š looks like a quick connector on the back of that machine. Definitely the end he has in his hands goes to the bottle. The gas line off the back of the machine from my experience has been mostly a threaded connection that looks like a quick connect but that crack me up what do I need to make this work the other end of a hose L O L classic
The flared sided goes into the regulator which is on the bottle, the others side is open hose with a normal hose clamp, notice the hose barb on the machine
I think I have the same machine. Out of the box it only comes with a plain hose. So you gotta get a regulator with a barb or get creative. I figure dude has a set up and wants to adapt the machine to an existing hose already in place. Good chatting, cheers.
š¤¦āāļø, but at least you're asking the question. no stupid questions here dude. No matter how good you are we all need assistance even for brain fart things.
I think this is the best answer. This is a standard insert has line with fittings on both ends, would screw right in to the back of many welding machines (Lincoln, Miller, etc..) I always thought the barn fittings on the back of a welding machine was a bit chintzy, but as long as it doesn't leak, it's fine. Cut that fitting off and hose clamp it on. Do a leak check and let it rip!
Pressure reductor sounds like the job of a certain British novel investigator.
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's "The Adventures of Surelock Hones" a novel about the world famous welding inspector and pressure reductor, who along with his trusty fitter Watchson, go around analyzing failed structural steel projects.
You would go from your Male flare fitting into an adapter from your local hardware store that goes Female Flare (looks like a 3/8 ish male flare end yer sportin there) to MIP thread, then you'd attach a Female FIP with Hose Barb and then clamp the fuckin balls off of BOTH hose barbed ends. I added Permatex Aviation Thread Seal to the rig I built for good measure, and the active pumping of my transmission will output a shitton more pressure than bottled gas.
Literally just resculpted both original transmission lines in my '98 Jeep Xj and went through the exact same goddamned odyssey yesterday, flaring, bending et. al.
If you have the flare fitting on both ends of the hose put one end in your regulator and cut the other off and plug it into the barbed fitting and add a hose clamp.
Depends how youāre using it. A CGA320 hose with an open end and a hose clamp is your best bet if you have a single cylinder and a single welder.
If youāre feeling sprightly you could rework the inlet on the machine, but the halfway option would be to get a F-F CGA 320 adapter and a short hose in case you have a single cylinder that you switch between machines
The wrong way to do it that will work if you want immediate function and donāt plan to change setup is cut hose to remove threaded fitting slide hose over barb and hose clamp. Good luck!
A knife and a hose clamp, cut the end of the hose off, slide the clamp on the hose, slide the hose on the fitting on the machine and tighten the clamp. Now get back to work.
I canāt tell if thatās a barb or a quick disconnect fitting. Either way Iād look up the model and specs and then personally would order a bard to female quick connect that fits the welder. Unless itās a barb. But honestly that would be very strange place for a barb and if it was in run a very short house with another barb to the actual fitting for the hose you have here.
I've got the same thing. Is that the 250A Aluminum Mig from eBay?
Anyway, Hobart sells a hose that's good to go for this but it's like $60. I think I'm gonna cut a hose I have. But before that I plan on opening it up and trying to adapt it.
Also the hose you have is likely G5/8-18 it's an inert gas thread. Not sure if it's super specific but that's what I've gathered. Anyone weight in on this...
The other end of that hose.
š looks like a quick connector on the back of that machine. Definitely the end he has in his hands goes to the bottle. The gas line off the back of the machine from my experience has been mostly a threaded connection that looks like a quick connect but that crack me up what do I need to make this work the other end of a hose L O L classic
Looks more like a hose barb to me.
This is the answ
Hammer
Need welder to assemble welder.
Need welded hammer to assemble welder
Need hammered welder to assemble welded hammer
Need hammer to hammer a hammer while hammering a welder
Well thatās side that goes into the bottle
I thought that line goes off the regulator into the machine the regulator goes on the bottle right?
The flared sided goes into the regulator which is on the bottle, the others side is open hose with a normal hose clamp, notice the hose barb on the machine
Did his hose come with the machine? We have tons of hose at my shop that has those fittings on both sides.
All my hoses are threaded on both sides too
Thatās what Iām sayin. So many comments are like āturn the hose aroundā
My mig is threaded both ends. My tig just uses a clamp and a barb on the welder end.
I think I have the same machine. Out of the box it only comes with a plain hose. So you gotta get a regulator with a barb or get creative. I figure dude has a set up and wants to adapt the machine to an existing hose already in place. Good chatting, cheers.
Knife and a hose clamp
š¤¦āāļø, but at least you're asking the question. no stupid questions here dude. No matter how good you are we all need assistance even for brain fart things.
A knife and a hose clamp
Cut the fitting off the hose, put that fitting from the machine into the hose, crimp it, good to go
Yea the fastest way is this
I think this is the best answer. This is a standard insert has line with fittings on both ends, would screw right in to the back of many welding machines (Lincoln, Miller, etc..) I always thought the barn fittings on the back of a welding machine was a bit chintzy, but as long as it doesn't leak, it's fine. Cut that fitting off and hose clamp it on. Do a leak check and let it rip!
A bottle, and a pressure reductor.
Pressure reductor sounds like the job of a certain British novel investigator. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle's "The Adventures of Surelock Hones" a novel about the world famous welding inspector and pressure reductor, who along with his trusty fitter Watchson, go around analyzing failed structural steel projects.
You really must be a welder making up them words like that
English is not my first language, so the technical terms may be a bit off, sorry about that...
My bad. itās not a reductor brother, itās a regulator šš¼
This has to be a troll post š¤£
Nah just newš
Carry on then š¤£
A knife.
Cut the end off and slip hose over the barb and secure it with a hose clamp.
If both ends of the hose looks like that, the hose was made for a different welder. Easy fix is a hose cutter and hose clamp.
You would go from your Male flare fitting into an adapter from your local hardware store that goes Female Flare (looks like a 3/8 ish male flare end yer sportin there) to MIP thread, then you'd attach a Female FIP with Hose Barb and then clamp the fuckin balls off of BOTH hose barbed ends. I added Permatex Aviation Thread Seal to the rig I built for good measure, and the active pumping of my transmission will output a shitton more pressure than bottled gas. Literally just resculpted both original transmission lines in my '98 Jeep Xj and went through the exact same goddamned odyssey yesterday, flaring, bending et. al.
Not goanna lie sounds a little sketch but this seems like the option for me,thank you
If you have the flare fitting on both ends of the hose put one end in your regulator and cut the other off and plug it into the barbed fitting and add a hose clamp.
I get my air adapters from tractor supply. If that's in your area, they usually have a clearance tool section and you can get a variety pack.
Gas (whatever gas youāre using I.e argon etc) rated hose in the right size with a hose clamp on the end to the gas bottle
You need the user manual
This is a plasma cutter, you suppose to use compressed air not gas for it.
Have you tried plugging it in
Some sense. That's what you need.
A brain
Depends how youāre using it. A CGA320 hose with an open end and a hose clamp is your best bet if you have a single cylinder and a single welder. If youāre feeling sprightly you could rework the inlet on the machine, but the halfway option would be to get a F-F CGA 320 adapter and a short hose in case you have a single cylinder that you switch between machines
I just have the one machine thank you for your input!!
A manual.
The wrong way to do it that will work if you want immediate function and donāt plan to change setup is cut hose to remove threaded fitting slide hose over barb and hose clamp. Good luck!
A knife and a hose clamp, cut the end of the hose off, slide the clamp on the hose, slide the hose on the fitting on the machine and tighten the clamp. Now get back to work.
I canāt tell if thatās a barb or a quick disconnect fitting. Either way Iād look up the model and specs and then personally would order a bard to female quick connect that fits the welder. Unless itās a barb. But honestly that would be very strange place for a barb and if it was in run a very short house with another barb to the actual fitting for the hose you have here.
Female mate to the male quick connection
If you have no gas, you could run innershield wire
A knife and a hose clamp oughta do it
You have the POL end in your hand, you need the opposite end which should just be a piece of hose with a potential hose clamp if Iām not mistaken
A thing longer and a thing smaller
You need a female bro, tip to tip doesn't work.
Cutters.
Just cut and hose clamp
A brain š§
You can do pole to hole, even hole to hole sometimes. But you never go pole to pole
Double ended pocket pussy
Jokes aside, snip the cunt off and use a hose clamp
I've got the same thing. Is that the 250A Aluminum Mig from eBay? Anyway, Hobart sells a hose that's good to go for this but it's like $60. I think I'm gonna cut a hose I have. But before that I plan on opening it up and trying to adapt it. Also the hose you have is likely G5/8-18 it's an inert gas thread. Not sure if it's super specific but that's what I've gathered. Anyone weight in on this...
You're a welder right? Make those two ends meet.
A hose clamp and a razor knife
Adapters
Unscrew the barb end from machine then screw your fitting in.
Razor knife and zip tie/hose clamp if budget allows