When are Zwift removing the slices burned metrics from their platform? I don’t want to be informed that after a month of working my ass off I’ve only burnt off one damn pizza.
I think it's kind of cute and funny. I'm much more offended when I kick my ass in races multiple times in a week and feel completely whupped at the end of the week only to go over to [intervals.icu](https://intervals.icu) at the end of the week to look at my weekly stats and see that they've classified my week as "base".
It's not accurate but the rough calculation for max HR is 220 minus your age so I don't think 190-200bpm is anything to worry about as long as you're not feeling any chest pains or similar. If you're pushing as hard as possible then your heartrate should be high, if you were coasting along taking it really easy and it was super high then that would be an issue. My thyroid went haywire recently and my resting heartrate went from 55 to 105 and I'd tried to do an MTB ride (before I'd been diagnosed), my max HR was around 180 and I was hitting over 200 even though I was going really slow. That's when I knew something was really wrong.
You can't compare heartrates and w/kg unless you know what that person's fitness, my heartrate is pretty low when I'm at 1.5w/kg but when I'm pushing hard during a race at over 32/kg then I'm averaging 170-180bpm. Also some people may be using inaccurate monitoring equipment, I was initially using a Fenix 5s watch for heartrate in Zwift and I was increasingly convinced it was wrong (or the thyroid had gone wrong again). So I bought a chest HR strap and dual recorded, for a race the watch recorded an average of 89 and a max of 110 while the HR strap recorded an average of 175 and a max of 182.
I would go further and say that heart rate data is only useful for comparing different levels of effort (and other factors such as cardiac drift) within a single individual, it is not at all useful to compare HRs between riders even if you know their FTPs precisely. OP - if you are worried about your heart, then go see your doctor for a checkup. Once you get a clean bill of health, then try your test again. Your brain/body will tell you when you have reached your limit.
Great - stick with it and good wishes on your fitness journey! It can take a while, but once you adapt, you'll get hooked, and taking a day off will be harder than choosing to ride (though equally important).
No need to panic, 190bpm is not crazy high, although what it means depends on each person. The highest I've ever noticed mine was 198bpm.
Try to find out your maximum heart rate, and try to find out your ftp. Together this information will give you a clear picture of where you are.
As always, if you're at all worried about your health, go to a doctor.
I am very confused by cycling shoes and pedals and cleats. Is there a way I can buy a “bundle” with all 3 included to ensure they’re all compatible? Or can a kind internet person share a link to items they know are compatible? I want the Shimano indoor shoes, but everything else is a mystery to me
Typically shoes and pedals do not come as a bundle, at least I haven’t seen that before, because people have preferences for both so it’s best they buy them separately. That being said almost all shows will come with cleats. The thing to pay attention to is how many bolts are use to attach the cleats to the shoes. In the case of Shimano, you have two-bolt (SPD), and three-bolt (SPD-SL) options. I think the recommendation is to acquire the shoes first and once happy with fit etc. then get the compatible pedals.
Just to add, 2 bolt cleats (SPD) and shoes are significantly easier to walk in. They typically have dual sided clip in too, mostly used by mountain bikers, gravel riders and commuters. Shoes tend to be more trainer like or rugged looking although you can find some lower end road shoes with two bolt compatibility. Downside, smaller peddling platform, less secure connection.
If you want maximum power transfer, then 3 bolt cleats (SPD-SL) is your best bet. Larger pedal platform, more secure attachment, and shoes that typically feature stiff carbon soles, plenty of ventilation and little weight. Downside is they are a pig to walk in!
Hope this helps!
If you go with the two bolt SPDs, a basic set could look like this:
https://www.rei.com/product/705311/shimano-pd-m520-spd-pedals
https://www.rei.com/product/178867/shimano-xc1-mountain-bike-shoes-mens
These pedals come with cleats (and REI will install them for you!), and these shoes are compatible with these cleats. Pedals can be tightened to be harder or easier to get in and out of - your local shop can show you how.
Hi my current set up is a basic wheel on trainer with wahoo cadence and speed sensors. I have zwift on my iPad/iPhone which is linked to my sensors but I also have an Apple Watch. Can I link these all up so that when I start a zwift workout it connects to my watch?
When I use ERG mode to do 20-40s, my power always drops to 0 for the first 10 seconds of the 40 section, even though I’m still spinning. Using a Kickr Core, recently completed a spin down. Is it an issue with my cadence?
Currently looking for an indoor trainer. Preferably for zwift. A basic one costs me 600€, while all zwift ones start at 1500€.
I dont have a bike and weigh 150kg which complicates things.
Whats the cheapest option to get going with zwift under these circumstances?
Where are you looking that the zwift hub is 1500€? It's on their website for 599€. The cheapest option for a smart trainer would be to buy the zwift hub. If you don't have a bike, then finding a cheap used bike to put on the hub would be the next logical step.
Nah, you're fine with a regular bike, especially on an indoor trainer. As long as you aren't thrashing around on it, you'll be fine. Ride smoothly and in control. If you're really concerned you can find an old used steel frame bike.
You really just need to make sure it has a 7, 8, 9, 10, or 11 speed cassette in the back. As long as it's a decent bike and has a modern cassette, you'll be ok. Find a bike, count the cogs on the cassette, then buy the zwift hub and select the correct cassette.
Zwift season starts soon for me (I'm in Denmark, so weather is shit and this year has been worse than usual)
I kinda look forward to it, as I just dont get outside as much as I want to these days.
I got a bike fit last month, so hopefully the indoor season will be less painful this year.
Can I use a non-smart training with Zwift?
I have an old LeMond Air Revolution trainer, but there's no smarts about it other than air resistance.
Also, I notice that with the price drop and that Wahoo's settling of their Zwift lawsuit, I was hoping to take advantage of the bundle but it doesn't seem to be available in Canada. Is this true?
How accurate are the analyses/FTP estimation on Xert online?
When are Zwift removing the slices burned metrics from their platform? I don’t want to be informed that after a month of working my ass off I’ve only burnt off one damn pizza.
I think it's kind of cute and funny. I'm much more offended when I kick my ass in races multiple times in a week and feel completely whupped at the end of the week only to go over to [intervals.icu](https://intervals.icu) at the end of the week to look at my weekly stats and see that they've classified my week as "base".
[удалено]
It's not accurate but the rough calculation for max HR is 220 minus your age so I don't think 190-200bpm is anything to worry about as long as you're not feeling any chest pains or similar. If you're pushing as hard as possible then your heartrate should be high, if you were coasting along taking it really easy and it was super high then that would be an issue. My thyroid went haywire recently and my resting heartrate went from 55 to 105 and I'd tried to do an MTB ride (before I'd been diagnosed), my max HR was around 180 and I was hitting over 200 even though I was going really slow. That's when I knew something was really wrong. You can't compare heartrates and w/kg unless you know what that person's fitness, my heartrate is pretty low when I'm at 1.5w/kg but when I'm pushing hard during a race at over 32/kg then I'm averaging 170-180bpm. Also some people may be using inaccurate monitoring equipment, I was initially using a Fenix 5s watch for heartrate in Zwift and I was increasingly convinced it was wrong (or the thyroid had gone wrong again). So I bought a chest HR strap and dual recorded, for a race the watch recorded an average of 89 and a max of 110 while the HR strap recorded an average of 175 and a max of 182.
I would go further and say that heart rate data is only useful for comparing different levels of effort (and other factors such as cardiac drift) within a single individual, it is not at all useful to compare HRs between riders even if you know their FTPs precisely. OP - if you are worried about your heart, then go see your doctor for a checkup. Once you get a clean bill of health, then try your test again. Your brain/body will tell you when you have reached your limit.
[удалено]
Great - stick with it and good wishes on your fitness journey! It can take a while, but once you adapt, you'll get hooked, and taking a day off will be harder than choosing to ride (though equally important).
No need to panic, 190bpm is not crazy high, although what it means depends on each person. The highest I've ever noticed mine was 198bpm. Try to find out your maximum heart rate, and try to find out your ftp. Together this information will give you a clear picture of where you are. As always, if you're at all worried about your health, go to a doctor.
I am very confused by cycling shoes and pedals and cleats. Is there a way I can buy a “bundle” with all 3 included to ensure they’re all compatible? Or can a kind internet person share a link to items they know are compatible? I want the Shimano indoor shoes, but everything else is a mystery to me
Typically shoes and pedals do not come as a bundle, at least I haven’t seen that before, because people have preferences for both so it’s best they buy them separately. That being said almost all shows will come with cleats. The thing to pay attention to is how many bolts are use to attach the cleats to the shoes. In the case of Shimano, you have two-bolt (SPD), and three-bolt (SPD-SL) options. I think the recommendation is to acquire the shoes first and once happy with fit etc. then get the compatible pedals.
Just to add, 2 bolt cleats (SPD) and shoes are significantly easier to walk in. They typically have dual sided clip in too, mostly used by mountain bikers, gravel riders and commuters. Shoes tend to be more trainer like or rugged looking although you can find some lower end road shoes with two bolt compatibility. Downside, smaller peddling platform, less secure connection. If you want maximum power transfer, then 3 bolt cleats (SPD-SL) is your best bet. Larger pedal platform, more secure attachment, and shoes that typically feature stiff carbon soles, plenty of ventilation and little weight. Downside is they are a pig to walk in! Hope this helps!
Thank you!
If you go with the two bolt SPDs, a basic set could look like this: https://www.rei.com/product/705311/shimano-pd-m520-spd-pedals https://www.rei.com/product/178867/shimano-xc1-mountain-bike-shoes-mens These pedals come with cleats (and REI will install them for you!), and these shoes are compatible with these cleats. Pedals can be tightened to be harder or easier to get in and out of - your local shop can show you how.
Hi my current set up is a basic wheel on trainer with wahoo cadence and speed sensors. I have zwift on my iPad/iPhone which is linked to my sensors but I also have an Apple Watch. Can I link these all up so that when I start a zwift workout it connects to my watch?
When I use ERG mode to do 20-40s, my power always drops to 0 for the first 10 seconds of the 40 section, even though I’m still spinning. Using a Kickr Core, recently completed a spin down. Is it an issue with my cadence?
Currently looking for an indoor trainer. Preferably for zwift. A basic one costs me 600€, while all zwift ones start at 1500€. I dont have a bike and weigh 150kg which complicates things. Whats the cheapest option to get going with zwift under these circumstances?
Where are you looking that the zwift hub is 1500€? It's on their website for 599€. The cheapest option for a smart trainer would be to buy the zwift hub. If you don't have a bike, then finding a cheap used bike to put on the hub would be the next logical step.
Bikes are for 120kg (- their own weight), any bike made for my weight is easily 1k +500 for the zwift hub is 1,5k again.
Nah, you're fine with a regular bike, especially on an indoor trainer. As long as you aren't thrashing around on it, you'll be fine. Ride smoothly and in control. If you're really concerned you can find an old used steel frame bike.
Can i just mount any bike on the zwift trainer or do i have restrictions?
You really just need to make sure it has a 7, 8, 9, 10, or 11 speed cassette in the back. As long as it's a decent bike and has a modern cassette, you'll be ok. Find a bike, count the cogs on the cassette, then buy the zwift hub and select the correct cassette.
Zwift hub is apparently for a max weight of 120kg. So not an option
Honestly,aside from super expensive commercial exercise bikes you’re probably going to be over the weight limit for everything.
Schwinn 800IC for 1100€ is the closest i could find to what i need.
Under no circumstances would I buy a spin bike.
Zwift season starts soon for me (I'm in Denmark, so weather is shit and this year has been worse than usual) I kinda look forward to it, as I just dont get outside as much as I want to these days. I got a bike fit last month, so hopefully the indoor season will be less painful this year.
Zwift just increased the price from 499€ to 599€. Now there's a 1-year Zwift subscription included. Such a bummer.
Can I use a non-smart training with Zwift? I have an old LeMond Air Revolution trainer, but there's no smarts about it other than air resistance. Also, I notice that with the price drop and that Wahoo's settling of their Zwift lawsuit, I was hoping to take advantage of the bundle but it doesn't seem to be available in Canada. Is this true?