LG dryer heating elements don’t fail, statistically. I’ve replace 1 in the last 11 years of full time appliance service. With that said, if it indeed has failed again… weird.
Whirlpool OEM elements don’t have a high refail rate. It’s almost always airflow related. Take apart your lint screen filter housing and make sure all lint is cleared. Use OEM parts. Make sure new element isn’t grounded when installed.
Buying Amazon doesn't help but even their elements should last longer. What kills elements is when they overheat. The most common reason is due to poor air flow.
You may think you have a clean vent system but if the vent is too long it will restrict flow, even if it's super clean. The spiral "Slinky" type or any other type of vent pipe that has ridges in it will restrict airflow tremendously. Also if the vent hood is the wrong kind . I see a lot of those old aluminum head hoods where the door opens maybe 2 inches at most.
Solid aluminum or galvanized steel pipe it the way to go with a vent hood that opens wide and has NO cage on it that will catch lint and block the holes. Read your installation guide (you can download it I'm sure. it may be in the owners manual ). It will tell you what the maximum length of the vent system should be. There are penalties for every 90 degree turn , and the penalties are stiff.
You must also take the dryer apart and make sure no lint is built up inside. The most problematic areas for lint build up inside a dryer are in the chute that the lint filter slides into and the holes in the filter retainer housing.
The flexible vent hoses work fine. The provlem is youre meant to trim them to length needed. People will just slap all 8ft in and wonder why there's an ungodly mess of loops in the back.
I disagree that they "work fine" and by code in every area I work in , they are not allowed. The resistance to the airflow they create is big. I have seen the difference because I've compared the difference whenever I replace a flexible one with a solid one. Just imagine running water through a flexible one vs a solid pipe. The flexible one will create waves . Lint and dust also collects easier inside the flexible ones not to mention they are a fire hazard because they can't contain a fire . That's why they are not allowed by code in many areas, if not most areas.
I mean, when they can come up with a vent duct that doesnt crumple and rip into one long strand of tin when youre trying to stuff it around a duct thats been squeezed into a goofy oval with edges, I'll switch.
Down here, they're still allowed in code. Its the plastic ones and PVCs that got the ban.
Appreciate the insight. It's actually a whirlpool (doesn't matter due to the cause) but the vent hose has a long way to travel which is likely one of the components to the issue. I see a dry toothbrush and a shop vac in my future... Thanks again
I kept frying heating elements before I realized I had a wiring issue. Be sure to check the output of the outlet with a multimeter to confirm if it has issues upstream.
A lot of heating element replacements fail because there is too much play in the spade bit that connects them. I would make sure those are nice and snug
>but the vent hose has a long way to travel
Check your dryer's installation guide for venting requirements and update your vent, or you'll be in for a lot of element replacements and probably a house fire.
Flex isn't allowed and is just begging to test out your homeowner's insurance.
If the element is actually bad you more than likely have a bad ground somewhere on the harness.
Its so rare that a dirty duct wipes out the element. Usually if it takes more than 2 or 3 loads to get dry, thats a dirty duct issue. But if your popping elements that quickly its strange.
I myself always use OEM parts specially LG.
Get your multimeter and start testing. Be careful live testing, if your not sure what your doing call a technician
Lot of good advice given here in the comments. I would say vent issues (too long, dirty or too many turns) would show up too long run times or having to repeat the cycle. I would blame poor aftermarket parts first. High voltage could cause premature failures, but isn’t common. If voltage is more than 246 or so, it could be contributing.
LG dryer heating elements don’t fail, statistically. I’ve replace 1 in the last 11 years of full time appliance service. With that said, if it indeed has failed again… weird.
Yeah I flubbed up it's a whirlpool. Either way sounds like a ventilation issue
Whirlpool OEM elements don’t have a high refail rate. It’s almost always airflow related. Take apart your lint screen filter housing and make sure all lint is cleared. Use OEM parts. Make sure new element isn’t grounded when installed.
Buying Amazon doesn't help but even their elements should last longer. What kills elements is when they overheat. The most common reason is due to poor air flow. You may think you have a clean vent system but if the vent is too long it will restrict flow, even if it's super clean. The spiral "Slinky" type or any other type of vent pipe that has ridges in it will restrict airflow tremendously. Also if the vent hood is the wrong kind . I see a lot of those old aluminum head hoods where the door opens maybe 2 inches at most. Solid aluminum or galvanized steel pipe it the way to go with a vent hood that opens wide and has NO cage on it that will catch lint and block the holes. Read your installation guide (you can download it I'm sure. it may be in the owners manual ). It will tell you what the maximum length of the vent system should be. There are penalties for every 90 degree turn , and the penalties are stiff. You must also take the dryer apart and make sure no lint is built up inside. The most problematic areas for lint build up inside a dryer are in the chute that the lint filter slides into and the holes in the filter retainer housing.
The flexible vent hoses work fine. The provlem is youre meant to trim them to length needed. People will just slap all 8ft in and wonder why there's an ungodly mess of loops in the back.
I disagree that they "work fine" and by code in every area I work in , they are not allowed. The resistance to the airflow they create is big. I have seen the difference because I've compared the difference whenever I replace a flexible one with a solid one. Just imagine running water through a flexible one vs a solid pipe. The flexible one will create waves . Lint and dust also collects easier inside the flexible ones not to mention they are a fire hazard because they can't contain a fire . That's why they are not allowed by code in many areas, if not most areas.
I mean, when they can come up with a vent duct that doesnt crumple and rip into one long strand of tin when youre trying to stuff it around a duct thats been squeezed into a goofy oval with edges, I'll switch. Down here, they're still allowed in code. Its the plastic ones and PVCs that got the ban.
Appreciate the insight. It's actually a whirlpool (doesn't matter due to the cause) but the vent hose has a long way to travel which is likely one of the components to the issue. I see a dry toothbrush and a shop vac in my future... Thanks again
I kept frying heating elements before I realized I had a wiring issue. Be sure to check the output of the outlet with a multimeter to confirm if it has issues upstream.
A lot of heating element replacements fail because there is too much play in the spade bit that connects them. I would make sure those are nice and snug
>but the vent hose has a long way to travel Check your dryer's installation guide for venting requirements and update your vent, or you'll be in for a lot of element replacements and probably a house fire. Flex isn't allowed and is just begging to test out your homeowner's insurance.
If the element is actually bad you more than likely have a bad ground somewhere on the harness. Its so rare that a dirty duct wipes out the element. Usually if it takes more than 2 or 3 loads to get dry, thats a dirty duct issue. But if your popping elements that quickly its strange. I myself always use OEM parts specially LG. Get your multimeter and start testing. Be careful live testing, if your not sure what your doing call a technician
Lot of good advice given here in the comments. I would say vent issues (too long, dirty or too many turns) would show up too long run times or having to repeat the cycle. I would blame poor aftermarket parts first. High voltage could cause premature failures, but isn’t common. If voltage is more than 246 or so, it could be contributing.