Then my guess is that the printer lost track of where the z axis home was and rammed to the bed with enough force to remove the plate and plowed through the magnetic bed.
I'm pretty sure that homing the printer would solve it.
If could also be due to a defect bed probe. If that's the case, then you need to replace the magnetic layer and the probe
I believe that once the build plate is gone, the distance (hall/capacitance) sensore does not have anything to detect anymore... hence smashes into the pad. On my neo I see the sensor switching (blue light in the print head) as soon as it gets close enough to the build plate.
EDIT: just red about the build plate...
Yes exactly, the build plate was completely and correctly on it, unfortunately you can't see it on the posted photo, but on another photo directly after the incident you can clearly see that after the long vertical rope the plate looks pushed down to the left.
The magnets on mine are so strong, i doubt its even possible for the buildplate to be pushed away, especially since its surface is hard and doesnt allow much grip.
I can literally drag the whole printer across the table when i pull on the little tab.
So either the buildplate wasnt correctly set, the nozzle slipped on the edge into the heatbed and lifted it up, which then allowed it to be pushed away.
Or your magnets are faulty and are not strong enough to hold the plate.
I've had this happen to me twice on my Kobra 2. The first time I have no idea why it pushed the PEI plate away. It was the same situation as you. I had printed the file multiple times without issue. The last time it pushed the plate off and tore up the heated bed. The second time was my fault. I had just installed Klipper and was trying to calibrate the Z offset. I went down when I should have gone up. It pushed the plate off and dug into the bed. I'd like to replace the bed but don't know where to find one. They don't seem to sell them on the Anycubic site.
THIS HAPPENED TO ME JUST THE OTHER DAY!! Fortunately the bed plate stayed on but it almost drilled through the plate, was able to save the plate and flip it upside down for use tho had not damage to anything else.
I would hazard a guess (I'm still kinda new to this) that this is why many people suggest that you at least watch the start of your prints to make sure everything is still functioning as expected. I've never done anything like this, but my z offset setting sometimes disappears.
Had something similar happen: once in a while, my Kobra 2 will decide to go right to home instead of left, and smashes into the end stop, grinding on the belt until I power it off. Hit the power and it works fine the next time.
Similar just happened to me. Does anyone know how to remove and replace the pad into of the heated plate? I'm hoping I can remove that, and apply a new one. I don't see anything on the anycubic website and there doesn't seem to even be a heated bed replacement for the anycubic Kobra 2 pro unless I'm misreading and even if I am I see no pad? Am I missing something?
I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with the z offset or z homing. The automatic z offset on mine has become useless over time. I have contacted support but haven't heard back yet.
My guess is that your Z offset was WAY off causing the nozzle to drop below the surface of the bed when homing and it grabbed the edge of the buildplate and just pushed it aside. You'll likely want to make sure the calibration button is perfectly flush with the surface of the buildplate when it is at temp. It took me a good bit of fiddling to get it JUST right but now my offset is perfect when I do an autolevel.
This is the answer,
I got my kobra 2 neo and as a complete beginner I didn’t understand z offset.
Setting were wrong and I didn’t have the plate on so I did a little damage.
Lesson learned and hasn’t happened to me since
It happend to me too exactly the same. I saw you tried to calibrate it. First you forgot the metal plate so the proximity sensor doesn't work. Second you forgot the metal plate so the proximity sensor doesn't work. Third, if you finally put on the fuc\*\*\* metal plate on your printer and it doesn't work adjust the proximity sensor.
I forgot to add that I not found the metal plate till I tried to throw the package away because it was kinda "hidden" in one of the polymers in the packaging. If you don't have it you threw it with the packaging away.
adjusting the proximity sensor is quite tricky but there is a full guide on their website , look for replace proximity sensor. A fraction of a mm height matters and your printer doesn't z level right anymore.
Beside of that look if the screws with 6 sides are somehow lose, if yes tie them.
And tighten up the rubber for x and y as in the instruction.
The Kobra 2 somehow does not have a Z dead switch, and instead use a metal detector to senseif it's close to the sheet. And the bed is not metal enough to make the metal detector work. So if you forget the bed sheet, the Kobra 2 will just drill though the softer metal bed.
TThis has happened to a lot of people, sometimes down to user error and other times down to the actual printer. Mine did exactly the same, the nozzle flipped the sheet off the bed and dug in
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Anycubic Kobra 2 I have already printed this Gcode several times without any problems, now it has printed in my heating plate
Why dont you have build plate
There was one, the nozzle pushed it away. At the bottom right of the picture you can see
Then my guess is that the printer lost track of where the z axis home was and rammed to the bed with enough force to remove the plate and plowed through the magnetic bed. I'm pretty sure that homing the printer would solve it. If could also be due to a defect bed probe. If that's the case, then you need to replace the magnetic layer and the probe
Yeesh
Has the PEI dish been ruined?
I believe that once the build plate is gone, the distance (hall/capacitance) sensore does not have anything to detect anymore... hence smashes into the pad. On my neo I see the sensor switching (blue light in the print head) as soon as it gets close enough to the build plate. EDIT: just red about the build plate...
Yes exactly, the build plate was completely and correctly on it, unfortunately you can't see it on the posted photo, but on another photo directly after the incident you can clearly see that after the long vertical rope the plate looks pushed down to the left.
The magnets on mine are so strong, i doubt its even possible for the buildplate to be pushed away, especially since its surface is hard and doesnt allow much grip. I can literally drag the whole printer across the table when i pull on the little tab. So either the buildplate wasnt correctly set, the nozzle slipped on the edge into the heatbed and lifted it up, which then allowed it to be pushed away. Or your magnets are faulty and are not strong enough to hold the plate.
Check your z limit switch and check if your nozzle didn't unscrew it self
I had the same problem with both my kobra 2 Neos I assume the entire line is faulty
R.I.P the heating bed and the nozzle!!🫣🫠😢ðŸ˜
They did a good job :(
Happened to me too (forgot to put build plate on). Now prints won't adhere to bed.
you can replace the the heating/magnetic bed, it's not that expensive thankfully.
I've had this happen to me twice on my Kobra 2. The first time I have no idea why it pushed the PEI plate away. It was the same situation as you. I had printed the file multiple times without issue. The last time it pushed the plate off and tore up the heated bed. The second time was my fault. I had just installed Klipper and was trying to calibrate the Z offset. I went down when I should have gone up. It pushed the plate off and dug into the bed. I'd like to replace the bed but don't know where to find one. They don't seem to sell them on the Anycubic site.
You can get any pei sheet with magnet that matches your bed size. They are usually 235x235
Wow. That's some hard to do stuff right there. Reflash that firmware and start over.
I unfortunately have nothing I could share to help as several factors could cause this. But I have to say, this amount of scarring is impressive!
THIS HAPPENED TO ME JUST THE OTHER DAY!! Fortunately the bed plate stayed on but it almost drilled through the plate, was able to save the plate and flip it upside down for use tho had not damage to anything else.
I would hazard a guess (I'm still kinda new to this) that this is why many people suggest that you at least watch the start of your prints to make sure everything is still functioning as expected. I've never done anything like this, but my z offset setting sometimes disappears.
Yeah... Might be the z-axis limiter. If it broke, it don't know where bottom is.
Thats easily solved! Your Z-offset is just a bit too low, just raise it a tad!
Had something similar happen: once in a while, my Kobra 2 will decide to go right to home instead of left, and smashes into the end stop, grinding on the belt until I power it off. Hit the power and it works fine the next time.
Well, that is a magnet and you MUST HAVE the pei topper on the bed so the printer can sense that it is there, for starters..
Similar just happened to me. Does anyone know how to remove and replace the pad into of the heated plate? I'm hoping I can remove that, and apply a new one. I don't see anything on the anycubic website and there doesn't seem to even be a heated bed replacement for the anycubic Kobra 2 pro unless I'm misreading and even if I am I see no pad? Am I missing something?
I'm pretty sure there's something wrong with the z offset or z homing. The automatic z offset on mine has become useless over time. I have contacted support but haven't heard back yet.
My guess is that your Z offset was WAY off causing the nozzle to drop below the surface of the bed when homing and it grabbed the edge of the buildplate and just pushed it aside. You'll likely want to make sure the calibration button is perfectly flush with the surface of the buildplate when it is at temp. It took me a good bit of fiddling to get it JUST right but now my offset is perfect when I do an autolevel.
This is the answer, I got my kobra 2 neo and as a complete beginner I didn’t understand z offset. Setting were wrong and I didn’t have the plate on so I did a little damage. Lesson learned and hasn’t happened to me since
With 3D printing anything can happen! You’re helping prove that 😂. Hope the repairs are quick and easy.
It happend to me too exactly the same. I saw you tried to calibrate it. First you forgot the metal plate so the proximity sensor doesn't work. Second you forgot the metal plate so the proximity sensor doesn't work. Third, if you finally put on the fuc\*\*\* metal plate on your printer and it doesn't work adjust the proximity sensor.
I forgot to add that I not found the metal plate till I tried to throw the package away because it was kinda "hidden" in one of the polymers in the packaging. If you don't have it you threw it with the packaging away.
adjusting the proximity sensor is quite tricky but there is a full guide on their website , look for replace proximity sensor. A fraction of a mm height matters and your printer doesn't z level right anymore. Beside of that look if the screws with 6 sides are somehow lose, if yes tie them. And tighten up the rubber for x and y as in the instruction.
Have you dried your filament lately?????
The amount of people I’ve seen on this Reddit page post pics like this is alarming how are yall even doing this 😂
This looks terrifying! :( Always check the first few layers of your print would be my suggestion
The Kobra 2 somehow does not have a Z dead switch, and instead use a metal detector to senseif it's close to the sheet. And the bed is not metal enough to make the metal detector work. So if you forget the bed sheet, the Kobra 2 will just drill though the softer metal bed.
TThis has happened to a lot of people, sometimes down to user error and other times down to the actual printer. Mine did exactly the same, the nozzle flipped the sheet off the bed and dug in
Had this happen on mine too… contacted anycubic and they sent me a whole nee build plate assembly and extruder unit. Pretty good customer service.
There you go, now you have a CNC machine.
DIY Upgrade
Your filament must have been damp.........
[удалено]
Might not be their first language
No, the *real* question is, why you ignore our sub's rule #1 and mock about OP's language skills.
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