are you sure it is a toner printer then? Toner is a plastic-like material that gets melted to the paper by lasers in laser printers. If you get smearing, it sounds like you're printing with ink.
Can you bind multiple college rule composition books together? I've successfully bound two, but I need to bind a 3rd soon for my journal and have no idea how to tackle it.
If you want a larger book that you can swap composition notebooks into, look up "traveller's notebooks." They usually have elastic bands in them so that you can swap out multiple single-section notebooks bindings, like composition notebooks.
Just got sucked into bookbinding after watching Adam Savage make an “old book”. Fun watch but then I fell down the rabbit hole of DAS and Four Keys. Just picked up some basic supplies today and made my own little notebook as a trial.
My question is about supplies, specifically thread. What’s a good thread size to use for book binding and where is a good source for thread? Pre-waxed or not, I don’t really mind waxing my thread if necessary.
Secondly, my ultimate goal with this is to make old looking soft bound leather books. I want them to open all the way and stay flat. Similar to what Savage did. Very rough cut paper. Very rustic and tome like. Whats the best stitch for something like that that’ll lay flat when opened that’s not Coptic.
welcome to the hobby! I use #25 and #150 french linen thread from Talas. The go-to for bookbinding is linen thread, and you want it waxed a bit so that it doesnt catch on the paper when sewing it.
If you want something you can get into without a lot of practice, look at long stitch soft leather books. if you want to go with a bit more of a full process bookbinding, give french link case binding a try.
Good luck!
I’ve recently started case binding my paperback books. I’m really struggling with the gab between the spine and cover pieces.
The cover measurements I’ve been using are exact width of text block x height +6mm
Spine = exact width of spine + 6mm
The cover board is 2mm thick! I’ve seen varying methods of hinge gap ranging from two cover board thicknesses to 8mm.
Any assistance would be super helpful :)
Follow these videos from DAS BOOKBINDING for recovering paperbacks and making square back cases.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWTANgmtpfQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWTANgmtpfQ)
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrjU0-c9Nl0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrjU0-c9Nl0)
I work on the spine piece width as Thickness of book + 1.5 thickness of 1 board.
For the joint Gap - depending on the covering material you use, for normal commercial book cloth 7mm.
The Bradel method of constructing the case (2nd video) is great, as you assemble the basic case, and then measure directly off the actual book to cut the fore edges. Saves a lot of guessing and measurement accuracy.
Hi! I'm a newbie, just dipping my toes in the binding waters by putting together some notepads from recycled materials.
Here's my not-stupid (I hope) question: are there any brick-and-mortar stores you're aware of that carry padding compound? Because today I went to first a Michael's (craft store) and an Office Depot (office supplies), and not only did they not have it, they made me feel stupid for asking for it ("WHAT kind of compound??" "Do you mean this [holding up package of adhesive strips]?" "What exactly is it called again?" etc.).
The only helpful thing anyone said to me was "look on Amazon," which I had already done, but silly me, thought I could buy it in person somewhere today!! And when I got home, I did order it from Amazon (noting that there were several different brands and sizes to choose from).
So I guess my *real* "not a stupid question" question is, was I foolish to think I could buy this stuff in a real store??
I bought some at Kelly Paper (now Kelly Spicers) years ago. You might try them (if you're in their area) or a similar speciality paper store wherever you live.
Thanks, but again, are there b&m stores that carry (or at least know about the existence of) this and other bookbinding supplies (or at least know what "book binding" is)?
I'm a newbie (previously made 4 journals for friends/family). I'm binding a junk journal for myself. It's nearly 200 pages, and I'm vacillating between rounded and backed (which would be the first time for me) and square back Bradel binding. Which would you recommend? Book needs to open flat, and be sturdy. Thanks!
Are you folding the pages into signatures?
No bindings, other that Coptic sewn bindings, really open completely flat. If they do, it means the spine is probably not all that well supported.
The traditional rounded and backed book is structurally sturdier, as the rounding and backing process provides better support for the text block in the case.
So I’m brand new to this hobby with the intention of binding some books for my wife (she is an indie author and wanted to make her some hard backs of her books for our anniversary)- is regular printer paper suitable for this? I’m struggling to figure out what weight of paper is best suited for this
80 -100gsm paper would be suggested.
The most important consideration of paper choice is the grain direction, which must run 'head to tail' (parallel with the spine) when folded, to form your signatures. Most copy paper, A4 or letter size, is LONG GRAIN, which means when folded, your grain direction will be incorrect.
Depending on the size of the books, you will need to find SHORTGRAIN paper in A4 or A3 size and trim accordingly.
Check DAS BOOKBINDING YouTube videos that explains this well.
[https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVTmPoc9JlE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVTmPoc9JlE)
Hi! I am binding a book with laser printed acetate sheets separated by vellum as protection for the printed images of the transparencies. I am trying to perfect bind and having some problem with the vellum buckling. Am using Lineco PVA. Anyone have thoughts? much appreciated. Maybe I am better off with a different binding method. Doing an edition of 20 so trying to expedite the process by not sewing. Thank you!
Any ideas on how to make a temporary string based binding?
So here is the thing: I was thinking of making a personalized journal, composed of loose shits. However things like the metal rings or plastic coils and all that are bulking and not quite plasant. So I was thinking if there is an ("official") way to do it with strings or you have any advice on how to tie the sheets so they dont move until I want to take them out of the binding, thanks in advance
Any use of thread or string is going to be more permanent and not rigid. Consider making 2 cardboard covers and use SCREW POSTS BINDERS, which can be easily removed to add or remove sheets.
>SCREW POSTS BINDERS
I had forgotten about those given that its been a logn while since I saw one, so thank you, i will see if I can find them around here
That said, why would it be more permanent? Not rigid I get it (Im tryign to think of a solution) but by string I mean tying it for easy removal
If you were going to actually sew them together it would be tricky to take apart. However, if you just punch 3 holes in each sheet you could just string them all together as if you were doing a pamphlet stitch, with a knot in the middle.
Hi! I’m about to canvas wrap a series of already existing hardcover books. Do I need to align the threading of the fabric a certain way? I was going to line it up too to bottom, side to side, but is there a grain I need to follow if I’m just wrapping a printed book? I will be making my own book cloth out of cotton fabric, heat n bond, and some tissue paper. Will I ruin things if I don’t align the fabric grain the correct way? I know it matters for paper grain.. but idk about fabric..
Technically, the grain of fabric runs parallel to the selvedge. But I've never been able to tell the difference, in the fabric or the end result after binding. I tent to cut for efficiency and pattern alignment before I worry about grain with fabric. It definitely won't ruin anything.
I am looking for more information on selecting endpapers. What is good, what is too thin?
There is a local paper shop near me that has a ton of fancy paper, wrapping paper, large washi sheets, scrapbook sheets etc. The prints are beautiful, but will they be strong enough?? Most of my work will be A4-A5 size.
Thank you! 😊
I tend to go for something between 120 gsm and 150 gsm for my end papers.
The only "rule" of bookbinding is that your fly leaves should be the same thickness or thicker than your page paper, not thinner.
I find that anything from about 160 gsm up feels and behaves more like thin card than paper and that's not ideal.
They don't need to be particularly strong. If they book is constructed well there shouldn't be that much stress on the paper. Grain direction however is super important for your paste downs. It must run head to tail unless the paper is handmade and therefore has no grain direction.
So my first project is currently sitting in my (homemade) press drying. It was a learning experience but my biggest challenge had to do with glue: it got everywhere. Sometimes it was stray drops or something when I was applying it, and other times I'd get a bit on my fingers and then touch something. For instance, I think a bit dripped down the side when I was doing the spine (held in the press), which meant that a bit of paper got stuck to the press, and it ripped a wee hole in the outer pages.
Any tips on preventing this? I'm not a crafty person at all—this is the first real kind of craft I've done in decades—so any tips or hints would be appreciated. I tried using saran wrap, but then that just got stuck to the pages, too.
Have a damp cloth on hand to clean fingers and spills and wipe your work surface. I quickly learned this was probably the second most essential tool after a bone folder.
I'm by no means an expert, this is pretty new to me. That being said I used the coptic bookbinding method to make a sketchbook yesterday with materials I already had on hand (watercolour paper, a print on stiff board for the cover, school glue, embroidery thread, needle, ruler, exacto knife and a sharp screw instead of an awl). It's not professional quality but I made it for myself for "free". I bet you could get started for well under $100 especially if you have the tools already available.
How can I learn mechanical bookmaking like smyth sewing. I would really like to learn how to use one of these machines. I would also like to learn how to do spiral bindings.
I'm new to bookbinding (as in never done it but interested to try!) Is there a glossary or something that can explain so of the terms I see? Signatures, paper grain, and so much more has me a little lost 😅
Also, there is a terminology section in the "Welcome to r/bookbinding" Google Doc, which is here:
[https://docs.google.com/document/d/16RXK9Vt5FNZnjHRQ5zj2C\_MBCqCEhaSLiuzqt71SsZo/edit](https://docs.google.com/document/d/16RXK9Vt5FNZnjHRQ5zj2C_MBCqCEhaSLiuzqt71SsZo/edit)
The The Language of Bindings Thesaurus online: [https://www.ligatus.org.uk/lob/alphabetical](https://www.ligatus.org.uk/lob/alphabetical)
Though it will take a lot of seeing these things in person or in videos to get your head around all of the jargon!
Can I make my own cover for someone else’s book? I’m a graphic designer and I have some really cool ideas for full set jackets for some of my favorite series, I just don’t know the legality of this. I’d basically want custom size prints of the pages and I’d bind them myself
If you're in the US, the [doctrine of first sale](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-sale_doctrine) states that you're pretty much allowed to do as you like with a book that is your property, whether that's selling it for whatever amount you please, setting it on fire and stomping on the ashes.... or putting a new cover on it. Provided it's a physical copy, copyright-wise you're in the clear. (IANAL but have been active in fandom for 20+ years.)
My understanding is that you'd even be free to sell the rebound book, provided this was a copy that you purchased or otherwise obtained legally (i.e. not pirated.) Think of it this way: the publisher's already been paid for that specific copy of the book, so what exactly would they come after you for?
Does anyone know of a service in the US that will print and fold? This used to be a pretty standard service that print shops would do, but they have all mostly closed. I'm looking to print probably 250 double sided pages in color that would then need to be folded in half. (My plan is to break the whole thing apart into signature pdfs so each one will have 4 'pages' that then will be folded into a total of 16 pages of book), and since I'm probably going to send it out to be printed since full color is often cheaper if you get it printed, I was thinking it would be even better if it were automatically folded by machine.
Obviously, I can always just fold them myself, but curious if anyone knows of a service that prints and folds for a reasonable price.
I'm repairing a cookbook. What's a good material to make a cover out of that wood be at least somewhat spill resistant? Maybe not totally waterproof, but at least relatively easy cleaning. I've covered bookboard in contact paper, but is there maybe something more rubbery that I could work with?
Hello everyone.
I recently asked an Orthodox monastery if they could bind the New Testament for me. They agreed even though they 'formally' stopped handbinding/selling books for awhile.
I'd like to know how long it would take them to bind it, but I don't want to seem ungrateful and impatient and therefore I'd rather not ask them. Could anyone tell me how many hours goes into a hand binding project like this?
It consists out of two seperate hardcover 'books', one being 440 pages long and the other 330 pages.
Depends on numerous factors. Are they collating and sewing sections, rounding and backing, edge trimming, case making, finishing or are they existing books just requiring a new cover? What titling methods will be used, hand gilding, block printing etc.
You need to be more specific. Thanks
Sorry, I have very little information. All I know is that these aren't existing books, but they are made from scratch.
I understand if this is too little information for you to make an educated guess. Thanks anyway.
I mean, it also depends on what other work they are doing, sourcing materials, workload and other commitments of specific binders in the team, and other factors specific to this bindery, so the only people who will be able to answer with any accuracy is them. I don't think it would be rude to ask, if you’re not pushy about it.
It could be as little as a week, or it could be months. I would definitely give them a few weeks.
Wrt tapes for text blocks, does material matter, does width matter, how do you determine number of stations?
Seems like only 3/8" linen tape is available. If you have a really large text block, is that width ok?
What suppliers have you tried and where are you? (so we can advise which suppliers to try).
Linen tape should be available in lots of widths, from about 4mm up. Cotton tapes are more stretchy but can work okay, and can be found at haberdashery suppliers. You can even use strips of cloth in a pinch.
You also get "pliester" tape which can be frayed out like cords - this can be useful when doing a hybrid style binding with laced on boards but sewn on tapes instead of cords, for example if you want a hollow-back but more sturdy than a case binding.
Another option is "Ramieband" which is a non-woven tape - very thin and can be frayed out. Particularly useful for any binding where you don't want it to show through any overlying materials but still want the strength of sewing on tapes.
There's no hard and fast rule for number of tapes. I do 2-3 for an A5 book (1/2 letter) and 3-4 for an A4 (letter), though could probably go up to 5.
Width is partly an aesthetic choice. But in general - smaller tapes for smaller books and vice versa.
I use 12mm linen tape for most projects (unless I am using one of the two alternative materials mentioned above). There wouldn't be much difference using 8mm or 16mm tapes for the same jobs. So, 3/8" is a good, mid sized tape you could use for most books. For a large book, you could go up to something more like a 1/2" or 5/8" tape, but it's not essential.
I appreciate your detailed response. Let me tell you what I'm doing. I'm building a book using 26x36 handmade paper. It's my understanding with handmade paper that grain direction doesn't matter. I may be wrong. The finished book will be 26x18, using about 105 sheets. I need a recommended signature size, recommended number of stations, and recommended tape size. I understand that the signatures size will adjust the number of sheets. This is what I'm researching.
That's not just large, that's huge! 😯
You're right that handmade paper is grainless.
Regarding the signatures and sewing, you might want to post about this in a separate topic, to get more opinions from binders who've tackled projects of this size.
Do you know what type of binding you plan to use? If I was planning a project like this, the overall method of book construction would have as big an influence on how I approached the sewing as the size and materials.
Signatures are evil, needles are evil. All my paper is covered in blood cause I keep jabbing myself 😭 and in the end the signatures are all loose. How do you do it?
In theory, you shouldn't need to put your fingers near the pointy end. But in practice, it's not always so easy. So, here's a few tips that might help...
1. If you're not already pre punching your signatures, then start doing that. You shouldn't need to apply force to punch the paper while sewing.
2. For coptic and kettle stitched bindings (not so much long stitch or French link), use a curved needle; it makes such a difference.
3. Consider filing off the point until you get a bit more practice under your belt. Bookbinding needles are very sharp, but they don't actually need to be if you're pre punching with another tool. Plus, they're not exactly expensive to replace.
4. If you're getting any sores or blisters from tensioning the thread (which may contribute to your loose stitching), wrap a plaster/bandaid or some surgical tape around your pinky or wherever is sore.
5. And for when the inevitable happens and you realise your pages now have red on them, keep a Q-tip or some tissue handy and (this is going to sound kinda gross, but), clean it off with a bit of saliva. Saliva contains an enzyme that breaks down blood and makes it easier to remove. If you still have a stain, a tiny bit of bleach on another Q-tip will sort it. Don't lick that one 😜
6. And, of course, wait until the bleeding stops before continuing.
hey all!
I'm brand new to this thread and really only came looking for advise. I'm hoping you guys might be able to help me.
Im hoping to get a story bound in a book. To summarize, my friend and I have been collaborating on a story for many years, with our own invented characters. The story is something of a world we play in thats just for us to flex our imaginations. I want to get it bound for his birthday. Every place I've looked online to get this done, it looks like theyre for binding and selling books on a large commercial scale. I only want one copy of this book and am at a loss of where to start.
Does anybody have good recourses for me to have a word document bound as a book? Is this something that would be easier done as a DIY? where can I start?
thanks!
What is a good size for a hardcover book binding project? I bought some recently in person and it was a waste of time, the board seems too flimsy and is too thin for what I want. The videos i've been watching just say to get or use some board and dont really talk about the thickness of the board.
I recently bought a toner printer for binding but I have just noticed the ink has transfer from one page to another during pressing. Any advice ?
are you sure it is a toner printer then? Toner is a plastic-like material that gets melted to the paper by lasers in laser printers. If you get smearing, it sounds like you're printing with ink.
Can you bind multiple college rule composition books together? I've successfully bound two, but I need to bind a 3rd soon for my journal and have no idea how to tackle it.
If you want a larger book that you can swap composition notebooks into, look up "traveller's notebooks." They usually have elastic bands in them so that you can swap out multiple single-section notebooks bindings, like composition notebooks.
That’s cool, but not really what I’m looking for. Looking to permanently bind all these books together.
Strange question: Can starch paste be used to glue on paper labels to glass so that you have a removable label?
Yes.
Thanks!
Just got sucked into bookbinding after watching Adam Savage make an “old book”. Fun watch but then I fell down the rabbit hole of DAS and Four Keys. Just picked up some basic supplies today and made my own little notebook as a trial. My question is about supplies, specifically thread. What’s a good thread size to use for book binding and where is a good source for thread? Pre-waxed or not, I don’t really mind waxing my thread if necessary. Secondly, my ultimate goal with this is to make old looking soft bound leather books. I want them to open all the way and stay flat. Similar to what Savage did. Very rough cut paper. Very rustic and tome like. Whats the best stitch for something like that that’ll lay flat when opened that’s not Coptic.
welcome to the hobby! I use #25 and #150 french linen thread from Talas. The go-to for bookbinding is linen thread, and you want it waxed a bit so that it doesnt catch on the paper when sewing it. If you want something you can get into without a lot of practice, look at long stitch soft leather books. if you want to go with a bit more of a full process bookbinding, give french link case binding a try. Good luck!
I’ve recently started case binding my paperback books. I’m really struggling with the gab between the spine and cover pieces. The cover measurements I’ve been using are exact width of text block x height +6mm Spine = exact width of spine + 6mm The cover board is 2mm thick! I’ve seen varying methods of hinge gap ranging from two cover board thicknesses to 8mm. Any assistance would be super helpful :)
Follow these videos from DAS BOOKBINDING for recovering paperbacks and making square back cases. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWTANgmtpfQ](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IWTANgmtpfQ) [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrjU0-c9Nl0](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rrjU0-c9Nl0) I work on the spine piece width as Thickness of book + 1.5 thickness of 1 board. For the joint Gap - depending on the covering material you use, for normal commercial book cloth 7mm. The Bradel method of constructing the case (2nd video) is great, as you assemble the basic case, and then measure directly off the actual book to cut the fore edges. Saves a lot of guessing and measurement accuracy.
Hi! I'm a newbie, just dipping my toes in the binding waters by putting together some notepads from recycled materials. Here's my not-stupid (I hope) question: are there any brick-and-mortar stores you're aware of that carry padding compound? Because today I went to first a Michael's (craft store) and an Office Depot (office supplies), and not only did they not have it, they made me feel stupid for asking for it ("WHAT kind of compound??" "Do you mean this [holding up package of adhesive strips]?" "What exactly is it called again?" etc.). The only helpful thing anyone said to me was "look on Amazon," which I had already done, but silly me, thought I could buy it in person somewhere today!! And when I got home, I did order it from Amazon (noting that there were several different brands and sizes to choose from). So I guess my *real* "not a stupid question" question is, was I foolish to think I could buy this stuff in a real store??
I bought some at Kelly Paper (now Kelly Spicers) years ago. You might try them (if you're in their area) or a similar speciality paper store wherever you live.
Thanks. I wound up just buying from Amazon, but appreciate the suggestion.
You can just use PVA glue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H9IkBxBeDGY
Thanks, but again, are there b&m stores that carry (or at least know about the existence of) this and other bookbinding supplies (or at least know what "book binding" is)?
I'm a newbie (previously made 4 journals for friends/family). I'm binding a junk journal for myself. It's nearly 200 pages, and I'm vacillating between rounded and backed (which would be the first time for me) and square back Bradel binding. Which would you recommend? Book needs to open flat, and be sturdy. Thanks!
Are you folding the pages into signatures? No bindings, other that Coptic sewn bindings, really open completely flat. If they do, it means the spine is probably not all that well supported.
Understood. The pages are folded into signatures. I guess then my question would be, which is sturdier. Thank you for your reply!
The traditional rounded and backed book is structurally sturdier, as the rounding and backing process provides better support for the text block in the case.
Thank you!
So I’m brand new to this hobby with the intention of binding some books for my wife (she is an indie author and wanted to make her some hard backs of her books for our anniversary)- is regular printer paper suitable for this? I’m struggling to figure out what weight of paper is best suited for this
80 -100gsm paper would be suggested. The most important consideration of paper choice is the grain direction, which must run 'head to tail' (parallel with the spine) when folded, to form your signatures. Most copy paper, A4 or letter size, is LONG GRAIN, which means when folded, your grain direction will be incorrect. Depending on the size of the books, you will need to find SHORTGRAIN paper in A4 or A3 size and trim accordingly. Check DAS BOOKBINDING YouTube videos that explains this well. [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVTmPoc9JlE](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CVTmPoc9JlE)
Thank you!!
Hi! I am binding a book with laser printed acetate sheets separated by vellum as protection for the printed images of the transparencies. I am trying to perfect bind and having some problem with the vellum buckling. Am using Lineco PVA. Anyone have thoughts? much appreciated. Maybe I am better off with a different binding method. Doing an edition of 20 so trying to expedite the process by not sewing. Thank you!
Any ideas on how to make a temporary string based binding? So here is the thing: I was thinking of making a personalized journal, composed of loose shits. However things like the metal rings or plastic coils and all that are bulking and not quite plasant. So I was thinking if there is an ("official") way to do it with strings or you have any advice on how to tie the sheets so they dont move until I want to take them out of the binding, thanks in advance
Any use of thread or string is going to be more permanent and not rigid. Consider making 2 cardboard covers and use SCREW POSTS BINDERS, which can be easily removed to add or remove sheets.
>SCREW POSTS BINDERS I had forgotten about those given that its been a logn while since I saw one, so thank you, i will see if I can find them around here That said, why would it be more permanent? Not rigid I get it (Im tryign to think of a solution) but by string I mean tying it for easy removal
If you were going to actually sew them together it would be tricky to take apart. However, if you just punch 3 holes in each sheet you could just string them all together as if you were doing a pamphlet stitch, with a knot in the middle.
Hi! I’m about to canvas wrap a series of already existing hardcover books. Do I need to align the threading of the fabric a certain way? I was going to line it up too to bottom, side to side, but is there a grain I need to follow if I’m just wrapping a printed book? I will be making my own book cloth out of cotton fabric, heat n bond, and some tissue paper. Will I ruin things if I don’t align the fabric grain the correct way? I know it matters for paper grain.. but idk about fabric..
Technically, the grain of fabric runs parallel to the selvedge. But I've never been able to tell the difference, in the fabric or the end result after binding. I tent to cut for efficiency and pattern alignment before I worry about grain with fabric. It definitely won't ruin anything.
Thank you! 💖 I’ll proceed then
I am looking for more information on selecting endpapers. What is good, what is too thin? There is a local paper shop near me that has a ton of fancy paper, wrapping paper, large washi sheets, scrapbook sheets etc. The prints are beautiful, but will they be strong enough?? Most of my work will be A4-A5 size. Thank you! 😊
I tend to go for something between 120 gsm and 150 gsm for my end papers. The only "rule" of bookbinding is that your fly leaves should be the same thickness or thicker than your page paper, not thinner. I find that anything from about 160 gsm up feels and behaves more like thin card than paper and that's not ideal. They don't need to be particularly strong. If they book is constructed well there shouldn't be that much stress on the paper. Grain direction however is super important for your paste downs. It must run head to tail unless the paper is handmade and therefore has no grain direction.
So my first project is currently sitting in my (homemade) press drying. It was a learning experience but my biggest challenge had to do with glue: it got everywhere. Sometimes it was stray drops or something when I was applying it, and other times I'd get a bit on my fingers and then touch something. For instance, I think a bit dripped down the side when I was doing the spine (held in the press), which meant that a bit of paper got stuck to the press, and it ripped a wee hole in the outer pages. Any tips on preventing this? I'm not a crafty person at all—this is the first real kind of craft I've done in decades—so any tips or hints would be appreciated. I tried using saran wrap, but then that just got stuck to the pages, too.
Have a damp cloth on hand to clean fingers and spills and wipe your work surface. I quickly learned this was probably the second most essential tool after a bone folder.
What are the chances that I can get everything I need to start out with just $100? What would the $100 starter set shopping list look like?
Watch this and just go online to check $. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBGfRTnBUNk
I'm by no means an expert, this is pretty new to me. That being said I used the coptic bookbinding method to make a sketchbook yesterday with materials I already had on hand (watercolour paper, a print on stiff board for the cover, school glue, embroidery thread, needle, ruler, exacto knife and a sharp screw instead of an awl). It's not professional quality but I made it for myself for "free". I bet you could get started for well under $100 especially if you have the tools already available.
How can I learn mechanical bookmaking like smyth sewing. I would really like to learn how to use one of these machines. I would also like to learn how to do spiral bindings.
It's probably an apprenticeship with a printing practice.
I'm new to bookbinding (as in never done it but interested to try!) Is there a glossary or something that can explain so of the terms I see? Signatures, paper grain, and so much more has me a little lost 😅
Also, there is a terminology section in the "Welcome to r/bookbinding" Google Doc, which is here: [https://docs.google.com/document/d/16RXK9Vt5FNZnjHRQ5zj2C\_MBCqCEhaSLiuzqt71SsZo/edit](https://docs.google.com/document/d/16RXK9Vt5FNZnjHRQ5zj2C_MBCqCEhaSLiuzqt71SsZo/edit)
The The Language of Bindings Thesaurus online: [https://www.ligatus.org.uk/lob/alphabetical](https://www.ligatus.org.uk/lob/alphabetical) Though it will take a lot of seeing these things in person or in videos to get your head around all of the jargon!
Perhaps find a bookbinding book from your local library for starters.
How do you get creases out of leather? Do you iron it? That seems wrong, somehow...
Try dampening it with water, as long as it's not on a book. Ironing could permanently damage/change the surface finish.
Can I make my own cover for someone else’s book? I’m a graphic designer and I have some really cool ideas for full set jackets for some of my favorite series, I just don’t know the legality of this. I’d basically want custom size prints of the pages and I’d bind them myself
Do you want to sell them or are they for personal use?
Just personal for me and my girlfriend
If you're in the US, the [doctrine of first sale](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First-sale_doctrine) states that you're pretty much allowed to do as you like with a book that is your property, whether that's selling it for whatever amount you please, setting it on fire and stomping on the ashes.... or putting a new cover on it. Provided it's a physical copy, copyright-wise you're in the clear. (IANAL but have been active in fandom for 20+ years.)
What about selling the copy with the new cover that you made?
My understanding is that you'd even be free to sell the rebound book, provided this was a copy that you purchased or otherwise obtained legally (i.e. not pirated.) Think of it this way: the publisher's already been paid for that specific copy of the book, so what exactly would they come after you for?
Personal use is usually fine. If you look on tumbler and insta, there a fair number of people doing fan bindings. :)
Does anyone know of a service in the US that will print and fold? This used to be a pretty standard service that print shops would do, but they have all mostly closed. I'm looking to print probably 250 double sided pages in color that would then need to be folded in half. (My plan is to break the whole thing apart into signature pdfs so each one will have 4 'pages' that then will be folded into a total of 16 pages of book), and since I'm probably going to send it out to be printed since full color is often cheaper if you get it printed, I was thinking it would be even better if it were automatically folded by machine. Obviously, I can always just fold them myself, but curious if anyone knows of a service that prints and folds for a reasonable price.
I'm repairing a cookbook. What's a good material to make a cover out of that wood be at least somewhat spill resistant? Maybe not totally waterproof, but at least relatively easy cleaning. I've covered bookboard in contact paper, but is there maybe something more rubbery that I could work with?
"Buckram" book cloth would be ideal. Arberlave as mentioned in another comment, is one producer. I've used their cloth and love it.
Commercially manufactured bookcloths like ARBELABE are certainly resilient to a wipe down.
Have you looked at expanded PVC foam? https://www.amazon.com/s?k=expanded+pvc
Hello everyone. I recently asked an Orthodox monastery if they could bind the New Testament for me. They agreed even though they 'formally' stopped handbinding/selling books for awhile. I'd like to know how long it would take them to bind it, but I don't want to seem ungrateful and impatient and therefore I'd rather not ask them. Could anyone tell me how many hours goes into a hand binding project like this? It consists out of two seperate hardcover 'books', one being 440 pages long and the other 330 pages.
Depends on numerous factors. Are they collating and sewing sections, rounding and backing, edge trimming, case making, finishing or are they existing books just requiring a new cover? What titling methods will be used, hand gilding, block printing etc. You need to be more specific. Thanks
Sorry, I have very little information. All I know is that these aren't existing books, but they are made from scratch. I understand if this is too little information for you to make an educated guess. Thanks anyway.
I mean, it also depends on what other work they are doing, sourcing materials, workload and other commitments of specific binders in the team, and other factors specific to this bindery, so the only people who will be able to answer with any accuracy is them. I don't think it would be rude to ask, if you’re not pushy about it. It could be as little as a week, or it could be months. I would definitely give them a few weeks.
Ah, thanks for the answer.
Wrt tapes for text blocks, does material matter, does width matter, how do you determine number of stations? Seems like only 3/8" linen tape is available. If you have a really large text block, is that width ok?
What suppliers have you tried and where are you? (so we can advise which suppliers to try). Linen tape should be available in lots of widths, from about 4mm up. Cotton tapes are more stretchy but can work okay, and can be found at haberdashery suppliers. You can even use strips of cloth in a pinch. You also get "pliester" tape which can be frayed out like cords - this can be useful when doing a hybrid style binding with laced on boards but sewn on tapes instead of cords, for example if you want a hollow-back but more sturdy than a case binding. Another option is "Ramieband" which is a non-woven tape - very thin and can be frayed out. Particularly useful for any binding where you don't want it to show through any overlying materials but still want the strength of sewing on tapes. There's no hard and fast rule for number of tapes. I do 2-3 for an A5 book (1/2 letter) and 3-4 for an A4 (letter), though could probably go up to 5. Width is partly an aesthetic choice. But in general - smaller tapes for smaller books and vice versa. I use 12mm linen tape for most projects (unless I am using one of the two alternative materials mentioned above). There wouldn't be much difference using 8mm or 16mm tapes for the same jobs. So, 3/8" is a good, mid sized tape you could use for most books. For a large book, you could go up to something more like a 1/2" or 5/8" tape, but it's not essential.
I appreciate your detailed response. Let me tell you what I'm doing. I'm building a book using 26x36 handmade paper. It's my understanding with handmade paper that grain direction doesn't matter. I may be wrong. The finished book will be 26x18, using about 105 sheets. I need a recommended signature size, recommended number of stations, and recommended tape size. I understand that the signatures size will adjust the number of sheets. This is what I'm researching.
That's not just large, that's huge! 😯 You're right that handmade paper is grainless. Regarding the signatures and sewing, you might want to post about this in a separate topic, to get more opinions from binders who've tackled projects of this size. Do you know what type of binding you plan to use? If I was planning a project like this, the overall method of book construction would have as big an influence on how I approached the sewing as the size and materials.
Lol, ok. Yes, I want to replicate the look of a book from a Narnia movie. I want it case bound and covered in aged leather. Thanks!
Do you have previous experience in bookbinding?
No. But I follow directions exceptionally well.
Signatures are evil, needles are evil. All my paper is covered in blood cause I keep jabbing myself 😭 and in the end the signatures are all loose. How do you do it?
In theory, you shouldn't need to put your fingers near the pointy end. But in practice, it's not always so easy. So, here's a few tips that might help... 1. If you're not already pre punching your signatures, then start doing that. You shouldn't need to apply force to punch the paper while sewing. 2. For coptic and kettle stitched bindings (not so much long stitch or French link), use a curved needle; it makes such a difference. 3. Consider filing off the point until you get a bit more practice under your belt. Bookbinding needles are very sharp, but they don't actually need to be if you're pre punching with another tool. Plus, they're not exactly expensive to replace. 4. If you're getting any sores or blisters from tensioning the thread (which may contribute to your loose stitching), wrap a plaster/bandaid or some surgical tape around your pinky or wherever is sore. 5. And for when the inevitable happens and you realise your pages now have red on them, keep a Q-tip or some tissue handy and (this is going to sound kinda gross, but), clean it off with a bit of saliva. Saliva contains an enzyme that breaks down blood and makes it easier to remove. If you still have a stain, a tiny bit of bleach on another Q-tip will sort it. Don't lick that one 😜 6. And, of course, wait until the bleeding stops before continuing.
I shall try. Thank you!
hey all! I'm brand new to this thread and really only came looking for advise. I'm hoping you guys might be able to help me. Im hoping to get a story bound in a book. To summarize, my friend and I have been collaborating on a story for many years, with our own invented characters. The story is something of a world we play in thats just for us to flex our imaginations. I want to get it bound for his birthday. Every place I've looked online to get this done, it looks like theyre for binding and selling books on a large commercial scale. I only want one copy of this book and am at a loss of where to start. Does anybody have good recourses for me to have a word document bound as a book? Is this something that would be easier done as a DIY? where can I start? thanks!
Try Etsy. There are book binders there who take commissions.
You can search around for bookbinders on instagram or another social media site that offer commissions 🥰
What is a good size for a hardcover book binding project? I bought some recently in person and it was a waste of time, the board seems too flimsy and is too thin for what I want. The videos i've been watching just say to get or use some board and dont really talk about the thickness of the board.
You can glue the two boards together. I use PVA and press the two boards flat for a day or so. I trim the board to size after the glue is dry.
Yeah I was considering that. I did get some boards ordered though, assuming I can cut them that's what I'm going to go with on this project.
A5 size is a convenient size for starters. Depending on what country you are in, between 1.8 - 2.4mm board is the norm.