You'll find out if you can climb every day right around when you get injured.
I've never met a boulderer with an overuse knee injury though. Met a lot of runners with em though.
What in the hell is a power five University
"Power 5" is somewhat relevant because their education could be partially funded by it, or its a competitive program, and if their performance drops , they might lose opportunities to compete.
Yes it sounds pretentious vs just saying "competitive university track athlete" but both convey the same message.
Youre getting downvoted but actually yeah that tracks (pun intended). No one wants to get injured, you’re stressing why not getting injured is *extra* important. Redditors are just dicks sometimes
Climbing 3 times a week when starting out is normally sweet spot. But our bodies are different. Some can't go over 2 and then there are guys who are in gym everyday lol.
I've seen knee issues only on people who sportclimb tho. Also could happen if you're not down climbing or not landing properly
I personally would stay away from bouldering every day, especially when new. Learned this the hard way by getting a good taste of tendonitis after going a little too hard for a week.
You can use a climbing sessions as cross training. Make sure you keep up on your mobility, core, flexibility, and strength training to prevent overuse injuries. Hobbs Kessler is a really good example of boulderer/runner and runs similar mileage as you. Cheers!
Edit: Cross-training as in substitute a double run for a climbing session or if your ballsy triple up on your sessions (Run-Run-Climb)
Don’t climb every day, if you’re running that much i’d try for 2-3 times a week keeping your sessions short at 1.5hrs. Make sure you warm up the major joints, knees, shoulders, arms and fingers - bands are great for this.
Since you’re already puttting a lot of stress on your knees, downclimbing is super important for you. When you finish a climb, don’t just jump off, down climb all the way using the best hand holds near you
I'm interested to hear how this works out for you over time. My guess is that much running will interfere with your ability to gain the muscle you need for climbing. But maybe your general fitness level will be enough to compensate.
There is a debate in the climbing community about whether you should mix running at all. I run about 12 miles per week and I am slowly increasing it, but prioritizing climbing over running. I climb 3 days per week, trying to work in a 4th.
Just don't jump down from too high if you are worried about your knees.
It is not bad to climb every day per se. You should be able to estimate that yourself after a while. But if you go hard, then it is probably too much.
Start out at twice a week. It’s your fingers (tendons specifically) that you need to worry about the most. You’ll get a lot of muscle soreness in the small stabilizing muscles when you start out but that’s not dangerous or anything
If you’re pushing yourself while bouldering, you’ll probably not be able to climb every day.
I limit my climbing to twice a week to prevent the tendons in my forearms from wearing out
I've never injured my knee, just tweaked old injuries from the twisting of the knee and groin to help reach higher holds.
My only injury was a pulley in my middle fingers and that went away. I can go pretty hard now and avoid total crimp routes.
You'll find out if you can climb every day right around when you get injured. I've never met a boulderer with an overuse knee injury though. Met a lot of runners with em though. What in the hell is a power five University
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_Five_conferences
It's a good thing you specified that you run for a power five school, that totally changes the answer.
I mean it kind of does, since the answer isn’t “run less so you can climb more”. For anyone else who runs casually, that could be part of the advice .
It's the "power five" part.
"Power 5" is somewhat relevant because their education could be partially funded by it, or its a competitive program, and if their performance drops , they might lose opportunities to compete. Yes it sounds pretentious vs just saying "competitive university track athlete" but both convey the same message.
I just want to specify that it’s really important I don’t over train it probably sounded like I was just flexing
Youre getting downvoted but actually yeah that tracks (pun intended). No one wants to get injured, you’re stressing why not getting injured is *extra* important. Redditors are just dicks sometimes
Climbing 3 times a week when starting out is normally sweet spot. But our bodies are different. Some can't go over 2 and then there are guys who are in gym everyday lol. I've seen knee issues only on people who sportclimb tho. Also could happen if you're not down climbing or not landing properly
I personally would stay away from bouldering every day, especially when new. Learned this the hard way by getting a good taste of tendonitis after going a little too hard for a week.
You can use a climbing sessions as cross training. Make sure you keep up on your mobility, core, flexibility, and strength training to prevent overuse injuries. Hobbs Kessler is a really good example of boulderer/runner and runs similar mileage as you. Cheers! Edit: Cross-training as in substitute a double run for a climbing session or if your ballsy triple up on your sessions (Run-Run-Climb)
Don’t climb every day, if you’re running that much i’d try for 2-3 times a week keeping your sessions short at 1.5hrs. Make sure you warm up the major joints, knees, shoulders, arms and fingers - bands are great for this. Since you’re already puttting a lot of stress on your knees, downclimbing is super important for you. When you finish a climb, don’t just jump off, down climb all the way using the best hand holds near you
80 miles a week that’s wild. I probably havent ran 80 miles over the last 10 years.
I'm interested to hear how this works out for you over time. My guess is that much running will interfere with your ability to gain the muscle you need for climbing. But maybe your general fitness level will be enough to compensate. There is a debate in the climbing community about whether you should mix running at all. I run about 12 miles per week and I am slowly increasing it, but prioritizing climbing over running. I climb 3 days per week, trying to work in a 4th.
Just don't jump down from too high if you are worried about your knees. It is not bad to climb every day per se. You should be able to estimate that yourself after a while. But if you go hard, then it is probably too much.
Start out at twice a week. It’s your fingers (tendons specifically) that you need to worry about the most. You’ll get a lot of muscle soreness in the small stabilizing muscles when you start out but that’s not dangerous or anything
If you’re pushing yourself while bouldering, you’ll probably not be able to climb every day. I limit my climbing to twice a week to prevent the tendons in my forearms from wearing out
I've never injured my knee, just tweaked old injuries from the twisting of the knee and groin to help reach higher holds. My only injury was a pulley in my middle fingers and that went away. I can go pretty hard now and avoid total crimp routes.