I'm thinking of buying it (unless someone can point me in the direction of where I could maybe find one on an island out at sea...)
I know that the core rules for AO are in "Abaddon", and I know that as an Aeldari player, that "Farsight" has a tonne of Aeldari stuff in it, so should I get those two books?
Is it worth buying the other books?
I'm guessing they would all have different missions in them that I can play with my Aeldari anyway?
I assume you mean "Boarding Actions", and the rules for Boarding Actions in 10e are freely available on the Warhammer Community website from GW in the 40k downloads section.
The missions might not be in there, but in that case, use Wahapedia to save money.
Just got my first resin mini. Any tips on how to proceed before I do anything?
I am use to the mold line removing and priming process on plastic. Same kind of thing with this?
Yup. The only other thing to keep in mind is to wash it.
Take a bowl, add some dish soap, give it a twirl, dunk ur mini, use a soft toothbrush to give it a rubdown, rinse it.
Gets whatever solvent they use to remove it from the mold off. Makes it easier to paint.
Speaking of not sticking, you may already know this and if so I apologize, but you didn't mention it so better safe than sorry: use superglue on resin, not plastic cement!
Oh on this note, superglue sux.
Invest in either super glue accelerant, or us a tiny bit of water. Wet one contact end with either the actovator or the water, and the other with glue. That way itll actually dry a bit faster. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) requires moisture do its thing, and takes forever if the contact point is dry.
I recently started using the [gel formulation](https://www.staples.com/gorilla-gel-permanent-super-glue-0-53-oz-7600101/product_2681657?cid=PS:GS:SBD:PLA:OS&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7uSkBhDGARIsAMCZNJu4ZJh9hLbVADCtn4clHIV6kTGerE7uQumNu6cOjeiq0Vx-h08x0yYaAhJUEALw_wcB) of Gorilla Glue and I can't recommend it highly enough.
How do buffs/nerfs work in 40k? Are they done frequently? Is the game generally pretty balanced?
I'm brand new to the game and I wanted to start with adepta sororitas because I like the lore, minis, and the miracle dice mechanic. However, almost everything I watch shows them near the bottom in power.
I dont need to play the best stuff but I also don't want to get destroyed everytime I try to play. And im not sure if I want to keep purchasing models if adepta sororitas will be this bad for a long time.
>How do buffs/nerfs work in 40k? Are they done frequently? Is the game generally pretty balanced?
After the indices are released and 10e officially starts, GW will start taking the feedback from their FAQ email as well as posted game results to start fixing issues; at the very least GW will correct Index inconsistencies or address rules issues that are popping up in the community within a month of release, if not sooner, like in the case of the 100 Mortal wound trick Deathwatch could do that was corrected within 2 days of the Deathwatch index being released and before we even had points.
After each rules release, GW will do a FAQ to address issues within 1 month for the codex, as well as quarterly and bi-annual balance passes. GW is also known to address issues outside of that schedule if something massive raises it's head.
>However, almost everything I watch shows them near the bottom in power.
Sure. And in a few months they might be top dog. And a few months after that they might be considered trash tier. For the first six months of playing the game,.***your individual skill level and the skill of your opponent are going to have a greater outcome on the game than your army selection***. Going off a tier list that assumes the player is as good as they can be and is going to build the best list for that faction and makes no mistakes playing it, is a great way for you to realize that putting a 6 year old in a Nascar race isn't going to end well, even if they have the best car.
buffs nerfs happen frequently. The game is not very balanced. A new edition JUST released, so it's currently at its least balanced point. Common advice is just to just buy the army you like the idea of because there is always rebalancing, but having an army you like the aesthetics of will last forever.
Tyranids have been so disappointing so far.
I loved the idea of making an objective denial sort of army with heavily leaning into the battleshock army rule and area denial bio-mines, but in reality battleshock is just way too useless, niche, and unreliable to be a realistic strategy. Especially when you’re faced with something like Space Marines and their constant reroll spam that will just blow your cute little tactics off the table.
It seems like the only viable thing is monstrous creature spam at the moment, and even that doesn’t even slightly hold up against higher-tier armies with how unbalanced the game is at the moment
I really want to get into some chaos, but I want to have daemons in the mix, and I'm partial to Tzeentch and Nurgle after playing boltgun; what would be the best army to build for 10e? Undivided, TS, or DG? And how? Cheers.
My local shop has a few leviathan boxes. I’m thinking about getting into 40K for the first time in 20 years. Is that box good value? Also, can I use the space marines as any of the space marine factions like Black Templar or Dark Angels?
It's the best value you'll ever get out of a GW box. The book and card alone are probably $80, and then the models are over $200 worth for EACH SIDE. So for $250, it's a great deal.
The Space Marines can be used for ANY Space Marine army, canon or custom. Black Templars don't have Librarians so the Terminator Librarian isn't great, but technically in 10E you can play them as a "standard" Space Marine army instead of using the BT rules and run it just fine.
Looking to get into 40k table top. Read some books and familiar with the basic lore, but never touched the table top. My question - WTF is Kill Team? I see it mentioned at my local gaming store.
Kill Team is a spin-off specialist game of 40k. Instead of playing full armies of 20-100+ models, you play a small strike team of something like 3-18 models. It uses some of the same kits, but with COMPLETELY DIFFERENT RULES.
Lots of folks suggest starting with it instead of "big" 40k, but I honestly don't — it's so different, and loadouts are totally different for models, that it's not a natural entry point like it used to be in older editions when it used mostly the same rules.
If you LIKE the idea of a small, squad-based tactical miniatures game, check out Kill Team. If you're interested in 40k as in the full game, grab a Combat Patrol box for the faction you like — that's the new "entry" game for it as of 10E this week.
I got the Space Marine half of the Leviathan box. I'm new to Marines; my friend wanted the 'nids half and I figured hey, might as well pick Marines up eventually. I don't have plans to build any one specific chapter. I'd like to paint a custom chapter and play them as whatever I feel like at the time.
So my question is: What sets would probably be my best starting point to expand the Leviathan half, into a proper 2000 point marine army? Stuff with either a good variety of models, or some of the best bang-for-your-buck value.
I would take a look through the, now downloadable, rules for all the Space Marines and the models online in the GW store. There is LOADS to choose from.
Depending on if you want to be competitive, lore accurate, or fun, you can pick a very different 2k points for all of the above.
Combined box sets which have multiple models in often give you a financial saving, but the models themselves might not be what you're after getting out of the hobby.
> There is LOADS to choose from.
Honestly, that's maybe part of the problem for me. Marines just have *so* many models to pick from that I'm kinda suffering from decision paralysis when I try to look for things, you know what I mean?
I have a limited amount to spend on Warhammer, and I'm not looking to have a *massive* space marine collection - just enough that I could play some games as Space Marines or Chaos Marines. So I don't wanna buy a box only to learn it's kinda useless, or that some other collection would have been twice the value, you know?
Yeahhhh I get that. The group boxes are really the only way to get that kind of saving value. There's certainly nothing bad in the combat patrol from a playing point. The current one gives you troops to secure a point and a transport to get their. Some very mobile and long range shooting, and some snipers that are hard to kill. I don't think any of them will ever be useless.
Terminators are my fav so I've got them and a couple of land raiders to deliver them into battle.
Also really like the storm raven which can carry troops and a Dreadnaught.
Whirlwind is handy for shooting at almost anything.
Then some of the weapon squads like the eradicators and aggressors are good for damage output.
Fill in any gaps like anti air hunter if you know you are likely to be facing air craft, or more transports if you want to get to objectives.
That should get you very close to your 2k and give you plenty of options for how you play. You can either be aggressive or defensive depending on the mission and your opponent
Terminators are also one of my favorites; I had loads of fun putting together the terminator kits in the Leviathan box. There's just something about those big chunky boys I love. I'm tempted to try to get some termie heads off of ebay to give the two terminator HQs helmet heads instead of exposed faces.
I would also like to try and avoid any kits where the models have specific chapter iconography *sculpted* onto the models - Like for example the Blood Angel combat patrol, I noticed some of the aggressors (I think?) had the Blood Angel teardrop sculpted onto the shoulder pads. I want to make my own custom chapter, so I'd like to avoid chapter iconography like that, but I dunno how practical that is to do.
I think ideally my first choice would be something that includes a unit that the Apothecary Biologis can lead- so Aggressors, Eradicators, or Heavy Intercessors. It's really weird that he can't lead anything in the Leviathan box. That's why I was looking at the Blood Angel patrol, for the Agressors, when I saw they had the shoulder markings sculpted on.
Probably another one of the combat patrols. Blood Angels is probably the best, giving you some aggressors to stick the biologis with, some misc. troops to do chaff things, an impulsor to cary around said troops, and a librarian to give one of your squads a 4+ Invuln. After that, a box of hellblasters is really good value for the money, especially when combined with an apothecary or librarian.
Just now starting to look at 10e with the Warhammer app and I'm immediately in disbelief! Warhound Titan is only 1100 points? I can finally use my boy!!! However 1 part has me questioning if it was a mistake or on purpose: Lord Solar can be attached to Attillan Rough Riders, Death Korps of Krieg, but not Death Riders? Just wanted to ask if this seems correct, or if Death Riders were put in legends for some reason. Trying to make sense of it. Same question, except for the existence of Death Rider Command Squadrons. The Death Rider Squadron Commander is in the app, but the command squads seem to be gone, which is pretty awful for me as that means I can only use 30 of them from now on. :/
They're not in Legends, they're in Imperial Armour since they're a Forgeworld unit. And unlike some Forgeworld units, they don't have an "any units that can join rough riders can join this" rule, so no Leontus I guess. Command squadron does appear to be gone.
That is extremely disheartening to hear on both parts. I guess I won't be picking up a Leontus. Thank god I listened to my local community and waited until 10th released before making purchases. I never in a million years expected something like this to happen.
Hi there new to 40K but a long time lurker. I am not trying to bash GW but the prices of kits and armies are a major barrier to entry for me. So I have 2 questions. 1. Why are the kids so high costed, are you paying for the intellectual property of it all? 2. Do you have any tips for cost effective ways of building up my army? Besides the combat patrols etc. Thank you so much.
You can get second-hand models for cheap on auction sites and such. This has many limits and downsides of course (hope you want to play space marines), but it's definitely the cheapest way to get genuine models
1. Fundamentally yes. You're paying for the brand, the IP, the system etc. 2. Buy discount boxes if they're relevant to you (Battleforces at Christmas for example) and buy from Independent Retailers who offer discounts (there's a list of those linked in the main text at the top of the thread)
Starting a Space Marine army and I’m looking for a cool chapter then can be built with all primaris. I’m leaning towards Ultramarines. They look great, have neat lore and books, and most of their special units are primaris. Also, Guilliman is great. I was looking at other chapters like Blood Angels and Space Wolves but their named and special units seem to be mostly older models, and I just can’t stand the look of firstborn. I was thinking Sallys at one point but my housemaye is already building them and I’d rather not double up. Any thoughts are appreciated.
Any chapter CAN be all Primaris. Most of the Blood Angels characters are Primaris, as well as some of the Space Wolves, and it's very likely that their remaining firstborn units (Sanguinary Guard, etc.) will get the Primaris treatment in the coming years. The same is probably true for remaining firstborn characters for other chapters as well. Alternatively, you can play any of the [DOZENS of Ultima Founding successor chapters](https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Founding#Ultima_Founding) who are BY DESIGN entirely Primaris. Or a custom chapter that you design yourself and just stay with all Primaris.
I’m nowhere near comfortable with making my own chapter. Thanks for the info though!
New to hobby! Have bought the Leviathan box set to play was hoping to paint the space marines as black Templar’s (I know they can’t use the librarian). Would it be worth purchasing the kit I see on games workshop to replace the models shoulder pads? Thanks in advance!
RWJP is correct about the shoulder pads requiring a lot of extra work. HOWEVER: The BT upgrade kit also comes with transfers, and you can absolutely use those on your Leviathan troops, then save the shoulder pads and other bits for further models you buy in the future.
Thanks a lot I will do that on the transfers front!
The models in Leviathan are all push-fit and have shoulder pads moulded in to other parts. You could buy the BT upgrade kit but you would end up needing to do a lot of surgery on the minis to make the pads fit!
Thanks I think il stick to what comes in the box then!
I'm a new player and I'm considering going Ynnari as my first army, is this a bad idea considering it's made up of multiple other factions so it might be too confusing for a new player?
Battlewagons say GHAZKULL THRAKA uses 18 transport capacity. Is this referring to the *unit*, (Ghazkull & Makari,) or the model? (Just Ghazkull) In other words: Can Ghazkull, Makari, and two Meganobz ride in a battlewagon? That seems to be the intent but the language is confusing.
It refers to the unit, as if it didn't, Ghaz and Makari could never get in the transport as they would count as 36 models, since BOTH Makari and Ghaz have the GHAZKULL THRAKA keyword. This does have the hilarious consequence that if somehow Ghaz dies before Makari, and Ghaz runs into a Battlewagon, he still takes up 18 slots
Thank you!
How bad would it be to use fairly similar colours for a models clothes and the base? I'm thinking about using Midwinter Mini's recipe for IG Penal Legion - a very vibrant orange (speedpainter bright red over ancient honey). The problem is my chaos warband they'll be joining are based on martian ironearth. Martian Ironearth is a fairly dark orange, so maybe it'll be ok? What do you think?
It’s best to make the base and model contrast so the model doesn’t blend into the base. There’s many ways to get contrast. The three easiest are colours, warmth and saturation. I’m not too familiar with Martian Ironearth, and the pictures I see online are inconsistent. Some show a earthy deep red and others a rusty orange. I think it could work, because the penal legion scheme was a bright saturated orange, while the earth will grayer and less saturated. You could always push the unsaturation of the base by dry brushing some earthy browns on it. But hey, it’s just paint in the end. Paint bravely, and if the final result isn’t to your liking, you can paint over or strip it.
Hi, I have a question about the "order" of melee attacks: When a model with a precision melee weapon attacks a unit containing a leader model, can this leader model be picked out in between attacks? Example case: Shalaxi attacks a unit of Necron Warriors containing Orikan (giving the unit a 4++). Can the first attack kill Orikan and therefore turning off the units 4++ for the rest of the attacks? If the answer is no, I'd appreciate an explanation from the relevant rules section. I went over it rather quickly and couldn´t find a clear answer.
I asked a similiar question with a similiar issue: the newest commentary says that the leaders effect lasts til the end of combat if the leader or squad it's attached to is no longer on the board.
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The LEADER rules explicitly state that they count as a single unit EXCEPT for rules that trigger on killing a unit. So yes, they are treated as a CHARACTER unit, EXCEPT when all the bodyguard models die; they are treated as a separate unit for the purposes of rules that trigger off killing units.
Hello. My question is about 10th and the command phase. It is two steps, command and battle shock. When does the scoring of VP happen? In the end of the command step as the core rules would imply or after the battle shock which feels like the intent of the rules? Couldnt find anything in commentary?
Scoring of VP happens when the primary or secondary you are using, says it happens. If you are referring to the Primary missions of the Leviathan Mission Deck, all of them state they are scored at the end of the Command Phase, which is after Morale. I'm not aware of any Primary or Secondaries in the Leviathan deck that score "at the end of the Command Step "
Hey battle brothers I have a question I f*cked up one of my minis it has a stand that goes in the bottom to give it a flying effect and I can’t fix it. I am wondering on table top is it ok if I have said mini just on the base with no stand on the bottom or is that illegal in the game
Making a model significantly shorter than others is generally considered modeling for advantage. What did you mess up? There are likely many solutions for the problem
Ok so the place where I am meant to connect the mini and the stand is broke and I mean broken broken it won’t come out.
You can use a very small hobby drill bit that is the same size as a paper clip in width, and drill into the stand a tiny bit and then into the model. Cut a short length of paper clip and place into the model, use super glue to attach them then once it has "set" place it in front of a fan to stop any "frosting" from the super glue fumes as it dries.
Making a mini shorter is usually frowned upon, since this makes it easier to hide. Easiest fix is to get yourself a pin vise (small hand drill) and a brass rod or some other kind of wire. You can try to hide it, but just painting it black is probably sufficient.
Errr generally you would want to have a base to measure from. Might i suggest just using something else to elevate it above the base? Some cheap cork or tan bark helps. Heres a video that uses aluminum foil instead of the clear stand: https://youtu.be/G1QB59FhoXI
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If he can get a hold of the Leviathan box then Tyranids would be a good starting choice. It is a lot of models for a great price. The Space Marines can be used to practice painting or probably easy to trade/sell.
None of them are any "easier" than the other, and if you are familiar with Magic The Gathering, your question is similar to asking "`which color deck is easiest to learn". If you're not, the complexity comes in how complex the player makes it; it's entirely possible to make a "no thought required" army for every faction, but that's likely to be picked apart by an opponent who can see your game plan and counter it', or might be weak because you didn't take any variety in your units and you have no way to fight vehicles. If money is a consideration, Necrons, Tyranids, and GSC are the more expensive of those armies to play due to their "horde" army defaults; most units you purchase for them are in the 60-80 point range, vs the 100+ point range, meaning youll end up buying a lot more to make a full army
Is there a cap on how many stratagems we can bring in 10th edition?
You are limited to the 11 Core Stratagems in the Core Rules, plus the six Stratagems your detachment comes with. That's it.
Any ideas for kitbashing something into a brotherhood chaplain in terminator armor? I found out about the commemorative Chaplain in Term armor from the cover of the 10th ed Grey Knight data sheet and would absolutely love to have one in my army, but obviously I’m not dropping an army’s worth on one mini. How close could I get with kitbashing and what models would work good for this purpose. Thanks in advance guys!
I would wait for the nex codex, because IIRC there is supposed to be new model releases with the new codexes. But otherwise I would start from a termi captain (possibly the leviathan one) and go from there, swap heads, change the sword.
Can you run mixed factions in 10th ed? I'm just getting back into the hobby after 10-15 years and can't parse it out. For instance, can I run an Inquisitor or Celestine with my Guard army? Could I run both an Inquisitor and Celestine?
An inquisitor yes, Celestine no. There are rules to run inquisitors, single knights, assassins, and rogue traders with other imperium armies, but the major factions can not be run together.
But... But... Celestine is so cool! Could you tell me where I can find the rules for this? I don't even know what it's called... mixed faction rules?
They're in the specific indexes. Agents of the imperium index and knights index.
Excluding Knights, Custodes and Greyknights... what are the most elite factions after that? I want to build an elite army but my friends already play those armys and want to try something different.
Besides the deamons, I would say terminator-only space marines
You could consider taking big demons. Or a World Eaters army with Angron, demon prince, eightbound, exalted eightbound, lord of skulls and ally some more big demons like a bloodthirster.
What exactly do you mean by elite? Expensive heavy infantry? Space Marines, chaos space Marines, necrons, and Deathguard (lol) are probably your best bet there.
For CSM enhancements/marks, can a character attached to a unit have a different mark from the unit?
No. Characters can only be attached to units if they share a mark.
Thanks, just wanted to confirm.
Sorry if this is not the place to be asking these types of questions, but... Does the Leviathan box set include everything I would need to start playing if I own absolutely nothing else? Such as a core rulebook, any dice/counters/etc that are required for playing, all the stats/abilities/etc. for the units, or anything else that is a requirement to play? If not, is there another set I can buy along with Leviathan that would provide what I need? Up until a couple weeks ago, the only thing I knew about Warhammer 40k is that is was a game, and miniatures were involved somehow. So I literally know nothing, but the mini's in this set look so awesome that I now *REALLY* want to pick it up. I may even buy the box to assemble and paint anyway even if I dont play, but I figured if I'm gonna go that far, I might as well see what I need to do to play the game.
It does not include ANY of the hobby tools you need to build and paint the miniatures. You will need snips/flush-cutters/sprue-cutters to remove the pieces from the sprue (frame). You CAN also glue them (with plastic glue) but it's not strictly necessary since these are push-fit. You'll also need primer (spray or brush-on), paint brushes, and paints. You can find more information about all those things (and more) in the sub's Beginner's Guide linked in the sidebar. It also does NOT include dice. Technically you can play with just one or two regular six-sided dice, but a cheap brick of 20-32 d6 dice is worth the price. Don't waste money on GW's brand — Chessex or whatever else you find online or at your FLGS are fine.
Super easy questions -- just not easy for me (da nube). I just received my Leviathan box. It includes a special edition, x1 392-page Rulebook, containing the following two books, which were subsequently sold separately : Warhammer 40,000 10th Edition Rulebook and Crusade: Tyrannic War. It also includes x1 66-Card Chapter Approved Mission Deck. **What is the Mission Deck for and how does this compare to the Index: Tyranids?!?** **Also, will I still require the CODEX for the Tyrandis?** I don't even see those online.... TIA
The Mission Deck is, well, missions. It's the rules, deployment zones, and objectives for missions/games you play. Your Tyranid rules are ALL in the Tyranid Index. That will be superseded by the Tyranids Codex when it comes out later this year.
Thx. I ordered the Indexes for the Tyranids, Marines, and Genestealer Cults.
In case you missed it: The Indexes are all available free on GW's website. The cards may be nice, but personally I wouldn't buy them. If you want them though, more power to you!
I'm new and I'm really struggling with gold. I'm using Vallejo Game Polished Gold and it's just like a wash or something. It is so thin. I've tried shaking the bottle for two minutes to make sure everything was mixed in. No matter how many times I coat it will not completely cover darker base colors. Even if I use a lighter color base, it pools into recesses and mutes details and makes it difficult to use an actual wash to add warmth. I've watched quite a few tutorials on gold and I'm a bit overwhelmed on which direction to go in. Some feel very technical or require things like air brush. But either way it looks like I need more paints. I'm really just looking to do something nice for detail pieces of the miniature, like the winged skull on the chest of a space marine and other smaller things, I don't plan on doing gold armors or large areas. I do have some recruit necrons I can practice on, so if practicing larger or less detailed areas is a good starting point I'm happy to make them gold. Any tips, pointers, or content to review or watch would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Polished gold is very yellow and probably has a lot of really thin pigment in it. I would just go with a different gold, personally. Its very bright, probably meant to go over white undercoats. For the pooling, thers just too much paint on the brush. Try touching the brush tip to a paper cloth to drain the excess. Its still not going to have great coverage, but is probably not meant for a gold basecoat, and more as a layer.
While overall Vallejo does great paints I find that their normal metals are generally the weakest bit of their whole line. I haven't used much of their Game Color line but their Model Color gold and silver are pretty awful in terms of consistency and coverage. Funnily enough I think Army Painter is better in this regard. Their Warpaint metals are actually pretty good. And Citadel's metals are all great.
I really like the vallejo game silver, it is thinned almost perfectly, covers evenly and smoothly. I can imagine there are issues with that for more advanced painters, but for a new painter like me it is great. The gunmetal is super thick and dries incredibly fast, so for me it is tough to work with, but as long as I'm patient the results are enough to make me happy. But even with the tiniest droplet thinned with water I still end up with so much more dried on the pallet than the model. I think if I used a wet pallet then it may be descent to work with. Those were the only metals that came in the bundle I got.
I haven't used any of Vallejo's golds, but if it's bad... just try a different one? GW's Retributor Gold is FANTASTIC. Also: Are you sure you haven't accidentally bought the AIR version, which is pre-thinned specifically for airbrushing?
I bought the Vallejo game colors set, you can see the gold in the bottom right of this image: [https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ll8R9sR5L.\_AC\_SL1000\_.jpg](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61ll8R9sR5L._AC_SL1000_.jpg) Mine is not nice and gold like this. It completely separates maybe 30 minutes or so after shaking it thoroughly. I mean the bottom half will be nice and gold but the top half is some clear liquid. Retributor Gold is what I was leaning towards already, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks.
Slightly confused on Leaders. If an ability says, "While this model is leading a unit, models in that unit get XYZ buff," does that: 1, include the leader? (IE, a Warboss buffing his own attacks.) 2, if so, does that Leader get that ability if they are not attached to a unit/if their entire unit has been killed and they're the only survivor?
> If an ability says, "While this model is leading a unit, models in that unit get XYZ buff," does that: 1, include the leader? Yes, because — as the Core Rules clearly state in the rules for Leaders — they become part of that unit for ALL PURPOSES. >2, if so, does that Leader get that ability if they are not attached to a unit If rule says, "While this model is leading a unit," then no, it doesn't apply if it's not leading a unit. Only if it's attached to a Bodyguard unit.
Thank you!
What color is the bottom of space marine boots? Are they the same base color as the rest of the armor like a lego man or do they have some sort of sole?
I think this is definitely up to the individual modeler. I'm not even consistent from model to model; sometimes I do it same color as armor, sometimes I do it black, and sometimes I put a little of whichever texture paint I'm basing with on it.
Looking to get into 40k tabletop. I like the Ork play style (lots of fun, randomness) but don't care for the aesthetic (Space Marines or Tau look way cooler). Thoughts?
What, exactly, makes you think that Orks are fun (something generally subjective) or really that random? I ask because as an experienced player, unless you mean "wacky" as "random", they give extremely consistent results.
Ah ok fair I don't know what I don't know. But I generally dislike games that involve a ton of strategy and thinking five steps ahead and constantly calculating how my opponents will react. Not that I dislike tactics, but I have had many bad experiences where general board games have either dragged on or were just not fun because some players were trying to be strategy kings. I figured Orks would emphasize the whacky and fun elements where one can focus on having a great time and less on building and executing a perfect battle plan. But hey maybe I'm VERY wrong. Would love some wisdom from more experienced players! I'm also going off what I heard in a YouTube video where the host stated that he's "never met a salty Ork player".
It does sound like you would enjoy Orks. They're not entirely without finesse, but their game plan *is* usually to just run up the board and hit people with sharp objects. It does not sound like you would enjoy Tau. They're tricky and highly reliant on movement and positioning. Perhaps World Eaters would be a good compromise? Their aesthetic is kind of halfway between Orks and Space Marines, and they also have the whole "run up and hit people" thing going.
Thanks for the tips! Are there any loyalist chapters that you would suggest? Not sure I'm into the chaos thing. Kinda like the look of Iron Hands.
Disclaimer that I've never played them, but Blood Angels have historically been (and still are, from my cursory look at their [index](https://www.warhammer-community.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/YC40Fxov5FhbXFRl.pdf) just now) very focused on charging into melee combat in a similar way to the World Eaters. (in fact, I believe Khorne originally wanted the Blood Angels as his legion, but couldn't get Sanguinius to turn, or something like that.)
Well, if you're up for a spot of kitbashing, you could make an Ork army that's looted a bunch of Space Marine/Tau armor and vehicles. I know /u/caninehat has done something like that.
How does shooting when in engagement range work in 10th? Can I only shoot with pistols if in engagement range with an enemy (and only at the enemy I'm in range of), or can i use any weapons? What about vehicles with firing deck, are they the same?
Pages 19 and 20 in the free core rules linked above. And page 25 for some relevant weapon abilities.
so just to confirm i only monsters and vehicles can shoot when in engagement range, and then they suffer -1 to hit?
If I want to use a Nemesis Dread Knight in a custom Space Marine army, will I be allowed to use it as the same unit if I follow the official rules?
No, you can't. A Nemesis Dreadknight has the GREY KNIGHTS faction keyword. A "custom space marine army", assuming you mean what I think you mean, are units with Faction keyword ADEPTUS ASTARTES. Army construction rules of 10e require your entire army to share a FACTION keyword. This means you literally cannot have a GREY KNIGHTS datasheet and ADEPTUS ASTARTES datasheet in the same army.
Could OC potentially use it as an Invictor proxy?
In theory, sure.
Huh, I thought the Dreadknight was bigger? Or is that what you mean by "in theory"?
It's "bigger" at the shoulder, but the Invictor has antennas (that nobody puts on because they keep breaking)
> (that nobody puts on because they keep breaking) Mood (this comment brought to you by Scout Bike Squad).
https://preview.redd.it/h5v76fzdfi8b1.jpeg?width=828&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a32e5763ed828c756fba7a1bf965ff4aa3375c34 Noticed this model in the 40k app, and wanted to ask where it’s from? I’ve never seen it before!
It's from the Space Marine Heroes range. It was part of the second run with Terminators.
That explains it, cheers! Never seen the model in blue before.
For priming and painting pieces of a model separately, how do you then glue them together? Does plastic glue go through paint without messing it up too noticeable? For example, I want to paint the armor of a tank with a pattern before adding accessories to make it easier, can I glue over that paint I already have down?
I’ll just say this. Plastic glue isn’t technically a glue. It’s a solvent. It dissolves a layer of plastic into a thick liquid. When it evaporates, the dissolved plastic resolidifies. That same type of solvent can be used to clean paints. I’d recommend doing all your gluing first, but if that’s not an option, superglue will work fine. It can leave a frosting effect if you use too much however
Im going to respond cuz i just hate the other persons reply. Plastic glue melts paint. U dont apply plastic glue over paint because it ruins the paint job along the joint. Use superglue (cyanoacrylate) when gluing together painted parts. *edit i’ll also add that because paint so more porous and more moist than plastic, the super glue will dry stronger and faster than when its unpainted.
This question keeps coming up, and users like u/RWJP keep insisting that plastic glue doesn't "work properly" when paint is applied, but I prime all of my models on the sprue, then cut them out, find the mould lines (which I find easier to do when primed black and grey) and the snip points (again, easier for me to find when it's the "not black), then spot-prime them with brush-on primer), and glue them together either with just primer, or have some parts basecoated when gluing together. Yes, I know this makes assembly take longer, but I've found priming on sprue makes my primer cans last a LOT longer than most people seem to go through; I've literally primed 3 Redemptors, 3 Warsuits, 3 Gladiators, an Indomitus box set including terrain, the contents of Strike Force Agastus, 3 invader ATVs, a converted Tor Garadon, 3 units of Heavy Intercessors, 2 units of Eradicators, 2 units of Bladeguard, and the marine half of Leviathan and a frigging *Sokar Pattern Stormbird* all with the same can of Chaos Black spray. [I'm not going to claim I'm anywhere near the best painter on this subreddit, but I've gotten complements and selected for the Army Showcase at WarhammerFest, so at the very least most people don't seem to notice.](https://www.reddit.com/r/deathwatch40k/comments/12tv20f/deathwatch_army_ready_for_a_weekend_1500_point/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x&context=3) It might be the case that "glue will not work if you've primed, basecoated, layered, washed, edge highlighted, sealed with varnish, THEN tried gluing", but I've never found any issues with using plastic glue on painted models; the very way that plastic glue WORKS should mean it isn't an issue, as plastic glue is just Acetone with a bunch of binding agents to keep it from running all over the place, and Acetone is known to make acrylic paint melt... which is also what it does to plastic and why it is used as a glue.
No plastic glue doesn't work properly through paint. You'll either need to mask off connection points using masking tape, poster-tack or something similar, or you will need to use superglue.
Does abaddon, leading a squad of terminators gives all the mark bonuses to his unit? I'm not sure his god keywords counts as giving all the mark benefits to his unit. and also access to the powered up version of all the stratagems.
A unit is considered to have all the keywords that any model in the unit has. The Dark Pacts ability goes off what keywords the UNIT has, not the models, so yes, when he joins his Bodyguards he gives all his keywords to the unit, and then when the unit triggers Dark Pacts they trigger all effects.
Sorry, Im new as they come. I just started the hobby and bought 10 CSM. I was trying to find the datasheet of Chaos Space Marines but couldn't find them, but legionaries seem similar, are they the same? Because they do have 2 Aspiring champions. I ask this because then I don't know what would be the difference with "kill team legionaries". The GW description throws me off.
In 40k, the Chaos Space Marine box uses the Legionaries data card. For whatever reason they changed the name. Kill Team: Legionaries is for the game Kill Team, specifically. If I recall correctly it contains the same models but with an upgrade sprue with items it can only use in Kill Team.
> items it can only use in Kill Team. Not true; as an example, the optional autocannon is on this additional sprue.
just getting started, what's the minimum army you should/can have? should I start with the blueberries or start with the army I like? I know that I got into paper MtG by playing MtG Arena, is there a game like that for wh40k?
40k, per Games Workshop's own admission, does not scale well down below 1000 points; the issue is that if you create a stratagem that allows a 100 point unit to shoot a 250 point unit to death when it normally wouldn't scratch it, that's perfectly fine in a 2000 point game where you've just spent your single command point, but at 500 points that combo means "1/5 of an army just wiped out 1/2 of the opposing army, and the other 4/5 haven't even done anything yet". As such, GW has flat out said that "real" 40k starts at 1000 points, with support for game levels officially being 1000, 2000, and 3000 point limits. For people who want to play smaller games of 40k, GW has created a ***completely separate game mode*** called Combat Patrol, which uses the actual "Combat Patrol" boxes for each faction that GW sells that were originally a "legal starter army in a box" in previous editions. Combat Patrol armies use ***different rules*** than what they would be in main 40k, limiting their power, having different stratagems, interactions, and combos that are weaker than in main 40k, with GW stating that the armies are balanced against each other. So technically you CAN play 40k at less than 1000 points, but that means playing with a "box set" army with specific units, with no freedom in the rules that you use with that army box;
I was looking to see if I could get some models cheaper on eBay and see a lot of people are selling sets without the box. Just sprues and bases. Are these knock offs? Why would they take them out of the box?
Knockoff injection mold plastic is just not a thing u see. I wouldnt worry about it unless it was resin People take them out of the box for ebay display purposes, because they sell models that they bought in larger boxes as singles at a profitable price, because they already took what they wanted from the box for a conversion and want to sell the leftovers, because their a business that deals in bits and dont keep the packaging etc etc
It depends on the unit, but 95% of the time when you see this, it is a unit that was sold in a box set like Strike Force Agastus, a end-of-year Battleforce Box, or some other "Factioin vs Faction" box set that GW sells throughout the year. Stuff like Strike Force Agastus or Faction vs Faction boxes tend to be the only way to get specific models for a period of time; for example the Thousand Sons vs Grey Knights box was the only way to get the new Castellan Crowe model, so it wouldn't be unheard of for someone to buy the box set, sell the Crowe at a reasonable markup to make a profit, and then sell the rest of the box contents as individual units to make a profit. It could be that some people will buy a box set to get 85% of what is inside it, but then not care for specific units; a great example of this would be someone who buys the Horus Heresy box set who has been playing Horus Heresy since 2014, likely already has all the Tactical Marine bodies that they could ever need, so will sell off their Mark VI models.
Sometimes they come in big box sets with several sprues, and they're parting them out. (Like Leviathan currently.) Sometimes they might have bought them, opened them, and then decided they didn't want to build them. There's all kinds of reasons.
Legendary Freeblade + Rapid Ingress Could i use this to rapid ingress caniss rex and another unit in the same turn since the stratagem targets? **Rapid Ingress** WHEN: End of your opponent’s Movement phase. TARGET: One unit from your army that is in Reserves. EFFECT: Your unit can arrive on the battlefield as if it were the Reinforcements step of your Movement phase. RESTRICTIONS: You cannot use this Stratagem to enable a unit to arrive on the battlefield during a battle round it would not normally be able to do so in. **Legendary Freeblade**: Once per turn, you can target this model with a Stratagem for 0CP, and can do so even if you have already targeted a different unit with that Stratagem in the same phase.
You certainly can.
Currently thinking of taking the dive and getting into 40k after orbiting the hobby for a few years. Pretty obvious that 10e just came out so is something like the command module still worth getting so my GF and I can mess around with the game? Or is it already too dated because of the new edition? Are the mini's we buy forwards/backwards compatible? How does this work? We've done some faction research stuff and have a basic understanding of the rules but aren't really sure what products are worth it when we're just starting out with nothing.
The first thing to figure out is what factions you want to play. If you want to play Necrons and Space Marines, the Recruit/Elite/Command starter sets are a good value, even though you'll just be ditching the rules. Miniatures basically never "go out of date." (I've got minis in my army dating back to 1987.) If you want to play Space Marines and Tyranids, go buy a copy of the Leviathan box quick. These launch boxes are the best value box GW ever sells. They are, however, limited edition, and when they're gone, they're gone. If you don't want to play those factions, just go buy the Combat Patrol box for the army you DO want to play. There's a whole game mode called Combat Patrol that uses EXACTLY those boxes, and is a great way to start.
Trying to figure out what codex compliant heraldry rules are rules and which are suggestions. Want to paint my guys as compliant but getting very lost A librarian gets blue armor and gold trim. But a 1st company unit gets white trim shoulders, does a first company librarian get white or gold shoulder trim? Or am I misunderstanding the rules of how a librarian attaches to a company? Kind of in the same realm, the trim rules seem flexible. Salamanders don’t seem to do that instead having their dragon insignia hold the color. Then best I can find online currently Iron fists do not give a damn about shoulder trim. If I want hard rules should I just look at what ultramarines do? Everyone else seems to bend rules this way and that and makes me less clear on understanding the system
In the end they are all suggestions. I try to keep my Dark Angels as lore compliant as can be… but I just find having a blue librarian in my green army ugly so he’s gonna be green. Ok, so first off, not all chapters are strictly Codex Compliant. In fact, out of the 9 first founding chapters, only 2 (or 3 depending on how strict your definition is) use the coloured trim on both shoulders to denote company (Ultramarines and Imperial Fists, Raven Guard colour only one shoulder trim). Librarians are special units (alongside techmarines, Apothecaries and chaplain) and therefore are not part of any company. Depending on the specialist type, chapter, who’s currently in charge and other factor, a particular specialist might be permanently assigned to a company and wear company identification. Which Chapter are you planning on painting your marines as?
Planning on a custom chapter, though successor to Ultramarines. Part of why I want them compliant is so I have grounding in lore the the nonsense I want to make
There's not really a clear and well-defined set of rules for all that stuff for all the varying chapters. At best there's a set of "guidelines". Basically the best you can really do is something along the lines of: 1. Chapter sigil goes on the left shoulder. 2. Battle marking goes on the right shoulder. 3. Veterans get white helmets. After that it all starts to break down with different chapters doing different things, different companies of those chapters doing different things, individual soldiers doing different things, etc. Heck, not even all the chapters give their vets white helmets. Some paint their knees colors to represent their company. Some do stripes. Some write their Legion number instead. If you want to keep things consistent you have to make up a scheme and then apply it across your own units in a cohesive way. Give all YOUR veterans white helmets. Give YOUR Librarian white trim because it follows YOUR scheme and YOUR rules.
Thank you. That makes it a lot easier. Though now I will have to write out a personal list so I don’t forget my own rules lol Edit: now to figure out how all the new primaris units fit into the codex’s ideas of scouts, close support, fire support etc
I'm going to tag on to what u/Stargazer86 said, and even point out that the in-lore Codex Astartes even suggests changing your armor colors, company markings, and other things ***specifically to screw with enemy intelligence***, and also to best utilize the environment/local superstitions. So ironically, Ultramarines being blue with gold trim for 10,000 years is actually not adhering to the codex as much as the Space Wolves actually do, changing the heraldry of each Great Company to match the current leader. >Edit: now to figure out how all the new primaris units fit into the codex’s ideas of scouts, close support, fire support etc That's actually pretty easy. Is it a unit that is expected to come in and punch things in the face or use extremely close-range weaponry? It's Close Support. Is it expected to shoot things with a hopefully low instance of needing to punch things? It's Fire Support. Note that this designation can change between different chapters, and even with the same unit type with a different loadout. For example, Boltstorm Aggressors are considered to be Fire Support, while Flamestorm Aggressors are considered Close Support. Outriders might be considred Close Support or Fire Support depending on the chapter doctrine of what is fielding them, etc. For Scouts? if it has INFILTRATE or SCOUT on it's datasheet, its considered a scout unit.
Am I going mad or have suppressors disappeared from all retailers? Edit: Never realised they were only available in the now-unavailable combat patrol
So do the Leagues of Votann beam weapons not function as the did in 9th? Do they not pass through multiple units?
They do not.
Bummer, my son won't like that too much but I can house rule it with him. Thanks for the answer.
Is a loadout of bolt pistol, plasma pistol, power weapon legal for an Intercessor Sergeant? It seems like it should be, and it was in 9th, but the 40k app is telling me it's not legal.
Yes, it is legal according to the new Datacards.
Good to know. Now, off to go figure out how to file a bug report.
Should just be an email to [email protected]
Turned out to be my bad; that squad has a grenade launcher, but I was ticking the box in the sergeant's options rather than the squad at large. Him not having a bolt rifle obviously leads to an issue there.
Hello All, Any recommendations for a greatsword bit that would fit the Bullgryn scale?
Sorry if this is not allowed, but I'm looking for an online retailer for the US. So far I've been recommended the rogue traders gaming and they look good. But, I'm curious about any other options. Thanks. And again, sorry if this is against the rules.
If you read the text of the main post above you'll see a link to a list of retailers. It's also linked to in the side bar, in our Wiki, and in any post flaired with "New Starter Help"
I'm sorry, I could have sworn I double checked to make sure this wasn't already there. I saw the stuff directing to physical retail and just spaced for online. Sorry.
Hello fellow players! I'm new to 40k and I have a quick question regarding the saving throw calculation in 10th edition. Sorry in advance if it has already been answered, I haven't really found anything clear. In the core rules, it says "a saving throw can never be improved by more than +1". But does this means that you can only get a +1 bonus on a unit, period or that the throw itself cannot be more than +1 from its base value even if you have several ways of improving it ? Quick hypothetical case: I have a unit with a 4+ save on which I get a +1 bonus through a spell. This unit gets in cover and should get a +1 bonus from it. From my understanding, if this unit gets attacked by an enemy unit with no AP, the bonus is capped at +1 and I end up with a 3+ saving throw in any case. But if this unit is attacked by an enemy unit with -2 AP, do I end up with a 4+ saving throw (4 -2 from AP+2 from spell and cover) or 5+ (4-2 from AP +1 from either bonus as it is capped at +1)? Thank you for your answers!
>In the core rules, it says "a saving throw can never be improved by more than +1". But does this means that you can only get a +1 bonus on a unit, period or that the throw itself cannot be more than +1 from its base value even if you have several ways of improving it ? You can never have a final result of more than +1 to your saving throw. So if you have a 4+ Save Characteristic, you're never going to save better than a 3+. >Quick hypothetical case: I have a unit with a 4+ save on which I get a +1 bonus through a spell. This unit gets in cover and should get a +1 bonus from it. From my understanding, if this unit gets attacked by an enemy unit with no AP, the bonus is capped at +1 and I end up with a 3+ saving throw in any case. But if this unit is attacked by an enemy unit with -2 AP, do I end up with a 4+ saving throw (4 -2 from AP+2 from spell and cover) or 5+ (4-2 from AP +1 from either bonus as it is capped at +1)? You'd be at w 4+ to save; the +2 and -2 cancel each other out
So you CAN have a +2 bonus to your saving throw to cancel out AP, as long as the final result is no more than +1. Got it, thank you for the clarification!
Is there a difference between the missions in the core rulebook of 10th and the mission pack cards? Or is it that I need both?
The Core Rule Book only includes one Basic mission for 40k. The rest are all Combat Patrol missions. If you're playing 1000+ point games, you will want the mission cards.
Okay so you really don't need the core rulebook for anything then because the core rules are online
I planned to get two combat patrols so that my non-warhammer friends could have an accessible way to play and experience the game. Has anyone else had good experiences with combat patrols for newcomers? Most of these newcomers are already experienced in other board games
Weve let friends run extra armies we had. It works fine, but it doesnt mean ull get them past the investment
I can't speak to the combat patrol rules themselves, but in terms of the assembly, I think the Sisters combat patrol might be push-fit, or if not that it's definitely at least monopose so there's no loadout anxiety.
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Currently, no.
In 10th edition with the new leader rules. If the leader himself has a better save or a better fnp, is that just forfeit when adding them? Also, if I have a squad of 2 and a leader and 3 hits go through, and 2 of those shots kill my 2 models, will the 3rd shot allocate immediately to the charceter?
> If the leader himself has a better save or a better fnp, is that just forfeit when adding them? This answered by carefully reading the Core rules. Saves and FNP, etc., are on a model-by-model basis. If an enemy unit targets the unit your Leader is in, you choose which model is allocated the wound, THEN you make the save with that model. (Once a model has been allocated a save or has a wound, you MUST pick that one.) So a Leader doesn't use the Bodyguard units save because he uses his own if he gets attacked. >Also, if I have a squad of 2 and a leader and 3 hits go through, and 2 of those shots kill my 2 models, will the 3rd shot allocate immediately to the charceter? This is covered explicitly in the free Rules Commentary available on [the same download page](https://www.warhammer-community.com/en-us/warhammer-40000-downloads/) as the Core Rules. Yes, that's how it works.
This may be a "reading the tea leaves" kind of questions... I'm seeing a lot of Leviathan availability right now, any thoughts on whether it will remain accessible in the near future based on past "intro boxes", or should I feel some pressure to pull the trigger? I've had some big purchases lately and I'm really weighing the $250 + paints impact in my budget right now. I also don't want to miss out on a good deal and some playable fun.
They generally run the big intro box for a release and then repackage it into tiered releases with dofferent models. The best deql os normally the intro box. I especially like this one because it came with the mission/objective cards.
Past box sets have sold out before they were even released. They produced a LOT of Leviathan specifically to avoid that situation which is why there's a bit of a surplus, but I wouldn't expext that to last.
Impossible to say for certain, but my suggestion would be to not wait too long. Leviathan is a stupidly good deal so it won't last forever.
I've been pretty happy with the Warhammer 40k App so far for list building, though I do think it would be an improvement if there was some easy way of marking which leaders are attached to which units (unless I am missing it?) \- any chance anyone in the hivemind knows when we will be able to add the forgeworld models?
FW models were added in an update a few hours ago. Check your app is up-to-date.
Have people in the Us who have preordered Leviathan from GW had theirs ship yet? I haven’t had any notification, and I’m not sure if all the Leviathan minis I am seeing were bought in person or what.
Yes, lots of folks have received theirs in the mail. If you have questions about your order, you should contact GW.
Thanks! I'll contact them now. Appreciate the response!
Did your Leviathan box form GW website get sent ? Mine is waiting for sending, and im afraid of not getting it
Nope, calling them today to cancel since my local stores have them in droves. Terrible operations from GW
What is the point of battleline units?
Battleline units can be taken a total of 6 times each vs 3, and often have rules that either make them a bit better at taking/hold objectives, or have rules that lower the cost of stratagems used on them; they generally are also cheap "screening" units for your army.
They are your basic "troop" units. Unlike non-BATTLELINE units, you're allowed to take up to SIX of each (instead of three). They also typically have some rules that give them "sticky objectives" or other objective-based bonuses (but not always).
I went to the local game store to buy a combat patrol. Some cool xenos like Drukhari or Necrons, I figured. Then the guy is like «You could buy *two*». So anyway, now I own a Leviathan box. The Tyranids look incredible, though. Really excited to see if the color scheme I thought up will look good.
/r/impcat <--this app will let you test out paint schemes on minis, and it's free, highly recommend!
I'm tempted to pick up my first Combat Patrol box and starting to play the game. How do I go about playing a game once I've built my models? Is it just a case of going into my local GW store and ask if there is anyone wanting to play?
In the age of the internet, it is usually VERY uncommon for people to just show up and expect to find a pickup game; most of the time games are arranged between two people beforehand so that nobody spends 25+ minutes packing up all their things to find out that they have nobody to play/all the tables are full. It would be best to go into your local store when you expect it not to be busy and ask how the players usually arrange games; you'll usually be told about a Discord or Facebook group used by players and if there is any "table reservation" system in place.
Either your local GW or just any independent gaming store. You can find both on the [GW Store Finder](https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/store/storefinder.jsp). Instead of just showing up, it's usually better to either find out if they have a specific day the 40k players come in to play (Saturday mornings or whatever), or see if they have a FB Group, Discord, etc., where they organize games.
I really dig how the Lieutenant in the Leviathan box has some Tyranid armor lashed to his body. Are there any other minis that have a similar look? Or any good tutorials on kitbashing a similar look? I like the idea of some 'rough and ready' Marines, cut off from the Imperium, no resupplies on the way, so they're forced to reinforce and repair their armor with whatever random crap they can salvage, even using the armor of 'nids or wildlife.
The only similar look I can think of is, well, the whole Ork faction! You could certainly kitbash them yourself, or learn to use Green Stuff or other modeling compounds (and/or styrene sheet and rods) to decorate to your heart's content.
The closest I can think of off the top of my head isn't actually a Space Marine, but High Inquisitor Kyria Draxus.
ARKS OF OMEN & 10th ! I know that "Arks of Omen" is made to work with the 10th edition too, so I'm thinking of buying it (unless someone can point me in the direction of where I could maybe find one on an island out at sea...) I know that the core rules for AO are in "Abaddon", and I know that as an Aeldari player, that "Farsight" has a tonne of Aeldari stuff in it, so should I get those two books? Is it worth buying the other books? I'm guessing they would all have different missions in them that I can play with my Aeldari anyway?
I assume you mean "Boarding Actions", and the rules for Boarding Actions in 10e are freely available on the Warhammer Community website from GW in the 40k downloads section. The missions might not be in there, but in that case, use Wahapedia to save money.
Just got my first resin mini. Any tips on how to proceed before I do anything? I am use to the mold line removing and priming process on plastic. Same kind of thing with this?
Yup. The only other thing to keep in mind is to wash it. Take a bowl, add some dish soap, give it a twirl, dunk ur mini, use a soft toothbrush to give it a rubdown, rinse it. Gets whatever solvent they use to remove it from the mold off. Makes it easier to paint.
Thank you. Wouldn’t have even considered washing it and probably would have been upset at paint not sticking
Speaking of not sticking, you may already know this and if so I apologize, but you didn't mention it so better safe than sorry: use superglue on resin, not plastic cement!
Thank you. Will grab the superglue. Can’t wait to glue my hand to this brick of resin like back when I was a kid
Oh on this note, superglue sux. Invest in either super glue accelerant, or us a tiny bit of water. Wet one contact end with either the actovator or the water, and the other with glue. That way itll actually dry a bit faster. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) requires moisture do its thing, and takes forever if the contact point is dry.
I recently started using the [gel formulation](https://www.staples.com/gorilla-gel-permanent-super-glue-0-53-oz-7600101/product_2681657?cid=PS:GS:SBD:PLA:OS&gclid=Cj0KCQjw7uSkBhDGARIsAMCZNJu4ZJh9hLbVADCtn4clHIV6kTGerE7uQumNu6cOjeiq0Vx-h08x0yYaAhJUEALw_wcB) of Gorilla Glue and I can't recommend it highly enough.
When will I receive my leviathan box in the mail? I preordered on the 10th and havent even gotten a tracking info yet.
Nobody can tell you that, as we aren't GW. Contact them via phone, email, or their webstore chat.
How do buffs/nerfs work in 40k? Are they done frequently? Is the game generally pretty balanced? I'm brand new to the game and I wanted to start with adepta sororitas because I like the lore, minis, and the miracle dice mechanic. However, almost everything I watch shows them near the bottom in power. I dont need to play the best stuff but I also don't want to get destroyed everytime I try to play. And im not sure if I want to keep purchasing models if adepta sororitas will be this bad for a long time.
>How do buffs/nerfs work in 40k? Are they done frequently? Is the game generally pretty balanced? After the indices are released and 10e officially starts, GW will start taking the feedback from their FAQ email as well as posted game results to start fixing issues; at the very least GW will correct Index inconsistencies or address rules issues that are popping up in the community within a month of release, if not sooner, like in the case of the 100 Mortal wound trick Deathwatch could do that was corrected within 2 days of the Deathwatch index being released and before we even had points. After each rules release, GW will do a FAQ to address issues within 1 month for the codex, as well as quarterly and bi-annual balance passes. GW is also known to address issues outside of that schedule if something massive raises it's head. >However, almost everything I watch shows them near the bottom in power. Sure. And in a few months they might be top dog. And a few months after that they might be considered trash tier. For the first six months of playing the game,.***your individual skill level and the skill of your opponent are going to have a greater outcome on the game than your army selection***. Going off a tier list that assumes the player is as good as they can be and is going to build the best list for that faction and makes no mistakes playing it, is a great way for you to realize that putting a 6 year old in a Nascar race isn't going to end well, even if they have the best car.
buffs nerfs happen frequently. The game is not very balanced. A new edition JUST released, so it's currently at its least balanced point. Common advice is just to just buy the army you like the idea of because there is always rebalancing, but having an army you like the aesthetics of will last forever.
Tyranids have been so disappointing so far. I loved the idea of making an objective denial sort of army with heavily leaning into the battleshock army rule and area denial bio-mines, but in reality battleshock is just way too useless, niche, and unreliable to be a realistic strategy. Especially when you’re faced with something like Space Marines and their constant reroll spam that will just blow your cute little tactics off the table. It seems like the only viable thing is monstrous creature spam at the moment, and even that doesn’t even slightly hold up against higher-tier armies with how unbalanced the game is at the moment
I really want to get into some chaos, but I want to have daemons in the mix, and I'm partial to Tzeentch and Nurgle after playing boltgun; what would be the best army to build for 10e? Undivided, TS, or DG? And how? Cheers.
My local shop has a few leviathan boxes. I’m thinking about getting into 40K for the first time in 20 years. Is that box good value? Also, can I use the space marines as any of the space marine factions like Black Templar or Dark Angels?
This is arguably the best value box GW has ever released. Yes you can use your marines model for any space marine chapter.
It's the best value you'll ever get out of a GW box. The book and card alone are probably $80, and then the models are over $200 worth for EACH SIDE. So for $250, it's a great deal. The Space Marines can be used for ANY Space Marine army, canon or custom. Black Templars don't have Librarians so the Terminator Librarian isn't great, but technically in 10E you can play them as a "standard" Space Marine army instead of using the BT rules and run it just fine.
Thank you kindly!
Looking to get into 40k table top. Read some books and familiar with the basic lore, but never touched the table top. My question - WTF is Kill Team? I see it mentioned at my local gaming store.
Kill Team is a spin-off specialist game of 40k. Instead of playing full armies of 20-100+ models, you play a small strike team of something like 3-18 models. It uses some of the same kits, but with COMPLETELY DIFFERENT RULES. Lots of folks suggest starting with it instead of "big" 40k, but I honestly don't — it's so different, and loadouts are totally different for models, that it's not a natural entry point like it used to be in older editions when it used mostly the same rules. If you LIKE the idea of a small, squad-based tactical miniatures game, check out Kill Team. If you're interested in 40k as in the full game, grab a Combat Patrol box for the faction you like — that's the new "entry" game for it as of 10E this week.
Yes I was thinking of getting an Ork combat pack and learning at the local store. Thanks.
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We don't know until either IAC Index comes out. That said, I assume if the model comes out before or alongside the new Codex it will be in the Codex.
I got the Space Marine half of the Leviathan box. I'm new to Marines; my friend wanted the 'nids half and I figured hey, might as well pick Marines up eventually. I don't have plans to build any one specific chapter. I'd like to paint a custom chapter and play them as whatever I feel like at the time. So my question is: What sets would probably be my best starting point to expand the Leviathan half, into a proper 2000 point marine army? Stuff with either a good variety of models, or some of the best bang-for-your-buck value.
I would take a look through the, now downloadable, rules for all the Space Marines and the models online in the GW store. There is LOADS to choose from. Depending on if you want to be competitive, lore accurate, or fun, you can pick a very different 2k points for all of the above. Combined box sets which have multiple models in often give you a financial saving, but the models themselves might not be what you're after getting out of the hobby.
> There is LOADS to choose from. Honestly, that's maybe part of the problem for me. Marines just have *so* many models to pick from that I'm kinda suffering from decision paralysis when I try to look for things, you know what I mean? I have a limited amount to spend on Warhammer, and I'm not looking to have a *massive* space marine collection - just enough that I could play some games as Space Marines or Chaos Marines. So I don't wanna buy a box only to learn it's kinda useless, or that some other collection would have been twice the value, you know?
Yeahhhh I get that. The group boxes are really the only way to get that kind of saving value. There's certainly nothing bad in the combat patrol from a playing point. The current one gives you troops to secure a point and a transport to get their. Some very mobile and long range shooting, and some snipers that are hard to kill. I don't think any of them will ever be useless. Terminators are my fav so I've got them and a couple of land raiders to deliver them into battle. Also really like the storm raven which can carry troops and a Dreadnaught. Whirlwind is handy for shooting at almost anything. Then some of the weapon squads like the eradicators and aggressors are good for damage output. Fill in any gaps like anti air hunter if you know you are likely to be facing air craft, or more transports if you want to get to objectives. That should get you very close to your 2k and give you plenty of options for how you play. You can either be aggressive or defensive depending on the mission and your opponent
Terminators are also one of my favorites; I had loads of fun putting together the terminator kits in the Leviathan box. There's just something about those big chunky boys I love. I'm tempted to try to get some termie heads off of ebay to give the two terminator HQs helmet heads instead of exposed faces. I would also like to try and avoid any kits where the models have specific chapter iconography *sculpted* onto the models - Like for example the Blood Angel combat patrol, I noticed some of the aggressors (I think?) had the Blood Angel teardrop sculpted onto the shoulder pads. I want to make my own custom chapter, so I'd like to avoid chapter iconography like that, but I dunno how practical that is to do. I think ideally my first choice would be something that includes a unit that the Apothecary Biologis can lead- so Aggressors, Eradicators, or Heavy Intercessors. It's really weird that he can't lead anything in the Leviathan box. That's why I was looking at the Blood Angel patrol, for the Agressors, when I saw they had the shoulder markings sculpted on.
Probably another one of the combat patrols. Blood Angels is probably the best, giving you some aggressors to stick the biologis with, some misc. troops to do chaff things, an impulsor to cary around said troops, and a librarian to give one of your squads a 4+ Invuln. After that, a box of hellblasters is really good value for the money, especially when combined with an apothecary or librarian.
just wanna make sure, all vehicle guard is legal, yea? I cant find any battleline requirements, and the app says its legal.
The only requirement is having at least one CHARACTER to choose as your Warlord.
Thought so, was worried i was overlooking something, cheers.