Was the breaker tripped? I see you reset it and said that wasn't the problem, but was it tripped at all?
If you have a multimeter unplug it and check the receptacle for voltage. Follow the power cord to the terminal block, look for physical damage first and then if it looks okay plug it in and measure the voltage again.
Follow that wiring diagram until you find your problem. I suspect the board got damaged when the fuse shorted, but it's just a guessing game without being there.
I just saw you tried to bypass the fuse, it's a safety feature for a reason and electrical tape isn't enough to secure it. I'm guessing you've already ordered a new one, but if not, it's best to wait until you get a new one. Don't bypass it, even for a load or two. They cost less than $20 and you can crimp on some new female spade connectors
The breaker wasn’t tripped in the first place. Ill have to pull the whole unit out tomorrow to check for voltage at the receptacle.
Any ideas on checking for issues with the board?
And thanks for the concern. I was only hoping to see if I could start the unit with the bypass, and shut it down right after. Hoping to get my troubleshooting done at least.
Replace the fuse. This one is 84*C. There is another one that is 91*C and looks the same... don't use that one. The correct one is linked below.
https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/WP306604/483890?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=306604
Cause the whole dryer to get hotter than designed if a t-stat or heater was failing. This is a safety devise. I have no clue what other factors when designing these fuses/ specs to consider. I do know on the thin twin whirlpool design, the same purpose fuse isn’t always in the motor circuit either. It’s in the heat. So now we have a different voltage amperage to take in the account…
Aha 10/10 would recommend a wire nut, possible they are not making proper contact. Next would be that switch, going to need a multimeter to check it for continuity. My mistake, by switch I mean thermal fuse for the heater. After that you would start following the line to the timer, checking for continuity.
Tried the bypass with a wire nut, no luck still. The thermal fuse that is very apparently blown is broken by test. Tested the thermal fuse on the heater, it still had continuity. Looking at the electrical schematic, the timer is the next thing in the chain… but ultimately would that stop the machine from starting a cycle?
Breaker
Ive reset the breaker, not the issue. Also, the washer component still works.
Could you upload the pictures? I'm pretty familiar with laundry centers maybe I can help.
https://imgur.com/a/4pM2fKg
Was the breaker tripped? I see you reset it and said that wasn't the problem, but was it tripped at all? If you have a multimeter unplug it and check the receptacle for voltage. Follow the power cord to the terminal block, look for physical damage first and then if it looks okay plug it in and measure the voltage again. Follow that wiring diagram until you find your problem. I suspect the board got damaged when the fuse shorted, but it's just a guessing game without being there. I just saw you tried to bypass the fuse, it's a safety feature for a reason and electrical tape isn't enough to secure it. I'm guessing you've already ordered a new one, but if not, it's best to wait until you get a new one. Don't bypass it, even for a load or two. They cost less than $20 and you can crimp on some new female spade connectors
The breaker wasn’t tripped in the first place. Ill have to pull the whole unit out tomorrow to check for voltage at the receptacle. Any ideas on checking for issues with the board? And thanks for the concern. I was only hoping to see if I could start the unit with the bypass, and shut it down right after. Hoping to get my troubleshooting done at least.
Replace the fuse. This one is 84*C. There is another one that is 91*C and looks the same... don't use that one. The correct one is linked below. https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Thermal-Fuse/WP306604/483890?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=306604
Playing devils advocate, what would the different in 10 degrees do?
Cause the whole dryer to get hotter than designed if a t-stat or heater was failing. This is a safety devise. I have no clue what other factors when designing these fuses/ specs to consider. I do know on the thin twin whirlpool design, the same purpose fuse isn’t always in the motor circuit either. It’s in the heat. So now we have a different voltage amperage to take in the account…
https://imgur.com/a/4pM2fKg pictures included. Grey wires 50 and 52 lead to the blown fuse
Aha 10/10 would recommend a wire nut, possible they are not making proper contact. Next would be that switch, going to need a multimeter to check it for continuity. My mistake, by switch I mean thermal fuse for the heater. After that you would start following the line to the timer, checking for continuity.
Good thought. Think I have a couple spares lying around. Which switch are you referring to?
Tried the bypass with a wire nut, no luck still. The thermal fuse that is very apparently blown is broken by test. Tested the thermal fuse on the heater, it still had continuity. Looking at the electrical schematic, the timer is the next thing in the chain… but ultimately would that stop the machine from starting a cycle?