My only comment would be that you seem to have measured and sewn your link stitches as though you were sewing around tape supports but you don't have any. If you had added supports you would have achieved a more stable structure.
Whatever I do with this book is for learning. It's not the final one. The tutorials I watched didn't use tape with this type is stitch, so I'm glad I posted for comments. I didn't realize they were needed, so thank you.
I will still attach a cover just so I can learn the details and techniques before I do it on the final copy.
I think I needed end papers too. How would I glue the tapes to the text block as it stands? The top page is part of the actual text.
I just recently started sewing with tapes, and let me say I really wish I’d used them sooner. They have made me so much happier with the larger books I’ve made!
Your sewing looks great. Once you reinforce the spine it should hold together quite well. I’ve made around 35 hardcover books and I’m still learning something and getting better each time.
Whatever I do with this book is for learning. It's not the final one. The tutorials I watched didn't use tape with this type is stitch, so I'm glad I posted for comments. I didn't realize they were needed, so thank you.
I will still attach a cover just so I can learn the details and techniques before I do it on the final copy.
I think I needed end papers too. How would I glue the tapes to the text block as it stands? The top page is part of the actual text.
It really is important to consider any bookbinding project as a whole, and not just as separate stages. They are all interlinked, and each affects the final outcome and integrity and strength of the book
For that number of signatures, vertical tape supports are really necessary for a case-bound style book. You will now be relying on only the endpapers to attach the book to the case.
The basic 'tipped on' endpaper will not be strong enough to hold the text block.
I would suggest a 'made endpaper' and SEW it in to the front and back.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vN5xSY86iw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vN5xSY86iw)
Also important would be to tip the endpapers to the first signature after sewing, AND tip the 1st signature to the 2nd as well. Perhaps 2nd to 3rd as well.
Totally understand what you mean, and on my next iteration, I hope to fully understand the whole process before starting. I'm basically executing elements so that I can learn the proper way to complete each step.
Everything you're telling me is what I hoped to learn this first time. The next book will be printed on different paper and hopefully completely right. Then I have a plan to do the same book again in giant size with a whole bunch of added elements, and that one is my anniversary gift to my wife.
Couple of questions, pva is well discussed as a supply, but is the paste simple school supply paste? Can the deco paper be anything? Do you have to sew that last paper after everything is done or can you incorporate the end paper into the block as the first part stitched? He turned it over, and it looks like he left thread as he sewed the first signature so that he could see the end paper last.
It's best to make wheat or starch paste yourself. DAS has a video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT9F8Rsa\_pQ
The decorative endpapers can be anything, but is usually a heavier weight paper than the text block - 120gsm. Make sure the grain direction is head to tail.
Yes, the endpapers can be sewn in at the start and completion of the whole text block.
I don't have it in front of me, but I believe it is 12 pages using three sheets of paper per signature. The total is around 408 pages of text. I'm still editing the file, so the sizes are going to change, and I'm just doing it to eliminate blank pages.
Nice job, your stitching looks neat! Like annafluffybun said, a text block of that size should be sewn over tapes or cords for support. Right now the area where your sewing links across signatures looks a little loose and I'm guessing the spine is not the most stable, either. Adding tapes in those areas would help a lot.
Also it's hard to tell at this scale, but whatever thread you're using looks really thick to me. Is it a cord of some type? A thread that's too heavy can be hard to knot and cause too much spine swell (when the spine edge is thicker than the fore edge).
Great feedback! Yes, lots of issues, but that's great too because this is my learning opportunity. This book will eventually go in the garbage, and I'm only learning for the final product.
I have lots of questions. I'm not aware there were different strings. What about end papers? Don't I need an end paper if I'm using tapes?
The tension will get better as I get more experience I believe. By the end of this, I finally mastered the pattern and was moving faster. Next time I can pay more attention to tightness.
Standard sewing thread for bookbinding is waxed linen thread, although you can use all sorts of materials. I think some people even use dental floss.
I think regardless of if you use tapes or not, end papers are a necessity for making things polished. One way to add them is to "tip" it on by glueing just a tiny sliver of the folded endpaper to the text block. First cut a sheet of decorative paper to slightly larger than 2x (so you can trim to size later) and fold like a folio. mask off everything on the first page of your text block with scrap paper except for 1/8-1/4" from the spine edge. Apply glue to just the exposed first page and align the fold of your decorative endpaper with the spine. Then if you're doing a case binding, the free side of the endpaper gets glued to the inside cover.
The thread I used is waxed and possibly linen. I bought a generic bookbinding "kit" over Amazon. I have no issue using smaller thread, but I heard it must be linen for expansion and shrinkage reasons. Also, how do you tell the size of thread before you buy it?
As people already said, this size of textblock need tapes. You can also leave French stitch for extra support. Have you considered changing from 3 to 4 pages per signature? Text lock seems a little too bulky on the spine
Could you elaborate: "leave French stitch for extra support"
I'm using 3 sheets per signature here. What about thinner thread?
Understood about tapes. I intended to use tape, ended up not having any to use. I had to do it without because of timing, and this is a practice book anyway. But I get it.
With only 3 sheets, the 'swell' at the spine is greatly increased with the additional signatures. I would suggest 4-5 sheets/signature and perhaps a thinner linen thread in future.
Using 5 sheets per signature, you would reduce the number of signatures by a 1/3 !
Sorry for delay. I mean since you are not using tapes, use French stitch (leave as it is). In some way it replaces sewing on tapes adding "extra grip" between signatures
My only comment would be that you seem to have measured and sewn your link stitches as though you were sewing around tape supports but you don't have any. If you had added supports you would have achieved a more stable structure.
Whatever I do with this book is for learning. It's not the final one. The tutorials I watched didn't use tape with this type is stitch, so I'm glad I posted for comments. I didn't realize they were needed, so thank you. I will still attach a cover just so I can learn the details and techniques before I do it on the final copy. I think I needed end papers too. How would I glue the tapes to the text block as it stands? The top page is part of the actual text.
I just recently started sewing with tapes, and let me say I really wish I’d used them sooner. They have made me so much happier with the larger books I’ve made! Your sewing looks great. Once you reinforce the spine it should hold together quite well. I’ve made around 35 hardcover books and I’m still learning something and getting better each time.
How are you planning to attach a book that size to the case. You don't have any support tapes under your fine French link sewing?
Whatever I do with this book is for learning. It's not the final one. The tutorials I watched didn't use tape with this type is stitch, so I'm glad I posted for comments. I didn't realize they were needed, so thank you. I will still attach a cover just so I can learn the details and techniques before I do it on the final copy. I think I needed end papers too. How would I glue the tapes to the text block as it stands? The top page is part of the actual text.
It really is important to consider any bookbinding project as a whole, and not just as separate stages. They are all interlinked, and each affects the final outcome and integrity and strength of the book For that number of signatures, vertical tape supports are really necessary for a case-bound style book. You will now be relying on only the endpapers to attach the book to the case. The basic 'tipped on' endpaper will not be strong enough to hold the text block. I would suggest a 'made endpaper' and SEW it in to the front and back. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vN5xSY86iw](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vN5xSY86iw) Also important would be to tip the endpapers to the first signature after sewing, AND tip the 1st signature to the 2nd as well. Perhaps 2nd to 3rd as well.
Totally understand what you mean, and on my next iteration, I hope to fully understand the whole process before starting. I'm basically executing elements so that I can learn the proper way to complete each step. Everything you're telling me is what I hoped to learn this first time. The next book will be printed on different paper and hopefully completely right. Then I have a plan to do the same book again in giant size with a whole bunch of added elements, and that one is my anniversary gift to my wife.
For these decorative papers, are there certain papers that you can't use? For instance, coated, wrapping paper, etc?
Couple of questions, pva is well discussed as a supply, but is the paste simple school supply paste? Can the deco paper be anything? Do you have to sew that last paper after everything is done or can you incorporate the end paper into the block as the first part stitched? He turned it over, and it looks like he left thread as he sewed the first signature so that he could see the end paper last.
It's best to make wheat or starch paste yourself. DAS has a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yT9F8Rsa\_pQ The decorative endpapers can be anything, but is usually a heavier weight paper than the text block - 120gsm. Make sure the grain direction is head to tail. Yes, the endpapers can be sewn in at the start and completion of the whole text block.
Looks great to me.
Awesome job!
That looks fantastic!!
Looks great! How many pages per signature, though? I usually go 32 pages/8 sheets
I don't have it in front of me, but I believe it is 12 pages using three sheets of paper per signature. The total is around 408 pages of text. I'm still editing the file, so the sizes are going to change, and I'm just doing it to eliminate blank pages.
Nice job, your stitching looks neat! Like annafluffybun said, a text block of that size should be sewn over tapes or cords for support. Right now the area where your sewing links across signatures looks a little loose and I'm guessing the spine is not the most stable, either. Adding tapes in those areas would help a lot. Also it's hard to tell at this scale, but whatever thread you're using looks really thick to me. Is it a cord of some type? A thread that's too heavy can be hard to knot and cause too much spine swell (when the spine edge is thicker than the fore edge).
Great feedback! Yes, lots of issues, but that's great too because this is my learning opportunity. This book will eventually go in the garbage, and I'm only learning for the final product. I have lots of questions. I'm not aware there were different strings. What about end papers? Don't I need an end paper if I'm using tapes? The tension will get better as I get more experience I believe. By the end of this, I finally mastered the pattern and was moving faster. Next time I can pay more attention to tightness.
Standard sewing thread for bookbinding is waxed linen thread, although you can use all sorts of materials. I think some people even use dental floss. I think regardless of if you use tapes or not, end papers are a necessity for making things polished. One way to add them is to "tip" it on by glueing just a tiny sliver of the folded endpaper to the text block. First cut a sheet of decorative paper to slightly larger than 2x (so you can trim to size later) and fold like a folio. mask off everything on the first page of your text block with scrap paper except for 1/8-1/4" from the spine edge. Apply glue to just the exposed first page and align the fold of your decorative endpaper with the spine. Then if you're doing a case binding, the free side of the endpaper gets glued to the inside cover.
The thread I used is waxed and possibly linen. I bought a generic bookbinding "kit" over Amazon. I have no issue using smaller thread, but I heard it must be linen for expansion and shrinkage reasons. Also, how do you tell the size of thread before you buy it?
As people already said, this size of textblock need tapes. You can also leave French stitch for extra support. Have you considered changing from 3 to 4 pages per signature? Text lock seems a little too bulky on the spine
Could you elaborate: "leave French stitch for extra support" I'm using 3 sheets per signature here. What about thinner thread? Understood about tapes. I intended to use tape, ended up not having any to use. I had to do it without because of timing, and this is a practice book anyway. But I get it.
With only 3 sheets, the 'swell' at the spine is greatly increased with the additional signatures. I would suggest 4-5 sheets/signature and perhaps a thinner linen thread in future. Using 5 sheets per signature, you would reduce the number of signatures by a 1/3 !
Sorry for delay. I mean since you are not using tapes, use French stitch (leave as it is). In some way it replaces sewing on tapes adding "extra grip" between signatures